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For most of the year
South Africa's
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00:00:05,672 --> 00:00:10,477
western border with the sea
is severe and unforgiving.
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00:00:13,180 --> 00:00:18,452
It's a narrow and harsh belt of
coastline called the Sandveld.
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00:00:21,688 --> 00:00:24,458
But for the creatures
that live in the ocean,
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00:00:24,458 --> 00:00:27,594
it's an entirely
different story
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00:00:32,199 --> 00:00:33,767
A rich current
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00:00:33,767 --> 00:00:37,070
provides generously for every
inhabitant of the sea.
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00:00:39,573 --> 00:00:41,208
For those that thrive
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00:00:41,208 --> 00:00:44,144
in the cold temperatures
and stormy swells,
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00:00:44,144 --> 00:00:48,348
this underwater domain
is a sanctuary.
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00:00:48,348 --> 00:00:52,753
The Sandveld
is a land of contrasts,
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00:00:52,753 --> 00:00:58,458
And every creature has adapted
to endure its volatile habitat.
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00:01:33,327 --> 00:01:36,229
South Africa's western frontier
with the sea
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00:01:36,229 --> 00:01:39,299
is a harsh and arid terrain.
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00:01:42,502 --> 00:01:45,472
A narrow strip of land
shouldering the ocean,
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00:01:45,472 --> 00:01:50,544
the Sandveld is as unyielding
as it is beautiful.
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00:01:56,483 --> 00:02:02,456
The sands that line the coast
are coarse and drained.
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00:02:02,456 --> 00:02:06,093
They provide only
for hardy shrubs
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00:02:06,093 --> 00:02:08,528
and their resilient residents.
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00:02:10,731 --> 00:02:14,634
The seasons fluctuate
between extremes.
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00:02:16,103 --> 00:02:18,138
The inhabitants of the Sandveld
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00:02:18,138 --> 00:02:21,375
have to withstand
the relentless winds,
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00:02:21,375 --> 00:02:23,477
The salt-laden mists -
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00:02:25,712 --> 00:02:28,382
And the scorching sun.
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00:02:31,618 --> 00:02:34,187
But for a small portion
of the year
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00:02:34,187 --> 00:02:36,289
after the winter rains finish,
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00:02:36,289 --> 00:02:39,659
the August spring
brings new life -
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00:02:42,429 --> 00:02:46,666
and the landscape
becomes a wonderland.
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00:02:50,570 --> 00:02:54,608
While they patiently await
the arrival of spring,
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00:02:54,608 --> 00:02:57,177
the animals
on this stretch of earth
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00:02:57,177 --> 00:03:00,614
stubbornly endure their
unforgiving home.
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00:03:03,550 --> 00:03:07,320
The ocean paints
a very different picture.
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00:03:09,089 --> 00:03:11,124
The rocky shores
that abruptly sever
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00:03:11,124 --> 00:03:15,462
the Sandveld's link to the ocean
are rich and nurturing.
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00:03:18,432 --> 00:03:22,736
The sea is as plentiful
as the land is scarce.
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00:03:28,208 --> 00:03:32,379
While the terrestrial creatures
fight the severity of the land,
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00:03:32,379 --> 00:03:34,548
those that live in the sea
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00:03:34,548 --> 00:03:40,153
group in their masses to enjoy
the generosity of the ocean.
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00:03:43,657 --> 00:03:46,359
The neighbors
of these two bordering realms
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00:03:46,359 --> 00:03:49,796
are as dissimilar
as their habitats.
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00:03:52,099 --> 00:03:54,101
And every animal here
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00:03:54,101 --> 00:03:59,139
must endure the seasons and cope
with the area in which it lives.
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00:04:19,693 --> 00:04:22,696
This stretch of beach
in the north of the Sandveld
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00:04:22,696 --> 00:04:26,266
is home to the Cape fur seal -
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00:04:31,238 --> 00:04:34,207
and it's their permanent base.
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00:04:35,675 --> 00:04:38,445
Seals are ocean-based mammals,
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00:04:38,445 --> 00:04:41,381
but they have strong ties
to the land.
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00:04:47,687 --> 00:04:51,458
They spend most of their time
in the sea,
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00:04:55,128 --> 00:04:57,397
Yet they still breathe air
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00:04:57,397 --> 00:05:01,568
and they have to come on to land
to rest and to give birth.
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00:05:05,639 --> 00:05:08,575
Seals are a curious
crossover species
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00:05:08,575 --> 00:05:12,979
caught somewhere between
two vastly different worlds -
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00:05:14,314 --> 00:05:16,716
part land and part ocean.
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00:05:19,219 --> 00:05:22,255
They're considerably more
cumbersome when moving around
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00:05:22,255 --> 00:05:25,825
on solid ground.
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00:05:25,825 --> 00:05:31,665
This is where they are
most vulnerable to predation,
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00:05:31,665 --> 00:05:35,569
but also where they need to come
to breed.
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00:05:41,374 --> 00:05:44,144
Because of this,
large groups of seals
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00:05:44,144 --> 00:05:49,049
only occur where terrestrial
predators are limited.
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00:05:53,620 --> 00:05:57,557
Optimum sites
are few and far between.
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00:06:01,061 --> 00:06:03,697
This beach at Kleinzee
in the Sandveld
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00:06:03,697 --> 00:06:07,634
holds the largest on-land
aggregation of Cape fur seals
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00:06:07,634 --> 00:06:09,135
in the world.
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00:06:15,709 --> 00:06:20,580
With such large numbers, prime
space is a valuable commodity -
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00:06:24,150 --> 00:06:28,521
One that only the dominant bulls
can procure.
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00:06:34,361 --> 00:06:36,663
A successful bull territory
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00:06:36,663 --> 00:06:40,667
can contain up to 30 females
and their offspring.
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00:06:46,640 --> 00:06:50,477
The pups will nurse
for 10 months, until spring.
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00:06:54,180 --> 00:06:56,683
Then the big bulls will emerge
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00:06:56,683 --> 00:07:00,387
to fight
for the best mating sites.
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00:07:09,562 --> 00:07:11,464
Forcing the youngsters out
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00:07:11,464 --> 00:07:15,035
to face the challenges
of the ocean by themselves.
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00:07:24,477 --> 00:07:26,179
The arrival of spring
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00:07:26,179 --> 00:07:30,050
signals the beginning
of their independence.
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00:07:36,222 --> 00:07:39,125
Because of the double-nature
of their existence,
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00:07:39,125 --> 00:07:41,494
seals can choose
whether to face the dangers
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00:07:41,494 --> 00:07:43,563
of the Atlantic ocean,
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00:07:45,598 --> 00:07:48,468
or the severity of the land.
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00:07:52,272 --> 00:07:55,508
Not every animal
has this luxury.
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00:07:58,378 --> 00:08:01,214
While spring means exile
for the baby seals,
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00:08:01,214 --> 00:08:03,583
the Sandveld's
landlocked inhabitants
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00:08:03,583 --> 00:08:07,087
desperately await its arrival.
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00:08:11,458 --> 00:08:15,295
Imprisoned by barriers of
mountains and rivers on one side
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00:08:15,295 --> 00:08:18,298
and the cold Atlantic
on the other,
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00:08:21,668 --> 00:08:25,438
the animals that live here
have to endure the hot summer
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00:08:25,438 --> 00:08:27,207
and wet winter,
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00:08:27,207 --> 00:08:32,145
waiting for the brief
window of life in spring.
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00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:39,419
During the summer the Sandveld
is hostile and scarce.
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00:08:39,419 --> 00:08:44,257
Temperatures reach
90 degrees Fahrenheit.
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00:08:44,257 --> 00:08:47,327
And only half an inch
of rainfall
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00:08:47,327 --> 00:08:50,096
reaches the land per month.
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00:08:51,564 --> 00:08:55,235
Little is provided
for those who live here.
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00:08:55,835 --> 00:08:57,337
And death
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00:08:57,337 --> 00:08:59,406
is a constant visitor.
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00:09:01,374 --> 00:09:03,309
Within this landscape,
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00:09:03,309 --> 00:09:06,679
the smallest of creatures
have made their home.
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00:09:13,787 --> 00:09:18,024
The Angulate tortoise is bound
to wander the Sandveld,
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00:09:18,024 --> 00:09:23,062
laboriously moving through the
terrain in search of shelter.
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00:09:28,501 --> 00:09:31,237
They are hardy and robust,
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00:09:31,237 --> 00:09:34,441
able to survive
in difficult conditions.
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00:09:36,309 --> 00:09:39,546
And there are a number of tricks
that help them endure
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00:09:39,546 --> 00:09:42,015
their dry habitat.
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00:09:43,516 --> 00:09:47,587
Their skin is hard
and impermeable.
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00:09:47,587 --> 00:09:52,325
This greatly reduces the amount
of water that they lose.
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00:09:53,827 --> 00:09:55,695
The dry Sandveld wind
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00:09:55,695 --> 00:09:59,299
consistently withers
all that it encounters,
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00:10:01,234 --> 00:10:03,503
and so the Angulate tortoise
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00:10:03,503 --> 00:10:07,207
spends as little time away
from the shelter of the shrubs
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00:10:07,207 --> 00:10:09,108
as it can.
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00:10:15,448 --> 00:10:17,417
The key to their survival
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00:10:17,417 --> 00:10:19,385
is their shy nature.
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00:10:40,807 --> 00:10:42,709
But there are
other reptiles here
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00:10:42,709 --> 00:10:44,711
that have adapted
to take advantage
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00:10:44,711 --> 00:10:48,081
of the abundant exposure
of the open lands.
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00:10:57,724 --> 00:11:01,060
Where the hot summer sun
is a persecution to others,
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00:11:01,060 --> 00:11:03,396
it is a source
of life and mobility
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00:11:03,396 --> 00:11:05,632
for the lizards of the Sandveld.
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00:11:14,107 --> 00:11:17,810
They are cold blooded,
so they need to bask in the sun
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00:11:17,810 --> 00:11:20,780
to regulate
their body temperature.
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00:11:27,587 --> 00:11:31,791
But this can be as much a burden
as it is a blessing
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00:11:31,791 --> 00:11:35,061
especially in the Sandveld.
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00:11:40,800 --> 00:11:44,604
Relying on the sun's heat means
this Cape girdled lizard
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00:11:44,604 --> 00:11:48,408
has to leave itself exposed
in plain view.
124
00:11:59,686 --> 00:12:02,522
The boulders that the lizard
depends on for basking
125
00:12:02,522 --> 00:12:06,659
are the ideal hunting ground
for a Rock kestrel.
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00:12:18,204 --> 00:12:21,174
But these rocks are also
the main defense
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00:12:21,174 --> 00:12:23,242
of the Sandveld's reptiles.
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00:12:24,410 --> 00:12:27,480
Their solace is temporary;
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00:12:27,480 --> 00:12:32,752
soon they must leave again
to find warmth and food.
130
00:12:32,752 --> 00:12:36,656
And so they rely on both
the shelter of the rock crevices
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00:12:36,656 --> 00:12:39,726
and on the open exposure
of the surface.
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00:12:41,694 --> 00:12:45,765
A curious double bind
that sees these small reptiles
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00:12:45,765 --> 00:12:49,702
constantly maneuvering around
the boulders of the Sandveld.
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00:12:55,608 --> 00:12:57,510
One species
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00:12:57,510 --> 00:13:01,214
seems to have solved this
dilemma in an interesting way.
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00:13:10,757 --> 00:13:12,492
Armadillo girdled lizards
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00:13:12,492 --> 00:13:16,195
have a heavily armored
outer tail and body,
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00:13:17,764 --> 00:13:21,367
but their soft underbellies
are vulnerable.
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00:13:26,572 --> 00:13:31,844
And they have dealt with this
in an intriguing fashion.
140
00:13:31,844 --> 00:13:34,714
By biting their tails,
the lizards ensure
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00:13:34,714 --> 00:13:38,651
that they don't leave their
vulnerable sections exposed.
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00:13:40,720 --> 00:13:43,389
And they have another tactic
to protect themselves
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00:13:43,389 --> 00:13:48,261
from the predators
of the Sandveld.
144
00:13:48,261 --> 00:13:51,664
Armadillo girdled lizards
aggregate in large groups.
145
00:13:56,169 --> 00:13:59,205
They have sentries
manning multiple posts,
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00:14:02,775 --> 00:14:05,745
facing all directions.
147
00:14:08,114 --> 00:14:11,317
If a threat comes from the sky
or the ground,
148
00:14:11,317 --> 00:14:15,321
it will be seen by one
of the many lizards on watch.
149
00:14:19,292 --> 00:14:23,329
They wait underneath the
protection of overhanging rocks,
150
00:14:23,329 --> 00:14:25,398
only leaving to bask
151
00:14:25,398 --> 00:14:27,033
or to eat.
152
00:14:33,506 --> 00:14:38,578
Within such large groups,
there are hierarchies.
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00:14:43,149 --> 00:14:45,618
And when food is limited,
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00:14:45,618 --> 00:14:49,455
only the most dominant
get to enjoy it.
155
00:14:51,390 --> 00:14:55,762
Socializing among lizards
is not a common phenomenon,
156
00:14:55,762 --> 00:14:59,165
but suitable cover is limited.
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00:14:59,165 --> 00:15:03,569
So Armadillo girdled lizards
join together to find food,
158
00:15:03,569 --> 00:15:05,505
shelter from the elements
159
00:15:05,505 --> 00:15:08,207
and evade predators.
160
00:15:16,549 --> 00:15:20,720
Refuge is not easy to come
across in the Sandveld.
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00:15:23,422 --> 00:15:28,161
Only the hardiest vegetation can
survive this difficult terrain.
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00:15:31,097 --> 00:15:35,535
This is Namaqualand sand fynbos;
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00:15:41,440 --> 00:15:46,045
It occupies 270,000 acres
of the Sandveld.
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00:15:50,116 --> 00:15:53,519
It's the driest
of all fynbos types.
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00:15:53,519 --> 00:15:55,354
In some areas
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00:15:55,354 --> 00:15:57,657
it manages to live within
a meager average rainfall
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00:15:57,657 --> 00:16:02,094
of less than 4 inches per year.
168
00:16:08,734 --> 00:16:11,237
So like all that live here,
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00:16:11,237 --> 00:16:16,209
it has ingenious ways to survive
the harshness of its habitat.
170
00:16:21,080 --> 00:16:24,217
As the Benguela
current surges along the coast
171
00:16:24,217 --> 00:16:28,554
it draws frigid,
deep water to the surface.
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00:16:30,456 --> 00:16:34,660
When the prevailing winds blow
onshore from farther out to sea,
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00:16:34,660 --> 00:16:39,365
they carry warm air
laden with moisture.
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00:16:41,601 --> 00:16:45,271
The warm moisture collides
with the cold surface water,
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00:16:45,271 --> 00:16:48,140
giving rise to thick fog.
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00:16:50,142 --> 00:16:53,679
Here the ocean feeds the land.
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00:16:57,583 --> 00:17:02,455
Mists and winds are present for
at least 120 nights of the year,
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00:17:07,526 --> 00:17:11,030
And they are a gift
to the resident plants.
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00:17:17,303 --> 00:17:21,307
It's estimated that the moisture
delivered by the Sandveld fog
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00:17:21,307 --> 00:17:25,711
can be up to three times as much
as the amount of its rainfall.
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00:17:30,483 --> 00:17:33,252
This is where
the scarcity of the land
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00:17:33,252 --> 00:17:36,756
and the richness
of the ocean meet.
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00:17:39,158 --> 00:17:41,560
Because of this,
the plants have developed
184
00:17:41,560 --> 00:17:45,164
to make the most of their main
source of nourishment.
185
00:17:50,636 --> 00:17:53,272
The roots of many species
in the habitat
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00:17:53,272 --> 00:17:59,278
have numerous fine divisions
just below the earth.
187
00:17:59,278 --> 00:18:04,016
These help maximize the surface
area of the water intake.
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00:18:10,256 --> 00:18:12,258
Within these conditions,
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00:18:12,258 --> 00:18:16,028
an intriguing plant flourishes
among the fynbos.
190
00:18:20,366 --> 00:18:23,536
The Euphorbia caput-madusae.
191
00:18:26,706 --> 00:18:29,775
So named
because of its long tentacles
192
00:18:29,775 --> 00:18:33,179
emerging like the serpents on
the head of the mythological
193
00:18:33,179 --> 00:18:35,081
Greek figure.
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00:18:37,583 --> 00:18:40,152
It survives
the unremitting habitat
195
00:18:40,152 --> 00:18:43,122
by remaining partly underground;
196
00:18:45,491 --> 00:18:50,663
leaving only
its branches exposed.
197
00:18:50,663 --> 00:18:54,133
And there's a creature that has
an unexpected relationship
198
00:18:54,133 --> 00:18:57,003
with these serpentine spires.
199
00:19:07,446 --> 00:19:09,615
The Rough-scaled girdled lizard
200
00:19:09,615 --> 00:19:13,285
is one of the few members
of its kind that doesn't hide
201
00:19:13,285 --> 00:19:15,021
between the rocks.
202
00:19:16,756 --> 00:19:18,691
Its head and body
203
00:19:18,691 --> 00:19:22,962
are not flattened like many
of the other girdled lizards;
204
00:19:26,098 --> 00:19:30,202
this reflects its preference for
living away from boulders.
205
00:19:33,606 --> 00:19:35,541
It has another way to shelter
206
00:19:35,541 --> 00:19:38,377
from the Sandveld's
elements and predators.
207
00:19:41,280 --> 00:19:43,182
The plant protects the reptiles
208
00:19:43,182 --> 00:19:47,253
in the way that rocks protect
the other girdled lizards.
209
00:19:51,490 --> 00:19:53,626
When under threat
from a predator,
210
00:19:53,626 --> 00:19:57,563
it can lose itself
within the labyrinthine stems.
211
00:20:00,533 --> 00:20:05,404
And it provides
another important service.
212
00:20:05,404 --> 00:20:08,340
Because invertebrates
also shelter here;
213
00:20:08,340 --> 00:20:13,779
the lizards do not need to move
far to get their food.
214
00:20:13,779 --> 00:20:18,651
They're gifted a complimentary
room service for their tenure.
215
00:20:20,786 --> 00:20:22,755
But there aren't many euphorbias
216
00:20:22,755 --> 00:20:26,492
that can provide
adequate protection.
217
00:20:26,492 --> 00:20:29,228
So competition
for the ones that do
218
00:20:29,228 --> 00:20:30,529
is fierce.
219
00:20:35,367 --> 00:20:38,537
There's a hierarchy
within the plant's residents -
220
00:20:38,537 --> 00:20:40,806
those that are lower down
are condemned
221
00:20:40,806 --> 00:20:43,542
to the more exposed spires.
222
00:20:49,415 --> 00:20:52,284
The stronger lizards have their
choice of the sections
223
00:20:52,284 --> 00:20:55,054
that are
harder for predators to access.
224
00:21:05,464 --> 00:21:10,736
This is a necessary compromise,
produced by the harsh habitat.
225
00:21:13,405 --> 00:21:17,343
The severity has caused
an otherwise solitary lizard
226
00:21:17,343 --> 00:21:19,578
to become communal.
227
00:21:31,857 --> 00:21:34,326
Until the winter rains arrive
228
00:21:34,326 --> 00:21:38,063
the Sandveld relinquishes little
for its residents.
229
00:21:44,470 --> 00:21:47,773
Springbok thrive in aridity.
230
00:21:51,410 --> 00:21:55,381
They're at home grazing amongst
the scant dunes.
231
00:21:57,249 --> 00:22:00,252
By being able to digest
young tender grass
232
00:22:00,252 --> 00:22:03,355
and a variety
of shrubs and succulents,
233
00:22:03,355 --> 00:22:06,192
they're well provided for.
234
00:22:08,427 --> 00:22:12,097
But their greatest advantage
for surviving these lands
235
00:22:12,097 --> 00:22:16,368
is their ability
to go without fresh water.
236
00:22:18,137 --> 00:22:19,638
And this is the trick
237
00:22:19,638 --> 00:22:22,474
that also allows
the Sandveld's largest resident
238
00:22:22,474 --> 00:22:24,777
to see the summer through.
239
00:22:29,815 --> 00:22:33,285
Cape eland can go
for long periods
240
00:22:33,285 --> 00:22:35,454
without needing to drink.
241
00:22:39,525 --> 00:22:44,463
This nomadic family constantly
moves through the Sandveld.
242
00:22:50,436 --> 00:22:54,673
Their broad habitat tolerance
and extremely varied diet
243
00:22:54,673 --> 00:22:57,042
allow them to cope.
244
00:23:00,279 --> 00:23:04,116
But in order to survive, there
needs to be enough moisture
245
00:23:04,116 --> 00:23:07,720
in the plants that they eat.
246
00:23:16,295 --> 00:23:18,130
Until the winter rains,
247
00:23:18,130 --> 00:23:22,434
this family must survive
off the little that's on offer.
248
00:23:33,646 --> 00:23:38,284
While those on land
endure the summer heat,
249
00:23:38,284 --> 00:23:41,754
the ocean continues
to burst with life.
250
00:23:46,625 --> 00:23:49,495
As the Benguela current
moves up the coast,
251
00:23:49,495 --> 00:23:52,398
the earth's rotation
causes the surface water
252
00:23:52,398 --> 00:23:55,434
to deflect away from the shore.
253
00:24:00,339 --> 00:24:02,741
Coupled with
the prevailing winds,
254
00:24:02,741 --> 00:24:06,278
this draws up cold,
nutrient rich water
255
00:24:06,278 --> 00:24:10,582
from as deep as 1000 feet below.
256
00:24:19,291 --> 00:24:21,193
As the nutrient-rich water
257
00:24:21,193 --> 00:24:25,431
is pulled shallow enough to
collide with the sun's rays,
258
00:24:25,431 --> 00:24:29,468
an explosion of life occurs.
259
00:24:34,640 --> 00:24:39,478
Forests of free-floating algae
come into bloom.
260
00:24:43,115 --> 00:24:46,418
Attracting
large schools of fish.
261
00:24:47,486 --> 00:24:49,121
These in turn
262
00:24:49,121 --> 00:24:51,290
bring the carnivores.
263
00:24:53,125 --> 00:24:58,130
Among them, hundreds and
thousands of Cape fur seals
264
00:24:58,130 --> 00:25:02,301
and sea birds
that arrive to feed.
265
00:25:02,301 --> 00:25:04,169
Pieces of drift kelp
266
00:25:04,169 --> 00:25:09,608
soak up the water's nourishment
and wash to shore.
267
00:25:09,608 --> 00:25:12,478
As the winds whip
and batter the sea,
268
00:25:12,478 --> 00:25:18,584
they whisk up a thick froth
of organic matter.
269
00:25:18,584 --> 00:25:23,222
These water-borne clouds
are rich in biological material
270
00:25:23,222 --> 00:25:26,258
that feeds the intertidal zones.
271
00:25:28,761 --> 00:25:33,065
A constant influx of nutrients
infiltrates the ocean border
272
00:25:33,065 --> 00:25:35,634
in many different forms.
273
00:25:47,413 --> 00:25:51,350
This draws some unexpected
inland visitors out.
274
00:25:55,154 --> 00:25:56,822
Flamingos
275
00:25:56,822 --> 00:26:00,626
use their bill to filter through
the surface of the water -
276
00:26:00,626 --> 00:26:04,196
this optimizes the nutrients
they can extract.
277
00:26:07,332 --> 00:26:11,236
Adapted to function best across
the still waters of a lake,
278
00:26:11,236 --> 00:26:14,573
this technique is
considerably harder to practice
279
00:26:14,573 --> 00:26:17,009
on a moving wave.
280
00:26:20,813 --> 00:26:22,714
But they persevere
281
00:26:22,714 --> 00:26:26,485
in order to enjoy the banquet
that the coastline offers.
282
00:26:28,153 --> 00:26:31,523
The intertidal zones
are the portal
283
00:26:31,523 --> 00:26:34,526
between the Sandveld
and the sea,
284
00:26:36,361 --> 00:26:39,631
and they are
coursing with nutrients.
285
00:26:41,834 --> 00:26:46,104
Water constantly moves
in and out of the rock pools
286
00:26:46,104 --> 00:26:48,574
with the tide.
287
00:26:50,542 --> 00:26:54,246
Flooded twice a day,
the animals that exist here
288
00:26:54,246 --> 00:26:57,483
must be able
to live in two worlds.
289
00:27:01,553 --> 00:27:06,558
For a portion of their time they
are completely submerged -
290
00:27:06,558 --> 00:27:10,696
for the rest
they are entirely exposed.
291
00:27:27,045 --> 00:27:29,681
There are a number of species
that thrive
292
00:27:29,681 --> 00:27:31,683
in this restless world,
293
00:27:33,452 --> 00:27:35,754
But the most successful one
294
00:27:35,754 --> 00:27:38,290
is not even from here.
295
00:27:40,692 --> 00:27:45,764
The Mediterranean mussel arrived
in the seventies when its larvae
296
00:27:45,764 --> 00:27:49,101
were transported in the ballast
water of visiting tankers
297
00:27:49,101 --> 00:27:50,302
from Europe.
298
00:27:52,104 --> 00:27:53,839
They have all but completely
299
00:27:53,839 --> 00:27:57,209
replaced the indigenous
intertidal invertebrates,
300
00:27:57,209 --> 00:28:02,281
due to their speedier growth
and reproduction rates.
301
00:28:04,583 --> 00:28:08,353
But their success has played
a part in the recuperation
302
00:28:08,353 --> 00:28:11,456
of another Sandveld resident.
303
00:28:13,458 --> 00:28:15,727
African black oystercatchers
304
00:28:15,727 --> 00:28:20,465
are some of South Africa's most
endangered coastal birds,
305
00:28:20,465 --> 00:28:23,969
but their numbers
are on the rise.
306
00:28:29,174 --> 00:28:31,577
They've entirely adjusted
their diet
307
00:28:31,577 --> 00:28:34,813
to include
these superabundant aliens,
308
00:28:34,813 --> 00:28:39,017
and this has raised their
reproductive success.
309
00:28:43,055 --> 00:28:46,224
To feed on the mussels,
oystercatchers must wait
310
00:28:46,224 --> 00:28:51,063
until the mussel itself
starts feeding.
311
00:28:51,063 --> 00:28:56,401
As the mollusks feed they
filter water into their bodies -
312
00:28:56,401 --> 00:28:58,170
to do this
313
00:28:58,170 --> 00:29:01,073
they must loosen their otherwise
tightly clamped valves.
314
00:29:02,307 --> 00:29:04,509
Here the bird takes its chance,
315
00:29:04,509 --> 00:29:08,714
striking quickly
to remove the tasty treat.
316
00:29:15,554 --> 00:29:19,658
Mediterranean mussels
now make up 90 percent
317
00:29:19,658 --> 00:29:23,128
of this endangered bird's diet.
318
00:29:26,098 --> 00:29:29,034
This has lead
to a 30 percent increase
319
00:29:29,034 --> 00:29:35,340
in oystercatcher populations
over the last 30 years.
320
00:29:39,578 --> 00:29:44,416
The Benguela current is the
primary motor behind life here;
321
00:29:44,416 --> 00:29:50,355
it drives the scores of aquatic
animals that live in the sea,
322
00:29:50,355 --> 00:29:54,626
whilst also providing moisture
in the form of mist and fog
323
00:29:54,626 --> 00:29:59,564
for those that endure
the Sandveld landscape.
324
00:30:07,639 --> 00:30:09,641
Winter brings rain;
325
00:30:27,292 --> 00:30:30,729
The parched land floods.
326
00:30:39,271 --> 00:30:43,108
The amount of rain relinquished
increases to over 6 times
327
00:30:43,108 --> 00:30:45,110
the dry season average.
328
00:31:03,195 --> 00:31:07,232
And as the clouds clear
and the spring sun comes out,
329
00:31:07,232 --> 00:31:11,069
the coast is injected
with new life.
330
00:31:15,373 --> 00:31:20,078
The changing seasons bring
transformation and relief.
331
00:31:22,614 --> 00:31:27,586
And this prompts the arrival of
another, very peculiar resident
332
00:31:27,586 --> 00:31:30,222
of the Sandveld.
333
00:31:32,557 --> 00:31:37,195
The Mountain white spot
caterpillar.
334
00:31:37,195 --> 00:31:40,198
Not much is known
about these insects.
335
00:31:41,867 --> 00:31:43,702
As the rains ease,
336
00:31:43,702 --> 00:31:47,806
they emerge to devour the leaves
of the Gonna bush.
337
00:31:49,541 --> 00:31:51,676
These are their host plant
338
00:31:51,676 --> 00:31:55,781
and they grow in abundance in
the West Coast National Park.
339
00:31:59,551 --> 00:32:02,687
When the males eventually grow
into adult moths,
340
00:32:02,687 --> 00:32:06,391
they will be handsome specimens
with long wings
341
00:32:06,391 --> 00:32:10,262
but with imperfect mouths,
so they cannot feed.
342
00:32:12,531 --> 00:32:14,166
And the females
343
00:32:14,166 --> 00:32:16,468
are just as unusual.
344
00:32:17,803 --> 00:32:20,572
She will remain wingless,
345
00:32:20,572 --> 00:32:23,508
her eyes, head and antennae
346
00:32:23,508 --> 00:32:25,443
will never emerge
347
00:32:25,443 --> 00:32:28,180
and her legs will stay
far too small
348
00:32:28,180 --> 00:32:31,516
for any practical purposes.
349
00:32:31,516 --> 00:32:34,820
As a result,
she never leaves her cocoon
350
00:32:34,820 --> 00:32:41,359
but merely waits for a male to
seek her out and mate with her.
351
00:32:41,359 --> 00:32:45,597
She will lay about 100 eggs
inside her cocoon
352
00:32:45,597 --> 00:32:48,700
and then die.
353
00:32:48,700 --> 00:32:51,837
The eggs will hide out inside of
her shriveled body
354
00:32:51,837 --> 00:32:56,641
for the long, harsh summers
and wet winters.
355
00:32:56,641 --> 00:32:59,611
Then they'll hatch next spring
356
00:32:59,611 --> 00:33:03,715
to consume these leaves
and reproduce again,
357
00:33:03,715 --> 00:33:07,118
and so their cycle continues.
358
00:33:18,563 --> 00:33:21,666
This frantic activity
is one of the first signs
359
00:33:21,666 --> 00:33:25,637
of winter drawing to a close
and spring beginning.
360
00:33:29,674 --> 00:33:34,412
Male cape weavers
begin building their nests.
361
00:33:39,517 --> 00:33:42,587
They're skillfully
and delicately crafted.
362
00:33:50,762 --> 00:33:53,365
The males with the most
appealing decor
363
00:33:53,365 --> 00:33:56,434
will be the most
successful breeders.
364
00:34:05,543 --> 00:34:07,479
Once construction is complete,
365
00:34:07,479 --> 00:34:10,315
they will wait
at the entrance to their homes
366
00:34:10,315 --> 00:34:13,285
and signal
to any passing female,
367
00:34:14,619 --> 00:34:17,489
attempting to lure them in.
368
00:34:21,326 --> 00:34:25,297
They're highly polygamous.
369
00:34:25,297 --> 00:34:30,335
A well-built male territory
can seduce up to seven mates,
370
00:34:30,335 --> 00:34:34,339
if the builder can successfully
entice them inside.
371
00:34:37,309 --> 00:34:41,313
When the time is right,
the female will wait inside here
372
00:34:41,313 --> 00:34:44,049
and incubate her eggs.
373
00:34:45,684 --> 00:34:48,720
But attracting a mate
is harder than it seems -
374
00:34:48,720 --> 00:34:53,558
males must constantly jostle
in the search for partners.
375
00:35:03,335 --> 00:35:06,671
The weavers
aren't the only birds alive
376
00:35:06,671 --> 00:35:09,474
with the preparations of spring.
377
00:35:13,712 --> 00:35:17,482
Waders breed in Siberia
during the summer,
378
00:35:18,717 --> 00:35:21,453
but as the black
Arctic winter approaches
379
00:35:21,453 --> 00:35:24,189
they undertake
a massive migration
380
00:35:24,789 --> 00:35:26,391
that ends here
381
00:35:26,391 --> 00:35:28,460
in time for spring.
382
00:35:35,400 --> 00:35:39,337
Langebaan lagoon inside
the West Coast National Park
383
00:35:39,337 --> 00:35:44,175
hosts 55,000 waders every year.
384
00:35:51,416 --> 00:35:56,221
Their arrival ushers in a time
of plenty for the Sandveld.
385
00:36:00,458 --> 00:36:03,595
They thrive off the large
quantities of invertebrates
386
00:36:03,595 --> 00:36:05,497
inside the lagoon.
387
00:36:08,133 --> 00:36:13,738
Here alone they consume over
300,000 pounds annually.
388
00:36:17,375 --> 00:36:21,246
The waters become a hub
of constant activity.
389
00:36:25,550 --> 00:36:29,487
These migratory birds
have traveled across the globe
390
00:36:29,487 --> 00:36:32,323
to enjoy the Sandveld spring
391
00:36:32,323 --> 00:36:36,394
and all of the food
that the lagoon relinquishes.
392
00:36:52,477 --> 00:36:56,681
The time has come for
the seal pups to face the ocean.
393
00:37:04,689 --> 00:37:08,393
And some seem more prepared
than others.
394
00:37:13,731 --> 00:37:18,636
They must be ready to fend for
themselves in the cold Atlantic.
395
00:37:24,509 --> 00:37:27,078
But this is a challenge
that their bodies
396
00:37:27,078 --> 00:37:28,746
are well equipped for.
397
00:37:33,785 --> 00:37:35,553
Once underwater
398
00:37:35,553 --> 00:37:39,224
the pups
are superb aquatic acrobats.
399
00:37:52,170 --> 00:37:56,608
Their most important sensory
organs are their eyes.
400
00:38:00,278 --> 00:38:02,680
These are lubricated
by the salt water,
401
00:38:02,680 --> 00:38:07,185
allowing them to see better
under the waves than on land.
402
00:38:20,131 --> 00:38:23,668
Their whiskers
are sensitive to all vibrations
403
00:38:23,668 --> 00:38:26,638
and direct them to their prey.
404
00:38:35,280 --> 00:38:38,550
As the Benguela current
continues to provide food
405
00:38:38,550 --> 00:38:42,220
for the schools of pelagic fish
along the rocky shores,
406
00:38:42,220 --> 00:38:45,490
these youngsters have every
opportunity to hunt
407
00:38:45,490 --> 00:38:49,160
and grow into adults.
408
00:38:59,637 --> 00:39:02,240
And by the time they're
5 years old
409
00:39:02,240 --> 00:39:04,475
they'll emerge
on the Sandveld's shores
410
00:39:04,475 --> 00:39:07,579
to start the next generation.
411
00:39:25,563 --> 00:39:28,266
When the winter rains
draw to a close
412
00:39:28,266 --> 00:39:30,802
and spring temperatures
start to rise,
413
00:39:30,802 --> 00:39:34,105
the landscape
completely transforms.
414
00:39:51,422 --> 00:39:55,627
For a brief window from August
to September every year,
415
00:39:55,627 --> 00:39:59,097
the Sandveld comes alive.
416
00:40:14,545 --> 00:40:18,650
Life and color
embroider the landscape.
417
00:40:35,767 --> 00:40:38,236
Flowers bring the insects,
418
00:40:38,236 --> 00:40:41,406
who provide an invaluable
contribution.
419
00:40:46,110 --> 00:40:51,215
Their pollination efforts allow
this floral kingdom to continue.
420
00:40:56,220 --> 00:40:58,890
The insects in turn
421
00:40:58,890 --> 00:41:00,491
bring the birds.
422
00:41:06,364 --> 00:41:11,002
Each year thousands of birds
arrive to feast in the fields.
423
00:41:17,208 --> 00:41:19,410
And for the Sandveld's antelope,
424
00:41:19,410 --> 00:41:21,379
the arrival
of the spring flowers
425
00:41:21,379 --> 00:41:25,616
also signals
a brief period of plenty.
426
00:41:33,825 --> 00:41:38,629
But this brevity is compensated
by its brilliance.
427
00:41:49,307 --> 00:41:51,743
The eland family
has patiently awaited
428
00:41:51,743 --> 00:41:54,145
the spring transformation,
429
00:42:03,788 --> 00:42:09,427
And they're joined by others of
their kind to reap the rewards.
430
00:42:16,100 --> 00:42:19,237
The flowers
retain much rainwater
431
00:42:19,237 --> 00:42:21,406
and are a welcome snack.
432
00:42:25,543 --> 00:42:29,147
Bontebok will spend
more than half of their day
433
00:42:29,147 --> 00:42:31,082
grazing the flowers.
434
00:42:35,586 --> 00:42:39,557
The Sandveld is the only place
in the world where Bontebok
435
00:42:39,557 --> 00:42:41,492
occur naturally.
436
00:42:43,294 --> 00:42:47,365
And so they're adapted
to eat a large variety of plants
437
00:42:47,365 --> 00:42:49,734
in this floral biome.
438
00:42:51,536 --> 00:42:54,472
During the long, dry summer
439
00:42:54,472 --> 00:42:56,307
Cape mountain zebra
440
00:42:56,307 --> 00:42:59,310
were forced to leave their
preferred coastal grasses
441
00:42:59,310 --> 00:43:03,381
and move to shrubs and leaves
as the land provided less.
442
00:43:06,551 --> 00:43:11,155
But now they flood back
to the open pastures.
443
00:43:22,400 --> 00:43:27,205
The land provides generously for
all who have patiently endured
444
00:43:27,205 --> 00:43:30,007
the long months of drought.
445
00:43:57,869 --> 00:44:02,340
The Sandveld spring
is a time of respite.
446
00:44:05,510 --> 00:44:07,478
The landscape,
447
00:44:07,478 --> 00:44:11,182
which for the majority of the
year is scant and unyielding,
448
00:44:11,182 --> 00:44:14,585
unfolds into a carpet of color
449
00:44:14,585 --> 00:44:17,522
and vitality.
450
00:44:19,790 --> 00:44:21,626
This is a welcome reward
451
00:44:21,626 --> 00:44:24,595
for all who have endured
the scorching summers
452
00:44:24,595 --> 00:44:27,398
and harsh winters.
453
00:44:29,634 --> 00:44:34,639
But the ocean is the true
backbone of all who live here.
454
00:44:36,607 --> 00:44:39,810
When little rain is provided
for the landlocked residents,
455
00:44:39,810 --> 00:44:43,180
it gives moisture
in the form of fog.
456
00:44:48,419 --> 00:44:50,821
And for those
that live in the sea,
457
00:44:50,821 --> 00:44:52,623
an abundance of resources
458
00:44:52,623 --> 00:44:56,460
ensure that it's always
teeming with activity.
459
00:44:59,597 --> 00:45:02,700
The Sandveld exists
as a delicate interplay
460
00:45:02,700 --> 00:45:05,336
between land and ocean.
461
00:45:09,540 --> 00:45:13,444
And this interrelationship is
something that every resident
462
00:45:13,444 --> 00:45:15,746
from its smallest plants
463
00:45:15,746 --> 00:45:19,283
Quirkiest reptiles
464
00:45:19,283 --> 00:45:21,819
And most charismatic mammals,
465
00:45:21,819 --> 00:45:25,156
have all adapted
to take advantage of.
466
00:45:27,625 --> 00:45:33,798
To live here is to live within
two different worlds
467
00:45:33,798 --> 00:45:37,668
And the result is a habitat
full of both the delicate
468
00:45:37,668 --> 00:45:39,437
and the dauntless...
469
00:45:41,739 --> 00:45:44,508
This is the Sandveld,
470
00:45:44,508 --> 00:45:47,511
the land of contrasts.
471
00:45:50,514 --> 00:46:00,491
โชโช
472
00:46:00,491 --> 00:46:05,463
โชโช
473
00:46:05,463 --> 00:46:14,472
โชโช
37587
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