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There are still parts of our
planet...
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..yet to be explored.
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WATER DRIPPING
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OXYGEN HISSING
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Descending!
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These are remote and
unforgiving places.
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I'm in.
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And the journey to reach them...
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We're in very real danger of
getting trapped here.
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..will push me
and a team of explorers...
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Ah, ah! Uh...
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..to the limit.
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STEVE: It's really tight.
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HE GURGLES AND SCREAMS
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The reward?
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Aw, amazing!
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Breathtaking new discoveries.
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UNDER WATER: The thought that we're
the first people
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ever to see them
is almost beyond belief.
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This time...
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OK, you might want to have to
power through these
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before they close.
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..we're in the Arctic.
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I don't think there's anywhere
else on Earth
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where you feel quite so vulnerable.
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Navigating treacherous sea ice
to kayak up the largest fjord
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in the world.
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You just got to keep paddling.
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We see how the warmest
winter on record
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is affecting everything
that lives here.
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Look at that!
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And come face-to-face...
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It's smelt us. It's lifting its
head up, sniffing the air.
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..with the Arctic's top predator.
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Hah! Hah!
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Hah!
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Ah, he looks like he's coming back.
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HELICOPTER WHIRRING
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STEVE OVER WHIRRING: Greenland
is a place of superlatives.
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It's the world's largest island.
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The least populated
country on Earth.
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There is no icecap bigger than
the Greenland one,
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outside of Antarctica,
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and way up inside the Arctic Circle.
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This place is what
adventures are made of.
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Greenland is the northernmost
country on the planet.
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ICE CRACKLING
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In winter, it's connected
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to the North Pole by sea ice
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and temperatures
can drop as low as
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60 degrees below zero.
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I've come to the remote east coast,
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and I'm starting my expedition here,
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at the Inuit town
of Ittoqqortoormiit.
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DOG BARKS
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Home to fewer than 400 people,
this is officially
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the most remote settlement
in the western world.
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And this is just the start
of our journey.
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Ittoqqortoormiit's nearest
neighbours are 300km away.
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And right now, at the start
of the summer,
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the sun doesn't set
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for two months of the year.
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Simply stunning.
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Hello.
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CHILDREN GIGGLE
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People here rely on hunting
and fishing to survive.
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An important source of
clothing and food
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is the polar bear.
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The people here have been living
subsistence hunting lives
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for hundreds, if not thousands,
of years.
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And this is very much a part
of their culture.
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What they do is sustainable.
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00:04:32,840 --> 00:04:35,840
But, as a naturalist...
yeah, it's hard.
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I'm entering a harsh
and unforgiving world.
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Ittoqqortoormiit sits on the edge
of a vast inlet.
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Carved by glaciers,
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it's known as a fjord.
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00:05:01,360 --> 00:05:03,400
Here, the freezing Arctic Ocean
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reaches 300km inland.
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Scoresbysund is the biggest
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00:05:09,840 --> 00:05:11,680
fjord system on the planet.
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But it's also on the front line
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of climate change.
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The Arctic sea ice is shrinking,
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and following one of the warmest
winters on record,
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the ice here has broken up earlier
than ever before.
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This gives us a unique opportunity
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to kayak up the fjord
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and see what impact rising
temperatures are having
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on this wilderness.
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00:05:50,680 --> 00:05:53,240
I've put together
a world-class team
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of Arctic explorers to help me.
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Sarah McNair-Landry
is a polar adventurer
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00:06:02,640 --> 00:06:04,280
who's been to both poles
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00:06:04,280 --> 00:06:07,960
and crossed the Greenland
icecap six times.
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00:06:07,960 --> 00:06:10,720
I'm really excited about this area
because I've spent a lot of time
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in Greenland, but mostly on
the icecap,
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kite-skiing and skiing.
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00:06:14,240 --> 00:06:15,920
And a lot of time on the west coast
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00:06:15,920 --> 00:06:17,680
of Greenland, but I've never...
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00:06:17,680 --> 00:06:19,520
This is a totally new area for me.
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00:06:22,960 --> 00:06:27,240
Martin Rickard has kayaked
over 11,000km in sea ice.
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00:06:29,680 --> 00:06:32,120
It's managing the risk of the ice
and the weather,
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00:06:32,120 --> 00:06:35,160
and then the effect that the weather
and the tide will have
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00:06:35,160 --> 00:06:38,680
on that ice, and how it can move
very dramatically -
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block us off, trap boats.
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00:06:40,560 --> 00:06:43,680
It could blow us all
out to sea quite quickly
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00:06:43,680 --> 00:06:45,600
if we weren't on our game.
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The final member
of the team to arrive
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00:06:53,440 --> 00:06:56,280
is my good friend Aldo Kane.
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Dude!
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He's a former Royal Marine,
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and will be our safety
expert and medic.
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00:07:03,800 --> 00:07:05,560
I've never been to Greenland.
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I've wanted to come here since
I was, honestly, about that size.
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This is wonderful.
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WIND WHISTLES
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ANIMALS SQUEAL AND BARK
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Before we set off, Sarah and I
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00:07:25,120 --> 00:07:28,000
are meeting up with
local hunter Aqqalu.
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Hello.
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00:07:29,080 --> 00:07:30,400
Steve. Aqqalu.
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00:07:30,400 --> 00:07:32,360
Nice to meet you, Aqqalu.
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Sarah.
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00:07:33,440 --> 00:07:36,120
He's taking us a short
distance up the coast
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00:07:36,120 --> 00:07:38,520
to show us how the changing climate
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is affecting his hunting grounds.
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And the easiest way to get there
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00:07:44,440 --> 00:07:46,440
is dog sled.
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00:07:46,440 --> 00:07:49,280
Word used for left and right?
To turn?
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00:07:52,760 --> 00:07:54,800
Lju? Yeah. Lju. Lju.
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00:07:57,240 --> 00:07:58,240
Yeah.
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00:08:00,680 --> 00:08:02,480
DOGS PANT
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00:08:10,080 --> 00:08:13,000
The Inuit have used dogs
to pull sleds
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00:08:13,000 --> 00:08:14,680
for over 4,000 years.
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00:08:16,400 --> 00:08:20,720
These hardy animals made travel
and hunting in the Arctic possible,
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00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:23,000
allowing humans to make a home here.
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00:08:30,760 --> 00:08:34,400
Aqqalu has brought us to a place
overlooking the fjord,
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00:08:34,400 --> 00:08:36,680
where he'd usually hunt
with his dogs.
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00:08:50,160 --> 00:08:53,400
Is this the earliest break-up
you've seen?
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00:08:53,400 --> 00:08:54,520
Yeah.
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00:08:54,520 --> 00:08:57,160
And how does that affect hunting?
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00:09:09,120 --> 00:09:10,640
So maybe ten years ago,
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our expedition would be impossible.
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You would not be able to kayak
down... No. ..into the fjord.
146
00:09:19,080 --> 00:09:20,320
And now?
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SARAH LAUGHS
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No-one has ever kayaked up the fjord
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00:09:27,600 --> 00:09:29,120
at this time of year.
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Our goal is to reach
the solid sea ice...
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00:09:37,800 --> 00:09:40,440
..which now lies far up the fjord,
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to see how the animals
that live here
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are coping with their changing
world.
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HELICOPTER WHIRRING
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It's a huge, dangerous undertaking.
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And the most important bit of kit
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is our kayaks.
158
00:09:56,560 --> 00:09:58,480
Yeah, first glance, they all look
pretty good.
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00:09:58,480 --> 00:09:59,640
Yeah.
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VEHICLE BEEPING
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They're streamlined
and can squeeze through
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narrow gaps in the broken ice.
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Nice.
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00:10:22,480 --> 00:10:25,560
We're packing everything
we need to survive.
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00:10:26,720 --> 00:10:28,640
Easier said than done.
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00:10:30,000 --> 00:10:32,800
You look at the volume of kit
that's got to go in the boat,
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and you look at
the space you've got,
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and they don't correlate at all.
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Yeah, look at that.
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What lies ahead is unknown
and unpredictable,
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but we're as ready as we'll ever be.
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OK.
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We got so much gear that we need
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a front loader to haul it down.
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After years of dreaming,
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months of planning,
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finally we have a chance to get
on the water.
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How far we'll get,
we have absolutely no idea.
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Right now, it's 6am
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and we just have to pray
that the wind
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and the weather stays with us.
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Aldo, is this your med kit?
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We've tried to think
through every eventuality.
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It's always a bit of a concern
what you do
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when you're out on the water and you
need to, er...
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Well...you know.
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So I've come up with a little
system, which is this,
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which I'm going to strap to my leg.
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What could possibly go wrong?
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Oh, no, it's got a
massive hole in it!
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All my grand plans.
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And my pee-bag's got a massive hole.
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Thank goodness I found it.
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ALDO: I'm kind of a little bit
gutted that you did find it.
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We have three larger boats
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which will carry the film crew
and their equipment.
197
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They'll follow when possible.
But if the ice blocks their way...
198
00:12:15,200 --> 00:12:17,480
..we'll push on in the kayaks
without them.
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00:12:20,560 --> 00:12:22,880
It's not a big day, in terms
of distance.
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00:12:22,880 --> 00:12:24,760
If we head for, er...
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..Kap Hope. Mm-hm.
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00:12:26,400 --> 00:12:29,080
Does it work out about 12, 14K?
Yeah. I think so.
203
00:12:29,080 --> 00:12:32,040
But it'll be much more than that
because we'll be going all the way
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00:12:32,040 --> 00:12:33,880
around the outskirts of the bay,
205
00:12:33,880 --> 00:12:36,520
and bumping our way off bits of ice
206
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as we go, so it'll be slow.
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00:12:38,760 --> 00:12:42,640
So I suggest that we hug
the coastline, and head around.
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00:12:46,080 --> 00:12:48,320
Today, we're aiming
for the abandoned hunting settlement
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00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:49,960
of Kap Hope.
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Our local boat captain, Johan,
thinks we can spend
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00:12:55,800 --> 00:12:57,840
our first night there.
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00:13:04,360 --> 00:13:06,200
Happy? Letting go.
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00:13:06,200 --> 00:13:07,320
Yep, got it.
214
00:13:20,000 --> 00:13:21,760
Oh, bring up the rear, yep.
215
00:13:30,960 --> 00:13:33,600
Best practice is for us to be quite
close together,
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00:13:33,600 --> 00:13:36,640
certainly within visual
distance of each other
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00:13:36,640 --> 00:13:38,000
at all times.
218
00:13:38,000 --> 00:13:40,080
And if I'm getting too far ahead,
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00:13:40,080 --> 00:13:41,800
then you guys need to shout me.
220
00:13:44,840 --> 00:13:47,400
We need to watch each other's backs.
221
00:13:49,160 --> 00:13:51,880
The air temperature
is well below freezing
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00:13:51,880 --> 00:13:55,160
and the sea is turning
to ice around us.
223
00:14:07,560 --> 00:14:11,600
The narrow profile of the kayaks
makes them unstable
224
00:14:11,600 --> 00:14:15,320
and paddling in these
conditions is dangerous.
225
00:14:15,320 --> 00:14:17,400
LOUD CRACK
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00:14:18,840 --> 00:14:21,440
The second anyone capsizes,
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00:14:21,440 --> 00:14:24,200
goes over, comes out of their boat,
228
00:14:24,200 --> 00:14:28,080
it's going to become a survival
situation instantaneously.
229
00:14:30,120 --> 00:14:33,120
A capsize can take about 15 minutes
230
00:14:33,120 --> 00:14:36,160
to sort out and get someone
back in the boat,
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00:14:36,160 --> 00:14:39,000
by which time, you WILL be
hypothermic.
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00:14:47,400 --> 00:14:50,480
This ice may look harmless.
233
00:14:50,480 --> 00:14:53,040
But, stealthily...
234
00:14:53,040 --> 00:14:55,560
..and menacingly...
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00:14:55,560 --> 00:14:57,080
..it moves.
236
00:15:02,160 --> 00:15:05,200
Some chunks are larger than
football fields,
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00:15:05,200 --> 00:15:07,240
and weigh thousands of tonnes.
238
00:15:10,680 --> 00:15:12,720
Pushed by the wind,
239
00:15:12,720 --> 00:15:15,120
and pulled by the
ebb and flow of the tides...
240
00:15:16,320 --> 00:15:18,000
..they could easily crush a kayak.
241
00:15:20,160 --> 00:15:22,160
I don't think there's
anywhere else on Earth
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00:15:22,160 --> 00:15:24,520
where you feel quite so small,
243
00:15:24,520 --> 00:15:27,600
quite so vulnerable,
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00:15:27,600 --> 00:15:32,200
and quite so much
like the environment is...
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00:15:32,200 --> 00:15:33,320
..the master of you.
246
00:15:52,160 --> 00:15:54,560
So, that's a classic example
of what's closed up since
247
00:15:54,560 --> 00:15:56,280
they've gone through. Yeah.
248
00:15:57,840 --> 00:15:59,400
Sarah and I make it through.
249
00:16:00,840 --> 00:16:02,200
But just behind us,
250
00:16:02,200 --> 00:16:04,400
the ice has already closed in.
251
00:16:08,640 --> 00:16:11,080
What's that? They're already stuck.
252
00:16:12,440 --> 00:16:14,360
That's closed up already.
253
00:16:17,120 --> 00:16:18,960
I don't know if you can push
it out the way.
254
00:16:18,960 --> 00:16:19,960
Trying.
255
00:16:21,520 --> 00:16:23,800
It just completely, er,
closed up again.
256
00:16:23,800 --> 00:16:24,840
Yeah, I saw that.
257
00:16:40,880 --> 00:16:42,880
Are you guys all right behind me?
258
00:16:42,880 --> 00:16:44,200
SARAH: Yep...
259
00:16:45,360 --> 00:16:46,960
That didn't sound very convinced.
260
00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:49,080
These guys are just a little
stuck over here.
261
00:16:49,080 --> 00:16:51,520
Oh, OK. Shall I wait?
262
00:16:51,520 --> 00:16:53,360
Maybe just hold up for a sec.
263
00:17:07,320 --> 00:17:08,480
Yeah.
264
00:17:10,560 --> 00:17:13,400
It's amazing how quickly
it sets in round about you.
265
00:17:13,400 --> 00:17:14,400
I know. And moves.
266
00:17:15,640 --> 00:17:16,800
Aldo's through.
267
00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:20,880
But Martin's not so lucky.
268
00:17:28,440 --> 00:17:31,800
He needs to use his ice axe
to drag himself
269
00:17:31,800 --> 00:17:33,920
inch by inch.
270
00:17:33,920 --> 00:17:35,920
That's why everyone needed an axe.
271
00:17:35,920 --> 00:17:36,960
Yeah.
272
00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:54,800
We've travelled just
a few hundred metres from town.
273
00:17:56,640 --> 00:17:59,000
And we're already getting a sense
of how challenging
274
00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:00,720
this trip will be.
275
00:18:09,680 --> 00:18:13,920
After pushing through the ice
for six hours,
276
00:18:13,920 --> 00:18:16,760
we've finally broken out
into open water.
277
00:18:18,200 --> 00:18:19,200
Yeah!
278
00:18:20,440 --> 00:18:21,840
That's more like it!
279
00:18:28,920 --> 00:18:32,000
But the satisfaction of
clocking up some kilometres
280
00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:34,120
is tinged with a sense of unease.
281
00:18:38,840 --> 00:18:43,000
This should be an unbroken, infinite
stretch of white.
282
00:18:43,000 --> 00:18:46,240
You should be able to
drive a tank across it.
283
00:18:46,240 --> 00:18:49,400
But there's open sea, enough
for us to paddle.
284
00:18:49,400 --> 00:18:52,520
Earlier this year,
the Arctic ice was measured
285
00:18:52,520 --> 00:18:56,680
and it was the second
lowest that had ever been on record.
286
00:18:56,680 --> 00:18:58,560
Last year was the lowest.
287
00:18:59,640 --> 00:19:03,800
So, the speed that things are
changing here,
288
00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:08,200
the undeniable effect
that it's having on the landscape
289
00:19:08,200 --> 00:19:12,240
and the rhythms of the Arctic
are tangible -
290
00:19:12,240 --> 00:19:14,440
that's something that's
absolutely real.
291
00:19:23,520 --> 00:19:26,400
I'd expected to see certain animals
292
00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:28,760
which should be plentiful
at this time of year.
293
00:19:33,960 --> 00:19:37,200
I just have a feeling
that this just isn't right.
294
00:19:37,200 --> 00:19:39,760
We haven't seen a single seal.
295
00:19:39,760 --> 00:19:41,640
SARAH: I'm really surprised,
actually, that
296
00:19:41,640 --> 00:19:42,680
we haven't seen seals.
297
00:19:42,680 --> 00:19:44,200
This is, like, the time of year
298
00:19:44,200 --> 00:19:46,560
that they should all be
up on the ice.
299
00:19:48,240 --> 00:19:50,880
Seals need the solid ice to rest,
300
00:19:50,880 --> 00:19:52,520
digest their food,
301
00:19:52,520 --> 00:19:54,960
and give birth to their pups.
302
00:19:57,520 --> 00:19:59,440
The sea ice is absolutely
303
00:19:59,440 --> 00:20:01,360
vital to their life cycle.
304
00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:11,920
Are your feet ice blocks?
305
00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:14,560
Absolutely frozen solid.
306
00:20:17,840 --> 00:20:20,280
We're cold and exhausted,
307
00:20:20,280 --> 00:20:22,320
but we've made it to Kap Hope.
308
00:20:25,040 --> 00:20:29,640
So eerie
seeing a ghost town like that.
309
00:20:29,640 --> 00:20:32,440
Kind of looming out through
the mist, isn't it? Mm.
310
00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:37,440
I think it was an old community
and now it's just hunting cabins.
311
00:20:43,000 --> 00:20:44,040
This is us.
312
00:20:49,160 --> 00:20:54,680
The last residents of this
hunting community left 18 years ago
313
00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:56,840
when the demand
for seal skins fell away.
314
00:20:58,440 --> 00:21:00,120
That is proper spooky.
315
00:21:08,800 --> 00:21:10,640
I'm not sleeping in there.
316
00:21:18,120 --> 00:21:20,000
Looks like an old muskox...
317
00:21:21,200 --> 00:21:23,120
..skull.
318
00:21:23,120 --> 00:21:27,160
TAPPING FOOT ON FLOOR
319
00:21:27,160 --> 00:21:29,280
DOOR CREAKING
320
00:21:35,240 --> 00:21:36,200
Steve?
321
00:21:38,520 --> 00:21:39,680
Check this out.
322
00:21:41,920 --> 00:21:43,120
Oh, wow.
323
00:21:43,120 --> 00:21:44,160
It looks like a....
324
00:21:45,600 --> 00:21:47,200
..bit of a bothy, doesn't it?
325
00:21:50,840 --> 00:21:53,080
I, kind of, expect to see
326
00:21:53,080 --> 00:21:56,160
white tape in the shape of a person
on the ground.
327
00:21:59,400 --> 00:22:03,880
That's not the atmospheric
hunting hut I was thinking of.
328
00:22:03,880 --> 00:22:05,280
Wherever I lay my hat.
329
00:22:09,040 --> 00:22:11,600
This one, so far, is
better than the other ones
330
00:22:11,600 --> 00:22:13,240
I poked my head in. Is it?
331
00:22:13,240 --> 00:22:15,440
Well, it's not full of snow.
332
00:22:15,440 --> 00:22:18,000
Ah, no - there are bullets
everywhere.
333
00:22:18,000 --> 00:22:19,520
That's a big old round.
334
00:22:20,640 --> 00:22:22,280
It's got roofs, it's got walls.
335
00:22:23,720 --> 00:22:25,800
So...yeah. It's home.
336
00:22:33,320 --> 00:22:36,400
At this time of year,
the sun never sets.
337
00:22:37,840 --> 00:22:40,440
But it's been
a full day of paddling
338
00:22:40,440 --> 00:22:42,040
and by nine o'clock,
339
00:22:42,040 --> 00:22:43,280
we're all in bed.
340
00:22:43,280 --> 00:22:46,480
SNORING
341
00:22:59,080 --> 00:23:01,960
Today's paddle
has the potential to test all of us
342
00:23:01,960 --> 00:23:03,760
to our limits.
343
00:23:07,840 --> 00:23:12,040
It's six degrees below zero,
plus wind-chill.
344
00:23:12,040 --> 00:23:15,000
A wise person once said
that there is no such thing
345
00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:18,000
as bad weather, just bad clothing.
346
00:23:18,000 --> 00:23:19,560
Er...
347
00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:22,160
..that person was...
348
00:23:22,160 --> 00:23:23,720
..full of it.
349
00:23:23,720 --> 00:23:27,040
There is ABSOLUTELY weather
that you can't
350
00:23:27,040 --> 00:23:29,800
prepare for, and you can't have
clothing for.
351
00:23:29,800 --> 00:23:31,800
And, er, this is
borderline, you know?
352
00:23:34,240 --> 00:23:36,080
Even our thermals and drysuits
353
00:23:36,080 --> 00:23:37,520
can't keep out the cold.
354
00:23:38,720 --> 00:23:41,360
Hopefully they'll warm up
once we get in the water.
355
00:23:46,240 --> 00:23:50,080
There is a big, thick layer of ice
ahead of us
356
00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:51,920
which looks quite intimidating,
357
00:23:51,920 --> 00:23:53,800
and might be impenetrable.
358
00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,800
We just have to go and have a look.
359
00:23:56,800 --> 00:23:58,240
That's all we can do.
360
00:24:00,080 --> 00:24:02,880
Check it out up close,
and see if we can push through it.
361
00:24:08,360 --> 00:24:11,600
We have a huge inlet to cross.
362
00:24:11,600 --> 00:24:13,640
10km wide,
363
00:24:13,640 --> 00:24:15,680
and packed with slabs of broken ice.
364
00:24:18,400 --> 00:24:21,280
We'll be paddling
far from the safety of shore
365
00:24:21,280 --> 00:24:23,000
and if the wind picks up,
366
00:24:23,000 --> 00:24:25,440
we could easily
get pushed out to sea.
367
00:24:32,560 --> 00:24:36,320
This whole environment, even though
it looks completely motionless,
368
00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:39,040
it's always changing, always moving
369
00:24:39,040 --> 00:24:43,120
and you just never know
what's going to happen next.
370
00:24:45,560 --> 00:24:49,200
Yesterday's paddle gave us a taste
of how quickly the ice can move.
371
00:24:51,640 --> 00:24:54,840
Today, venturing further
from the coast,
372
00:24:54,840 --> 00:24:57,640
the winds and tides
will be stronger.
373
00:25:00,400 --> 00:25:02,680
If this started to close in on you,
374
00:25:02,680 --> 00:25:04,840
you'd be in so much trouble.
375
00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:07,680
Yeah, that could be...
That could be a bad situation.
376
00:25:09,920 --> 00:25:12,920
But ice isn't the only
danger out here.
377
00:25:18,400 --> 00:25:19,480
Bear tracks.
378
00:25:25,760 --> 00:25:27,920
Look at the size of them!
379
00:25:27,920 --> 00:25:29,800
They're the same size
as my paddle blade.
380
00:25:31,800 --> 00:25:34,520
It's the first sign of life
out here on the ice.
381
00:25:36,000 --> 00:25:38,160
And it isn't entirely welcome.
382
00:25:40,400 --> 00:25:44,440
Polar bears use sea ice
to ambush their prey.
383
00:25:44,440 --> 00:25:45,880
We need to be on our guard.
384
00:25:47,120 --> 00:25:49,480
When you're picking your way
through the pack ice like this,
385
00:25:49,480 --> 00:25:52,920
it's really serene,
it's really tranquil.
386
00:25:52,920 --> 00:25:56,640
But...you could go around any corner
and come face-to-face
387
00:25:56,640 --> 00:25:58,160
with a polar bear
388
00:25:58,160 --> 00:26:00,520
and that could be really bad.
389
00:26:05,160 --> 00:26:07,120
Our worries about bears
390
00:26:07,120 --> 00:26:09,440
are soon replaced by other concerns.
391
00:26:12,480 --> 00:26:14,040
Uh...
392
00:26:14,040 --> 00:26:15,960
This doesn't look good.
393
00:26:17,160 --> 00:26:20,000
We can't go that way.
We have to turn around.
394
00:26:22,240 --> 00:26:24,280
We're in very real danger
395
00:26:24,280 --> 00:26:25,920
of getting trapped here.
396
00:26:28,720 --> 00:26:31,560
It's impossible to see past the ice.
397
00:26:35,240 --> 00:26:38,680
We need to get out
to scan for a way through.
398
00:26:40,840 --> 00:26:42,160
It's risky.
399
00:26:47,080 --> 00:26:49,280
The ice is unstable,
400
00:26:49,280 --> 00:26:51,480
but we need to find
the route ahead.
401
00:27:07,280 --> 00:27:09,520
That does not look good.
402
00:27:13,040 --> 00:27:15,800
It's a blank expanse...
403
00:27:15,800 --> 00:27:17,960
..of ice.
404
00:27:17,960 --> 00:27:21,040
Only thing I think of, really,
is sending up the drone.
405
00:27:21,040 --> 00:27:23,000
Just flying it good and high,
406
00:27:23,000 --> 00:27:25,400
and using that as a way to try
and spot the way.
407
00:27:39,640 --> 00:27:42,720
With 100 metres of elevation,
408
00:27:42,720 --> 00:27:45,600
we can see there are
water channels in the broken ice.
409
00:27:47,440 --> 00:27:49,880
But we need to move quickly
before they close up.
410
00:27:53,680 --> 00:27:55,880
Everything here
looks the exact same.
411
00:27:57,080 --> 00:28:00,360
Yeah. So easy to lose your bearings.
412
00:28:01,440 --> 00:28:04,400
Which direction would you say
we're heading right now?
413
00:28:04,400 --> 00:28:05,840
I think we're, er...
414
00:28:07,960 --> 00:28:10,040
..heading out west, and then...
415
00:28:10,040 --> 00:28:12,560
But ideally we need to be cutting
north-east, don't we?
416
00:28:13,760 --> 00:28:16,360
To get back to land. Yeah, we do.
Yeah.
417
00:28:18,240 --> 00:28:21,680
The shifting ice has forced us
to paddle way off course.
418
00:28:25,120 --> 00:28:27,560
We're now 6km from land
419
00:28:27,560 --> 00:28:29,520
and water channels
are closing quicker
420
00:28:29,520 --> 00:28:31,240
than we can paddle through them.
421
00:28:35,520 --> 00:28:37,920
It's already started
to close in behind us.
422
00:28:39,920 --> 00:28:42,000
We need to get out of here
as quick as we can.
423
00:28:50,760 --> 00:28:52,280
I've pushed on ahead.
424
00:28:56,520 --> 00:28:59,280
But the ice has closed in
all around me.
425
00:29:02,800 --> 00:29:05,160
Oh, I don't like
the look of this at all.
426
00:29:06,160 --> 00:29:07,600
Can you, er...
427
00:29:07,600 --> 00:29:10,400
Can you see Steve there?
428
00:29:10,400 --> 00:29:11,440
Can you see Steve?
429
00:29:14,480 --> 00:29:16,120
I can see his paddle.
430
00:29:18,920 --> 00:29:21,960
I'm separated
from the rest of the team.
431
00:29:26,280 --> 00:29:28,760
There's just no way on.
432
00:29:28,760 --> 00:29:30,560
Every single time I paddle,
433
00:29:30,560 --> 00:29:32,760
it turns into a blind alley
and you're stuck.
434
00:29:34,520 --> 00:29:37,520
And now, I also have no way...
435
00:29:37,520 --> 00:29:39,080
How am I going to get back?
436
00:29:41,920 --> 00:29:44,560
Steve is on the other side
of this ice here
437
00:29:44,560 --> 00:29:47,400
but the general flow,
it's all going that way.
438
00:29:47,400 --> 00:29:50,440
That's 180 degrees
from where we want to go.
439
00:29:52,480 --> 00:29:55,120
We're going a long way,
the wrong way.
440
00:29:56,240 --> 00:29:57,880
This isn't cool, is it?
441
00:30:03,640 --> 00:30:06,280
As the hours have passed,
442
00:30:06,280 --> 00:30:09,560
the tide and wind have started
to move the ice.
443
00:30:13,200 --> 00:30:16,080
Our worst fears are becoming
a reality.
444
00:30:16,080 --> 00:30:18,920
We're being taken away from shore
and out to sea.
445
00:30:25,600 --> 00:30:30,200
We need to get back together
and find a way out of the ice fast.
446
00:30:31,480 --> 00:30:33,680
Do you guys want to try
pushing through on your boat?
447
00:30:35,560 --> 00:30:38,240
The filming boats have managed
to stay with us,
448
00:30:38,240 --> 00:30:41,840
and Johan the driver tries to force
a passage through the ice.
449
00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:53,160
He manages to open a channel.
450
00:31:01,320 --> 00:31:03,480
And we're reunited.
451
00:31:03,480 --> 00:31:06,240
OK, you might want to have to power
through these before they close.
452
00:31:10,520 --> 00:31:13,120
Oh, I think I see open water.
453
00:31:13,120 --> 00:31:14,960
Massive area of open water.
454
00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:15,960
Yeah!
455
00:31:24,960 --> 00:31:26,920
We can see open sea ahead,
which is good,
456
00:31:26,920 --> 00:31:28,760
but we're still a long ways off
the coast.
457
00:31:28,760 --> 00:31:30,880
We're about 5km from
where we want to be.
458
00:31:33,000 --> 00:31:35,120
But it's a nice sight to see
the open ocean.
459
00:31:38,320 --> 00:31:42,520
We're worn out after seven
hours on the freezing water.
460
00:31:42,520 --> 00:31:47,040
We need an easy landing spot
so we can make camp for the night.
461
00:31:48,040 --> 00:31:50,080
Oh, I think we're in luck, mate.
462
00:31:51,120 --> 00:31:53,160
I think we are too.
463
00:31:53,160 --> 00:31:55,280
Right, this lead is
taking us all the way in.
464
00:31:56,960 --> 00:31:59,240
All that's missing is a red carpet.
465
00:31:59,240 --> 00:32:01,680
And the margarita!
And the margarita.
466
00:32:03,920 --> 00:32:04,920
Eventually.
467
00:32:12,040 --> 00:32:14,480
This will be our first night
under canvas,
468
00:32:14,480 --> 00:32:17,520
and we won't
have the safety of last night's hut.
469
00:32:17,520 --> 00:32:19,320
We need to be vigilant.
470
00:32:22,000 --> 00:32:24,520
Everyone keep their eyes
open for bears. Yeah.
471
00:32:35,800 --> 00:32:36,800
Flat.
472
00:32:38,480 --> 00:32:41,080
Good view for any potential
bears coming in.
473
00:32:42,360 --> 00:32:43,520
Perfect.
474
00:32:48,640 --> 00:32:49,720
Oh, it's cold now.
475
00:32:51,800 --> 00:32:54,240
Fingertips are absolutely frozen.
476
00:32:55,200 --> 00:32:58,840
Yeah, it'll nice to get
camp set up, a hot chocolate.
477
00:33:10,320 --> 00:33:14,040
As the sun skirts the horizon,
we sleep in shifts...
478
00:33:19,720 --> 00:33:23,960
..each of us taking turns to scan
for the Arctic's top predator.
479
00:33:26,560 --> 00:33:29,200
I'm on the midnight shift of
polar bear watch.
480
00:33:32,240 --> 00:33:37,160
I've been here about
25 minutes, half an hour.
481
00:33:37,160 --> 00:33:40,120
What I can see up on the hill...
482
00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:45,040
..are these last two white specks,
going like,
483
00:33:45,040 --> 00:33:47,440
running all the way,
they're two hares.
484
00:33:49,400 --> 00:33:52,280
Running down the hill
and it's amazing to see.
485
00:33:52,280 --> 00:33:55,040
They're totally unaware
that we're down here
486
00:33:55,040 --> 00:33:58,400
and just going about their
own business.
487
00:33:59,680 --> 00:34:01,120
It's pretty amazing.
488
00:34:15,720 --> 00:34:18,560
It's 4:00 in the morning,
489
00:34:18,560 --> 00:34:22,520
and I'm taking my shift on
bear watch.
490
00:34:22,520 --> 00:34:27,640
The whole midnight sun thing
could really mess with your mind.
491
00:34:27,640 --> 00:34:30,600
The fact that for three months of
the year
492
00:34:30,600 --> 00:34:32,880
the sun never rises here
493
00:34:32,880 --> 00:34:36,520
and then, through the spring
and the summer, it never sets.
494
00:34:37,480 --> 00:34:40,120
It's bitterly cold.
495
00:34:40,120 --> 00:34:41,520
Oh!
496
00:34:42,760 --> 00:34:47,360
So we haven't seen a bear yet,
but they're definitely out there.
497
00:34:48,640 --> 00:34:52,280
And their sense of smell is
extraordinary.
498
00:34:52,280 --> 00:34:55,560
So our camp, with the food,
499
00:34:55,560 --> 00:34:59,080
will attract bears from
miles and miles away.
500
00:34:59,080 --> 00:35:01,000
The fact of the matter is
501
00:35:01,000 --> 00:35:04,280
this is an animal that will
attack and kill human beings
502
00:35:04,280 --> 00:35:09,160
and you don't want to find out
that there's a bear nearby
503
00:35:09,160 --> 00:35:11,800
for the first time when it comes
nosing into your tent.
504
00:35:18,480 --> 00:35:20,120
It's been a long night.
505
00:35:22,080 --> 00:35:25,200
But bear watch wasn't the only
thing disturbing our sleep.
506
00:35:28,440 --> 00:35:29,480
Morning.
507
00:35:31,520 --> 00:35:32,920
Thank you very much.
508
00:35:33,960 --> 00:35:36,560
Was there a snorer in your tent
last night?
509
00:35:36,560 --> 00:35:37,760
Snorer in my tent?
510
00:35:37,760 --> 00:35:39,120
Yes.
511
00:35:39,120 --> 00:35:41,040
Someone got into your tent.
512
00:35:41,040 --> 00:35:43,520
This is the one bonus that you have
when you're on expedition
513
00:35:43,520 --> 00:35:44,920
with me is that I don't snore.
514
00:35:44,920 --> 00:35:46,520
Although you do.
515
00:35:47,960 --> 00:35:50,800
I can categorically guarantee
you were snoring last night.
516
00:35:50,800 --> 00:35:52,360
Was I? Yeah.
517
00:35:53,480 --> 00:35:55,400
It's quite funny, actually.
518
00:35:55,400 --> 00:35:59,120
We have, between us all, the most
unusual array of different snores.
519
00:35:59,120 --> 00:36:03,080
Like one tent you'll hear what
sounds like a wounded bison,
520
00:36:03,080 --> 00:36:07,440
and then another one there's kind of
like an old-fashioned steam train.
521
00:36:07,440 --> 00:36:11,320
And then from your tent
there's a kind of cute whistle
522
00:36:11,320 --> 00:36:12,360
that kind of goes...
523
00:36:13,360 --> 00:36:16,400
STEVE SNORTS AND WHINNIES
524
00:36:18,280 --> 00:36:22,080
It's whistling through my
beard, that's what it is.
525
00:36:22,080 --> 00:36:23,920
SHOUTS AND CRIES IN DISTANCE
526
00:36:44,960 --> 00:36:47,960
You can see already that it's smelt
us because it's downwind of us,
527
00:36:47,960 --> 00:36:50,520
lifting its head up,
sniffing the air.
528
00:36:50,520 --> 00:36:52,440
It's very, very aware
that we're here.
529
00:36:54,560 --> 00:36:58,480
We are just like a glowing beacon
of smell to this animal.
530
00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:04,080
Bears have been seen going in
a dead straight line for 20 miles
531
00:37:04,080 --> 00:37:05,760
towards food that they can only
have smelt.
532
00:37:07,400 --> 00:37:10,640
Polar bears are rarely scared
of humans
533
00:37:10,640 --> 00:37:13,120
and so can be extremely dangerous.
534
00:37:15,880 --> 00:37:18,360
For our safety and for his,
535
00:37:18,360 --> 00:37:19,760
we have to scare him off.
536
00:37:21,600 --> 00:37:24,080
Aldo? Hmm? Make sure you've got
the gun.
537
00:37:24,080 --> 00:37:25,920
Yeah. Have it just out and ready.
538
00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:30,480
Have you got bear flares
and everything? Yeah.
539
00:37:30,480 --> 00:37:33,160
I don't think it's a wise idea
for me to have a weapon.
540
00:37:34,800 --> 00:37:37,240
The gun and flares can be fired
above his head
541
00:37:37,240 --> 00:37:38,960
to try and frighten him away.
542
00:37:40,200 --> 00:37:42,280
If we come over to
this side of camp,
543
00:37:42,280 --> 00:37:45,280
and if everyone comes in
nice and close together.
544
00:37:51,440 --> 00:37:53,880
That yawn there is directed at us.
545
00:37:53,880 --> 00:37:56,120
That's a threat display.
546
00:37:58,160 --> 00:38:00,200
OK, he's getting quite close now.
547
00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:06,720
From there,
548
00:38:06,720 --> 00:38:09,200
he could cover this distance
in a matter of seconds.
549
00:38:13,400 --> 00:38:14,840
FLARE GUN COCKS IN DISTANCE
550
00:38:14,840 --> 00:38:16,520
You hear the guys cocking
their weapons.
551
00:38:17,880 --> 00:38:20,520
SHOUTS AND CRIES
552
00:38:20,520 --> 00:38:22,480
Go on! Go on!
553
00:38:22,480 --> 00:38:23,760
Ha! Ha!
554
00:38:24,840 --> 00:38:26,840
Get out of here! Go on!
555
00:38:26,840 --> 00:38:28,400
Go on!
556
00:38:30,000 --> 00:38:31,480
Do you want to put the flare up?
557
00:38:31,480 --> 00:38:32,440
Yeah.
558
00:38:35,520 --> 00:38:37,360
Good job. Good job.
559
00:38:37,360 --> 00:38:39,680
We hope the bright light
from these marine flares
560
00:38:39,680 --> 00:38:41,040
will drive him away.
561
00:38:48,040 --> 00:38:49,360
Hey!
562
00:38:50,360 --> 00:38:53,200
Hey!
563
00:39:00,120 --> 00:39:01,320
Shall we get another flare off?
564
00:39:05,800 --> 00:39:08,040
BANGING
565
00:39:08,040 --> 00:39:10,960
Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha!
566
00:39:10,960 --> 00:39:14,640
REPEATED BANGING
567
00:39:19,520 --> 00:39:20,840
BANGING STOPS
568
00:39:24,080 --> 00:39:26,120
Yeah, I think, hopefully,
569
00:39:26,120 --> 00:39:28,800
that will be enough to make him
get on his way.
570
00:39:28,800 --> 00:39:32,160
But you could see he just
was not frightened at all.
571
00:39:32,160 --> 00:39:35,480
He could smell food
and he just kept on coming.
572
00:39:39,960 --> 00:39:41,760
It looks like he's coming back.
573
00:39:47,240 --> 00:39:48,600
So, so far...
574
00:39:50,480 --> 00:39:53,680
..all the things that we've used,
flares firing into the air...
575
00:39:56,320 --> 00:39:57,800
..but it's not having any effect.
576
00:39:57,800 --> 00:39:59,040
He still keeps coming back.
577
00:40:07,920 --> 00:40:11,440
BANGING AND SHOUTING
578
00:40:11,440 --> 00:40:15,880
As a last resort, we try
a few well-placed stones.
579
00:40:18,600 --> 00:40:21,160
They won't hurt him
through his thick fur,
580
00:40:21,160 --> 00:40:23,600
but may put him off.
581
00:40:23,600 --> 00:40:27,320
I know it seems crazy to be
throwing stones at a bear,
582
00:40:27,320 --> 00:40:29,480
but it's for his safety
as much as ours.
583
00:40:29,480 --> 00:40:32,560
You can see he's just
keeping on coming.
584
00:40:34,960 --> 00:40:36,600
It's not putting him off.
585
00:40:38,400 --> 00:40:39,800
Go!
586
00:40:52,600 --> 00:40:54,880
There he goes.
He's gone in the water.
587
00:40:56,720 --> 00:40:57,800
He's in the water.
588
00:40:58,960 --> 00:41:01,280
Great. Perfect. OK.
589
00:41:01,280 --> 00:41:03,600
So that's exactly
what we were hoping for.
590
00:41:03,600 --> 00:41:05,640
He's gone into the water.
He's swimming around us.
591
00:41:05,640 --> 00:41:08,080
He finally decided that it
wasn't worth the confrontation.
592
00:41:09,640 --> 00:41:12,760
But it is just pure and simple
593
00:41:12,760 --> 00:41:17,360
down to the fact that, right now,
food is so, so scarce.
594
00:41:17,360 --> 00:41:21,200
Because the ice has broken up so
quickly, there are no seals around.
595
00:41:21,200 --> 00:41:25,360
We haven't seen a single seal since
we've been out here paddling,
596
00:41:25,360 --> 00:41:29,000
and he just has no option but to
come and try out everything
597
00:41:29,000 --> 00:41:32,240
that could be food
and it turned out that was us.
598
00:41:35,760 --> 00:41:38,840
Thankfully, we and the bear
are walking away
599
00:41:38,840 --> 00:41:41,000
unharmed from this encounter.
600
00:41:45,040 --> 00:41:46,960
With the sea ice shrinking,
601
00:41:46,960 --> 00:41:50,120
polar bears are forced to look
for food on land.
602
00:41:51,880 --> 00:41:56,240
This brings more bears into contact
with people and many encounters
603
00:41:56,240 --> 00:41:58,360
don't end as well as this one.
604
00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:04,960
Climate change up here is not
something that you see on a graph,
605
00:42:04,960 --> 00:42:07,280
or in stats, and facts and figures,
606
00:42:07,280 --> 00:42:10,840
it's in changes to every single day.
607
00:42:15,720 --> 00:42:18,920
Since the last Ice Age here,
at this time of year,
608
00:42:18,920 --> 00:42:22,640
this has just been a flat expanse of
ice and now it's not.
609
00:42:23,640 --> 00:42:25,800
Does it need to be any more
definitive than that?
610
00:42:38,280 --> 00:42:39,920
All right, then.
611
00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:45,560
The goal of this
kayaking trip was always to get
612
00:42:45,560 --> 00:42:48,840
as far as we could up Scoresby Sound
613
00:42:48,840 --> 00:42:52,240
to where the ice meets the ocean.
614
00:42:52,240 --> 00:42:55,840
So, back in our kayaks,
there's big headwinds.
615
00:42:55,840 --> 00:42:58,400
It's going to be a tough
day of paddling.
616
00:43:02,080 --> 00:43:05,480
We're now 30km
from where we started.
617
00:43:07,120 --> 00:43:09,520
And there's still no sign
of the solid ice that,
618
00:43:09,520 --> 00:43:10,720
at this time of year,
619
00:43:10,720 --> 00:43:12,800
should be covering the fjord.
620
00:43:18,360 --> 00:43:20,520
We kayak further and further.
621
00:43:22,160 --> 00:43:24,600
You've just got to keep paddling.
622
00:43:25,600 --> 00:43:26,640
We paddle...
623
00:43:28,440 --> 00:43:29,560
..camp...
624
00:43:31,720 --> 00:43:33,280
..watch for bears...
625
00:43:34,520 --> 00:43:35,560
..then sleep...
626
00:43:37,800 --> 00:43:38,800
..eat...
627
00:43:39,960 --> 00:43:41,240
..and paddle some more.
628
00:43:48,960 --> 00:43:51,400
It's our fourth day on the water.
629
00:43:51,400 --> 00:43:56,200
And as we get further up the fjord
and closer to the solid ice,
630
00:43:56,200 --> 00:43:59,320
we're finally starting to see
more wildlife.
631
00:44:02,160 --> 00:44:03,840
Oh, my goodness look at that!
632
00:44:05,240 --> 00:44:06,640
Amazing.
633
00:44:06,640 --> 00:44:09,480
Huge flock of eiders.
634
00:44:11,200 --> 00:44:12,800
Look at that! Wow!
635
00:44:12,800 --> 00:44:13,840
Enormous amounts.
636
00:44:15,320 --> 00:44:16,640
Oh, king eider!
637
00:44:16,640 --> 00:44:18,240
That's quite rare.
638
00:44:18,240 --> 00:44:19,280
Beautiful.
639
00:44:22,800 --> 00:44:26,160
You know, it's a reminder that
though this place may seem
640
00:44:26,160 --> 00:44:28,160
inhospitable to us,
641
00:44:28,160 --> 00:44:30,800
there are plenty of animals
that need this place
642
00:44:30,800 --> 00:44:32,240
and need it just as it is.
643
00:44:34,680 --> 00:44:37,240
They're living in
a very narrow niche.
644
00:44:37,240 --> 00:44:39,600
And when things change too quick,
645
00:44:39,600 --> 00:44:42,160
populations crash
and animals suffer.
646
00:44:43,200 --> 00:44:45,840
And that's when extinction
events happen.
647
00:44:57,400 --> 00:44:59,240
What is that little black dot there?
648
00:45:00,920 --> 00:45:02,320
A seal?
649
00:45:06,840 --> 00:45:09,920
We're now 48km up the fjord
650
00:45:09,920 --> 00:45:12,160
and we've spotted our first seal.
651
00:45:14,480 --> 00:45:16,720
That's all right, little fella.
652
00:45:16,720 --> 00:45:18,760
That's all right, stay there,
stay there.
653
00:45:21,600 --> 00:45:24,240
At this size, it's very difficult
to tell what species it is.
654
00:45:24,240 --> 00:45:27,680
But by far the most numerous up here
is the ringed seal.
655
00:45:27,680 --> 00:45:33,160
And they're also the favourite
food of the polar bear.
656
00:45:33,160 --> 00:45:35,800
Oh, that is beyond cute.
657
00:45:38,440 --> 00:45:41,280
This one here could well - it's
young enough - that it could well
658
00:45:41,280 --> 00:45:42,960
still be being seen by its mother.
659
00:45:46,440 --> 00:45:49,800
Mother seals normally
give birth on solid ice.
660
00:45:51,040 --> 00:45:53,920
The snow on top offers them
sanctuary from the worst
661
00:45:53,920 --> 00:45:57,040
of the elements and some
protection against predators.
662
00:45:59,480 --> 00:46:02,840
On the shore, like this,
they're more vulnerable.
663
00:46:05,240 --> 00:46:07,920
Everything is relying
on the pack ice.
664
00:46:10,800 --> 00:46:12,320
With the seals gone,
665
00:46:12,320 --> 00:46:15,920
there'll be nothing else
for the polar bears to hunt.
666
00:46:19,080 --> 00:46:23,560
Knowing how reliant these seals
are on solid ice,
667
00:46:23,560 --> 00:46:24,760
their future here,
668
00:46:24,760 --> 00:46:27,800
along with the polar bears
that depend on them,
669
00:46:27,800 --> 00:46:28,840
looks bleak.
670
00:46:38,760 --> 00:46:42,040
60km from where we began
our expedition,
671
00:46:42,040 --> 00:46:43,840
we stop for the night.
672
00:46:57,280 --> 00:46:59,080
On the hills behind camp,
673
00:46:59,080 --> 00:47:02,680
I spot another welcome sign of life.
674
00:47:05,320 --> 00:47:07,760
This ridge line is going
to completely hide us.
675
00:47:14,120 --> 00:47:17,720
There are eight musk oxen
just on the hill ahead of us.
676
00:47:20,320 --> 00:47:22,040
What's their eyesight like?
677
00:47:22,040 --> 00:47:23,720
Eyesight's terrible.
678
00:47:23,720 --> 00:47:26,320
Erm, hearing and sense of smell
are both very good.
679
00:47:29,160 --> 00:47:30,360
I think we can creep in closer.
680
00:47:36,280 --> 00:47:40,360
There's a tiny calf walking along
that ridge line. Can you see that?
681
00:47:40,360 --> 00:47:41,720
Look at that, it's running.
682
00:47:44,800 --> 00:47:47,240
That is special.
That's really special.
683
00:47:52,120 --> 00:47:55,160
Musk oxen have evolved to
survive here,
684
00:47:55,160 --> 00:47:57,600
making do with scarce resources.
685
00:47:58,800 --> 00:48:01,200
It is such a hard life,
686
00:48:01,200 --> 00:48:04,920
constantly grazing on these
really low-lying shrubs.
687
00:48:04,920 --> 00:48:07,800
There's not an enormous
amount of nourishment here,
688
00:48:07,800 --> 00:48:10,200
so they just have to keep
on eating nonstop.
689
00:48:12,240 --> 00:48:15,640
And when you're this size,
you need a lot of energy.
690
00:48:20,600 --> 00:48:23,200
These animals are really
struggling under climate change.
691
00:48:26,360 --> 00:48:29,280
Warm spells during winter
are now more common.
692
00:48:30,920 --> 00:48:33,760
When temperatures rise
above freezing,
693
00:48:33,760 --> 00:48:37,000
the winter snow melts,
then freezes again,
694
00:48:37,000 --> 00:48:41,040
creating a thick layer of ice
over the musk oxen's food.
695
00:48:44,320 --> 00:48:45,760
In the last decade,
696
00:48:45,760 --> 00:48:49,000
musk oxen numbers have fallen
dramatically,
697
00:48:49,000 --> 00:48:51,840
making this sighting
all the more special.
698
00:49:10,720 --> 00:49:11,920
Sarah?
699
00:49:11,920 --> 00:49:12,960
Yeah?
700
00:49:12,960 --> 00:49:14,760
We've be going an hour.
701
00:49:14,760 --> 00:49:18,400
Nice.
What say we stop and have a drink?
702
00:49:18,400 --> 00:49:19,440
Sounds good.
703
00:49:22,920 --> 00:49:27,840
Each day, we need to take on 6,000
calories to fuel our muscles
704
00:49:27,840 --> 00:49:29,720
and keep our bodies warm.
705
00:49:33,640 --> 00:49:35,480
Are you checking how you look
in the camera?
706
00:49:35,480 --> 00:49:37,480
No. Mmm-hmm!
707
00:49:37,480 --> 00:49:40,080
This is us on a stop on day five.
708
00:49:41,800 --> 00:49:44,040
And the wind has turned against us.
709
00:49:44,040 --> 00:49:46,680
Pretty much been paddling
for one hour,
710
00:49:46,680 --> 00:49:50,080
and probably done about
a kilometre, if that.
711
00:49:52,560 --> 00:49:55,000
Do you need your hand back
so you can get into your cheese?
712
00:49:55,000 --> 00:49:56,080
No, I'm good.
713
00:49:56,080 --> 00:50:01,080
I can't believe you've stopped off
with a whole block of cheese.
714
00:50:01,080 --> 00:50:02,120
You want some? No!
715
00:50:02,120 --> 00:50:03,760
This is how Canadians travel.
716
00:50:05,720 --> 00:50:07,800
I forgot to press record.
717
00:50:07,800 --> 00:50:09,000
Did you really? No.
718
00:50:09,000 --> 00:50:10,640
It's in.
719
00:50:10,640 --> 00:50:12,680
That orange cheese always kind of
scares me a bit.
720
00:50:14,360 --> 00:50:16,720
Red Leicester. That's the one.
721
00:50:16,720 --> 00:50:19,760
So, you'll quite happily
battle a polar bear
722
00:50:19,760 --> 00:50:21,600
but you're scared by cheese.
723
00:50:21,600 --> 00:50:25,040
THEY LAUGH
724
00:50:25,040 --> 00:50:26,520
God!
725
00:50:33,840 --> 00:50:35,560
This far up the fjord,
726
00:50:35,560 --> 00:50:38,280
there's less broken ice
blocking our way,
727
00:50:38,280 --> 00:50:42,160
but the ice we do
see is much, much bigger.
728
00:50:52,000 --> 00:50:53,520
Towering icebergs,
729
00:50:53,520 --> 00:50:56,560
many of them over 100 metres high.
730
00:50:59,720 --> 00:51:02,160
They are absolutely monstrous.
731
00:51:02,160 --> 00:51:05,200
Some of them the size of towns,
it looks like.
732
00:51:08,320 --> 00:51:11,400
These icebergs broke away from
gigantic glaciers
733
00:51:11,400 --> 00:51:12,840
at the end of the fjord
734
00:51:12,840 --> 00:51:16,640
and have been trapped
in solid ice over winter.
735
00:51:16,640 --> 00:51:19,240
Now, they're freed as the ice thaws.
736
00:51:24,680 --> 00:51:26,800
We can't resist a closer look.
737
00:51:29,840 --> 00:51:33,200
Oh, my goodness, that is absolutely
awe-inspiring.
738
00:51:34,320 --> 00:51:35,760
Yeah, that's pretty.
739
00:51:35,760 --> 00:51:37,600
So I think we'll paddle
this way, Sarah? Yeah.
740
00:51:40,000 --> 00:51:41,640
Whoa!
741
00:51:45,120 --> 00:51:48,360
Oh, my goodness,
that is absolutely incredible.
742
00:51:51,360 --> 00:51:53,880
This part of it is
pretty beautiful, too.
743
00:51:53,880 --> 00:51:55,000
Wow, look at that!
744
00:51:56,640 --> 00:51:58,320
That is immense.
745
00:52:00,880 --> 00:52:05,960
This ice could have originally
frozen 100,000 years ago,
746
00:52:05,960 --> 00:52:08,240
when Neanderthals still walked
the Earth.
747
00:52:10,440 --> 00:52:12,880
Beautiful as it is,
748
00:52:12,880 --> 00:52:15,360
it's a potentially lethal place.
749
00:52:15,360 --> 00:52:19,240
We want to minimise our time here
as much as we possibly can,
750
00:52:19,240 --> 00:52:23,880
because any part of this could
break, crack and fall off.
751
00:52:23,880 --> 00:52:27,680
It could even roll and, well,
752
00:52:27,680 --> 00:52:30,600
you would not want to be anywhere
near it when that happened.
753
00:52:34,040 --> 00:52:35,960
Don't get too close, Sarah.
754
00:52:35,960 --> 00:52:37,960
The wind really pushes you in.
755
00:52:37,960 --> 00:52:40,480
You see all these daggers
aimed at your head?
756
00:52:40,480 --> 00:52:42,040
SARAH LAUGHS
757
00:52:42,040 --> 00:52:43,720
God, that would hurt.
758
00:52:58,080 --> 00:53:00,520
As sea and air temperatures rise,
759
00:53:00,520 --> 00:53:03,400
more icebergs are falling
from glaciers
760
00:53:03,400 --> 00:53:05,520
and they're melting faster too,
761
00:53:05,520 --> 00:53:08,160
raising sea levels around the world.
762
00:53:12,040 --> 00:53:14,440
As ice melts,
763
00:53:14,440 --> 00:53:16,840
it creates something known
as a feedback loop.
764
00:53:21,560 --> 00:53:26,040
White snow or ice reflects sun
back up into the atmosphere.
765
00:53:26,040 --> 00:53:29,680
Dark sea soaks it up like a sink.
766
00:53:29,680 --> 00:53:32,360
So here this should be right now,
767
00:53:32,360 --> 00:53:36,240
one great big white mirror
reflecting sun away.
768
00:53:36,240 --> 00:53:41,760
Instead, it is a dark object soaking
up and retaining all that heat.
769
00:53:45,240 --> 00:53:48,160
The more it melts,
the faster it melts.
770
00:53:50,440 --> 00:53:54,480
Already the seas here in the summer
are four degrees warmer
771
00:53:54,480 --> 00:53:56,120
than they should be.
772
00:53:56,120 --> 00:53:57,160
Four degrees.
773
00:53:57,160 --> 00:53:58,880
You know, that might not sound
like much,
774
00:53:58,880 --> 00:54:01,280
but it's the difference
between it being covered with ice
775
00:54:01,280 --> 00:54:03,040
and being completely empty.
776
00:54:15,280 --> 00:54:18,720
73km in, and we spot a white line
777
00:54:18,720 --> 00:54:21,760
spanning from one side
of the fjord to the other.
778
00:54:23,600 --> 00:54:25,360
What do you think, guys?
779
00:54:25,360 --> 00:54:28,400
I think this is our big white wall.
780
00:54:35,280 --> 00:54:38,080
We've had seven days
paddling down the fjord.
781
00:54:38,080 --> 00:54:40,400
We've navigated shifting sea ice,
782
00:54:40,400 --> 00:54:43,640
freezing conditions and
a hungry polar bear to get here.
783
00:54:45,000 --> 00:54:46,880
Go on, Sarah! You can do it!
784
00:54:52,800 --> 00:54:55,160
Woo-hoo-hoo!
785
00:55:15,640 --> 00:55:17,160
Are you standing on it, Sarah?
786
00:55:17,160 --> 00:55:18,280
Just one foot.
787
00:55:18,280 --> 00:55:19,400
STEVE LAUGHS
788
00:55:21,240 --> 00:55:23,320
Oh, ho, ho! Look at that!
789
00:55:26,600 --> 00:55:27,720
Solid!
790
00:55:33,400 --> 00:55:35,480
I'm still a little bit nervous.
791
00:55:37,880 --> 00:55:38,880
Great job. Well done.
792
00:55:38,880 --> 00:55:40,880
Well done.
793
00:55:40,880 --> 00:55:42,760
Awesome.
794
00:55:42,760 --> 00:55:44,320
Well done, old bean.
795
00:55:44,320 --> 00:55:45,560
Good job. Good job.
796
00:55:45,560 --> 00:55:47,440
We've made it to the ice edge.
797
00:55:49,280 --> 00:55:52,520
But what we've witnessed
on our journey is shocking.
798
00:55:55,360 --> 00:55:58,800
This is the biggest fjord
on the planet.
799
00:55:58,800 --> 00:56:03,680
To paddle up this
is genuinely a privilege.
800
00:56:03,680 --> 00:56:06,160
But it's also quite sad.
801
00:56:07,960 --> 00:56:10,600
This time of year,
this is the earliest
802
00:56:10,600 --> 00:56:13,440
that the sea ice
has broken up on record.
803
00:56:14,640 --> 00:56:15,840
Bar none.
804
00:56:17,720 --> 00:56:22,480
And that is very definitely a signal
that the planet is changing.
805
00:56:30,080 --> 00:56:34,360
Right now, there are over 200
square kilometres more open water
806
00:56:34,360 --> 00:56:36,960
in this fjord than ever before.
807
00:56:43,200 --> 00:56:48,160
Sea ice all across the Arctic
is shrinking at an alarming rate.
808
00:56:48,160 --> 00:56:54,040
On average there are 82,000 square
kilometres less each year.
809
00:56:57,120 --> 00:57:01,160
This is the place where climate
change is a tangible reality.
810
00:57:03,080 --> 00:57:05,560
There is no question
that it's happening.
811
00:57:05,560 --> 00:57:09,880
And here you can see it, and feel
it, and touch it, and smell it.
812
00:57:19,120 --> 00:57:22,080
For the wildlife, it's catastrophic.
813
00:57:22,080 --> 00:57:26,680
It's a change in every single rhythm
that this environment goes through.
814
00:57:28,800 --> 00:57:33,680
Climate change is changing
everything now,
815
00:57:33,680 --> 00:57:35,280
not in 100 years' time.
816
00:57:35,280 --> 00:57:37,920
And unless people switch onto that,
817
00:57:37,920 --> 00:57:40,560
the impacts
are going to be felt everywhere.
818
00:57:45,880 --> 00:57:50,520
Next time, we'll be pushing further
into unexplored Arctic wilderness.
819
00:57:51,880 --> 00:57:54,920
From here on in,
we're treading new ground.
820
00:57:54,920 --> 00:57:57,280
We'll face sinking sand...
821
00:57:57,280 --> 00:57:58,520
Argh! Oh!
822
00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:01,320
..a mighty glacier.
823
00:58:01,320 --> 00:58:02,920
Come on, let's crack this last bit.
824
00:58:04,560 --> 00:58:08,960
..and attempt to climb a vast,
frozen, unsummited mountain.
825
00:58:08,960 --> 00:58:11,640
Everything is ready to go.
826
00:58:12,760 --> 00:58:13,880
Rock!
827
00:58:13,880 --> 00:58:14,960
Heads, heads, heads!
61459
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