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WOOD: Making a serieson the story of India
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has got to be the best job in the world.
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So, naturally, everyone wanted toget in on the act.
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Okay.
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Okay, don't look at camera. Thank you.
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It's time in this... Sorry. Sorry.
One minute.
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WOOD: Though sometimes, the sheer tumultdrove our soundman, Callum, to despair.
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I did one. Didn't you see? Okay.
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And our cameraman,Jeremy,
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soon discovered thatyou're never alone in India.
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This is a series about
the story of India.
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The land of wonders.
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You'd really need 1 00 filmsto tell the story of India.
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There are so many wonderful things tocompress into a few hours of television.
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Now you don't see South India on TVas often as the north.
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And one night, we shot this sceneon our small video camera,
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with the priest's permissionI should add,
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in the heart ofthe great temple of Madurai.
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For me, it's one of the most atmosphericbuildings in India.
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Or anywhere in the world,for that matter.
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Here in the deep south,
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the customs of ancient timesstill survive.
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And to me, it's irresistible.
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When the ancient Greeks came to India,
they felt at home with Indian religion.
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These gods were like Aphrodite
and Apollo and Artemis.
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British, though,
were a bit more buttoned up.
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One British administrator
came here to Madurai
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and went no further than the front gate.
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''I didn't go in,'' he said,
''I was afraid.''
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The daily rituals hereto the goddess Meenakshi
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plunge you into another way of seeing.
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Although, to the priest of the temple,of course,
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it's just the jobthat they've always done.
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They're putting Shiva to bed,
with his wife, the goddess.
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In a sense, you could say that
the whole of this vast temple is
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about their marriage and therefore,
about all marriage.
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So, of course, the god must go to bed
with his wife at the end of the day.
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You are the custodians of Shiva.
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You are the guardians
of Shiva's shrine here.
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In the 21 st century,
do you think, Guru, it's possible...
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How do you think it is possible to be
modern and also to keep the tradition?
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-That's not difficult.
-Yeah. Yeah.
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Because we easily get
all these things very easily.
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So, we are following the tradition,
I'm well settled.
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My wife is very nice.
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My children are very good.
They are studying.
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So, I'm really very happy.
This is enough for me.
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So, I'm very happy
and I am very proud of it.
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In India, the living presenceof the past is all around you.
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And the wealth of detail of the historyis just fascinating,
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especially when you meetanother history fan.
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This is a Roman Republican coin.
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WOOD: Republican coin? All right.
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-So, this is 1 st century BC?
-Yeah.
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-So this is Venus holding scales?
-Yeah. Yeah.
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Wow. That's too much.
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WOOD: Oh, that's beautiful, isn't it?
Face of a goddess.
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MAN: Head of Cybele.
WOOD: Cybele, yeah.
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-And on the other side...
-A human figure with hands extended,
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kneeling right beside a camel.
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WOOD: A human figure kneeling
beside a camel.
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MAN: (LAUGHING) Yes, camel.
WOOD: Single-humped camel?
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MAN: Yes.
WOOD: My goodness me.
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And the text on it?
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-Bacchus?
-Bacchus, yes.
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The god Dionysus, the god of wine.
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-Bacchus is the god of wine.
-I see.
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So, they liked Greek wine.
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In The Story of India, we set outto use all the historian's tools.
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Archaeology and language,texts and traditions,
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and even DNA and climate science,
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in a time when new discoveriesare being made almost every day.
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But in India, everyone hastheir own take on history.
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WOOD: Hi, how are you?
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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WOOD: Yes, please.
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Take this moment at Hastinapur,when the site guardian, Hari Ram,
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took me completely by surprise.
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What is this, Hari Ram?
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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-Harappa?
-Harappa.
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-Definite?
-Definite.
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WOOD: Not form Gupta period or...
No, Harappa?
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A figurine, it's female? Female?
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-RAM: Male. Female.
-Male? Female?
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You see the breasts marked there.
And a strange little face.
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That's 5,000 years old!No wonder history matters here.
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And the arts, too,are part of the history.
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Despite the ravages of time, no countryin the world, perhaps, is so rich
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in painting and sculpture.
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But history in India is also contested.
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Thank you very much.
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The Sultan, Mahmud Of Ghazni,is supposed to have stolen these gates
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from a Hindu temple in India,and taken them to Afghanistan.
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In the 1 840s, the British stolethem to curry favour with the Hindus.
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So this is the gate
that was taken to Ghazni?
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And then brought back by the British.
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MAN: There was a controversy
about the history.
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(LAUGHING) There is a controversy
about the history?
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You are...
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Some writer says this,
some writer says this.
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WOOD: Modern historians say,
this carving, typical of Cairo
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-and Damascus, in the 1 1 th century.
-Islamic. Yeah.
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So, if the modern historians are right,
this is Islamic wood.
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People who carved it were craftsmen from
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Syria, Egypt, who were coming to Ghazni?
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And this was the real gate of the tomb?
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MAN: That's why somebody said
this was all Muslim architecture.
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-Mostly all Muslim.
-Yeah. Yeah.
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-Nobody quite knows the truth.
-Nobody quite knows the truth.
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A warning to those whomanipulate history, as they still do,
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for political ends.
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Of course, being Britishof a certain age,
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I grew up reading school textbooksthat had a rosy-tinted view
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of the British Empire in India.
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So, in the story of India,how to handle the Raj?
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After all, imperialismis still imperialism.
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Take this scene, where I used a Britishguidebook to India from the 1 920s
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to see how they saw history then.And it's not so long ago.
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For the British, 1 857 was the most
important event in their rule in India.
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And you can see how important when you
look at the guidebooks of later times.
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This is Murray's Handbook,
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the top tourist guide to India.
This one, published in 1 929,
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is full of all
the typical British stuff,
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the adverts for Thomas Cooks
and P&O Liners.
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Adverts for the latest flash hotels,
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under European management,
of course, it stresses.
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And, in the middle, more on Lucknow
than on any other Indian city,
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with fold out maps and all the details.
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The reason, the events
that took place here in 1 857,
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the Siege of the Residency.
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It says this, ''The Residency is the spot
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''which all Englishmen
will wish to visit first in Lucknow.''
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''A place in the midst of whichone can think, thankfully and proudly,
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''of the events and deedsof that summer in 1 857.
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''On the tower overthe Residency Building,
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''the banner of England floatedduring the siege.
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''And still fliesin tribute to the dead. ''
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Even for the nation that
patented the stiff upper lip,
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it must have been
the most profound shock,
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to find yourself isolated
in a vast alien land
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that you completely fail to understand.
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The British had thought themselves
bearers of a superior culture
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bringing civilisation
to the benighted Indians,
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only to discover that,
far from being grateful,
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the Indians just wanted to kill them.
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Making films like this, you oftengo searching off the beaten track
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on the off-chance thatyou'll find hidden histories.
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And sometimes you turn up surprises.
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Rudyard Kipling, the English writer.
Here, somewhere. Do you know?
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Old house of Rudyard Kipling,
do you know?
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You don't know where it is.
Where is... No? Okay.
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Here in Allahabad,I went looking for the house
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of the great British writerRudyard Kipling.
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It's a little forgotten corner
of Allahabad, here.
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This is the house where Rudyard Kipling
lived in the late 1 880s.
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The garden where he wrote
some of those famous animal stories
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like Rikki-Tikki-Tavi, the mongoose.
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Born in India. An outsider.
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Hated what he called
the large-bore officials
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with their new respectability,
their clumps, their polo clubs
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and large verandaed houses
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with 20 or 30 servants,
even for a small family.
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Here's the house. How about that?
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Hello, good morning.
It's very nice to meet you.
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Hello, I'm Michael from London.
Very nice to meet you. Hello.
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So, is this the...
This is the Kipling house, is it?
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-Wow!
-They say, when we came in '42, '4 3,
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my father was posted here,
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and this whole building
was one bungalow...
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-Right.
-...with four big halls.
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You can see, if you want to.
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So I found the house.But more important, I met Durga,
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who'd worked for All India Radiocovering India's freedom struggle
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as a journalist in the 1 940s.
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And like so many Indian peopleon our journey,
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she welcomed us into her homeand shared her story.
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WOOD: So, you've seen big changes
since the 1 940s?
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DURGA: Big changes.
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People do not realise
how difficult it was to get freedom.
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Those who were not born,
those who have not seen,
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people even in politics are those who
don't know what was freedom struggle.
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British rule,
it was a very disciplined rule.
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But, you know, bondage, nobody likes.
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Everybody likes to be free.
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India is so vast and so diverse,that there are no black and whites,
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no full stops. And, of course,that goes especially for religion.
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This is the ancient capital of Patna,
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one of the mostinteresting places in India.
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(BELLS CHIMING)
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WOOD: So this is a city
for Hindus, Sikhs, Jains.
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But it's also a great Muslim city.
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And the last of these legendary places
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is a Muslim shrine.
See if we can find it.
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I was searching for the siteof a famous monastery
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of the Buddhist emperor Ashoka,who ruled in the 3rd century BC.
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But here in the Ganges Plain, Buddhismdied out nearly 1,000 years ago.
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What, I wondered, would be there today?
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The local people led meto the old site of Ashoka's monastery.
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And as so often in India,the place was still holy.
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This must have been a graveyard.
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In the Middle Ages,a Sufi Muslim holy man settled here,
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gathering Muslim and Hindu followers.
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And today, the local people told me,
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all religious communities stillcome here and share its festivals.
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(SPEAKING URDU)
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MAN: All religion...
WOOD: Together?
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MAN: People of all religion
meet together
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and celebrate their festival together.
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It's like a kind of legacy of Ashoka,
isn't it?
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You know, one of the key things
that he said was
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you should always show respect
for each other's religions.
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In the end, all religions are tending
for the same goal,
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for purity of mind,
and they agree in the essentials,
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even if they differ
in the superficial things.
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So never use violence of language
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about another person's religion,he says.
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Ashoka's words, of course,are still painfully relevant today
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for in history, religion has beena constant source of conflict.
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And India, the most complex religioussociety on earth, is no exception.
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Even the act of carvingbeautiful sculptures for a temple
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can be loaded with danger.
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Relations betweenHindu and Muslim have become
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a central political issue in India.
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Since the partitionof India and Pakistan in 1 94 7,
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the issue, above all,has become associated
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with the name of the sacred cityof Ayodhya.
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This temple is plannedto replace a Muslim mosque
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destroyed in religious rioting in 1 992.
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These are the pieces for the projected
Rama temple in Ayodhya.
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What they envisage is a temple
about 2 70 feet long,
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1 40 feet wide,
with a tower 1 30 feet high.
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And these are all the blocks,
that will be its facing.
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The Congress government
has said they intend to promise
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to rebuild the mosque
that was destroyed.
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This is a powerful expression of intent,
isn't it?
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Here in Ayodhya, then,the filmmaker has to be sensitive
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to biggerand more important considerations.
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WOOD: We've just come
all the way from England
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to shoot the sequence
and it seems crazy.
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It's just a few shots inside the temple.
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I don't understand.
I really don't understand.
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The police say that we can't go up
and film inside the temple,
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even though we have ministry permission.
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There's a big mela,
a huge number of pilgrims,
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security situation's very tense,
a lot of soldiers here
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and they don't want us to film.
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WOOD: Sorry. Thank you. Thank you.
MAN: Thanks.
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I have to say, though,that I love Ayodhya.
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Sacred to Muslims as well as Hindus,it seems to me
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it's a living symbolof all India's pasts.
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WOOD: Hello.
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And despite the riots of 1 992,
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something of the fabulous cultureof old Ayodhya has hung on today.
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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This is one
of those little Sufi shrines in Ayodhya.
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There were about 80 of them before 1 992,
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going back 700 years,
they called it the city of the Sufis
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or the little Mecca.
It's absolutely amazing, isn't it?
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Oh, wow! Look at this.
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Oh, that is so beautiful.
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So, the name of the Sufi?
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Ibrahim Shah.
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-Ibrahim...?
-Shah.
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Ibrahim Shah.
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So, where did Baba Ibrahim come from?
Do you know which part of the world?
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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MAN: He came for Tashkent.
And he was the Prince of Tashkent.
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From Tashkent? Yeah. From Central Asia.
A lot of these Sufis came to India.
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You know, in the aftermath
of the first Turkish armies,
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Turkic armies that came
from Central Asia,
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a lot of these holy men came to India
and made their homes here
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in the cities of the Ganges Plain.
May we go in?
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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MAN: Can you cover your head?
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WOOD: To cover my head? Thank you. Okay.
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The world's different customs.
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It's interesting.
It's very like Christianity, isn't it?
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The Muslim commemoration of the saints.
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You know, orthodoxy says
you shouldn't do this in Islam.
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But the ordinary peoples...
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They commemorated their tomb
and they still do.
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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Many Muslim buildingswere destroyed here in the rioting.
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But not by locals.
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The people here told me
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that their Hindu neighbourshelped protect this place.
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He's saying that for centuries
the two communities lived together.
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They went to each other's marriages,
they went to each other's festivals.
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Their lives were intertwined.
Isn't that amazing?
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This is just so touching, isn't it?
So touching.
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This is what happens, you know,
in the whole of history.
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People get on together
when they are left to their own devices.
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They find their accommodations.
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It's the politicians who...
Who do things.
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And in India,there's always a last twist.
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And here it came when I said goodbye
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to the guardian of this lovelyMuslim neighbourhood shrine.
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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Thank you very, very much.
Very, very kind.
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-What is your name?
-Ram Kumar Srivastav.
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(SPEAKING URDU)
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-Ram Kumar? This is not a Muslim name.
-No, no, no.
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You are from the Hindu Community?
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(SPEAKING HINDI)
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He's living...
Living proof of the story of Ayodhya.
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Fantastic. Best of luck.
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-We'll see you again.
-Bye. Bye.
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And that's India for you.
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Incomparable, endearing,forever surprising.
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The land of wonders.
27771
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