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The waters that cover most of the planet
are in constant movement.
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00:01:00,380 --> 00:01:02,760
As the moon circles around the spinning earth,
3
00:01:03,010 --> 00:01:07,600
so the pull of its gravity
causes the oceans to rise and fall,
4
00:01:07,810 --> 00:01:13,690
and twice every day, the sea surges
up and down the coasts of the continents.
5
00:01:22,860 --> 00:01:24,990
In the Bay of Fundy in North America,
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00:01:25,160 --> 00:01:28,370
the shape of the coast
and the slope of the seabed
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00:01:28,540 --> 00:01:32,870
produces the highest tides of all, rising 50 feet.
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00:01:44,260 --> 00:01:48,600
Living in this in-between world,
which is neither sea nor land,
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00:01:48,810 --> 00:01:51,640
demands very special talents.
10
00:02:00,110 --> 00:02:02,650
This is a battle ground.
11
00:02:16,170 --> 00:02:20,750
In many places, the sea is forcing the land
to retreat, cutting back its cliffs
12
00:02:20,920 --> 00:02:25,880
and leaving islands and towers
as markers of the territory that the land has lost
13
00:02:26,630 --> 00:02:28,390
The debris is swept away
14
00:02:28,550 --> 00:02:32,810
and strewn on beaches farther down the coast
as sand and gravel.
15
00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:40,400
In some places, the land is advancing.
16
00:02:40,610 --> 00:02:44,990
In the tropics, mangroves are moving
out into the sea, gathering mud
17
00:02:45,200 --> 00:02:48,450
and building new territory
for land-living creatures.
18
00:02:51,080 --> 00:02:52,620
Even in the mouths of rivers,
19
00:02:52,790 --> 00:02:57,670
where fresh water laden with sediment
mingles with the salt water of the sea,
20
00:02:57,830 --> 00:03:01,790
new land is being created of a sort.
21
00:03:07,380 --> 00:03:10,720
I'm in an estuary in the west of England.
22
00:03:10,970 --> 00:03:16,560
You might think that this mud is not
the most attractive stuff in which to live.
23
00:03:16,890 --> 00:03:21,860
Certainly, animals that do live in it
have to face some severe problems.
24
00:03:22,150 --> 00:03:26,030
Part of their time they're out of water like this,
25
00:03:26,280 --> 00:03:28,700
part of the time they're underwater.
26
00:03:28,990 --> 00:03:31,030
The saltiness of the water, too, varies.
27
00:03:31,200 --> 00:03:35,660
Fresh water comes down
from the land, the tides bring in salt water.
28
00:03:35,910 --> 00:03:41,710
And then there's the nature
of this extraordinarily sticky mud itself.
29
00:03:42,710 --> 00:03:45,510
It is so glutinous that little oxygen gets into it
30
00:03:45,670 --> 00:03:50,510
but the rewards for enduring
these unpromising conditions are high.
31
00:03:55,430 --> 00:03:58,770
Edible particles
deposited on the surface of the mud
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00:03:58,940 --> 00:04:04,230
are cautiously sucked up
by the searching siphon of Scrobicularia,
33
00:04:04,480 --> 00:04:09,700
a mollusc whose main body, enclosed in a shell,
hides in the mud for safety.
34
00:04:10,200 --> 00:04:13,740
A tiny crustacean, Corophium, half an inch long,
35
00:04:13,910 --> 00:04:17,120
grazes on the bacteria
which proliferate in millions,
36
00:04:17,410 --> 00:04:20,500
breaking down rotting organic matter in the mud.
37
00:04:22,500 --> 00:04:23,880
Ragworms live in burrows
38
00:04:24,040 --> 00:04:28,670
and will tackle Corophium, algae, bacteria,
almost anything that's around.
39
00:04:38,020 --> 00:04:40,640
The puddles are flecked with floating mucus.
40
00:04:40,850 --> 00:04:44,810
It is produced by spire shells,
no bigger than grains of wheat.
41
00:04:45,060 --> 00:04:49,740
The mucus attracts bacteria,
and the spire shells eat the lot.
42
00:05:04,040 --> 00:05:07,710
The peacock worm fans out its tentacles
from the top of its tube
43
00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:11,010
to gather food particles before they settle.
44
00:05:23,940 --> 00:05:26,270
Beating threads on each filament of the fan
45
00:05:26,440 --> 00:05:29,860
transport the catch
down to the mouth at the centre.
46
00:05:34,570 --> 00:05:38,450
While it feeds,
it also disgorges a cement of mud and mucus
47
00:05:38,620 --> 00:05:40,910
and builds up the margin of its tube.
48
00:05:47,630 --> 00:05:49,920
The cockle lies with its shell agape,
49
00:05:50,090 --> 00:05:53,800
filtering the water
by sucking it in through one siphon...
50
00:05:55,930 --> 00:05:58,970
...and blowing it out through another.
51
00:06:01,180 --> 00:06:04,310
Mussels use the same technique,
collecting within their shells
52
00:06:04,520 --> 00:06:10,360
substantial quantities of the abundant
and nutritious drifting particles.
53
00:06:16,070 --> 00:06:19,410
When the tide goes out,
they clamp their shells tightly together
54
00:06:19,620 --> 00:06:23,000
to keep in their moisture
and to keep out attackers,
55
00:06:23,330 --> 00:06:25,750
but some creatures know how to deal with that.
56
00:06:35,380 --> 00:06:39,890
Each oyster-catcher has its favourite technique
for dealing with mussels.
57
00:06:40,260 --> 00:06:42,810
It is usually the same as that used by its parents
58
00:06:42,970 --> 00:06:48,610
though a bird needs years of practice
before it becomes really expert.
59
00:06:49,060 --> 00:06:53,740
Some hunt in the shallow waters
for mussels that have not yet shut their shells.
60
00:06:58,530 --> 00:07:02,740
Others carry unattached shells
away from the main flock
61
00:07:02,910 --> 00:07:04,620
so they've got a little privacy.
62
00:07:04,950 --> 00:07:10,000
They skilfully place the mussel in such a position
that they can cut it open along its hinge.
63
00:07:24,060 --> 00:07:27,730
Other individual birds resort to brute force.
64
00:07:27,980 --> 00:07:30,560
They hammer their way in through the shell itself.
65
00:07:41,870 --> 00:07:46,160
As the tide retreats still further,
spire shells are exposed,
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00:07:46,330 --> 00:07:50,500
as many as 35,000 buried
within a single square yard.
67
00:07:50,750 --> 00:07:54,170
All these mud feeders together
constitute a rich prize,
68
00:07:54,340 --> 00:07:56,630
and there are abundant claimants.
69
00:08:11,520 --> 00:08:14,610
Sandpipers, on migration, depend on them,
70
00:08:14,820 --> 00:08:18,950
but at all times of the year,
wading birds come to the estuaries to feed.
71
00:08:22,320 --> 00:08:25,080
The godwit,
equipped with long legs and a long bill,
72
00:08:25,240 --> 00:08:27,290
can wade in water several inches deep
73
00:08:27,450 --> 00:08:30,540
and collect food
before it can be reached by other birds.
74
00:08:32,460 --> 00:08:35,000
The curlew prefers to work out of water.
75
00:08:35,380 --> 00:08:38,760
Its long bill enables it
to probe deep into the mud for a worm,
76
00:08:39,010 --> 00:08:41,590
and serves equally well as a pair of forceps.
77
00:08:46,810 --> 00:08:50,230
The dunlin is a smaller bird
and goes for smaller prey:
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00:08:50,480 --> 00:08:51,980
Ragworms and insect larvae.
79
00:08:52,310 --> 00:08:55,020
It feels for its food with its short bill.
80
00:09:19,840 --> 00:09:22,050
The ringed plover, with a very short bill,
81
00:09:22,380 --> 00:09:26,100
can only collect food
from the surface and locates it by sight.
82
00:09:26,390 --> 00:09:30,680
It works alone so that its prey
won't be disturbed by pattering feet
83
00:09:30,850 --> 00:09:33,310
and withdraw before being spotted.
84
00:09:35,730 --> 00:09:37,360
The scything action of the avocet
85
00:09:37,520 --> 00:09:39,980
collects creatures that live in the liquid mud.
86
00:09:49,620 --> 00:09:53,620
Their bills are very sensitive.
As soon as they close on something edible,
87
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the bird can juggle it up into its mouth.
88
00:10:39,170 --> 00:10:43,720
The quantities of food taken by wading birds
from estuaries is enormous.
89
00:10:43,880 --> 00:10:48,550
Some species consume every day
about a third of their own weight in food.
90
00:10:48,760 --> 00:10:51,430
In a year, a single oyster-catcher
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00:10:51,600 --> 00:10:54,770
can consume the flesh over half a ton of cockles,
92
00:10:55,060 --> 00:10:59,610
and many an estuary
supports tens of thousands of wading birds,
93
00:10:59,810 --> 00:11:02,230
so these places are rich indeed.
94
00:11:06,030 --> 00:11:09,240
As the river brings down
more and more particles of mud,
95
00:11:09,490 --> 00:11:12,620
so the flats grow bigger and higher,
96
00:11:12,830 --> 00:11:18,170
and on their surface they develop a slimy skin,
97
00:11:18,500 --> 00:11:22,590
and that's formed by microscopic plants, algae.
98
00:11:22,960 --> 00:11:25,970
They start the process of consolidation.
99
00:11:26,760 --> 00:11:31,180
But soon, bigger plants get root,
like this glasswort,
100
00:11:31,350 --> 00:11:34,310
and now the process really speeds up.
101
00:11:38,060 --> 00:11:43,320
As the high tide brings in more mud particles,
they clog around the stems of the glasswort
102
00:11:43,530 --> 00:11:46,740
and don't swill back to the sea when the tide fall
103
00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:50,910
So with each new tide,
the flats grow higher and higher.
104
00:11:53,700 --> 00:11:57,000
Glasswort is a plant
of the cold estuaries of Europe.
105
00:11:57,250 --> 00:12:03,040
In the tropics, the colonisers
of mud are not small plants but trees:
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00:12:03,250 --> 00:12:04,670
Mangroves.
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00:12:07,510 --> 00:12:11,640
This mud is the pulverised remains
of rocks eroded from the Himalayas
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00:12:11,850 --> 00:12:15,220
that has been carried down
by the Ganges for 1,000 miles
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and dumped on the edge of the Bay of Bengal.
110
00:12:18,430 --> 00:12:24,070
This is the biggest intertidal forest of all,
the Sunderbans, 4,000 square miles of it,
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00:12:24,400 --> 00:12:28,360
and here roam many animals
that usually live in dry-land forests.
112
00:12:29,950 --> 00:12:31,360
Axis deer.
113
00:12:43,590 --> 00:12:46,710
Woodpeckers: The Indian golden-banded.
114
00:12:53,050 --> 00:12:54,600
And wild boar.
115
00:12:58,980 --> 00:13:03,690
But mangrove forests also harbour creatures
that live nowhere else at all.
116
00:13:04,150 --> 00:13:07,980
The proboscis monkey eats
almost nothing but mangrove leaves.
117
00:13:08,280 --> 00:13:11,070
It developed that specialism
on the island of Borneo,
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00:13:11,280 --> 00:13:16,120
and has never spread overseas,
trapped by its own specialised requirements.
119
00:13:23,670 --> 00:13:27,630
Mangroves themselves
are distributed widely through the tropics,
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00:13:27,920 --> 00:13:31,130
for they have evolved
from many different plant families
121
00:13:31,340 --> 00:13:34,760
and today there are
some 40 different species of them.
122
00:13:36,140 --> 00:13:39,890
The flowers of this pioneering mangrove
are pollinated by the wind.
123
00:13:40,180 --> 00:13:44,230
The seed doesn't immediately
leave the parent tree.
124
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It starts to grow while it is still attached,
125
00:13:47,110 --> 00:13:51,820
producing a green shoot a foot long
with a sharp end to it.
126
00:13:54,530 --> 00:13:56,370
If it falls when the tide is in,
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it floats horizontally in the buoyant salt water
128
00:13:59,040 --> 00:14:02,210
and may be carried for miles
before being stranded.
129
00:14:02,460 --> 00:14:08,290
If the tide is out, it stabs the mud
and stays in that position when the tide returns.
130
00:14:08,670 --> 00:14:13,300
It puts out rootlets from the bottom
and leaves from the top,
131
00:14:13,510 --> 00:14:16,510
and within a few days, it's firmly established.
132
00:14:19,060 --> 00:14:21,350
Just as in cold-water estuaries,
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there's a lot of organic matter in this mud.
134
00:14:24,480 --> 00:14:30,440
Because it's so sticky, it isn't stirred up,
so there's little oxygen in it,
135
00:14:30,610 --> 00:14:34,320
and the process of rotting
produces within the mud itself
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an acid, smelly, poisonous chemical:
Hydrogen sulphide.
137
00:14:41,580 --> 00:14:46,420
So these roots don't go down far into the mud.
138
00:14:46,750 --> 00:14:51,460
Instead, they support the trees
by their sheer number.
139
00:14:51,840 --> 00:14:56,180
But what about the other things
that normal roots do for normal trees,
140
00:14:56,380 --> 00:15:01,010
like gathering nutrients and water and oxygen?
141
00:15:01,350 --> 00:15:05,390
Well, these roots
deal with the nutrient problem like this.
142
00:15:12,730 --> 00:15:17,160
It has this cluster of very fine roots
143
00:15:17,360 --> 00:15:21,490
which don't go more than an inch or so
below the surface of the mud,
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00:15:21,700 --> 00:15:26,580
but it is on the surface of the mud
that the bulk of the nutrients are found.
145
00:15:27,170 --> 00:15:31,540
As for water, there's plenty of it here,
but it's salty.
146
00:15:31,790 --> 00:15:38,380
Some mangroves have a special membrane
around the cells in the root hairs
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which filters off the salt.
148
00:15:41,390 --> 00:15:45,850
Others absorb the salt
but then excrete it from the leaves,
149
00:15:46,020 --> 00:15:50,440
or concentrate it in the leaf
and then the leaves are shed.
150
00:15:50,860 --> 00:15:55,740
And oxygen, well, there are
several different solutions to that problem.
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00:15:55,900 --> 00:15:59,860
This mangrove has pores
actually in these prop roots
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which absorb the oxygen directly.
153
00:16:03,740 --> 00:16:06,910
This one has roots
which actually grow upwards,
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so keeping pace with the rising surface
of the accumulating mud.
155
00:16:12,090 --> 00:16:17,340
It's not only plants in the mangrove swamps
that have difficulty in getting oxygen.
156
00:16:17,550 --> 00:16:24,220
So do animals, and this time, low tide,
is a period of particular difficulty.
157
00:16:25,140 --> 00:16:28,180
Many molluscs,
like cockles and mussels elsewhere,
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00:16:28,390 --> 00:16:31,190
shut their shells to keep what moisture they have
159
00:16:31,400 --> 00:16:34,900
and wait for
the food-and-oxygen-bearing water to return.
160
00:16:35,150 --> 00:16:41,660
For them, it's a period of inactivity,
but for other creatures, it's just the opposite.
161
00:16:54,750 --> 00:16:57,130
The mudskipper, of course, is a fish.
162
00:16:57,380 --> 00:16:59,130
There are several different kinds.
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00:16:59,340 --> 00:17:01,590
This one lives near high-water mark,
164
00:17:01,760 --> 00:17:04,760
and is the sort
that spends most time out of water.
165
00:17:05,810 --> 00:17:09,810
It has to keep its skin moist
for it absorbs oxygen through it.
166
00:17:10,020 --> 00:17:13,560
It also keeps its mouth full of water
swilling over its gills.
167
00:17:17,400 --> 00:17:20,570
It feeds on the little crabs that graze on the mud
168
00:17:25,370 --> 00:17:28,660
And having got one,
it needs another mouthful of water.
169
00:17:37,550 --> 00:17:40,670
A second kind lives close to low-water mark,
170
00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:44,050
so it is only out of water
for an hour or so each day.
171
00:17:44,300 --> 00:17:48,350
It sifts the liquid mud
for small crustaceans and worms.
172
00:17:59,360 --> 00:18:02,700
In between these two kinds
lives the largest of the three.
173
00:18:02,950 --> 00:18:07,910
It is a vegetarian, collecting algae
and other microscopic plants from the mud.
174
00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:18,630
And it, too,
nips back every now and then for a wet.
175
00:18:23,300 --> 00:18:25,760
It guards its grazing rights with vigour,
176
00:18:25,970 --> 00:18:27,970
building walls around its territory.
177
00:18:37,770 --> 00:18:40,480
And when neighbours meet, there's trouble.
178
00:18:51,870 --> 00:18:55,830
On clear mud, their territories
form a patchwork of walled ponds.
179
00:18:56,120 --> 00:19:00,460
These flats are very flat,
so when a male starts to advertise for a mate,
180
00:19:00,630 --> 00:19:02,670
he has to be a bit of a gymnast.
181
00:19:15,850 --> 00:19:18,900
When a female is enticed into his private pond,
182
00:19:19,150 --> 00:19:21,520
he can continue his courtship
at close quarters
183
00:19:21,690 --> 00:19:24,110
in a more conventionally fish fashion,
184
00:19:24,320 --> 00:19:29,070
with flexed fins, waggling tail
and enormous excitement.
185
00:20:03,400 --> 00:20:06,240
They'll spawn in a burrow
at the bottom of the pond.
186
00:20:11,070 --> 00:20:14,290
This crab is too big
to be intimidated by mudskippers,
187
00:20:14,450 --> 00:20:17,250
even when it does wander
through their territories.
188
00:20:26,880 --> 00:20:31,890
Its scissoring mouthparts not only
sort out its food but help it to breathe.
189
00:20:32,180 --> 00:20:34,310
On top of its shell, there is a puddle of water,
190
00:20:34,510 --> 00:20:36,180
and as its mouthparts move,
191
00:20:36,350 --> 00:20:39,810
they circulate this into a gill chamber
within the shell,
192
00:20:39,980 --> 00:20:43,110
out again and up to the reservoir on the top.
193
00:20:43,650 --> 00:20:46,150
Eventually, the oxygen in the water
is exhausted
194
00:20:46,320 --> 00:20:50,950
and the crab has to return to the sea,
tip it off and get a fresh supply.
195
00:20:55,080 --> 00:20:59,910
Close by the edge of the sea,
the tiny soldier crabs feed with frantic haste.
196
00:21:00,170 --> 00:21:06,340
No one else will steal their mud,
but they have to eat an enormous quantity
197
00:21:06,500 --> 00:21:09,670
to extract the few particles
necessary to keep alive.
198
00:21:09,970 --> 00:21:14,510
They have to work at it pretty well non-stop
and have no time to waste.
199
00:21:23,900 --> 00:21:26,570
High up, beyond the reach
of all but the highest tides,
200
00:21:26,770 --> 00:21:29,150
lives the large mangrove crab.
201
00:21:29,570 --> 00:21:34,780
It keeps moist by boring its hole
as much as six feet deep to reach water.
202
00:21:35,070 --> 00:21:39,370
The lure that tempts it out
is a newly fallen mangrove leaf.
203
00:21:44,210 --> 00:21:46,000
And quickly back to safety.
204
00:21:50,970 --> 00:21:55,550
Among the air-absorbing roots
of the mangroves, fiddler crabs are busy.
205
00:21:56,010 --> 00:21:58,350
The females collect mud with both pincers,
206
00:21:58,520 --> 00:22:02,390
working with the same frantic speed
as the soldier crabs.
207
00:22:05,060 --> 00:22:07,900
The males need to munch
just as much mud as the females,
208
00:22:08,150 --> 00:22:10,030
but work with one hand only,
209
00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:13,990
for one of their claws is so big
that it is useless for feeding.
210
00:22:16,620 --> 00:22:19,990
They use it instead to wave at passing females.
211
00:22:26,710 --> 00:22:29,920
But it is also a weapon to brandish at rivals.
212
00:22:35,430 --> 00:22:36,680
A less well-equipped male
213
00:22:36,890 --> 00:22:40,600
gets a nasty hammering
even before he can get out of his hole.
214
00:22:52,400 --> 00:22:54,740
The claw is long enough
to reach down into the burrow
215
00:22:54,950 --> 00:22:58,450
to give his opponent a tweak
where he's least expecting it.
216
00:23:06,460 --> 00:23:11,630
The purpose of the wave is to encourage
a female to follow a male into his burrow.
217
00:23:24,980 --> 00:23:29,520
Is it possible perhaps just to take a moment or so
off from munching mud?
218
00:23:33,360 --> 00:23:36,700
At low tide, there's lots for birds
to eat on the mangrove mud,
219
00:23:36,910 --> 00:23:39,780
just as there is on estuaries elsewhere.
220
00:23:40,030 --> 00:23:44,910
Terns hawk for fish that are easier to catch
now in the shallowing waters.
221
00:23:46,750 --> 00:23:49,460
Kingfishers pounce on the fiddler crabs.
222
00:23:57,680 --> 00:24:01,390
Great white heron stalk and stab.
223
00:24:20,320 --> 00:24:24,580
The returning tide
signals "all change" for everyone.
224
00:24:30,290 --> 00:24:33,920
This African mangrove snail
crops the algae growing on the mud,
225
00:24:34,130 --> 00:24:38,880
but it mustn't stay there when the tide comes in,
for it would be attacked by fish.
226
00:24:39,550 --> 00:24:42,010
It takes refuge up in the trees.
227
00:24:42,260 --> 00:24:45,770
Its speediest climb
is barely faster than the rise of the tide,
228
00:24:45,930 --> 00:24:48,430
so it has to set off in good time.
229
00:24:48,850 --> 00:24:53,820
Its internal alarm clock
tells it when it should do so.
230
00:25:07,620 --> 00:25:12,500
The soldier crabs are so well adapted
to their life scavenging on the exposed mud
231
00:25:12,670 --> 00:25:16,420
that they have become breathers of air,
and without it they will drown.
232
00:25:17,340 --> 00:25:21,010
As the tide advances,
each constructs a little igloo
233
00:25:21,180 --> 00:25:25,760
which traps a bubble of air with which the crab
can breathe while the tide is in.
234
00:25:44,490 --> 00:25:50,710
The mudskippers' territorial walls built with such
labour are breached by the incoming wavelets.
235
00:25:54,170 --> 00:25:57,130
Higher up, the mudskippers shelter in burrows.
236
00:26:05,850 --> 00:26:09,850
The incoming tide brings new creatures
into the swamps.
237
00:26:10,100 --> 00:26:16,690
Shoals of fish arrive, searching for morsels
deposited by the river while the tide was out.
238
00:26:21,400 --> 00:26:27,490
In the swamps of South-East Asia, archer fish
feed on insects that have fallen on the surface.
239
00:26:34,670 --> 00:26:39,380
Uniquely, they also have a way
of collecting insects from above the water.
240
00:26:41,590 --> 00:26:43,420
There is a groove in the roof of their mouth,
241
00:26:43,630 --> 00:26:49,060
so that a sudden thrust of the tongue
produces a spurt of droplets like a water pistol.
242
00:26:57,150 --> 00:27:00,980
When there is a crowd,
a marksman can't be sure of getting his prize.
243
00:27:13,750 --> 00:27:17,420
So in company,
it may be better to try a direct assault.
244
00:27:42,070 --> 00:27:45,570
The larger fish are themselves food for otters,
245
00:27:45,820 --> 00:27:48,110
but these hunters have broad appetites
246
00:27:48,280 --> 00:27:53,790
and will enthusiastically tackle snails,
crabs and even mussels.
247
00:28:10,970 --> 00:28:15,930
They are great travellers, swimming for many
miles up into fresh water or down into the sea
248
00:28:16,140 --> 00:28:18,390
and even out to offshore islands,
249
00:28:18,810 --> 00:28:22,070
and they have an enormous appetite for play.
250
00:28:34,410 --> 00:28:39,290
The largest of all living reptiles
is found among mangroves:
251
00:28:39,670 --> 00:28:45,340
The estuarine crocodile,
a monster that grows to 23 feet long.
252
00:29:32,680 --> 00:29:36,350
Like its ancestors that lived
when dinosaurs dominated the earth,
253
00:29:36,510 --> 00:29:38,770
it's an ocean-going creature,
254
00:29:39,020 --> 00:29:43,020
and, as a consequence,
it's the most widely distributed of all crocodiles
255
00:29:43,230 --> 00:29:47,320
living from the Bay of Bengal
through northern Australia to the Pacific,
256
00:29:47,480 --> 00:29:53,320
even reaching isolated mangrove swamps
on the islands of Fiji.
257
00:29:55,070 --> 00:29:58,870
As the mangroves establish themselves
farther out into the sea,
258
00:29:59,040 --> 00:30:02,080
the mudflats they've built grow higher and higher.
259
00:30:02,420 --> 00:30:04,580
Rainwater washes them clean of salt,
260
00:30:04,830 --> 00:30:10,170
and eventually they become dry fertile forest,
beyond the reach of the sea.
261
00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:17,100
The banks of mud and sand
that the rivers lay down around their mouths,
262
00:30:17,260 --> 00:30:19,890
even when they are not big enough
to rise above water,
263
00:30:20,100 --> 00:30:26,770
protect the land against the attacks of the sea,
for tall waves can't travel across shallow water.
264
00:30:27,440 --> 00:30:30,990
But if a current sweeping down the coast
carries away the sediment
265
00:30:31,150 --> 00:30:33,450
and scours the sea floor clean,
266
00:30:33,700 --> 00:30:37,120
then waves arrive at the coast full of power.
267
00:31:06,350 --> 00:31:08,730
Where the land dips steeply into the sea,
268
00:31:08,980 --> 00:31:14,490
the territory between the tides is not miles
across but condensed into a narrow band.
269
00:31:14,900 --> 00:31:21,410
The creatures that live here, like all intertidal
creatures, are threatened by two dangers.
270
00:31:22,160 --> 00:31:26,830
At the high-water mark,
there are physical problems of being dried out,
271
00:31:27,040 --> 00:31:30,250
and at the low-water mark,
there are biological problems
272
00:31:30,420 --> 00:31:35,680
of animals that creep up from the sea
to prey upon the intertidal creatures.
273
00:31:35,880 --> 00:31:38,720
The interplay of those two sets of problems
274
00:31:38,890 --> 00:31:43,220
produces a series of horizontal bands
along the coast,
275
00:31:43,520 --> 00:31:46,270
each dominated by the particular species
276
00:31:46,440 --> 00:31:51,020
which best deals with the problems
at that particular level.
277
00:31:51,360 --> 00:31:55,400
Such bands can be seen on coasts
all over the world,
278
00:31:55,610 --> 00:32:00,620
but here on the north-west coast of America,
they are strikingly clear.
279
00:32:01,330 --> 00:32:03,830
The bottom band of all is only fully exposed
280
00:32:04,000 --> 00:32:08,120
when the moon and the sun
are in such an alignment that they pull together
281
00:32:08,290 --> 00:32:11,710
and the tide withdraws a long way
from the edge of the dry land.
282
00:32:12,460 --> 00:32:16,090
Organisms here only tolerate
a brief exposure to the air
283
00:32:16,340 --> 00:32:20,510
and are unable to prevent themselves
from being dried out.
284
00:32:26,640 --> 00:32:30,860
The sea urchin, in water,
gnaws away at encrusting algae.
285
00:32:33,230 --> 00:32:37,400
But out of water, it can do nothing
but simply hang on to the rocks.
286
00:32:38,200 --> 00:32:41,620
Nearby, giant sea anemones
droop their tentacles,
287
00:32:41,780 --> 00:32:45,330
and many withdraw them,
for in air there is nothing to feed on.
288
00:33:01,890 --> 00:33:05,890
Sea squirts can only filter
for their food spasmodically.
289
00:33:07,480 --> 00:33:12,310
Starfish are meat-eaters,
and this species feeds on mussels.
290
00:33:12,560 --> 00:33:16,730
It envelops them with its adhesive arms,
wrenches apart their shells,
291
00:33:16,900 --> 00:33:18,490
and feeds on the flesh within.
292
00:33:18,900 --> 00:33:23,620
Below low-water mark, they kill any
mussel that tries to establish itself.
293
00:33:23,870 --> 00:33:28,200
But like many of these low-level creatures,
they can't feed out of water.
294
00:33:28,500 --> 00:33:35,000
So higher up, where the rocks are exposed
to air for longer, conditions favour the mussels,
295
00:33:35,170 --> 00:33:36,880
and they form a dense band,
296
00:33:37,090 --> 00:33:41,630
cropped at the lower edge by starfish,
but beyond their reach higher up.
297
00:33:47,970 --> 00:33:52,440
The massed mussels provide shelter
for lots of other creatures:
298
00:33:52,600 --> 00:33:55,770
Small starfish, too small to tackle a mussel,
299
00:33:56,020 --> 00:34:00,780
worms and crustaceans,
winkles and other molluscs.
300
00:34:09,040 --> 00:34:12,170
The mussels hold on to the rocks
with bundles of threads,
301
00:34:12,370 --> 00:34:15,340
but can't withstand the pull of the roughest waves
302
00:34:15,590 --> 00:34:19,130
and in winter storms,
sheets of them may be ripped away.
303
00:34:34,060 --> 00:34:38,360
In more exposed places
where the waves beat with a particular ferocity,
304
00:34:38,610 --> 00:34:44,740
mussels give way to goose-necked barnacles
which clasp the rock with a long fleshy foot.
305
00:34:56,170 --> 00:35:01,880
They feed by holding out stiff, fan-like arms
which catch particles from the waves,
306
00:35:02,090 --> 00:35:06,300
not when they crash in,
but as their waters flow gently back.
307
00:35:27,410 --> 00:35:33,290
On the most exposed promontories,
the mussels are ousted by a plant:
308
00:35:33,580 --> 00:35:35,790
An odd-looking alga known as a sea palm
309
00:35:35,960 --> 00:35:39,710
which lives only
on these north-western coasts of North America.
310
00:35:42,710 --> 00:35:45,260
The crown of leaves
at the top of its rubbery stem
311
00:35:45,430 --> 00:35:52,430
enables the sea palm to harness the power
of the waves and use it to attack the mussels.
312
00:35:52,770 --> 00:35:56,480
The plants, perhaps surprisingly, are annual.
313
00:35:56,770 --> 00:36:02,230
In the spring, an individual plant
may achieve the difficult feat
314
00:36:02,480 --> 00:36:08,160
of getting hold of an individual mussel
in the mussel bed, as this one has done.
315
00:36:09,320 --> 00:36:12,910
When it's mature, it will produce spores,
316
00:36:13,080 --> 00:36:16,870
but only when it's out of water as it is now.
317
00:36:17,210 --> 00:36:23,920
So instead of the spores being distributed widely
as those of other plants are...
318
00:36:24,130 --> 00:36:29,300
...the spores of the sea palm
trickle down the grooves in these leaves
319
00:36:29,510 --> 00:36:32,180
and into the mussel bed here.
320
00:36:33,140 --> 00:36:36,480
When the first storms of the autumn come,
321
00:36:36,940 --> 00:36:43,940
they may catch
underneath the fronds of this plant and rip it up.
322
00:36:44,280 --> 00:36:50,200
But the holdfast grips the mussels so firmly
that the mussels come away with it,
323
00:36:50,370 --> 00:36:51,830
revealing the bare rock,
324
00:36:51,990 --> 00:36:58,120
and that means
that the offspring of other nearby plants
325
00:36:58,290 --> 00:37:01,840
can get a hold on the bare rock.
326
00:37:02,290 --> 00:37:08,760
So by the sacrifice of one palm
growing on a mussel one year,
327
00:37:09,050 --> 00:37:15,890
next year there will be a whole grove of palms
growing firmly on the bedrock.
328
00:37:27,610 --> 00:37:32,990
But mussels do require
a certain amount of immersion every day
329
00:37:33,160 --> 00:37:35,790
if they are not to dry out and die,
330
00:37:36,080 --> 00:37:38,870
and this line marks exactly that.
331
00:37:39,290 --> 00:37:41,750
Above it, no mussel can live.
332
00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:46,340
The creatures that can are these: Barnacles.
333
00:37:47,130 --> 00:37:53,430
Clamped tightly to the rocks, they conserve
very effectively the moisture within their shells.
334
00:37:53,640 --> 00:37:58,060
They collect the minute quantities of food
they require to grow and reproduce
335
00:37:58,220 --> 00:38:01,730
from the relatively infrequent submersions
at high tide,
336
00:38:01,980 --> 00:38:06,730
which in some cases
may only occur for an hour once a month.
337
00:38:33,220 --> 00:38:37,140
So each level on a rocky shore
is dominated by the organisms
338
00:38:37,350 --> 00:38:41,980
that best deal with the precise combination
of pounding by the waves,
339
00:38:42,190 --> 00:38:45,690
exposure to the air,
and attack by deep-water predators.
340
00:38:46,060 --> 00:38:49,110
None, in the long run,
can claim permanent occupation,
341
00:38:49,320 --> 00:38:52,280
for the attacks of the waves are unceasing.
342
00:39:21,890 --> 00:39:26,060
With unfailing accuracy,
the sea picks out the softer parts of the rocks
343
00:39:26,230 --> 00:39:27,940
and cuts its way into them.
344
00:39:28,270 --> 00:39:32,240
Water at great pressure
is driven into joints and cracks
345
00:39:32,400 --> 00:39:36,070
until it penetrates a cliff
and forms a blowhole.
346
00:39:40,660 --> 00:39:46,120
On the southernmost tip of Australia, storms
of great ferocity sweeping up from the south,
347
00:39:46,290 --> 00:39:49,380
with the full force
of the Antarctic gales behind them,
348
00:39:49,630 --> 00:39:57,430
beat away at sandstone cliffs which have lines
of weakness that run horizontally and vertically,
349
00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:00,930
so the rock is cut away in huge blocks.
350
00:40:38,590 --> 00:40:42,430
The sea, having demolished the cliffs,
then works on the debris.
351
00:40:42,680 --> 00:40:46,770
During storms, it picks up the boulders
and hurls them at the cliff face.
352
00:40:47,020 --> 00:40:52,770
At calmer times, it rolls the rocks over the seabed
and casts them up on shingle banks.
353
00:40:53,150 --> 00:40:59,030
Every movement chips and grinds the fragments
until they are reduced to sand grains,
354
00:40:59,360 --> 00:41:04,410
and now even a gentle current can pick them up
and carry them for miles down the coast,
355
00:41:04,620 --> 00:41:07,790
eventually to abandon them in banks and strands
356
00:41:08,000 --> 00:41:11,130
in the lee of islands or in sheltered bays.
357
00:42:27,830 --> 00:42:32,920
Every wave of every tide
stirs up the surface of the sand,
358
00:42:33,170 --> 00:42:40,800
so plants find it impossible to get any grip on it
as they can on rocky shores or mudflats.
359
00:42:41,130 --> 00:42:48,850
So a beach like this looks as lifeless
as any part of the margins of the land.
360
00:42:49,350 --> 00:42:53,600
But if the sand grains
are not too small and compacted,
361
00:42:53,850 --> 00:42:59,150
then each will retain around it
a thin film of moisture even when the tide is out,
362
00:42:59,400 --> 00:43:03,360
and in that microscopic space, animals can live.
363
00:43:06,320 --> 00:43:10,910
These translucent boulders are,
in fact, sand grains,
364
00:43:11,160 --> 00:43:16,540
and the tiny snake-like animal
a worm that could sit on a pinhead.
365
00:43:31,770 --> 00:43:33,810
All these inhabitants of the sand
366
00:43:33,980 --> 00:43:38,650
are, necessarily,
adept at writhing, gliding and crawling
367
00:43:38,860 --> 00:43:45,160
as they search for the few edible fragments
trapped between grains, or pursue one another.
368
00:43:57,630 --> 00:44:03,090
This one is only a temporary lodger in the sand.
It is the larva of a mollusc.
369
00:44:07,760 --> 00:44:11,470
A hydra lives here. It's like the one
that's common in freshwater ponds,
370
00:44:11,640 --> 00:44:15,770
but it has one elongated tentacle
with which it anchors itself.
371
00:44:17,810 --> 00:44:21,730
A nematode worm produces glue
from a gland on its tail
372
00:44:21,900 --> 00:44:24,320
which helps it to maintain its position.
373
00:44:33,540 --> 00:44:37,500
This is another larva that at the
beginning of its life floats in the sea
374
00:44:37,710 --> 00:44:41,290
but settles down into the sand
to continue its development.
375
00:44:41,920 --> 00:44:45,470
It builds a tiny tube of mucus
which it carries about with it
376
00:44:45,630 --> 00:44:48,550
and clings to with bristles on its flanks.
377
00:44:57,770 --> 00:45:02,940
When it grows up, it does the same thing
on a larger scale, above the sand.
378
00:45:03,320 --> 00:45:05,900
It's a worm called the sand mason.
379
00:45:07,780 --> 00:45:11,530
Now it not only builds a tube,
but it adds long tassels to the top.
380
00:45:11,780 --> 00:45:15,750
These slow down the water
so that suspended food particles fall
381
00:45:15,910 --> 00:45:18,290
and can be gathered by the waving tentacles.
382
00:45:19,080 --> 00:45:22,420
The tubes need constant renewal,
383
00:45:22,630 --> 00:45:27,880
and this is how the sand mason does it,
speeded up 125 times.
384
00:46:12,220 --> 00:46:15,850
Although plants can't grow
on these perpetually moving sands,
385
00:46:16,140 --> 00:46:21,020
those dislodged from the rocky parts of the coast
by waves are washed up here,
386
00:46:21,390 --> 00:46:24,810
and there are plenty of creatures
on the beach waiting for them.
387
00:46:37,790 --> 00:46:39,660
These are sand-hoppers.
388
00:46:39,910 --> 00:46:44,040
They hide below the surface
to avoid being baked and dried out by the sun,
389
00:46:44,290 --> 00:46:46,670
but now there is food to be had.
390
00:47:04,060 --> 00:47:06,860
On many beaches, their numbers are astronomic.
391
00:47:07,150 --> 00:47:13,030
There can be as many as 25,000 of them
in one square yard of beach sand.
392
00:47:26,130 --> 00:47:29,300
The sand-hoppers favour rotting vegetation.
393
00:47:29,960 --> 00:47:33,300
Rotting flesh attracts crabs.
394
00:47:42,100 --> 00:47:46,400
The remains of a squid
is a banquet for ghost crabs.
395
00:48:08,250 --> 00:48:11,500
Occasionally, when there is a chance,
it may be better to cut off a length
396
00:48:11,670 --> 00:48:15,300
and haul it away
to consume it in the privacy of a burrow.
397
00:48:20,220 --> 00:48:23,850
The crabs and the shrimps
live close to the high-tide mark.
398
00:48:24,100 --> 00:48:28,770
The incoming waters
bring with them another team of scavengers.
399
00:48:30,440 --> 00:48:35,950
This periscope on a South African beach
belongs to a mollusc: A plough snail.
400
00:48:41,200 --> 00:48:45,040
It inflates its plough-like foot
by pumping in water,
401
00:48:45,290 --> 00:48:49,580
and it uses it not so much as a ploughshare
as a surfboard.
402
00:48:50,130 --> 00:48:55,760
The waters pick it up and wash it swiftly inshore,
together with its potential food...
403
00:48:59,430 --> 00:49:01,050
...a stranded jellyfish.
404
00:49:10,730 --> 00:49:15,780
The plough snails detect its presence
from the taste of decay in the surrounding water
405
00:49:15,990 --> 00:49:18,490
and advance on it with great speed.
406
00:49:56,780 --> 00:50:01,240
To avoid being swept up the beach
and being stranded, they eat fast,
407
00:50:01,410 --> 00:50:05,950
and then, while there is some food left,
they burrow into the sand.
408
00:50:06,540 --> 00:50:08,580
There they wait for the tide to turn
409
00:50:08,750 --> 00:50:13,500
so that they can ride back on their surfboards
to deeper water and safety.
410
00:50:20,680 --> 00:50:26,140
Very few sea creatures venture
above the limit of the highest tide and survive.
411
00:50:26,470 --> 00:50:31,640
One group of animals is compelled to do so
by the nature of their ancestry,
412
00:50:31,850 --> 00:50:37,280
and on this one beach in Costa Rica,
they stage an astonishing invasion.
413
00:50:38,740 --> 00:50:40,070
Turtles.
414
00:50:40,610 --> 00:50:45,620
They are Ridleys, the smallest of
the sea-going turtles, only a couple of feet long.
415
00:50:46,620 --> 00:50:49,160
Turtles are descended from land-living reptiles,
416
00:50:49,370 --> 00:50:54,380
and, like all reptiles,
they lay eggs that only develop and hatch in air.
417
00:50:54,630 --> 00:51:00,630
Every year, adult females,
having mated at sea, must move onto dry land.
418
00:51:05,720 --> 00:51:10,140
They arrive at a rate of up to 5,000 an hour.
419
00:51:10,600 --> 00:51:15,310
They use only one or two of the thousands
of beaches that seem to be suitable.
420
00:51:15,560 --> 00:51:19,980
What is more, they only choose to do so
on just a few nights in the year
421
00:51:20,190 --> 00:51:22,320
between August and November.
422
00:51:30,370 --> 00:51:32,460
Efficient though their flippers are in water,
423
00:51:32,660 --> 00:51:36,920
they are barely strong enough
to lift the turtle clear of the sand.
424
00:51:37,170 --> 00:51:39,590
It has to drag itself up the beach.
425
00:51:41,590 --> 00:51:45,140
This mass breeding
may be an advantage to the turtle.
426
00:51:45,300 --> 00:51:48,010
Since it only occurs on a few nights a year,
427
00:51:48,350 --> 00:51:51,980
their eggs can't support
a large permanent population of predators,
428
00:51:52,270 --> 00:51:55,480
as they might
if the turtles were to lay over several months.
429
00:51:56,230 --> 00:51:59,360
Yet, even so,
for reasons that we still don't understand,
430
00:51:59,650 --> 00:52:05,450
less than one in a hundred of the eggs
produces a hatchling which reaches the sea.
431
00:52:06,570 --> 00:52:09,530
Each female lays a hundred or so.
432
00:52:23,300 --> 00:52:26,300
That done, she carefully fills in the hole.
433
00:52:44,650 --> 00:52:49,200
A few coatimundi and vultures
come down from the forest to plunder,
434
00:52:49,450 --> 00:52:52,990
but they make little impact
on the millions of eggs that are laid.
435
00:53:01,750 --> 00:53:05,840
Next night, many thousands more Ridleys arrive.
436
00:53:14,770 --> 00:53:20,770
On other beaches, more secretly,
other very different turtles are laying.
437
00:53:22,690 --> 00:53:29,860
This is the largest of all the marine turtles.
438
00:53:30,160 --> 00:53:35,200
This magnificent creature
is the giant leatherback turtle.
439
00:53:35,450 --> 00:53:38,290
And it's a most mysterious animal.
440
00:53:38,670 --> 00:53:42,090
It's a solitary wanderer of the oceans.
441
00:53:42,420 --> 00:53:49,010
Individuals turn up almost anywhere in the tropics
but they go much farther than that.
442
00:53:49,380 --> 00:53:52,220
They've been recorded as far south as Argentina,
443
00:53:52,430 --> 00:53:55,890
and as far north as the British Isles
and North America.
444
00:53:56,270 --> 00:54:00,230
It's a creature of mystery,
because although we know what it feeds on,
445
00:54:00,440 --> 00:54:07,440
which is sea urchins and fish and, oddly enough,
jellyfish, we know little else about it.
446
00:54:07,690 --> 00:54:12,620
We don't know how long they live.
We don't know how the male finds females.
447
00:54:12,870 --> 00:54:19,540
We don't know how females navigate
to find nesting sites like this one.
448
00:54:19,790 --> 00:54:25,840
Indeed we didn't know where
the main nesting sites were until 25 years ago.
449
00:54:26,050 --> 00:54:31,890
Then it was discovered that some nested
on the Suriname coast of South America
450
00:54:32,140 --> 00:54:36,140
and some nested here,
on the east coast of Malaysia.
451
00:54:36,510 --> 00:54:40,850
Of course, the people here
have always known about the turtles
452
00:54:41,020 --> 00:54:44,270
and have always plundered those eggs.
453
00:54:44,520 --> 00:54:48,650
Today, however,
there are more people than ever here,
454
00:54:48,940 --> 00:54:52,820
and the eggs are plundered more seriously,
455
00:54:52,990 --> 00:54:58,580
so undoubtedly, this huge
and extraordinary creature is in danger.
456
00:54:59,620 --> 00:55:05,380
But maybe the leatherback turtle has
other breeding grounds that we don't know about.
457
00:55:05,590 --> 00:55:11,670
Maybe it goes to small, tiny coral islands
in the emptiness of the ocean
458
00:55:11,840 --> 00:55:15,350
to find beaches far away from man.
44564
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