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These mountains stand in the middle
of the biggest desert on earth, the Sahara.
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It stretches right across the width of Africa,
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three and a half million square miles of it.
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00:02:07,630 --> 00:02:11,460
At night, it gets so cold that it can freeze.
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00:02:11,670 --> 00:02:15,380
During the day, the sun strikes it so ferociously
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that the highest land temperatures
ever recorded were measured here:
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58 degrees centigrade,
137 degrees Fahrenheit.
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And, in turn, those oven-like temperatures
rob the land of all its moisture.
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All in all, there could hardly be
a more hostile environment for life on earth.
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00:02:36,570 --> 00:02:38,450
But it wasn't always this way.
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00:02:40,490 --> 00:02:43,200
And if you want evidence of that, here it is.
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00:02:48,920 --> 00:02:51,550
A group of antelope, probably sable.
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00:02:51,800 --> 00:02:54,920
Creatures that can't live
anywhere in the Sahara today,
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because there's simply
not enough vegetation for them.
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These aren't the only wild animals
painted on these rocks.
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00:03:05,350 --> 00:03:06,730
A giraffe.
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00:03:09,230 --> 00:03:12,070
A kind of wild goat, probably a moufflon.
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And antelope.
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00:03:14,400 --> 00:03:18,990
Obviously, at the time these pictures
were painted, there was good grazing here.
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00:03:19,950 --> 00:03:25,290
Indeed, there was sufficient vegetation
to sustain not only wild animals,
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00:03:25,450 --> 00:03:27,710
but whole herds of cattle.
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We don't know exactly who drew these pictures.
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The artists may have been
ancestors of the nomads
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00:03:34,630 --> 00:03:40,640
who today follow their herds of long-horned
piebald cattle just south of the Sahara.
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00:03:41,050 --> 00:03:44,560
But we know what they looked like,
because they left their portraits.
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00:03:44,970 --> 00:03:47,890
They lived here, it seems, some 5,000 years ago.
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But eventually the rains began to fail,
the pastures disappeared,
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and with it the cattle and their keepers.
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00:03:54,980 --> 00:03:58,820
But there are one or two living survivors
from that time.
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00:04:01,870 --> 00:04:06,700
This ancient cypress, judging from
the number of rings in the trunks of others like it
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00:04:07,040 --> 00:04:10,620
is probably between 2,000 and 3,000 years old.
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00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:17,090
In fact, it was probably already growing here
when the last paintings were being made.
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It still bears fertile seed,
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00:04:19,680 --> 00:04:23,300
but there are no little seedlings
growing here to replace it.
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The land now is far too dry for them.
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00:04:27,100 --> 00:04:29,310
Indeed, the cypress itself only survives
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00:04:29,480 --> 00:04:35,020
because it sends its huge roots
deep into the ground to tap underground water.
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00:04:36,110 --> 00:04:39,490
The drying out of the Sahara
seems to be connected
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00:04:39,650 --> 00:04:44,070
with the great changes in climate
at the end of the last ice age.
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00:04:44,410 --> 00:04:48,080
As the glaciers
retreated northwards across Europe,
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00:04:48,330 --> 00:04:51,540
so the rains that fell regularly
along their southern edge
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00:04:51,750 --> 00:04:57,960
left Africa and moved up into Europe,
and the Sahara was robbed of its rains.
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00:04:58,380 --> 00:05:04,470
Indeed, it seems that most of the world's
great deserts were formed around that time,
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00:05:04,640 --> 00:05:09,390
and most, if not all of them,
are therefore comparatively recent environments.
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To see why deserts lie where they do,
we can look at the Sahara from the west.
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00:05:16,190 --> 00:05:20,440
The equator runs away from us
across the width of Africa.
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00:05:20,900 --> 00:05:25,370
It's along this line
that the sun's rays strike from directly overhead,
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00:05:25,530 --> 00:05:28,160
and therefore with the greatest strength.
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00:05:28,660 --> 00:05:30,620
The heated air rises along the equator
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00:05:30,790 --> 00:05:34,580
and flows away, north and south,
to cooler parts of the world.
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00:05:34,880 --> 00:05:38,420
Because it's warm, it carries a lot of moisture.
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00:05:38,670 --> 00:05:43,680
But as it rises and cools,
the moisture condenses first to form clouds
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00:05:43,880 --> 00:05:45,590
and then to fall as rain.
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00:05:45,970 --> 00:05:51,430
When the air comes down again over the Sahara
to the left and the Kalahari to the right,
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00:05:51,730 --> 00:05:55,850
it's lost most of its moisture
and creates few clouds.
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00:05:56,440 --> 00:05:59,440
The Sahara,
with few clouds to shield it from the sun,
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00:05:59,650 --> 00:06:02,400
becomes roastingly hot during the day.
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00:06:02,780 --> 00:06:08,830
And at night, with no blanket of clouds
to keep in its warmth, it gets desperately cold.
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00:06:09,620 --> 00:06:13,410
Deserts are not placed
symmetrically around the world,
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00:06:13,620 --> 00:06:17,790
because the continents themselves
are distributed in a very irregular way.
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00:06:18,040 --> 00:06:23,050
They're ridged with great mountain ranges,
which interfere with the even flow of air,
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00:06:23,260 --> 00:06:27,430
and the planet's spin
creates vast eddies in the atmosphere,
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00:06:27,720 --> 00:06:29,430
which further complicates things.
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00:06:29,850 --> 00:06:35,100
But even so, deserts do lie
in two broad zones on either side of the equator.
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00:06:35,810 --> 00:06:38,900
The pattern in Africa, with the Sahara in the north
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and the Kalahari and the Namib in the south,
has its equivalent in the Americas.
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00:06:46,030 --> 00:06:49,320
South of the lush equatorial jungles
of the Amazon,
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00:06:49,570 --> 00:06:54,540
beyond the great range of the Andes,
lies the Atacama desert.
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00:06:54,910 --> 00:07:00,130
On the other side of the equator, beyond
the drenched tropical rainforests of Panama,
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00:07:00,460 --> 00:07:03,550
stretch the deserts of Mexico and Arizona.
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00:07:05,090 --> 00:07:09,140
Across the Pacific,
the greatest expanse of water on the globe,
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00:07:09,430 --> 00:07:15,230
lies, south of the equator, Australia,
most of which is covered by desert.
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00:07:15,600 --> 00:07:20,650
Its northern tip gets close enough to the equator
to collect some rain.
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00:07:20,980 --> 00:07:22,520
Farther north still,
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00:07:22,730 --> 00:07:27,150
beyond the jungle that blankets
Indonesia and Malaysia, Thailand and Burma,
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00:07:27,400 --> 00:07:30,570
across the great snow-covered range
of the Himalayas,
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00:07:30,910 --> 00:07:35,870
stretch the vast deserts
of central Asia: Mongolia and the Gobi.
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00:07:36,540 --> 00:07:39,540
Beyond them,
as we complete the circuit of the globe,
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00:07:39,750 --> 00:07:44,380
the huge desert of the Middle East
that covers Iran, Iraq and Jordan,
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00:07:44,630 --> 00:07:48,930
Syria and Israel,
the vast sandy emptiness of Arabia,
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00:07:49,130 --> 00:07:52,050
and runs on to join the Sahara.
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00:07:58,980 --> 00:08:03,320
This is the biggest expanse
of waterless land on earth.
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00:08:03,820 --> 00:08:09,490
Here, as in deserts everywhere,
almost nothing moves during the heat of the day.
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But animals are here.
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00:08:25,210 --> 00:08:27,210
If you want to see what made these tracks,
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you have to wait until the sun sinks
and the desert begins to cool.
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00:08:41,020 --> 00:08:46,610
A striped hyena, one of the commonest of
the bigger desert animals in this part of the world.
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A fennec fox.
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00:09:08,050 --> 00:09:13,680
Fennecs usually live in small family groups,
and clearly enjoy one another's company.
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00:09:22,730 --> 00:09:26,400
But there's not much time for frolicking.
Food must be found.
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00:09:26,730 --> 00:09:32,070
Faint smells from the sand tell them
who has moved where since they were last out.
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00:10:02,430 --> 00:10:05,850
As the moon rises,
many more creatures emerge.
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00:10:06,690 --> 00:10:09,190
A gecko. Just what the fennec wants.
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00:10:21,620 --> 00:10:25,710
Ajerboa.
It, too, is looking for food. Seeds.
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00:10:34,840 --> 00:10:37,890
Another little seed-eating rodent, a gerbil.
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00:10:41,350 --> 00:10:47,400
And a caracal, a kind of cat, which loves
both gerbils and jerboas, if it can get them.
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00:11:04,200 --> 00:11:08,420
A smaller hunter,
but nonetheless a deadly one: A scorpion.
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00:11:08,920 --> 00:11:11,710
It is searching for beetles or other small insects
99
00:11:11,920 --> 00:11:14,840
But sometimes the hunter becomes the hunted.
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00:11:15,340 --> 00:11:20,260
A black widow spider has set
her snare of silk underneath a thorn bush.
101
00:12:01,800 --> 00:12:06,180
In the intense struggle,
the black widow loses one of her legs.
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She manages to get more ropes of silk
around the scorpion, hampering it still further.
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00:12:28,040 --> 00:12:31,960
The scorpion hangs on to its trophy,
but to no purpose.
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00:12:32,210 --> 00:12:33,920
The battle is as good as lost.
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Methodically, the spider trusses up her victim
and hangs it in her larder.
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00:12:58,400 --> 00:13:02,990
Wolves, perhaps surprisingly, are quite common
in these Middle Eastern deserts,
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00:13:03,200 --> 00:13:05,990
but they're not like those farther north.
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00:13:06,240 --> 00:13:10,210
They're smaller, lighter-coloured,
and with only the thinnest fur,
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00:13:10,500 --> 00:13:13,040
and they scavenge as much as they hunt.
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00:13:17,750 --> 00:13:21,170
The cool night is coming to an end.
Hunting is over.
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00:13:21,380 --> 00:13:24,260
The animals must go back to their dens
and hiding places
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to shelter from the heat that is to come.
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00:13:50,080 --> 00:13:55,420
The sun returns, and very soon
the desert will be heating up once again.
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The mammals that were active
during the night have to find shelter.
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00:13:59,800 --> 00:14:01,920
The day belongs not to them,
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00:14:02,090 --> 00:14:07,220
but to creatures that get their heat
directly from the sun: Reptiles.
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00:14:07,470 --> 00:14:11,270
This is the desert
of the American west in Arizona,
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and we've come here to look
at one very special desert reptile: This one.
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This is the Gila monster,
one of only two poisonous lizards in the world.
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00:14:31,080 --> 00:14:35,120
Actually, he very seldom
uses his poison in defence,
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and it's still quite early in the morning
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and he is so cold that he isn't very active.
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But in only about an hour, the desert will
get so hot that he won't be able to stand it,
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and he, too, will have to seek shade.
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00:14:51,930 --> 00:14:56,310
So in this short period of the early morning
and in the cool of the evening
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is the time when he hunts.
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A tortoise, but he's far too big
and well-armoured for a Gila monster to tackle.
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This great nest of sticks,
however, looks much more promising.
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The victim: A desert mouse.
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00:16:08,090 --> 00:16:12,760
The tortoise is on the lookout for food, too,
but it is a vegetarian.
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00:16:31,070 --> 00:16:33,740
The day is now several hours old.
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Cool dawn is changing to baking noon.
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00:16:37,330 --> 00:16:40,710
It's time for even a reptile to get out of the sun
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Movement generates heat,
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00:16:50,130 --> 00:16:54,350
so now nothing moves unless it absolutely has to.
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And there are some creatures
that remain motionless
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even when you get within a few inches of them.
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One of them is on the ground
right in front of me now,
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though you may find it difficult to see
because it's so well camouflaged.
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00:17:10,610 --> 00:17:13,490
It's a poorwill, a kind of nightjar.
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00:17:18,620 --> 00:17:23,040
Fluttering the throat evaporates moisture
from the mouth and so cools the bird.
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It consumes much less energy
than heaving the chest and panting,
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as many mammals would do in this situation.
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00:17:31,010 --> 00:17:33,680
The sand grouse
of Africa uses the same trick.
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The sand grouse chicks start doing it
almost as soon as they emerge from the shell.
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They also immediately peck for seeds,
but there's little moisture in a seed,
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and unless they drink, they will die.
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00:17:59,290 --> 00:18:03,500
The responsibility for providing that
rests entirely with the male.
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Every day he flies to water,
maybe as much as 25 miles from the nest.
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00:18:10,050 --> 00:18:13,180
First he fills his own stomach with water.
151
00:18:18,600 --> 00:18:22,730
But then, very deliberately,
he soaks his belly feathers.
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00:18:27,770 --> 00:18:30,480
These feathers have a special spongy structure
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so that they can absorb lots of water.
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00:18:33,530 --> 00:18:37,780
Once he has a full load, he flies back to his family.
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At last the chicks get their drink.
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00:18:51,460 --> 00:18:55,550
No other bird
has such an ingenious water-carrying device.
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The roadrunner of the American deserts
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provides water for its chicks quite differently.
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00:19:11,780 --> 00:19:15,400
This parent bird
has collected a cicada for its family.
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00:19:17,110 --> 00:19:19,320
Its nest is in a cholla cactus.
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The parent doesn't give its chicks
their food immediately.
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00:19:30,130 --> 00:19:32,210
The chick is gulping.
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00:19:32,420 --> 00:19:37,090
The parent bird is producing liquid from
its stomach and letting it trickle down its beak.
164
00:19:43,850 --> 00:19:46,310
Each youngster gets its share.
165
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Another ration of solid food. This time, a lizard.
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00:20:17,590 --> 00:20:21,470
Each time, before the meal is handed over,
the chicks get a drink,
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whether they like it or not.
168
00:20:35,860 --> 00:20:39,950
During the day, the parents sit on the nest,
not to keep the chicks warm,
169
00:20:40,110 --> 00:20:43,660
but, on the contrary,
to keep them cool by shading them.
170
00:20:43,990 --> 00:20:46,120
The bird not only flutters its throat,
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00:20:46,290 --> 00:20:50,670
but protects itself from the sun
by using its tail as a parasol.
172
00:20:55,340 --> 00:20:59,090
The ground squirrel
of the Namib desert does the same thing,
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and very effectively, too,
carefully angling itself as far as possible
174
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to keep its body in the shade.
175
00:21:17,820 --> 00:21:20,860
Many animals
keep their blood cool with radiators.
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00:21:21,110 --> 00:21:25,870
The hedgehog that lives in the desert
of the Middle East has unusually large ears.
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00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:29,330
Blood circulates through capillaries
close to the surface of the skin
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00:21:29,540 --> 00:21:31,620
and is cooled by the breeze.
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00:21:39,510 --> 00:21:42,840
The fennec fox's huge ears
serve the same purpose.
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00:21:45,930 --> 00:21:47,810
So do those of the American jackrabbit,
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which perhaps has the biggest ears of all
in proportion to its body.
182
00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:02,150
The dorcas gazelle also has radiator ears
183
00:22:02,320 --> 00:22:05,280
and is one of the best-adapted
desert mammals.
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00:22:05,490 --> 00:22:09,240
It's one of few
that can survive without drinking at all.
185
00:22:09,540 --> 00:22:12,750
It gets all the liquid it needs from vegetation.
186
00:22:15,620 --> 00:22:21,800
It doesn't waste liquid as urine,
but gets rid of its uric acid as small dry pellets
187
00:22:39,610 --> 00:22:44,200
It's now approaching noon,
the hottest time of the day.
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00:22:44,400 --> 00:22:47,320
It's summer, the hottest time of the year,
189
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and I'm in one of the hottest places on earth:
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Death Valley in the western United States.
191
00:22:55,120 --> 00:23:01,800
A thermometer on the ground here
has risen to 201 degrees Fahrenheit.
192
00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:05,550
That's about 94 degrees centigrade.
193
00:23:05,800 --> 00:23:11,140
It's so hot that no creature
can survive permanently out here.
194
00:23:11,350 --> 00:23:15,730
Even at the edge of these sand flats,
where the ground is more broken,
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00:23:15,940 --> 00:23:19,610
there is no sign of animal life whatever.
196
00:23:20,020 --> 00:23:26,400
All animals now have sought the shade
and shelter from this ferocious sun.
197
00:23:26,650 --> 00:23:30,570
But some organisms can't get out of the sun.
198
00:23:31,580 --> 00:23:34,040
Plants, being fixed to the ground,
199
00:23:34,200 --> 00:23:39,630
have to stay out in the heat of the day
and simply endure.
200
00:23:39,960 --> 00:23:43,750
But all of them
have special devices to help them to do so.
201
00:23:44,050 --> 00:23:49,220
The desert holly. Its leaves grow
at about 70 degrees to the vertical,
202
00:23:49,590 --> 00:23:55,140
so that in the morning when it's less hot
and in the evening when the plant needs light,
203
00:23:55,310 --> 00:23:58,520
the face of its leaves face the light.
204
00:23:58,730 --> 00:24:04,570
During the middle of the day, it shows
only the edges and doesn't heat up so much.
205
00:24:05,110 --> 00:24:10,570
Not only that, but the plant
extracts salt from the salt-laden ground
206
00:24:10,780 --> 00:24:14,540
and excretes it as a white coating on the leaf,
207
00:24:14,700 --> 00:24:19,120
which, like the white costume of an athlete,
reflects the heat
208
00:24:19,290 --> 00:24:22,000
and so keeps the plant that much cooler.
209
00:24:22,750 --> 00:24:25,170
And this, the creosote bush.
210
00:24:26,590 --> 00:24:30,720
This is one of the most widespread of plants
in American deserts,
211
00:24:31,010 --> 00:24:37,060
and its roots are better at extracting
the last molecule of water from parched sands
212
00:24:37,270 --> 00:24:40,020
than those of any other American plant.
213
00:24:40,310 --> 00:24:45,150
This has led to an extraordinary state of affairs
that's only just been discovered.
214
00:24:46,190 --> 00:24:50,030
It seems that the creosote bush
was the first plant to establish itself
215
00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:54,330
in the arid Mojave desert
when the desert first appeared.
216
00:24:54,660 --> 00:24:57,830
Once it had established its extensive root system,
217
00:24:58,040 --> 00:25:01,620
it extracted moisture
from the sand so efficiently
218
00:25:01,790 --> 00:25:06,170
that it was extremely difficult
for any other plant to grow alongside it.
219
00:25:06,500 --> 00:25:12,510
And that applied not only to any other
kind of plant but also to its own seedlings.
220
00:25:14,100 --> 00:25:20,100
So an individual creosote bush
tended to spread not by setting seeds
221
00:25:20,310 --> 00:25:22,020
and producing a new generation,
222
00:25:22,230 --> 00:25:26,900
but by sending out new stems around its base.
223
00:25:27,270 --> 00:25:32,320
And as these spread outwards,
so the stems in the middle tended to die away,
224
00:25:32,660 --> 00:25:37,030
and the bush grew into a ring shape like this.
225
00:25:37,240 --> 00:25:43,290
So these are not separate
individual creosote bushes, as it might appear,
226
00:25:43,460 --> 00:25:49,130
but this is just
one big ring-shaped individual plant.
227
00:25:50,670 --> 00:25:55,430
Over the centuries,
the rings widened and changed their shape
228
00:25:55,590 --> 00:26:01,230
until now some are over 25 yards across,
like this one.
229
00:26:02,350 --> 00:26:08,730
Of course, the individual stems and leaves
of this plant are not very ancient.
230
00:26:09,030 --> 00:26:14,950
The first ones to grow, which appeared
in the middle, decayed and disappeared long ago.
231
00:26:15,160 --> 00:26:19,200
Now it's estimated
that this plant began growing
232
00:26:19,410 --> 00:26:22,710
between 10,000 and 12,000 years ago,
233
00:26:22,960 --> 00:26:26,670
in fact, when the Mojave desert first appeared,
234
00:26:26,880 --> 00:26:32,010
and that makes it the oldest known
living organism in the world.
235
00:26:37,600 --> 00:26:42,980
In the Mojave, the plants may have to survive
for as long as ten years without rain,
236
00:26:43,230 --> 00:26:47,900
but if rain falls a little more frequently,
as it does nearby in Arizona,
237
00:26:48,060 --> 00:26:51,150
plants can have different survival strategies.
238
00:26:52,280 --> 00:26:57,070
To many of us,
the very symbol of the desert is the cactus.
239
00:26:57,280 --> 00:27:03,450
But in fact, this family of fleshy-stemmed
plants lives only in the Americas.
240
00:27:03,700 --> 00:27:09,250
There are several hundred species of them,
but among the biggest is the saguaro.
241
00:27:11,380 --> 00:27:13,670
The saguaro has solved the problems
242
00:27:13,840 --> 00:27:18,930
of surviving in great heat and drought
very successfully indeed.
243
00:27:19,510 --> 00:27:25,390
Its stem is pleated like an accordion,
so when rain does fall, the cactus can expand
244
00:27:25,600 --> 00:27:29,610
and quickly absorb as much water as possible
before it disappears.
245
00:27:29,980 --> 00:27:34,990
After a single storm, a saguaro
can take up as much as a ton in a few days.
246
00:27:36,900 --> 00:27:38,860
Its leaves have become thorns,
247
00:27:39,070 --> 00:27:44,290
so reducing the surface area from which
the plant might lose water by evaporation.
248
00:27:44,580 --> 00:27:49,130
The stem itself is green
and has taken over the job of photosynthesis.
249
00:27:49,420 --> 00:27:52,090
The thorns protect the young plant from browsers,
250
00:27:52,290 --> 00:27:58,300
but they also break up the wind currents,
so that the cactus is wrapped in still air,
251
00:27:58,590 --> 00:28:02,300
and evaporation of moisture
from the stem is kept very low.
252
00:28:03,850 --> 00:28:10,730
These huge saguaro cacti can live
for over 200 years and stand nearly 50 feet high.
253
00:28:18,240 --> 00:28:21,240
If I was dying of thirst in this desert,
254
00:28:21,450 --> 00:28:27,250
I'd be tempted to cut inside that saguaro
and raid its reservoir of water.
255
00:28:27,410 --> 00:28:32,960
But that would probably be a mistake, because
the water in the saguaro contains a poison.
256
00:28:33,250 --> 00:28:38,840
But there are lots of desert-living plants
which do have drinkable water within them,
257
00:28:39,050 --> 00:28:43,680
and desert-living people all over the world
have become expert botanists,
258
00:28:43,850 --> 00:28:48,730
able to recognise
from just the tiniest little leaflet or straggling
259
00:28:48,890 --> 00:28:50,900
where they can get a good drink.
260
00:28:53,980 --> 00:28:58,110
None are more skilled
than the Bushman people of the Kalahari.
261
00:29:12,210 --> 00:29:16,170
By the end of the dry season,
all their water holes have usually dried up.
262
00:29:16,460 --> 00:29:20,340
For liquid, they must now
rely almost entirely on plants
263
00:29:20,510 --> 00:29:23,260
and their ability to recognise the right ones.
264
00:29:33,150 --> 00:29:36,650
This tuber is a kind
that provides good drinking water.
265
00:29:47,410 --> 00:29:49,790
This much larger one is also full of liquid,
266
00:29:50,000 --> 00:29:53,290
but, unfortunately,
it's so bitter, it's undrinkable.
267
00:29:53,750 --> 00:29:55,750
But it's worth having nonetheless.
268
00:29:59,760 --> 00:30:02,880
To extract the water,
the root must be grated and pulped.
269
00:30:35,620 --> 00:30:38,170
The bigger root is grated as well.
270
00:30:43,670 --> 00:30:47,390
Drier though it is, it still contains valuable flu
271
00:30:53,850 --> 00:30:57,860
Since it cannot be drunk,
people use it to moisten their skin,
272
00:30:58,060 --> 00:31:02,150
and as it evaporates,
it brings a delicious refreshing coolness.
273
00:31:23,510 --> 00:31:25,550
200 miles west of the Kalahari
274
00:31:25,760 --> 00:31:29,350
lies an even hotter, drier desert: The Namib.
275
00:31:29,930 --> 00:31:33,720
Very few plants indeed
can survive in these parched sands.
276
00:31:34,310 --> 00:31:39,110
Patches of grass sprouted
after a rare shower and lived for a few weeks,
277
00:31:39,400 --> 00:31:44,440
but that was over four years ago
and now only the dusty withered stems are left.
278
00:31:44,900 --> 00:31:48,530
There is one plant that grows here, though,
and nowhere else,
279
00:31:48,820 --> 00:31:51,280
and one that is very odd indeed.
280
00:31:54,830 --> 00:31:59,710
The scientist who first described
this extraordinary plant
281
00:31:59,880 --> 00:32:05,300
was an Austrian called Dr Welwitsch,
who came here in the last century.
282
00:32:05,630 --> 00:32:10,340
He discovered many plants in Africa,
but this perhaps is his most famous
283
00:32:10,510 --> 00:32:14,020
and the one that bears his name: Welwitschia.
284
00:32:14,350 --> 00:32:16,850
There are male plants and female plants.
285
00:32:17,270 --> 00:32:21,560
This one is a female,
and these are the female's structures.
286
00:32:21,900 --> 00:32:24,320
These are young ones, which sprouted this year,
287
00:32:24,480 --> 00:32:27,320
and these are
fully developed ones from last year.
288
00:32:27,610 --> 00:32:32,780
In structure, they are very
like the cones of a fir tree.
289
00:32:35,620 --> 00:32:39,580
The male plant has growths
rather like stamens, which produce pollen,
290
00:32:39,790 --> 00:32:43,880
so welwitschia seems to be
a kind of link between coniferous trees
291
00:32:44,050 --> 00:32:46,380
and true flowering plants.
292
00:32:49,840 --> 00:32:52,930
But the oddest thing about it are its leaves.
293
00:32:53,180 --> 00:32:58,770
They grow from the top of its central trunk,
and do so extremely slowly,
294
00:32:58,930 --> 00:33:03,940
so that this leaf would have taken
about 70 years to be produced.
295
00:33:04,150 --> 00:33:09,150
But if it hadn't frayed at the edges,
it would be about 400 yards long,
296
00:33:09,360 --> 00:33:15,280
because this individual plant
is thought to be about 1,500 years old.
297
00:33:18,120 --> 00:33:23,670
It's these amazing leaves that enable the plant
to collect water in this rainless country.
298
00:33:24,040 --> 00:33:26,960
The Namib lies close
to the western coast of Africa.
299
00:33:27,130 --> 00:33:31,380
At dawn,
fogs regularly roll in from the Atlantic.
300
00:33:31,720 --> 00:33:37,260
As they swirl around the welwitschia,
their moisture condenses on the huge leaves.
301
00:33:37,890 --> 00:33:41,730
Some droplets are absorbed
through cracks in the leaves' skin.
302
00:33:44,310 --> 00:33:47,480
The rest is channelled down to the ground,
303
00:33:47,690 --> 00:33:51,450
where it's sucked up by roots
just below the surface of the sand.
304
00:33:53,990 --> 00:33:58,620
The fog also provides life-saving drinks
for some of the desert animals.
305
00:33:58,870 --> 00:34:00,830
These are darkling beetles.
306
00:34:01,120 --> 00:34:05,710
On foggy mornings, they climb
to the top of the dunes and stand in lines,
307
00:34:06,000 --> 00:34:09,760
head down, abdomen up, slowly marking time.
308
00:34:32,490 --> 00:34:36,160
Droplets of water
from the fog collect on legs and antennae,
309
00:34:36,410 --> 00:34:41,580
and then, as the beetle lifts its feet,
trickle down towards its mouth.
310
00:34:47,380 --> 00:34:50,920
The Namib's fogs never penetrate very far inland.
311
00:34:51,510 --> 00:34:57,090
Deserts that lie far from the sea, therefore,
can never receive moisture in such a way.
312
00:34:57,600 --> 00:35:00,350
Their water must come from the clouds.
313
00:35:03,520 --> 00:35:06,600
Often, the clouds that do build up above a desert
314
00:35:06,770 --> 00:35:12,110
sail off elsewhere without bursting,
and the land remains parched.
315
00:35:23,200 --> 00:35:29,170
But when eventually rain does come,
it's the trigger for immediate and urgent action.
316
00:35:32,420 --> 00:35:36,970
One or two drops are all that's necessary
to activate these dead stems.
317
00:35:48,230 --> 00:35:50,520
Within half a minute, they're upright.
318
00:35:54,730 --> 00:35:58,030
Other plants begin to open their seed-heads.
319
00:36:06,580 --> 00:36:08,750
None of these plants is alive.
320
00:36:09,040 --> 00:36:14,000
All their movements are simply
the result of the dead tissues absorbing water.
321
00:36:25,890 --> 00:36:30,020
The dead seed-heads have held the seeds
securely during the drought.
322
00:36:32,690 --> 00:36:37,690
Now, since it's rained and there's a chance
of them germinating, they can be distributed.
323
00:36:40,490 --> 00:36:44,530
For some plants, the heavy raindrops
are enough to dislodge the seeds.
324
00:37:04,350 --> 00:37:10,140
Others utilise the physical effects
of absorbing water to shoot the seeds away.
325
00:37:20,450 --> 00:37:24,450
Now the seeds themselves,
lying on the ground, begin to move.
326
00:37:30,870 --> 00:37:33,830
As the hairs absorb water,
they swell and stiffen,
327
00:37:34,040 --> 00:37:36,500
so raising the seed into the right position
328
00:37:36,670 --> 00:37:41,170
for its first rootlets
to strike straight downwards into the ground.
329
00:37:44,720 --> 00:37:48,680
But sometimes in the Arizona desert,
maybe once in several years,
330
00:37:48,850 --> 00:37:53,020
there are real cloudbursts,
and the desert is transformed.
331
00:38:45,740 --> 00:38:49,620
In the aftermath of the flood, new faces appear.
332
00:39:00,170 --> 00:39:04,420
A spadefoot toad.
The males are the first to emerge from the soil
333
00:39:04,590 --> 00:39:07,890
where they've been buried
for the past year or more.
334
00:39:14,930 --> 00:39:19,440
Hastily, they make their way to one of the pools
that have appeared in the desert,
335
00:39:19,650 --> 00:39:22,780
and there they begin calling,
summoning the females.
336
00:39:24,280 --> 00:39:29,370
There is great urgency. If they don't mate
on this night, they may have lost their chance.
337
00:39:48,550 --> 00:39:53,930
Within 24 hours, the eggs have been laid
and fertilised and are beginning to hatch.
338
00:40:04,990 --> 00:40:08,740
A day later, the pool is full of tadpoles.
339
00:40:12,450 --> 00:40:15,000
Other creatures
have appeared as if from nowhere.
340
00:40:15,200 --> 00:40:20,170
Fairy shrimp have hatched from tiny eggs
blown with the dust all over the desert.
341
00:40:26,050 --> 00:40:27,800
The tadpoles are growing fast.
342
00:40:27,970 --> 00:40:31,720
These with small mouths
feed on algae and bacteria,
343
00:40:31,890 --> 00:40:35,390
a diet usually abundant in these desert pools.
344
00:40:43,940 --> 00:40:48,320
But other individuals from the same batch of eggs
develop bigger heads
345
00:40:48,490 --> 00:40:52,910
and more powerfully muscled jaws.
They have become meat-eaters.
346
00:40:57,200 --> 00:41:01,920
Not all pools will provide enough food for them,
but here they are fortunate.
347
00:41:13,090 --> 00:41:16,060
They even eat their vegetarian brothers.
348
00:41:22,350 --> 00:41:26,980
With such a protein-rich diet,
they grow even faster than the algal feeders.
349
00:41:27,150 --> 00:41:32,950
Here they are the favoured few, more likely
to survive if the pool evaporates quickly.
350
00:41:33,110 --> 00:41:35,990
They're an insurance
for the continuation of the species,
351
00:41:36,160 --> 00:41:39,540
for which the payments
are their vegetarian brothers.
352
00:41:41,790 --> 00:41:46,800
But now the pool is shrinking fast.
Another couple of days and it's almost gone.
353
00:41:46,960 --> 00:41:50,970
Unless there is another shower of rain,
all the tadpoles will die.
354
00:41:57,810 --> 00:42:00,430
If they do die, their bodies will not be wasted.
355
00:42:00,600 --> 00:42:05,400
They will decompose and fertilise the sand,
so that when the next rains come
356
00:42:05,610 --> 00:42:10,940
and another pool collects in this hollow,
the algae will grow fast and well.
357
00:42:14,490 --> 00:42:17,830
Ants are quick to attack the stricken tadpoles.
358
00:42:21,200 --> 00:42:24,670
But at the last minute, there is a reprieve.
A shower of rain.
359
00:42:24,870 --> 00:42:29,050
Some tadpoles, though they still have a tail,
now have legs,
360
00:42:29,250 --> 00:42:33,430
and they're able to leave the puddle
just two weeks after hatching.
361
00:42:41,270 --> 00:42:45,770
Even among this tiny proportion of survivors,
the mortality will be huge.
362
00:42:46,020 --> 00:42:50,280
But with luck,
a few will join the adults as the desert dries
363
00:42:50,440 --> 00:42:56,280
and bury themselves to wait for
the next shower of rain many months from now.
364
00:43:19,300 --> 00:43:23,060
For several weeks after the rains,
the desert blooms.
365
00:43:23,270 --> 00:43:28,020
The seeds shed by the shrivelled plants
have sprouted and burst into flower.
366
00:43:28,190 --> 00:43:31,070
And deserts after rain all over the world,
367
00:43:31,270 --> 00:43:34,740
in Arizona and Australia,
the Namib and the Sahara,
368
00:43:34,940 --> 00:43:40,080
put on one of the most dazzling displays
of colour that you can see anywhere.
369
00:44:27,210 --> 00:44:29,750
Deserts are shaped by the sun and the wind.
370
00:44:29,920 --> 00:44:33,840
The roasting of rocks during the day,
their chilling during cold nights,
371
00:44:34,000 --> 00:44:36,300
eventually makes their surface crumble.
372
00:44:36,550 --> 00:44:39,380
Some of their minerals splinter and fray into dust
373
00:44:39,590 --> 00:44:45,020
But quartz, the commonest, is very hard,
and that remains as grains of sand.
374
00:44:45,270 --> 00:44:51,400
The wind catches them, sweeps them away,
and collects them together as sand dunes.
375
00:45:20,090 --> 00:45:22,430
Dunes may be hundreds of feet high.
376
00:45:22,680 --> 00:45:24,550
If the wind is more or less constant,
377
00:45:24,760 --> 00:45:29,600
it blows the grains up the gently sloping side
and over the steep front
378
00:45:29,810 --> 00:45:33,270
so that the dune marches slowly
across the desert.
379
00:45:47,870 --> 00:45:52,710
Trudging up the face of a dune like this
is extremely hard work.
380
00:45:52,960 --> 00:45:55,590
The sand is so dry
381
00:45:55,840 --> 00:46:00,470
and the grains are so polished
by the wind rubbing them together
382
00:46:00,760 --> 00:46:04,390
that the surface is continuously on the move,
383
00:46:04,550 --> 00:46:07,930
and it's quite impossible
to get any firm foothold.
384
00:46:08,220 --> 00:46:11,810
And, of course, that problem faces not just me,
385
00:46:12,020 --> 00:46:15,810
but all the animals that live among these dunes.
386
00:46:16,190 --> 00:46:21,860
Some of them have developed some extremely
ingenious solutions to the difficulty.
387
00:46:24,200 --> 00:46:29,540
These extraordinary tracks have been made
by one of the swiftest movers across the dunes.
388
00:46:33,920 --> 00:46:35,960
The sidewinder, a kind of rattlesnake.
389
00:46:36,250 --> 00:46:40,210
It skims across the surface
by throwing its body into loops,
390
00:46:40,420 --> 00:46:43,340
which only touch the sand at two points.
391
00:46:44,010 --> 00:46:46,220
This not only enables it to move fast,
392
00:46:46,390 --> 00:46:49,510
but keeps most of its body off the hot surface.
393
00:46:56,020 --> 00:47:00,570
At midday,
the sand is so hot that it's painful to touch.
394
00:47:00,780 --> 00:47:06,410
The Namib fringe-toed lizard
prevents its feet from scorching by gymnastics.
395
00:47:24,470 --> 00:47:26,010
But eventually it gets so hot,
396
00:47:26,260 --> 00:47:31,140
the only thing to do is to shelter
beneath the surface where the sand is very cool.
397
00:47:33,270 --> 00:47:36,770
Burrowing through this kind of sand
also has problems.
398
00:47:36,940 --> 00:47:41,860
An animal can't construct a tunnel
like a mouse hole or a rabbit burrow
399
00:47:42,030 --> 00:47:45,200
because the sand simply falls in behind it.
400
00:47:45,570 --> 00:47:50,030
So instead it has to wriggle through the sand
almost as though it's swimming.
401
00:47:50,330 --> 00:47:53,160
And that's precisely
what this little creature does.
402
00:47:54,040 --> 00:47:59,250
It may look like a worm,
but in fact it's a lizard that has lost its legs.
403
00:47:59,540 --> 00:48:03,340
You can see that it's a lizard
when you look closely at its face.
404
00:48:05,220 --> 00:48:10,510
Its mouth and eyes are covered by
transparent scales that protect them in the sand.
405
00:48:10,760 --> 00:48:16,060
It's a blind skink. It lives by hunting
for insects below the sand surface,
406
00:48:16,270 --> 00:48:20,480
and when I put it down,
it'll wriggle away, just like an eel.
407
00:48:28,570 --> 00:48:32,620
The most extremely specialised
of these hunters in the dunes
408
00:48:32,780 --> 00:48:36,410
is not a reptile but a mammal.
409
00:48:36,790 --> 00:48:41,290
It's very rarely seen,
and your best chance of finding it is at night.
410
00:48:45,840 --> 00:48:51,890
These are its tracks, and that depression
a place where it caught something.
411
00:49:00,310 --> 00:49:01,810
This is where it has burrowed again,
412
00:49:01,980 --> 00:49:05,900
and where, with luck,
and if I dig very fast, I might catch it.
413
00:49:16,080 --> 00:49:18,700
Here it is, a golden mole.
414
00:49:21,500 --> 00:49:25,290
This one is a baby,
but like its parents, it's totally blind.
415
00:49:25,500 --> 00:49:30,420
Eyes are of no use beneath the sand.
Nor are ears, and it hasn't got those either.
416
00:49:30,630 --> 00:49:33,510
Its head ends in a leathery wedge
417
00:49:33,680 --> 00:49:38,310
with which it pushes through the sand,
or alternatively, through my fingers.
418
00:49:52,950 --> 00:49:55,570
Golden moles will eat quite large creatures:
419
00:49:55,780 --> 00:49:58,580
A blind skink, if it encounters one,
420
00:49:58,740 --> 00:50:03,000
or other creatures that might be wandering
unsuspectingly across the surface.
421
00:50:17,720 --> 00:50:19,930
A cricket would do nicely.
422
00:51:11,610 --> 00:51:16,450
The great sandy deserts of the world
in Arabia, central Australia and the Sahara
423
00:51:16,660 --> 00:51:19,870
have repelled
even the hardiest of human travellers.
424
00:51:20,080 --> 00:51:24,960
Few people have managed
to survive in them for long totally unaided.
425
00:51:25,250 --> 00:51:29,420
But some manage to make regular journeys
through these wildernesses.
426
00:51:34,720 --> 00:51:39,180
These are the Tuareg. They travel
from one side of the Sahara to the other,
427
00:51:39,350 --> 00:51:44,890
carrying great cakes of salt,
which they trade for cloth and grain and dates.
428
00:51:59,870 --> 00:52:02,030
But even the Tuareg
can only make these journeys
429
00:52:02,200 --> 00:52:06,160
with the help of an animal desert specialist:
The camel.
430
00:52:07,370 --> 00:52:11,670
They have to take all the food
that they and their camels will need with them.
431
00:52:16,590 --> 00:52:20,090
Water is carried in skins
slung beneath the camels' bellies
432
00:52:20,300 --> 00:52:23,930
to minimise evaporation
and keep it as cool as possible.
433
00:52:26,270 --> 00:52:29,400
The camel is marvellously adapted
to life in the desert.
434
00:52:29,690 --> 00:52:33,360
Its toes are reduced to two,
but connected by skin,
435
00:52:33,520 --> 00:52:37,070
so that they splay out on the sand
and don't sink deeply into it.
436
00:52:44,830 --> 00:52:50,000
Their nostrils are closable, so they can
shut out sand grains during a sandstorm.
437
00:52:59,930 --> 00:53:04,850
The hair on their body is restricted
to the top, where it shields against the sun.
438
00:53:05,100 --> 00:53:08,520
Elsewhere, for coolness,
their skin is virtually naked.
439
00:53:08,930 --> 00:53:13,060
Their hump is full of fat,
which in emergencies can be converted to water.
440
00:53:13,360 --> 00:53:16,110
But the process wastes the fat's calories
441
00:53:16,280 --> 00:53:20,150
and is only used
when the camel hasn't drunk for a long time.
442
00:53:20,360 --> 00:53:24,740
It can live without liquid water
for four times as long as a donkey
443
00:53:24,950 --> 00:53:27,450
and ten times as long as a man.
444
00:53:28,450 --> 00:53:31,620
But eventually even a camel has to drink.
445
00:53:40,050 --> 00:53:45,510
At one or two places in the Sahara, water
can be reached by digging deep into the ground.
446
00:53:45,760 --> 00:53:49,100
Here, camels can at last refill their stomachs,
447
00:53:49,270 --> 00:53:51,440
and they take a lot of filling.
448
00:54:24,260 --> 00:54:27,050
If the Tuareg
can't cross the Sahara without the camel,
449
00:54:27,260 --> 00:54:29,600
the camel can't do so without the Tuareg,
450
00:54:29,770 --> 00:54:33,810
for only men can dig for the essential water.
451
00:54:36,860 --> 00:54:40,860
Spring water is the key
which unlocks abundant fertility.
452
00:54:41,240 --> 00:54:43,200
At Saharan oases like this one,
453
00:54:43,360 --> 00:54:47,320
all kinds of crops can be produced
from the sand if it's watered:
454
00:54:47,620 --> 00:54:50,240
Dates and vegetables and fruit.
455
00:54:50,540 --> 00:54:54,160
Insects whizz and buzz
over the gurgling irrigation channels
456
00:54:54,370 --> 00:54:57,170
and birds sing in the palm trees.
457
00:54:59,590 --> 00:55:03,380
But these small islands of life
are under constant threat.
458
00:55:03,800 --> 00:55:09,470
If the wind veers and blows steadily
from another direction, nothing can stop the sand.
459
00:55:20,440 --> 00:55:25,320
Eventually the advancing dunes
may well overwhelm this oasis,
460
00:55:25,490 --> 00:55:27,530
and then this small world
461
00:55:27,700 --> 00:55:33,700
that's been brought into existence in the desert
by the presence of water will be extinguished.
462
00:55:34,040 --> 00:55:37,460
The force that drives the dune,
of course, is the wind,
463
00:55:37,710 --> 00:55:41,090
and the wind, too,
has its own world of living organisms.
464
00:55:41,300 --> 00:55:44,210
Many of the spiders and beetles
465
00:55:44,420 --> 00:55:48,800
and other insects
that live in the oasis arrived by air.
466
00:55:49,050 --> 00:55:54,480
And many of the plants, too, coming
as windblown seeds or carried by birds.
45719
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