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Our planet, the earth, is,
as far as we know, unique in the universe.
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It contains life. Even in its most barren stretches
there are animals.
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Around the equator,
where those two essentials for life,
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sunshine and moisture, are most abundant,
great forests grow,
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and here plants and animals
proliferate in such numbers
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that we still have not even named
all the different species.
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Here, animals and plants,
insects and birds, mammals and man
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live together in intimate and complex communities,
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each dependent on one another.
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Two thirds of the surface of this unique planet
are covered by water,
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and it was here indeed that life began.
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00:02:17,300 --> 00:02:21,340
From the oceans, it has spread
even to the summits of the highest mountains,
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as animals and plants have responded
to the changing face of the earth.
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This river, the Kali Gandaki,
has cut its way, in the most remarkable fashion,
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through the highest range of mountains
in the world, the Himalaya.
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To the east of me rises Annapurna,
over 23,000 feet high.
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To the west, Dhaulagiri, even higher.
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Their two summits are a mere 22 miles apart,
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and I am four vertical miles below them.
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And that makes this
the deepest valley in the world.
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At this altitude, about 7,000 feet, it's quite war
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and animal and plant life on the flanks
of the valley is both rich and abundant.
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00:03:24,530 --> 00:03:27,870
The blossoms on these trees
may well look familiar.
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Flowers like them
grow in gardens all over the world.
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But these are wild plants and this is
their original home. They're rhododendrons.
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And here they are food for monkeys, grey langurs,
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reminders that the hot plains of Southern Nepal
and the tropics
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are not far away to the south.
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But they aren't just monkey food.
They are the rhododendrons' advertisements,
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attracting birds and insects
which will sip their nectar, gather their pollen,
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and so bring about their fertilisation.
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The ring-necked parakeet
also comes from the tropics.
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Here, it's at the top of its range.
Any higher and the weather will be too cold for it
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Beneath the rhododendrons
live several species
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of those most splendid of Asia's birds,
the pheasants.
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The blood pheasant, for all its delicate beauty,
is a plainer member of the family.
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The cock Tragopan
is surely the most magnificent.
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Until, that is,
you see a cock lmpeyan pheasant,
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with the coronet of a peacock
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and the burnished, metallic iridescence
of a tropical butterfly.
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The lmpeyan's hen,
like those of all pheasants, is comparatively dull
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This deepest of all valleys in the world
enables you to walk within a few days
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from the tropics, in its lower reaches,
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to the equivalent of the poles
on the slopes high above,
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and to see as you make the journey
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how closely animals and plants are matched
to the changing circumstances.
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As you walk higher, the rhododendron forest
gets thinner and hung with moss.
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The air is moist
and it can be quite warm during the day.
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And now, in summer, there are orchids here.
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On the ground beneath,
flowers appear in close-packed bunches,
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protecting one another from the night frosts.
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The little Himalayan panda is certainly
very well protected against the cold.
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Not only does it have warm, dense fur,
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but, like many animals that spend time
in the snow, it has hair on the soles of its feet.
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That keeps its feet warm on the snow
and stops it from sliding on ice.
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Now, in the summer, it also helps
in getting a grip on wet, slippery branches.
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It's primarily a vegetarian,
collecting buds and leaves and fruit,
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but it also takes eggs from a bird's nest,
if it can find one.
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00:07:07,040 --> 00:07:09,960
On the ground,
and scarcely bigger than the panda,
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one of the shyest animals
of the Himalayan forests, a musk deer.
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In these tangled trees,
antlers would be a considerable handicap,
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and the musk deer doesn't develop them.
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A male fights instead
with the sharp tusks in his upperjaw.
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They feed on moss, lichen and leaves,
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and are so agile
and well-adapted to a mountain life
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that they can climb steep cliffs
in search of food.
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When a musk deer or any other animal
of any size dies, the vultures come.
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These are griffons,
similar to those that circle the skies
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above Indian villages
down in the hot foothills.
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00:08:02,890 --> 00:08:06,520
They are common in this forest
up to 7,000 or 8,000 feet.
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So the lives of all these creatures are connected,
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one with the other,
either directly or indirectly,
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and all are ultimately dependent
upon the vegetation.
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But both animals and plants are also
greatly affected by the physical environment.
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I've climbed several thousand feet now
and things are beginning to change.
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It's getting colder, and the rhododendrons
are giving way to fir trees,
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and that will mean
a change in the animals that live here.
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The yellow-throated martin
has a broad taste in food.
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It takes fruit on occasion,
catches insects now and then,
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but it relishes small rodents, like mice
and squirrels, and there are quite a lot here.
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Even in winter, when the forests
are deep in snow, it will remain active.
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But it's a great traveller,
and if it gets very cold,
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it will descend to lower altitudes for a spell.
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The Himalayan bear is capable
of living very high indeed.
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Its thick fur protects it against severe cold,
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but its range is not limited by temperature
so much as food supply.
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In spite of its size,
it seldom tackles any animal bigger than a mouse,
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00:10:02,760 --> 00:10:07,970
and it lives for most of the time
on ants, grubs, nuts and leaves,
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00:10:08,310 --> 00:10:11,900
so it seldom goes any higher
than the forest can grow.
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00:10:19,280 --> 00:10:24,780
And now, getting on for 10,000 feet up,
the forest is beginning to thin.
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00:10:25,120 --> 00:10:29,790
In summer, there's not much rain here,
for most has fallen at lower altitudes.
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In winter, it gets extremely cold.
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Those conditions don't suit rhododendrons.
Here only conifers flourish in large numbers.
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00:10:40,880 --> 00:10:44,720
High though we are,
the Kali Gandaki is still a very broad river.
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Remarkably, and mysteriously,
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it doesn't rise from the flanks of these
giant mountains but cuts right through them.
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The people of the foothills
have long since recognised
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the value of this extraordinary corridor
that leads right through the Himalayas,
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00:11:01,190 --> 00:11:04,820
and all summer
trains of mules trudge up the valley,
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00:11:04,990 --> 00:11:09,830
taking barley and buckwheat
to trade with Tibetans for wool and salt.
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00:11:13,250 --> 00:11:17,630
All the way up the valley
are villages where the muleteers can rest,
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but during the summer few do so.
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Most trudge tirelessly upwards
for as long as there's daylight.
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00:12:13,640 --> 00:12:16,640
A lammergeier, the bearded vulture,
a mountain bird
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00:12:16,810 --> 00:12:22,280
that soars around the high valleys of Asia
and a few remote parts of Europe,
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but nowhere higher than this.
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00:12:30,780 --> 00:12:35,040
And a sign that now we are getting really high:
Snow cock.
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00:12:35,250 --> 00:12:39,290
Its dappled white plumage gives it camouflage
against the broken snow
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that even now, in summer,
can fall at these altitudes.
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They forage for seeds and rootlets
in the thin turf.
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00:12:58,480 --> 00:13:03,150
There are no trees now,
just a few small shrubs and dry, withered grass.
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But that's enough for the tahr.
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It is neither a sheep nor a goat,
but related equally to both.
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It will eat almost anything that's green,
and is grateful to find it in this bleak land.
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00:13:16,830 --> 00:13:21,290
Another typically mountain creature:
The red-billed chough, a kind of crow.
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00:13:21,580 --> 00:13:27,300
They search the rocks for insects, grubs,
odd seeds. They will take most things.
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00:13:35,640 --> 00:13:40,350
Their cousins, yellow-billed choughs,
go as high as any bird in the world,
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riding the rising wind currents
to the height of the snow peaks themselves.
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00:14:10,840 --> 00:14:15,430
Flowers at this altitude
can only come from small cushion plants,
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00:14:15,600 --> 00:14:17,930
huddled together against the cold.
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00:14:19,180 --> 00:14:22,190
Higher still, little can grow except lichens.
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00:14:22,440 --> 00:14:27,030
Now it's so cold that growth may only be possible
for a few days in the year.
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00:14:30,070 --> 00:14:34,160
And yet, in these bleak regions,
people live.
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To help plough the fields,
they use the yak,
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a domesticated creature
that once roamed wild on the plains of Tibet,
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the only large mammal
that lives permanently as high as man.
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00:14:49,210 --> 00:14:53,930
The people, Bhotias and Sherpas,
grow not only barley but potatoes,
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00:14:54,090 --> 00:14:57,560
a crop that was first cultivated
by the Incas in the Andes
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and was introduced here a century or so ago.
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00:15:01,890 --> 00:15:06,440
These highland people are well-adapted
to life at these altitudes.
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Their blood contains a particularly high number
of red corpuscles
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and so can carry more oxygen in it
than a lowlander's can.
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Certainly, when it comes to walking
at these high altitudes,
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they're very much better adapted than I am.
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00:15:26,840 --> 00:15:34,680
So, all the living creatures in these high valleys
are adapted to their environment,
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both their biological environment
and their physical environment.
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00:15:39,140 --> 00:15:46,600
And yet, in terms of biological history,
those adaptations are very recent indeed.
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00:15:47,270 --> 00:15:54,530
These immense mountains, the eternal hills,
are in fact far from eternal.
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They are younger
than the plains of India to the south
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or the plateau of Tibet to the north.
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00:16:03,200 --> 00:16:09,920
They were raised to their present height
about 35 million years ago
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from the bottom of the sea.
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00:16:11,880 --> 00:16:16,010
And what is the evidence
for that extraordinary statement?
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It can be found all over the place, just up here.
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These slopes are littered
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with fragments like these.
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This is obviously a shell
that's been turned to stone, a fossil.
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00:16:45,960 --> 00:16:50,880
Although there are no molluscs alive today
exactly like this one,
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there are some which are sufficiently similar
for us to be sure that it lived in water.
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00:16:56,930 --> 00:17:00,640
And if we analyse the rock
in which it's embedded,
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it's clear that that was mud
laid down at the bottom of a sea.
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But I am as far as I can be from the sea.
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I am in the middle of Asia, miles from
the sea, and over two vertical miles above it.
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What forces could possibly have raised
the seabed to these heights?
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We now know that those forces
are still in action,
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that these mountains are still rising
and that land is still being created.
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00:17:58,740 --> 00:18:00,070
I'm in Iceland.
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00:18:00,740 --> 00:18:06,370
This fantastic fountain of fire
rising 200 feet or so into the air behind me
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is molten rock.
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00:18:09,500 --> 00:18:15,340
Fine ash is falling all around,
there are gusts of choking, poisonous gas,
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and it's so hot that this is just
about as close as I can get to it.
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The sheer weight
of these molten ingots of rock
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prevents them being swept away
from the vent by the gale,
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so there's little danger of them
suddenly coming our way.
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00:18:52,120 --> 00:18:56,380
Less dramatic than the fire fountain
but perhaps more sinister
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is this tide of black slag that is slowly
creeping over the surface of the land.
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00:19:03,260 --> 00:19:07,470
In parts it's red-hot and molten
and flows like treacle,
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but on the edges it's cooled enough
for me to handle it.
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00:19:12,730 --> 00:19:17,400
It's black, it's heavy and it's called basalt.
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00:19:17,610 --> 00:19:22,490
Basalt like this has been welling up
from deep in the earth's crust
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since the beginning
of the history of our planet.
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00:19:36,380 --> 00:19:39,880
A flow may travel for as much as 25 miles.
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00:19:40,170 --> 00:19:43,550
Sometimes it moves no faster
than a man can walk,
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00:19:43,760 --> 00:19:47,300
but sometimes it races along
at an extraordinary speed,
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40 miles an hour,
and nothing... nothing... can stop it.
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Sometimes so much lava is produced
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that it accumulates
in flows 100 feet or so thick.
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Then the centre layers of it
cool exceptionally slowly and very evenly,
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00:20:15,500 --> 00:20:17,670
and this is the result.
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00:20:20,040 --> 00:20:25,050
Here, at the Giant's Causeway,
the top of the lava flow has been eroded away,
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for the eruptions took place
50 million years ago.
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The cooling contractions have produced
the effect you see in drying mud,
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though here the cracks
extend to a greater depth
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00:20:35,730 --> 00:20:40,060
to produce six-sided columns
a foot and a half across.
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In the Hebrides, there's another lava flow
that erupted at about the same time
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and formed Fingal's Cave.
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00:20:56,160 --> 00:21:01,670
The layer of lava that slowed down
the cooling of the interior is still uneroded,
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00:21:01,840 --> 00:21:06,880
and beneath it the near-perfect
basalt columns rise almost 20 feet high.
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00:21:31,120 --> 00:21:36,750
Basalt that doesn't contain very much gas
wells out from below almost quietly.
190
00:22:08,400 --> 00:22:11,410
But if the lava has been extruded
under great pressure,
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it may be full of gas,
and then it behaves very differently.
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00:22:24,040 --> 00:22:29,720
Sometimes a flow sweeps down
over a forest, incinerating the trees in its path.
193
00:22:51,650 --> 00:22:58,290
Most dramatic of all, the lava sometimes
wells up inside a crater and can't escape.
194
00:22:58,500 --> 00:23:02,710
Then it forms that most fearsome
of nature's spectacles, a lava lake,
195
00:23:02,870 --> 00:23:05,630
like this one in Nyiragongo in Africa.
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00:23:06,290 --> 00:23:12,220
This lava is over 1,000 degrees centigrade,
2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.
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The bubbles of gas that burst from its surface
may be 50 feet across.
198
00:23:17,220 --> 00:23:21,730
Sometimes, having got rid of much of its gas,
like beer losing its fizz,
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00:23:21,940 --> 00:23:29,820
it sinks back down the pipe and returns
to the lava chamber a mile or so below.
200
00:23:32,150 --> 00:23:35,240
But lava lakes fed by pipes are not common.
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00:23:35,570 --> 00:23:41,200
Basalt more usually comes to the surface
in a rather different way.
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00:23:51,970 --> 00:23:58,050
These Icelandic volcanoes erupt
from huge cracks or fissures
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which regularly open up in a line
which runs right across the width of the island.
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00:24:04,350 --> 00:24:09,860
But that line itself is only
the northern end of a huge line of weakness
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that runs for thousands of miles
southwards from Iceland
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00:24:14,240 --> 00:24:16,360
right round the side of the globe.
207
00:24:19,120 --> 00:24:23,410
Iceland lies between Norway and Greenland,
south of the Arctic Circle.
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00:24:23,620 --> 00:24:27,170
The crack, ridged over by lava,
is mostly underwater,
209
00:24:27,380 --> 00:24:31,380
which is why its existence wasn't known
until the beginning of this century.
210
00:24:32,050 --> 00:24:37,140
It runs between Europe and Africa
to the east and the Americas to the west.
211
00:24:37,640 --> 00:24:41,180
In places, it rises above the sea
to form volcanic islands:
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00:24:41,350 --> 00:24:47,310
The Azores, the Cape Verdes, Ascension,
St Helena, Tristan da Cunha.
213
00:24:47,770 --> 00:24:51,610
But below the surface
the lava is also continually erupting,
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00:24:51,780 --> 00:24:55,320
unseen by human eyes
until only a few years ago.
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00:25:27,600 --> 00:25:30,230
The clouds of gas come from the lava itself.
216
00:25:30,400 --> 00:25:35,570
They're not steam. The pressure of the water
prevents that from being produced.
217
00:25:35,940 --> 00:25:39,320
The heat is rapidly absorbed
by the vastness of the ocean itself
218
00:25:39,490 --> 00:25:44,580
so that the lava cools and congeals
much more quickly than it would do in the air.
219
00:25:53,420 --> 00:25:57,800
Eruptions like these, at great depths,
built the Atlantic ridge.
220
00:25:58,090 --> 00:26:03,970
But the basalt forms not only the ridge itself
but the sea floor on either side.
221
00:26:04,560 --> 00:26:08,020
By dating it chemically,
we know that the farther it is
222
00:26:08,180 --> 00:26:11,100
from the centre of the ridge, the older it is.
223
00:26:11,480 --> 00:26:15,440
Basalt is welling up
in a molten state at the ridge
224
00:26:15,650 --> 00:26:20,280
and then, as it solidifies,
is moving away on either side.
225
00:26:20,740 --> 00:26:24,620
We still don't fully understand
the forces that power the process,
226
00:26:24,830 --> 00:26:31,500
but 50 to 30 miles below the earth's surface
it's so hot that the rocks are molten
227
00:26:31,710 --> 00:26:36,670
and currents in them are welling up
beneath the ridge, causing eruptions,
228
00:26:36,840 --> 00:26:42,340
and then flowing away on either side,
pulling the plates of the ocean floor with them.
229
00:26:42,930 --> 00:26:46,810
It was this movement that dragged apart
Africa and South America
230
00:26:46,970 --> 00:26:49,560
and created the Atlantic Ocean.
231
00:26:53,770 --> 00:26:55,860
Similar things have happened in the Pacific.
232
00:26:56,230 --> 00:26:59,820
The great plate
that forms the eastern part of the ocean floor
233
00:27:00,030 --> 00:27:03,030
is moving towards the west coast of America.
234
00:27:03,450 --> 00:27:07,120
But where it meets the continent,
it dives downwards,
235
00:27:07,290 --> 00:27:10,410
perhaps pulled by the descending current
in the crust below,
236
00:27:10,620 --> 00:27:13,790
producing a deep trench in the ocean floor.
237
00:27:15,840 --> 00:27:21,220
As it goes down, it takes with it
sediments from the bottom of the ocean
238
00:27:21,380 --> 00:27:23,010
and also some water.
239
00:27:24,140 --> 00:27:29,720
These new ingredients melt
and interact with the rocks of the interior
240
00:27:29,890 --> 00:27:35,610
to produce a mixture crucially different
from the lava that erupted at the ridge.
241
00:27:36,150 --> 00:27:40,740
For one thing,
it contains much more dissolved gas and steam.
242
00:27:42,650 --> 00:27:45,370
As it rises up on the edge of the continent,
243
00:27:45,530 --> 00:27:48,870
it cools and solidifies, choking the vents.
244
00:27:50,120 --> 00:27:53,830
The effect is like screwing down
the safety valve of a boiler.
245
00:28:12,180 --> 00:28:15,350
Mount St Helens on the Pacific coast
of North America.
246
00:28:15,770 --> 00:28:17,730
On May 18th 1980,
247
00:28:17,940 --> 00:28:23,150
with an explosion 500 times as powerful
as the atomic blast at Hiroshima,
248
00:28:23,400 --> 00:28:27,120
it blew away three-quarters
of a cubic mile of rock.
249
00:28:29,160 --> 00:28:32,790
The forests around the mountain
were totally destroyed.
250
00:28:33,040 --> 00:28:37,250
Trees 200 feet tall
lay scattered like matchsticks.
251
00:28:38,590 --> 00:28:40,670
Geologists, weeks beforehand,
252
00:28:40,840 --> 00:28:44,220
watching a huge bulge develop
on the side of the mountain,
253
00:28:44,380 --> 00:28:47,050
had warned of the coming catastrophe.
254
00:28:47,550 --> 00:28:51,850
Even so, over 30 people stayed and were killed.
255
00:29:03,490 --> 00:29:08,110
On the northern side of the volcano,
there were not even trees to be seen.
256
00:29:08,360 --> 00:29:12,040
A huge avalanche of rock,
blown out by the blast,
257
00:29:12,240 --> 00:29:17,420
had slid for 15 miles down the side
of the mountain, burying everything.
258
00:29:21,880 --> 00:29:24,880
Behind it, Mount St Helens lay wrecked.
259
00:29:25,090 --> 00:29:27,470
Its summit was over 1,000 feet lower,
260
00:29:27,630 --> 00:29:32,100
and at the back of a huge amphitheatre,
from which the rock had come,
261
00:29:32,260 --> 00:29:37,390
another ominous bulge was developing,
swathed in jets of steam.
262
00:29:53,410 --> 00:29:57,000
Almost a century earlier,
on the opposite side of the Pacific,
263
00:29:57,210 --> 00:30:02,710
another catastrophic eruption had taken
place on the tiny island of Krakatau,
264
00:30:02,960 --> 00:30:08,010
in the straits between Java to the east
and Sumatra to the west.
265
00:30:08,510 --> 00:30:13,220
In 1883 it was an island
five miles long and three miles wide,
266
00:30:13,470 --> 00:30:18,560
with three volcanic peaks on it,
the highest rising to almost 3,000 feet.
267
00:30:19,020 --> 00:30:20,650
But those peaks were dormant.
268
00:30:20,850 --> 00:30:25,610
There had been no sign of any volcanic activity
within living memory.
269
00:30:25,940 --> 00:30:28,450
But in August of that year,
270
00:30:28,650 --> 00:30:32,620
people on the coast of Java
began to hear explosions.
271
00:30:32,870 --> 00:30:35,950
A great column of smoke
rose above Krakatau.
272
00:30:36,240 --> 00:30:42,080
Pieces of lava the size of a house
were being thrown high into the air.
273
00:30:42,380 --> 00:30:45,710
The explosions continued day after day.
274
00:30:45,880 --> 00:30:52,220
The column of smoke rose up
until it was five miles or so up into the sky.
275
00:30:52,590 --> 00:30:57,680
Ships that were sailing nearby
had their decks covered in ash and pumice,
276
00:30:57,850 --> 00:31:01,980
and at night
electric flames played over the rigging.
277
00:31:02,350 --> 00:31:04,480
Day after day this continued.
278
00:31:04,860 --> 00:31:08,820
And as it was doing so,
it was emptying the lava chamber
279
00:31:08,990 --> 00:31:10,950
deep in the crust beneath the sea,
280
00:31:11,110 --> 00:31:14,990
and that was the cause
of the greatest catastrophe of all.
281
00:31:15,240 --> 00:31:20,660
Because on the morning of August 27th,
Monday, at 10 o'clock,
282
00:31:20,870 --> 00:31:24,960
the roof of that lava chamber collapsed.
283
00:31:25,250 --> 00:31:28,800
Millions of tons of sea water
poured onto the red-hot lava.
284
00:31:28,960 --> 00:31:32,380
So did millions of tons of rocks.
285
00:31:32,760 --> 00:31:35,800
And this produced a titanic explosion.
286
00:31:36,180 --> 00:31:39,470
The noise was almost certainly the loudest noise
287
00:31:39,640 --> 00:31:43,770
that has ever echoed round the earth
in recorded history.
288
00:31:44,190 --> 00:31:47,940
It was heard 2,000 miles away in Australia.
289
00:31:48,270 --> 00:31:53,780
3,000 miles away on the small island
of Rodriguez in the South Atlantic,
290
00:31:53,950 --> 00:32:00,750
the commander of the garrison heard it
and thought it was distant gunfire at sea.
291
00:32:01,540 --> 00:32:05,170
The explosion also produced a tempest of wind,
292
00:32:05,380 --> 00:32:10,170
which swept out entirely round the globe
seven and a half times
293
00:32:10,380 --> 00:32:12,420
before it finally died away.
294
00:32:13,260 --> 00:32:18,600
But most catastrophic of all,
the explosion produced a tidal wave.
295
00:32:18,930 --> 00:32:25,560
It swept towards the coasts
and became a wall of water over 100 feet high.
296
00:32:25,940 --> 00:32:32,030
It crashed into the harbours,
it picked up a naval gunboat with a crew of 28
297
00:32:32,240 --> 00:32:37,620
and lifted it for over a mile inland
and dumped it on a hill.
298
00:32:37,950 --> 00:32:41,490
And it overwhelmed village after village.
299
00:32:41,790 --> 00:32:46,460
Over 33,000 people were killed.
300
00:32:47,580 --> 00:32:51,300
The pall of ash brought darkness
301
00:32:51,500 --> 00:32:55,470
over an area of 100 miles or so
for several days.
302
00:32:55,930 --> 00:33:02,140
But when it cleared away,
the island of Krakatau was unrecognisable.
303
00:33:03,350 --> 00:33:06,060
Three-quarters of the main island
had disappeared.
304
00:33:06,310 --> 00:33:10,400
The two nearby islets were buried
beneath massive deposits of ash.
305
00:33:10,610 --> 00:33:15,110
And where the tallest peak had stood,
the sea was 900 feet deep.
306
00:33:15,490 --> 00:33:21,700
But not for long. 44 years later
another island rose from the boiling sea.
307
00:33:31,920 --> 00:33:35,800
They called it Anak Krakatau:
The child of Krakatau.
308
00:33:36,130 --> 00:33:38,220
Compared with the explosions of its parent,
309
00:33:38,380 --> 00:33:41,810
its eruptions are still trivial bubblings.
310
00:34:08,790 --> 00:34:12,340
Now, after more than 50 years of fitful activity,
311
00:34:12,500 --> 00:34:16,210
Krakatau's child has built itself a new cone.
312
00:34:16,510 --> 00:34:19,970
It's still not very big, less than 1,000 feet high
313
00:34:20,470 --> 00:34:26,350
Sporadically, it explodes.
But often it's easy enough to walk round its rim.
314
00:34:36,610 --> 00:34:42,410
The fumes that boil up from its crater
are partly steam and partly sulphurous gas,
315
00:34:42,660 --> 00:34:46,910
and the sulphur condenses on the rocks,
coating them yellow.
316
00:34:49,540 --> 00:34:53,210
All volcanic eruptions spew out sulphur
in one form or another,
317
00:34:53,420 --> 00:34:55,420
including those underwater.
318
00:34:57,920 --> 00:35:00,430
Here it doesn't form yellow crystals,
319
00:35:00,590 --> 00:35:05,220
but reacts with the sea water
to produce clouds of black sulphides.
320
00:35:09,180 --> 00:35:13,190
These smokers, nearly two miles deep
on the floor of the Pacific,
321
00:35:13,350 --> 00:35:17,780
are one of the most extraordinary
scientific discoveries of recent years.
322
00:35:18,320 --> 00:35:22,490
The sulphides they produce
are food for microscopic bacteria.
323
00:35:23,030 --> 00:35:29,660
They, in turn, are consumed by a group
of creatures unlike any seen before.
324
00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:35,090
These are giant tube-worms 11 feet long.
325
00:35:35,250 --> 00:35:40,920
They have neither mouth nor gut
but absorb bacteria through their thin skin.
326
00:35:42,720 --> 00:35:45,640
And these are clams, two feet across.
327
00:35:45,850 --> 00:35:47,850
They too consume the bacteria.
328
00:35:48,180 --> 00:35:50,850
The heated water rising above the smokers
329
00:35:51,020 --> 00:35:56,060
causes currents along the sea bottom
that sweep small particles to the vents
330
00:35:56,230 --> 00:35:59,610
so there's a whole community
of creatures feeding on them.
331
00:35:59,860 --> 00:36:05,530
Small, white, blind crabs.
Strange fish, hitherto unknown.
332
00:36:07,780 --> 00:36:10,080
Until this bizarre colony was discovered,
333
00:36:10,250 --> 00:36:12,580
we had believed that all creatures on earth
334
00:36:12,750 --> 00:36:16,000
derived their energy
through plants from the sun.
335
00:36:16,540 --> 00:36:22,420
Even the deep sea creatures
fed on fragments falling from the sunlit surface.
336
00:36:22,670 --> 00:36:26,550
But here were animals
that owed nothing to the sun
337
00:36:26,760 --> 00:36:32,520
and were sustained through bacteria
by the chemical energy of volcanoes.
338
00:36:39,610 --> 00:36:43,530
But volcanoes don't remain active for ever.
339
00:36:43,780 --> 00:36:47,490
Eventually, there is some shift
deep in the earth's crust
340
00:36:47,700 --> 00:36:51,450
and the focus of the intense heat
moves away slightly
341
00:36:51,620 --> 00:36:53,910
and the eruptions come to an end.
342
00:36:54,160 --> 00:37:00,500
But if water percolates down
through the rocks to the magma chamber,
343
00:37:00,670 --> 00:37:05,550
it's still so hot that the water
is superheated and forced up again,
344
00:37:05,760 --> 00:37:08,600
like water in the spout of a boiling kettle.
345
00:37:09,100 --> 00:37:13,980
On the way, it may dissolve minerals
from the rocks through which it passes,
346
00:37:14,180 --> 00:37:20,570
and then, as it emerges as hot springs,
the minerals will be deposited in terraces,
347
00:37:20,730 --> 00:37:23,570
like these in Rotorua, in New Zealand.
348
00:37:32,910 --> 00:37:36,160
In some parts, the superheated steam
on its way to the surface
349
00:37:36,370 --> 00:37:41,800
has dissolved the softer rocks
and brings them up as boiling mud.
350
00:37:48,590 --> 00:37:52,680
Elsewhere, the boiling water
shoots spasmodically into huge fountains,
351
00:37:52,890 --> 00:37:55,480
and the whole area is wreathed in steam.
352
00:37:55,730 --> 00:38:01,110
Such a place is typical of land
where volcanic fires are on the wane.
353
00:38:01,520 --> 00:38:05,320
The famous hot springs
of Yellowstone in the Rocky Mountains
354
00:38:05,490 --> 00:38:08,530
are also heated
by a vast chamber of molten rock
355
00:38:08,700 --> 00:38:11,370
some distance down beneath the surface.
356
00:38:23,130 --> 00:38:27,260
The water welling up
from these crystal-clear, chemically rich pools
357
00:38:27,420 --> 00:38:31,090
is so hot that no creature can live in them.
358
00:38:31,590 --> 00:38:33,970
When they trickle over the brim, they cool,
359
00:38:34,140 --> 00:38:39,140
and there rich colonies of bacteria
and mats of algae begin to grow.
360
00:38:39,690 --> 00:38:43,110
They can flourish so thickly
that they break the surface
361
00:38:43,270 --> 00:38:49,240
and divert the flow of water
so that in parts they're cool
enough for brine flies to settle.
362
00:38:59,290 --> 00:39:01,540
The flies come to feed on the algae.
363
00:39:07,510 --> 00:39:09,590
And here, too, they mate.
364
00:39:25,110 --> 00:39:29,070
They lay their eggs
directly in the warm mat of the algae.
365
00:39:29,320 --> 00:39:32,950
Each has a long white thread to its case,
like a seed.
366
00:39:41,500 --> 00:39:44,080
The eggs, however, are far from safe.
367
00:39:44,460 --> 00:39:48,090
They're seized by mites
that clamber about over the algae.
368
00:39:58,680 --> 00:40:02,440
Spiders, too, prowl around the grazing herds.
369
00:40:08,980 --> 00:40:12,150
A slightly larger fly moves among the brine flies.
370
00:40:12,320 --> 00:40:15,320
It too is a killer, devouring the grubs.
371
00:40:29,500 --> 00:40:34,010
So the algal mats support
a closely-knit interdependent community,
372
00:40:34,180 --> 00:40:38,850
all nourished by chemicals in the water
and energised by the volcanic heat.
373
00:40:39,390 --> 00:40:42,560
But in the end it's destroyed by its own success.
374
00:40:42,850 --> 00:40:47,310
Increasing numbers of grubs eat the algae
and weaken the mat.
375
00:40:47,560 --> 00:40:53,570
Eventually it gives way, the channel clears
and scalding water gushes down,
376
00:40:53,740 --> 00:40:58,990
killing a generation of grubs
and many hunters and parasites that live on them.
377
00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:06,370
Now the process has to start all over again.
378
00:41:23,560 --> 00:41:26,350
The hot volcanic springs
of the Rift Valley in Africa
379
00:41:26,560 --> 00:41:32,360
also support their own crops of bacteria
and the small algae that feed on them.
380
00:41:32,820 --> 00:41:36,150
But here the creatures
that come to harvest them are bigger.
381
00:41:36,610 --> 00:41:41,830
Flamingoes, sometimes as many
as a million of them on this one lake.
382
00:41:50,090 --> 00:41:53,800
These lesser flamingoes
feed entirely on single-celled algae
383
00:41:53,960 --> 00:41:58,340
that proliferate in vast quantities
in these steaming soda-rich waters.
384
00:41:58,890 --> 00:42:02,010
Flocks like these remove 150 tons
385
00:42:02,220 --> 00:42:05,560
of these microscopic plants
from this lake every day.
386
00:42:12,020 --> 00:42:13,900
Their bills have sieves inside them
387
00:42:14,070 --> 00:42:17,700
which strain off the algae
as the water passes through them.
388
00:42:22,620 --> 00:42:24,990
It's easy to see how creatures can benefit
389
00:42:25,160 --> 00:42:30,210
from the chemical riches of volcanoes
dissolved in the waters of hot springs.
390
00:42:31,040 --> 00:42:34,050
It's more difficult to imagine how any living thin
391
00:42:34,210 --> 00:42:37,760
could derive nourishment
from a basalt lava flow.
392
00:42:42,680 --> 00:42:47,060
Its surface in many places
is as smooth and as hard as glass,
393
00:42:47,230 --> 00:42:51,940
and neither frost nor roots of plants
can initially make any impression on it.
394
00:43:01,200 --> 00:43:03,490
Centuries may pass after an eruption
395
00:43:03,660 --> 00:43:08,080
before there's any sign of the surface
of such a flow beginning even to weather.
396
00:43:08,620 --> 00:43:14,920
This flow on the flanks of Mount Kilauea
in Hawaii is some 3,000 years old,
397
00:43:15,090 --> 00:43:21,090
and yet still it shows the rippled, ropy surface
that formed when it was liquid.
398
00:43:21,340 --> 00:43:27,100
But in the end the surface does erode
and plants do get root in the cracks.
399
00:43:27,350 --> 00:43:30,520
They in turn can support all kinds of other life,
400
00:43:30,730 --> 00:43:34,270
and so the lava flow is eventually colonised,
401
00:43:34,440 --> 00:43:37,650
not only on its surface but in its depths.
402
00:43:37,940 --> 00:43:42,200
For these basaltic lava flows
are often not as solid as they seem.
403
00:43:44,200 --> 00:43:48,160
When the lava first flows
out of the vent like a river,
404
00:43:48,330 --> 00:43:53,210
that on the outside of the flow
will cool quicker and solidify,
405
00:43:53,420 --> 00:43:56,090
forming walls on either side of the flow.
406
00:43:58,300 --> 00:44:04,390
The top too cools quicker,
and that causes a crust to form over the flow,
407
00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:09,520
so that eventually
the lava is flowing down a long tunnel.
408
00:44:10,100 --> 00:44:14,850
When that happens, the walls and ceiling
of the tunnel act as insulation,
409
00:44:15,060 --> 00:44:19,110
keeping the heat in,
so that the lava flow remains liquid
410
00:44:19,280 --> 00:44:21,990
and so continues for mile after mile.
411
00:44:27,330 --> 00:44:30,120
When eventually the supply of lava stops,
412
00:44:30,330 --> 00:44:36,630
that tunnel may drain,
leaving a long cavern like this one.
413
00:45:20,750 --> 00:45:24,260
Out of the reach of rain and frost and even dust,
414
00:45:24,420 --> 00:45:29,970
the surface of the lava looks as it did
when the last trickle was draining away
415
00:45:30,180 --> 00:45:35,230
and the floor was so hot that anything
touching it would be turned to a cinder.
416
00:45:55,120 --> 00:45:59,670
Molten lava had dripped from the ceiling,
it had swilled round the sides
417
00:45:59,830 --> 00:46:04,590
and spurted out in little dribbles
from cracks in the newly congealed walls.
418
00:46:05,220 --> 00:46:08,090
But living organisms have already moved in.
419
00:46:08,930 --> 00:46:14,220
These roots belong to trees
that are growing on the surface of the lava flow.
420
00:46:14,520 --> 00:46:18,690
They've found their way down
through the cracks, and here they dangle,
421
00:46:18,850 --> 00:46:23,190
catching water as it percolates through the lava
and trickles down them.
422
00:46:23,440 --> 00:46:29,780
Among the rootlets, there are animals
that live nowhere else in the world.
423
00:46:34,660 --> 00:46:37,710
Normally, these creatures are in total darkness.
424
00:46:38,080 --> 00:46:41,960
Nearly all of them,
like this cricket, have lost their pigment.
425
00:46:42,340 --> 00:46:45,670
Many of them have also lost
their wings and their eyes.
426
00:46:46,420 --> 00:46:49,300
In the blackness,
they find their way about by touch,
427
00:46:49,470 --> 00:46:56,470
and, like many cave insects elsewhere,
have developed long legs and antennae.
428
00:47:04,190 --> 00:47:07,030
Some, like this bug, are scavengers.
429
00:47:09,570 --> 00:47:12,820
Others, like the centipede, hunt.
430
00:47:18,410 --> 00:47:21,330
And the millipedes feed on the roots.
431
00:47:40,730 --> 00:47:44,110
So, in these extraordinary lava caverns,
432
00:47:44,270 --> 00:47:47,360
there is yet another community
of interdependent creatures
433
00:47:47,570 --> 00:47:51,700
that have come into existence
since the volcanoes erupted.
434
00:48:04,080 --> 00:48:08,670
The colonisation of volcanic ash
presents different problems.
435
00:48:08,920 --> 00:48:12,300
The difficulty here is not the hardness of the rock
436
00:48:12,470 --> 00:48:16,510
but quite the reverse,
its insubstantial dustiness.
437
00:48:16,970 --> 00:48:20,060
Mount St Helens is still a wasteland.
438
00:48:22,390 --> 00:48:26,560
It's now, as I speak,
some two and a quarter years
439
00:48:26,770 --> 00:48:28,820
since the volcano erupted.
440
00:48:29,940 --> 00:48:33,280
I'm some three miles from the crater,
441
00:48:33,490 --> 00:48:38,950
and still the scene
is one of devastation and sterility.
442
00:48:39,200 --> 00:48:44,580
It's not just that
this unweathered ash is not very fertile,
443
00:48:44,750 --> 00:48:49,710
but it's also so loose
that it's difficult for plants to get root.
444
00:48:50,000 --> 00:48:53,170
But that possibility is always here.
445
00:48:53,470 --> 00:49:00,100
Here, for example, in this crevice,
there are the seeds of the willow herb,
446
00:49:00,270 --> 00:49:03,390
or, as they call it in these parts, fireweed,
447
00:49:03,560 --> 00:49:07,060
that have been blown up from the valleys below.
448
00:49:07,310 --> 00:49:11,320
I don't suppose these particular ones
will manage to get root here,
449
00:49:11,530 --> 00:49:14,030
but in the end some plant will,
450
00:49:14,240 --> 00:49:18,370
and in the end
the process of colonisation will begin.
451
00:49:22,450 --> 00:49:25,330
Krakatau's child is just 57 years old.
452
00:49:25,670 --> 00:49:28,500
Its flanks too are covered with ash,
453
00:49:28,710 --> 00:49:32,710
and they're still buried regularly
with new layers from fresh eruptions,
454
00:49:33,010 --> 00:49:36,760
yet the process of colonisation
is already under way.
455
00:49:37,430 --> 00:49:41,470
Not only are there giant grasses,
like this wild sugar cane,
456
00:49:41,680 --> 00:49:44,640
but trees: A casuarina.
457
00:49:44,850 --> 00:49:50,150
If you want to see what a century
of colonisation by plants can bring about,
458
00:49:50,320 --> 00:49:54,990
have a look at that fragment
of old Krakatau over there.
459
00:50:04,580 --> 00:50:07,330
We know from first-hand reports
that 100 years ago
460
00:50:07,500 --> 00:50:11,460
there was nothing here
but sterile ash many feet deep.
461
00:50:12,130 --> 00:50:16,670
Within three years,
34 different species of plants had reappeared.
462
00:50:17,050 --> 00:50:20,180
Ten years later there were twice that number,
463
00:50:20,350 --> 00:50:23,850
and over 100 species
of birds and insects as well.
464
00:50:24,310 --> 00:50:28,520
Some seeds must have floated here from Java,
some 20 miles away,
465
00:50:28,730 --> 00:50:30,940
and they still continue to do so.
466
00:50:32,690 --> 00:50:36,280
Other smaller ones
were probably carried here by birds,
467
00:50:36,490 --> 00:50:39,320
either on their feet or in their stomachs.
468
00:50:51,840 --> 00:50:56,920
But the ash is still here
beneath the lattice of roots of the jungle trees.
469
00:51:02,010 --> 00:51:07,480
Somehow or other, rats and lizards and pythons
have all reached here.
470
00:51:07,980 --> 00:51:11,230
There are now many hundreds
of different species of plants,
471
00:51:11,400 --> 00:51:16,150
and the winds have assisted the passage
of many flying insects,
472
00:51:16,320 --> 00:51:20,450
whose descendants now form
large and permanent populations,
473
00:51:20,660 --> 00:51:24,120
pollinating the flowers,
feeding on their fruits,
474
00:51:24,330 --> 00:51:29,000
collecting their rotting leaves
and indeed feeding on one another.
475
00:51:48,810 --> 00:51:52,560
As yet there are no larger mammals,
no monkeys or squirrels,
476
00:51:52,730 --> 00:51:57,480
no hunting cats or mongoose,
as there are in Java or Sumatra.
477
00:51:57,980 --> 00:52:00,360
But as far as smaller creatures are concerned,
478
00:52:00,530 --> 00:52:03,700
the number of species is increasing all the time.
479
00:52:17,550 --> 00:52:21,010
And on the flanks of volcanoes
all round the world,
480
00:52:21,170 --> 00:52:24,140
men clear fields and plant crops,
481
00:52:24,300 --> 00:52:27,930
even though they know
they may be sitting on a time bomb.
482
00:52:35,110 --> 00:52:39,190
These rice fields lie on the flanks
of one of Krakatau's near neighbours,
483
00:52:39,400 --> 00:52:41,360
Gunung Agung in Bali.
484
00:52:41,780 --> 00:52:44,070
Only 20 years ago it erupted,
485
00:52:44,240 --> 00:52:49,240
killing 2,000 people
and leaving 150,000 homeless.
486
00:52:49,910 --> 00:52:53,370
But the Balinese will not leave fields
that are so fertile
487
00:52:53,540 --> 00:52:58,460
they can produce two or three rich harvests
of rice every year.
488
00:53:00,380 --> 00:53:05,680
Gunung Agung, Krakatau
and the rest of the violently explosive volcanoes
489
00:53:05,840 --> 00:53:11,180
that run in a chain along Sumatra
and Java and the Indonesian islands
490
00:53:11,350 --> 00:53:14,310
stand on the line of the crack in the earth's crus
491
00:53:14,480 --> 00:53:17,650
where the basalt plate
forming the floor of the Indian Ocean
492
00:53:17,810 --> 00:53:21,610
meets the partly submerged edge
of the continent of Asia.
493
00:53:22,030 --> 00:53:25,740
This junction already existed 35 million years ago
494
00:53:25,910 --> 00:53:29,950
when India was an isolated island
in the middle of that ocean.
495
00:53:30,240 --> 00:53:34,120
Since then, as the ocean floor
has continued to spread,
496
00:53:34,370 --> 00:53:38,380
the continents have shifted
and India has moved towards Asia.
497
00:53:38,670 --> 00:53:40,670
As the two continents approached,
498
00:53:40,880 --> 00:53:45,680
the sediments between them crumpled
and eventually piled up over the junction,
499
00:53:45,880 --> 00:53:50,060
so instead of the line between them
being marked by volcanoes,
500
00:53:50,260 --> 00:53:55,690
it's buried deep beneath
an immense range of mountains, the Himalaya.
501
00:53:58,480 --> 00:54:04,650
So these great peaks of sandstone
and limestone rising five miles into the sky
502
00:54:04,820 --> 00:54:09,490
are not only the highest mountains in the world,
but among the youngest.
503
00:54:09,820 --> 00:54:13,200
And the process has not yet come to an end.
504
00:54:13,700 --> 00:54:18,040
India is still moving north
at the rate of two inches a year,
505
00:54:18,250 --> 00:54:23,670
compacting itself ever more tightly
against the continental mass of Asia,
506
00:54:23,840 --> 00:54:29,180
and the Himalaya are, infinitesimally,
getting higher and higher.
507
00:54:30,510 --> 00:54:34,180
And that is how this ammonite,
this sea-living creature,
508
00:54:34,390 --> 00:54:38,940
came to rest over two miles high in the Himalaya.
509
00:54:39,190 --> 00:54:43,020
That too is the explanation
of how the Kali Gandaki river
510
00:54:43,190 --> 00:54:48,660
managed to cut its way clean through
the highest range of mountains in the world.
511
00:54:49,660 --> 00:54:53,200
It was flowing south
from the ancient plateau of Tibet
512
00:54:53,370 --> 00:54:57,710
even before the great mass of India
collided with Asia.
513
00:54:58,210 --> 00:55:04,130
As the sediments between the two land masses
buckled and rose over millions of years,
514
00:55:04,300 --> 00:55:06,670
the river maintained its course,
515
00:55:06,880 --> 00:55:10,800
cutting down through the rocks
as swiftly as they rose.
516
00:55:11,510 --> 00:55:15,140
And so now it still flows south
to the plains of India,
517
00:55:15,310 --> 00:55:19,640
and does so
through the deepest gorge in the world.
518
00:55:21,520 --> 00:55:26,150
Mountain ranges have been created
in this way several times.
519
00:55:26,320 --> 00:55:28,820
The Himalaya are just the most recent.
520
00:55:29,150 --> 00:55:32,820
As they are worn down,
they create different environments
521
00:55:32,990 --> 00:55:35,120
in which animals and plants can live.
50956
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