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(intense music)
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Look at this place.
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Simply breathtaking.
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Welcome to New Guinea.
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The worlds largest jungle island.
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One of the most remote and unexplored parts of our world.
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It's very intimidating, potentially very dangerous
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but also one of the most exciting places on the planet.
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Running from it's mountainous heart,
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over 500 kilometers, through pristine wilderness,
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wild gorges and tropical jungle out to the sea.
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Is the mighty Baliem River.
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I was expecting it to be big,
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but I wasn't expecting that.
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No one's ever traveled the full length
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of this untamed river before.
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We've managed to turn a simple side trip
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into an absolute epic.
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I'm Steve Backshall.
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I'm a naturalist and adventurer.
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It just looks like there should be dinosaurs everywhere.
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I want to explore the river
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and discover more about the remarkable variety of worlds
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through which it travels.
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Ouch shoot!
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It's home home to ancient tribes.
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I want to see how they're coping with the modern world.
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When they're in mourning,
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they will cut off their own fingers as a sign of grief.
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I'll be searching for
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some of the worlds scariest animals.
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It was basically eating its way through the village.
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And exploring a vast,
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uncharted underground world.
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Now that is impressive.
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But the Baliem is so inaccessible,
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that the only way to uncover its secrets
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is to travel it's length from source to sea.
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We are committed now.
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By any means possible.
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It could give us a unique insight into the one of the last
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truly wild places on Earth.
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Where the hell are you taking us Aldo?
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I don't know mate.
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Or it could be a journey,
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too far.
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Oh no.
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(intense music)
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We're half way through
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our five-week expedition into the heart of New Guinea.
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This bit's really slippy.
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Expedition safety expert Aldo Kane and I
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are scouting out the next section of our journey.
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The toughest and most dangerous part of our trip,
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the dreaded Lower Gorge.
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This is very much the crux Of the expedition.
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If we're gonna be able to travel the Baliem
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from source to sea, this is the breaking point.
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Our expedition has brought us to Papua,
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a province of Indonesia that makes up
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the western half of New Guinea.
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Our plan is to travel by boat from here to the sea.
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The river drops down a vertical mile
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in the space of less than 100 kilometers.
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And oh crap.
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That gives me the willies.
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This was supposed to be the dry season,
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but we've had unseasonal rains
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and we're worried the river will be in full flood.
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This part, the gorge, just fills me with terror.
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Our aim is to kayak
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the Baliem lower gorge,
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80 kilometers of death defying white water.
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Crashing down through impenetrable rain forest
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before it reacher South Gap, the end of the gorge.
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From here, the river winds 200 kilometers
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through lowland jungle into the land of the Asmat.
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A tribe famous for their recent history
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of headhunting and cannibalism.
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Finally our expedition will end at the Pacific Ocean.
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(intense music)
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We're hoping to meet remote and potentially hostile tribes
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and to see some of the extraordinary wild life
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that lives along the banks of the isolated Lower Gorge.
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I was expecting it to be big, but I wasn't expecting that.
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That's impossible.
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Once you get further down into that gorge,
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for the next however 80-odd kilometers it is,
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there's no way of getting out.
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You can see behind where the gorge actually starts
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and the rock wall come in, they get tighter and tighter,
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the river constricts and all of the volume of water
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is intensified, and so it's flowing at a steeper gradient
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with an increased volume, and it is gonna be even more
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challenging than this.
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If you paddled into that you would definitely die.
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It's clear we can't begin here.
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We'll have to hop over this section
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and begin deep inside the gorge.
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Which means resorting to a helicopter.
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It's a compromise to the pure expedition I wanted,
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but with hundreds of kilometers of river left,
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there's still plenty of exploration ahead.
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Coming down through here seeing somewhere so
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extraordinary, so beautiful.
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I think either we can be the first people ever
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to come down here, it's mind blowing.
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We're scanning the banks
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for a place we can land and finally start kayaking.
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This section of the gorge we'll be going into before
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no one's ever attempted it, there is no decent map.
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The river is one of the wildest,
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most potentially lethal on Earth.
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But we've got a world class kayaking team.
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Lead by New Zealander, Jordy Searle.
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Down here, Owen says,
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by far the most isolated I've ever been.
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10 kilometers down stream,
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we finally find what we're looking for.
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So from here on in the water is, well it's epic,
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it's massive but it looks doable.
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Our team is four kayakers
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and a camera crew.
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Plus 100's of kilos of camping and filming gear
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packed into two inflatable rafts.
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And now, we're on our own.
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(light music)
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Rides just a nice big positive strokes.
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(light music)
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Our first paddle strokes
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on the Lower Gorge.
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It's as exciting as it is daunting.
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This river has so many different changing faces.
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Even here in the gorge it's changed completely.
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And now we're heading down into this fantastic gully.
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There are creepers and vines covering all of the trees.
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It just looks like there should be dinosaurs everywhere.
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But instead of pterodactyls flying over your head,
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we have Hornbills and Parakeets.
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This is one of the most extraordinary places I've ever seen.
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The rampaging river makes much
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of the gorge completely inaccessible.
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The surrounding forest are doubtless filled
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with unknown animals and remote tribes.
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It's incredible to think we're the first outsiders
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ever to kayak here.
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Maybe even to see this place.
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But as we head around the next corner,
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the river changes character.
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Oh this looks massive.
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Ahead, the biggest rapid
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we've yet faced on the Baliem.
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As the river carves its way down the canyon,
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it hits a wall of limestone,
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forcing it to turn right.
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Getting trapped in that would be very bad indeed.
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So this is it, this is bigger than anything
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I thought I'd be taking on on this river.
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And if I pick the right line, it'll be great.
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And if I mess up, it's gonna be horrific.
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I've got this zing of adrenaline I'm just shaking,
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my hands are kind of going.
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(water crashing)
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Barney, Steve, me.
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Kayaker Barney Young's going first
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to pick the route.
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Jordy and I will follow.
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On his tail Steve.
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Barney's paddling straight
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into the middle of the river,
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trying to keep the small gravel island on his left.
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To give him a fighting chance of keeping clear
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of smashing into that wall.
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He makes it, but I've been caught out
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and I'm heading completely off-course.
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Damn it.
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Jordy steps in.
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Alright, big fury glide.
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Watch your speed.
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We power back into the main current,
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paddling frantically,
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trying to avoid the horror of the wall.
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But the colossal volume of water hurtles me toward the rock
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threatening to crush me,
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then suck me down into the whirlpool.
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Ahhh!
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Paddle, paddle, paddle.
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A wave hits me side-on.
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I capsized.
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Battling to roll back up.
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Paddle, paddle, paddle, yes!
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Paddle, right behind me.
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There's no let up.
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I still have to get across the river to Barney.
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Paddle, lean forward and paddle.
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If I don't make it, I could end up being
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swept downstream into the next set of rapids.
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Ahh, holy crap!
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Oh my god, oh my god.
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Bro, I'm not gonna lie,
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I thought you were gonna swim in the end man.
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I'm gonna remember that for the rest of my life.
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I have just taken the biggest hit of adrenaline.
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My entire body is shaking.
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There was a moment there where I hit that wave
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bouncing back off the wall and it flipped me instantly
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and I was underwater thinking,
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do not come out of your boat here.
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To be pinned against that wall with all this water,
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you wouldn't stand a chance.
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It was a close call,
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now it's the turn of the rafts carrying the camera team
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and all our gear to brave the rapids.
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They need to follow our route
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and keep well away from the wall.
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Flipping here would be disastrous.
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(intense music)
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The first raft just misses the wall.
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But the second one hits it head on.
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Before flushing them clear,
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battered and shaking.
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(heavy breathing)
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The rapids are endless.
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An island midstream is a chance to regroup.
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Well this actually isn't supposed to be an island.
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We're supposed to be joined up with the river bank here
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but because the flow is so high,
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there's a river flowing both sides of it.
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There's a stump that should be on dry land.
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And is completely overwhelmed.
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Barney's pushing ahead
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to scout the next bend.
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And what lies beyond it.
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Well so far, we've managed to handle everything
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the rivers thrown at us.
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But you just never know what's around the next corner.
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And his radio report brings bad news.
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[Barney on Walkie] It's all pumping into the same turn
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And then it looks like it just
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drops off the face of this Earth.
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Up ahead is the wildest white water
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any of us have ever seen.
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That's horrific.
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This river is just not gonna give it up easy.
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Totally unpaddleable
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Not a chance we're getting down that.
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The river just drops into a huge maelstrom
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of like big holes, big crashing waves,
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like dwarfing anything we've seen so far.
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And if one small mistake is made in here,
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there's no way to recover,
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like you're going straight into that next section.
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(intense music)
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Once again,
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we've hit a section that we can't kayak.
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We're trapped.
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But flood levels like this do at least give an insight
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into the rivers destructive power.
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It could just take away these mountain sides.
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And that, of course, is what's created the Baliem gorge.
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The sheer force of the water
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tumbles rocks downstream,
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grinding away at the bedrock,
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scouring out the river channel.
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It's erosion at its most powerful.
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When it's in full flood, it has the power
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to move along boulders that are the size of cars.
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It's a mighty, yet sobering, spectacle.
269
00:15:40,730 --> 00:15:42,620
Dusk is starting to fall.
270
00:15:42,620 --> 00:15:45,680
We're exhausted, beaten and bruised.
271
00:15:45,680 --> 00:15:47,180
Decisions on what to do next
272
00:15:47,180 --> 00:15:48,830
will have to wait until tomorrow.
273
00:15:49,791 --> 00:15:52,291
(light music)
274
00:16:06,230 --> 00:16:08,647
(thundering)
275
00:16:18,773 --> 00:16:22,510
It's been raining for six solid hours quite heavily.
276
00:16:22,510 --> 00:16:27,510
River's come up, by now the meter, or maybe more.
277
00:16:28,161 --> 00:16:30,448
Not only can't we continue downstream,
278
00:16:30,448 --> 00:16:33,420
but we can't get out of here either.
279
00:16:33,420 --> 00:16:37,780
What was solid about five hours ago
280
00:16:39,183 --> 00:16:40,040
craziest white water in the world
281
00:16:42,018 --> 00:16:43,418
just got bigger and crazier.
282
00:16:45,450 --> 00:16:46,300
So we're stuck.
283
00:16:48,850 --> 00:16:49,770
The bad weather means
284
00:16:49,770 --> 00:16:51,820
we can't call for a helicopter.
285
00:16:51,820 --> 00:16:54,320
So for the next day, at least, we're trapped here.
286
00:16:55,284 --> 00:16:57,784
(light music)
287
00:17:03,760 --> 00:17:05,210
But it does mean I get a chance
288
00:17:05,210 --> 00:17:06,660
to have a proper look around.
289
00:17:08,733 --> 00:17:11,233
(light music)
290
00:17:15,275 --> 00:17:16,280
I have to say this is one of the
291
00:17:16,280 --> 00:17:18,710
prettiest patches of forest
292
00:17:18,710 --> 00:17:20,360
that I've ever spent any time in.
293
00:17:21,220 --> 00:17:23,040
And all these splashes of color,
294
00:17:23,040 --> 00:17:27,111
these blooms like this, seem even more fragile
295
00:17:27,111 --> 00:17:31,180
when they're along side that massive, torrential river.
296
00:17:34,950 --> 00:17:35,820
Orchids like these
297
00:17:35,820 --> 00:17:38,130
thrive at the river-side.
298
00:17:38,130 --> 00:17:41,130
You get these incredible displays of color.
299
00:17:41,130 --> 00:17:44,960
And that, very much, is designed to attract the pollinators.
300
00:17:46,630 --> 00:17:50,188
Just in here is a paper nest which has been made
301
00:17:50,188 --> 00:17:55,050
from chewed-up tree bark and wasp spit essentially.
302
00:17:55,050 --> 00:17:59,210
And gathered around it are a whole host of wasps.
303
00:17:59,210 --> 00:18:02,198
So a fair few times working in forests like these,
304
00:18:02,198 --> 00:18:04,830
I've brushed into nests like this
305
00:18:04,830 --> 00:18:08,140
and got stung a couple of times and just kinda swatted
306
00:18:08,140 --> 00:18:11,920
the wasps, and when you do that they release a pheromone
307
00:18:11,920 --> 00:18:15,230
which smells like ripe bananas and it's an attack pheromone.
308
00:18:15,230 --> 00:18:18,290
It convinces all of the others to start stinging too.
309
00:18:18,290 --> 00:18:20,680
And you end up charging for the nearest body of water
310
00:18:20,680 --> 00:18:23,180
with your arms flailing around all over the...
311
00:18:24,210 --> 00:18:25,240
Ow shoot!
312
00:18:28,420 --> 00:18:32,445
I just seriously went against
313
00:18:32,445 --> 00:18:36,790
working with wasps and bees rule one.
314
00:18:39,900 --> 00:18:42,789
I must spend so much of my life telling people,
315
00:18:42,789 --> 00:18:45,920
if you're near wasps and bees don't swing your arms
316
00:18:45,920 --> 00:18:49,153
around all over the place because it agitates them.
317
00:18:49,153 --> 00:18:51,830
And that's really spicy.
318
00:18:52,890 --> 00:18:53,723
Ow.
319
00:18:55,332 --> 00:18:57,582
(laughing)
320
00:19:02,680 --> 00:19:04,930
With no sign of the weather improving,
321
00:19:04,930 --> 00:19:07,280
Aldo and I decide to make the most of it
322
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:08,891
and try and find one of the elusive tribes
323
00:19:08,891 --> 00:19:10,130
that live out here.
324
00:19:16,170 --> 00:19:18,190
And the signs are promising.
325
00:19:18,190 --> 00:19:19,023
Look at this.
326
00:19:21,080 --> 00:19:25,535
It's a hunters hut and I can still smell
327
00:19:25,535 --> 00:19:28,410
that damp ember smell.
328
00:19:28,410 --> 00:19:31,820
Which means that this fire is relatively recent.
329
00:19:33,740 --> 00:19:35,900
The dominant tribe in this part of Papua
330
00:19:35,900 --> 00:19:37,520
are the Yali.
331
00:19:37,520 --> 00:19:39,850
There villages are found in the wild lands
332
00:19:39,850 --> 00:19:41,730
that surround the Baliem gorge.
333
00:19:42,840 --> 00:19:44,870
If we can find one of their villages,
334
00:19:44,870 --> 00:19:46,110
it'd be a real key.
335
00:19:49,240 --> 00:19:52,520
So if we look around here, there's bound to be a trail
336
00:19:52,520 --> 00:19:54,778
that heads up there and I bet anything
337
00:19:54,778 --> 00:19:57,728
that there's a village somewhere in the hillsides above us.
338
00:20:00,410 --> 00:20:01,870
With their own distinct language
339
00:20:01,870 --> 00:20:04,570
and culture, many of the Yali live their lives
340
00:20:04,570 --> 00:20:06,290
shut away from the outside world.
341
00:20:09,300 --> 00:20:12,700
Finding a trail to their village is easier said than done.
342
00:20:17,880 --> 00:20:18,713
Is that yes?
343
00:20:18,713 --> 00:20:19,546
Yeah.
344
00:20:21,170 --> 00:20:22,600
Certainly not as well used
345
00:20:22,600 --> 00:20:24,685
as the stuff that we've just come through.
346
00:20:24,685 --> 00:20:25,710
Yeah, it's maybe not used that frequently
347
00:20:25,710 --> 00:20:29,420
but it's definitely, definitely a walkway.
348
00:20:30,400 --> 00:20:33,340
I'm not convinced if I'm honest mate.
349
00:20:34,257 --> 00:20:35,400
Nope.
350
00:20:38,940 --> 00:20:41,077
T-shirt or something there.
351
00:20:41,077 --> 00:20:42,570
Or rag.
352
00:20:48,450 --> 00:20:50,120
Well, this is the path.
353
00:20:51,810 --> 00:20:55,680
I'd imagine we'd zig zag up onto this ridge line here.
354
00:20:56,750 --> 00:20:59,310
This old hunters trail is over grown,
355
00:20:59,310 --> 00:21:00,290
and little used.
356
00:21:01,260 --> 00:21:04,590
It's a struggle to cover any distance, and painfully slow.
357
00:21:08,320 --> 00:21:09,770
It's thick isn't it.
358
00:21:10,880 --> 00:21:13,380
(light music)
359
00:21:18,730 --> 00:21:20,345
The occasional chopped down tree
360
00:21:20,345 --> 00:21:22,190
is another trail marker.
361
00:21:23,450 --> 00:21:24,780
That's been cut with a tool.
362
00:21:24,780 --> 00:21:27,090
Signs the Yali have been here.
363
00:21:32,200 --> 00:21:35,090
The terrain gets steeper and steeper.
364
00:21:35,090 --> 00:21:38,070
It's humid, sweaty and slippery.
365
00:21:39,560 --> 00:21:42,080
Even the wildlife seems to be taunting us.
366
00:21:47,290 --> 00:21:52,290
I just walked into the mother of all spiders webs.
367
00:21:53,300 --> 00:21:55,140
And this is the culprit.
368
00:21:56,610 --> 00:21:58,380
She is Nephila.
369
00:21:59,940 --> 00:22:02,790
A Golden silk orb web-weaving spider.
370
00:22:03,900 --> 00:22:05,820
She's a reasonable size.
371
00:22:05,820 --> 00:22:07,810
But they can get to be enormous.
372
00:22:07,810 --> 00:22:09,786
This incredible spider though I guess
373
00:22:09,786 --> 00:22:13,060
it looks extremely creepy,
374
00:22:13,060 --> 00:22:15,880
is harmless to use as human beings.
375
00:22:15,880 --> 00:22:17,150
The webs are strung across
376
00:22:17,150 --> 00:22:20,230
the open paths to target flying insects.
377
00:22:20,230 --> 00:22:23,940
But have been known to catch small birds and even bats.
378
00:22:23,940 --> 00:22:27,130
She'll inject them with enzymes that liquefy their insides
379
00:22:27,130 --> 00:22:29,410
and suck out the meat soup.
380
00:22:29,410 --> 00:22:31,380
Alright, I'm gonna her back on this leaf here.
381
00:22:32,950 --> 00:22:36,420
See that long thread of golden silk.
382
00:22:36,420 --> 00:22:40,980
For its size and for its diameter, it's stronger than steel.
383
00:22:42,610 --> 00:22:43,910
As I'm out front,
384
00:22:43,910 --> 00:22:46,240
I'm the one walking into all the webs.
385
00:22:48,150 --> 00:22:50,890
And I am trussed up in it properly.
386
00:22:51,750 --> 00:22:53,050
It's all in my hair.
387
00:22:54,308 --> 00:22:55,240
Gross.
388
00:23:01,049 --> 00:23:03,632
(somber music)
389
00:23:08,886 --> 00:23:10,720
After hours of struggling up-hill,
390
00:23:10,720 --> 00:23:12,680
we break out of the trees.
391
00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:15,130
But it's not the Yali village we were hoping for.
392
00:23:16,724 --> 00:23:18,724
Oh now that is a view.
393
00:23:20,431 --> 00:23:21,800
Wow.
394
00:23:22,932 --> 00:23:24,110
Pristine.
395
00:23:24,110 --> 00:23:25,980
It's not often in the rain forest that you pop out
396
00:23:25,980 --> 00:23:27,380
and get a view like that.
397
00:23:27,380 --> 00:23:29,600
Usually you're just completely encased in this
398
00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:31,740
dark green cavern.
399
00:23:31,740 --> 00:23:35,320
And all of a sudden, seeing this...
400
00:23:35,320 --> 00:23:36,320
It's amazing to think
401
00:23:36,320 --> 00:23:38,060
that this was once a sea bed.
402
00:23:38,060 --> 00:23:40,460
Marine fossils in the rock prove it.
403
00:23:40,460 --> 00:23:42,030
Over the last five million years,
404
00:23:42,030 --> 00:23:43,590
these layers of ocean floor
405
00:23:43,590 --> 00:23:45,690
were lifted up to form mountains.
406
00:23:45,690 --> 00:23:47,415
Then rivers like the Baliem got to work.
407
00:23:47,415 --> 00:23:49,700
Carving out deep valleys.
408
00:23:50,880 --> 00:23:53,309
Being here gives you a real sense of quite
409
00:23:53,309 --> 00:23:57,350
what it is that we've taken on here, you know.
410
00:23:57,350 --> 00:24:00,600
The river is an absolute beast
411
00:24:00,600 --> 00:24:02,350
but the second you come away from it
412
00:24:02,350 --> 00:24:03,650
the forest is even harder.
413
00:24:05,840 --> 00:24:10,840
We've taken three and a half hours to get here.
414
00:24:12,620 --> 00:24:17,140
And we are about a kilometer away from where we started.
415
00:24:17,140 --> 00:24:18,730
Only 200 meters in height.
416
00:24:18,730 --> 00:24:21,130
Only 200 meters in height.
417
00:24:21,130 --> 00:24:22,220
And massive mosquitoes.
418
00:24:22,220 --> 00:24:24,340
Massive, massive mosquitoes.
419
00:24:26,080 --> 00:24:28,331
It's 4:30 now so it's gonna be dark
420
00:24:28,331 --> 00:24:30,600
in just over an hour or so.
421
00:24:31,470 --> 00:24:33,316
I don't think we're gonna get to that village, do you?
422
00:24:33,316 --> 00:24:34,366
No, there's no way.
423
00:24:35,700 --> 00:24:36,970
We made have utterly failed
424
00:24:36,970 --> 00:24:39,740
to find the elusive Yali village on the ridge line,
425
00:24:39,740 --> 00:24:41,960
but it's given us a different perspective on the river.
426
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:43,610
And the landscape that it shaped.
427
00:24:45,070 --> 00:24:47,110
There's no water up here.
428
00:24:47,110 --> 00:24:48,910
We can't really camp up here comfortably
429
00:24:48,910 --> 00:24:51,700
so we're gonna have to head down and fast
430
00:24:51,700 --> 00:24:53,700
otherwise we're gonna be sliding down those slopes
431
00:24:53,700 --> 00:24:57,280
in the dark and that would be very unwise.
432
00:24:57,280 --> 00:24:59,240
I think we'll end up in the dark anyway.
433
00:25:02,731 --> 00:25:05,400
Sure enough, as soon as we drop back
434
00:25:05,400 --> 00:25:08,140
under the dense canopy, the light fades.
435
00:25:10,165 --> 00:25:12,832
(intense music)
436
00:25:15,961 --> 00:25:18,770
The jungles so difficult to navigate in,
437
00:25:18,770 --> 00:25:21,720
in daylight, never mind night time.
438
00:25:24,170 --> 00:25:26,490
Keep your wits about you.
439
00:25:27,670 --> 00:25:29,758
The trail was tricky to find before,
440
00:25:29,758 --> 00:25:32,910
now in the dark, we quickly lose our bearings.
441
00:25:35,920 --> 00:25:38,480
First thing you learn about being in the jungle
442
00:25:38,480 --> 00:25:39,780
is don't fight the forest.
443
00:25:40,631 --> 00:25:43,654
Move as slowly, carefully and easily as you can
444
00:25:43,654 --> 00:25:47,870
because otherwise you're gonna become a cropper.
445
00:25:52,530 --> 00:25:54,580
The only way on is to head down
446
00:25:54,580 --> 00:25:56,140
towards the roar of the river.
447
00:25:58,759 --> 00:26:02,090
Alright, nice and gently guys, really gently.
448
00:26:03,340 --> 00:26:05,910
If you fall, shout, keep your legs together.
449
00:26:10,407 --> 00:26:12,110
Everyone just be super careful you don't lose sight,
450
00:26:12,110 --> 00:26:15,180
that's a big drop so maybe push on to the left.
451
00:26:17,991 --> 00:26:19,150
We're in the nightmare scenario now.
452
00:26:19,150 --> 00:26:20,836
Can't see the track.
453
00:26:20,836 --> 00:26:22,380
Nothing really to hold onto.
454
00:26:23,287 --> 00:26:25,780
(yelling)
455
00:26:25,780 --> 00:26:26,990
Careful mate, careful.
456
00:26:28,090 --> 00:26:30,326
Where the hell are you taking us Aldo?
457
00:26:30,326 --> 00:26:32,283
I don't know, mate.
458
00:26:32,283 --> 00:26:35,135
We've managed to turn a simple side trip
459
00:26:35,135 --> 00:26:37,360
into an absolute epic.
460
00:26:40,210 --> 00:26:45,210
Everyone's exhausted and we're going for much too long.
461
00:26:48,600 --> 00:26:50,350
Just be super careful,
462
00:26:50,350 --> 00:26:52,000
I can't see how steep it is here.
463
00:26:54,904 --> 00:26:57,940
The river's getting louder, we're getting closer.
464
00:26:57,940 --> 00:26:59,430
But we've no idea if we're about
465
00:26:59,430 --> 00:27:02,080
to walk into our camp, or the rapids.
466
00:27:03,170 --> 00:27:05,339
I can see the water now.
467
00:27:05,339 --> 00:27:07,900
Oh thank good for that.
468
00:27:07,900 --> 00:27:09,301
Yeah, sorry.
469
00:27:09,301 --> 00:27:11,801
It's always an epic moving at night in the jungle.
470
00:27:15,700 --> 00:27:16,680
It's been a huge,
471
00:27:16,680 --> 00:27:18,120
physically draining day.
472
00:27:20,121 --> 00:27:22,621
(light music)
473
00:27:25,629 --> 00:27:26,462
I am beat.
474
00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:40,310
At first light, the cloud cover
475
00:27:40,310 --> 00:27:41,960
is still hanging over the valley.
476
00:27:44,890 --> 00:27:47,590
The chance of a helicopter rescue is looking unlikely.
477
00:27:49,190 --> 00:27:50,940
The river doesn't look particularly good for it
478
00:27:50,940 --> 00:27:53,050
but everything kinda hinges on us
479
00:27:53,050 --> 00:27:54,700
getting out of here this morning.
480
00:27:55,840 --> 00:27:58,950
Low cloud and rain is not on our side.
481
00:28:03,920 --> 00:28:06,850
But then we get word, the chopper is on its way.
482
00:28:09,463 --> 00:28:12,130
(intense music)
483
00:28:17,690 --> 00:28:20,620
The daredevil pilot has ducked in beneath the clouds.
484
00:28:20,620 --> 00:28:23,410
We have only minutes to tear down camp and load the gear
485
00:28:23,410 --> 00:28:25,370
in case the clouds close in again.
486
00:28:28,132 --> 00:28:33,132
Cannot believe I'm back in a helicopter again.
487
00:28:36,342 --> 00:28:38,410
Our aim is to make a short hop
488
00:28:38,410 --> 00:28:40,090
over this impassable section.
489
00:28:46,150 --> 00:28:49,160
But below us, the river has risen again.
490
00:28:54,610 --> 00:28:56,150
Every minute we're in the air,
491
00:28:56,150 --> 00:28:57,650
we're flying over more of the river
492
00:28:57,650 --> 00:28:59,870
we'd like to paddle and explore.
493
00:28:59,870 --> 00:29:01,250
We scan the gorge,
494
00:29:01,250 --> 00:29:03,620
desperate for water we can actually paddle.`
495
00:29:07,800 --> 00:29:10,832
Nearly 15 kilometers pass below us before we find a place
496
00:29:10,832 --> 00:29:13,120
the heli can set down.
497
00:29:15,400 --> 00:29:17,420
The river's still a raging torrent,
498
00:29:17,420 --> 00:29:19,280
but the hope is that we can paddle from here
499
00:29:19,280 --> 00:29:21,560
to the end of the gorge at South Gap.
500
00:29:26,735 --> 00:29:28,290
We're just very very lucky that the helicopter
501
00:29:28,290 --> 00:29:30,810
could come to our aid and bring us down here
502
00:29:30,810 --> 00:29:33,320
because where we are now, we can start again.
503
00:29:34,630 --> 00:29:36,890
There is still a lot of river left.
504
00:29:36,890 --> 00:29:40,220
A lot of river, like probably 300 kilometers of river left.
505
00:29:53,600 --> 00:29:55,300
As we stop to make camp,
506
00:29:55,300 --> 00:29:57,350
faces emerge from the forest.
507
00:30:08,284 --> 00:30:10,290
They're a Yali hunting party
508
00:30:10,290 --> 00:30:12,940
that has been following our progress from a distance.
509
00:30:14,606 --> 00:30:16,960
I think it's the village that we tried to walk
510
00:30:16,960 --> 00:30:20,210
to yesterday and failed dismally.
511
00:30:21,710 --> 00:30:22,860
But they've come to us.
512
00:30:24,140 --> 00:30:26,400
Their hunting trips can last weeks.
513
00:30:26,400 --> 00:30:28,840
But it hasn't taken them that long to find us.
514
00:30:45,690 --> 00:30:48,560
At last, we've come face to face with the elusive Yali.
515
00:31:03,090 --> 00:31:06,160
They're are intrigued, I think is the word.
516
00:31:06,160 --> 00:31:07,850
Intrigued and interested as to what we're up to
517
00:31:07,850 --> 00:31:09,150
and what we're doing here.
518
00:31:10,650 --> 00:31:12,660
But then, more Yali arrive.
519
00:31:12,660 --> 00:31:14,690
This time with weapons drawn.
520
00:31:50,290 --> 00:31:53,130
New Guinea has huge mineral reserves.
521
00:31:53,130 --> 00:31:55,550
It's home to the world's largest gold mine.
522
00:31:55,550 --> 00:31:57,770
And the third largest copper mine.
523
00:31:57,770 --> 00:31:59,662
But the exploitation of these resources
524
00:31:59,662 --> 00:32:01,660
has often been at the expense
525
00:32:01,660 --> 00:32:04,450
of ingenious people and their lands.
526
00:32:04,450 --> 00:32:06,709
First 20 seconds when he came striding over here
527
00:32:06,709 --> 00:32:11,079
with his bow drawn and a look on his face like thunder
528
00:32:11,079 --> 00:32:14,280
was genuinely scary.
529
00:32:15,860 --> 00:32:16,760
Once they realize
530
00:32:16,760 --> 00:32:19,320
we aren't here to steal from them or from their land,
531
00:32:19,320 --> 00:32:20,460
the mood lifts.
532
00:32:26,270 --> 00:32:28,270
It has an incredible spiral thread
533
00:32:28,270 --> 00:32:29,770
running down the length of it.
534
00:32:37,495 --> 00:32:42,495
Oh wow so that's beaten out of a kind of thing of fuel.
535
00:32:43,470 --> 00:32:46,450
Basically a fuel can that's been beaten into an arrow head.
536
00:32:56,250 --> 00:32:58,600
There's not supposed to be any crocodiles here.
537
00:33:06,824 --> 00:33:07,660
So another 10 kilometers or so down stream
538
00:33:07,660 --> 00:33:10,080
we're gonna hit crocodile country.
539
00:33:10,080 --> 00:33:10,913
The hunters live
540
00:33:10,913 --> 00:33:12,630
a hand to mouth existence.
541
00:33:12,630 --> 00:33:13,610
Catching what they need from
542
00:33:13,610 --> 00:33:15,710
the jungle and the river to survive.
543
00:33:17,671 --> 00:33:20,171
(light music)
544
00:33:21,890 --> 00:33:23,080
It's a tough life.
545
00:33:25,427 --> 00:33:28,550
This man has a nasty machete wound to his hand,
546
00:33:28,550 --> 00:33:29,840
you think you can do anything with it?
547
00:33:29,840 --> 00:33:30,673
Absolutely yeah.
548
00:33:31,900 --> 00:33:33,500
Expedition medic Aldo,
549
00:33:33,500 --> 00:33:35,550
strips away the old rags and moss
550
00:33:35,550 --> 00:33:36,900
they've used as a dressing.
551
00:33:42,730 --> 00:33:44,430
You can see there it's...
552
00:33:46,380 --> 00:33:47,970
It's actually just the skin, it doesn't look like
553
00:33:47,970 --> 00:33:51,110
it's gone done into the tendon there.
554
00:33:51,110 --> 00:33:53,290
The main thing is to clean it up and dress it.
555
00:33:54,130 --> 00:33:55,210
The nearest medical help
556
00:33:55,210 --> 00:33:56,950
is many days away.
557
00:33:56,950 --> 00:33:59,310
It may sound like an exaggeration but a wound like this
558
00:33:59,310 --> 00:34:01,640
out here would definitely get infected.
559
00:34:01,640 --> 00:34:06,220
So Aldo with just a little bit of modern antiseptic
560
00:34:06,220 --> 00:34:08,066
and cleaning and dressing
561
00:34:08,066 --> 00:34:10,380
could actually have saved this guys hand.
562
00:34:13,280 --> 00:34:15,370
These Yali hunters don't seem interested
563
00:34:15,370 --> 00:34:17,130
in heading for a new life in the towns
564
00:34:17,130 --> 00:34:19,090
or working in the mines.
565
00:34:19,090 --> 00:34:21,180
These jungles are home.
566
00:34:28,810 --> 00:34:32,380
The next morning is potentially our last in the Lower Gorge.
567
00:34:33,547 --> 00:34:36,047
(light music)
568
00:34:42,260 --> 00:34:46,600
This felt like the finest king-sized bed in history.
569
00:34:46,600 --> 00:34:48,770
Oh look at that, breakfast in bed.
570
00:34:52,570 --> 00:34:54,410
We're now on the final stretch
571
00:34:54,410 --> 00:34:55,390
of the Lower Gorge.
572
00:34:56,953 --> 00:34:59,453
(light music)
573
00:35:02,030 --> 00:35:02,863
We start early.
574
00:35:08,070 --> 00:35:11,210
The river gets wider and slows.
575
00:35:11,210 --> 00:35:13,660
We're leaving the mountains behind.
576
00:35:15,420 --> 00:35:19,130
And then ahead, we can just make out the smoke of a fire.
577
00:35:19,130 --> 00:35:19,963
South Gap.
578
00:35:22,460 --> 00:35:25,200
We've arranged for motorized longboats to meet us here
579
00:35:25,200 --> 00:35:26,810
to take us on to the coast.
580
00:35:29,781 --> 00:35:32,281
(light music)
581
00:35:40,170 --> 00:35:41,710
When I think about what we've done
582
00:35:41,710 --> 00:35:43,110
over the last three weeks,
583
00:35:44,140 --> 00:35:46,190
the territory we've been through,
584
00:35:46,190 --> 00:35:48,820
the amount of distance we covered,
585
00:35:48,820 --> 00:35:51,250
it's epic, you know.
586
00:35:51,250 --> 00:35:53,830
We've already done something massive.
587
00:35:55,550 --> 00:35:58,490
Clouds are rolling in and the mountains
588
00:35:58,490 --> 00:36:00,100
are gonna disappear pretty soon.
589
00:36:02,150 --> 00:36:03,520
Just one last look.
590
00:36:08,040 --> 00:36:09,560
The long stretch to the coast
591
00:36:09,560 --> 00:36:12,340
would take weeks in kayaks and there's the small matter
592
00:36:12,340 --> 00:36:13,860
of the monster crocs.
593
00:36:13,860 --> 00:36:16,570
Only Aldo and I will continue south to the sea.
594
00:36:17,910 --> 00:36:20,670
The river team will be heading back to civilization.
595
00:36:21,980 --> 00:36:26,980
(singing) I go down to the river tonight.
596
00:36:28,000 --> 00:36:28,833
We got through
597
00:36:28,833 --> 00:36:30,200
the wild water in one piece.
598
00:36:33,620 --> 00:36:37,030
As did a guitar, which they smuggled all this way.
599
00:36:38,225 --> 00:36:43,225
(singing) On down, to the river we ride.
600
00:36:43,573 --> 00:36:46,156
(plays guitar)
601
00:36:48,633 --> 00:36:50,883
(cheering)
602
00:36:59,710 --> 00:37:00,940
This is probably the last chance I have
603
00:37:00,940 --> 00:37:03,350
to splash around in the river like this.
604
00:37:03,350 --> 00:37:06,270
Much downstream of here and we're in croc country.
605
00:37:11,710 --> 00:37:14,510
This is the last leg of our journey.
606
00:37:17,220 --> 00:37:19,480
We've 200 kilometers ahead of us.
607
00:37:19,480 --> 00:37:23,150
Through croc infested swamp, home to the Asmat people,
608
00:37:23,150 --> 00:37:25,670
renowned warriors and once famous for being
609
00:37:25,670 --> 00:37:27,360
headhunting cannibals.
610
00:37:27,360 --> 00:37:30,130
Before our goal, the Pacific Ocean.
611
00:37:33,450 --> 00:37:35,230
As we travel further downstream,
612
00:37:36,610 --> 00:37:38,690
the landscape and the river change.
613
00:37:40,830 --> 00:37:43,180
We're now meandering through lowland jungle.
614
00:37:44,836 --> 00:37:47,336
(light music)
615
00:37:52,030 --> 00:37:57,030
This is one of the last huge unspoiled rain forest
616
00:37:57,812 --> 00:37:59,220
left on Earth.
617
00:38:00,410 --> 00:38:03,440
It is one of the most bio diverse forests there is
618
00:38:03,440 --> 00:38:04,490
on the entire planet.
619
00:38:04,490 --> 00:38:08,110
The amount of species living here is extraordinary.
620
00:38:09,617 --> 00:38:12,367
(birds chirping)
621
00:38:15,120 --> 00:38:20,120
It's a massive colony of flying foxes, giant fruit bats.
622
00:38:21,020 --> 00:38:22,880
And they are truly giant.
623
00:38:22,880 --> 00:38:24,870
The wing-span is well over a meter.
624
00:38:25,850 --> 00:38:28,810
These bats are the largest in the world.
625
00:38:30,930 --> 00:38:35,160
There must be four or five thousand bats in this colony,
626
00:38:35,160 --> 00:38:36,440
it's absolutely huge,
627
00:38:36,440 --> 00:38:38,880
it goes all the way back into the forest.
628
00:38:38,880 --> 00:38:42,800
And although they look like giant vampire bats,
629
00:38:42,800 --> 00:38:44,890
actually they're feeding on fruit.
630
00:38:44,890 --> 00:38:47,040
These are incredibly important animals.
631
00:38:47,040 --> 00:38:49,480
They're one of the most vital disperses
632
00:38:49,480 --> 00:38:51,930
of seed in the rain forest.
633
00:38:51,930 --> 00:38:54,510
So much of the trees in the forest
634
00:38:54,510 --> 00:38:56,429
that we're seeing around us is made possible
635
00:38:56,429 --> 00:38:58,260
because of bats like this.
636
00:39:00,510 --> 00:39:03,660
After two days traveling through jungle,
637
00:39:03,660 --> 00:39:06,590
we get our first glimpses of people living by the river.
638
00:39:08,680 --> 00:39:10,300
We're in the land of the Asmat.
639
00:39:13,780 --> 00:39:16,420
Many of the Asmat remained uncontacted at the end
640
00:39:16,420 --> 00:39:18,120
of the 20th century.
641
00:39:18,120 --> 00:39:20,140
They're are probably wild corners that have yet to meet
642
00:39:20,140 --> 00:39:21,510
the modern world.
643
00:39:22,530 --> 00:39:26,170
They've lived here for a staggering 30 thousand years.
644
00:39:26,170 --> 00:39:28,810
But how are they coping with the 21st century?
645
00:39:28,810 --> 00:39:32,008
What impact is it having on their ancient traditions.
646
00:39:32,008 --> 00:39:35,290
We're just pulling into a village called Yaosakor.
647
00:39:36,398 --> 00:39:38,800
This is the first settlement that we've actually seen marked
648
00:39:38,800 --> 00:39:41,950
on a map for about 10 days since we left the highlands.
649
00:39:43,260 --> 00:39:45,810
This looks like the traditional longhouse up ahead.
650
00:39:48,740 --> 00:39:49,920
There are Asmat villages
651
00:39:49,920 --> 00:39:51,930
scattered all through the jungle.
652
00:39:51,930 --> 00:39:53,920
But Yaosakor is one of the largest.
653
00:39:57,022 --> 00:40:01,355
(speaks foreign language)
654
00:40:03,051 --> 00:40:04,562
The prize is forgetting how the people of this village
655
00:40:04,562 --> 00:40:08,980
make their living and what their main food source is here.
656
00:40:10,580 --> 00:40:12,210
The village is built on two-meter
657
00:40:12,210 --> 00:40:15,560
high stilts to protect the houses from river floods.
658
00:40:15,560 --> 00:40:17,956
With raised walkways connecting private dwellings
659
00:40:17,956 --> 00:40:19,640
and communal buildings.
660
00:40:20,870 --> 00:40:23,620
The longhouse is the traditional center of the village.
661
00:40:23,620 --> 00:40:25,920
Where the elders hold important meetings.
662
00:40:28,310 --> 00:40:31,460
As we've seen throughout Papua, elders are the most
663
00:40:31,460 --> 00:40:33,480
respected members of the community.
664
00:40:33,480 --> 00:40:34,900
Guardians of their culture.
665
00:40:36,380 --> 00:40:38,440
Ernes is one of the village elders.
666
00:41:16,854 --> 00:41:20,630
The river is at the heart of everything they do.
667
00:41:20,630 --> 00:41:22,256
They come from the river and when they die,
668
00:41:22,256 --> 00:41:23,920
they go back to its source.
669
00:41:26,330 --> 00:41:27,870
The river may be a vital part of
670
00:41:27,870 --> 00:41:31,430
Asmat life and culture, but it's murky waters
671
00:41:31,430 --> 00:41:33,280
hide real life monsters.
672
00:41:34,290 --> 00:41:35,681
The saltwater crocodiles that live here
673
00:41:35,681 --> 00:41:38,180
are the largest reptiles on Earth.
674
00:42:17,690 --> 00:42:19,488
Quite often actually crocodiles are seen as a symbol
675
00:42:19,488 --> 00:42:23,780
of great power and there's sorta respect for them.
676
00:42:23,780 --> 00:42:26,538
Here in this village that's definitely not the case.
677
00:42:26,538 --> 00:42:29,380
The crocodile is pure evil.
678
00:42:31,660 --> 00:42:33,040
Just seven years ago,
679
00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:35,860
the village was terrorized by a huge crocodile.
680
00:42:36,792 --> 00:42:39,580
Oh my goodness.
681
00:42:40,510 --> 00:42:44,250
That's the biggest croc skull I've ever seen in my life.
682
00:42:53,159 --> 00:42:55,220
This is from a saltwater crocodile.
683
00:42:55,220 --> 00:42:56,890
Which is the biggest species of reptile,
684
00:42:56,890 --> 00:42:58,640
the biggest species of crocodilian.
685
00:42:58,640 --> 00:43:01,410
Look at the size of those teeth there.
686
00:43:01,410 --> 00:43:06,410
This was a nearly five meter long crocodile.
687
00:43:06,540 --> 00:43:09,580
I kinda quite struggled to lift it with my hands.
688
00:43:09,580 --> 00:43:12,580
But look how broad the skull is.
689
00:43:13,720 --> 00:43:17,770
A crocodile like this could weigh three quarters of a ton.
690
00:43:17,770 --> 00:43:19,590
It's often said that these rivers in New Guinea
691
00:43:19,590 --> 00:43:21,760
have the largest crocodiles in the world.
692
00:43:21,760 --> 00:43:24,740
And this proves that that is absolutely true.
693
00:43:36,873 --> 00:43:38,330
17 people.
694
00:43:38,330 --> 00:43:41,810
And then one of the people here killed it with a spear.
695
00:43:41,810 --> 00:43:43,120
Just like that one.
696
00:43:43,120 --> 00:43:46,000
It was basically eating its way through the village.
697
00:43:46,000 --> 00:43:49,830
When it was alive, this would have been a true monster.
698
00:43:49,830 --> 00:43:53,730
It really does bring it home how difficult life must be
699
00:43:53,730 --> 00:43:54,930
in a village like this.
700
00:43:55,799 --> 00:43:57,230
Knowing that every time you go out to the waters edge
701
00:43:57,230 --> 00:43:59,380
there could be something like this waiting.
702
00:44:05,380 --> 00:44:06,580
For though saltwater crocodiles
703
00:44:06,580 --> 00:44:08,870
are legally protected here,
704
00:44:08,870 --> 00:44:10,460
the Asmat are allowed to hunt
705
00:44:10,460 --> 00:44:12,290
and trade them in small numbers.
706
00:44:15,750 --> 00:44:19,032
Obviously it's sad that an animal of that size
707
00:44:19,032 --> 00:44:23,970
has been killed, but at the same time if you live
708
00:44:23,970 --> 00:44:28,640
in a place like this and an animal takes 17 of your
709
00:44:28,640 --> 00:44:31,040
friends and family from the river,
710
00:44:31,040 --> 00:44:34,080
then obviously you've gotta kill it.
711
00:44:37,050 --> 00:44:39,467
(thundering)
712
00:44:45,960 --> 00:44:47,450
As the heavens open,
713
00:44:47,450 --> 00:44:49,350
the Asmat all come together.
714
00:44:56,620 --> 00:44:58,370
Normally the longhouse is men only.
715
00:44:59,620 --> 00:45:03,085
But today the whole village is here to sing, dance
716
00:45:03,085 --> 00:45:05,680
and share their ancient tales.
717
00:45:10,720 --> 00:45:12,770
To help celebrate the village gathering,
718
00:45:12,770 --> 00:45:14,270
a feast is being prepared.
719
00:45:15,910 --> 00:45:17,650
And this time it's not crocodile.
720
00:45:18,700 --> 00:45:20,400
But one of the villagers own pigs
721
00:45:20,400 --> 00:45:22,480
that's about to be slaughtered.
722
00:45:23,827 --> 00:45:26,494
(beating drums)
723
00:45:38,350 --> 00:45:40,650
The pig will provide enough food for all 12
724
00:45:40,650 --> 00:45:42,140
of the village clans.
725
00:45:42,140 --> 00:45:44,760
And Aldo and I are honored to be included.
726
00:45:49,670 --> 00:45:52,870
Before the feast begins, some what incongruously,
727
00:45:52,870 --> 00:45:54,960
the village head says prayers.
728
00:46:07,400 --> 00:46:09,460
Missionaries have been converting the Asmat
729
00:46:09,460 --> 00:46:13,870
and other Papuan tribes to Christianity since the 1950's.
730
00:46:13,870 --> 00:46:16,093
The missionaries persuaded many tribes to leave behind
731
00:46:16,093 --> 00:46:18,130
headhunting and cannibalism
732
00:46:30,396 --> 00:46:33,280
Although much of Yaosakor is normally Christian,
733
00:46:33,280 --> 00:46:36,440
traditional Animist beliefs are still the dominant force.
734
00:46:45,830 --> 00:46:48,890
Their traditions run deep, often Christianity
735
00:46:48,890 --> 00:46:52,120
has simply been incorporated into their older beliefs.
736
00:46:52,120 --> 00:46:53,454
Beliefs that everything in nature
737
00:46:53,454 --> 00:46:55,787
possesses a spiritual force.
738
00:46:55,787 --> 00:46:58,037
(drumming)
739
00:47:01,710 --> 00:47:04,090
The drumming continues late into the night.
740
00:47:04,090 --> 00:47:06,720
The elders singing ancient Asmat poems
741
00:47:06,720 --> 00:47:08,500
which can last for many days.
742
00:47:12,800 --> 00:47:15,150
It's quite late now in the longhouse.
743
00:47:15,150 --> 00:47:19,110
And the drumming finished a little while ago
744
00:47:19,110 --> 00:47:21,130
but there's still lots of people milling around,
745
00:47:21,130 --> 00:47:24,200
sitting, chatting, sitting around fires.
746
00:47:24,200 --> 00:47:27,140
And this will go on all night long I guess.
747
00:47:27,140 --> 00:47:30,032
I'm probably not gonna get an enormous amount of sleep here.
748
00:47:30,032 --> 00:47:34,162
But it's one night in a lifetime
749
00:47:34,162 --> 00:47:36,439
so I'm just gonna enjoy it.
750
00:47:36,439 --> 00:47:39,272
(people chatting)
751
00:47:49,010 --> 00:47:50,330
The Asmat's main contact
752
00:47:50,330 --> 00:47:53,090
with the outside world has been through art.
753
00:47:53,090 --> 00:47:54,520
Their carvings are treasured by
754
00:47:54,520 --> 00:47:56,390
anthropologists and collectors.
755
00:47:59,090 --> 00:48:01,820
Beyond Yaosakor, the Asmat region is a morass
756
00:48:01,820 --> 00:48:03,190
of tangled forest.
757
00:48:04,050 --> 00:48:06,710
Most settlements are just a few shacks.
758
00:48:06,710 --> 00:48:09,700
If the modern world was going to change the Asmat anywhere,
759
00:48:09,700 --> 00:48:10,640
it would be here.
760
00:48:11,910 --> 00:48:13,560
But life in Yaosakor continues
761
00:48:13,560 --> 00:48:15,990
as it has done for generations.
762
00:48:15,990 --> 00:48:17,610
You have to travel 100 kilometers
763
00:48:17,610 --> 00:48:19,330
to get any signal for that phone.
764
00:48:20,660 --> 00:48:23,350
It seems to me, a few tin roof society,
765
00:48:23,350 --> 00:48:25,900
the modernity hasn't got much appeal.
766
00:48:25,900 --> 00:48:28,170
My new friends say they like things just the way
767
00:48:28,170 --> 00:48:29,170
they've always been.
768
00:48:41,710 --> 00:48:44,863
We're now just hours away from completing our month-long
769
00:48:44,863 --> 00:48:47,970
500 kilometer expedition.
770
00:48:47,970 --> 00:48:50,640
From the central highlands to the Pacific Ocean.
771
00:48:54,150 --> 00:48:56,140
Four weeks ago we were studs
772
00:48:56,140 --> 00:48:59,360
up at Habema, the source of the Baliem.
773
00:48:59,360 --> 00:49:03,150
At it was a trek, a hop skip and a jump across it.
774
00:49:03,150 --> 00:49:05,940
And now coming to the sea at the end of the journey
775
00:49:05,940 --> 00:49:10,700
some four weeks later and it's four or five kilometers wide.
776
00:49:10,700 --> 00:49:11,970
Look at the size of it.
777
00:49:13,690 --> 00:49:15,470
There's no doubt our journey
778
00:49:16,777 --> 00:49:19,667
has been a challenging one.
779
00:49:19,667 --> 00:49:23,847
It's proved to be much tougher than I ever imagined.
780
00:49:23,847 --> 00:49:25,601
And things have rarely gone according to plan.
781
00:49:25,601 --> 00:49:26,434
The history of exploration of expeditions
782
00:49:29,677 --> 00:49:32,569
is a history of cataclysmic failures.
783
00:49:32,569 --> 00:49:36,033
Even the very greatest of explorers
784
00:49:36,033 --> 00:49:36,866
had impossible challenges, you know,
785
00:49:39,156 --> 00:49:43,281
Shackleton and Scott probably the two best known
786
00:49:43,281 --> 00:49:46,227
British adventurers, are best known for their failures.
787
00:49:46,227 --> 00:49:49,540
And in those terms, actually this has been a success.
788
00:49:50,380 --> 00:49:52,820
We have traveled from the source to the sea
789
00:49:52,820 --> 00:49:54,820
and been the first people ever to do it.
790
00:49:56,000 --> 00:49:58,720
Admittedly, more of that has been done in motor boats
791
00:49:58,720 --> 00:50:00,800
and helicopters than I would have chosen.
792
00:50:01,806 --> 00:50:05,320
But I think it is the nature of expeditions
793
00:50:05,320 --> 00:50:08,420
that there are going to be challenges.
794
00:50:08,420 --> 00:50:10,319
And if there aren't, then it probably doesn't
795
00:50:10,319 --> 00:50:12,070
qualify as a expedition.
796
00:50:17,570 --> 00:50:20,070
Finally, our goal is in sight.
797
00:50:21,820 --> 00:50:24,570
(dramatic music)
798
00:50:27,320 --> 00:50:28,760
It's the sea.
799
00:50:31,380 --> 00:50:33,490
After everything we've been through,
800
00:50:33,490 --> 00:50:35,060
all the challenges we've had,
801
00:50:35,940 --> 00:50:38,790
to come down here, all of a sudden it kinda feels like
802
00:50:38,790 --> 00:50:41,330
every single bit of it has been worthwhile.
803
00:50:42,210 --> 00:50:45,850
This was all about doing the first ever source to sea
804
00:50:45,850 --> 00:50:46,683
of the Baliem river.
805
00:50:46,683 --> 00:50:48,410
It was all about the challenge but it just become
806
00:50:48,410 --> 00:50:50,390
so much more than that.
807
00:50:52,070 --> 00:50:53,410
It's been truly remarkable
808
00:50:53,410 --> 00:50:56,490
to get an understanding of just how this mighty river
809
00:50:56,490 --> 00:51:00,300
has breathed life into this corner of the world.
810
00:51:00,300 --> 00:51:02,174
To see how it's shaped the landscape,
811
00:51:02,174 --> 00:51:05,273
created a habitat for unique wildlife.
812
00:51:05,273 --> 00:51:07,914
And how it's made a home for the ancient tribes
813
00:51:07,914 --> 00:51:10,010
who thrive along its banks.
814
00:51:11,830 --> 00:51:14,789
This place is always gonna have a really special
815
00:51:14,789 --> 00:51:18,440
part of my heart, and look at that.
816
00:51:21,331 --> 00:51:24,164
(dramatic music)
61435
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