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The Niger River brought me to the
heart of the Sahara but no further.
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00:00:49,160 --> 00:00:54,000
From here on, the only ships
I'll see are ships of the desert
3
00:00:54,000 --> 00:00:59,160
and where better to get acquainted
with them than the city of Timbuktu?
4
00:00:59,280 --> 00:01:02,320
CAMEL GROANS
5
00:01:05,400 --> 00:01:08,240
Well, I've reached Timbuktu.
6
00:01:08,240 --> 00:01:12,200
CAMEL GRUNTS
I said I've reached Timbuktu.
7
00:01:12,200 --> 00:01:16,360
CAMEL GRUNTS
Not again - I've reached Timbuktu!
8
00:01:16,360 --> 00:01:19,640
And...back in the Sahara,
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00:01:19,640 --> 00:01:23,880
for the first time
in the land of the Tuareg,
10
00:01:23,880 --> 00:01:29,040
the Saharan nomad traders who
founded Timbuktu about 800 years ago
as a trading post
11
00:01:30,680 --> 00:01:35,040
for that most precious commodity
of the Sahara - salt.
12
00:01:35,040 --> 00:01:39,280
The extraordinary thing is that
still today
13
00:01:39,280 --> 00:01:44,400
the salt is brought down on camels
in these great tablets,
as it was all those years ago,
14
00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:50,080
from the mines
800km up into the desert.
15
00:01:50,080 --> 00:01:54,760
Nothing's really changed, has it?
Well, you've changed, but...
16
00:01:54,760 --> 00:01:59,440
you look the same as the original
camels and herders, don't you?
17
00:01:59,440 --> 00:02:04,440
How is it lugging all that salt
around? It must be sheer hell!
18
00:02:04,440 --> 00:02:07,160
Is it nice now it's finished?
19
00:02:07,160 --> 00:02:10,160
CAMEL GRUNTS
Yeah.
20
00:02:10,160 --> 00:02:13,040
'But things HAVE changed.'
21
00:02:13,040 --> 00:02:18,040
Today, the Tuareg are more likely to
be found camped against the walls,
22
00:02:18,040 --> 00:02:20,840
sheltering from the desert,
23
00:02:20,840 --> 00:02:23,960
and the walls aren't what they were.
24
00:02:23,960 --> 00:02:26,960
Once inside the crumbling ramparts,
25
00:02:26,960 --> 00:02:30,760
it's hard to tell
what it is about this desert city
26
00:02:30,760 --> 00:02:33,680
that has enthralled travellers
27
00:02:33,680 --> 00:02:38,600
and why it is that so many risked
their lives to reach these streets.
28
00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:46,120
This mosque is evidence
of the golden age of Timbuktu.
29
00:02:49,520 --> 00:02:53,440
El-Saheli,
inventor of mud-brick architecture,
30
00:02:53,440 --> 00:02:58,520
designed and built it for Mansa
Moussa, the immensely rich emperor,
31
00:02:58,640 --> 00:03:02,600
at a time when Mali
was the greatest empire in Africa.
32
00:03:04,280 --> 00:03:09,480
This great mosque here at Timbuktu
is an extraordinarily powerful
and quietly affecting building.
33
00:03:11,240 --> 00:03:14,360
It's built on almost 100 columns
34
00:03:14,360 --> 00:03:18,000
and it creates
a sort of forest of cool
35
00:03:18,000 --> 00:03:20,880
in this cauldron of heat outside.
36
00:03:20,880 --> 00:03:24,560
It was originally constructed
in 1325
37
00:03:24,560 --> 00:03:28,200
and the sheer scale of the place
is testimony
38
00:03:28,200 --> 00:03:32,400
to the power of the Islamic presence
in the Middle Ages.
39
00:03:42,400 --> 00:03:45,120
# Allahu akbar. #
40
00:03:51,360 --> 00:03:56,240
It's Friday in Timbuktu, the
holiest day of the week for Muslims,
41
00:03:56,240 --> 00:04:00,760
and, after prayers, the imam
invites me back to his house.
42
00:04:04,960 --> 00:04:09,520
16th century. Alors, tu vois
maintenant la lune, le soleil...
43
00:04:09,520 --> 00:04:14,680
'The imam has scientific texts
that clearly show
the planets circling the sun.
44
00:04:16,040 --> 00:04:21,160
'They date back hundreds of years,
preserved by the dry desert air.
45
00:04:21,160 --> 00:04:26,280
'It's convincing evidence that the
scholars of Timbuktu knew a lot more
than their counterparts in Europe.'
46
00:04:28,080 --> 00:04:33,280
In 15th-century Timbuktu, the
mathematicians knew about rotation
of the planets and the eclipse.
47
00:04:35,000 --> 00:04:39,800
They knew things we had to wait
for 150 years to know in Europe,
48
00:04:39,800 --> 00:04:44,560
when Galileo and Copernicus came up
with these same calculations...
49
00:04:46,160 --> 00:04:49,000
..and were given a hard time for it.
50
00:04:51,680 --> 00:04:53,920
CHILDREN RECITE THE KORAN
51
00:04:55,400 --> 00:04:57,160
In another part of the imam's house
52
00:04:57,160 --> 00:05:00,800
is a school
where children learn the Koran.
53
00:05:00,800 --> 00:05:03,880
On est en train de lutter
54
00:05:03,880 --> 00:05:07,880
afin que Tombouctou retrouve
son visage d'avant...
55
00:05:07,880 --> 00:05:13,000
He explained to me that he hopes
that Timbuktu can one day regain
some of its former glory
56
00:05:15,480 --> 00:05:19,720
and become once again
the great centre of scholarship.
57
00:05:19,720 --> 00:05:23,720
..que Tombouctou puisse retrouver
sa culture d'avant.
58
00:05:23,720 --> 00:05:26,720
CHILDREN RECITE
59
00:05:28,280 --> 00:05:32,480
After the Middle Ages,
Timbuktu slid into decline,
60
00:05:32,480 --> 00:05:37,560
but its mystique grew, stoked by the
fact that no-one could get to it.
61
00:05:37,800 --> 00:05:41,680
In 1826, a Scot, Alexander Laing,
rediscovered Timbuktu.
62
00:05:41,680 --> 00:05:44,280
'His house is for sale, if you
fancy a weekend hideaway.'
63
00:05:44,280 --> 00:05:47,400
Over a period of about 350 years,
64
00:05:47,400 --> 00:05:51,400
43 separate people
tried to get to Timbuktu
65
00:05:51,400 --> 00:05:55,480
and only four of them succeeded.
Laing was the first.
66
00:05:55,480 --> 00:05:59,520
When he got here,
it looked pretty much like this.
67
00:05:59,520 --> 00:06:04,480
It was certainly not the fabled city
of wealth that he'd expected.
68
00:06:04,480 --> 00:06:08,280
He stayed for a while
and they were hospitable.
69
00:06:08,280 --> 00:06:13,520
As he went home, he fell out with
the people who were taking him back.
They asked him to convert to Islam.
70
00:06:15,280 --> 00:06:19,520
He said no,
so they cut his head off, aged 33.
71
00:06:19,520 --> 00:06:24,560
That was the end of Laing, but his
house is here and it's available.
72
00:06:24,560 --> 00:06:29,760
I can see myself festering here,
gazing mournfully back at the past,
73
00:06:30,120 --> 00:06:32,840
but the desert beckons.
74
00:06:32,840 --> 00:06:36,920
East of Timbuktu,
the Sahara is virtually inaccessible
75
00:06:36,920 --> 00:06:41,160
to all but the nomads
who move their cattle across it.
76
00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:46,000
Each year, they have a get-together
at Ingal, in the Republic of Niger.
77
00:06:51,160 --> 00:06:56,360
These are the Wodaabe - a tall,
elegant people thought originally
to have come from Ethiopia.
78
00:06:58,040 --> 00:07:01,680
They walk and ride
hundreds of miles a year,
79
00:07:01,680 --> 00:07:04,520
seeking pasture for their cattle.
80
00:07:08,000 --> 00:07:11,600
They move camp
every six or seven days,
81
00:07:11,600 --> 00:07:14,680
so all they own must be portable.
82
00:07:16,680 --> 00:07:19,720
GIRL SPEAKS TO DONKEY
83
00:07:22,200 --> 00:07:27,440
Rains have brought food and water
and they must take advantage of the
conditions to fatten their cattle.
84
00:07:31,040 --> 00:07:36,000
The Wodaabe grow no food, so without
the animals, they would not survive.
85
00:07:38,080 --> 00:07:42,120
The fattening of the animals
on the salt grass
86
00:07:42,120 --> 00:07:46,880
is celebrated at an annual festival
called Cure Salee -
87
00:07:46,880 --> 00:07:49,440
the salt cure.
88
00:07:49,440 --> 00:07:54,600
This great gathering of the
nomadic clans is now only days away.
89
00:07:54,760 --> 00:07:59,160
'One of their spokesmen -
they don't have chiefs - is Doulla.'
90
00:07:59,160 --> 00:08:03,440
Tous les gens de meme famille?
One pere, one mere...
91
00:08:03,440 --> 00:08:05,600
Ah, oui.
92
00:08:05,600 --> 00:08:10,440
'In a combination of French
and a little English, he explains
93
00:08:10,440 --> 00:08:14,960
'that everyone in this group
comes from the same family line.'
94
00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:17,040
Perri!
95
00:08:17,040 --> 00:08:21,720
Ah, Perri. Qui est Perri?
Je te presente Perri. Ah, ca va?
96
00:08:21,720 --> 00:08:27,000
'He introduces me to Perri, sporting
heavy-duty Austrian sunglasses,
97
00:08:27,360 --> 00:08:30,240
'which I never see him remove.
98
00:08:30,240 --> 00:08:33,880
'Though Perri looks
like the Godfather,
99
00:08:33,880 --> 00:08:37,880
'Doulla assures me
he's only the brother-in-law.'
100
00:08:37,880 --> 00:08:41,000
..comme il est cher. Ah, oui.
101
00:08:41,000 --> 00:08:45,640
The obvious non-family member
is a French student called Celine,
102
00:08:45,640 --> 00:08:48,720
who's been living with the group.
103
00:08:48,720 --> 00:08:53,960
She shares everything. The contents
of her medicine bag are in demand.
104
00:08:54,560 --> 00:08:59,760
What are relationships like among
the Wodaabe between men and women?
105
00:09:00,080 --> 00:09:05,040
Some of them have three or four
wives. Are there problems there?
106
00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:08,800
It's a free life here.
The woman is...
107
00:09:08,800 --> 00:09:12,280
I can't say free,
but more or less free,
108
00:09:12,280 --> 00:09:16,760
like all around the world
are free women. So, she can...
109
00:09:16,760 --> 00:09:22,000
She is with her husband. Yes.
But if she want, she can leave him.
110
00:09:22,200 --> 00:09:25,240
She can go to... She can go...
111
00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:29,160
She can go to...with another man.
112
00:09:29,160 --> 00:09:31,200
They're quite liberated sexually.
113
00:09:31,200 --> 00:09:33,840
More or less, yes. Yeah.
114
00:09:35,360 --> 00:09:39,120
It's important for them to look
beautiful. Yes, very important.
115
00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:44,120
When a man choose a woman
or when a woman choose a man,
116
00:09:44,280 --> 00:09:48,400
the first thing they look
is the beauty of the person.
117
00:09:48,400 --> 00:09:51,440
MEN SING
118
00:09:51,440 --> 00:09:54,480
This must be one of the most
extraordinary beauty contests
119
00:09:54,480 --> 00:09:55,960
I've ever seen.
120
00:09:55,960 --> 00:09:57,600
It's called the Gerewol,
121
00:09:57,600 --> 00:10:01,320
and it is a sort of Wodaabe
equivalent of the high school hop.
122
00:10:01,320 --> 00:10:06,120
The young men go to enormous lengths
to make themselves irresistible.
123
00:10:06,120 --> 00:10:09,160
This means plenty of make up,
exotic hairdressing,
124
00:10:09,160 --> 00:10:12,320
the ability to repeat the same song
and the same movement
125
00:10:12,320 --> 00:10:14,800
for hours on end,
and some very fancy eye work.
126
00:10:25,440 --> 00:10:28,280
How long do they dance for?
127
00:10:28,280 --> 00:10:33,240
Something like seven days.
Seven days? Yeah. Seven days?!
128
00:10:40,040 --> 00:10:42,080
Now it's the girls' turn.
129
00:10:42,080 --> 00:10:45,120
Once decked out in all their finery
by doting mothers,
130
00:10:45,120 --> 00:10:48,160
aunts and grannies, they will parade
in front of the boys,
131
00:10:48,160 --> 00:10:50,800
and make their choice of partner.
132
00:10:54,440 --> 00:10:58,880
They look very beautiful,
very young, and rather frightened.
133
00:10:58,880 --> 00:11:02,560
MEN SING
134
00:11:14,160 --> 00:11:18,400
Now comes the time for the girls
to play their part in the ceremony.
135
00:11:24,520 --> 00:11:26,240
Now is the...
136
00:11:26,240 --> 00:11:31,400
Do they come forward. Yes. People
like a woman, want to choisi.
137
00:11:32,680 --> 00:11:35,000
Though the girls have
the right to choose,
138
00:11:35,000 --> 00:11:38,240
it looks to be more of an ordeal
than a privilege.
139
00:11:38,240 --> 00:11:41,840
Their choice must be made
in full view, for everyone to see.
140
00:11:46,640 --> 00:11:49,120
Nerves are beginning to show.
141
00:12:04,240 --> 00:12:06,840
And do the girls...
Do they choose...
142
00:12:06,840 --> 00:12:09,040
They choose one boy? Yes, yes.
143
00:12:09,040 --> 00:12:10,840
They go up and they put
their hand on him?
144
00:12:10,840 --> 00:12:12,920
Yes, maybe one woman, maybe two.
145
00:12:12,920 --> 00:12:15,200
Ah. If you're supposed to... Ah.
146
00:12:15,200 --> 00:12:16,160
Yes.
147
00:12:18,360 --> 00:12:20,600
Guided
by the mistress of ceremonies,
148
00:12:20,600 --> 00:12:23,640
each girl walks the line
until contact is made,
149
00:12:23,640 --> 00:12:26,360
and the choice announced
in the traditional way.
150
00:12:28,960 --> 00:12:32,560
WOMAN CALLS OUT
151
00:12:33,720 --> 00:12:37,640
Now the worst is over. Her chosen
one will meet up with her later.
152
00:12:37,640 --> 00:12:39,160
He's hers for the night.
153
00:12:43,520 --> 00:12:46,000
COW MOOS
154
00:12:52,080 --> 00:12:54,120
Next morning, over breakfast,
155
00:12:54,120 --> 00:12:57,520
I meet a boy and a girl who got
together at last year's Gerewol.
156
00:13:00,920 --> 00:13:05,280
Raine, tucking into millet porridge,
was chosen by Goode,
157
00:13:05,280 --> 00:13:09,360
and they now have to decide whether
they want to get married or not.
158
00:13:09,360 --> 00:13:11,440
This is not a marriage
for the parents...
159
00:13:11,440 --> 00:13:13,600
Non - non c'est past mariage
pour les parents.
160
00:13:13,600 --> 00:13:17,040
..so they love each other and sort
of like each other? Voila. Yeah.
161
00:13:17,040 --> 00:13:20,360
It's a...mariage pour l'amour.
162
00:13:20,360 --> 00:13:21,520
Oui. Yes.
163
00:13:22,960 --> 00:13:26,400
'Doulla explains that although
they've been lovers for a year,
164
00:13:26,400 --> 00:13:28,640
'Goode wants to go to Cure Salee
165
00:13:28,640 --> 00:13:32,920
'and see how Raine shapes up
in the big Gerewol dance.'
166
00:13:32,920 --> 00:13:37,080
Le garcon... Yeah...
..qui danse bien... Oh, yes, I see.
167
00:13:37,080 --> 00:13:40,240
'If he dances well,
sings well and looks good,
168
00:13:40,240 --> 00:13:42,680
'she'll very likely
decide to be his wife.'
169
00:13:42,680 --> 00:13:46,680
..danse, comme il va faire,
et apres vont faire la mariage.
170
00:13:46,680 --> 00:13:48,920
Then they can claim the family bed,
171
00:13:48,920 --> 00:13:51,800
the most important of all
Wodaabe status symbols.
172
00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:55,720
CATTLE MOO
173
00:13:55,720 --> 00:13:59,920
But until Cure Salee is over,
Goode's keeping everyone guessing.
174
00:14:22,240 --> 00:14:23,680
Well, we're on our way.
175
00:14:23,680 --> 00:14:28,320
The great Wodaabe family outing
has begun to Cure Salee,
176
00:14:28,320 --> 00:14:33,480
which is an enormous festival
where all the nomads come together
for this great once-yearly event.
177
00:14:35,120 --> 00:14:40,320
I'm not sure quite what goes on -
all sorts of festivities, dancing -
and it's just a bit of a long walk.
178
00:14:42,080 --> 00:14:44,240
Coming!
179
00:14:51,440 --> 00:14:54,360
SPEECH INAUDIBLE
180
00:15:18,360 --> 00:15:23,240
The town where Cure Salee is
celebrated is 60 miles from the camp
181
00:15:23,240 --> 00:15:27,080
and no, I admit it,
I don't walk the whole way.
182
00:15:27,080 --> 00:15:31,840
I ride to Ingal in a bush taxi
with 15 Wodaabe crammed on board,
183
00:15:31,840 --> 00:15:36,360
reducing their travelling time
from two days to two hours.
184
00:15:36,360 --> 00:15:39,440
Well, we've now reached... Foma.
185
00:15:39,440 --> 00:15:42,520
Foma. It means "hello" in Wodaabe.
186
00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:46,920
We've reached the big city.
It isn't a big city at all.
187
00:15:46,920 --> 00:15:51,040
This is Ingal and it's where
Cure Salee takes place.
188
00:15:51,040 --> 00:15:53,800
After where we were, it's a shock,
189
00:15:53,800 --> 00:15:57,720
because there's walls, there's cars,
there's police.
190
00:15:57,720 --> 00:16:01,480
There are people
looking to rent out property.
191
00:16:01,480 --> 00:16:06,520
They've got this courtyard from some
Hausa boys. Probably at a high rent.
192
00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:11,960
It's not totally comfortable here.
Country boys come to the big city.
193
00:16:12,280 --> 00:16:17,440
There are lots of their families out
there, but they haven't found them.
194
00:16:17,640 --> 00:16:22,720
It's just very different and there's
a slightly hostile, cautious feeling
195
00:16:22,720 --> 00:16:26,760
about it all. Salut. Hello. Foma.
How are you?
196
00:16:28,200 --> 00:16:33,280
They're so lovely. They walk at this
gentle pace and out there is mayhem.
197
00:16:42,840 --> 00:16:48,080
Cure Salee is everything -
a party, trade fair, highland games,
sports day and agricultural show.
198
00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:52,400
For one week a year,
199
00:16:52,400 --> 00:16:56,040
this little backwater
is filled to bursting,
200
00:16:56,040 --> 00:17:00,760
as thousands come to eat and drink,
buy and sell, see and be seen,
201
00:17:00,760 --> 00:17:04,160
race camels and generally celebrate
202
00:17:04,160 --> 00:17:07,200
living in a land without boundaries.
203
00:17:07,200 --> 00:17:09,440
SHRIEKS
204
00:17:09,440 --> 00:17:14,160
Un ami? 'For Doulla and Perri,
it's also a chance to go shopping.'
205
00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:17,440
Alaykum as-salaam. Marhaba.
206
00:17:17,440 --> 00:17:22,000
Halak zain. Halak zain. Halak muhhi.
I don't know all the rest.
207
00:17:22,000 --> 00:17:24,680
I only know the start.
208
00:17:24,680 --> 00:17:28,520
There's 17 different things
we have to say.
209
00:17:28,520 --> 00:17:33,800
So, what are we going to buy? I want
to buy the sugar. Sugar. Sucre.
210
00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:37,480
For 80 personnes, so...
80 personnes.
211
00:17:37,480 --> 00:17:41,480
So, that's 80 people
you're getting provisions for.
212
00:17:42,520 --> 00:17:45,200
Will you stay four days here?
213
00:17:45,200 --> 00:17:49,040
I don't know.
I want to dance and see people.
214
00:17:49,040 --> 00:17:52,480
So, you're going to buy new clothes
here?
215
00:17:52,480 --> 00:17:55,160
I want to come see this man.
216
00:17:57,800 --> 00:18:02,680
Perri's a bit of a dude, isn't he?
Perri always looks rather dashing.
217
00:18:02,680 --> 00:18:05,520
Mine is... Is this new too? Oui.
218
00:18:05,520 --> 00:18:08,440
This is very old. That's old.
219
00:18:08,440 --> 00:18:12,680
Yeah. Not very well worn.
Oh, yes, look at that.
220
00:18:12,680 --> 00:18:15,240
Something like this.
221
00:18:15,240 --> 00:18:20,360
You're so much... The clothes are
so much more interesting than mine.
222
00:18:20,360 --> 00:18:25,560
It's nothing. These trousers, here
they are in beige! It's good, too.
223
00:18:25,800 --> 00:18:31,080
I like these. Me too, I like them.
You like them? People like this.
224
00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:32,480
MICHAEL LAUGHS
225
00:18:34,680 --> 00:18:36,640
Bonjour!
226
00:18:40,080 --> 00:18:43,320
Qu'est-ce que c'est, ce chose ici?
227
00:18:43,320 --> 00:18:46,320
Ca, c'est le... C'est du sel.
228
00:18:46,320 --> 00:18:49,200
Oh, that's salt? Yeah. Sel.
229
00:18:49,200 --> 00:18:53,040
Du sel. It looks like solid bars.
C'est de Bilma.
230
00:18:53,040 --> 00:18:58,200
Ah - this is salt from Bilma, where
the caravans go. Pour les caravanes.
231
00:18:58,720 --> 00:19:03,000
The salt trade
is the oldest in the Sahara,
232
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:06,840
but Cure Salee
is not stuck in the past.
233
00:19:06,840 --> 00:19:11,520
It's a bit hot for ski-ing. Yes.
In the evening you can do.
234
00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:16,000
Do you ski on sand?
Yeah, on sand. Ski for the desert.
235
00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:20,440
Yeah? Ski on desert, yeah.
Do you sink into the sand?
236
00:19:20,440 --> 00:19:24,600
I have picture for these skis.
Have you got one? Yes.
237
00:19:24,600 --> 00:19:27,160
Let me show it first. OK.
238
00:19:27,160 --> 00:19:31,240
These are European skis,
the same as snow skis? Yes.
239
00:19:31,240 --> 00:19:35,000
Same as snow skis.
Comment tu t'appelles?
240
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:40,160
Mon nom, c'est Abdul Qadir Danger.
Abdul Qadir Danger. Danger? Yeah.
Abdul Qadir Danger. That's good.
241
00:19:42,200 --> 00:19:47,080
Duel Magazine too. Duel Magazine?
It's a very good French magazine
242
00:19:47,080 --> 00:19:49,880
for travellers. Yes, I have picture.
243
00:19:49,880 --> 00:19:54,080
Abdul Danger - I'm not sure
that gives me confidence.
244
00:19:54,080 --> 00:19:59,040
That's right. I am Michael Cowardly.
Michael Cowardly. Highly cowardly.
245
00:19:59,040 --> 00:20:01,880
Michael Cowardly. That's very nice.
246
00:20:01,880 --> 00:20:04,560
Oh, well. I'll think about it.
247
00:20:04,560 --> 00:20:06,560
Just amazing.
248
00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:11,120
So I'll have two African masks, and
a course of skiing lessons, please!
249
00:20:11,120 --> 00:20:14,000
MEN SING
250
00:20:14,000 --> 00:20:15,520
As evening approaches,
251
00:20:15,520 --> 00:20:19,760
the crowds gather one of the day's
highlights - a mass Gerewol.
252
00:20:23,040 --> 00:20:26,840
Back at base, Raine and the other
Wodaabe prepare to join the dance.
253
00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:38,840
They'll be facing some
strong competition.
254
00:20:52,360 --> 00:20:56,440
Raine and the boys make final checks
in the plastic hand mirrors
255
00:20:56,440 --> 00:20:59,720
that every self-respecting Wodaabe
lad carries with him.
256
00:21:06,560 --> 00:21:09,480
With ostrich headdresses
rounding off the outfit,
257
00:21:09,480 --> 00:21:11,240
they're ready for the big time.
258
00:21:25,200 --> 00:21:28,520
MEN SING AND CLAP RHYTHMICALLY
259
00:21:28,520 --> 00:21:32,400
Raine's already looking around,
maybe wondering where Goode is,
260
00:21:32,400 --> 00:21:35,120
maybe on the lookout
for some action himself.
261
00:21:35,120 --> 00:21:38,560
For this, it seems,
is what Cure Salee is all about -
262
00:21:38,560 --> 00:21:42,880
the one time in a hard year
when tribes who live on the move
263
00:21:42,880 --> 00:21:46,400
can stop in the same place
at the same time,
264
00:21:46,400 --> 00:21:51,560
to exchange contacts, advice,
and of course, widen the gene pool.
265
00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:09,960
I've benefited from Cure Salee
as well,
266
00:22:09,960 --> 00:22:15,160
finding a group of Tuareg who will
let us join them on a salt caravan
leaving from a nearby village.
267
00:22:17,800 --> 00:22:22,080
The journey will take us
across an arid furnace of desert,
268
00:22:22,080 --> 00:22:25,600
but on our way to the village,
the almost unbelievable happens.
269
00:22:28,560 --> 00:22:30,480
Well, there IS water in the Sahara.
270
00:22:30,480 --> 00:22:34,240
When the rainy season hits,
it's dramatic.
271
00:22:34,240 --> 00:22:39,320
This morning, I could have walked up
here. It has happened within a day.
272
00:22:39,480 --> 00:22:43,560
Rains have fallen somewhere -
I don't know where.
273
00:22:43,560 --> 00:22:47,400
This will probably
come up to my waist height,
274
00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:50,320
and in a week it'll be dry again.
275
00:22:50,320 --> 00:22:55,520
At the oasis of Tabelot, this water
stays close enough to the surface
to create a minor miracle.
276
00:22:57,720 --> 00:23:00,560
This is like the Garden of Eden.
277
00:23:00,560 --> 00:23:05,800
'And this is Omar, the man who'll
soon be leading me and the camel
train across the burning sands.'
278
00:23:07,720 --> 00:23:10,400
Orange. Orange, ah! Merci.
279
00:23:10,400 --> 00:23:13,000
C'est bon - rafraichissant.
280
00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:23,680
Tu vois bien. Ah, c'est le...puits?
281
00:23:23,680 --> 00:23:28,640
'All the water has to be brought up
from below the surface.
282
00:23:28,640 --> 00:23:31,520
'This well is some 50 feet deep.
283
00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:36,560
'A camel works the winch and a bag
moves water to irrigation channels.
284
00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:41,480
'It's a method as old as the Bible -
probably older.
285
00:23:46,320 --> 00:23:48,880
'And it works.
286
00:23:48,880 --> 00:23:52,680
'The fields of Tabelot are rich in
onions, carrots, maize and millet,
287
00:23:52,680 --> 00:23:57,720
'whilst trees provide orange, fig,
pomegranate and, of course, dates,
288
00:23:57,720 --> 00:24:02,760
'which, when ripe, are wrapped in
bags to keep the birds off them.'
289
00:24:02,760 --> 00:24:05,920
Quel est le plus grand?
290
00:24:05,920 --> 00:24:10,520
Le plus grand c'est 20 metres.
20 metres? 60 feet. 60 feet up?
291
00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:13,080
Il monte? Oui.
292
00:24:13,080 --> 00:24:17,560
Crikey. So, he gets up 60 feet
to get the dates. Oui.
293
00:24:17,560 --> 00:24:20,040
HE YELLS
294
00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:25,920
And drops his load.
295
00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:35,080
I just... I only wanted three!
296
00:24:35,080 --> 00:24:36,920
Mmm.
297
00:24:36,920 --> 00:24:38,920
Wowee.
298
00:24:41,040 --> 00:24:43,800
Merci. Merci beaucoup.
299
00:24:49,120 --> 00:24:54,360
'Omar's home is in the centre of the
village, a mile or so from the well.
300
00:24:54,600 --> 00:24:59,760
'He's taking me to meet his family.
They speak only Arabic or Tamahaq,
301
00:25:00,080 --> 00:25:04,920
'the language of the Tuareg,
but Omar has better French than me.'
302
00:25:04,920 --> 00:25:09,880
Quatre femmes et... 'He tells me
he has four wives and 15 children.'
303
00:25:09,880 --> 00:25:12,720
15 children? Oui.
304
00:25:12,720 --> 00:25:15,840
You are riche. No.
305
00:25:15,840 --> 00:25:21,000
C'est un probleme d'avoir...
quatre femmes, pour gagner? Oui...
306
00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:26,480
'Though he smiles easily enough,
things are not as rosy as they look.
307
00:25:26,720 --> 00:25:31,960
'It's hard finding money to buy food
and medicine for all the children,
308
00:25:32,160 --> 00:25:37,200
'particularly the little ones, who
can't work.' C'est un peu dur. Yeah.
309
00:25:37,320 --> 00:25:40,920
Comme il y a des petits enfants.
Yeah.
310
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:45,160
So, it's... C'est pas facile.
C'est difficile.
311
00:25:45,160 --> 00:25:48,840
'His wives seem to be
of different ages
312
00:25:48,840 --> 00:25:53,720
'and I ask if there are problems
with all four under the same roof.'
313
00:25:53,720 --> 00:25:58,920
..quatre femmes dans le...meme
maison. Beaucoup de problemes.
314
00:25:59,200 --> 00:26:03,840
'Yes, he says, there are
many problems. They all seem
315
00:26:03,840 --> 00:26:07,520
'to boil down to the same thing -
jealousy.'
316
00:26:07,520 --> 00:26:10,200
Jalousie. Jealousy? Oui.
317
00:26:11,560 --> 00:26:14,280
Mais peut-etre, si vous...
318
00:26:14,280 --> 00:26:16,680
Si tu as...
319
00:26:16,680 --> 00:26:21,880
'Wouldn't it be easier,
I ask in my impertinent Western way,
to have one wife?'
320
00:26:23,280 --> 00:26:28,560
With one woman, it's easy.
One wife, pas difficile.
321
00:26:29,760 --> 00:26:34,560
Mais avec quatre femmes, c'est
tres difficile. Yeah. Pourquoi...?
322
00:26:34,560 --> 00:26:38,760
'Omar agrees that
it would probably be much easier,
323
00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:43,840
'but then, as he puts it,
he wants lots of children,
so he needs lots of wives.'
324
00:26:45,480 --> 00:26:48,320
You've got a lot of children. Oui.
325
00:26:48,320 --> 00:26:53,200
'I think, in his own way, Omar likes
the idea of starting a dynasty.'
326
00:26:56,240 --> 00:26:59,680
LIVELY DRUMMING AND SINGING
327
00:26:59,680 --> 00:27:04,880
The night before the camel train
leaves for Bilma, there's a party.
328
00:27:06,920 --> 00:27:12,080
The dancing gets wilder and wilder,
as the men strut every step
they know to impress the women,
329
00:27:14,800 --> 00:27:18,080
and there's no sitting it out.
330
00:27:34,080 --> 00:27:39,120
The local boys are tireless, happy
to raise the sand all night long,
331
00:27:39,360 --> 00:27:44,560
but for us oldies it's time for bed.
There's a long, hard journey ahead.
332
00:27:55,920 --> 00:28:01,000
Early morning in Tabelot and the
great day of departure has arrived.
333
00:28:01,040 --> 00:28:04,320
With these men and beasts
334
00:28:04,320 --> 00:28:08,000
I'll share the Sahara's
most desolate corners.
335
00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:12,400
Est-ce qu'il y a cette...?
C'est le chameau? Oui. OK.
336
00:28:13,680 --> 00:28:15,640
Merci.
337
00:28:16,800 --> 00:28:20,200
Got more important things
to put on first.
338
00:28:21,520 --> 00:28:24,080
This is straw in here.
339
00:28:24,080 --> 00:28:28,880
I asked him if it's for the camel
to eat. He said no, for us.
340
00:28:28,880 --> 00:28:31,520
You don't get much to eat. Sorry.
341
00:28:32,760 --> 00:28:36,280
There are nine chameliers,
or cameliers,
342
00:28:36,280 --> 00:28:41,480
in our party, and 30 camels, most of
which are of the white, docile type
343
00:28:42,560 --> 00:28:46,560
beloved by the Tuareg
of the Air mountains.
344
00:28:46,560 --> 00:28:49,400
CAMEL BELLOWS
345
00:28:49,400 --> 00:28:54,680
'My camel, I note, is neither white
nor docile, but brown and stroppy.'
346
00:28:54,880 --> 00:28:56,800
Whoa!
347
00:28:59,400 --> 00:29:04,480
So excited to have my bag on board
that he wanted to make off with it.
348
00:29:04,640 --> 00:29:07,400
Il a un nom? Oui. Ekowik.
349
00:29:07,400 --> 00:29:09,920
Kowik? Ekowik.
350
00:29:09,920 --> 00:29:11,960
Kowik.
351
00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:16,000
Kowik, I think, means
"he who takes foreigners".
352
00:29:20,960 --> 00:29:23,480
Ekowik. Ekowik.
353
00:29:27,240 --> 00:29:32,240
'We're ready to go. Everything we
need must be carried by the camels,
354
00:29:32,240 --> 00:29:35,320
'except fresh food, which walks.'
355
00:29:35,320 --> 00:29:39,600
Well, here we go.
Not quite sure about me yet.
356
00:29:39,600 --> 00:29:43,240
CAMEL GRUNTS
Come on.
357
00:29:45,080 --> 00:29:49,760
Well, this is it. It's not quite
what I expected when I'd...
358
00:29:49,760 --> 00:29:55,000
Camel rides on the beach or once
round the pyramid. This is for real.
359
00:29:55,640 --> 00:29:59,320
I've failed already.
I got him a few yards.
360
00:30:01,840 --> 00:30:04,600
So we leave Tabelot,
361
00:30:04,600 --> 00:30:09,200
a modest caravan compared to the one
which left here in 1922,
362
00:30:09,200 --> 00:30:14,080
observed by one Captain Buchanan,
who estimated it at six miles long.
363
00:30:27,920 --> 00:30:30,600
Come on, Ekowik.
364
00:30:46,720 --> 00:30:50,480
It's 350 miles across the desert
to Bilma
365
00:30:50,480 --> 00:30:53,320
and I shall be leaving before that
366
00:30:53,320 --> 00:30:57,240
and branching north,
towards the Algerian border.
367
00:31:08,560 --> 00:31:12,840
'As we pass out of the mountains,
Omar takes me aside
368
00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:16,680
'to show me
some of the extraordinary rock art
369
00:31:16,680 --> 00:31:20,440
'that covers
this part of the Sahara.'
370
00:31:20,440 --> 00:31:25,680
C'est quel age? Vers six mille.
Ah, six mille. 6,000 years. Oui.
371
00:31:26,000 --> 00:31:30,640
6,000 years old! 'Some say
they're men from outer space.
372
00:31:30,640 --> 00:31:35,840
'Others say they're ancestors of the
Wodaabe, but the animals they depict
373
00:31:36,400 --> 00:31:40,040
'are taken as proof that,
not long ago,
374
00:31:40,040 --> 00:31:43,520
'the Sahara
was a green and fertile place.'
375
00:31:52,080 --> 00:31:57,280
Since the last ice age ended,
the Sahara and its wildlife have
borne the brunt of global warming.
376
00:31:59,120 --> 00:32:04,240
Now the camel,
introduced from Arabia, has
this wilderness almost to itself.
377
00:32:31,480 --> 00:32:36,560
It looks rather pleasant and gentle
this pace, ambling through the sand,
378
00:32:36,560 --> 00:32:41,000
but it's very deceptive
cos this is really stark desert.
379
00:32:41,000 --> 00:32:46,240
This is killer landscape, because
there is no water and no shelter,
380
00:32:46,680 --> 00:32:49,560
so you go slowly to survive
381
00:32:49,560 --> 00:32:54,760
and if you didn't have water
or friends around,
that would be it within 24 hours.
382
00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:08,880
The camel - or dromedary, as these
single-humped animals are known -
383
00:33:09,200 --> 00:33:12,080
is a marvellous desert machine.
384
00:33:12,080 --> 00:33:16,320
Their weight is so finely balanced,
they leave barely a mark.
385
00:33:16,320 --> 00:33:21,040
Provided they can graze, they can
last two weeks without water
386
00:33:21,040 --> 00:33:26,040
and they can carry loads of up to
500 pounds over enormous distances.
387
00:33:27,080 --> 00:33:30,760
Camels changed the history
of the Sahara.
388
00:33:30,760 --> 00:33:35,920
Without them, 2,000 years of trade,
war, expansion and exploration
would never have happened.
389
00:33:40,600 --> 00:33:43,560
It's getting now to midday,
390
00:33:43,560 --> 00:33:47,120
the peak of heat.
We're seeking a tree.
391
00:33:47,120 --> 00:33:51,080
You just have to keep drinking
lots of water.
392
00:33:51,080 --> 00:33:56,000
The other thing which is nice about
it is the camels dictate the pace
393
00:33:56,000 --> 00:33:58,600
but also the mood.
394
00:33:58,600 --> 00:34:02,640
It's the sort of continuous,
unchanging rhythm,
395
00:34:02,640 --> 00:34:06,720
which is the way, I think,
you survive this.
396
00:34:06,720 --> 00:34:10,560
Stopping and starting
is more difficult.
397
00:34:10,560 --> 00:34:15,800
You've got to have shelter and all
that, but camels just move on and
become very reassuring presences.
398
00:34:17,440 --> 00:34:20,280
You don't want to be patted.
399
00:34:20,280 --> 00:34:22,440
But...
400
00:34:22,440 --> 00:34:26,000
I mean,
there are good things about it.
401
00:34:26,000 --> 00:34:31,040
There are no flies. You don't get
bitten by anything. There's no...
402
00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:35,560
undergrowth to catch your clothing
on or get jabbed by,
403
00:34:35,560 --> 00:34:39,440
but...there's very little scope
for action.
404
00:34:39,440 --> 00:34:44,600
More scope for imagination, so you
think a lot...like why did I suggest
doing this in the first place?
405
00:34:46,320 --> 00:34:48,040
Just a joke.
406
00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:52,120
Oh, a tree! Un arbre.
407
00:34:52,120 --> 00:34:54,840
Omar... Oui. ..un arbre.
408
00:34:54,840 --> 00:34:57,880
Un arbre pour nous? Chez nous? Oui.
409
00:34:57,880 --> 00:34:59,080
Hurrah!
410
00:35:01,560 --> 00:35:05,040
This is where
we're going to stop next.
411
00:35:05,040 --> 00:35:07,640
It's two-star,
412
00:35:07,640 --> 00:35:10,640
so, basically, no swimming pool.
413
00:35:10,640 --> 00:35:13,120
No room service.
414
00:35:13,120 --> 00:35:16,080
No roof, no stairs...
415
00:35:16,080 --> 00:35:20,000
no rooms, actually,
but it sounds jolly good.
416
00:35:22,720 --> 00:35:25,440
How much is in the water?
417
00:35:34,040 --> 00:35:36,080
Merci.
418
00:35:42,120 --> 00:35:44,400
Merci, Omar.
419
00:35:44,400 --> 00:35:46,880
HE LAUGHS
420
00:35:51,000 --> 00:35:55,480
Lovely the way they go down,
sort of fold up, like...
421
00:35:55,480 --> 00:35:58,200
collapsible tables.
422
00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:21,360
This is what they eat
off the acacia tree,
423
00:36:21,360 --> 00:36:24,200
but to get at the greenery
424
00:36:24,200 --> 00:36:27,960
there are
these amazingly long, sharp thorns.
425
00:36:27,960 --> 00:36:31,560
A couple of inches long.
Incredibly sharp.
426
00:36:31,560 --> 00:36:36,680
They just sort of chomp that off. I
wonder what goes on in their mouths
427
00:36:36,800 --> 00:36:39,880
between the tongue and the gullet.
428
00:36:39,880 --> 00:36:43,680
I wouldn't eat this...
even in a sandwich.
429
00:36:43,680 --> 00:36:46,480
Well, possibly in a sandwich.
430
00:36:46,480 --> 00:36:49,160
I'd eat anything at the moment.
431
00:36:56,760 --> 00:36:59,760
MICHAEL HUMS
432
00:37:06,880 --> 00:37:08,480
OK.
433
00:37:11,320 --> 00:37:13,560
C'est bon.
434
00:37:23,920 --> 00:37:28,200
The midday temperatures
peak at around 56 Celsius
435
00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:33,200
and only in late afternoon, when the
day cools off, is it safe to leave.
436
00:37:39,000 --> 00:37:41,840
The heat dictates everything.
437
00:37:41,840 --> 00:37:45,880
Because of it, Omar and his men
sometimes leave at 4am,
438
00:37:45,880 --> 00:37:49,880
but they still aim to walk
14 or 15 hours a day.
439
00:37:51,320 --> 00:37:53,760
Woohoooo!
440
00:37:54,840 --> 00:37:57,880
I don't know about the camels,
441
00:37:57,880 --> 00:38:01,920
but I find walking on this soft sand
the most tiring.
442
00:38:01,920 --> 00:38:06,640
Izambar Mohammed, the camel singer,
watches out for flagging spirits.
443
00:38:06,640 --> 00:38:09,200
SHARP CRY
444
00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:15,320
SINGING
The tree you see over there...
445
00:38:16,960 --> 00:38:22,000
Your expectations become so low that
one tree becomes a luxury object.
446
00:38:22,240 --> 00:38:26,680
You can understand
what an oasis means to these people.
447
00:38:26,680 --> 00:38:29,720
Everything's just pared down.
448
00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:35,640
Very minimal expectations.
449
00:38:41,320 --> 00:38:44,360
SINGING CONTINUES
450
00:39:20,000 --> 00:39:25,160
The main social event of the day
is the evening meal - usually bread,
dates and cheese, buttonight,
451
00:39:27,400 --> 00:39:30,640
in my honour, there'll be a stew.
452
00:39:30,640 --> 00:39:33,520
Everyone has a job to do.
453
00:39:33,520 --> 00:39:36,560
Omar and Izambar kill the sheep,
454
00:39:36,560 --> 00:39:39,600
Osman bakes bread in a sand oven
455
00:39:39,600 --> 00:39:43,760
and Moussa plaits twine
to secure the camel loads.
456
00:39:43,760 --> 00:39:46,320
I'm still recovering.
457
00:39:52,240 --> 00:39:56,680
There's nowhere to sit.
That's what I really miss most.
458
00:39:56,680 --> 00:40:01,560
I'm sitting here, but this is
their bedding and the animals' food,
459
00:40:01,560 --> 00:40:04,520
so I can't really sit here for long.
460
00:40:04,520 --> 00:40:07,320
They don't believe in chairs.
461
00:40:07,320 --> 00:40:12,520
After a long walk, it'd be nice to
just flop down on a chaise longue.
462
00:40:12,960 --> 00:40:16,960
That's what I'd bring
if I had a camel train.
463
00:40:16,960 --> 00:40:19,640
Camels stacked with chairs!
464
00:40:19,640 --> 00:40:22,440
Reading lamps and a television.
465
00:40:22,440 --> 00:40:25,320
Possibly a small bar and a fridge.
466
00:40:25,320 --> 00:40:29,360
Front door bell, stairs
and maybe a couple of friends.
467
00:40:30,800 --> 00:40:33,880
THEY SPEAK IN DIALECT
468
00:41:18,040 --> 00:41:22,760
It's something thick and coarse
and heavy and rather unappetising.
469
00:41:22,760 --> 00:41:25,800
Taguella. Togella.
470
00:41:25,800 --> 00:41:28,760
Taguella. Togella. Taguella.
471
00:41:28,760 --> 00:41:32,000
Taguella. Ca, c'est le taguella.
472
00:41:32,000 --> 00:41:35,040
Tagilla. Taguella. Taguella.
473
00:41:35,040 --> 00:41:37,240
Nice.
474
00:41:37,240 --> 00:41:40,200
It's more like cake, really.
475
00:41:40,200 --> 00:41:44,320
Like a big chunk of cake
we used to have at school.
476
00:41:44,320 --> 00:41:46,600
Mmm.
477
00:41:46,600 --> 00:41:50,640
Nice hard, crispy outside.
Very good.
478
00:41:50,640 --> 00:41:53,280
Taguella. Taguella!
479
00:41:53,280 --> 00:41:56,120
You have to get the emphasis right.
480
00:41:56,120 --> 00:41:59,400
Ta-GUE-lla probably means buttock.
481
00:41:59,400 --> 00:42:02,480
Taguell-A means this lovely cake.
482
00:42:13,400 --> 00:42:16,320
You're a great audience. Thank you.
483
00:42:16,320 --> 00:42:20,400
I think I'm wrong here,
another breach of etiquette,
484
00:42:20,400 --> 00:42:24,360
because they seem to be
breaking up the...taguella?
485
00:42:24,360 --> 00:42:29,440
..into the bowl here, so I suppose
they're going to put sauce on it,
486
00:42:29,440 --> 00:42:34,040
but you're popping a bit
in your mouth too, so I'll do that.
487
00:42:34,040 --> 00:42:37,080
Un peu tageulla. Un peu taduella.
488
00:42:37,080 --> 00:42:39,880
Un peu taduella.
489
00:42:39,880 --> 00:42:43,120
Taguella. Taguella. Taguella.
490
00:42:43,120 --> 00:42:47,080
They're probably teaching me
all the wrong words.
491
00:42:48,320 --> 00:42:51,160
Probably saying...
492
00:42:51,160 --> 00:42:54,640
THEY SPEAK AMONGST THEMSELVES
493
00:42:57,840 --> 00:43:00,480
Taguella. Taguella.
494
00:43:00,480 --> 00:43:02,480
Taguella.
495
00:43:05,080 --> 00:43:09,000
It's a minimalist joke,
but it's going very well.
496
00:43:09,000 --> 00:43:11,680
Ah, this looks like the...
497
00:43:12,760 --> 00:43:15,080
..the meat.
498
00:43:18,640 --> 00:43:23,920
It's an odd feeling to be eating
one of the three creatures I've got
to know quite well as wewalk along.
499
00:43:25,720 --> 00:43:30,640
The camels are up there and the
sheep and the goat are rather sweet
500
00:43:30,640 --> 00:43:35,800
and they get kicked about
and no-one seems to care about them.
I rather identified with them...
501
00:43:37,480 --> 00:43:41,560
and one has now been dispatched,
and the others...
502
00:43:41,560 --> 00:43:46,520
It's swinging on the bush and
the other two are looking around...
503
00:43:46,520 --> 00:43:49,440
"I wonder what happened to Bert."
504
00:43:49,440 --> 00:43:52,360
They don't seem too concerned.
505
00:43:52,360 --> 00:43:56,080
He laid down his life
for a good cause.
506
00:43:56,080 --> 00:44:01,240
This is a banquet for Tuaregs,
because they rarely have meat on
a long journey. They have couscous.
507
00:44:03,000 --> 00:44:07,960
There'll be a lot of sand in it,
especially with the wind blowing.
508
00:44:09,960 --> 00:44:13,000
Tagine. Izzot. Oh.
509
00:44:13,000 --> 00:44:16,040
For me? Oui. Thank you.
510
00:44:17,480 --> 00:44:20,120
THEY LAUGH
511
00:44:31,040 --> 00:44:33,560
Izzot. Izzot.
512
00:44:33,560 --> 00:44:36,360
Is very hot, but it's good.
513
00:44:38,280 --> 00:44:39,560
This is lovely.
514
00:44:41,120 --> 00:44:42,840
Mmm.
515
00:44:42,840 --> 00:44:45,280
Izzot. Izzot. Izzot.
516
00:44:45,280 --> 00:44:47,760
Very good.
517
00:44:56,760 --> 00:44:59,720
CAMEL BELLOWS
518
00:45:10,720 --> 00:45:15,000
It's much more sensible
than any hat you could buy,
519
00:45:15,000 --> 00:45:18,240
because...it's really cool.
520
00:45:18,240 --> 00:45:23,240
You have to tie it quite securely,
because all the walking loosens it,
521
00:45:23,240 --> 00:45:26,120
but it's cool and it keeps dust off,
522
00:45:26,120 --> 00:45:31,040
so you can put it right over, can't
you? Up way. Sorry. My dresser.
523
00:45:31,040 --> 00:45:34,000
And general looker-after.
524
00:45:46,320 --> 00:45:51,120
I'd like to be able to see out of it
and not walk into a camel.
525
00:45:51,120 --> 00:45:53,840
Brilliant. And this can go up...
526
00:45:57,080 --> 00:45:59,400
Voila.
527
00:46:00,680 --> 00:46:03,520
Et tu fais ca. Thank you.
528
00:46:03,520 --> 00:46:05,520
Merci.
529
00:46:07,400 --> 00:46:11,360
HE LAUGHS
There - ready for the route.
530
00:46:11,360 --> 00:46:14,480
Dust...and it's very, very cool.
531
00:46:14,480 --> 00:46:17,760
It's excellent, isn't it? Merci.
532
00:46:17,760 --> 00:46:20,520
CAMEL MOANS
533
00:46:29,560 --> 00:46:33,680
One thing I've got rather used to
about the camels
534
00:46:33,680 --> 00:46:38,880
is the strange rumblings
that go around the camp whenever
they're being loaded up or put down.
535
00:46:40,480 --> 00:46:44,680
You can hear one now,
and it's almost like a language
536
00:46:44,680 --> 00:46:49,440
and I'm not quite sure what it is -
is it anger, is it protest
537
00:46:49,440 --> 00:46:52,280
or just, "Here we go again"?
538
00:46:52,280 --> 00:46:55,120
But they make their presence felt.
539
00:46:55,120 --> 00:46:59,960
"We're not meant to do this. We're
not meant to be beasts of burden."
540
00:47:02,640 --> 00:47:06,640
I shall develop a noise of my own
to go with it.
541
00:47:06,640 --> 00:47:09,200
Nyyyiip! Nyyoooiii!
542
00:47:09,200 --> 00:47:12,960
LAUGHTER
Good. It works.
543
00:47:33,600 --> 00:47:38,800
We're now into
what my French guidebook calls
"desert absolut" - absolute desert.
544
00:47:40,440 --> 00:47:45,400
The earth stripped clean, as bare as
a glacier, featureless as the sea.
545
00:47:45,400 --> 00:47:50,560
The outside world is SO far away
as to be almost irrelevant.
546
00:47:51,000 --> 00:47:56,240
I can understand why so many
religions were born in the desert.
547
00:47:56,880 --> 00:48:01,080
The outside is SO hostile,
you have to look inside.
548
00:48:13,960 --> 00:48:18,880
Just as I begin to achieve spiritual
harmony with this great emptiness,
549
00:48:19,120 --> 00:48:24,320
I'm reminded that in this century
the outside world is always closer
than you think. We're not alone.
550
00:48:26,520 --> 00:48:29,560
MOTOR HUMS
551
00:48:46,640 --> 00:48:50,080
A French paraglider
swoops down over us,
552
00:48:50,080 --> 00:48:53,040
a video camera at the ready.
553
00:48:53,040 --> 00:48:58,200
I feel he's intruding on our space,
but deep down I'm probably jealous.
554
00:48:58,640 --> 00:49:03,880
You've been to many deserts in the
world. Do you have a favourite, one
place that you find mostrewarding?
555
00:49:05,840 --> 00:49:10,240
I've been, yes, to different place.
I like this one,
556
00:49:10,240 --> 00:49:15,440
because the Sahara, there is an
authentic life here, still alive.
557
00:49:16,280 --> 00:49:19,160
Well, it's a great machine.
558
00:49:19,160 --> 00:49:24,440
Can you do some work with us?
Get up in the air
and we'll have our boys here.
559
00:49:25,600 --> 00:49:28,240
Is it OK to have another camera?
560
00:49:29,720 --> 00:49:31,960
Oh, sorry.
561
00:49:31,960 --> 00:49:35,360
A few sweeties
and he'd be all right.
562
00:50:28,840 --> 00:50:33,080
This might be just
a streak of Yorkshire puritanism,
563
00:50:33,080 --> 00:50:37,960
but I don't want the Sahara
to become an adventure playground
564
00:50:37,960 --> 00:50:43,000
and after the excitement I'm glad to
be back with people who live here.
565
00:51:12,920 --> 00:51:17,680
Phew! It seems a bit bizarre
having a fire in the Sahara
566
00:51:17,680 --> 00:51:22,240
after it's been 132 degrees
Fahrenheit this afternoon,
567
00:51:22,240 --> 00:51:25,080
56 centigrade,
568
00:51:25,080 --> 00:51:28,160
but it gets quite cold at night.
569
00:51:28,160 --> 00:51:33,120
It goes down to about, well...
It can get as low as the high 80s.
570
00:51:34,640 --> 00:51:38,840
You know, sort of 40 degrees,
38 degrees at night
571
00:51:38,840 --> 00:51:41,960
and oddly enough it seems cold.
572
00:51:41,960 --> 00:51:47,000
Anyway, it's just nice to have a
fire. Very friendly, companionable.
573
00:51:47,000 --> 00:51:52,120
I can make my joke about...izzot!
Izzot. You see, it goes down a bomb.
574
00:51:52,440 --> 00:51:54,920
Izzot. Izzot...
575
00:52:16,240 --> 00:52:19,040
Oh, pour moi? Merci, merci.
576
00:52:19,040 --> 00:52:22,960
Si tu veux...
This is a bit of the cheese, yeah.
577
00:52:22,960 --> 00:52:25,000
Mmm.
578
00:52:27,600 --> 00:52:30,720
Takuma. Guma. Takuma.
579
00:52:30,720 --> 00:52:35,560
You're going to teach me
another word, aren't you? Takuma.
580
00:52:35,560 --> 00:52:38,080
Takuma. Al fatur.
581
00:52:38,080 --> 00:52:40,880
Hm? Al fatur. Al fatur.
582
00:52:40,880 --> 00:52:43,840
THEY LAUGH
Shay. Shay.
583
00:52:43,840 --> 00:52:46,760
You're teaching me rude words...
584
00:52:46,760 --> 00:52:49,600
THEY LAUGH
585
00:52:51,080 --> 00:52:54,080
Ah, these little Tuareg soirees!
586
00:52:58,480 --> 00:53:01,480
The cheese is nice. Very nice.
587
00:53:01,480 --> 00:53:03,480
Cheers.
588
00:53:03,480 --> 00:53:06,320
En anglais, nous disons "Cheers!"
589
00:53:06,320 --> 00:53:08,840
Cheers! Down the hatch.
590
00:53:09,880 --> 00:53:12,520
Bottoms up.
591
00:53:12,520 --> 00:53:17,000
THEY SPEAK IN DIALECT
Bottoms up. Bottom...
592
00:53:17,000 --> 00:53:19,960
Bottom. Bottom. Bottoms. Bottoms.
593
00:53:19,960 --> 00:53:22,800
Up. Up. Yeah, great!
594
00:53:22,800 --> 00:53:26,840
Bottoms up. Bottoms up. Bottoms up.
Bottoms up.
595
00:53:26,840 --> 00:53:30,560
THEY LAUGH
Izzot!
596
00:53:32,600 --> 00:53:35,080
Ah, very good.
597
00:53:35,080 --> 00:53:37,800
Bottoms up. Bottoms up.
598
00:53:39,320 --> 00:53:42,400
Shay. Shay. Izzot. Izzot.
599
00:53:42,400 --> 00:53:44,960
Al fatur. Al fatur.
600
00:53:44,960 --> 00:53:48,680
THEY LAUGH
Takuma. Takuma.
601
00:53:52,320 --> 00:53:54,560
Takuma.
602
00:53:55,920 --> 00:53:58,920
Takuma. Oh, not again. Takuma.
603
00:53:58,920 --> 00:54:01,240
Al fatur. Al fatur.
604
00:54:01,240 --> 00:54:03,520
Shay. Shay.
605
00:54:03,520 --> 00:54:05,760
Izzot. Izzot!
606
00:54:07,320 --> 00:54:10,120
Bottoms up. Bottoms up.
607
00:54:10,120 --> 00:54:13,000
God bless Her Majesty.
608
00:54:13,000 --> 00:54:15,720
THEY CHUCKLE
609
00:54:16,720 --> 00:54:19,360
Bottoms up. Bottoms up.
610
00:54:53,880 --> 00:54:57,560
Omar helps me load up
for the last time.
611
00:54:57,560 --> 00:55:02,640
Today our ways will part and already
they've someone new to look after.
612
00:55:08,320 --> 00:55:13,400
This gazelle was found abandoned
by its mother at the campsite
613
00:55:13,400 --> 00:55:17,120
and they're going to keep it
as a pet.
614
00:55:17,120 --> 00:55:20,080
This is not one for the pot.
615
00:55:20,080 --> 00:55:24,240
There are gazelles
in the Sahara desert. It's amazing.
616
00:55:24,240 --> 00:55:28,520
I know there are camels
and lots of smaller animals,
617
00:55:28,520 --> 00:55:32,880
but there are gazelles
roaming in the depths of the desert
618
00:55:32,880 --> 00:55:36,560
and this one, I think,
will hopefully survive.
619
00:55:36,560 --> 00:55:38,960
It's got amazing ears.
620
00:55:40,600 --> 00:55:42,800
Yes...
621
00:55:44,400 --> 00:55:47,360
We'll look after you, won't we?
622
00:55:58,680 --> 00:56:01,560
It's always the way, isn't it?
623
00:56:01,560 --> 00:56:05,920
Just as I'm learning how to cope,
it's time to move on.
624
00:56:05,920 --> 00:56:09,480
I shall miss all this -
the regular rhythm,
625
00:56:09,480 --> 00:56:13,320
the reassuring pattern
of life on the move.
626
00:56:13,320 --> 00:56:18,200
I shall miss Omar and Izambar and
all the team who've looked after me.
627
00:56:18,200 --> 00:56:22,400
Even Ekowik and the camels,
though they won't miss me.
628
00:56:22,400 --> 00:56:26,680
I've learnt a lot - maybe not enough
to start a religion,
629
00:56:26,680 --> 00:56:29,800
but a clearer view of basic truths.
630
00:56:29,800 --> 00:56:34,440
If you don't respect your
environment, you die. It's simple.
631
00:56:40,160 --> 00:56:44,720
'Omar will doubtless be delighted
to see the back of us.
632
00:56:44,720 --> 00:56:49,880
'He can get back to the business of
bringing the salt back from Bilma.'
633
00:56:50,200 --> 00:56:52,280
Au revoir.
634
00:56:52,280 --> 00:56:55,160
Merci. Merci, Omar, pour tout.
635
00:56:55,160 --> 00:56:57,600
Bon voyage.
636
00:56:58,800 --> 00:57:01,440
Bye. Merci, merci.
637
00:57:01,440 --> 00:57:05,840
Merci. Merci. Merci pour tout.
Merci pour tout.
638
00:57:05,840 --> 00:57:09,560
Heeey!
You like that shirt, don't you?
639
00:57:09,560 --> 00:57:11,800
Oh! OK.
640
00:57:11,800 --> 00:57:14,720
Bon voyage. Au revoir. Merci.
641
00:57:16,480 --> 00:57:18,880
Ah! Bottoms up.
642
00:57:18,880 --> 00:57:22,000
HE PRETENDS TO CRY
643
00:57:22,000 --> 00:57:26,320
He's going to win the Oscar
for this, isn't he?
644
00:57:26,320 --> 00:57:29,320
Stop it! It's my show!
645
00:57:29,320 --> 00:57:31,280
OK...
646
00:57:31,280 --> 00:57:34,160
Il vient avec moi.
647
00:57:34,160 --> 00:57:37,240
Oui, il vient avec moi.
648
00:57:37,240 --> 00:57:40,880
Merci, Omar. Merci. Tres, tres bon.
Bon voyage.
649
00:57:40,880 --> 00:57:43,880
OK! Now, then, which way?
650
00:57:45,320 --> 00:57:47,600
Takuma.
651
00:57:47,600 --> 00:57:49,600
Photograph.
652
00:57:49,600 --> 00:57:52,040
Bottom up. Bottom up.
653
00:57:52,040 --> 00:57:55,560
Bottom up. Bottom up. Takuma.
Izzot! Izzot!
654
00:57:55,560 --> 00:57:58,560
THEY SHOUT OUT WORDS
655
00:58:09,280 --> 00:58:11,480
Au revoir.
656
00:58:33,120 --> 00:58:36,280
Right, let me see - Algeria.
657
00:58:36,280 --> 00:58:41,360
Over the mountain, past the oasis,
down the gorge, left at the volcano.
658
00:58:41,680 --> 00:58:44,680
Should be there by Tuesday week.
55303
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