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The desert is beautiful.
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But it is a harsh
and relentless place.
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And the people that live here,
above all, dream of an oasis.
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00:00:19,420 --> 00:00:22,060
Green and with abundant water.
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00:00:24,260 --> 00:00:29,460
And that water is not just
to make the crops grow
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00:00:29,620 --> 00:00:34,860
with fruits and grains,
but it is life itself.
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00:00:36,300 --> 00:00:40,260
We speak of our gardens being
a little piece of paradise.
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But for desert people, a garden,
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green and filled with water,
is heaven on Earth.
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It is paradise.
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00:00:54,940 --> 00:00:59,860
I'm setting out to explore
these Islamic paradise gardens
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that are born from the desert.
13
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I shall visit gardens
as symbols of power,
14
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gardens that are set around
magnificent tombs,
15
00:01:09,380 --> 00:01:12,100
as well as those made
purely for delight.
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I will discover the influence
of the Mughal dynasty in India.
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Arriving by elephant
is the most appropriate way
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to visit the Amer Fort.
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And enjoy the tulips in Turkey.
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I've never seen anything like it.
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And I'm really not sure
how to react.
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And back in the UK, we shall
be seeing how Islamic gardens
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have influenced both royal gardens
and public spaces.
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I've long been fascinated
by paradise gardens.
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The Koran paints a vivid description
of paradise as a garden,
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and this has dictated their
designs all over the world.
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So they tend to be enclosed
and divided into four quarters,
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with abundant shade
and always dominated by water.
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For the desert Arabs,
they were an idealised oasis.
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And for all Muslims,
they are an earthly reflection
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of the paradise that awaits.
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My journey has now brought me
to Istanbul
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to see how one of the
greatest Islamic empires
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made gardens that combined the
elements of East and West.
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The broad stretch of the Bosphorus
runs through the middle of Istanbul.
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For over 2,000 years,
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this great city has been the
meeting point of two cultures.
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Over there, to the West, is Europe.
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And on the other side of the river
is the landmass of Asia.
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And here is where they meet.
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For nearly 1,000 years,
this city was known as Byzantium.
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Then it became Constantinople,
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the capital of the Roman Empire
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and for centuries
the greatest city in Europe.
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When the Muslims
took over in 1453,
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they renamed the city Istanbul,
literally City of Islam,
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and it was the centre of the Ottoman
Empire for five centuries.
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00:04:08,420 --> 00:04:10,780
Where Eastern and Western
cultures meet,
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there are occasional clashes,
but much in common.
50
00:04:14,620 --> 00:04:19,940
And nothing exemplifies that more
here than a love of the tulip.
51
00:04:20,180 --> 00:04:24,220
Istanbul celebrates this
with uninhibited panache
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in the city's famous Emirgan Park.
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00:04:26,500 --> 00:04:30,060
And as the millions of flowers
hit their garish heights,
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scores of wedding couples
pose with elaborate delight.
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I grow a lot of tulips at home,
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plant thousands of bulbs
every autumn, and I love them.
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I love them for their
voluptuous flowers,
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for their elegance,
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and for the way that they
blow a fanfare into spring.
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But what I do at home is a drop in a
very large ocean compared to here.
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I've never seen anything like it.
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Three million bulbs
planted every year
63
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in drifts and swirls and patterns
and in borders amongst the trees.
64
00:05:12,900 --> 00:05:16,100
And I'm really not sure
how to react.
65
00:05:18,300 --> 00:05:21,060
The Dutch are famous
for their love of tulips,
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and in the 1630s at the height
of the Dutch tulip-mania,
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a single bulb would trade
for more than the price
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of the grandest house in Amsterdam.
69
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The Dutch caught the tulip bug
from the Ottomans.
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00:05:33,780 --> 00:05:37,500
300 years before Europeans
had even seen a tulip,
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poets here were writing
of its beauty.
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I talk to Professor Sitare Bakir,
a tulip expert,
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about this long relationship
between Ottomans and tulips.
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Firstly, I have to say that
Ottomans loved flowers.
75
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In the 16th century we have
lots of types of tulips,
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and also in the 17th and 18th
century it's become more and more.
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They have about 2,000
types of tulips.
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Really?
79
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These have been deliberately bred
and hybridised by the Ottoman Turks?
80
00:06:14,580 --> 00:06:17,420
That's right.
We have many documents about that.
81
00:06:17,420 --> 00:06:21,060
Do we know what the Ottoman
tulips look like?
82
00:06:21,060 --> 00:06:24,860
Of course. The tulip was
used in artworks a lot.
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Like in manuscripts, miniatures,
illustrations and tiles.
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It was thin and longer and
very modest, I should say.
85
00:06:36,740 --> 00:06:40,060
Tulips also had religious symbolism.
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Because tulip has a long stalk
and long flower on top,
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it is only one, like God.
88
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And when we go further, every letter
in the alphabet had a number.
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When you calculate the numbers,
it had meanings.
90
00:06:59,820 --> 00:07:05,060
And tulip had the same letters
like Allah, God had.
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This tulip calculated 66 in
numbering, and Allah also is 66.
92
00:07:12,980 --> 00:07:15,220
Thank you very much. Thank you.
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Most tulips are native to
Central Asia and the Caucasus,
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and throughout the Ottoman Empire
hundreds of thousands of bulbs
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were gathered for
the Sultan's gardens.
96
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But these tulips looked
a little different
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from the ones that most of us
grow or buy today.
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The European taste is, by and large,
for tulips like this,
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which are full and rich and they
have various textures and forms,
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but fundamentally goblet-shaped.
101
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The Ottomans preferred
a tulip like this.
102
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Tall, pointed petals,
almost spidery in their elongation
103
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and, above all, very elegant.
104
00:08:00,700 --> 00:08:03,820
As soon as people started
to grow tulips
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they noticed a certain
element of their behaviour.
106
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Which was that occasional flowers
107
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would develop these streaks and
flares and patches of colour.
108
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It's known as breaking.
109
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And that was esteemed
as the perfect example
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of what the flower could achieve.
111
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People tried endlessly to breed
these colour streaks,
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but they never succeeded.
113
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And then at the beginning
of the 20th century,
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it was discovered that
the cause of this breaking
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was actually a virus
which was spread by an aphid.
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And the conditions that are
ideal for that to occur
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are when tulips are grown in a warm,
humid place such as under trees.
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And the Ottomans thought that tulips
looked at their best,
119
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as they do here, grown under trees.
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00:09:04,540 --> 00:09:08,580
Tulips were revered and grown
in every kind of Islamic garden
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right across the Muslim world,
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but they were especially treasured
by the Ottomans.
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And the centre of the
Ottoman Empire was here,
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right in the middle of Istanbul,
at the Topkapi Palace.
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As well as being a royal home,
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it was also government offices
and even a small city.
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And it's built around a series
of spaces, or courts,
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each of them centred on a garden.
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The first one is here
and it was accessible to anybody
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who wanted to come
and petition the Sultan
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and, significantly, they could
arrive and be in here on horseback.
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But the gate behind me
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was the point at which everybody
bar two people had to dismount.
134
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And those two people
were the Sultan and his mother.
135
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The Sultan, as head of the empire,
was also the protector of Islam.
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But the Ottomans were not Arabs,
they didn't come from the desert,
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and readily took and incorporated
ideas from other cultures.
138
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The Topkapi Palace
was built on the site
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of the Greek Byzantium Acropolis,
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and the Ottoman gardens also reflect
this meeting of East and West.
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The garden designer, Gursan Ergil,
explains how this is manifested.
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In Ottoman gardens they were
bringing nature into architecture
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in the form of carpets, wall tiles,
floral motif wall tiles.
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The tiles here...
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..are stupendous.
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I mean, they are extraordinary.
147
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Ottoman Iznik tiles were originally
made in western Anatolia,
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modern-day Turkey,
at the end of the 15th century.
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The tiles gradually evolved
from being predominantly blue
150
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to becoming more vivid, with added
shades of green, purple and red.
151
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Because Islam forbade the use
of human or animal images,
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flowers and plants were always
a favourite theme.
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As you see here,
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they are symbolic representations
of flowers around them.
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Mostly you see tulips, pomegranates.
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There are some carnations,
as you can see here.
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Another Ottoman invention
came in the form of stone kiosks.
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Now, you might think of a kiosk as
somewhere you'd buy a newspaper
159
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or sweets, but to the Ottomans
they had a very different meaning.
160
00:12:01,060 --> 00:12:06,300
Kiosks are semi-open structures
for contemplation.
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Kiosk originally coming
from Persian... Yes.
162
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..but Westerners saw kiosk first
in Ottoman Empire
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and they liked the idea.
164
00:12:19,940 --> 00:12:23,860
The stone kiosks
of the Ottoman gardens
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are the forebears of our
park bandstands and pavilions.
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Actually, Topkapi Palace
is like a series of kiosks.
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It's not one building.
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It is just different kiosks,
like a marble tent.
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I had thought of the
Ottoman tradition
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as being a long way from the desert,
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but when you say marble tent,
that links it.
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That's right.
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I think it is deep in their culture
because of this nomadic background.
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And the other thing
which I've really noticed
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is that the kiosks are open,
so you look out.
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Yeah.
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Whereas the closed walled gardens of
Persia and Marrakech, you look in.
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Exactly. This is our difference.
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So you have this fantastic view
over the water... Mmm-hmm.
180
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..which is part of the garden.
181
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That's true. Bringing panorama
inside the garden.
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This is the unique feature
of Ottoman paradise gardens.
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They weren't enclosed and private,
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but deliberately positioned
by lakes and rivers
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to look out on and include
the natural world.
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Ottomans hardly touched nature,
187
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because they think
it is God's reflection.
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Right. So they respect it.
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These gardens embrace the beauty
of the natural world around them,
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whilst the gardens of the desert
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deliberately hid
from their surroundings.
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This acceptance
and inclusion of nature
193
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is what most directly connects
Ottoman gardens
194
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with those of modern Europe
195
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and gives them their
distinctive character
196
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within the range of paradise gardens
around the Islamic world.
197
00:14:17,140 --> 00:14:19,540
And like everything in Istanbul,
198
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what I find most extraordinary
about that garden
199
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is this dynamic meeting
of East and West.
200
00:14:31,540 --> 00:14:34,380
The gardens of the Topkapi Palace
201
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do seem to me to shed completely
new light on the idea of paradise.
202
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And I love that idea
203
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of making a garden
to seduce your soul.
204
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Looking out.
205
00:14:47,180 --> 00:14:50,820
Looking out to the world
and looking up to heaven.
206
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But, from here...
207
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..I need to not just look out
but go on,
208
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because the gardens are not
just where East and West meet,
209
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but where East
goes yet further east...
210
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..to India.
211
00:15:15,620 --> 00:15:18,900
Modern India is an exhilarating
and, at times,
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chaotic mixture of languages,
people and religions.
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00:15:22,900 --> 00:15:24,340
Hello!
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I'm beginning my visit
in the capital, Delhi.
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00:15:31,140 --> 00:15:34,700
For 300 years, India was governed
by a Muslim dynasty,
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00:15:34,700 --> 00:15:38,740
founded in 1526 by the warrior king,
Babur.
217
00:15:40,500 --> 00:15:42,980
And at its height,
this Mughal Empire
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00:15:42,980 --> 00:15:45,900
ruled over one and a half
million square miles
219
00:15:45,900 --> 00:15:47,820
of the Indian subcontinent.
220
00:15:55,020 --> 00:15:59,100
When the Mughals swept into modern
Pakistan and northern India from
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00:15:59,100 --> 00:16:04,380
Afghanistan, they built forts and
gardens, wherever they conquered.
222
00:16:05,580 --> 00:16:08,220
These were significantly different
223
00:16:08,220 --> 00:16:11,260
to the other paradise gardens
I've seen so far.
224
00:16:32,660 --> 00:16:36,140
The Islamic gardens of Spain,
Morocco and Iran
225
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were designed for sensual pleasure
and contemplation.
226
00:16:41,260 --> 00:16:43,780
But these Mughal gardens were made
227
00:16:43,780 --> 00:16:47,060
as a public display of reverence
for the dead
228
00:16:47,060 --> 00:16:50,220
and for daily use, by the living.
229
00:16:50,220 --> 00:16:53,940
And this tradition carries on
in exactly the same way today.
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This is Humayun's tomb.
231
00:17:00,140 --> 00:17:04,700
And tomb gardens were the Mughal's
greatest contribution to our story.
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00:17:09,140 --> 00:17:13,420
Humayun was the son of Babur,
born in Kabul in 1508.
233
00:17:13,420 --> 00:17:17,060
The second Mughal emperor
was famously superstitious.
234
00:17:17,060 --> 00:17:20,660
He is said to have never entered
a room left foot first.
235
00:17:20,660 --> 00:17:25,300
His name meant "Lucky", but,
in fact, he was anything but.
236
00:17:25,300 --> 00:17:29,060
And he didn't share his father's
warrior genes either.
237
00:17:29,060 --> 00:17:32,060
Humayun was a lover, apparently,
238
00:17:32,060 --> 00:17:37,020
of sensuality, poetry
and wine and opium.
239
00:17:37,020 --> 00:17:42,060
Which was not what was required
to conquer new territory.
240
00:17:42,060 --> 00:17:47,300
He was exiled to Persia,
where he remained until 1555.
241
00:17:47,980 --> 00:17:51,220
He returned here to Delhi,
was crowned king,
242
00:17:51,220 --> 00:17:54,020
only to die six months later.
243
00:17:59,140 --> 00:18:03,740
The story is that Humayun was
descending steps in his library
244
00:18:03,740 --> 00:18:06,420
when he heard the call to prayer,
stopped,
245
00:18:06,420 --> 00:18:10,980
and got his foot caught in his robes
and tumbled down the steps,
246
00:18:10,980 --> 00:18:13,140
dashing his head on the stone.
247
00:18:13,140 --> 00:18:18,420
And these steps are said to be extra
steep in memory of that tragedy.
248
00:18:22,860 --> 00:18:26,860
His reign may have been short,
but by building this tomb,
249
00:18:26,860 --> 00:18:31,060
Humayun's widow, Hamida Begum,
made sure it was never forgotten.
250
00:18:32,820 --> 00:18:37,700
When it was done, here was this
extraordinary, magnificent monument,
251
00:18:37,700 --> 00:18:42,620
with his body in the centre,
with the face turned towards Mecca.
252
00:18:44,820 --> 00:18:48,500
The architect chosen for the tomb
was from Persia.
253
00:18:48,500 --> 00:18:52,140
And the high double dome
and arched alcoves
254
00:18:52,140 --> 00:18:55,820
are both distinctive elements
from Persian architecture.
255
00:18:55,820 --> 00:18:59,260
The Indian style appears in the
smaller domes, or chooks,
256
00:18:59,260 --> 00:19:01,300
that adorn the roof.
257
00:19:02,500 --> 00:19:05,740
The Mughals revered their
ancestral Persian culture.
258
00:19:05,740 --> 00:19:08,580
And the Persian language
was spoken widely at court.
259
00:19:08,580 --> 00:19:11,260
It is one of the roots
of modern Urdu.
260
00:19:11,260 --> 00:19:14,900
The Urdu term for a paradise garden
is charbagh,
261
00:19:14,900 --> 00:19:17,140
meaning a garden divided into four,
262
00:19:17,140 --> 00:19:19,900
and is almost identical
to the Persian, chahar bagh.
263
00:19:21,740 --> 00:19:24,260
The size and grandeur
of Humayun's tomb
264
00:19:24,260 --> 00:19:27,300
is matched by the scale
of the garden it sits in.
265
00:19:27,300 --> 00:19:30,580
Divided into four quarters,
with four channels of water,
266
00:19:30,580 --> 00:19:33,100
that appear to meet
beneath the tomb,
267
00:19:33,100 --> 00:19:36,100
it's reminiscent
of the Koranic teaching
268
00:19:36,100 --> 00:19:40,100
that the Paradise Garden is
one under which rivers flow.
269
00:19:44,940 --> 00:19:47,380
Akshay Kaul is a landscape architect
270
00:19:47,380 --> 00:19:50,420
and specialist in gardens
of the Mughal Empire.
271
00:19:52,060 --> 00:19:55,980
Let's begin with talking
about the Mughals themselves.
272
00:19:55,980 --> 00:19:59,100
What were they like as a people,
as a culture?
273
00:19:59,100 --> 00:20:02,340
They brought in poetry,
they brought in architecture,
274
00:20:02,340 --> 00:20:05,460
they brought in different ways
of ruling the country.
275
00:20:05,460 --> 00:20:08,740
They brought with them
these charbagh gardens.
276
00:20:08,740 --> 00:20:11,180
Were there gardens here before?
277
00:20:11,180 --> 00:20:14,620
There was no geometry, no order,
no symmetry.
278
00:20:14,620 --> 00:20:17,780
And they were not really
pleasure gardens.
279
00:20:17,780 --> 00:20:21,740
Even the notion of an enclosed
garden, as such, wasn't there.
280
00:20:21,740 --> 00:20:26,820
So, when Babur came with his
gardens, with a new style of garden,
281
00:20:26,820 --> 00:20:31,540
which seems very settled
and grand and ordered,
282
00:20:31,540 --> 00:20:34,620
was this very novel in this culture?
283
00:20:34,620 --> 00:20:36,140
Completely.
284
00:20:36,140 --> 00:20:39,740
To what extent has the garden
changed over the years?
285
00:20:39,740 --> 00:20:42,420
How would it have looked
in its heyday?
286
00:20:42,420 --> 00:20:45,500
The green area that you see
would never be lawns.
287
00:20:45,500 --> 00:20:48,220
They would be much more sunken,
way down.
288
00:20:48,220 --> 00:20:51,180
And there would have been
Jasmines everywhere.
289
00:20:51,180 --> 00:20:54,100
Or there would have been
scented fruits.
290
00:20:54,100 --> 00:20:57,220
So, the idea was, as you're walking,
you're smelling them,
291
00:20:57,220 --> 00:20:59,300
you're almost at that height.
292
00:20:59,300 --> 00:21:01,100
So the whiff of the air,
293
00:21:01,100 --> 00:21:05,220
which would move with the water
in these dusty lands.
294
00:21:05,220 --> 00:21:09,260
Today, most of the fruit trees have
been replaced with larger varieties,
295
00:21:09,260 --> 00:21:11,460
planted at ground level.
296
00:21:11,460 --> 00:21:13,900
And there are other
differences, too.
297
00:21:13,900 --> 00:21:16,580
Would they have used hedges?
298
00:21:16,580 --> 00:21:20,980
We see these clipped hedges around,
is that a Mughal feature?
299
00:21:20,980 --> 00:21:23,060
Definitely not. No.
300
00:21:23,060 --> 00:21:27,140
These hedges or, you know,
boundaries or lawns,
301
00:21:27,140 --> 00:21:29,980
they're never part
of the Mughal vocabulary.
302
00:21:29,980 --> 00:21:34,060
So, did they bring actual gardening
skills, too? I think so. Yeah?
303
00:21:34,060 --> 00:21:39,020
Yeah. I think they brought it with
them from the gardens in Persia.
304
00:21:39,020 --> 00:21:42,980
And also, they were very familiar
with what they had planted there.
305
00:21:42,980 --> 00:21:46,220
So they were constantly trying
to bring those plants in here.
306
00:21:46,220 --> 00:21:50,180
Right. So, it was recreating
the gardens of their homeland?
307
00:21:50,180 --> 00:21:53,340
Yeah. I think that's true with
every culture, you know?
308
00:21:53,340 --> 00:21:55,780
You want a part of your home,
wherever you are.
309
00:21:57,620 --> 00:21:59,820
And the British were no exception.
310
00:22:01,260 --> 00:22:05,500
The great sweeps of lawn
and the large trees
311
00:22:05,500 --> 00:22:07,780
were introduced by the British.
312
00:22:07,780 --> 00:22:12,020
Of course, it's absolutely
out of tune and sympathy
313
00:22:12,020 --> 00:22:14,860
with the paradise garden
that was originally created.
314
00:22:14,860 --> 00:22:18,060
But it has now become the
accepted face of the gardens.
315
00:22:20,140 --> 00:22:22,060
And while today we may be thankful
316
00:22:22,060 --> 00:22:24,660
for these large trees
in the blistering heat,
317
00:22:24,660 --> 00:22:28,500
that isn't where the Mughals
looked for their shade.
318
00:22:28,500 --> 00:22:31,940
Where these geometric sections
cross and meet,
319
00:22:31,940 --> 00:22:33,980
you find these raised platforms.
320
00:22:33,980 --> 00:22:36,460
And a lot of them have now
got trees in them.
321
00:22:36,460 --> 00:22:39,260
But they were originally
intended for tents.
322
00:22:39,260 --> 00:22:42,100
And they were more than just
a shelter on a hot day.
323
00:22:42,100 --> 00:22:44,540
This is where they lived.
324
00:22:44,540 --> 00:22:47,420
This is where government
was conducted.
325
00:22:47,420 --> 00:22:50,820
It's where you enjoyed your gardens,
326
00:22:50,820 --> 00:22:53,860
where you ate and very often
where you slept.
327
00:22:53,860 --> 00:22:57,260
So, you must imagine this garden
as a kind of tented city.
328
00:22:57,260 --> 00:22:59,260
There would be dozens of them.
329
00:22:59,260 --> 00:23:02,380
And beyond, unimpeded by any trees,
330
00:23:02,380 --> 00:23:06,020
you could see the tomb and all
the buildings in their glory.
331
00:23:09,100 --> 00:23:10,780
This meant that,
332
00:23:10,780 --> 00:23:15,020
unlike the reverential stillness of
our own cemeteries and churchyards,
333
00:23:15,020 --> 00:23:18,260
the tomb garden
was filled with life.
334
00:23:22,100 --> 00:23:24,540
Now, this is the oldest tomb
garden...
335
00:23:25,980 --> 00:23:27,980
..and one of the best preserved.
336
00:23:27,980 --> 00:23:31,340
But it is not the most famous.
337
00:23:31,340 --> 00:23:33,300
So, that's where I'm going next.
338
00:23:40,180 --> 00:23:44,420
For long periods, Agra was the
capital of the Mughal Empire
339
00:23:44,420 --> 00:23:47,500
and enjoyed unrivalled power
and prosperity.
340
00:23:47,500 --> 00:23:51,860
And it is here that you will find
the Taj Mahal.
341
00:23:54,020 --> 00:23:58,260
The doors open every day
at the exact moment of sunrise.
342
00:24:00,500 --> 00:24:05,660
I'm told that the gates open at
6:16, not 6:15, but precisely 6:16.
343
00:24:06,180 --> 00:24:09,460
So, I set my alarm for 4:25
to get here,
344
00:24:09,460 --> 00:24:12,820
which did seem very early
and it was pitch-black.
345
00:24:12,820 --> 00:24:15,140
And I rather thought
when I got here,
346
00:24:15,140 --> 00:24:18,060
I might have the place to myself
and I could wander around.
347
00:24:18,060 --> 00:24:20,620
But that was shattered
as soon as I realised
348
00:24:20,620 --> 00:24:22,940
I was at the end
of quite a long queue.
349
00:24:25,460 --> 00:24:29,380
But I made some new friends
to help me pass the time.
350
00:24:32,620 --> 00:24:37,060
Finally, after much checking of
papers and bags, we are allowed in.
351
00:24:40,300 --> 00:24:42,660
As you approach the Taj,
352
00:24:42,660 --> 00:24:47,140
everything is the familiar,
lovely peach-coloured sandstone.
353
00:24:47,140 --> 00:24:50,780
But then, as you peer
through the gate,
354
00:24:50,780 --> 00:24:53,700
there is that incredible
marble building.
355
00:24:55,340 --> 00:24:57,780
And this morning,
it's almost silvery.
356
00:25:17,380 --> 00:25:21,540
The Taj Mahal is not just one of
the most famous tombs in the world,
357
00:25:21,540 --> 00:25:24,380
it is one of the world's
most iconic buildings.
358
00:25:27,020 --> 00:25:31,780
It was commissioned in 1632
by the Mughal ruler Shah Jahan
359
00:25:31,780 --> 00:25:34,620
for his favourite wife, Mumtaz.
360
00:25:34,620 --> 00:25:37,660
She had died the year before,
aged 39,
361
00:25:37,660 --> 00:25:40,580
giving birth to their 14th child.
362
00:25:42,260 --> 00:25:46,300
Shah Jahan was distraught with grief
and set about constructing her tomb
363
00:25:46,300 --> 00:25:49,580
as the greatest building
the world had ever seen.
364
00:25:49,580 --> 00:25:54,660
It was to be no less than an earthly
replica of the house and garden
365
00:25:54,660 --> 00:25:57,580
that Mumtaz now occupied
in paradise.
366
00:25:59,140 --> 00:26:03,020
And it is the beauty
of that love story
367
00:26:03,020 --> 00:26:07,140
that brings people to this
tomb garden in their millions.
368
00:26:10,540 --> 00:26:13,540
The white marble mausoleum
is covered with flowers
369
00:26:13,540 --> 00:26:15,580
and verses from the Koran
370
00:26:15,580 --> 00:26:19,620
and took 20,000 workers
over 20 years to complete.
371
00:26:19,620 --> 00:26:23,580
But the mausoleum is not the only
special feature of the Taj.
372
00:26:25,340 --> 00:26:28,380
I wonder how many people realise
that it is set in a garden.
373
00:26:28,380 --> 00:26:31,420
A garden that was made
as the stones were being laid
374
00:26:31,420 --> 00:26:36,460
and which is just as important, in
its own way, as the tomb itself.
375
00:26:37,860 --> 00:26:41,980
In the Mughal era, this huge garden
was a typical charbagh,
376
00:26:41,980 --> 00:26:45,740
with fruit trees and flowers
planted in deeply sunken beds.
377
00:26:45,740 --> 00:26:48,500
So, the garden we see today
looks very different
378
00:26:48,500 --> 00:26:51,220
to the one made at the same time
as the building.
379
00:26:53,540 --> 00:26:57,820
That central view of the Taj,
the first hit as you walk in,
380
00:26:57,820 --> 00:27:00,660
is so burned into our iconography
of the place,
381
00:27:00,660 --> 00:27:03,300
that, actually, it's easy
to overlook the fact
382
00:27:03,300 --> 00:27:06,140
that it was intended to be viewed
from everywhere.
383
00:27:06,140 --> 00:27:08,820
So, for example, here
from this platform,
384
00:27:08,820 --> 00:27:11,220
the planting would not have risen
any higher than it.
385
00:27:11,220 --> 00:27:13,860
And that would mean that none
of these trees would be here.
386
00:27:13,860 --> 00:27:18,740
And that, instead of being obscured
by the trees, I would be able to see
387
00:27:18,740 --> 00:27:21,980
this wonderful marble vision,
388
00:27:21,980 --> 00:27:26,500
floating above the paradise
garden all around it.
389
00:27:28,740 --> 00:27:32,580
Shah Jahan only had access
to the Taj for a few years
390
00:27:32,580 --> 00:27:37,020
before he was imprisoned by his son,
Aurangzeb, in 1658.
391
00:27:37,020 --> 00:27:38,860
In the following centuries,
392
00:27:38,860 --> 00:27:41,900
control of Agra passed
between different kingdoms.
393
00:27:41,900 --> 00:27:46,060
And by the middle of the 19th
century, the British had taken over.
394
00:27:46,060 --> 00:27:51,260
The gardens of the Taj had become a
tangle of bushes and tall trees.
395
00:27:52,260 --> 00:27:54,980
But at the beginning
of the 20th century,
396
00:27:54,980 --> 00:27:57,580
the viceroy Lord Curzon
swept all this away
397
00:27:57,580 --> 00:28:01,220
and replaced it with lawns
and specimen trees,
398
00:28:01,220 --> 00:28:04,540
giving it the appearance
of an English country park.
399
00:28:09,540 --> 00:28:12,580
The story of the Taj
does not end here.
400
00:28:12,580 --> 00:28:17,060
On the other side of the Yamuna
river, a ruin was discovered.
401
00:28:17,060 --> 00:28:21,300
There had been rumours that this
was the site of a black Taj,
402
00:28:21,300 --> 00:28:24,380
built as a mausoleum
for Shah Jahan himself.
403
00:28:24,380 --> 00:28:26,940
But in the early 1990s,
404
00:28:26,940 --> 00:28:30,620
an archaeological dig revealed this
to be another garden.
405
00:28:32,660 --> 00:28:35,500
The Mehtab Bagh,
or Moonlight Garden,
406
00:28:35,500 --> 00:28:38,180
was the exclusive domain
of the emperor,
407
00:28:38,180 --> 00:28:41,180
where he could enjoy views
of the Taj across the river
408
00:28:41,180 --> 00:28:43,660
in the velvety warmth of night.
409
00:28:43,660 --> 00:28:46,700
When the fragrance of blossom
would be at its strongest
410
00:28:46,700 --> 00:28:50,780
and white flowers glow
in the moonlight.
411
00:28:50,780 --> 00:28:54,620
And what the modern excavations
uncovered at the Mehtab Bagh
412
00:28:54,620 --> 00:28:59,100
have completely challenged our
perception of the Taj Mahal.
413
00:28:59,100 --> 00:29:01,540
Professor Priyaleen Singh's research
414
00:29:01,540 --> 00:29:04,580
is key to understanding the Taj
in its entirety.
415
00:29:05,940 --> 00:29:07,820
Is it fair to say that...
416
00:29:09,060 --> 00:29:13,700
..this is as much part of the
whole garden as the rest of it?
417
00:29:13,700 --> 00:29:15,740
Or is this a separate
piece of garden?
418
00:29:15,740 --> 00:29:19,620
No, this is very much part
of the Taj Mahal complex
419
00:29:19,620 --> 00:29:22,260
because the Taj would sit
in the centre
420
00:29:22,260 --> 00:29:25,300
and you would have a garden
on either side.
421
00:29:25,300 --> 00:29:29,420
Scholars, until very recently,
have tried to rationalise
422
00:29:29,420 --> 00:29:32,820
that the tomb shifted to the edge
of the garden.
423
00:29:32,820 --> 00:29:35,900
But actually, if you look at Mehtab
Bagh and you look at the Taj,
424
00:29:35,900 --> 00:29:39,100
you'll find that the Taj
is sitting right in the centre.
425
00:29:39,100 --> 00:29:40,820
Right in the middle. Yeah.
426
00:29:42,980 --> 00:29:48,060
Professor Singh's plans show how the
emperor would have used the garden.
427
00:29:48,060 --> 00:29:51,100
He would have entered
from the gateway
428
00:29:51,100 --> 00:29:53,380
and then as he progressed,
429
00:29:53,380 --> 00:29:58,620
suddenly then the Taj would get
framed by this pavilion over here.
430
00:29:59,100 --> 00:30:01,860
And then he would walk around.
431
00:30:01,860 --> 00:30:05,940
Shah Jahan would sit at the edge of
the river in one of the pavilions,
432
00:30:05,940 --> 00:30:08,980
the ruins of which
we can still see there,
433
00:30:08,980 --> 00:30:12,500
and then he would see the reflection
of the Taj in this river.
434
00:30:14,740 --> 00:30:18,020
It would have been magical
on a moonlit night, you know,
435
00:30:18,020 --> 00:30:19,780
with the song of the nightingale
436
00:30:19,780 --> 00:30:22,380
and with the fragrance
of all the Jasmines and all.
437
00:30:26,180 --> 00:30:29,100
The discovery of the Mehtab Bagh
438
00:30:29,100 --> 00:30:33,540
was one of the great
sort of horticultural events
439
00:30:33,540 --> 00:30:35,980
of the last 20 years or more.
440
00:30:35,980 --> 00:30:40,020
Because it's doubled the size
of the garden of the Taj,
441
00:30:40,020 --> 00:30:43,100
changed the way we thought about it
and also it completes
442
00:30:43,100 --> 00:30:48,340
this extraordinary story of this man
who was still mourning his wife,
443
00:30:48,780 --> 00:30:53,260
gazing at this fantastic monument
that he had built
444
00:30:53,260 --> 00:30:56,700
as the light of the moon
played on the marble.
445
00:30:56,700 --> 00:31:00,860
Even in their much altered
and unrestored condition,
446
00:31:00,860 --> 00:31:03,660
I think that the gardens
of the Mehtab Bagh
447
00:31:03,660 --> 00:31:05,860
and the Taj Mahal put together
448
00:31:05,860 --> 00:31:08,900
form one of the really important
gardens of the world.
449
00:31:12,860 --> 00:31:14,980
From Babur onwards,
450
00:31:14,980 --> 00:31:18,620
the Mughals would always have sat
on carpets in their gardens,
451
00:31:18,620 --> 00:31:23,580
woven with a cornucopia
of spring flowers and fruits.
452
00:31:23,580 --> 00:31:25,780
Winter, when they brought
them indoors,
453
00:31:25,780 --> 00:31:28,180
they would bring their gardens
with them.
454
00:31:28,180 --> 00:31:32,460
So carpets and gardens were,
for them, inextricably linked.
455
00:31:32,460 --> 00:31:35,500
And it was Akbar, Babur's grandson,
456
00:31:35,500 --> 00:31:39,460
who brought this craft to India
and set up workshops here.
457
00:31:39,460 --> 00:31:42,220
And they're still going today,
so I'm going to visit one.
458
00:31:52,060 --> 00:31:55,020
The owner, Sanjay Kaura,
shows me round.
459
00:32:00,780 --> 00:32:04,260
Do you have an example
of the type of thing
460
00:32:04,260 --> 00:32:07,780
that Akbar would have
introduced from Persia? Oh, yes.
461
00:32:10,020 --> 00:32:11,700
Wow.
462
00:32:11,700 --> 00:32:14,820
So all the rugs that have
a centre medallion to them,
463
00:32:14,820 --> 00:32:17,060
these are of the Persian origin.
464
00:32:17,060 --> 00:32:19,540
Persian rugs. So this is very,
very finely done.
465
00:32:19,540 --> 00:32:21,540
Very intricate floral details.
466
00:32:21,540 --> 00:32:23,420
Just in this small flower
467
00:32:23,420 --> 00:32:26,300
there would be about 12 to 14
different colours.
468
00:32:26,300 --> 00:32:28,340
What would they have
been made out of?
469
00:32:28,340 --> 00:32:31,780
Fine goat wool,
popularly known as pashmina.
470
00:32:31,780 --> 00:32:35,420
Oh, pashmina. God, that's...
But that is so fine, isn't it?
471
00:32:35,420 --> 00:32:39,260
Yeah. So because rugs of this
quality, they require high-density,
472
00:32:39,260 --> 00:32:41,860
so the wool usage
has to be very fine.
473
00:32:41,860 --> 00:32:44,500
Are you still using pretty much
the same techniques?
474
00:32:44,500 --> 00:32:48,220
Oh, yes. Exactly the same
as it was done in the old days.
475
00:32:48,220 --> 00:32:50,580
As the buildings and palaces
of the Mughals
476
00:32:50,580 --> 00:32:53,300
replaced their more modest tents
and pavilions,
477
00:32:53,300 --> 00:32:56,340
the minutely detailed designs
of Persian rugs
478
00:32:56,340 --> 00:32:58,380
began to feel too small,
479
00:32:58,380 --> 00:33:01,820
and a new bolder style
came into fashion.
480
00:33:01,820 --> 00:33:05,060
So then we develop patterns
which were bigger flowers.
481
00:33:05,060 --> 00:33:07,940
Which would hold their own
in a big space. Big space.
482
00:33:07,940 --> 00:33:10,980
How long would it take for you
to make a rug like that?
483
00:33:10,980 --> 00:33:13,300
Four to four and a half months.
484
00:33:13,300 --> 00:33:15,860
So that is a lot of work, isn't it?
485
00:33:16,860 --> 00:33:20,700
Later, the carpets began to take
designs directly from the Taj.
486
00:33:20,700 --> 00:33:24,580
The flowers on the walls of the
tomb were replicated on the rugs.
487
00:33:26,020 --> 00:33:29,060
And I love the fact
that these carpets today
488
00:33:29,060 --> 00:33:32,660
are made exactly as they were
for the Mughal emperors
489
00:33:32,660 --> 00:33:36,860
as they sat enjoying the delights
of their paradise gardens.
490
00:33:45,900 --> 00:33:48,940
Whilst the tomb gardens made
their distinct contribution,
491
00:33:48,940 --> 00:33:52,020
they were not the only type that
reflect the Mughal influence.
492
00:33:54,020 --> 00:33:55,860
So on my way to Jaipur
493
00:33:55,860 --> 00:33:59,100
I'm stopping off to see a garden
of a very different kind.
494
00:34:04,580 --> 00:34:06,420
It's called Samode,
495
00:34:06,420 --> 00:34:11,500
and it is a pleasure garden made
at the end of the Mughal era.
496
00:34:11,500 --> 00:34:13,620
And immediately you
see similarities.
497
00:34:13,620 --> 00:34:16,780
There's water flowing in a channel
outside the house
498
00:34:16,780 --> 00:34:18,820
and it comes to a pool.
499
00:34:18,820 --> 00:34:22,260
But the pool is filled
with lotus flowers.
500
00:34:22,260 --> 00:34:27,140
In tomb gardens, water is such
a powerful symbol of life
501
00:34:27,140 --> 00:34:29,780
that it's never combined
with plants.
502
00:34:29,780 --> 00:34:32,020
But here in this pleasure garden
503
00:34:32,020 --> 00:34:34,940
it's comfortably cluttered
with plants.
504
00:34:34,940 --> 00:34:37,500
The 20 acres of the
Samode gardens
505
00:34:37,500 --> 00:34:40,060
were originally made in the middle
of the 18th century
506
00:34:40,060 --> 00:34:42,780
as the private retreat
of the Samode royal family,
507
00:34:42,780 --> 00:34:47,020
and it remained so until 20 odd
years ago when it became a hotel.
508
00:34:48,780 --> 00:34:53,940
What is immediately apparent to me
is a kind of energy,
509
00:34:54,180 --> 00:34:58,340
and that comes from the water
and the play of the fountains
510
00:34:58,340 --> 00:35:00,380
and the size of the trees.
511
00:35:00,380 --> 00:35:04,140
But this energy is very different
to that of the tomb gardens,
512
00:35:04,140 --> 00:35:09,140
which have elegance and respect
and decorum.
513
00:35:09,180 --> 00:35:11,060
This is playful.
514
00:35:12,860 --> 00:35:15,700
The planting in the beds
is evidence of that.
515
00:35:15,700 --> 00:35:19,980
Shrubs, small trees and flowers
are all muddled together.
516
00:35:19,980 --> 00:35:24,820
And this fulsome planting
is more historically accurate
517
00:35:24,820 --> 00:35:28,940
than the sweeping lawns that have
been inserted into the tomb gardens.
518
00:35:28,940 --> 00:35:32,660
Mind you, there is one element here
that does seem more suited
519
00:35:32,660 --> 00:35:36,340
to a 1960s British back garden
than the Mughal Empire.
520
00:35:38,460 --> 00:35:42,260
I know what you're thinking.
You're thinking crazy paving?!
521
00:35:42,260 --> 00:35:44,340
Really?! Is that accurate?
522
00:35:44,340 --> 00:35:46,780
Well, the answer is yes.
523
00:35:46,780 --> 00:35:51,420
Because apparently this style
of paving, of random stones,
524
00:35:51,420 --> 00:35:55,140
is part of a long-standing
Rajasthan tradition.
525
00:35:59,460 --> 00:36:03,020
The energy of this garden doesn't
detract from the fact that,
526
00:36:03,020 --> 00:36:05,860
like all paradise gardens,
527
00:36:05,860 --> 00:36:09,940
it was intended above all
as a place of contemplation.
528
00:36:11,980 --> 00:36:16,020
To sit here and hear
the birds roosting...
529
00:36:17,420 --> 00:36:19,860
..and to let my mind be still,
530
00:36:19,860 --> 00:36:25,140
I think is tapping into the core
of the paradise garden.
531
00:36:26,460 --> 00:36:29,660
And to have the playfulness
and the entertainment as well
532
00:36:29,660 --> 00:36:32,260
means that this garden works
on lots of levels.
533
00:36:34,100 --> 00:36:35,740
I like it a lot.
534
00:36:50,700 --> 00:36:53,700
One of the features of the
Mughal conquest of India
535
00:36:53,700 --> 00:36:56,740
was their tolerance of other
religions and rulers.
536
00:36:56,740 --> 00:36:59,940
However, without always forcibly
imposing themselves,
537
00:36:59,940 --> 00:37:02,540
their influence spread
in many different ways.
538
00:37:04,660 --> 00:37:06,780
I've left the Islamic Mughal world
539
00:37:06,780 --> 00:37:10,660
and come to the Amer Fort,
just to the north of Jaipur,
540
00:37:10,660 --> 00:37:13,420
base of powerful Hindu Rajputs.
541
00:37:14,940 --> 00:37:18,700
Arriving by elephant
is the most appropriate way
542
00:37:18,700 --> 00:37:22,460
to visit the Amer Fort
because this is how the Raja
543
00:37:22,460 --> 00:37:25,060
would have arrived and his guests,
544
00:37:25,060 --> 00:37:29,060
all sitting in the most
extraordinary fashion
545
00:37:29,060 --> 00:37:31,580
on the back of these
glorious beasts.
546
00:37:36,620 --> 00:37:39,940
There has been a settlement on this
site since the tenth century,
547
00:37:39,940 --> 00:37:43,940
but the Amer Fort that we see today
dates from the 16th century
548
00:37:43,940 --> 00:37:46,860
and was the Palace of the
Rajput King, Man Singh.
549
00:37:48,460 --> 00:37:51,580
As I make my slow
but stately entrance,
550
00:37:51,580 --> 00:37:54,500
women are picking blossom
for garlands.
551
00:37:56,380 --> 00:37:57,780
Thank you.
552
00:38:01,420 --> 00:38:04,380
Inside the gate, the walls
of the palace are decorated
553
00:38:04,380 --> 00:38:07,140
with exquisite details
of flowers and trees.
554
00:38:12,020 --> 00:38:14,540
This is the Ganesh gate.
555
00:38:14,540 --> 00:38:19,700
And Ganesh is the elephant god
which clears obstructions.
556
00:38:21,140 --> 00:38:25,020
So he's often placed above
a gateway or an entrance
557
00:38:25,020 --> 00:38:27,980
to make sure that the
passageway through is easy.
558
00:38:31,140 --> 00:38:33,100
But as you look closer,
559
00:38:33,100 --> 00:38:38,020
you can't help but notice that the
palace is laced with Mughal design.
560
00:38:38,020 --> 00:38:42,060
The fort is actually a combination
of local Rajput Hindi architecture
561
00:38:42,060 --> 00:38:44,060
with classic Mughal style.
562
00:38:44,060 --> 00:38:47,380
This is perhaps most evident of all
in its gardens.
563
00:38:49,900 --> 00:38:54,300
And right at the heart of the palace
is the private Mughal garden
564
00:38:54,300 --> 00:38:57,500
that brings together both
Islamic and Hindi features.
565
00:38:59,300 --> 00:39:03,300
The Mughal garden lies in the centre
of a living complex.
566
00:39:03,300 --> 00:39:06,940
It was made in the middle
of the 17th century.
567
00:39:06,940 --> 00:39:09,980
It's fascinating to me
for two reasons.
568
00:39:09,980 --> 00:39:14,260
The first is that it is
so clearly designed
569
00:39:14,260 --> 00:39:17,620
to be looked at and not walked on.
570
00:39:17,620 --> 00:39:22,300
The paths, such as they are,
are too narrow and uninviting.
571
00:39:22,300 --> 00:39:25,020
And the second thing,
which is really interesting,
572
00:39:25,020 --> 00:39:28,180
is the presence and use of hexagon.
573
00:39:28,180 --> 00:39:30,940
Now, these were not Mughal shapes.
574
00:39:30,940 --> 00:39:33,220
These are Hindu shapes,
575
00:39:33,220 --> 00:39:36,740
and they create triangles
on the indices between them.
576
00:39:36,740 --> 00:39:40,140
Again, that's a Hindu thing,
not a Mughal thing.
577
00:39:40,140 --> 00:39:44,020
So what we're seeing here
by the mid-17th century,
578
00:39:44,020 --> 00:39:46,980
the same period almost exactly
as the Taj Mahal,
579
00:39:46,980 --> 00:39:52,180
is a real convergence of
Mughal influences and Rajput.
580
00:39:55,820 --> 00:39:59,740
The Mughals didn't just tolerate
the Rajputs, but married them.
581
00:39:59,740 --> 00:40:02,900
Man Singh's daughter
married a son of Shah Jahan,
582
00:40:02,900 --> 00:40:08,180
whilst in 1562, Akbar himself wed
a Rajput princess from Amer.
583
00:40:08,820 --> 00:40:11,460
This interweaving
of family and state
584
00:40:11,460 --> 00:40:16,740
encouraged the merging of cultures
and that is evident throughout.
585
00:40:16,900 --> 00:40:19,580
From right up here
at the top of the fort,
586
00:40:19,580 --> 00:40:24,260
you get a perfect bird's eye view of
the Saffron Garden, or Kesar Kyari,
587
00:40:24,260 --> 00:40:28,900
looking like a Persian carpet
laid out above the water.
588
00:40:28,900 --> 00:40:30,980
It's called the Saffron Garden
589
00:40:30,980 --> 00:40:35,820
because apparently it was originally
entirely planted with saffron,
590
00:40:35,820 --> 00:40:39,700
which is incredibly rare
and also has wonderful scent,
591
00:40:39,700 --> 00:40:42,740
and the fragrance would be
blown by the east wind
592
00:40:42,740 --> 00:40:46,380
and carried up to the top of
the fort, where the harem was,
593
00:40:46,380 --> 00:40:49,460
so the women could enjoy
that luxury.
594
00:40:49,460 --> 00:40:51,900
At least, that's the story.
595
00:40:51,900 --> 00:40:54,900
But the inconvenient
horticultural truth
596
00:40:54,900 --> 00:40:58,740
is that the saffron crocus
needs plenty of moisture
597
00:40:58,740 --> 00:41:03,660
and can't survive in the extreme
drought and heat of Rajasthan.
598
00:41:03,860 --> 00:41:06,540
That planting never happened.
599
00:41:06,540 --> 00:41:09,740
The legend and the name stuck.
600
00:41:09,740 --> 00:41:14,020
The truth is that, however
wonderful this looks from on high,
601
00:41:14,020 --> 00:41:16,460
it doesn't bear much
close inspection.
602
00:41:16,460 --> 00:41:18,900
It's planted up at the moment
with a euphorbia,
603
00:41:18,900 --> 00:41:21,540
there's a euphorbia
from Madagascar called milii.
604
00:41:21,540 --> 00:41:24,140
And, whilst they are colourful,
605
00:41:24,140 --> 00:41:27,620
it's very spiny and thorny,
and it's a real desert plant.
606
00:41:27,620 --> 00:41:29,740
And that seems to be at odds
607
00:41:29,740 --> 00:41:34,740
with the whole sensuous quality
of pleasure gardens.
608
00:41:34,740 --> 00:41:37,980
How one longs for that
idea of saffron.
609
00:41:42,740 --> 00:41:44,900
The gardens of Amer Fort
610
00:41:44,900 --> 00:41:49,540
are evidence of Mughal culture
spreading beyond its own court.
611
00:41:49,540 --> 00:41:53,460
And, while some gardens
fell into decline elsewhere,
612
00:41:53,460 --> 00:41:56,220
elements of their design
lived on here.
613
00:42:04,900 --> 00:42:08,460
I've come back to Delhi, and
it's nearly time to travel on.
614
00:42:08,460 --> 00:42:11,900
But, before I go, I want to see
what influence, if any,
615
00:42:11,900 --> 00:42:14,940
these Mughal gardens have had
on modern India.
616
00:42:17,500 --> 00:42:21,060
Has the spirit of their gardens
or the love of gardening survived?
617
00:42:25,100 --> 00:42:27,500
I've come to the Sunder Nursery.
618
00:42:27,500 --> 00:42:31,660
From 1912, the British used the land
for raising shrubs and trees
619
00:42:31,660 --> 00:42:34,260
as part of the great rebuilding
of New Delhi.
620
00:42:36,060 --> 00:42:39,620
But its earlier incarnation was
as a Mughal garden known as
621
00:42:39,620 --> 00:42:41,540
the Azim Bagh, or great garden.
622
00:42:43,100 --> 00:42:46,660
It's been recently restored with
a Persian-inspired carpet garden
623
00:42:46,660 --> 00:42:49,220
at its core, but the
nursery still remains,
624
00:42:49,220 --> 00:42:52,740
and the whole space is now an
unlikely but charming mixture
625
00:42:52,740 --> 00:42:55,980
of a grand Mughal landscape
and a local garden centre.
626
00:42:57,340 --> 00:42:58,860
You are the gardener in charge?
627
00:42:58,860 --> 00:43:01,620
Yes, yes. How big is your nursery?
628
00:43:01,620 --> 00:43:04,100
It is...about 75 acres.
629
00:43:04,100 --> 00:43:05,940
75 acres? Acres.
630
00:43:05,940 --> 00:43:08,180
That's big.
How many people work here?
631
00:43:08,180 --> 00:43:10,420
Near about 300 person.
632
00:43:10,420 --> 00:43:12,660
300 people working here.
633
00:43:12,660 --> 00:43:16,180
And do you sell mainly to private
gardeners,
634
00:43:16,180 --> 00:43:18,620
or big orders to firms
and contracts?
635
00:43:18,620 --> 00:43:20,740
Anybody come, anybody take.
636
00:43:20,740 --> 00:43:23,220
OK. No reserve.
First come, first served.
637
00:43:27,060 --> 00:43:29,700
When I visit nurseries
in other countries,
638
00:43:29,700 --> 00:43:33,740
it's the small differences
that I find so interesting.
639
00:43:33,740 --> 00:43:38,860
These rows of terracotta pots -
you would never see that in the UK.
640
00:43:40,660 --> 00:43:45,620
Also, you have lots of herbs
and culinary plants.
641
00:43:45,740 --> 00:43:49,140
And there is a real sense that
these are loved plants.
642
00:43:51,540 --> 00:43:55,100
And it's fascinating to see
what people are buying.
643
00:43:55,100 --> 00:43:57,940
Excuse me, sir.
What have you bought there?
644
00:43:57,940 --> 00:44:00,980
Well, this is a curry plant,
and it's used in cooking,
645
00:44:00,980 --> 00:44:03,500
for cooking purposes.
Are you the cook in your household?
646
00:44:03,500 --> 00:44:05,060
Yeah, at times, and I need them.
647
00:44:05,060 --> 00:44:07,060
And do you enjoy the process
of gardening?
648
00:44:07,060 --> 00:44:08,500
Oh, that's wonderful.
649
00:44:08,500 --> 00:44:11,380
It's not only my hobby,
but I am a surgeon here in Delhi.
650
00:44:11,380 --> 00:44:14,180
It's also my de-stressing activity.
651
00:44:14,180 --> 00:44:15,820
Wow. I just love doing gardening.
652
00:44:23,540 --> 00:44:25,740
What do you particularly
like to grow?
653
00:44:25,740 --> 00:44:29,820
Again, this season, I'd love
to have pansy, petunia...
654
00:44:29,820 --> 00:44:32,980
Right. And are you good
at growing flowers?
655
00:44:32,980 --> 00:44:35,100
About 60% of the plants,
they survive.
656
00:44:35,100 --> 00:44:37,140
I do not know that I am...
That's pretty good!
657
00:44:37,140 --> 00:44:40,180
That's pretty good, by my standards,
I think!
658
00:44:42,180 --> 00:44:44,860
After seeing so many historical
gardens,
659
00:44:44,860 --> 00:44:47,500
it's lovely to get to the
nuts and bolts,
660
00:44:47,500 --> 00:44:50,100
get behind the scenes and see a
real garden working.
661
00:44:50,100 --> 00:44:54,140
And there is a magic about
a well-ordered nursery that,
662
00:44:54,140 --> 00:44:57,700
if you love plants and gardening,
never fails to work.
663
00:45:16,340 --> 00:45:21,580
Any time spent in India is
exhilarating and exhausting in equal
measure.
664
00:45:23,980 --> 00:45:27,900
It's really expanded my
idea of paradise gardens,
665
00:45:27,900 --> 00:45:31,500
and fascinating, the way that
they have affected Indian culture
666
00:45:31,500 --> 00:45:33,900
and embraced it at the same time.
667
00:45:33,900 --> 00:45:36,060
Back at home,
668
00:45:36,060 --> 00:45:40,500
our gardens have absorbed these
influences in all kinds of ways,
669
00:45:40,500 --> 00:45:42,740
and all kinds of gardens, too.
670
00:45:55,780 --> 00:45:58,980
Having travelled halfway across
the world, I've now come home,
671
00:45:58,980 --> 00:46:01,940
but to rather a special home,
because this is Highgrove,
672
00:46:01,940 --> 00:46:04,980
the home of the Prince of Wales.
673
00:46:04,980 --> 00:46:07,940
But I'm here because, in 2000,
674
00:46:07,940 --> 00:46:11,180
he decided that he would like
a garden created,
675
00:46:11,180 --> 00:46:14,820
inspired by a pair
of Turkish rugs that he owned.
676
00:46:16,460 --> 00:46:19,100
The Islamic garden expert and
designer Emma Clark
677
00:46:19,100 --> 00:46:21,140
was one of the team
behind this project.
678
00:46:27,460 --> 00:46:28,660
Yeah, gosh.
679
00:46:32,620 --> 00:46:35,020
What I'm struck, when you come in,
680
00:46:35,020 --> 00:46:37,180
is how it does feel like walking
681
00:46:37,180 --> 00:46:39,620
into a courtyard in Marrakech,
or...
682
00:46:39,620 --> 00:46:43,740
Yes, well, that's one of the ideas,
is that it is a kind of sanctuary.
683
00:46:45,260 --> 00:46:47,340
The Prince of Wales's carpet garden
684
00:46:47,340 --> 00:46:51,020
is one of Britain's first
charbaghs, or paradise gardens.
685
00:46:53,220 --> 00:46:57,300
The garden started life at
the Chelsea Flower Show in 2001,
686
00:46:57,300 --> 00:46:59,620
and then was transferred
to Highgrove.
687
00:46:59,620 --> 00:47:01,980
And whilst it retains
its original layout,
688
00:47:01,980 --> 00:47:03,660
it has evolved over the years.
689
00:47:04,820 --> 00:47:07,260
I'm sure this has changed.
690
00:47:07,260 --> 00:47:08,660
In what ways?
691
00:47:08,660 --> 00:47:11,020
It's changed hugely.
It's a bigger site,
692
00:47:11,020 --> 00:47:13,140
and the planting has changed a lot.
693
00:47:13,140 --> 00:47:18,020
At the time, we were trying to
create something which much more
spoke of...
694
00:47:18,020 --> 00:47:19,460
..the Islamic garden,
695
00:47:19,460 --> 00:47:22,300
because we knew, at Chelsea, that
it's theatre and it's for a week.
696
00:47:24,340 --> 00:47:26,940
The local climate has forced
some of the changes.
697
00:47:28,180 --> 00:47:31,020
There are plants found in a
conventional Persian garden
698
00:47:31,020 --> 00:47:33,340
that wouldn't be at all happy
in a Cotswold winter.
699
00:47:35,260 --> 00:47:39,660
There are very few plants here
that you would find
700
00:47:39,660 --> 00:47:42,620
in the sort of traditional
charbagh in the Middle East.
701
00:47:42,620 --> 00:47:45,300
Yes. You walk in
and you see clematis...
702
00:47:45,300 --> 00:47:48,620
..which you're never going to see.
703
00:47:48,620 --> 00:47:53,180
But I like the hardy geranium
and the pelargoniums.
704
00:47:53,180 --> 00:47:55,580
I mean, the fact that we are into
South Africa,
705
00:47:55,580 --> 00:47:58,060
and South America for the fuchsia...
706
00:47:58,060 --> 00:48:00,660
The verbena, also.
And the verbena, yes, exactly.
707
00:48:00,660 --> 00:48:02,900
I don't think that matters, do you?
708
00:48:02,900 --> 00:48:06,340
No, I don't.
The Islamic world is large.
709
00:48:06,340 --> 00:48:10,820
It exists in different climates and
environments, different planting,
710
00:48:10,820 --> 00:48:14,060
but there's always an
underlying unity of spirit.
711
00:48:14,060 --> 00:48:15,500
So, at what point...
712
00:48:17,140 --> 00:48:20,380
..does one depart so much
that it becomes something else?
713
00:48:20,380 --> 00:48:24,580
It's inspired by Islamic
design principles,
714
00:48:24,580 --> 00:48:27,060
and that is the hard landscaping.
715
00:48:27,060 --> 00:48:31,780
Right. We have the central fountain,
which is beautiful in any climate,
716
00:48:31,780 --> 00:48:34,380
and you've got four rills
717
00:48:34,380 --> 00:48:36,420
coming down from the corners,
718
00:48:36,420 --> 00:48:38,860
representing the four
rivers of paradise,
719
00:48:38,860 --> 00:48:42,500
so I think we have
a beautiful marriage
720
00:48:42,500 --> 00:48:46,580
between England
and the Islamic world.
721
00:48:50,140 --> 00:48:54,700
I think the really interesting thing
about this carpet garden
722
00:48:54,700 --> 00:48:58,580
is how it has been
adapted and personalised,
723
00:48:58,580 --> 00:49:03,660
both to this particular location
and to the UK in general.
724
00:49:03,820 --> 00:49:05,300
And it does show that,
725
00:49:05,300 --> 00:49:09,940
if you have the basic principles
of the paradise garden,
726
00:49:09,940 --> 00:49:15,020
you can allow it to flex and
bend according to different
circumstances,
727
00:49:15,140 --> 00:49:18,700
and it doesn't matter whether that
is in the desert or here in Britain.
728
00:49:21,100 --> 00:49:24,380
The enclosed nature of the Prince's
carpet garden
729
00:49:24,380 --> 00:49:28,100
reproduces the seclusion of
a courtyard in the Islamic world.
730
00:49:29,220 --> 00:49:31,540
Yet the essential elements for a
paradise garden
731
00:49:31,540 --> 00:49:35,340
can be expressed in many forms
and, before I end this journey,
732
00:49:35,340 --> 00:49:38,180
I want to look at the ways that
they've been made in this country
733
00:49:38,180 --> 00:49:39,980
in some very different settings.
734
00:49:51,580 --> 00:49:54,420
I've come north to Bradford,
a city more famous
735
00:49:54,420 --> 00:49:57,380
for its industrial past
than its modern gardens.
736
00:50:00,860 --> 00:50:04,300
I'm visiting what was the
former home of Lord Masham,
737
00:50:04,300 --> 00:50:07,420
a local mill owner, who at
the end of the 19th-century
738
00:50:07,420 --> 00:50:10,860
sold his mansion and 50 acres
of land to the City Council
739
00:50:10,860 --> 00:50:13,820
for half its value on the
condition that the grounds
740
00:50:13,820 --> 00:50:17,660
became a public park and that
the house would be rebuilt
741
00:50:17,660 --> 00:50:18,980
as an art gallery.
742
00:50:20,660 --> 00:50:23,260
And this is the result.
743
00:50:23,260 --> 00:50:26,900
At first, this does seem a
very unlikely setting
744
00:50:26,900 --> 00:50:28,860
for a paradise garden.
745
00:50:28,860 --> 00:50:32,820
But 20 years ago, money was raised
from the National Lottery
746
00:50:32,820 --> 00:50:35,660
to create a Mughal garden.
747
00:50:35,660 --> 00:50:39,940
This is appropriate, because
Bradford has one of the largest
748
00:50:39,940 --> 00:50:42,980
Muslim populations of
any part of the UK.
749
00:50:52,100 --> 00:50:54,740
The site chosen for the garden
was formerly a car park.
750
00:50:56,180 --> 00:51:00,540
But what is now present has all the
recognisable
751
00:51:00,540 --> 00:51:03,300
elements of the Mughal gardens
of the Indian subcontinent.
752
00:51:04,500 --> 00:51:08,660
But it also has a very distinctively
British flavour, too.
753
00:51:12,620 --> 00:51:15,860
The garden is divided by
a network of broad paths,
754
00:51:15,860 --> 00:51:18,140
water channels and pools.
755
00:51:18,140 --> 00:51:21,060
Whilst it's simpler and noticeably
greener than the tomb gardens
756
00:51:21,060 --> 00:51:25,420
I saw in India, it still has
the same harmonious atmosphere
757
00:51:25,420 --> 00:51:27,340
of peace and tranquillity.
758
00:51:32,260 --> 00:51:37,420
The local imam, Idris Watts, tells
me how the community use the garden.
759
00:51:37,580 --> 00:51:39,420
You see people here, families,
760
00:51:39,420 --> 00:51:41,620
and you see the children
playing in the water,
761
00:51:41,620 --> 00:51:44,300
and different communities
come and mix together.
762
00:51:44,300 --> 00:51:46,540
We've got people come here
just in the mornings,
763
00:51:46,540 --> 00:51:48,340
to sit and contemplate.
764
00:51:48,340 --> 00:51:50,820
We have people come
for wedding photos,
765
00:51:50,820 --> 00:51:52,620
I in fact got married in Bradford,
766
00:51:52,620 --> 00:51:54,660
and I had my wedding photos
taken here.
767
00:51:54,660 --> 00:51:59,860
Of course, water is the key element
you'll find in any Islamic garden.
768
00:51:59,980 --> 00:52:03,420
Yup. Whereas, with great respect
to this part of the world,
769
00:52:03,420 --> 00:52:06,220
water is not particularly
in shortfall, is it?
770
00:52:06,220 --> 00:52:09,380
No. Are people aware of
that significance?
771
00:52:09,380 --> 00:52:10,940
Or do you think that's been lost?
772
00:52:10,940 --> 00:52:12,340
No, I think it's... I mean,
773
00:52:12,340 --> 00:52:15,180
water has a great significance in
the Koranic scripture,
774
00:52:15,180 --> 00:52:17,420
it talks about everything's
created from water.
775
00:52:17,420 --> 00:52:20,940
And there's a huge play on
the flowing of water.
776
00:52:20,940 --> 00:52:23,940
So this water, which is pumped
round and round, isn't it,
777
00:52:23,940 --> 00:52:26,260
keeping the flow going? Yeah.
778
00:52:26,260 --> 00:52:30,420
You've got a very large Muslim
community here in Bradford. Yes.
779
00:52:30,420 --> 00:52:33,860
Do you think that this resonates
with them particularly?
780
00:52:33,860 --> 00:52:35,900
What's so beautiful
about this garden
781
00:52:35,900 --> 00:52:38,180
is that it's using the
Yorkshire stone, as well,
782
00:52:38,180 --> 00:52:41,380
so it sort of brings together
all the beauty of the local
783
00:52:41,380 --> 00:52:44,220
community, and also the
contribution of the subcontinent.
784
00:52:44,220 --> 00:52:46,060
And so it's a great message, really,
785
00:52:46,060 --> 00:52:50,420
for Bradford to show that we can
really harmonise these traditions,
786
00:52:50,420 --> 00:52:52,340
and they're not in conflict
with one another.
787
00:52:53,900 --> 00:52:57,820
Although the essential elements for
a paradise garden remain constant,
788
00:52:57,820 --> 00:53:02,100
wherever I have travelled,
I've seen how they are reinterpreted
789
00:53:02,100 --> 00:53:04,060
according to different
situations and cultures.
790
00:53:06,140 --> 00:53:08,740
When this garden is empty,
791
00:53:08,740 --> 00:53:10,940
particularly if the light
is a bit grey,
792
00:53:10,940 --> 00:53:13,300
it can look a bit flat,
a bit dead, even.
793
00:53:13,300 --> 00:53:15,180
But as soon as it fills up
with people,
794
00:53:15,180 --> 00:53:18,460
then you have children running
around and playing,
795
00:53:18,460 --> 00:53:22,220
and people naturally
drawn to the water,
796
00:53:22,220 --> 00:53:25,260
then it becomes alive,
and it's that that gives it
797
00:53:25,260 --> 00:53:26,660
the richness that is missing.
798
00:53:28,020 --> 00:53:31,180
And it is as though
we have taken an idea
799
00:53:31,180 --> 00:53:32,820
but, perhaps unconsciously,
800
00:53:32,820 --> 00:53:38,060
adapted it to the very specific
needs of our civilisation,
801
00:53:38,860 --> 00:53:43,260
our century and even
specifically this place.
802
00:53:49,420 --> 00:53:52,300
My final garden is rather different.
803
00:53:53,700 --> 00:53:57,780
For a start, this isn't really
a paradise garden at all,
804
00:53:57,780 --> 00:54:00,300
but one more synonymous with
the English countryside.
805
00:54:03,860 --> 00:54:07,340
Hestercombe House, just
outside Taunton in Somerset,
806
00:54:07,340 --> 00:54:10,980
was the home of Lord and Lady
Portman, and in 1903,
807
00:54:10,980 --> 00:54:15,020
they commissioned Edwin Lutyens
to create a new formal garden.
808
00:54:15,020 --> 00:54:20,300
Lutyens was to become one of the
most famous architects of the 20th
century,
809
00:54:20,700 --> 00:54:23,580
and he worked in partnership
with Gertrude Jekyll,
810
00:54:23,580 --> 00:54:24,780
who oversaw the planting.
811
00:54:26,420 --> 00:54:31,100
The result is recognised as
one of Britain's great gardens.
812
00:54:31,100 --> 00:54:35,540
But despite its Edwardian provenance
and its very English rural setting,
813
00:54:35,540 --> 00:54:39,500
I think this garden is filled with
the influence of Islamic design.
814
00:54:40,860 --> 00:54:45,580
The architect Edwin Lutyens has
created a garden
815
00:54:45,580 --> 00:54:49,380
which is redolent with those
influences.
816
00:54:49,380 --> 00:54:54,620
These rills, narrow and straight
and leading the eye forward,
817
00:54:54,820 --> 00:54:59,140
following the lines of the water,
are drawn as much from
818
00:54:59,140 --> 00:55:02,780
the gardens of Andalusia
as they are from the Dutch
819
00:55:02,780 --> 00:55:05,020
and the French gardens
that preceded them.
820
00:55:05,020 --> 00:55:08,780
And the way that he's used stones
across the rills,
821
00:55:08,780 --> 00:55:12,100
which breaks up the reflection,
adds texture to it,
822
00:55:12,100 --> 00:55:16,500
and that's identical to the way
that in Persian gardens,
823
00:55:16,500 --> 00:55:21,460
water was broken and moulded and
shaped as it moved along.
824
00:55:21,460 --> 00:55:25,220
The bones of Lutyens' garden
825
00:55:25,220 --> 00:55:27,860
is made from paradise.
826
00:55:31,580 --> 00:55:34,140
And once you start looking,
827
00:55:34,140 --> 00:55:36,780
you see these influences everywhere,
828
00:55:36,780 --> 00:55:41,140
even in what is seemingly the most
conventionally English of gardens.
829
00:55:42,900 --> 00:55:46,260
The huge, central plat is deeply
sunk and looked down upon
830
00:55:46,260 --> 00:55:48,140
from the walkways around it,
831
00:55:48,140 --> 00:55:51,100
just like the sunken beds
of a paradise garden.
832
00:55:51,100 --> 00:55:53,980
And another example is Lutyens'
use of grass.
833
00:55:55,820 --> 00:55:59,820
If you think about it,
grass here is clear,
834
00:55:59,820 --> 00:56:02,180
it's unbroken by planting.
835
00:56:02,180 --> 00:56:05,820
A strip like this, which is
neither lawn nor path, really,
836
00:56:05,820 --> 00:56:10,580
actually serves in exactly
the same way as a strip of water,
837
00:56:10,580 --> 00:56:15,500
clear and unbroken, does in
so many of the paradise gardens.
838
00:56:18,540 --> 00:56:22,620
Lutyens was to go on and do a
great deal of work in India,
839
00:56:22,620 --> 00:56:26,260
but even at this early stage,
the Islamic influence is clear.
840
00:56:28,300 --> 00:56:31,500
Claire Greenslade is Hestercombe's
head gardener,
841
00:56:31,500 --> 00:56:34,100
and I asked her about
Lutyens' design.
842
00:56:34,100 --> 00:56:37,780
Clare, we've got a plan here, tell
me what it's of. Let me have a look.
843
00:56:37,780 --> 00:56:40,700
So, this is a plan of the rill
that we're looking at here,
844
00:56:40,700 --> 00:56:45,740
the east rill, which shows Lutyens'
stonework going all the way along,
845
00:56:45,740 --> 00:56:49,460
all the way along here,
mixed with Jekyll's planting.
846
00:56:49,460 --> 00:56:53,740
The thing that strikes me from that
is how graphic it is on the ground.
847
00:56:53,740 --> 00:56:56,500
A lot of the parts of the garden
that Lutyens has designed,
848
00:56:56,500 --> 00:56:59,660
when you look at his original
designs, they're really true.
849
00:56:59,660 --> 00:57:01,700
You probably know this garden
better than anyone.
850
00:57:01,700 --> 00:57:04,220
What makes it unique?
851
00:57:04,220 --> 00:57:06,900
I think it's the Lutyens hand.
852
00:57:06,900 --> 00:57:08,900
The structure's so important.
853
00:57:08,900 --> 00:57:12,340
It's the sharp lines, it's
the grass, it's the edges,
854
00:57:12,340 --> 00:57:14,420
it's quite theatrical.
855
00:57:14,420 --> 00:57:17,860
In the winter, you really get
to see the bare bones of Lutyens.
856
00:57:17,860 --> 00:57:21,900
And it means that even when there's
nothing flowering, it's still...
857
00:57:21,900 --> 00:57:23,540
It still takes your breath away.
858
00:57:27,620 --> 00:57:30,660
The paradise gardens that I've
visited across the world
859
00:57:30,660 --> 00:57:33,900
have all had this combination
of wonder and delight.
860
00:57:35,340 --> 00:57:37,940
Whether it be the stately
tomb gardens of India...
861
00:57:39,260 --> 00:57:41,420
..grandeur of the Alhambra...
862
00:57:42,940 --> 00:57:46,100
..or the lush calm of a
courtyard garden in Marrakech.
863
00:57:47,900 --> 00:57:51,780
And all these gardens have not
just been beautiful and dramatic,
864
00:57:51,780 --> 00:57:55,820
but also filled with
symbolism and meaning.
865
00:57:55,820 --> 00:58:00,900
With their constant elements
of water and shade and greenery,
866
00:58:01,100 --> 00:58:05,180
they all stay true to the one
underlying idea
867
00:58:05,180 --> 00:58:08,820
of a vision of paradise on earth.
868
00:58:08,820 --> 00:58:11,060
However exotic these
gardens have been,
869
00:58:11,060 --> 00:58:14,300
however rich the experience
of visiting,
870
00:58:14,300 --> 00:58:17,060
the thought that remains
strongest...
871
00:58:18,580 --> 00:58:22,220
..is the influence that they've
had right across the world,
872
00:58:22,220 --> 00:58:24,300
including our own gardens.
75776
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