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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:07,920 --> 00:00:09,990 This is Great Britain. 2 00:00:10,040 --> 00:00:12,076 Over a third of our country 3 00:00:12,120 --> 00:00:14,111 is made up of mountains. 4 00:00:14,160 --> 00:00:16,549 And I'm off to travel through them. 5 00:00:17,880 --> 00:00:21,350 It's a journey that will take me to the northernmost highlands, 6 00:00:21,400 --> 00:00:22,833 through Central Scotland, 7 00:00:22,880 --> 00:00:25,155 along the backbone of the Pennines, 8 00:00:25,200 --> 00:00:28,590 and across into the Cumbrian hills. 9 00:00:28,640 --> 00:00:32,997 I want to find out what our upland ranges are really like. 10 00:00:33,040 --> 00:00:37,158 How have they shaped us, our culture and our history? 11 00:00:38,360 --> 00:00:41,636 Now, I was brought up in the suburban flatlands of Essex, 12 00:00:41,680 --> 00:00:44,558 and these days I live in the heart of Central London, 13 00:00:44,600 --> 00:00:48,388 where the highest thing I see every day is usually an office block. 14 00:00:48,440 --> 00:00:51,398 The mountains are a new territory to me 15 00:00:51,440 --> 00:00:56,309 and by visiting them, I'll be looking at Britain from a brand new perspective. 16 00:00:57,520 --> 00:01:00,990 I'm going to start in the country of my ancestors, 17 00:01:01,040 --> 00:01:03,429 in the peaks of North Wales. 18 00:01:03,920 --> 00:01:06,832 Where the mountains are God's own climbing frame. 19 00:01:06,880 --> 00:01:07,995 Fantastic! 20 00:01:08,840 --> 00:01:11,195 Where wild ponies roam the slopes. 21 00:01:12,560 --> 00:01:13,879 Gehh! 22 00:01:14,400 --> 00:01:17,676 And I find a novel approach to recycling. 23 00:01:19,480 --> 00:01:22,995 But, above all, I want to discover just how precious and fragile 24 00:01:23,040 --> 00:01:24,792 these landscapes really are. 25 00:01:25,280 --> 00:01:30,035 What does the future hold for our wild places in the 21 st century? 26 00:01:31,680 --> 00:01:34,877 These are the mountains of Snowdonia. 27 00:02:01,760 --> 00:02:05,230 Here, perched on a mountain called Elidir Fawr, 28 00:02:05,280 --> 00:02:08,352 I can see nearly every peak of Snowdonia. 29 00:02:09,320 --> 00:02:11,515 These, the greatest mountains of Wales, 30 00:02:11,560 --> 00:02:14,677 are crammed into a small corner of the northwest, 31 00:02:14,720 --> 00:02:16,836 just a few miles from the coast. 32 00:02:16,880 --> 00:02:19,553 This is an ancient setting of epic struggles 33 00:02:19,600 --> 00:02:21,716 from myth and legend. 34 00:02:22,520 --> 00:02:24,795 King Arthur fought battles here 35 00:02:24,840 --> 00:02:27,434 with Merlin the Magician at his side. 36 00:02:27,480 --> 00:02:29,789 Dragons lived in the valleys and the lakes. 37 00:02:29,840 --> 00:02:33,310 And there's even a story about how these mountains were created. 38 00:02:34,000 --> 00:02:36,798 There were two giants. One was called ldris 39 00:02:36,840 --> 00:02:38,751 and he had a throne called Cadair ldris, 40 00:02:38,800 --> 00:02:41,519 about 40 miles away, a giant mountain over there, 41 00:02:41,560 --> 00:02:45,075 and another was called Rhita, the beard collector. 42 00:02:45,120 --> 00:02:49,511 He liked to collect rival giants' beards and make them into a hat, 43 00:02:49,560 --> 00:02:53,838 or later on into a lovely cloak and um...apparently, 44 00:02:53,880 --> 00:02:58,396 one day ldris got very, very cross and started kicking rocks 45 00:02:58,440 --> 00:03:02,831 in the direction of Rhita and er... and that was the way 46 00:03:02,880 --> 00:03:07,431 that the extraordinary landscape that is Snowdonia was created. 47 00:03:09,600 --> 00:03:13,912 Apart from all the beards stuff, it's surprising how close this account seems to be. 48 00:03:13,960 --> 00:03:16,520 Though it did happen a little bit more slowly. 49 00:03:16,560 --> 00:03:20,633 These peaks are, after all, the result of an epic battle. 50 00:03:20,680 --> 00:03:24,798 They were made by collisions in the earth's crust and explosions at the earth's core, 51 00:03:24,840 --> 00:03:27,673 400 million years ago. 52 00:03:27,720 --> 00:03:30,553 But today we face another battle, 53 00:03:30,600 --> 00:03:34,070 not between giants, between the mountains and man. 54 00:03:34,120 --> 00:03:37,271 Who exactly is going to be the winner here? 55 00:03:38,840 --> 00:03:43,675 Well, I may be Welsh, but I've never encountered the Welsh mountains before. 56 00:03:43,720 --> 00:03:47,429 Or any tent exactly like this, for that matter. 57 00:03:48,960 --> 00:03:51,838 I want to begin with the biggest mountain, Snowdon. 58 00:03:51,880 --> 00:03:53,950 It's just across the valley there 59 00:03:54,000 --> 00:03:57,037 and it's home to the greatest legend of all. 60 00:03:59,360 --> 00:04:03,876 Its Welsh name, Yr Wyddfa, means burial place. 61 00:04:03,920 --> 00:04:07,993 The summit is the resting place of Rhita, the beard collector, 62 00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:11,555 and he was killed by King Arthur himself. 63 00:04:11,600 --> 00:04:15,752 In legend, its soaring peak was built to bury him. 64 00:04:15,800 --> 00:04:17,028 And why not? 65 00:04:17,080 --> 00:04:19,355 It's a dramatic, solid pyramid, 66 00:04:19,400 --> 00:04:24,633 the highest point on a crown of ridges known as the Snowdon horseshoe. 67 00:04:25,400 --> 00:04:30,076 The mountain rules the region that bears its name - Snowdonia. 68 00:04:30,120 --> 00:04:32,918 Its dominating presence is the major reason 69 00:04:32,960 --> 00:04:39,069 over 8 million people come to Snowdonia National Park every year. 70 00:04:39,120 --> 00:04:42,795 But as I get to the town of Llanberis, at the foot of its northwest flank, 71 00:04:42,840 --> 00:04:45,400 I begin to wonder whether it's Snowdon's stunning beauty... 72 00:04:45,440 --> 00:04:46,429 Morning! 73 00:04:46,480 --> 00:04:50,553 ..or indeed any ancient legend that really draws the crowds. 74 00:04:50,600 --> 00:04:52,352 Could it be instead that Snowdon 75 00:04:52,400 --> 00:04:54,516 is the only mountain in Britain 76 00:04:54,560 --> 00:04:57,233 you don't have to walk up to get to the top? 77 00:04:58,240 --> 00:05:01,391 l can't help noticing that none of you are obviously - look at me, 78 00:05:01,440 --> 00:05:07,595 l'm wearing my special mountain boots, l've got my special wet weather gear, 79 00:05:07,640 --> 00:05:10,791 l've got all this spe... outer layer on 80 00:05:10,840 --> 00:05:13,957 and you're dressed as if you're going to a tea shop here! 81 00:05:16,880 --> 00:05:19,440 The Snowdon Railway, based on a Swiss design, 82 00:05:19,480 --> 00:05:21,914 has been here for over a century. 83 00:05:24,120 --> 00:05:26,475 It was built in 1 896 84 00:05:26,520 --> 00:05:29,717 solely for the purpose of ferrying tourists to the top of the mountain. 85 00:05:32,280 --> 00:05:36,592 These days, 1 50,000 people take the train every year. 86 00:05:39,280 --> 00:05:41,748 Each journey on the steam locomotive, 87 00:05:41,800 --> 00:05:46,669 uses a third of a ton of coal and 400 gallons of water. 88 00:05:50,520 --> 00:05:54,195 For some, the railway is a scar on the mountain. 89 00:05:54,240 --> 00:05:58,279 For others, it's a way of making the mountain accessible to everyone. 90 00:05:59,400 --> 00:06:02,472 Normally the passengers are taken right to the summit, 91 00:06:02,520 --> 00:06:06,229 but even this train is subject to engineering works. 92 00:06:06,280 --> 00:06:09,113 And today it's stopped halfway. 93 00:06:09,160 --> 00:06:11,628 And there's no alternative bus service. 94 00:06:13,480 --> 00:06:17,029 Even from halfway up, though, the view is spectacular. 95 00:06:17,080 --> 00:06:20,709 Looking west, I can see the dramatic foothills of Snowdon 96 00:06:20,760 --> 00:06:23,672 just nine miles from the Irish Sea. 97 00:06:24,080 --> 00:06:25,069 Further south, 98 00:06:25,120 --> 00:06:28,556 the mountains in the distance guard the Llyn Peninsula. 99 00:06:29,520 --> 00:06:33,069 The passengers take a moment or two to enjoy the view... 100 00:06:33,120 --> 00:06:34,439 All aboard, 101 00:06:34,480 --> 00:06:37,199 ..then it's everybody back on the train. 102 00:06:37,240 --> 00:06:38,673 So that's it. 103 00:06:39,320 --> 00:06:43,233 You know it's about... l don't know, we've only... 104 00:06:43,280 --> 00:06:46,158 We've only been here for less... under five minutes. 105 00:06:46,200 --> 00:06:49,237 lt's a bit of a heavy turnaround. l think. 106 00:06:49,280 --> 00:06:52,909 You get here, five minutes later, you're carted off down the mountain. 107 00:06:57,440 --> 00:07:00,113 There we are. Bye-bye. 108 00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:05,478 As for me, l intend to see the view from the very top. 109 00:07:08,640 --> 00:07:12,030 If it went all the way, the train would take an hour 110 00:07:12,080 --> 00:07:13,559 to reach the summit. 111 00:07:13,600 --> 00:07:17,354 It's going to take me longer than that to walk from the halfway point. 112 00:07:37,920 --> 00:07:42,835 Well, this is not only the noisiest mountain top l've been to so far 113 00:07:42,880 --> 00:07:46,668 but that's partly because they're demolishing the caf� here, 114 00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:50,679 but also cos of the jets flying over, the helicopters, the trains coming up. 115 00:07:50,720 --> 00:07:57,717 lt's also, in its own way, the most crowded mountain top l've ever been to. 116 00:08:02,520 --> 00:08:06,798 350,000 people climb Snowdon every year. 117 00:08:06,840 --> 00:08:09,752 On top of all those rail commuters. 118 00:08:09,800 --> 00:08:12,394 It is Britain's most popular mountain. 119 00:08:12,440 --> 00:08:17,389 When the caf� is finally rebuilt, people will be able to come here for their lunch. 120 00:08:17,440 --> 00:08:20,273 But today, it's just about the view. 121 00:08:24,160 --> 00:08:26,435 Getting to the summit is the obvious thing. 122 00:08:26,480 --> 00:08:28,948 On a day like today anyway, because... 123 00:08:30,320 --> 00:08:36,839 you can see for miles and miles and miles. 124 00:08:48,640 --> 00:08:51,108 It's such an accessible mountain 125 00:08:51,160 --> 00:08:55,711 that it's rather inevitable that some things are left behind. 126 00:08:56,400 --> 00:09:02,191 Banana skin. Likes the dank, warm places, banana skin, 127 00:09:02,240 --> 00:09:04,674 a tea bag, 128 00:09:04,720 --> 00:09:06,915 chewing gum, 129 00:09:06,960 --> 00:09:09,554 and here a cigarette butt, cigarette butt. 130 00:09:10,680 --> 00:09:12,398 Definitely the hand of man, 131 00:09:12,440 --> 00:09:15,113 visible in this wild place. 132 00:09:17,440 --> 00:09:20,671 The caf�, the railway, half a million pairs of feet. 133 00:09:20,720 --> 00:09:24,599 Alasl There isn't a maid service to clear up after us. 134 00:09:24,640 --> 00:09:26,676 Or there wasn't until recently. 135 00:09:27,680 --> 00:09:32,549 Robin Kevan is also known as Rob the Rubbish. 136 00:09:32,600 --> 00:09:36,878 When Rob gave up work as a social worker two years ago, he saw the light. 137 00:09:36,920 --> 00:09:39,275 Or at least he saw the litter. 138 00:09:39,320 --> 00:09:42,357 And he took on a mission to clean up Britain's mountains. 139 00:09:42,400 --> 00:09:45,153 He's been doing it virtually every day since. 140 00:09:45,200 --> 00:09:48,636 We put that on so that people know who this strange man is 141 00:09:48,680 --> 00:09:50,272 that's creeping around the mountains. 142 00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:53,198 That's to obviously, clearly, to prevent me being run down 143 00:09:53,240 --> 00:09:56,152 by any articulated lorries that should be driving around... 144 00:09:56,200 --> 00:09:57,713 Or a runaway train even. 145 00:09:57,760 --> 00:09:59,591 OK, but l've got all my bits, and then we're off. 146 00:09:59,640 --> 00:10:02,996 What a glorious day to go and search for a bit of litter. 147 00:10:03,040 --> 00:10:06,316 So... you know you... So you're at the mountain, 148 00:10:06,360 --> 00:10:09,636 and you're one of the few, it seems to me, who make their journey up here 149 00:10:09,680 --> 00:10:12,990 with a definite purpose in mind, onto Snowdon. 150 00:10:13,040 --> 00:10:14,393 But er...what...have you ever... 151 00:10:14,440 --> 00:10:16,271 What sort of things have you discovered then? 152 00:10:16,320 --> 00:10:18,595 - A lot of er... a lot of cans... - Yeah. 153 00:10:18,640 --> 00:10:20,915 - ..takeaway cartons... - Yes. 154 00:10:20,960 --> 00:10:22,234 - ..and er... - Sweetie wrappers. 155 00:10:22,280 --> 00:10:26,273 ..sweetie wrappers, and sandwich wrappers and, l mean, plastic bottles by the... 156 00:10:26,320 --> 00:10:30,677 - Abundant number of those, partic... - All those health food drinks, 157 00:10:30,720 --> 00:10:32,915 l suppose, that people have brought themselves up there. 158 00:10:32,960 --> 00:10:34,791 - Absolutely. - Got themselves healthy, and then... 159 00:10:34,840 --> 00:10:38,037 And as soon as they're empty, they go. Soon as they're nice and light... 160 00:10:38,080 --> 00:10:39,399 - Right. - ..they go. 161 00:10:39,440 --> 00:10:40,953 - Yeah. - But most people don't. 162 00:10:41,000 --> 00:10:45,710 l've gotta make that point. Most people are as horrified about litter as the rest of us. 163 00:10:45,760 --> 00:10:48,513 - Having said that, look at that. - Yeah. 164 00:10:48,560 --> 00:10:52,758 - A couple of plastic... - We'd better move up to these ones, l think. 165 00:10:52,800 --> 00:10:53,994 Just hidden away, look! 166 00:10:54,040 --> 00:10:56,600 - You never know what you're gonna find. - No. 167 00:10:57,200 --> 00:11:00,636 - Look at this. - And full as well. 168 00:11:00,680 --> 00:11:03,035 Do you think they've been left here by somebody for later? 169 00:11:03,080 --> 00:11:05,594 l wouldn't have thought so. They've been here... 170 00:11:05,640 --> 00:11:07,915 This is what happened, they got too heavy to carry up. 171 00:11:07,960 --> 00:11:09,598 They've been here a long time, haven't they? 172 00:11:09,640 --> 00:11:12,712 They got too heavy to carry up and somebody just thought... 173 00:11:12,760 --> 00:11:14,512 l'll just empty these. 174 00:11:16,080 --> 00:11:18,435 - Just get rid of them. - So, l mean, we talk about rubbish, 175 00:11:18,480 --> 00:11:20,675 but most of it is this stuff, and l always say 176 00:11:20,720 --> 00:11:23,314 if there's a $10 note on the ground, we'd soon pick that up, 177 00:11:23,360 --> 00:11:26,750 but a plastic bottle never ever, ever goes away. 178 00:11:26,800 --> 00:11:30,793 My goodness, look, a hairgrip. We're doing very well down here. 179 00:11:30,840 --> 00:11:33,593 You leave the sheep droppings, l assume, do you? 180 00:11:33,640 --> 00:11:36,234 Yeah, we'll leave that to nature. 181 00:11:36,280 --> 00:11:39,511 They're biodegradable, l'm pleased to say they are. 182 00:11:39,560 --> 00:11:41,152 Litter is thoughtless. 183 00:11:41,960 --> 00:11:46,112 And it ruins what Rob sees as the purity of the mountains. 184 00:11:46,760 --> 00:11:51,629 But other things are sometimes left here precisely because of that purity. 185 00:11:52,840 --> 00:11:57,868 This is now becoming a more common occurrence all the time. 186 00:11:57,920 --> 00:12:02,311 People scattering the ashes of a loved one on the mountain top and... 187 00:12:03,640 --> 00:12:05,756 rangers say that sometimes they come up here 188 00:12:05,800 --> 00:12:10,032 and it feels as if there's been a light dusting of frost on the summit. 189 00:12:10,080 --> 00:12:12,435 The problem is that it alters the ecology 190 00:12:12,480 --> 00:12:16,314 because ashes are more fertile than rock, 191 00:12:16,360 --> 00:12:17,679 and things start to grow. 192 00:12:17,720 --> 00:12:22,271 Not things, in fact, like these flowers, which are plastic. 193 00:12:22,320 --> 00:12:25,676 And l don't wanna be intrusive, but obviously intrusiveness 194 00:12:25,720 --> 00:12:27,472 is at the centre of the problem. 195 00:12:27,520 --> 00:12:31,638 The mountain means all things to all men. 196 00:12:31,680 --> 00:12:35,639 Even... Even deceased men. 197 00:12:40,240 --> 00:12:42,549 Though it may sometimes feel like it, 198 00:12:42,600 --> 00:12:44,477 Snowdon is not actually... 199 00:12:44,520 --> 00:12:47,159 a public memorial in the sky. 200 00:12:47,200 --> 00:12:49,668 It can be a troublesome place. 201 00:12:55,280 --> 00:12:57,396 l don't really like coming down the mountain. 202 00:12:57,440 --> 00:12:59,396 lt's not just the agony of it. 203 00:12:59,440 --> 00:13:03,592 Somehow you're always then sort of plopping, jumping down on to things 204 00:13:03,640 --> 00:13:08,111 and crushing the back, and all the joints are rebelling against the whole process 205 00:13:08,160 --> 00:13:10,116 of jerking your way down. 206 00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:12,754 When you're going up, you see, somehow you're making a route, 207 00:13:12,800 --> 00:13:16,759 so you're sort of...you're hopping, you're using all your ingenuity, 208 00:13:16,800 --> 00:13:22,477 and when you get to the top doing that, you're...positively exhausted, obviously. 209 00:13:22,520 --> 00:13:25,592 So on the way down you're tired, and the grass is slippery. 210 00:13:25,640 --> 00:13:30,191 The rocks, if they're wet at all, become... just nightmares. 211 00:13:30,240 --> 00:13:32,879 The whole process is awful 212 00:13:32,920 --> 00:13:37,516 and of course the pack which somehow leaned you into the mountain 213 00:13:37,560 --> 00:13:40,791 so you could somehow become a sort of monkey going up, 214 00:13:40,840 --> 00:13:44,469 on the way down, it just has a tendency to push you over, 215 00:13:44,520 --> 00:13:51,039 and make you feel as if you're like a ridiculous, ancient old man. 216 00:13:53,600 --> 00:13:57,388 Mountains have a way of getting their own back. 217 00:13:57,440 --> 00:14:00,671 It's on the way down that most accidents happen. 218 00:14:00,720 --> 00:14:03,678 Because of the number of people who use this mountain, 219 00:14:03,720 --> 00:14:07,713 there has to be a dedicated service ready to deal with accidents. 220 00:14:09,440 --> 00:14:11,590 There might be a railway up the side of it, 221 00:14:11,640 --> 00:14:14,359 but Snowdon can still be dangerous. 222 00:14:18,080 --> 00:14:19,832 The Snowdon Mountain Rescue Team 223 00:14:19,880 --> 00:14:22,952 get nearly a hundred callouts every year. 224 00:14:23,000 --> 00:14:25,673 It's the busiest in England and Wales. 225 00:14:25,720 --> 00:14:28,188 And when they're not rescuing people for real, 226 00:14:28,240 --> 00:14:29,275 they're practising. 227 00:14:29,320 --> 00:14:34,155 This is their training exercise, and I am about to join them. 228 00:14:34,920 --> 00:14:36,239 - Hi, hello. - Hello. 229 00:14:36,280 --> 00:14:39,033 Hello. You're all from Llanberis. 230 00:14:39,080 --> 00:14:41,355 Now, l'm very bad at my Welsh pronunciation bef0r3 w3 st4rt. 231 00:14:41,400 --> 00:14:44,119 That's terrible. Llanberis? ls that good enough? 232 00:14:44,160 --> 00:14:46,390 Good cos l've been such a bogus Welshman. 233 00:14:48,960 --> 00:14:52,316 The Llanberis rescue team, all volunteers, 234 00:14:52,360 --> 00:14:55,955 are practising getting a casualty out of a tight spot. 235 00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:59,276 It's quite a common problem. And it needs a lot of helping hands. 236 00:14:59,320 --> 00:15:00,833 And they're looking for a dummy. 237 00:15:00,880 --> 00:15:02,711 Well...I'm free. 238 00:15:02,760 --> 00:15:05,593 I volunteered to be the injured climber. 239 00:15:05,640 --> 00:15:08,200 And it's not just the spot which is tight. 240 00:15:08,240 --> 00:15:09,832 This is just for safety. 241 00:15:09,880 --> 00:15:11,518 That's just for safety, to sort of... 242 00:15:11,560 --> 00:15:14,358 Just in case we drop you off the stretcher that's gonna support you. 243 00:15:14,400 --> 00:15:17,233 Just in case you drop me off the stretcher! 244 00:15:18,280 --> 00:15:21,556 It's rather comforting to be in the hands of experts. 245 00:15:21,600 --> 00:15:24,592 Even if they are throwing me off the edge of a cliff. 246 00:15:24,640 --> 00:15:26,437 - l feel like a... - That's right, isn't it, Pete? 247 00:15:26,480 --> 00:15:28,277 l feel like a beef Wellington, in fact. 248 00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:31,428 Keep it coming. 249 00:15:31,480 --> 00:15:34,517 OK. OK, very smooth. 250 00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:37,638 - Nice and slowly. - Sorry. 251 00:15:37,680 --> 00:15:38,954 OK. 252 00:15:39,000 --> 00:15:40,672 You all right, Griff, nice view? 253 00:15:40,720 --> 00:15:42,631 l'm, well, to be honest... 254 00:15:42,680 --> 00:15:45,035 Are you speechless? 255 00:15:45,080 --> 00:15:48,356 Well, no, l'm not speechless so much as thinking this is sort of like the... 256 00:15:48,400 --> 00:15:50,197 lf you'd like to stop you just say, OK? 257 00:15:50,240 --> 00:15:52,993 This is the most comfortable way of coming down off the mountain. 258 00:15:53,040 --> 00:15:57,238 This may look like a lot of fun but only last night, the team spent five hours 259 00:15:57,280 --> 00:15:59,919 carrying a 1 6-stone man with a broken ankle, 260 00:15:59,960 --> 00:16:01,996 down off the mountain opposite. 261 00:16:02,800 --> 00:16:04,438 Hey, we're nearly down. 262 00:16:04,480 --> 00:16:07,756 lt was a remarkably smooth descent, these are fantastic. 263 00:16:07,800 --> 00:16:13,318 You know, very comfortable, cosy, berths, really, you know, 264 00:16:13,360 --> 00:16:17,831 and l'm utterly restricted, l can't move around at all. 265 00:16:18,600 --> 00:16:21,990 ln fact, l imagine there's probably a basement in King's Cross 266 00:16:22,040 --> 00:16:25,112 where you can pay for this sort of thing to be done to you. 267 00:16:26,120 --> 00:16:28,429 lf l could help in any way, do say. 268 00:16:30,600 --> 00:16:34,195 Mountain rescue isn't just a job for civilian volunteers. 269 00:16:34,240 --> 00:16:36,754 The Royal Air Force is also there to help, 270 00:16:36,800 --> 00:16:40,156 especially when a hospital is needed quickly. 271 00:16:40,200 --> 00:16:43,556 The yellow helicopters so familiar in Britain's mountains 272 00:16:43,600 --> 00:16:45,511 have saved countless lives. 273 00:16:45,560 --> 00:16:49,758 And RAF rescue has a particular connection to Snowdonia. 274 00:16:49,800 --> 00:16:51,791 This was where it all began. 275 00:16:52,680 --> 00:16:55,877 The first mountain rescue team was formed in 1 943 276 00:16:55,920 --> 00:17:00,277 with little more than a few pairs of boots and some borrowed rope. 277 00:17:01,200 --> 00:17:03,634 Well, there's no escaping for me now. 278 00:17:03,680 --> 00:17:06,672 As part of the exercise, the RAF rescue helicopter 279 00:17:06,720 --> 00:17:08,199 is going to winch me aboard 280 00:17:08,240 --> 00:17:11,550 just like they do for real around 30 times a year. 281 00:17:12,560 --> 00:17:16,599 I was told to keep my eyes shut against the downdraft of the rotor blades, 282 00:17:16,640 --> 00:17:19,313 so I've no idea what being rescued looks like. 283 00:17:20,000 --> 00:17:22,833 But I can tell you that it felt amazingly smooth. 284 00:17:23,800 --> 00:17:26,712 Mind you, I didn't have any broken limbs, 285 00:17:26,760 --> 00:17:29,797 this was good weather and not a raging storm. 286 00:17:29,840 --> 00:17:32,274 Quite a hairy job to go out in because, l mean... 287 00:17:32,320 --> 00:17:35,039 - Yeah. - ..partly because the accidents, l assume, 288 00:17:35,080 --> 00:17:37,514 happen when conditions are bad, don't they? 289 00:17:37,560 --> 00:17:41,473 People don't get lost when the weather's nice, so they say. 290 00:17:41,520 --> 00:17:44,637 And people tend to call people missing when it gets dark. 291 00:17:44,680 --> 00:17:48,639 So we quite often get called out to search for people in bad weather, 292 00:17:48,680 --> 00:17:51,672 at night, which is quite tricky in itself. 293 00:17:51,720 --> 00:17:54,553 lt's a fantastic feeling when you do find that person 294 00:17:54,600 --> 00:17:58,195 that otherwise without you would have stayed out all night. 295 00:18:01,560 --> 00:18:04,518 Snowdon may yet have to find new ways to cope 296 00:18:04,560 --> 00:18:07,313 with its half a million visitors a year. 297 00:18:07,360 --> 00:18:14,118 Legendary Yrwuffa has not finished being a battleground between man and nature. 298 00:18:14,800 --> 00:18:17,189 But nearby there are plenty of examples 299 00:18:17,240 --> 00:18:20,152 of thousands of years of harmonious relationship 300 00:18:20,200 --> 00:18:23,272 between human beings and the mountains. 301 00:18:26,200 --> 00:18:29,078 I've come to the most northerly part of Snowdonia, 302 00:18:29,120 --> 00:18:31,759 just a stone's throw from the Irish Sea, 303 00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:33,950 to the edge of the Carneddau plateau. 304 00:18:34,000 --> 00:18:36,912 which stretches for 77 square miles. 305 00:18:36,960 --> 00:18:41,476 And I'm here to witness an unusual annual event. 306 00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:44,830 The sun is shining on the mountain now, there's a blue sky, 307 00:18:44,880 --> 00:18:47,838 it's a gorgeous day...for a roundup. 308 00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,112 - Morning, everyone. - Morning. 309 00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:58,436 I'm joining some local farmers on a kind of Welsh rodeo. 310 00:19:01,920 --> 00:19:04,718 If I manage to hang on. 311 00:19:06,840 --> 00:19:11,072 These hills are home to a herd of wild Welsh mountain ponies. 312 00:19:11,720 --> 00:19:13,711 They range completely freely. 313 00:19:13,760 --> 00:19:15,034 But now they're so few in number 314 00:19:15,080 --> 00:19:17,514 that they are threatened by disease and inbreeding. 315 00:19:17,560 --> 00:19:20,711 So, once a year, the farmers take them off the mountains 316 00:19:20,760 --> 00:19:23,149 for a bit of a checkup. 317 00:19:23,200 --> 00:19:26,476 Gareth Wyn Jones has been gathering up wild ponies all his life. 318 00:19:26,520 --> 00:19:29,353 He knows that our noisy arrival will start the roundup. 319 00:19:30,120 --> 00:19:31,633 But so do the ponies. 320 00:19:31,680 --> 00:19:35,514 Their ears are back, their tails are up and off they go. 321 00:19:38,280 --> 00:19:40,077 Scattered over thousands of acres 322 00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:43,954 are fewer than 1 00 purebred Welsh Mountain Ponies. 323 00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:47,117 There are only about 400 in the whole of Snowdonia 324 00:19:47,160 --> 00:19:50,550 and the farmers have taken on the job of keeping them in good health. 325 00:19:50,600 --> 00:19:53,239 - They're quite small ponies. - They are very small ponies, yeah, 326 00:19:53,280 --> 00:19:54,395 but they're tough. 327 00:19:54,440 --> 00:19:57,955 You've gotta think that we're on a gorgeous day today up here. 328 00:19:58,000 --> 00:19:59,956 - Yeah. - You could come up here next week, 329 00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:02,355 and you could be in snow up to your ankles, 330 00:20:02,400 --> 00:20:04,550 and you think, there'd be no grazing for you, 331 00:20:04,600 --> 00:20:06,397 but these boys arrive. 332 00:20:06,440 --> 00:20:07,668 Right. 333 00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:09,950 But there's no money in this for you. 334 00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:13,197 l mean, in terms of... This isn't a productive farming business for you 335 00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:14,798 - to keep these horses. - No, no, no. 336 00:20:14,840 --> 00:20:17,673 - So why do you do it? - Well, it's just a way of life. 337 00:20:17,720 --> 00:20:19,995 My father has kept them, 338 00:20:20,040 --> 00:20:23,919 my grandfather kept them, my great-grandfather kept them, 339 00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:26,235 so we can go back about nearly 300 years 340 00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:28,111 with keeping these ponies on the mountain. 341 00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:30,230 But the ponies themselves go back further than that. 342 00:20:30,280 --> 00:20:32,874 The ponies go back to the Celtic times. 343 00:20:34,560 --> 00:20:37,711 Welsh history itself is being preserved here. 344 00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:40,911 These ponies have been in these hills for 2,000 years. 345 00:20:40,960 --> 00:20:42,712 They're part of this place. 346 00:20:42,760 --> 00:20:45,877 The annual roundup is a way of making sure this continues. 347 00:20:45,920 --> 00:20:48,639 But it does mean catching them first. 348 00:20:53,880 --> 00:20:55,916 Get ready. Here come some down now. 349 00:21:00,080 --> 00:21:02,958 And now, everywhere you look, 350 00:21:03,000 --> 00:21:05,719 there are little groups of ponies. This is fantastic. 351 00:21:07,240 --> 00:21:09,834 We're lucky to see any ponies at all. 352 00:21:09,880 --> 00:21:13,555 Henry VIII ordered the slaughter of all nags of a small stature 353 00:21:13,600 --> 00:21:17,388 because he wanted every horse in the land to be able to carry a soldier 354 00:21:17,440 --> 00:21:18,873 in a full suit of armour. 355 00:21:18,920 --> 00:21:21,309 But as you can see they're difficult to catch, 356 00:21:21,360 --> 00:21:25,399 and this breed survived the cull...just. 357 00:21:25,440 --> 00:21:28,000 There are a couple escaping down over there. 358 00:21:28,040 --> 00:21:30,395 A mother and child doing a quick... 359 00:21:30,440 --> 00:21:32,271 Quick, get out of the way. 360 00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:38,070 The farmers are herding the ponies into the corner of two walls, 361 00:21:38,120 --> 00:21:40,554 so that they can take them down to the farm. 362 00:21:52,480 --> 00:21:54,994 So we've got the... ls that the lot? 363 00:21:55,040 --> 00:21:57,349 No, we've been a little bit unlucky today. 364 00:21:57,400 --> 00:21:59,789 We've had about three quarters of what we should've had really. 365 00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:02,593 - So how many have you got there? - There's about 50 there, l think. 366 00:22:02,640 --> 00:22:05,473 - There was a thundering of hooves. - Yeah. 367 00:22:09,760 --> 00:22:11,796 When they get to a field next to the farm, 368 00:22:11,840 --> 00:22:14,274 they'll be checked over for signs of illness. 369 00:22:14,320 --> 00:22:18,518 But they look pretty feisty to me, with their uncut manes, 370 00:22:18,560 --> 00:22:20,835 hanging in the late sunlight. 371 00:22:20,880 --> 00:22:24,395 Here we are. They look contented enough, don't they? 372 00:22:25,840 --> 00:22:27,319 My little ponies. 373 00:22:30,240 --> 00:22:35,234 Aah. The ponies are just one example of a delicate natural balance. 374 00:22:35,280 --> 00:22:39,478 The mountains may be vast and solid but they shelter a fragile ecology. 375 00:22:39,520 --> 00:22:42,193 And we can upset it very easily. 376 00:22:42,240 --> 00:22:46,119 Eight miles south of the ponies' home is Cwm Idwal. 377 00:22:46,160 --> 00:22:50,676 A huge rocky arena, deep in the heart of the Snowdonian mountains. 378 00:22:50,720 --> 00:22:55,919 It too supports a delicate natural balance... in miniature. 379 00:22:57,160 --> 00:23:00,197 I've come here with Barbara Jones, who's a botanist. 380 00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:02,151 That's because these grim-looking cliffs 381 00:23:02,200 --> 00:23:05,875 are home to a lot of very rare mountain plants. 382 00:23:05,920 --> 00:23:10,710 We're looking for the tiny species that survive against big odds. 383 00:23:13,360 --> 00:23:15,351 What can we see here, Barbara? 384 00:23:15,400 --> 00:23:16,799 Well, lots of rock! 385 00:23:16,840 --> 00:23:18,398 A few plants though, look. 386 00:23:18,440 --> 00:23:20,795 We've got moss, obviously, and what are these ones here? 387 00:23:20,840 --> 00:23:22,353 That's, erm... 388 00:23:22,400 --> 00:23:26,712 a sedum. That's a stonecrop. They grow very closely to the rocks 389 00:23:26,760 --> 00:23:28,671 so that they can avoid being windswept, 390 00:23:28,720 --> 00:23:31,359 and they can take any heat that the rock's giving to them. 391 00:23:31,400 --> 00:23:34,073 So, being small in the mountains is definitely an advantage. 392 00:23:34,120 --> 00:23:40,116 Cos that's one of the things that l find enchanting about mountains, in a way, 393 00:23:40,160 --> 00:23:42,196 is that when you make your way up, 394 00:23:42,240 --> 00:23:46,631 and you sort of come to the very massive places, 395 00:23:46,680 --> 00:23:48,750 dominated by these huge slopes, 396 00:23:48,800 --> 00:23:50,677 you suddenly find that the rest of the world 397 00:23:50,720 --> 00:23:53,837 - goes miniaturised... - Mm-hm. 398 00:23:53,880 --> 00:23:56,758 ..and the plants get tiny and detailed, 399 00:23:56,800 --> 00:23:59,189 so it's worth getting down and crawling about, isn't it? 400 00:23:59,240 --> 00:24:01,674 - lt certainly is. - You suddenly see things. 401 00:24:01,720 --> 00:24:05,269 Cwm Idwal is cold, damp and north-facing. 402 00:24:05,320 --> 00:24:06,833 Which makes it an ideal place 403 00:24:06,880 --> 00:24:11,032 to find the sort of plant that usually lives in the Arctic. 404 00:24:11,080 --> 00:24:13,196 And what's this one here? 405 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:16,596 That one is purple saxifrage. Now that's a really special plant. 406 00:24:16,640 --> 00:24:19,108 This is one of the toughest plants that you will find in Snowdonia, 407 00:24:19,160 --> 00:24:22,038 or even in the world. lt grows in the furthest north, 408 00:24:22,080 --> 00:24:24,514 in the northern end of Greenland. 409 00:24:24,560 --> 00:24:26,278 And if you look closely at this plant, 410 00:24:26,320 --> 00:24:29,790 can you see that on the tips of all the leaves 411 00:24:29,840 --> 00:24:33,116 there's a little kind of a silvery, glistening blob? 412 00:24:33,160 --> 00:24:36,914 Now if you use this lens and get close in and look at that, 413 00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:39,269 and you'll see. 414 00:24:39,320 --> 00:24:44,030 Now, the idea of that is that this plant grows on lime rich rocks, 415 00:24:44,080 --> 00:24:48,517 but it can't take all the lime in, so it secretes the excess lime 416 00:24:48,560 --> 00:24:52,109 onto little blobs on the edge of its leaves, and these glisten, 417 00:24:52,160 --> 00:24:54,913 - and they really look quite beautiful. - Yeah. 418 00:24:57,000 --> 00:25:01,232 These rare Arctic plants are barometers for climate change. 419 00:25:01,280 --> 00:25:02,599 If they begin to disappear, 420 00:25:02,640 --> 00:25:07,236 it'll be a sure sign that global warming is affecting the mountain ecology, 421 00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:09,510 but temperature rise isn't the only issue. 422 00:25:09,560 --> 00:25:11,118 Let's see what we got on here. 423 00:25:12,120 --> 00:25:14,236 Ah, here we are, look. 424 00:25:14,280 --> 00:25:15,872 This is an interesting one. 425 00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,754 This is called mountain sorrel, and this is a real Arctic alpine. 426 00:25:19,800 --> 00:25:22,030 This is about the furthest south it grows in Britain. 427 00:25:22,080 --> 00:25:24,719 The local shepherds used to put this on their sandwiches. 428 00:25:24,760 --> 00:25:28,469 So when you taste that, it's quite a nice... 429 00:25:28,520 --> 00:25:32,479 sweet taste, it's like watercress, but a bit sweeter, isn't it? 430 00:25:32,520 --> 00:25:34,556 - lt is. - Mm... it's quite nice. 431 00:25:34,600 --> 00:25:36,795 So that's an important one. And you find... 432 00:25:36,840 --> 00:25:38,353 But you don't want me grazing on it. 433 00:25:38,400 --> 00:25:41,710 l don't want you or anyone else grazing on it, so to speak, 434 00:25:41,760 --> 00:25:44,149 because it isn't a common plant. You won't find it down there, 435 00:25:44,200 --> 00:25:45,997 and you won't find it further south than here... 436 00:25:46,040 --> 00:25:48,634 - Right. - ..so it is an important plant. 437 00:25:48,680 --> 00:25:52,309 In fact, it's not hungry people munching on the mountain flora 438 00:25:52,360 --> 00:25:53,679 that's the problem, 439 00:25:53,720 --> 00:25:55,756 it's hungry sheep. 440 00:25:55,800 --> 00:25:57,631 Sheep grazing is traditional here. 441 00:25:57,680 --> 00:25:59,875 lt's been traditional for hundreds of years. 442 00:26:00,480 --> 00:26:04,029 And sheep, obviously, like to eat these types of plants, 443 00:26:04,080 --> 00:26:06,674 so they are restricted to areas that sheep can't get to. 444 00:26:06,720 --> 00:26:08,915 They'd never grow down on the grassland... 445 00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:14,273 But in a way, Barbara, the whole idea that we have of these mountains... 446 00:26:14,320 --> 00:26:17,995 is we think of them as great natural places, 447 00:26:18,040 --> 00:26:23,034 but in fact, we look... As we gaze across these mountains, 448 00:26:23,080 --> 00:26:26,868 we see a landscape which has been created 449 00:26:26,920 --> 00:26:29,115 by...well, not by man, but by, in fact, by sheep! 450 00:26:29,160 --> 00:26:32,038 By sheep, yeah. As an ecologist, l look at this and my heart sinks. 451 00:26:32,080 --> 00:26:34,594 l think, oh dear! lt could look so much better. 452 00:26:34,640 --> 00:26:37,438 So l think if we could get back some of that diversity... 453 00:26:37,480 --> 00:26:40,358 l'm not saying let's have woodland everywhere and scrub everywhere. 454 00:26:40,400 --> 00:26:42,038 But if we could just get some of it back, 455 00:26:42,080 --> 00:26:45,834 l think that it would make such a difference to the landscape, to the diversity, 456 00:26:45,880 --> 00:26:47,518 to the plants, to the animals. 457 00:26:47,560 --> 00:26:49,198 l think it would be wonderful! 458 00:26:52,560 --> 00:26:57,315 At one time, most of this mountain area was covered with forest and scrub. 459 00:26:57,360 --> 00:27:00,557 Now, thanks to sheep, all is grass. 460 00:27:02,480 --> 00:27:04,391 This is a huge changel 461 00:27:04,440 --> 00:27:07,750 And it's part of the traditional history of the countryside. 462 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:10,633 But men and farming are just a tiny episode 463 00:27:10,680 --> 00:27:12,318 in the real story of the mountains. 464 00:27:12,360 --> 00:27:14,112 The man whose theory of evolution 465 00:27:14,160 --> 00:27:16,390 would change the way we thought about ourselves, 466 00:27:16,440 --> 00:27:21,434 Charles Darwin, came to Cwm Idwal in 1 831. 467 00:27:21,480 --> 00:27:23,277 He and a colleague were on an expedition 468 00:27:23,320 --> 00:27:27,199 to investigate how old the earth really was. 469 00:27:27,240 --> 00:27:30,710 They were searching amongst the rocks here for fossils 470 00:27:30,760 --> 00:27:34,958 a little bit like this one here. 471 00:27:35,000 --> 00:27:38,595 But Charles Darwin always called this his great mistake. 472 00:27:38,640 --> 00:27:40,870 Because so concentrated were they, 473 00:27:40,920 --> 00:27:43,798 they were looking so hard at the little rocks all around them 474 00:27:43,840 --> 00:27:46,673 that they failed to notice the valley itself. 475 00:27:46,720 --> 00:27:53,034 That the Cwm is...a fantastic example of a glacial valley. 476 00:27:53,080 --> 00:28:01,397 That this great bowl was carved out by the movement of ice. 477 00:28:02,760 --> 00:28:07,038 This suggested that the surface of our planet had been here 478 00:28:07,080 --> 00:28:09,674 for hundreds of millions of years. 479 00:28:09,720 --> 00:28:12,917 And this was at a time when many believed that the earth itself 480 00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:15,394 was only 6,000 years old. 481 00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:18,109 Darwin thought he'd been a bit stupid. 482 00:28:18,160 --> 00:28:20,958 l suppose it's all right for Charles Darwin to call himself an idiot. 483 00:28:21,000 --> 00:28:23,912 l don't think we should join in with that because in fact... 484 00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:26,076 it was only in that period 485 00:28:26,120 --> 00:28:28,873 that people discovered the real history of these mountains anyway. 486 00:28:28,920 --> 00:28:32,629 The mountains behind me, the rocks here are 400 million years old. 487 00:28:32,680 --> 00:28:35,433 ln their time, they've been higher than the Himalayas, 488 00:28:35,480 --> 00:28:38,358 they've been covered with ice, they've been a desert, 489 00:28:38,400 --> 00:28:41,756 they've been over somewhere in Antarctica, drifting around near Fiji, 490 00:28:41,800 --> 00:28:43,677 and then finally found their way here, 491 00:28:43,720 --> 00:28:46,029 and probably to the horror of most Welshmen, 492 00:28:46,080 --> 00:28:48,150 they are actually drifting slightly... 493 00:28:48,200 --> 00:28:49,189 towards England. 494 00:28:49,240 --> 00:28:52,118 So when we talk about conserving nature, 495 00:28:52,160 --> 00:28:54,037 what nature do we mean? 496 00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:59,950 ln fact, the whole of humanity being here is just a blip, a blink of the eyelid 497 00:29:00,000 --> 00:29:04,869 and a nanosecond in the history of these mountains. 498 00:29:09,200 --> 00:29:11,316 I'm sure it's because we are such a blip 499 00:29:11,360 --> 00:29:15,035 that we think of these mountains as timeless and eternal. 500 00:29:15,080 --> 00:29:16,718 A thought, perhaps... 501 00:29:16,760 --> 00:29:18,478 to meditate on. 502 00:29:24,960 --> 00:29:28,669 On the banks of Lake Crafnant, six miles east of Cwm Idwal, 503 00:29:28,720 --> 00:29:30,438 a group of people have gathered 504 00:29:30,480 --> 00:29:35,235 precisely because the mountains, for them, are ancient symbols of power. 505 00:29:38,800 --> 00:29:43,032 They've come from all over the world to practice dru yoga. 506 00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:48,038 Jane Saraswati Clapham is their instructor. 507 00:29:48,080 --> 00:29:50,878 And she believes teaching this kind of yoga here 508 00:29:50,920 --> 00:29:53,434 has a special significance. 509 00:29:53,480 --> 00:29:57,792 ls that because yoga, as it were, came from mountainous regions originally? 510 00:29:57,840 --> 00:30:00,638 - Did it come from mountainous regions? - lt did actually. Yes, it did. 511 00:30:00,680 --> 00:30:03,148 From the Himalayas. So, yes, these are a bit like the Himalayas. 512 00:30:03,200 --> 00:30:05,430 - Right. - Mm. They feel as cold quite often. 513 00:30:05,480 --> 00:30:08,358 So what is the principle of dru yoga then? 514 00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:10,675 Dru yoga really works with breath 515 00:30:10,720 --> 00:30:12,119 and movement together 516 00:30:12,160 --> 00:30:16,472 to create a beautiful, smooth, flowing, powerful feeling of peace in the heart. 517 00:30:17,280 --> 00:30:18,952 - You're going to find out soon. - Yeah, right. 518 00:30:19,000 --> 00:30:20,638 - You should do. l hope you do. - Good. 519 00:30:20,680 --> 00:30:22,432 - Let's do this one, we can do this one. - Come on. 520 00:30:22,480 --> 00:30:24,436 Yeah, yeah. This is like being at school 521 00:30:24,480 --> 00:30:28,029 where l need to stand behind somebody who does it really well, 522 00:30:28,080 --> 00:30:31,038 - so l can just...copy. 523 00:30:31,080 --> 00:30:32,354 OK, guys! 524 00:30:32,400 --> 00:30:34,834 OK, so first of all, just make sure that you're standing, 525 00:30:34,880 --> 00:30:37,599 the feet firmly on the earth... 526 00:30:37,640 --> 00:30:40,359 feeling the power coming up through the legs, 527 00:30:40,400 --> 00:30:42,595 the power of the mountains coming into your hearts, 528 00:30:42,640 --> 00:30:46,997 feeling that inner strength coming from Snowdonia, all around you. 529 00:30:48,960 --> 00:30:53,715 Right hand down to right thigh extending up. 530 00:30:53,760 --> 00:30:55,159 That's beautiful. 531 00:30:55,200 --> 00:30:58,192 Lowering left hand down... into the triangle... 532 00:31:00,120 --> 00:31:02,873 ..and sweeping back with the right hand. 533 00:31:02,920 --> 00:31:04,956 You're creating a mountain shape! 534 00:31:05,000 --> 00:31:08,754 You look like the gorgeous range of Snowdonia mountains. 535 00:31:08,800 --> 00:31:10,870 Raising up into the warrior. 536 00:31:14,240 --> 00:31:16,595 That's beautiful. 537 00:31:16,640 --> 00:31:21,191 That's lovely, and then gently turning the body towards the front... 538 00:31:21,240 --> 00:31:23,196 extending the hands down. 539 00:31:23,840 --> 00:31:25,398 Very good, brilliant. 540 00:31:25,440 --> 00:31:28,193 Do you feel full of... the power of the mountains? 541 00:31:28,240 --> 00:31:30,390 - Yes. - Cool. 542 00:31:31,080 --> 00:31:32,399 OK. 543 00:31:32,440 --> 00:31:35,159 Well, there we are, there's nothing quite like yoga 544 00:31:35,200 --> 00:31:39,478 to put you in tune with your surroundings and leave you feeling positively elastic. 545 00:31:43,080 --> 00:31:45,355 Well, maybe I need a few more sessions. 546 00:31:46,600 --> 00:31:48,272 I left Jane's pupils 547 00:31:48,320 --> 00:31:51,517 contemplating their spiritual connection to the landscape 548 00:31:51,560 --> 00:31:55,633 and went on to meet someone who gets physical with it instead. 549 00:31:56,680 --> 00:32:00,468 Just how close to the rock do you need to be to really feel it? 550 00:32:03,280 --> 00:32:06,511 Dinorwig quarry near Llanberis just north of Snowdon 551 00:32:06,560 --> 00:32:08,915 is the haunt of Johnny Dawes, 552 00:32:08,960 --> 00:32:13,112 regarded as one of the finest rock climbers in this country. 553 00:32:13,160 --> 00:32:15,799 His nickname is the stone monkey. 554 00:32:15,840 --> 00:32:17,990 This disused slate quarry 555 00:32:18,040 --> 00:32:21,953 was where he first honed his rather inhuman skills. 556 00:32:22,000 --> 00:32:25,231 Do you think that in order to do this, right, 557 00:32:25,280 --> 00:32:29,637 is it because you're...a nutter, 558 00:32:29,680 --> 00:32:33,719 or because you're... you get... you want to push yourself, 559 00:32:33,760 --> 00:32:36,320 until you feel danger and you might die? 560 00:32:36,360 --> 00:32:39,432 - Or is it showing off to everybody else? - l think it was... 561 00:32:39,480 --> 00:32:43,393 l like showing off, yeah, but... 562 00:32:43,440 --> 00:32:47,069 if you climb a lot on rock, you can have these moments 563 00:32:47,120 --> 00:32:49,839 where you feel very connected to where you are. 564 00:32:49,880 --> 00:32:51,438 These slate mines, are they good? 565 00:32:51,480 --> 00:32:54,199 Do you spend your time looking for things and think, 566 00:32:54,240 --> 00:32:56,151 - ''Nobody's ever climbed that before'' - Very much so. 567 00:32:56,200 --> 00:32:58,350 - Do you? - Yeah, even just... 568 00:32:58,400 --> 00:33:01,472 even quite obscure bits of rock, after a while you can look at it 569 00:33:01,520 --> 00:33:03,875 - and see which way the hold faces. - Yes. 570 00:33:03,920 --> 00:33:06,354 And that kind of positions your arm in your imagination 571 00:33:06,400 --> 00:33:08,072 of how to hang on that hold. 572 00:33:08,120 --> 00:33:10,873 And then you look for something that goes nicely with that. 573 00:33:10,920 --> 00:33:13,718 Cos for each handhold there's a kind of friendly foot hold. 574 00:33:13,760 --> 00:33:15,876 So you look for those couples. 575 00:33:15,920 --> 00:33:17,558 So it's a bit like when l was a kid... 576 00:33:17,600 --> 00:33:19,238 Johnny wanted to show me what he meant, 577 00:33:19,280 --> 00:33:22,272 by demonstrating some simple, friendly holds 578 00:33:22,320 --> 00:33:24,038 on a 7 0-foot slate cliff. 579 00:33:24,080 --> 00:33:25,957 You've climbed this rock before? 580 00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:28,594 Yeah, this is eh... you pioneer new climbs 581 00:33:28,640 --> 00:33:31,200 and the quarries are great because there's all this unclimbed rock. 582 00:33:31,240 --> 00:33:35,472 But l'm just amused by looking at this because you can sort of just go like this, 583 00:33:35,520 --> 00:33:38,796 and think, well there's absolutely nothing to hold on to at all, although... 584 00:33:38,840 --> 00:33:40,478 You need to stand up on one position. 585 00:33:40,520 --> 00:33:43,637 Yeah, yeah, but tell me something here, Johnny, before l get started. 586 00:33:43,680 --> 00:33:45,511 - Yeah. - Even if l were able, 587 00:33:45,560 --> 00:33:47,437 you know, like the human fly that you are, 588 00:33:47,480 --> 00:33:50,631 to get myself up a little bit, l would have a reasonable 589 00:33:50,680 --> 00:33:54,036 amount of confidence about lifting myself off the ground, 590 00:33:54,080 --> 00:33:56,230 but not for very long because... 591 00:33:56,280 --> 00:33:57,998 So where do l go with the other foot? 592 00:33:58,040 --> 00:33:59,871 Well, l was just looking at the same thing. 593 00:33:59,920 --> 00:34:01,114 lt's, l think... 594 00:34:01,160 --> 00:34:04,391 - l can't see anything, - The next move is a little trickier, 595 00:34:04,440 --> 00:34:06,590 but probably, put your foot all the way across there. 596 00:34:06,640 --> 00:34:08,915 - No, no. - So try... 597 00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:10,791 - What do l do, l get... - There's a hold there, 598 00:34:10,840 --> 00:34:12,353 - there's a side pull here. 599 00:34:12,400 --> 00:34:14,960 You see l don't think, physically, l'll be able to get... 600 00:34:16,840 --> 00:34:20,071 - Now you stand up. - l can't. l can't do anything at all. 601 00:34:21,080 --> 00:34:22,798 No. 602 00:34:22,840 --> 00:34:25,559 It was just crazy. I couldn't even get started. 603 00:34:27,640 --> 00:34:30,837 Yeah, so it gives way at the top you've just got to make that... 604 00:34:30,880 --> 00:34:33,269 - So use that amount of force. - Right. 605 00:34:33,320 --> 00:34:36,153 But you've got to imagine what position the shape works. 606 00:34:36,200 --> 00:34:37,838 - l'm gonna watch you do it, go on. - OK. 607 00:34:37,880 --> 00:34:39,029 - So hand hold there. - Yes. 608 00:34:39,080 --> 00:34:41,036 - And that pulls in that direction. - Right. 609 00:34:41,080 --> 00:34:44,231 So you pull it exactly that direction, that foot hold pushes in that direction. 610 00:34:44,280 --> 00:34:47,670 You put those two together by making a shape with your body. 611 00:34:47,720 --> 00:34:49,199 That is climbing. 612 00:34:49,240 --> 00:34:53,677 So before l move, l think what shape am l gonna be in the best position. 613 00:34:53,720 --> 00:34:57,076 So l imagine where would my leg want to go, it wants to go over there. 614 00:34:58,920 --> 00:35:00,672 See what l mean? 615 00:35:01,600 --> 00:35:04,273 lt's miraculous. 616 00:35:04,320 --> 00:35:05,833 Looking at the smooth slate wall, 617 00:35:05,880 --> 00:35:09,953 I'd begun to believe that it was impossible for anyone to climb it, 618 00:35:10,000 --> 00:35:13,117 but I sensed Johnny was going to prove me wrong. 619 00:35:17,080 --> 00:35:19,992 You're not always pulling, sometimes you're pressing down. 620 00:35:20,040 --> 00:35:23,396 lf l lean on that and rotate l don't use any muscle. 621 00:35:26,880 --> 00:35:29,553 So if l'm gonna go left, 622 00:35:29,600 --> 00:35:32,398 l go right first, so l go over here and then up and over. 623 00:35:45,440 --> 00:35:47,874 So if l'm coming to a trickier bit like this, 624 00:35:48,480 --> 00:35:51,199 l do the move in my head, so l know what to do. 625 00:35:56,320 --> 00:35:58,914 There weren't any holds at all, you just walked up it then. 626 00:35:58,960 --> 00:36:01,952 There's a bit there where there isn't any foot holds, yeah. 627 00:36:02,000 --> 00:36:03,797 - Quite a difficult place to talk. - Sorry. 628 00:36:03,840 --> 00:36:07,355 - Don't let me interrupt you. - lt's a good challenge. 629 00:36:07,400 --> 00:36:09,994 This bit's another one of these moves. 630 00:36:15,560 --> 00:36:18,154 What's amazing is you make it look so effortless, 631 00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:20,077 as if you just sort of, l don't know, 632 00:36:20,120 --> 00:36:24,716 as if it was like crawling across a table, that just happens to be vertical. 633 00:36:24,760 --> 00:36:26,637 This next bit is the tricky bit. 634 00:36:26,680 --> 00:36:30,150 This bit l don't really like very much, it's a bit painful. 635 00:36:53,720 --> 00:36:58,191 He makes it look so easy, it's extraordinary to get close... 636 00:36:58,240 --> 00:37:03,075 to the slate, which is a wonderful, comforting sort of smooth thing, 637 00:37:03,120 --> 00:37:05,509 and realise how glassy it is. 638 00:37:05,560 --> 00:37:12,113 You don't realise the sheer physical energy required 639 00:37:12,160 --> 00:37:18,554 to put all your weight on your fingertips like that, 640 00:37:18,600 --> 00:37:22,229 and that is quite a big hold. 641 00:37:24,680 --> 00:37:26,830 Yeah. 642 00:37:26,880 --> 00:37:29,394 Well, it's beyond me. 643 00:37:31,080 --> 00:37:33,355 Stone monkey? 644 00:37:33,400 --> 00:37:37,075 Quite honestly, I defy a monkey to do what Johnny does. 645 00:37:37,120 --> 00:37:41,511 He's about as physically close to a rock as a human being can get. 646 00:37:41,560 --> 00:37:43,198 But perhaps this part of the mountain 647 00:37:43,240 --> 00:37:48,030 needs hugging after the assault that we launched on it in the past. 648 00:37:48,880 --> 00:37:52,873 The old slate quarry where Johnny climbs is just one of dozens 649 00:37:52,920 --> 00:37:57,436 that were clawed out of the mountainsides of North Wales. 650 00:37:58,680 --> 00:38:02,309 Slate is the forgotten Welsh industry, 651 00:38:02,360 --> 00:38:05,352 which dominated Snowdonia for hundreds of years. 652 00:38:05,400 --> 00:38:07,755 At its peak in the 1 880s, 653 00:38:07,800 --> 00:38:15,070 it employed 1 7,000 men and produced 500,000 tons of finished slate a year. 654 00:38:15,120 --> 00:38:19,033 And to get that, they produced even more waste. 655 00:38:19,800 --> 00:38:22,712 I used to believe that all the JCBs in the world 656 00:38:22,760 --> 00:38:25,399 could never threaten a mountain. 657 00:38:26,040 --> 00:38:29,157 But, in fact, when you come here you realise that's not quite true. 658 00:38:29,200 --> 00:38:32,954 You get a determined gang of men looking for nice bits of slate, 659 00:38:33,000 --> 00:38:37,039 and after 50 years they've managed to chomp their way 660 00:38:37,080 --> 00:38:39,275 through an entire mountainside. 661 00:38:39,320 --> 00:38:42,437 Dig it all out, hurl bits around, 662 00:38:42,480 --> 00:38:47,349 throw it around, build mammoth great wheelhouses and sleds 663 00:38:49,160 --> 00:38:50,036 And it's... 664 00:38:50,080 --> 00:38:54,312 it's a strange business because they'd take pieces of slate 665 00:38:54,360 --> 00:38:57,511 and go ''Er... no, l can't make a tile out of that no, no. 666 00:38:57,560 --> 00:39:00,552 ''This bit? No, no, that's no good, no, no. 667 00:39:00,600 --> 00:39:02,352 ''No, l can't use that'' 668 00:39:02,400 --> 00:39:07,235 You see, so gradually they've thrown 90% of what they dug out away, 669 00:39:07,280 --> 00:39:10,716 and they, they created these huge heaps of waste. 670 00:39:11,840 --> 00:39:15,913 And then it all finished and these places are just abandoned. 671 00:39:18,840 --> 00:39:23,118 What has been left behind has a compelling, awkward beauty. 672 00:39:23,160 --> 00:39:27,995 And some surprising things are going on in the old buildings the quarrymen deserted. 673 00:39:28,040 --> 00:39:31,999 In a disused tool shed in a slate mine in southern Snowdonia, 674 00:39:32,040 --> 00:39:37,319 two entrepreneurs have built a business from an unusual recycling concept. 675 00:39:40,440 --> 00:39:42,351 - Griff. - Lawrence, hello, nice to see you. 676 00:39:42,400 --> 00:39:44,755 - Les. - Hello, Les, hi. 677 00:39:45,320 --> 00:39:49,438 l've come here obviously to find out what it is that you do here. 678 00:39:49,480 --> 00:39:50,879 Take me through it, if you can. 679 00:39:50,920 --> 00:39:54,674 Just let's start with the absolute first principal here. 680 00:39:54,720 --> 00:39:57,792 As far as l understand, you're basically involved in a recycling process. 681 00:39:57,840 --> 00:40:01,276 We go further than that. We like to think it's the ultimate in recycling. 682 00:40:01,320 --> 00:40:04,437 - ls it? - We bring sheep poo in the front... 683 00:40:04,480 --> 00:40:06,994 and at the end of our process, goes two products. 684 00:40:07,040 --> 00:40:09,395 We sell fertiliser and we make paper. 685 00:40:11,400 --> 00:40:14,551 Lawrence Toms and Les Paylor have found a way of using 686 00:40:14,600 --> 00:40:20,152 undigested fibres from sheep droppings to make paper and card. 687 00:40:20,920 --> 00:40:23,912 The start of the process is a little challenging, 688 00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:26,952 and apparently requires a disguise. 689 00:40:27,000 --> 00:40:30,515 This is just so the sheep don't get startled out in the fields. 690 00:40:30,560 --> 00:40:32,312 - ls that one for me? - There's yours. 691 00:40:32,360 --> 00:40:34,271 - One size fits all? - Yes, indeed. 692 00:40:34,320 --> 00:40:36,311 Does the farmer wear a white... ? 693 00:40:36,360 --> 00:40:38,476 No, but the sheep are more used to him. 694 00:40:38,520 --> 00:40:39,714 l see. 695 00:40:39,760 --> 00:40:42,638 lt's entirely possible he's having a laugh at our expense, 696 00:40:42,680 --> 00:40:45,877 but he's so kind in letting us use his land that we play along 697 00:40:45,920 --> 00:40:48,115 and, of course, the suits can be recycled into paper 698 00:40:48,160 --> 00:40:49,559 at the end of the day as well. 699 00:40:49,600 --> 00:40:53,070 OK. Now do l look sufficiently like a sheep? 700 00:40:53,120 --> 00:40:55,839 A little. 701 00:40:55,880 --> 00:40:57,916 Quite effective. 702 00:40:57,960 --> 00:41:01,794 I think the farmer is talking poo here, this is ridiculous. 703 00:41:01,840 --> 00:41:05,230 All right, l can hardly see out of my various hoods now. 704 00:41:05,280 --> 00:41:07,794 - You'll be all right. - No, l'm a hoodie. 705 00:41:09,120 --> 00:41:12,351 After all, the flock might still be justifiably nervous of a giant sheep, 706 00:41:12,400 --> 00:41:16,279 standing on its hind legs carrying a bucket about the place. 707 00:41:16,320 --> 00:41:19,357 We're looking out for just any old poo, or... 708 00:41:19,400 --> 00:41:22,756 The right, no, it's got to be the right nuggets, it's gotta be fresh. 709 00:41:22,800 --> 00:41:24,597 - Perfect. - l see. 710 00:41:24,640 --> 00:41:28,269 - Absolutely perfect. - Oh, l see. Here you are. 711 00:41:28,320 --> 00:41:30,880 And this is the stuff l think. 712 00:41:30,920 --> 00:41:33,354 Oh, my God. 713 00:41:33,400 --> 00:41:35,277 There's an element of this l don't understand, 714 00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,993 which l'm going to put to you now, which is that surely, 715 00:41:38,040 --> 00:41:41,999 we're going to great lengths not to scare the sheep, 716 00:41:42,040 --> 00:41:43,519 and if we scare them a bit they might 717 00:41:43,560 --> 00:41:45,516 just sort of give us what we need rather more quickly? 718 00:41:45,560 --> 00:41:48,711 But l don't think the farmer would be too pleased about that. 719 00:41:51,000 --> 00:41:52,479 This is fine stuff. 720 00:41:52,520 --> 00:41:55,034 Very fresh, still steaming. 721 00:41:55,080 --> 00:41:57,640 You seem to be getting the hang of this. 722 00:41:57,680 --> 00:42:00,513 l've got an edition of War and Peace already. 723 00:42:03,200 --> 00:42:05,760 There they go. 724 00:42:05,800 --> 00:42:10,316 But we're not succeeding very much in not scaring them, are we? 725 00:42:10,360 --> 00:42:14,114 They're going home. They've had enough of fertilizing this field. 726 00:42:16,360 --> 00:42:21,593 After an hour terrifying the livestock, and handpicking the finest poo, 727 00:42:21,640 --> 00:42:24,234 we had enough to keep production going for at least two days. 728 00:42:24,280 --> 00:42:26,077 - All right. - You did well. 729 00:42:26,120 --> 00:42:27,348 Oh, thank you. 730 00:42:27,400 --> 00:42:28,799 - Excellent. - l gave him some. 731 00:42:28,840 --> 00:42:31,434 OK, well, l'll boil that up, and we'll get going then. 732 00:42:31,480 --> 00:42:34,597 The droppings are put in a bag and sterilised, I'm pleased to say. 733 00:42:34,640 --> 00:42:37,438 Then into the wash. Nothing is wasted. 734 00:42:37,480 --> 00:42:42,031 The waste water that comes out the other end is a powerful, concentrated fertiliser. 735 00:42:42,080 --> 00:42:45,516 Once the result has been dried, it's ready to be made into paper. 736 00:42:45,560 --> 00:42:48,870 We're often asked what does it smell like, and... 737 00:42:48,920 --> 00:42:52,833 the answer is, of course, it smells almost exactly like freshly mown hay 738 00:42:52,880 --> 00:42:55,269 because that's almost exactly what it is. 739 00:42:55,800 --> 00:42:57,791 And that's what it smells like. 740 00:42:57,840 --> 00:43:00,638 All right, let me check. 741 00:43:00,680 --> 00:43:04,036 Yes, it does. lt smells very grassy. 742 00:43:04,080 --> 00:43:06,640 Yes, grassy like poo, in fact. 743 00:43:06,680 --> 00:43:09,797 It's made into a pulp using a secret recipe - and voil�. 744 00:43:09,840 --> 00:43:12,752 Lawrence and Les show me how to make a sheet of paper. 745 00:43:12,800 --> 00:43:15,997 All right, so here l go. l put this down here... 746 00:43:17,160 --> 00:43:18,513 Put that down here. 747 00:43:18,560 --> 00:43:20,278 Now l take my rack... 748 00:43:20,320 --> 00:43:23,198 - and l put it into the water. - That's it. 749 00:43:23,240 --> 00:43:24,639 - Like that. - Lovely. 750 00:43:24,680 --> 00:43:28,150 OK, and then l just slop this in? All around? 751 00:43:28,200 --> 00:43:32,159 You can do, but you're going to skooch it with your hands afterwards. 752 00:43:33,400 --> 00:43:37,632 Then using your fingers, in a kind of spider effect, skooch it around. 753 00:43:37,680 --> 00:43:39,636 Try and get it to spread as evenly as you can. 754 00:43:39,680 --> 00:43:42,911 Yes. Nicely evenly distributed. 755 00:43:42,960 --> 00:43:45,190 - That's it. - OK. 756 00:43:45,240 --> 00:43:46,389 Slowly lift it. 757 00:43:46,440 --> 00:43:49,477 - Tip him to one side slowly. - Tip it to one side? 758 00:43:49,520 --> 00:43:52,034 - Lay it on to the top. - Lay it on to the top like that? 759 00:43:52,080 --> 00:43:53,752 - Yes? - Yes. 760 00:43:53,800 --> 00:43:56,678 - That's not bad. - And we'll send that on to you when it's dry. 761 00:43:56,720 --> 00:43:58,711 ls that the only sheet of paper you've ever made? 762 00:43:58,760 --> 00:44:00,352 Once it has been dried and pressed, 763 00:44:00,400 --> 00:44:04,837 my hand-collected organic sheep droppings become stationery. 764 00:44:04,880 --> 00:44:07,838 The handmade paper is sold all over the world. 765 00:44:07,880 --> 00:44:11,077 It may be a novelty item in a designer gift shop, 766 00:44:11,120 --> 00:44:15,272 but the real novelty of this little organic sustainable industry, 767 00:44:15,320 --> 00:44:18,710 which has recently won an award, is the way that Les and Lawrence 768 00:44:18,760 --> 00:44:21,035 are working within the landscape, 769 00:44:21,080 --> 00:44:25,949 and finding a new way to enable man to be more than just a visitor to these mountains. 770 00:44:26,000 --> 00:44:29,879 But how far is it possible for people to continue to work here, 771 00:44:29,920 --> 00:44:33,833 to live here, and to leave few footprints? 772 00:44:33,880 --> 00:44:36,758 South of Snowdonia are the Preseli mountains, 773 00:44:36,800 --> 00:44:39,473 a small group of rolling hills on the coast. 774 00:44:39,520 --> 00:44:43,115 Somewhere here, a man called Tony Wrench has built himself a house 775 00:44:43,160 --> 00:44:45,594 made from the mountains themselves. 776 00:44:45,640 --> 00:44:46,834 Or nearly. 777 00:44:46,880 --> 00:44:50,759 Is this a future for human life in the wilderness? 778 00:44:50,800 --> 00:44:54,031 l think this is probably it. 779 00:45:05,240 --> 00:45:07,037 - Tony. - How are you doing? 780 00:45:07,080 --> 00:45:09,719 Nice to see you. l'm lucky l found the place, l think. 781 00:45:09,760 --> 00:45:13,275 You're very well disguised, aren't you? l mean well hidden in a way. 782 00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:17,836 Yeah it's got a lot of nature on it as well as around it. 783 00:45:17,880 --> 00:45:19,438 so, yeah, just it looks fairly... 784 00:45:19,480 --> 00:45:22,199 l have to tell you that's the most incredible roof l've ever seen. 785 00:45:22,240 --> 00:45:24,037 lt's got a grapevine in it as well. 786 00:45:24,080 --> 00:45:26,878 Yeah, yeah, so l've got a kind of fruity jungle. 787 00:45:26,920 --> 00:45:29,673 lt's great. l've looked at a lot of buildings in my time, 788 00:45:29,720 --> 00:45:32,234 but l've never met anybody who can actually eat their own roof. 789 00:45:32,280 --> 00:45:33,952 - No. - Which is fantastic! 790 00:45:35,560 --> 00:45:41,795 Tony and his wife Jane built their roundhouse to a Celtic design. 791 00:45:41,840 --> 00:45:44,115 ls that Sleeping Thunder? 792 00:45:44,160 --> 00:45:46,515 Absolutely great! 793 00:45:48,640 --> 00:45:50,835 The living space is in the middle. 794 00:45:50,880 --> 00:45:54,953 The bedroom, bathroom and kitchen are on the outside. 795 00:45:55,000 --> 00:45:57,036 All the materials, from the wooden beams, 796 00:45:57,080 --> 00:45:59,275 to the recycled bottles strengthening the walls, 797 00:45:59,320 --> 00:46:01,390 Tony found just lying around. 798 00:46:01,440 --> 00:46:04,034 Solar power provides the electricity. 799 00:46:04,080 --> 00:46:08,073 - And, this...is this warm? - Yeah. 800 00:46:08,120 --> 00:46:10,634 - Does the insulation all work for you? - Certainly! Yeah. 801 00:46:10,680 --> 00:46:13,399 You've got 150 straw bales in the roof, 802 00:46:13,440 --> 00:46:15,635 so that's quite a lot of insulation, you know. 803 00:46:15,680 --> 00:46:16,749 Yeah. 804 00:46:16,800 --> 00:46:18,995 And the walls are that thick of wood, 805 00:46:19,040 --> 00:46:22,749 so and these quite thick wool carpet things, rugs on the floor, 806 00:46:22,800 --> 00:46:24,836 so, yeah, it's fine. 807 00:46:24,880 --> 00:46:26,950 lt's good. Pretty draught proof. 808 00:46:27,000 --> 00:46:28,558 Yeah, happy with it. 809 00:46:28,600 --> 00:46:31,273 But anyway, you made the table yourself, 810 00:46:31,320 --> 00:46:32,673 you made the rugs yourself. 811 00:46:32,720 --> 00:46:34,358 - You made the bowls yourself? - Yeah. 812 00:46:34,400 --> 00:46:39,599 Yeah, and what...most of the things that grow outside presumably, 813 00:46:39,640 --> 00:46:41,995 you can eat or use in some way? 814 00:46:42,040 --> 00:46:44,918 We...we do use a lot. 815 00:46:44,960 --> 00:46:47,349 Yeah, we've got a reasonable sort of vegetable garden. 816 00:46:47,400 --> 00:46:51,188 We've got a very nice crop of fruit at the moment. 817 00:46:51,240 --> 00:46:55,279 You've built what is essentially a sustainable house. 818 00:46:55,320 --> 00:46:56,639 That's the idea. 819 00:46:56,680 --> 00:46:59,399 To see if it's possible. Who knows if its possible 820 00:46:59,440 --> 00:47:02,591 to actually live sustainably in our culture or not. 821 00:47:02,640 --> 00:47:05,916 l don't even know that, so it's a sort of experiment really, 822 00:47:05,960 --> 00:47:08,190 the whole thing is an experiment. 823 00:47:08,240 --> 00:47:10,674 At first, it was an illegal experiment. 824 00:47:10,720 --> 00:47:13,598 Tony didn't have any planning permission at all. 825 00:47:13,640 --> 00:47:15,596 The council wanted to pull it down. 826 00:47:15,640 --> 00:47:17,949 When they eventually discovered it. 827 00:47:18,000 --> 00:47:20,753 A spotter plane on the lookout for illegally parked caravans, 828 00:47:20,800 --> 00:47:25,112 noticed it because of the sunlight reflecting off the solar panel. 829 00:47:25,160 --> 00:47:29,039 But Tony demonstrated what a tiny impact they made on the landscape. 830 00:47:29,080 --> 00:47:32,152 Now the council's policy has changed. 831 00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:35,272 So it's feasible that you could have another, 832 00:47:35,320 --> 00:47:37,959 another dwelling over there, and another one over there. 833 00:47:38,000 --> 00:47:39,911 And you could use bits of farmland, 834 00:47:39,960 --> 00:47:42,110 or bits of mountain scene, 835 00:47:42,160 --> 00:47:46,790 bits of hidden mountains valleys to build communities here. 836 00:47:46,840 --> 00:47:48,512 l think so, l think so, l'd love to see it. 837 00:47:50,400 --> 00:47:54,313 For better or worse man has left his mark on the Welsh mountains. 838 00:47:54,360 --> 00:47:57,716 We live and work among them, and we use them as our playground. 839 00:47:57,760 --> 00:48:02,151 Perhaps few of our wild places are truly wild any more. 840 00:48:02,200 --> 00:48:05,476 Even the highest mountain in the world, Mount Everest, 841 00:48:05,520 --> 00:48:08,353 has our footprints all over it. 842 00:48:08,400 --> 00:48:11,437 Over two thousand have now tramped up that remote, 843 00:48:11,480 --> 00:48:13,277 once inaccessible summit. 844 00:48:13,320 --> 00:48:17,199 And North Wales, played a part in that story. 845 00:48:17,240 --> 00:48:21,233 I'm back in Snowdonia, at the Pen-Y-Gwryd Hotel. 846 00:48:21,280 --> 00:48:25,114 When the summit of Everest was finally reached in 1 953, 847 00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,958 this small guesthouse, nestling in the shadow of Snowdon 848 00:48:28,000 --> 00:48:30,468 was amongst the first places, to be told the news. 849 00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:47,474 - Good evening. - Oh, hello? 850 00:48:47,520 --> 00:48:48,873 - Mr. Rhys Jones? - Yes. 851 00:48:48,920 --> 00:48:51,150 - How nice to see you. - Thank you. 852 00:48:51,200 --> 00:48:53,350 As it happens the world's highest mountain 853 00:48:53,400 --> 00:48:56,915 was named after a Welshman, Sir George Everest. 854 00:48:56,960 --> 00:48:59,235 He made maps of India in the mid 1 9th century, 855 00:48:59,280 --> 00:49:02,989 but never actually set eyes on the mountain that bears his name. 856 00:49:03,600 --> 00:49:08,071 But that isn't why the hotel is stuffed full of Everest memorabilia. 857 00:49:08,120 --> 00:49:12,477 It's here because this was a training base for the expedition team 858 00:49:12,520 --> 00:49:15,956 that climbed Everest in 1 953. 859 00:49:16,000 --> 00:49:18,309 They prepared for their famous attempt 860 00:49:18,360 --> 00:49:22,831 on a slightly more modest peak called Tryfan, which is further down the valley. 861 00:49:24,240 --> 00:49:26,913 This is the...locked book. 862 00:49:26,960 --> 00:49:31,272 lt says very firmly, ''Not the visitors' book'' on here 863 00:49:31,320 --> 00:49:34,198 and it's a sort of record of all the major events here... 864 00:49:36,640 --> 00:49:38,551 at Pen-Y-Gwryd. 865 00:49:39,920 --> 00:49:44,550 And here's a record of the...the night 866 00:49:44,600 --> 00:49:48,559 that Everest was conquered, 867 00:49:49,280 --> 00:49:53,558 and they've recorded the event here, 868 00:49:54,960 --> 00:49:58,953 and stuck pictures of Hillary and Tenzing. 869 00:49:59,000 --> 00:50:02,117 And here's, look, here's the whole expedition. 870 00:50:02,160 --> 00:50:07,029 John Hunt the leader, Edmund Hillary, climbed, Tenzing. 871 00:50:07,080 --> 00:50:11,312 Tomorrow, I'm intending to find out what it was like to climb then. 872 00:50:11,360 --> 00:50:16,229 To be one of the first people to walk on such a significant part of the planet. 873 00:50:18,320 --> 00:50:22,029 Tryfan is one of the most striking mountains in Snowdonia. 874 00:50:22,080 --> 00:50:28,189 It's 3,002 feet high. A great crumbling heap of volcanic rock, 875 00:50:28,240 --> 00:50:31,755 it's one of ten peaks in a range to the north of Snowdon, 876 00:50:31,800 --> 00:50:34,439 which was carved out by glaciers. 877 00:50:34,480 --> 00:50:37,631 This was where the Everest expedition team practised. 878 00:50:37,680 --> 00:50:41,673 And I'm gonna climb it with one of the team members, mountaineer, 879 00:50:41,720 --> 00:50:43,836 George Band. 880 00:50:43,880 --> 00:50:47,077 Aged 24, George was the youngest member of the team, 881 00:50:47,120 --> 00:50:49,680 which conquered Everest in 1 953. 882 00:50:49,720 --> 00:50:53,110 Two years later he was the first to climb the world's third highest mountain, 883 00:50:53,160 --> 00:50:55,390 Kanchenjunga, in Tibet. 884 00:50:56,360 --> 00:51:00,672 George is now 77. And has been climbing for most of those years. 885 00:51:00,720 --> 00:51:05,919 The very first mountain he climbed on his own was this one, Tryfan. 886 00:51:05,960 --> 00:51:08,235 When did you think, well, l can do this, 887 00:51:08,280 --> 00:51:10,840 and l'd like to sort of become a leader in this... 888 00:51:10,880 --> 00:51:13,599 in this game, as it were? 889 00:51:13,640 --> 00:51:17,428 lt's like almost any sport. lf you play tennis and you do rather well, 890 00:51:17,480 --> 00:51:21,917 you join a club, you play for the county, and then you think, 891 00:51:21,960 --> 00:51:24,952 Christ, do you think l could qualify for Wimbledon, you know. 892 00:51:25,000 --> 00:51:26,672 And it's the same sort of thing. 893 00:51:26,720 --> 00:51:30,838 It hadn't escaped my attention that Tryfan is a little bit smaller than Everest. 894 00:51:30,880 --> 00:51:34,475 More than 26,000 feet smaller, in fact. 895 00:51:34,520 --> 00:51:38,752 But the Everest team didn't come here, for altitude training. 896 00:51:38,800 --> 00:51:41,712 They came to practise climbing with oxygen masks, 897 00:51:41,760 --> 00:51:43,716 which were going to be crucial to their success 898 00:51:43,760 --> 00:51:47,230 and which they'd never worn before. 899 00:51:47,280 --> 00:51:49,077 And of course also with the mask, 900 00:51:49,120 --> 00:51:52,192 you couldn't really see where you wanted to put your feet so easily, 901 00:51:52,240 --> 00:51:55,277 and this was something just to get used to, you know. 902 00:51:55,320 --> 00:51:58,710 And then we did some climbs as well because we never thought of it 903 00:51:58,760 --> 00:52:00,671 as actually training for Everest because... 904 00:52:00,720 --> 00:52:03,678 - Because you were all experienced climbers. - All experienced climbers. 905 00:52:03,720 --> 00:52:05,278 You weren't gonna learn how to climb. 906 00:52:05,320 --> 00:52:08,312 No, and every holiday we ever had we went to the mountains. 907 00:52:08,360 --> 00:52:10,271 So it was just natural, you know. 908 00:52:10,320 --> 00:52:14,472 This was an exercise really in getting together as a team. 909 00:52:14,520 --> 00:52:17,876 lt was...nowadays they all talk about... 910 00:52:17,920 --> 00:52:19,353 - What are the phrases? - Bonding? 911 00:52:19,400 --> 00:52:21,391 Bonding, and, yeah, that was...just getting... 912 00:52:21,440 --> 00:52:26,036 Cos half the chaps l didn't know, you see. l knew them by reputation. 913 00:52:27,240 --> 00:52:29,196 Preparation was everything. 914 00:52:29,240 --> 00:52:31,276 George's team knew that the Swiss and the French 915 00:52:31,320 --> 00:52:34,039 were planning expeditions to Everest as well. 916 00:52:34,080 --> 00:52:37,231 The best-prepared team stood the best chance. 917 00:52:37,280 --> 00:52:39,794 And the Queen's Coronation was coming up. 918 00:52:39,840 --> 00:52:43,594 This led a certain urgency to a very British ambition. 919 00:52:43,640 --> 00:52:48,270 So were you prepared when you did it for the sort of explosion of patriotic fervour? 920 00:52:48,320 --> 00:52:49,514 Yeah, that was funny. 921 00:52:49,560 --> 00:52:54,509 When we were unpacking all the gear in the Ambassador's garden Kathmandu, 922 00:52:54,560 --> 00:52:58,155 and l think he was saying, ''And where's the flag that you're gonna wave on top?'' 923 00:52:58,200 --> 00:53:01,078 And we said, ''A flag?'' and he said, ''A Union Jack.'' 924 00:53:01,120 --> 00:53:04,908 ''Er, well, we don't have one. You know, we never thought of bringing one'' 925 00:53:04,960 --> 00:53:07,235 And he said ''l'll let you have the one off my Rolls-Royce.'' 926 00:53:07,280 --> 00:53:11,398 And he gave that to John Hunt, and it was indeed the one 927 00:53:11,440 --> 00:53:15,353 which Tenzing attached to his ice axe, the flags of the United Nations, 928 00:53:15,400 --> 00:53:19,791 flag of lndia, flag of Nepal and the Union Jack that he waved on top. 929 00:53:19,840 --> 00:53:23,071 Only the best as well, a Rolls-Royce flag l'm pleased to see. 930 00:53:23,120 --> 00:53:24,519 Of course, of course, yes. 931 00:53:26,760 --> 00:53:31,356 We had a bit further to go, before reaching our summit. 932 00:53:31,400 --> 00:53:32,594 No knees! 933 00:53:32,640 --> 00:53:36,838 There's something about Tryfan's rocks that demands you clamber all over them. 934 00:53:36,880 --> 00:53:39,348 This is known as the Cannon. 935 00:53:44,120 --> 00:53:46,031 Fantastic! 936 00:53:46,080 --> 00:53:48,878 Perhaps because it needed some balls. 937 00:53:51,120 --> 00:53:53,315 It was getting cold, even in my modern gear. 938 00:53:53,360 --> 00:53:55,191 It made me wonder what it must have been like 939 00:53:55,240 --> 00:53:58,710 to climb in rather colder conditions, half a century ago. 940 00:53:58,760 --> 00:54:03,038 You weren't in the old hobnail boots and er... 941 00:54:03,080 --> 00:54:04,991 and tweed jackets? 942 00:54:05,040 --> 00:54:08,112 What was it, l mean how advanced was your kit? 943 00:54:08,160 --> 00:54:11,914 Well, l don't have my Everest boots with me. 944 00:54:11,960 --> 00:54:14,110 l lent them to a chap to go climbing in the Himalaya, 945 00:54:14,160 --> 00:54:16,549 and very sadly he never came back. 946 00:54:16,600 --> 00:54:23,119 But l've got here, just for interest, the anorak and trousers 947 00:54:23,160 --> 00:54:25,037 that l actually used on Everest. 948 00:54:26,760 --> 00:54:29,274 You know, outwardly it looks pretty much the same, 949 00:54:29,320 --> 00:54:33,632 but it was actually a... l've been using it for house painting! 950 00:54:33,680 --> 00:54:37,309 You've been using the Everest... this should be in a museum! 951 00:54:37,360 --> 00:54:42,229 lt has been, in and out, you know... You've got to get it back occasionally. 952 00:54:42,280 --> 00:54:45,158 But l think my pi�ce de r�sistance is... 953 00:54:45,200 --> 00:54:48,556 we all know about the string vests that people used to wear, 954 00:54:48,600 --> 00:54:52,878 but maybe you've never seen a pair of string long johns. 955 00:54:53,680 --> 00:54:56,148 - How's that now? - l'm honoured to see these. 956 00:54:56,200 --> 00:55:00,034 What happened to string vest engineering? l wore a string vest as a child. 957 00:55:00,080 --> 00:55:02,958 l remember it quite clearly. How terrific! 958 00:55:03,000 --> 00:55:07,835 l feel very privileged to be able to lay... 959 00:55:07,880 --> 00:55:10,917 string long johns that went up Everest, on me. 960 00:55:10,960 --> 00:55:13,758 lf it weren't so cold now l'd strip down and put them on. 961 00:55:18,760 --> 00:55:21,957 Nowadays when so many people climb with the latest hi-tech gear, 962 00:55:22,000 --> 00:55:26,357 it's easy to forget that George and his team were doing something for the first time. 963 00:55:26,400 --> 00:55:29,836 There were no paths, no litter, none of the human impact 964 00:55:29,880 --> 00:55:33,316 which is now part of nearly every mountain experience. 965 00:55:33,360 --> 00:55:34,839 But here on Tryfan, 966 00:55:34,880 --> 00:55:36,836 where there are no well-worn paths to the top, 967 00:55:36,880 --> 00:55:40,759 it manages to feel like a first time for me. 968 00:55:41,160 --> 00:55:42,991 How are you doing, Griff? 969 00:55:43,040 --> 00:55:44,553 - OK. - Fantastic. 970 00:55:44,600 --> 00:55:47,433 - l hope. - To the manor born. 971 00:55:47,480 --> 00:55:49,710 A little bit of a quiver in my voice there as he says, 972 00:55:49,760 --> 00:55:53,275 ''l'm perfectly all right, yes. l'm completely fine. Help!'' 973 00:55:54,520 --> 00:55:57,353 This is God's climbing frame this. 974 00:55:58,320 --> 00:55:59,833 - Yeah. - Extraordinary. 975 00:55:59,880 --> 00:56:01,632 That's good. 976 00:56:02,520 --> 00:56:04,556 Slow down, George, l'm 52. 977 00:56:06,360 --> 00:56:10,751 God, no, trying to keep up with a man, 25 years my senior. 978 00:56:13,040 --> 00:56:15,998 lsn't there a more complicated route than this we could take? 979 00:56:19,960 --> 00:56:23,555 It took three hours to haul ourselves up the face of Tryfan. 980 00:56:23,600 --> 00:56:27,115 And worth it. We finally reached our goal. 981 00:56:27,160 --> 00:56:32,996 The two natural stone obelisks called Adam and Eve that mark the summit. 982 00:56:37,920 --> 00:56:40,992 Now, people do, clamber up them, don't they? 983 00:56:41,040 --> 00:56:42,155 Do they really? 984 00:56:42,200 --> 00:56:44,350 Are you gonna do it, well done. 985 00:56:44,400 --> 00:56:46,072 And it's up! 986 00:56:46,120 --> 00:56:49,715 Not so much Adam and Eve as Tweedledum and Tweedledee, l think. 987 00:56:55,240 --> 00:56:56,992 Well done. 988 00:56:57,040 --> 00:57:01,192 Thank you. Well, that's praise indeed, if l may say so, George. 989 00:57:01,240 --> 00:57:02,559 Thank you! 990 00:57:07,800 --> 00:57:12,078 Tryfan was an immensely enjoyable mountain to climb. 991 00:57:12,120 --> 00:57:16,432 And it was all the more enjoyable for being so unspoiled. 992 00:57:16,480 --> 00:57:20,598 It's just a mass of solid rock, not even a sheep can change. 993 00:57:20,640 --> 00:57:23,393 And you'd never get a railway up it. 994 00:57:23,440 --> 00:57:27,433 These are mountains which have taken millions of years to form. 995 00:57:27,480 --> 00:57:30,916 They'll take millions of years to erode. 996 00:57:30,960 --> 00:57:34,236 This epic struggle continues in nature, 997 00:57:34,280 --> 00:57:38,273 but we've joined that battle too in the very short time that we've been here. 998 00:57:38,320 --> 00:57:42,598 The things we leave may be as tiny as a cigarette butt, 999 00:57:42,640 --> 00:57:47,589 but taken year on year, bit by bit, they're erosion too. 1000 00:57:48,440 --> 00:57:53,798 The mountains may look huge, but really they're very fragile. 1001 00:57:53,840 --> 00:57:56,195 They demand our respect. 1002 00:57:59,320 --> 00:58:00,719 Next time on Mountain, 1003 00:58:00,760 --> 00:58:04,196 I'll explore the beautiful Lake District in North West England. 1004 00:58:04,240 --> 00:58:08,950 I'll push myself to the limit on the toughest climb of my life. 1005 00:58:09,000 --> 00:58:12,993 And I'll discover how we fell in love with these inspirational mountains. 87288

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