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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,570 --> 00:00:04,570 Narrator: An epic terraced construction 2 00:00:04,672 --> 00:00:09,074 Once at the heart of a mighty asian empire. 3 00:00:09,176 --> 00:00:12,144 You see this overgrown structure kind of tumbling 4 00:00:12,279 --> 00:00:13,846 Down the mountain and then reaching away 5 00:00:13,948 --> 00:00:16,749 From it are these long pipes 6 00:00:16,851 --> 00:00:21,186 Stretching out over the hills, almost like tentacles. 7 00:00:21,288 --> 00:00:25,657 Narrator: A forbidding ukrainian palace shrouded in intrigue. 8 00:00:25,760 --> 00:00:27,092 Nusbacher: It's brooding. 9 00:00:27,194 --> 00:00:32,364 Every one of those windows looks like it ought to have a ghost 10 00:00:32,466 --> 00:00:35,234 Hiding in the draperies. 11 00:00:35,336 --> 00:00:36,869 Narrator: Mountainside ruins 12 00:00:36,971 --> 00:00:40,372 Forged in one of humanity's darkest hours. 13 00:00:40,474 --> 00:00:43,709 Auerbach: Emerging from the tunnel, you see a grey stone building. 14 00:00:43,811 --> 00:00:47,179 Grass and vegetation are starting to climb up the walls 15 00:00:47,281 --> 00:00:49,248 And nature is beginning to reclaim it. 16 00:00:51,619 --> 00:00:54,453 Narrator: And a massive facility that powered america 17 00:00:54,555 --> 00:00:57,756 To the forefront of aviation technology. 18 00:00:57,858 --> 00:00:59,892 It's an eerily deserted town. 19 00:00:59,994 --> 00:01:01,627 Selwood: The houses are all boarded up, 20 00:01:01,729 --> 00:01:03,929 There's an old theater, and the focal point 21 00:01:04,031 --> 00:01:07,366 Is these three huge hangar like structures. 22 00:01:07,468 --> 00:01:13,172 ♪ 23 00:01:13,274 --> 00:01:15,841 Narrator: Decaying relics, 24 00:01:15,943 --> 00:01:19,078 Ruins of lost worlds, 25 00:01:19,180 --> 00:01:21,780 Forged through years of toil, 26 00:01:21,916 --> 00:01:24,550 Now haunted by the past, 27 00:01:24,652 --> 00:01:27,619 Their secrets waiting to be revealed. 28 00:01:27,721 --> 00:01:30,589 -- Captions by vitac -- www.Vitac.Com 29 00:01:30,691 --> 00:01:33,592 Captions paid for by discovery communications 30 00:01:33,694 --> 00:01:42,000 ♪ 31 00:01:42,103 --> 00:01:45,838 On the rugged coastline of jinguashih in taiwan 32 00:01:45,940 --> 00:01:48,273 Where mountains rise out of the ocean, 33 00:01:48,375 --> 00:01:53,045 An imposing structure breaks the otherwise lush green vegetation. 34 00:01:55,182 --> 00:01:57,449 Bell: There looks to be some kind of fortress 35 00:01:57,551 --> 00:01:59,518 Built into the mountainside. 36 00:01:59,620 --> 00:02:03,288 Fortress or castle, it's not really very clear. 37 00:02:03,390 --> 00:02:04,957 Barratt: So as you look at it, 38 00:02:05,059 --> 00:02:07,426 It's hard to make out what it's actually for. 39 00:02:07,528 --> 00:02:11,230 It's terraced and it's magnificent 40 00:02:11,332 --> 00:02:14,066 In its monumental scale. 41 00:02:14,168 --> 00:02:17,769 Meigs: It looks like some old fortress or palace 42 00:02:17,872 --> 00:02:18,937 Tumbling down the hillside, 43 00:02:19,039 --> 00:02:23,041 Or maybe some overgrown tibetan monastery. 44 00:02:23,144 --> 00:02:27,246 Barratt: But it's not luxurious, it's not ceremonial 45 00:02:27,348 --> 00:02:28,647 But nor is it domestic, 46 00:02:28,749 --> 00:02:33,485 There are no doors or windows that are apparent. 47 00:02:33,587 --> 00:02:35,420 Narrator: Clues as to its function 48 00:02:35,523 --> 00:02:38,056 May lie in the surrounding infrastructure. 49 00:02:38,159 --> 00:02:41,460 Meigs: Reaching away from it are these long pipes, 50 00:02:41,562 --> 00:02:43,262 Almost like tentacles disappearing 51 00:02:43,364 --> 00:02:46,131 Over the nearby ridges. 52 00:02:46,233 --> 00:02:48,200 They're like veins protruding out 53 00:02:48,302 --> 00:02:51,570 From this main fortress structure. 54 00:02:51,672 --> 00:02:54,806 Narrator: On a hill overlooking both the main complex 55 00:02:54,909 --> 00:02:59,178 And these giant pipelines is something altogether different. 56 00:02:59,280 --> 00:03:01,980 Bell: It looks quite grand and intricate 57 00:03:02,082 --> 00:03:04,116 Compared to the other structure. 58 00:03:04,218 --> 00:03:09,021 Maybe a sign of a more luxurious period of time for this area. 59 00:03:09,123 --> 00:03:14,693 Or perhaps the influence of a different culture or ruler. 60 00:03:14,795 --> 00:03:17,062 Narrator: What kind of facility was this 61 00:03:17,164 --> 00:03:19,298 And why would hundreds of americans 62 00:03:19,400 --> 00:03:21,433 Find themselves working here? 63 00:03:24,572 --> 00:03:31,777 For local resident, mr. Cheng, this place is in his blood. 64 00:03:31,879 --> 00:03:35,847 Interpreter: I've been through so much at this place. 65 00:03:35,950 --> 00:03:39,051 I was born, educated, worked here. 66 00:03:41,188 --> 00:03:44,756 Even after I retired, I'm still living here. 67 00:03:49,430 --> 00:03:51,530 Narrator: Now in his mid 80s, 68 00:03:51,632 --> 00:03:55,867 He remembers this facility in full flow. 69 00:03:55,970 --> 00:03:57,869 Interpreter: I was involved with an experiment 70 00:03:57,972 --> 00:04:00,038 With sulphides and copper. 71 00:04:03,244 --> 00:04:06,511 If the density of the sulphides were too high, 72 00:04:06,614 --> 00:04:10,082 You weren't able to extract the gold and copper from it. 73 00:04:13,287 --> 00:04:16,521 So we'd have to grind it in order to extract them. 74 00:04:19,059 --> 00:04:21,960 Narrator: This is the shuinandong smelter, 75 00:04:22,062 --> 00:04:26,331 Known locally as the remains of the 13 levels. 76 00:04:26,433 --> 00:04:31,169 A processing plant for refining and smelting copper and gold. 77 00:04:34,842 --> 00:04:38,176 Interpreter: The tunnel is a transportation system for mining. 78 00:04:40,180 --> 00:04:42,614 The rocks are transported out from here. 79 00:04:46,954 --> 00:04:49,254 This is tunnel six. 80 00:04:49,356 --> 00:04:54,726 The miners used to work here but there's no work anymore. 81 00:04:54,828 --> 00:04:57,529 It's dangerous, so they shut it down. 82 00:05:00,334 --> 00:05:03,268 Narrator: Once the high grade gold ore was extracted 83 00:05:03,370 --> 00:05:07,506 From beneath the mountains, these tunnels and railway lines 84 00:05:07,608 --> 00:05:10,075 Took the rocks to the smelter for processing. 85 00:05:10,177 --> 00:05:11,877 The way they'd process the ores, 86 00:05:11,979 --> 00:05:13,378 They would bring it in at the top 87 00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:15,180 And there were a series of processes 88 00:05:15,282 --> 00:05:17,382 And getting the ore to be refined 89 00:05:17,484 --> 00:05:19,217 In a pure and purest state 90 00:05:19,320 --> 00:05:22,321 As they worked their way down to the bottom. 91 00:05:22,423 --> 00:05:26,224 Bell: The reason it has these large arches without any windows 92 00:05:26,327 --> 00:05:31,163 Is that's where they loaded the rocks and the ore in and out. 93 00:05:31,265 --> 00:05:33,065 And the same goes with the ceiling, 94 00:05:33,167 --> 00:05:35,200 It was all about efficiency. 95 00:05:35,302 --> 00:05:37,703 Barratt: The smelter is a chemical process 96 00:05:37,805 --> 00:05:40,372 That involves huge amount of heat 97 00:05:40,474 --> 00:05:42,641 And also a massive amount of power 98 00:05:42,743 --> 00:05:47,979 To split the component parts of the raw ore into pieces 99 00:05:48,082 --> 00:05:50,716 And it's done through a process of reactions, 100 00:05:50,818 --> 00:05:53,552 With trying to separate and oxidize out 101 00:05:53,654 --> 00:05:55,587 The metals that you want. 102 00:05:57,658 --> 00:06:00,692 Narrator: Yet none of the valuable gold remained here. 103 00:06:00,794 --> 00:06:03,962 When this compound was constructed in the 1930s, 104 00:06:04,064 --> 00:06:06,431 Taiwan wasn't part of china. 105 00:06:06,533 --> 00:06:10,702 At that time mr. Cheng's father was working in brutal conditions 106 00:06:10,804 --> 00:06:13,638 Under the gaze of a different overlord. 107 00:06:17,111 --> 00:06:20,479 The ornate details and kanji writing around the site 108 00:06:20,581 --> 00:06:22,514 Reveal their identity. 109 00:06:22,616 --> 00:06:25,517 The empire of japan. 110 00:06:25,619 --> 00:06:28,687 Meigs: Wherever the japanese went they expected to stay. 111 00:06:28,789 --> 00:06:31,456 They thought they were building a grand empire 112 00:06:31,558 --> 00:06:35,193 That would last forever, and so they built not just 113 00:06:35,295 --> 00:06:38,063 Factories and smelters but shrines. 114 00:06:38,165 --> 00:06:40,065 Here in taiwan they built the shinto shrine 115 00:06:40,167 --> 00:06:41,800 To the mountain god. 116 00:06:43,771 --> 00:06:46,805 Narrator: Originally built to bring peace and stability, 117 00:06:46,907 --> 00:06:50,776 The health of local workers became secondary to gold, 118 00:06:50,878 --> 00:06:53,578 As mr. Cheng's father discovered. 119 00:06:56,383 --> 00:07:00,852 Interpreter: He worked in the mines as a mine worker. 120 00:07:00,954 --> 00:07:03,021 He was digging in the fields. 121 00:07:05,325 --> 00:07:07,893 I was four years old when he passed away. 122 00:07:07,995 --> 00:07:12,063 I was raised by my mother and brother. 123 00:07:12,166 --> 00:07:14,900 Narrator: Japan was an empire on the rise. 124 00:07:15,002 --> 00:07:17,602 Having emerged out of an era of isolation, 125 00:07:17,704 --> 00:07:21,573 The country had entered a period of rapid transformation 126 00:07:21,675 --> 00:07:26,978 And taiwan was incorporated into the empire of japan in 1895. 127 00:07:27,080 --> 00:07:29,114 It was the start of a chain reaction 128 00:07:29,216 --> 00:07:32,617 That would have devastating consequences for the region 129 00:07:32,719 --> 00:07:36,555 And for many young americans. 130 00:07:36,657 --> 00:07:39,458 Taking over taiwan was one of the first steps 131 00:07:39,560 --> 00:07:41,092 In japan's expansionism, 132 00:07:41,195 --> 00:07:44,029 Where they would ultimately takeover much of asia 133 00:07:44,131 --> 00:07:48,233 And finally attack the u.S. At pearl harbor. 134 00:07:48,335 --> 00:07:50,402 Narrator: After taiwan came korea. 135 00:07:50,504 --> 00:07:52,938 Then they turned their gaze back to northern china 136 00:07:53,040 --> 00:07:56,308 With the invasion of manchuria in 1931. 137 00:07:56,410 --> 00:08:02,347 Meigs: Japan really conducted itself like great britain at its prime. 138 00:08:02,449 --> 00:08:05,817 They had a powerful navy, they set up colonies, 139 00:08:05,919 --> 00:08:07,419 They took over territory, 140 00:08:07,521 --> 00:08:10,255 And wherever they went they wanted to extract resources, 141 00:08:10,357 --> 00:08:13,325 They wanted to accumulate wealth. 142 00:08:13,427 --> 00:08:16,194 Narrator: The taiwanese people here in jinguashih 143 00:08:16,296 --> 00:08:20,165 Would enjoy little of this wealth. 144 00:08:20,267 --> 00:08:24,603 Interpreter: They exploited most of the gold when it was under japanese rule. 145 00:08:24,705 --> 00:08:28,440 They sent all of it japan for their national celebrations. 146 00:08:30,644 --> 00:08:36,548 Narrator: The exploitation extended into all aspects of life. 147 00:08:36,650 --> 00:08:38,783 Interpreter: Since we were ruled by the japanese, 148 00:08:38,886 --> 00:08:42,087 We became second-class citizens. 149 00:08:42,189 --> 00:08:43,855 It became much tougher. 150 00:08:47,327 --> 00:08:49,628 Even with schools, there were different schools 151 00:08:49,730 --> 00:08:53,265 For the japanese and the locals. 152 00:08:53,367 --> 00:08:55,000 We were segregated. 153 00:08:58,572 --> 00:09:02,974 Narrator: By the time mr. Cheng arrived here as a young man in 1943, 154 00:09:03,076 --> 00:09:05,310 The pacific war was raging. 155 00:09:05,412 --> 00:09:07,779 Japan's desire to dominate the pacific 156 00:09:07,881 --> 00:09:11,783 Had brought them into direct conflict with america, 157 00:09:11,885 --> 00:09:16,821 And that meant a new labor force was arriving on the island. 158 00:09:16,924 --> 00:09:19,124 Bell: Prisoners of war caught by the japanese 159 00:09:19,226 --> 00:09:21,159 Were sent to this mine, 160 00:09:21,228 --> 00:09:24,930 Now the biggest copper mine in the japanese empire 161 00:09:25,032 --> 00:09:29,734 And they were predominantly british and american soldiers. 162 00:09:29,836 --> 00:09:33,338 Narrator: In total, 1,100 allied prisoners of war 163 00:09:33,473 --> 00:09:34,873 Served time here. 164 00:09:34,975 --> 00:09:37,876 Many brought in on hell ships from singapore 165 00:09:37,978 --> 00:09:39,311 And the philippines. 166 00:09:39,413 --> 00:09:43,214 Bell: Most were forced to work here for almost three years 167 00:09:43,317 --> 00:09:45,250 And faced conditions as bad, 168 00:09:45,352 --> 00:09:49,521 If not worse than on the railway of death in burma 169 00:09:49,623 --> 00:09:52,891 Made famous by movies like "bridge on the river kwai." 170 00:09:52,993 --> 00:09:56,061 Narrator: Many died of disease, and a prisoner of war 171 00:09:56,163 --> 00:10:01,733 Memorial erected here in 1997 pays homage to their memory. 172 00:10:05,305 --> 00:10:08,873 The japanese surrendered and left in 1945, 173 00:10:08,976 --> 00:10:11,142 So who was behind the mammoth pipelines 174 00:10:11,244 --> 00:10:13,311 That extend out of the facility? 175 00:10:17,484 --> 00:10:24,822 ♪ 176 00:10:24,891 --> 00:10:29,094 Narrator: On the coast of taiwan, a former gold and copper smelter 177 00:10:29,196 --> 00:10:33,732 Built by the japanese empire tumbles down the mountainside. 178 00:10:33,834 --> 00:10:36,968 After the country's restoration in 1945, 179 00:10:37,104 --> 00:10:41,106 The taiwan gold and copper mining bureau was established. 180 00:10:41,241 --> 00:10:44,042 But it soon faced new challenges. 181 00:10:44,144 --> 00:10:48,346 With gold deposits depleted, the focus was on copper refining 182 00:10:48,448 --> 00:10:53,018 And then purification. 183 00:10:53,120 --> 00:10:56,755 Interpreter: They started purification in 1965. 184 00:10:59,660 --> 00:11:03,061 There was a 65 meter high chimney, 185 00:11:03,163 --> 00:11:06,197 But it was really close to the factory. 186 00:11:06,299 --> 00:11:08,299 The sulfate levels were high. 187 00:11:11,538 --> 00:11:14,806 And the residents and workers couldn't take it. 188 00:11:17,110 --> 00:11:20,278 Narrator: Safely disposing of these toxic emissions 189 00:11:20,380 --> 00:11:23,314 Required a marvel of engineering. 190 00:11:23,417 --> 00:11:27,352 Barratt: What they ended up doing was building a massive chimney 191 00:11:27,454 --> 00:11:29,921 Or flue system to take the gases up 192 00:11:30,023 --> 00:11:31,656 And away out of the valley 193 00:11:31,758 --> 00:11:34,592 And over the ridge of the mountain. 194 00:11:34,695 --> 00:11:37,195 Meigs: It's actually, they say it's the longest 195 00:11:37,297 --> 00:11:42,667 Concrete pipeline ventilation system in the world. 196 00:11:42,736 --> 00:11:45,270 Narrator: Despite this, with dwindling profits 197 00:11:45,372 --> 00:11:48,339 And compensation claims hanging over their heads, 198 00:11:48,442 --> 00:11:51,042 The company soon shut down operations. 199 00:11:51,144 --> 00:11:58,450 ♪ 200 00:11:58,552 --> 00:12:02,587 The japanese shrine still looks over this dramatic scene, 201 00:12:02,689 --> 00:12:06,758 A remnant of an empire that emerged at an extraordinary pace 202 00:12:06,860 --> 00:12:10,662 And crumbled away even faster. 203 00:12:10,764 --> 00:12:14,532 Barratt: The ornate, well-built, carefully-crafted shrine. 204 00:12:14,634 --> 00:12:18,503 Stands in great contrast to the brutality of the smelter, 205 00:12:18,605 --> 00:12:21,740 But it shows exactly how much the japanese 206 00:12:21,842 --> 00:12:23,475 And the local people valued 207 00:12:23,610 --> 00:12:26,778 The raw materials buried under the earth here. 208 00:12:30,517 --> 00:12:32,417 Once under the grip of imperial japan, 209 00:12:32,519 --> 00:12:35,687 Even today taiwan continues to be at the heart 210 00:12:35,789 --> 00:12:38,923 Of complex regional politics. 211 00:12:39,025 --> 00:12:42,694 Some people here are still fighting for independence, 212 00:12:42,796 --> 00:12:45,363 This time from china. 213 00:12:52,405 --> 00:12:55,573 Out in rural champagne county, illinois 214 00:12:55,675 --> 00:12:58,943 Lie a group of massive abandoned warehouses. 215 00:12:59,045 --> 00:13:00,745 But they're not alone. 216 00:13:06,520 --> 00:13:09,154 Mitchell: It's a huge area with buildings 217 00:13:09,256 --> 00:13:11,422 That look in fairly good condition. 218 00:13:11,525 --> 00:13:15,860 It looks sort of like its own self-contained town. 219 00:13:15,962 --> 00:13:21,032 Corum: Fire station, warehouses, housing, stores, 220 00:13:21,134 --> 00:13:24,936 It's all shut down, everything's overgrown. 221 00:13:25,071 --> 00:13:29,374 Selwood: The focal point is these three huge hangar like structures. 222 00:13:29,476 --> 00:13:32,911 Quite clearly the hangars tell you what this site was 223 00:13:33,013 --> 00:13:35,180 But yet when you look at the other elements, 224 00:13:35,282 --> 00:13:38,316 There's something else going on here. 225 00:13:38,418 --> 00:13:42,921 Narrator: Clues inside suggest these hangars weren't just for storage 226 00:13:43,023 --> 00:13:44,989 But for something rather different. 227 00:13:45,091 --> 00:13:50,195 The large hangars give you the impression that when this place 228 00:13:50,297 --> 00:13:55,066 Was operating it must have been filled with machines, 229 00:13:55,168 --> 00:13:58,336 Aircraft, equipment and people. 230 00:13:58,438 --> 00:14:01,773 Something that really makes it feel rather ghostly 231 00:14:01,908 --> 00:14:03,975 Is its vastness and its emptiness, 232 00:14:04,077 --> 00:14:08,079 And a sense of something having just gone away, 233 00:14:08,181 --> 00:14:12,016 Almost inexplicably. 234 00:14:12,118 --> 00:14:14,485 You have a sense that the answer to this place 235 00:14:14,588 --> 00:14:15,653 Lies at the bottom of the stairs, 236 00:14:15,755 --> 00:14:17,055 Here is where you're finally going to understand 237 00:14:17,157 --> 00:14:18,356 What this is for. 238 00:14:18,458 --> 00:14:20,491 But in fact what you're confronted with 239 00:14:20,594 --> 00:14:22,861 Is a lake of water, it's entirely unpassable. 240 00:14:22,963 --> 00:14:25,930 You can go no further. 241 00:14:26,032 --> 00:14:29,167 Narrator: In its day, this place was at the forefront 242 00:14:29,269 --> 00:14:31,269 Of technological change. 243 00:14:31,371 --> 00:14:32,737 But it was also at the heart 244 00:14:32,839 --> 00:14:36,274 Of a ground breaking social transformation. 245 00:14:36,376 --> 00:14:39,077 The war department authorized the formation 246 00:14:39,179 --> 00:14:41,145 Of the 99th pursuit squadron, 247 00:14:41,248 --> 00:14:44,315 Which was the first all-black squadron. 248 00:14:44,417 --> 00:14:47,452 Narrator: This vast site would become the birthplace 249 00:14:47,554 --> 00:14:49,921 Of an african american air squadron 250 00:14:50,056 --> 00:14:52,857 Who went on to become world renowned. 251 00:14:55,395 --> 00:14:58,830 The clue to the origins of this site in rural illinois 252 00:14:58,932 --> 00:15:00,832 Are found outside. 253 00:15:00,934 --> 00:15:02,300 The air strip. 254 00:15:02,402 --> 00:15:06,504 The first one built here was completed in the early 1900s. 255 00:15:06,606 --> 00:15:08,907 Aviation in the early 20th century 256 00:15:09,009 --> 00:15:10,808 Was an incredibly exciting new adventure. 257 00:15:10,911 --> 00:15:14,012 This was all about boundaries and how to break them. 258 00:15:16,650 --> 00:15:20,151 John pratt worked at this site for 22 years. 259 00:15:20,253 --> 00:15:22,086 I probably would have retired here. 260 00:15:22,188 --> 00:15:23,955 I was that close to it. 261 00:15:24,057 --> 00:15:27,592 But the walk around now is very painful. 262 00:15:27,694 --> 00:15:28,593 It's hard to see this. 263 00:15:28,695 --> 00:15:31,429 It was a beautiful installation. 264 00:15:31,531 --> 00:15:37,035 This place was vital to the protection of the united states. 265 00:15:37,137 --> 00:15:39,237 At the time of the site's inception, 266 00:15:39,339 --> 00:15:41,773 The u.S. Military was facing a problem. 267 00:15:41,875 --> 00:15:45,410 Even though aviation was really sort of born 268 00:15:45,512 --> 00:15:47,145 In the united states, 269 00:15:47,247 --> 00:15:48,746 The united states was sort of slow 270 00:15:48,848 --> 00:15:52,317 To take advantage of that ability. 271 00:15:52,419 --> 00:15:54,319 Selwood: The wright brothers may have started it all, 272 00:15:54,421 --> 00:15:57,488 But by 1917 the americans had fallen behind 273 00:15:57,590 --> 00:15:59,757 In terms of aviation technology. 274 00:15:59,859 --> 00:16:04,696 So this place was specifically created to remedy that. 275 00:16:04,798 --> 00:16:08,499 Corum: There was a vast amount of money, 276 00:16:08,601 --> 00:16:14,272 Over $600 million appropriated by the congress in 1917 277 00:16:14,374 --> 00:16:20,178 Solely for building up u.S. Aviation infrastructure. 278 00:16:20,280 --> 00:16:23,247 Narrator: A suitable site had to be chosen for the u.S. 279 00:16:23,350 --> 00:16:25,383 To develop their air power. 280 00:16:25,485 --> 00:16:29,587 It was an isolated situation, it's flat lands out here 281 00:16:29,689 --> 00:16:31,856 And it was a good flying place, 282 00:16:31,958 --> 00:16:34,559 It was centrally located in the united states. 283 00:16:37,430 --> 00:16:40,498 Narrator: But testing aircraft was only the start. 284 00:16:40,600 --> 00:16:45,003 As the site soon became a vital cog in the u.S. War machine 285 00:16:45,105 --> 00:16:48,406 And ultimately a training site for operators 286 00:16:48,508 --> 00:16:52,076 Of one of the largest nuclear weapons in the world. 287 00:16:55,281 --> 00:17:04,055 ♪ 288 00:17:04,157 --> 00:17:07,058 Narrator: During the 1930s, air force pilots 289 00:17:07,160 --> 00:17:11,796 Were taking to the skies above this site in illinois. 290 00:17:11,898 --> 00:17:16,968 But back on the ground, pilots were not the focus. 291 00:17:17,070 --> 00:17:18,936 When you think of airplanes, you think of pilots 292 00:17:19,039 --> 00:17:20,872 But actually that's only a small part of the story. 293 00:17:20,974 --> 00:17:23,307 What it takes to keep airplanes in the air 294 00:17:23,410 --> 00:17:27,845 Is a vast number of different skills, ground crew, engineers. 295 00:17:27,947 --> 00:17:31,682 Mitchell: It's absolutely critical that people are trained 296 00:17:31,785 --> 00:17:35,253 In various aspects of maintaining the planes, 297 00:17:35,355 --> 00:17:37,255 And so it's really about building 298 00:17:37,357 --> 00:17:41,225 And training a crew in all aspects of maintenance. 299 00:17:44,330 --> 00:17:48,032 Narrator: This is the chanute air force base. 300 00:17:48,134 --> 00:17:50,568 Chanute field, as it was first known, 301 00:17:50,670 --> 00:17:52,403 Was used for technical training 302 00:17:52,505 --> 00:17:57,942 And to instruct cadets in the rigors of flying warplanes. 303 00:17:58,044 --> 00:18:00,211 The first real challenge for this place 304 00:18:00,313 --> 00:18:04,449 Came with the outbreak of the second world war. 305 00:18:04,551 --> 00:18:07,518 Selwood: Everything changed for the united states with pearl harbor. 306 00:18:07,620 --> 00:18:10,088 After that attack, america was on a war footing 307 00:18:10,223 --> 00:18:13,091 And knew it was about to engage and so this place became 308 00:18:13,193 --> 00:18:16,894 Absolutely key to the air effort. 309 00:18:16,996 --> 00:18:24,469 Corum: The u.S. Army air corps expands from perhaps 20,000 in 1939 310 00:18:24,571 --> 00:18:28,506 To several million by 1943, 1944. 311 00:18:28,608 --> 00:18:33,511 Now this expansion requires a training infrastructure 312 00:18:33,613 --> 00:18:35,279 That is enormous. 313 00:18:37,717 --> 00:18:40,351 Well, this place is huge. 314 00:18:40,453 --> 00:18:42,520 It's bigger even when it's empty. 315 00:18:42,622 --> 00:18:44,889 There was all kinds of training that went on in here 316 00:18:44,991 --> 00:18:48,860 And all kinds of activity from wall to wall. 317 00:18:48,962 --> 00:18:52,063 There would be planes and activity and classes 318 00:18:52,165 --> 00:18:55,032 Going on all the way through here. 319 00:18:55,135 --> 00:18:57,034 Corum: Let's take a b17 bomber, 320 00:18:57,137 --> 00:19:00,438 A b17 bomber carried a flight engineer 321 00:19:00,540 --> 00:19:04,642 Who would have been trained here at chanute field. 322 00:19:04,744 --> 00:19:07,812 The b17 also carried the radiomen, 323 00:19:07,914 --> 00:19:11,415 They had radio courses and then radio repair courses, 324 00:19:11,518 --> 00:19:16,721 Radio specialist courses here at chanute field. 325 00:19:16,823 --> 00:19:20,057 Pratt: There were four places similar to this 326 00:19:20,160 --> 00:19:23,027 And they were filled with activity everyday. 327 00:19:23,129 --> 00:19:26,564 There were students coming and going all the time. 328 00:19:26,666 --> 00:19:29,534 Narrator: To support these large-scale training programs, 329 00:19:29,636 --> 00:19:32,236 A vast infrastructure emerged. 330 00:19:35,175 --> 00:19:38,142 It had its own food, it had its own road department, 331 00:19:38,244 --> 00:19:42,813 It had its own water system, it had its own heating plants. 332 00:19:42,916 --> 00:19:45,149 Chanute was almost its own city. 333 00:19:45,251 --> 00:19:47,752 It was totally self-supporting. 334 00:19:49,689 --> 00:19:52,757 Narrator: But it wasn't just the kind of training taking place here 335 00:19:52,859 --> 00:19:54,592 That was groundbreaking. 336 00:19:54,694 --> 00:19:57,461 It was also who was being trained. 337 00:19:57,564 --> 00:20:00,264 At the beginning of world war two, 338 00:20:00,366 --> 00:20:05,536 The society in the united states is thoroughly segregated. 339 00:20:05,638 --> 00:20:08,372 Narrator: In 1940, the u.S. Census recorded 340 00:20:08,474 --> 00:20:11,642 Only 140 african american pilots 341 00:20:11,744 --> 00:20:13,277 Across the nation. 342 00:20:13,379 --> 00:20:14,879 But this would soon change. 343 00:20:14,981 --> 00:20:16,781 There were black airmen that came here 344 00:20:16,883 --> 00:20:19,717 And then they were trained as mechanics. 345 00:20:19,819 --> 00:20:22,787 But some of them had prior flying experience, 346 00:20:22,889 --> 00:20:24,388 And they were doing exceptionally well 347 00:20:24,490 --> 00:20:25,523 In the classes 348 00:20:25,625 --> 00:20:27,792 And so some of the people in the base 349 00:20:27,894 --> 00:20:31,829 Decided that they would make them into actual pilots. 350 00:20:33,900 --> 00:20:35,900 Narrator: Fighting a war against the fascist 351 00:20:36,002 --> 00:20:38,102 And racist regime in europe, 352 00:20:38,204 --> 00:20:42,440 Suddenly the united states own policies were under scrutiny. 353 00:20:42,542 --> 00:20:46,143 Mitchell: So it's a moment that united states realizes that 354 00:20:46,246 --> 00:20:48,145 Having this squadron, this 99th squadron, 355 00:20:48,248 --> 00:20:52,883 Training these black pilots, is a way to indicate an opening, 356 00:20:52,986 --> 00:20:56,921 A commitment to democracy, a commitment against racism. 357 00:20:57,056 --> 00:20:59,590 Unlike some of their peers in the army for example, 358 00:20:59,692 --> 00:21:02,693 They're being trained equally, and so this is a breakdown 359 00:21:02,795 --> 00:21:06,697 Of segregation in the united states military. 360 00:21:06,799 --> 00:21:09,900 Narrator: That unit would evolve into the tuskegee airmen, 361 00:21:10,003 --> 00:21:12,670 Who would become world famous. 362 00:21:12,739 --> 00:21:16,774 And so the 99th pursuit squadron became the tuskegee airmen 363 00:21:16,876 --> 00:21:18,609 And they moved them to tuskegee, alabama 364 00:21:18,711 --> 00:21:20,878 From here and became pilots. 365 00:21:20,980 --> 00:21:23,614 So they were trained initially at chanute. 366 00:21:23,716 --> 00:21:25,049 The forming of the tuskegee airmen, 367 00:21:25,151 --> 00:21:28,486 A very important part of the chanute's history. 368 00:21:28,588 --> 00:21:30,788 Mitchell: These first black military aviators 369 00:21:30,923 --> 00:21:32,990 Had a really critical role to play. 370 00:21:33,126 --> 00:21:37,228 They flew over 15,000 individual sorties 371 00:21:37,330 --> 00:21:39,630 Over north africa and europe. 372 00:21:39,732 --> 00:21:42,933 So they really had a wide ranging impact 373 00:21:43,036 --> 00:21:44,568 And sphere of influence. 374 00:21:44,671 --> 00:21:48,973 And for their skill and bravery and commitment, 375 00:21:49,075 --> 00:21:53,210 They received 150 distinguished flying crosses, 376 00:21:53,313 --> 00:21:55,479 Which is a very significant record. 377 00:21:57,216 --> 00:22:00,251 Well, chanute's favorite saying was we were the pace setters. 378 00:22:00,353 --> 00:22:03,454 We were willing to stay up front of everything that was going on. 379 00:22:03,556 --> 00:22:05,690 The people that were trained here 380 00:22:05,792 --> 00:22:09,393 Were the top technicians in their fields. 381 00:22:11,731 --> 00:22:14,498 Narrator: Whilst the work being done here during world war two 382 00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:16,734 Was vital to the u.S. War effort, 383 00:22:16,836 --> 00:22:19,403 Much of what remains lies empty, 384 00:22:19,505 --> 00:22:21,405 Yet the interior of one hangar suggests 385 00:22:21,507 --> 00:22:23,074 The site still had a crucial role 386 00:22:23,176 --> 00:22:26,377 To play later in the nuclear age. 387 00:22:30,183 --> 00:22:39,290 ♪ 388 00:22:39,392 --> 00:22:41,992 Narrator: In illinois, the chanute air force base 389 00:22:42,095 --> 00:22:43,561 Played an integral part 390 00:22:43,663 --> 00:22:46,564 In the u.S. Efforts during world war two 391 00:22:46,666 --> 00:22:50,601 But just a few years later a new threat was on the horizon. 392 00:22:50,703 --> 00:22:52,970 Corum: We're talking about a very powerful, 393 00:22:53,072 --> 00:22:56,774 Aggressive, totalitarian soviet union on one side 394 00:22:56,876 --> 00:23:00,211 With a vast number of nuclear weapons. 395 00:23:00,313 --> 00:23:03,614 Mitchell: There was a new type of aerial warfare during the cold war, 396 00:23:03,716 --> 00:23:05,649 During this nuclear age and chanute 397 00:23:05,752 --> 00:23:09,820 Was at the forefront of offering this training in a situation 398 00:23:09,922 --> 00:23:13,824 Where mistakes could cost american lives. 399 00:23:13,926 --> 00:23:16,827 Narrator: These new weapons were titan intercontinental 400 00:23:16,929 --> 00:23:18,396 Ballistic missiles, 401 00:23:18,498 --> 00:23:20,865 Some of the largest ever deployed. 402 00:23:20,967 --> 00:23:23,968 Selwood: But that spirit and legacy of innovation 403 00:23:24,070 --> 00:23:26,737 And training and reliability, 404 00:23:26,839 --> 00:23:29,507 When the time came for the titan missile program, 405 00:23:29,609 --> 00:23:33,177 Chanute was the obvious place to host it. 406 00:23:33,279 --> 00:23:35,846 Pratt: Well, in the 1950s it was decided 407 00:23:35,948 --> 00:23:40,384 That all seven different missile programs 408 00:23:40,486 --> 00:23:44,889 Would move here to chanute and the training was conducted here. 409 00:23:44,991 --> 00:23:46,857 This was the primary training facility 410 00:23:46,959 --> 00:23:51,362 For especially missile launch and missile maintenance. 411 00:23:51,464 --> 00:23:55,733 Narrator: The titan missile housed a nine megaton nuclear warhead, 412 00:23:55,835 --> 00:23:58,803 Making it america's single most powerful nuclear weapon 413 00:23:58,905 --> 00:24:02,640 At the time, and at chanute the titan missile silo 414 00:24:02,742 --> 00:24:06,377 Was housed inside a vast hangar so missileers 415 00:24:06,479 --> 00:24:08,913 Could train in the latest deployment techniques. 416 00:24:09,015 --> 00:24:12,049 They were fully prepared to go out into the field 417 00:24:12,151 --> 00:24:17,555 And take the order if necessary to fire a missile. 418 00:24:17,657 --> 00:24:20,257 Narrator: The crews trained at chanute through the years 419 00:24:20,359 --> 00:24:23,961 Had to be vigilant and alert for whatever threats were coming. 420 00:24:24,063 --> 00:24:31,936 Corum: So chanute is one of the pillars of the success of western power 421 00:24:32,038 --> 00:24:34,605 In the cold war and we're free today 422 00:24:34,707 --> 00:24:39,477 Because chanute did a very good job in training its people. 423 00:24:39,579 --> 00:24:41,011 Narrator: Chanute provided training 424 00:24:41,113 --> 00:24:45,182 For thousands of u.S. Air force airmen 425 00:24:45,284 --> 00:24:47,885 Until the government downsized the armed forces 426 00:24:47,987 --> 00:24:50,254 And it was closed in 1993. 427 00:24:50,356 --> 00:24:54,492 ♪ 428 00:24:54,594 --> 00:24:57,661 Selwood: The slightly melancholy aspect to places like this, 429 00:24:57,763 --> 00:25:01,799 The sad reality is that whilst war is live, 430 00:25:01,901 --> 00:25:04,535 Places like this are of a supreme importance. 431 00:25:04,637 --> 00:25:07,805 But when the war is over, there's no real need for it. 432 00:25:07,907 --> 00:25:10,274 Their legacy is one that is so powerful 433 00:25:10,376 --> 00:25:11,609 But so quickly forgotten. 434 00:25:14,814 --> 00:25:16,714 This was like a family, there were a lot of people 435 00:25:16,816 --> 00:25:20,050 That just really enjoyed working with each other, 436 00:25:20,152 --> 00:25:21,285 And they enjoyed their jobs, 437 00:25:21,387 --> 00:25:24,522 And they really enjoyed what they were doing. 438 00:25:24,624 --> 00:25:27,157 It gave their life a meaning to work here. 439 00:25:27,260 --> 00:25:30,895 And, at least for me, that was a very important thing. 440 00:25:30,997 --> 00:25:34,031 Narrator: Beyond its invaluable contribution 441 00:25:34,133 --> 00:25:35,566 To the defense of a nation. 442 00:25:35,668 --> 00:25:38,235 Chanute air force base is at the heart 443 00:25:38,337 --> 00:25:41,238 Of an important and an enduring legacy. 444 00:25:42,375 --> 00:25:44,742 It's in the buildings of chanute where integration 445 00:25:44,844 --> 00:25:46,243 Actually starts to occur, 446 00:25:46,345 --> 00:25:48,312 Meaningful integration, in terms of training 447 00:25:48,414 --> 00:25:51,615 Of black pilots with white pilots, 448 00:25:51,717 --> 00:25:53,717 Black crew with white crew, 449 00:25:53,819 --> 00:25:57,321 And so there's a real moment in terms of something happening 450 00:25:57,456 --> 00:26:00,925 Within the buildings, an erosion of segregation. 451 00:26:01,027 --> 00:26:04,128 A segregation that was really part and parcel 452 00:26:04,230 --> 00:26:06,230 Of the american fabric at this time. 453 00:26:06,365 --> 00:26:15,839 ♪ 454 00:26:15,942 --> 00:26:18,809 Narrator: In a remote region of western ukraine, 455 00:26:18,911 --> 00:26:23,314 Stands an imposing building with an unusual charm. 456 00:26:28,187 --> 00:26:29,887 Meigs: You're out in this rural area 457 00:26:29,989 --> 00:26:33,691 And here's a hulking, massive castle. 458 00:26:33,793 --> 00:26:36,226 It looks almost like an english manor house 459 00:26:36,329 --> 00:26:38,929 Out of a tim burton movie. 460 00:26:39,065 --> 00:26:40,798 In examining this palace, 461 00:26:40,900 --> 00:26:43,567 You know, you're struck by its grandeur, 462 00:26:43,669 --> 00:26:46,604 It's munificence and yet something really bad 463 00:26:46,706 --> 00:26:48,472 Has happened to it. 464 00:26:48,574 --> 00:26:49,840 Nusbacher: It's brooding. 465 00:26:49,942 --> 00:26:53,243 Every one of those windows looks like it ought 466 00:26:53,346 --> 00:26:57,648 To have a ghost hiding in the draperies. 467 00:26:57,750 --> 00:27:01,018 You can see how people could find this kind of spooky 468 00:27:01,120 --> 00:27:03,520 And unsettling. 469 00:27:03,656 --> 00:27:05,522 Narrator: All across this grand building 470 00:27:05,625 --> 00:27:09,393 Are confusing design aspects. 471 00:27:09,495 --> 00:27:12,029 Meigs: This has kind of a split personality. 472 00:27:12,131 --> 00:27:16,734 On the one hand, it looks like a sprawling english country estate 473 00:27:16,836 --> 00:27:19,470 With grand windows and ballrooms. 474 00:27:19,572 --> 00:27:22,239 On the other hand, it has a military quality, 475 00:27:22,341 --> 00:27:25,142 It's got a moat and then placements for cannons. 476 00:27:27,179 --> 00:27:28,512 Narrator: Throughout its life, 477 00:27:28,614 --> 00:27:31,749 This building went through so much turmoil, 478 00:27:31,851 --> 00:27:34,985 But what finally struck this place down was a bizarre 479 00:27:35,087 --> 00:27:37,254 And unexpected twist to its story. 480 00:27:37,356 --> 00:27:42,459 ♪ 481 00:27:42,561 --> 00:27:47,164 The foundations of this castle are buried in the 17th century 482 00:27:47,266 --> 00:27:51,435 When this area was part of the polish lithuanian commonwealth, 483 00:27:51,537 --> 00:27:55,372 A territory that stretched over 400,000 square miles 484 00:27:55,474 --> 00:27:58,342 In eastern europe. 485 00:27:58,444 --> 00:27:59,777 Wawro: Palace was built by a guy 486 00:27:59,879 --> 00:28:04,214 Named stanislaw koniecpolski who was a grand hetman, 487 00:28:04,316 --> 00:28:08,285 Meaning a senior advisor to the king and a guy that, 488 00:28:08,387 --> 00:28:10,287 You know, exercised a lot of power 489 00:28:10,389 --> 00:28:15,159 And wanted to build a house that reflected his personal role 490 00:28:15,261 --> 00:28:19,363 In this polish lithuanian commonwealth. 491 00:28:19,465 --> 00:28:22,232 Narrator: Historian, ivan dudych has explored 492 00:28:22,334 --> 00:28:24,201 Every room in this building. 493 00:28:25,671 --> 00:28:27,438 Interpreter: Hidden behind the fortress walls 494 00:28:27,540 --> 00:28:29,907 There is a real royal luxury inside. 495 00:28:30,009 --> 00:28:32,609 There are bright grand rooms that display wealth. 496 00:28:32,712 --> 00:28:35,345 There were balls and thematic evenings here, 497 00:28:35,448 --> 00:28:37,414 Both theatrical and poetic. 498 00:28:37,516 --> 00:28:39,450 There were also musical performances. 499 00:28:39,552 --> 00:28:43,153 Life raged within these walls. 500 00:28:43,255 --> 00:28:47,758 Narrator: But this building doesn't only feel like a luxurious palace, 501 00:28:47,860 --> 00:28:49,660 The parties came later, 502 00:28:49,762 --> 00:28:53,864 Something else was going on here before. 503 00:28:53,966 --> 00:28:58,068 It's not exactly a palace for a aristocrat 504 00:28:58,170 --> 00:28:59,837 To enjoy all the pleasures of life 505 00:28:59,939 --> 00:29:01,939 Because it has some real military features. 506 00:29:02,041 --> 00:29:04,007 It's up on this hill, it has a moat around it, 507 00:29:04,110 --> 00:29:06,777 It has a couple of fortified bastions on it 508 00:29:06,879 --> 00:29:09,646 To repel attackers. 509 00:29:09,749 --> 00:29:11,615 Nusbacher: When you look at this place from the air, 510 00:29:11,717 --> 00:29:16,186 You see the long pointy corners of what's called 511 00:29:16,288 --> 00:29:20,224 The truss italian, the italian shape of fortresses. 512 00:29:20,326 --> 00:29:23,961 And this is designed to repel cannon fire. 513 00:29:26,065 --> 00:29:28,398 Meigs: To the extent that koniecpolski built 514 00:29:28,501 --> 00:29:31,702 A military structure, one that could be defended, 515 00:29:31,804 --> 00:29:35,038 That turned out to be smart, because in fact, 516 00:29:35,141 --> 00:29:39,543 This palace was the focal point of a number of battles 517 00:29:39,645 --> 00:29:40,878 And attacks over the years. 518 00:29:40,980 --> 00:29:43,714 ♪ 519 00:29:43,816 --> 00:29:46,784 Narrator: Reflecting the violent times it was built in, 520 00:29:46,886 --> 00:29:50,053 The result was a unique hybrid design. 521 00:29:50,156 --> 00:29:52,823 An opulent grandiosity on the inside, 522 00:29:52,925 --> 00:29:55,359 But a brutally efficient military structure 523 00:29:55,461 --> 00:29:57,327 On the outside. 524 00:29:57,429 --> 00:29:59,563 This is pidhirtsi castle. 525 00:29:59,665 --> 00:30:04,768 ♪ 526 00:30:04,870 --> 00:30:06,470 Interpreter: What were the defensive advantages 527 00:30:06,572 --> 00:30:07,905 Of this type of castle? 528 00:30:08,007 --> 00:30:11,842 At close range it was easy to fire effectively from the castle 529 00:30:11,944 --> 00:30:15,279 And the fact that it had a bastion and pentagon towers 530 00:30:15,381 --> 00:30:17,114 Made it hard to breach. 531 00:30:19,185 --> 00:30:22,352 Nusbacher: Here is a strategically important valley. 532 00:30:22,454 --> 00:30:25,489 If you come charging up this valley 533 00:30:25,591 --> 00:30:27,825 And if you can get up there with impunity 534 00:30:27,927 --> 00:30:30,194 Then you can make inroads 535 00:30:30,296 --> 00:30:35,532 Against the polish lithuanian commonwealth. 536 00:30:35,634 --> 00:30:39,169 Narrator: Across the first 150 years of its existence, 537 00:30:39,271 --> 00:30:41,972 The castle saw battle after battle, 538 00:30:42,074 --> 00:30:44,775 But the warring wouldn't last forever. 539 00:30:44,877 --> 00:30:48,478 Wawro: It suddenly arrives in an era of peace from the 1770s onward 540 00:30:48,581 --> 00:30:50,480 Because of the partitions of poland. 541 00:30:50,583 --> 00:30:53,650 So now this is a golden age for the castle 542 00:30:53,752 --> 00:30:56,887 Because now it's in a region that's characterized by peace, 543 00:30:56,989 --> 00:31:00,357 It can develop all of its economic assets. 544 00:31:00,459 --> 00:31:03,293 Nusbacher: As the austro-hungarian empire 545 00:31:03,395 --> 00:31:06,630 Starts to exert control over galicia, 546 00:31:06,732 --> 00:31:10,834 This part of the world, it becomes a lot more peaceful 547 00:31:10,936 --> 00:31:14,404 And as austro hungarian empire 548 00:31:14,506 --> 00:31:20,110 Policies start to make this place wealthy, 549 00:31:20,212 --> 00:31:26,850 This fortress becomes a jewel of a country house. 550 00:31:26,952 --> 00:31:29,386 Narrator: Designed with opulence in mind, 551 00:31:29,488 --> 00:31:34,458 Pidhirtsi castle now reverts to its original purpose. 552 00:31:34,560 --> 00:31:38,128 Interpreter: The second floor was occupied by the royal rooms. 553 00:31:38,230 --> 00:31:41,365 There were several halls, crimson hall, yellow hall 554 00:31:41,467 --> 00:31:43,300 And the european throne room. 555 00:31:43,402 --> 00:31:45,936 They all helped influence the decorative style 556 00:31:46,038 --> 00:31:48,739 Of other palaces and castles in the region. 557 00:31:48,841 --> 00:31:51,041 There were highly artistic parquet floors, 558 00:31:51,143 --> 00:31:52,442 Marble window sills 559 00:31:52,544 --> 00:31:56,713 And all the walls were covered with precious tapestries. 560 00:31:56,815 --> 00:32:01,418 Nusbacher: This castle becomes a place of ostentation. 561 00:32:01,520 --> 00:32:06,423 It becomes a place to show off wealth. 562 00:32:06,525 --> 00:32:08,458 But for all its glamour, 563 00:32:08,560 --> 00:32:12,629 There was something troubling lingering in the background. 564 00:32:12,731 --> 00:32:17,067 A gruesome tale that still haunts the castle's empty rooms 565 00:32:17,169 --> 00:32:19,770 And dark corridors. 566 00:32:19,872 --> 00:32:22,739 Interpreter: We're currently standing in the dungeons of the castle. 567 00:32:22,841 --> 00:32:24,608 This place gives you the shivers. 568 00:32:24,710 --> 00:32:26,176 It's cold and damp. 569 00:32:26,278 --> 00:32:29,713 The 18th century was a strange, bizarre epoch 570 00:32:29,815 --> 00:32:31,048 And there was no better place 571 00:32:31,150 --> 00:32:33,717 Than the basement to hide your secrets. 572 00:32:36,422 --> 00:32:40,590 Narrator: The second owner of the castle was waclaw rzewuski, 573 00:32:40,693 --> 00:32:43,160 And dark legends surround him. 574 00:32:45,297 --> 00:32:47,497 Interpreter: His fiancée, maria rzewuska, 575 00:32:47,599 --> 00:32:51,601 A beautiful 16-year-old girl who constantly cheated on him. 576 00:32:51,704 --> 00:32:54,805 Rumor has it that driven by suspicion and jealousy, 577 00:32:54,907 --> 00:32:55,772 He murdered her. 578 00:32:55,908 --> 00:32:57,607 Her body has never been discovered. 579 00:32:57,710 --> 00:32:59,876 It's believed that her spirit never found peace 580 00:33:00,012 --> 00:33:02,913 And she is buried somewhere within these walls. 581 00:33:05,384 --> 00:33:07,184 Narrator: Maria's spirit however, 582 00:33:07,286 --> 00:33:11,121 Wouldn't be the only one to haunt the castle's corridors. 583 00:33:11,256 --> 00:33:14,725 For in time a different use would soon see 584 00:33:14,827 --> 00:33:16,860 Other lost souls join her. 585 00:33:19,898 --> 00:33:28,939 ♪ 586 00:33:29,041 --> 00:33:31,274 Narrator: In a remote area of ukraine, 587 00:33:31,377 --> 00:33:34,144 The dramatic ruins of pidhirtsi castle 588 00:33:34,246 --> 00:33:36,813 Are giving up their ghostly tales. 589 00:33:36,915 --> 00:33:39,649 Soon after the turn of 20th century, 590 00:33:39,752 --> 00:33:42,019 War had returned to the castle. 591 00:33:43,822 --> 00:33:46,556 So this era of prosperity and peace 592 00:33:46,658 --> 00:33:50,160 Which ensued after the partitions of poland, 593 00:33:50,262 --> 00:33:51,495 Ends, obviously, with world war I 594 00:33:51,597 --> 00:33:54,498 When the austrian army collides with the russian army. 595 00:33:56,201 --> 00:33:58,301 Narrator: And the castle soon found itself 596 00:33:58,404 --> 00:33:59,736 On the front lines. 597 00:33:59,838 --> 00:34:03,907 The first world war rages around this house. 598 00:34:04,009 --> 00:34:07,544 As the austrians retreat, the russians come in, 599 00:34:07,646 --> 00:34:10,580 They loot the place, they use it as a field hospital 600 00:34:10,682 --> 00:34:13,550 And it becomes a shell of its former self. 601 00:34:13,652 --> 00:34:15,852 Narrator: The fragile peace of the interwar years 602 00:34:15,954 --> 00:34:17,521 That followed were soon shattered 603 00:34:17,623 --> 00:34:20,457 By the outbreak of the second world war, 604 00:34:20,592 --> 00:34:26,163 And the rapid nazi advance through eastern europe. 605 00:34:26,265 --> 00:34:27,931 Not wanting to take any chances 606 00:34:28,033 --> 00:34:30,133 As the rampaging forces approached, 607 00:34:30,235 --> 00:34:33,703 The castle's owners removed the last of the trasures 608 00:34:33,806 --> 00:34:35,772 And fled to brazil. 609 00:34:35,874 --> 00:34:38,108 The germans overrun the place 610 00:34:38,210 --> 00:34:40,010 In their invasion of the soviet union, 611 00:34:40,112 --> 00:34:43,280 And they use it as a military hospital. 612 00:34:43,382 --> 00:34:47,584 Narrator: Yet, the castle soon changed hands once more 613 00:34:47,686 --> 00:34:51,254 As hitler's invasion plan failed. 614 00:34:51,356 --> 00:34:53,090 When the russians took control of this territory 615 00:34:53,192 --> 00:34:54,624 Late in world war two, 616 00:34:54,726 --> 00:34:57,894 They didn't care about the opulent past of the castle. 617 00:34:57,996 --> 00:35:01,898 They turned it into a hospital for tuberculosis patients. 618 00:35:02,000 --> 00:35:04,668 Interpreter: They divided all the halls into narrow corridors 619 00:35:04,770 --> 00:35:06,203 And tiny hospital wards, 620 00:35:06,305 --> 00:35:10,240 Which significantly changed the layout of the interior space. 621 00:35:12,878 --> 00:35:14,878 Narrator: As the second world war ended, 622 00:35:14,980 --> 00:35:18,348 Finally there was hope for peace and calm again at pidhirtsi. 623 00:35:18,450 --> 00:35:22,486 But in 1956, a finishing blow was struck. 624 00:35:22,588 --> 00:35:27,557 Wawro: And just when the palace had emerged from centuries of war 625 00:35:27,659 --> 00:35:31,094 And looked like it was going to reclaim its old luster, 626 00:35:31,196 --> 00:35:33,663 Somebody was working up in the roof with a blowtorch 627 00:35:33,765 --> 00:35:36,166 Doing some repairs, started a fire. 628 00:35:36,268 --> 00:35:39,336 So a lot of the damage to the palace that we can see 629 00:35:39,438 --> 00:35:40,871 With the naked eye today, 630 00:35:40,973 --> 00:35:43,173 You know stems from that big fire. 631 00:35:43,275 --> 00:35:46,510 This place that was so strong for so long, 632 00:35:46,645 --> 00:35:51,181 This fortress that existed for hundreds of years, 633 00:35:51,283 --> 00:35:52,949 Built to last, 634 00:35:53,051 --> 00:35:58,889 Was so absurdly destroyed by a simple house fire. 635 00:36:05,864 --> 00:36:09,399 Meigs: Think about how much history happened inside 636 00:36:09,501 --> 00:36:13,103 And around this castle over its long life. 637 00:36:13,205 --> 00:36:14,638 The different armies that passed through, 638 00:36:14,740 --> 00:36:17,908 The different languages that were spoken within its walls. 639 00:36:18,010 --> 00:36:21,711 That it's still standing at all is really quite miraculous. 640 00:36:21,813 --> 00:36:27,417 Narrator: And plans are now afoot for the next stage of its life. 641 00:36:27,553 --> 00:36:30,053 Interpreter: The actual goal is to rebuild this place 642 00:36:30,155 --> 00:36:33,123 And open a museum about pidhirtsi castle. 643 00:36:33,225 --> 00:36:35,992 We are hopeful that this castle will attract visitors 644 00:36:36,094 --> 00:36:37,661 And will have another chance to shine. 645 00:36:37,763 --> 00:36:39,196 ♪ 646 00:36:39,298 --> 00:36:40,430 In spite of everything 647 00:36:40,532 --> 00:36:43,767 That was thrown at this place for centuries. 648 00:36:43,869 --> 00:36:49,239 The walls are still there, the new roof is up, 649 00:36:49,341 --> 00:36:53,276 And maybe this place has got the staying power 650 00:36:53,378 --> 00:36:56,780 To continue to dominate this valley 651 00:36:56,882 --> 00:36:58,315 For a long time to come. 652 00:37:06,658 --> 00:37:11,027 Narrator: In the mountains of slovenia are a set of crumbling ruins 653 00:37:11,129 --> 00:37:13,997 Perched above a precipitous gorge. 654 00:37:18,103 --> 00:37:23,306 You might think of this at a distance as an old monastery. 655 00:37:23,408 --> 00:37:25,308 The thing that strikes you is it's a very calm, 656 00:37:25,410 --> 00:37:27,010 Tranquil place. 657 00:37:27,112 --> 00:37:29,346 Narrator: But scars on the mountainside hint 658 00:37:29,448 --> 00:37:33,083 That the serenity is not what it seems. 659 00:37:33,185 --> 00:37:35,318 Selwood: There's a whole series of stone walls 660 00:37:35,420 --> 00:37:36,653 Tunneling through the earth, 661 00:37:36,755 --> 00:37:40,090 And something about it doesn't feel quite right. 662 00:37:40,192 --> 00:37:43,293 Narrator: Structures scattered around this whole area point 663 00:37:43,395 --> 00:37:46,196 To a history of conflict. 664 00:37:46,298 --> 00:37:51,868 Corum: These are trench systems that somebody went to enormous effort 665 00:37:51,970 --> 00:37:58,475 To actually cut through rock and excavate trench systems. 666 00:37:58,577 --> 00:38:01,511 Auerbach: This building hasn't just decayed, 667 00:38:01,613 --> 00:38:04,180 Massive damage was inflicted upon it. 668 00:38:04,283 --> 00:38:08,551 Whole walls have been brought down. 669 00:38:08,654 --> 00:38:11,254 Narrator: And on the plains below this place, 670 00:38:11,356 --> 00:38:14,491 Half a million men were slaughtered. 671 00:38:14,593 --> 00:38:19,496 This site saw one of the most futile and deadly battles 672 00:38:19,598 --> 00:38:23,867 In one of history's most catastrophic conflicts. 673 00:38:23,969 --> 00:38:26,369 Narrator: What kind of savage war was waged 674 00:38:26,471 --> 00:38:31,608 In this chillingly beautiful landscape? 675 00:38:31,710 --> 00:38:35,812 Narrator: At the turn of the 20th century, the region this site is located 676 00:38:35,914 --> 00:38:37,647 Lay under austrian rule 677 00:38:37,749 --> 00:38:40,517 At the edge of the austro hungarian empire 678 00:38:40,619 --> 00:38:44,154 On the border with a newly unified Italy. 679 00:38:44,256 --> 00:38:47,590 Italy wanted the austro hungarian land 680 00:38:47,693 --> 00:38:50,026 Just across its border in the julian alps, 681 00:38:50,128 --> 00:38:54,631 In what was at the time, austro hungarian territory. 682 00:38:54,733 --> 00:38:56,533 Narrator: With the threat of war looming, 683 00:38:56,635 --> 00:39:01,871 In 1900 the austrians finished building this, fort hermann. 684 00:39:01,973 --> 00:39:05,875 The purpose of fort hermann is to mount heavy guns 685 00:39:05,977 --> 00:39:10,146 That will control the valley and the pass below. 686 00:39:10,248 --> 00:39:14,084 At every key pass and valley, 687 00:39:14,186 --> 00:39:16,553 There are military fortifications 688 00:39:16,655 --> 00:39:20,824 That are very, very tough to take. 689 00:39:20,926 --> 00:39:25,729 Narrator: Local historian and tour guide, vladimir lipovec is an expert 690 00:39:25,831 --> 00:39:27,931 In the austrian border defense system. 691 00:39:50,756 --> 00:39:54,391 Auerbach: Fort hermann really commanded this valley region 692 00:39:54,493 --> 00:39:56,326 With particularly good viewpoints 693 00:39:56,461 --> 00:39:59,362 And you can imagine this fort perched on this mountainside 694 00:39:59,464 --> 00:40:03,833 And glaring down at troops marching towards it. 695 00:40:03,935 --> 00:40:05,368 Selwood: There was an awareness 696 00:40:05,470 --> 00:40:07,437 That if something was going to happen, 697 00:40:07,539 --> 00:40:09,305 It would take place at the border, 698 00:40:09,408 --> 00:40:12,142 And that's why structures like this were needed. 699 00:40:13,578 --> 00:40:16,279 Narrator: Everything was designed in preparation 700 00:40:16,381 --> 00:40:18,081 For an italian attack. 701 00:40:33,732 --> 00:40:36,065 Narrator: But no amount of mountain defenses 702 00:40:36,168 --> 00:40:37,767 Would prevent the carnage 703 00:40:37,869 --> 00:40:40,336 That was about to play out in the valley below. 704 00:40:43,875 --> 00:40:49,746 ♪ 705 00:40:49,848 --> 00:40:52,482 Narrator: In the first decade of the 20th century, 706 00:40:52,584 --> 00:40:54,884 In the mountains of western slovenia, 707 00:40:54,986 --> 00:40:58,121 The austrian fort hermann was ready for action. 708 00:40:58,256 --> 00:41:01,758 Across the border, their italian rivals believed this land 709 00:41:01,860 --> 00:41:04,260 To be rightfully theirs. 710 00:41:04,362 --> 00:41:06,362 Selwood: When world war one started, 711 00:41:06,465 --> 00:41:09,199 Italy should have sided with germany and austria-hungary, 712 00:41:09,301 --> 00:41:11,601 But in fact Italy decided to be neutral. 713 00:41:11,736 --> 00:41:14,103 That meant that it was courted by both sides. 714 00:41:14,206 --> 00:41:16,739 And ultimately it was the allies who were able to offer 715 00:41:16,842 --> 00:41:20,810 Italy the greatest prospect of success. 716 00:41:20,912 --> 00:41:22,679 Narrator: The allies promised Italy 717 00:41:22,781 --> 00:41:25,482 The prize of these disputed lands, 718 00:41:25,584 --> 00:41:29,052 And in 1915 the italians joined the war 719 00:41:29,154 --> 00:41:32,555 Led by the notorious general luigi cardorna. 720 00:41:32,657 --> 00:41:34,157 Selwood: One commentator described him 721 00:41:34,259 --> 00:41:38,862 As an old roman cast in the big simple mold of antiquity. 722 00:41:38,964 --> 00:41:41,498 Corum: Cardorna as the italian chief of staff 723 00:41:41,600 --> 00:41:46,836 Is the picture of the officer who has a headquarters 724 00:41:46,938 --> 00:41:49,639 17 miles far behind the front, 725 00:41:49,741 --> 00:41:54,444 Almost out of hearing of any artillery fire. 726 00:41:54,546 --> 00:41:56,779 Selwood: He was an authoritarian, he was old fashioned, 727 00:41:56,848 --> 00:41:59,148 He was a strict disciplinarian. 728 00:41:59,251 --> 00:42:02,752 He ran the army like a dictator. 729 00:42:02,854 --> 00:42:06,022 Narrator: One of the first prizes in cardorna's sights 730 00:42:06,124 --> 00:42:07,757 Was fort hermann. 731 00:42:07,859 --> 00:42:09,392 In anticipation of this, 732 00:42:09,494 --> 00:42:13,530 The austrians reinforced their defenses on the plains below, 733 00:42:13,632 --> 00:42:17,567 An area known as the bovec basin. 734 00:42:17,669 --> 00:42:19,736 There's a whole series of stone walls 735 00:42:19,838 --> 00:42:21,838 Snaking across the mountainside, and as you look 736 00:42:21,940 --> 00:42:24,707 It becomes apparent these are trenches. 737 00:42:24,809 --> 00:42:29,579 Narrator: This is battery cello, a 650 foot long trench 738 00:42:29,681 --> 00:42:31,848 Connecting two artillery positions. 739 00:42:46,731 --> 00:42:49,799 The austrian defenses continued below ground 740 00:42:49,901 --> 00:42:52,302 Where shored up caves would act as bunkers. 741 00:43:07,252 --> 00:43:12,322 On may 29th, just six days after the italians joined the war, 742 00:43:12,424 --> 00:43:15,925 Luigi cardorna gave the order for his troops to attack. 743 00:43:43,254 --> 00:43:45,288 Fort hermann held its own, 744 00:43:45,423 --> 00:43:48,424 But luigi cardorna was far from done. 745 00:43:48,526 --> 00:43:54,063 He throws away large numbers of troops in pointless attacks 746 00:43:54,165 --> 00:43:56,099 And then criticizes his commanders 747 00:43:56,201 --> 00:43:59,369 Who have had their units decimated 748 00:43:59,471 --> 00:44:03,039 By austrian artillery and machine guns, 749 00:44:03,141 --> 00:44:05,675 And for minimal gains, 750 00:44:05,777 --> 00:44:10,046 Keeps doing the same thing over and over again. 751 00:44:10,148 --> 00:44:12,415 Narrator: The italian attack on fort hermann 752 00:44:12,517 --> 00:44:16,052 Heralded the start of cardorna's ill fated campaign 753 00:44:16,154 --> 00:44:18,755 Along the infamous isonzo front, 754 00:44:18,857 --> 00:44:21,090 Which ran south from fort hermann. 755 00:44:21,192 --> 00:44:24,460 Here some of the bloodiest battles of the first world war 756 00:44:24,562 --> 00:44:26,763 Were to be waged. 757 00:44:26,865 --> 00:44:31,701 Corum: This is a front of only 60 miles. 758 00:44:31,803 --> 00:44:36,939 On a 60 mile front, we have 300,000 dead italians 759 00:44:37,042 --> 00:44:40,209 In the course of the war, 200,000 dead austrians. 760 00:44:40,311 --> 00:44:47,650 This is one of the bloodiest battlefields anywhere. 761 00:44:47,752 --> 00:44:49,919 Selwood: This is the place where everything ended with 762 00:44:50,021 --> 00:44:52,288 Just one battle, but not before 763 00:44:52,390 --> 00:44:56,826 Half a million men had lost their lives. 764 00:44:56,928 --> 00:45:00,396 Narrator: Eventually, in 1917 cardorna's men 765 00:45:00,498 --> 00:45:02,699 Were nearing the bovec basin 766 00:45:02,801 --> 00:45:05,134 And the mountain town of caporetto. 767 00:45:28,359 --> 00:45:32,562 Narrator: Instead of defending, the austrians called in help 768 00:45:32,664 --> 00:45:35,865 From a specialized german military unit. 769 00:45:35,967 --> 00:45:38,234 Selwood: They proposed attacking the front 770 00:45:38,336 --> 00:45:40,203 With an unusually deadly plan. 771 00:45:40,305 --> 00:45:43,039 They had 894 metal tubes 772 00:45:43,141 --> 00:45:45,541 Which they implanted into the rock, 773 00:45:45,643 --> 00:45:48,444 Each one loaded with an electronic trigger. 774 00:45:50,148 --> 00:45:53,783 Narrator: The germans came armed with a controversial weapon. 775 00:46:12,470 --> 00:46:15,972 Auerbach: A cloud of poison gas enveloped the italian lines. 776 00:46:16,074 --> 00:46:17,607 These are terrible weapons. 777 00:46:17,709 --> 00:46:21,244 Phosgene gas causes blistering where it touches the skin. 778 00:46:21,346 --> 00:46:24,380 It causes lesions, and if you breathe it in, 779 00:46:24,482 --> 00:46:27,049 It burns the inside of your lungs. 780 00:46:35,293 --> 00:46:42,031 Corum: The italians taken by surprise break very rapidly 781 00:46:42,133 --> 00:46:49,705 And the entire front collapses in a two week period. 782 00:46:49,808 --> 00:46:52,809 Narrator: The italian loss at the battle of caporetto 783 00:46:52,911 --> 00:46:55,344 Is one of the most comprehensive defeats 784 00:46:55,446 --> 00:46:57,613 In italian military history. 785 00:46:57,715 --> 00:47:01,484 General luigi cardorna is finally sacked. 786 00:47:01,586 --> 00:47:03,653 Despite their victory at caporetto, 787 00:47:03,755 --> 00:47:06,422 The austrian-german alliance lost the war 788 00:47:06,524 --> 00:47:09,525 And the vast austro-hungarian empire collapsed. 789 00:47:09,627 --> 00:47:10,993 Corum: And at the end of the war, 790 00:47:11,095 --> 00:47:16,032 Italy gets this piece of land that they had wanted, 791 00:47:16,134 --> 00:47:17,767 But it's certainly not worth 792 00:47:17,869 --> 00:47:20,770 The price of several hundred thousand dead 793 00:47:20,872 --> 00:47:23,840 And the virtual ruination of the italian economy. 794 00:47:23,942 --> 00:47:29,512 ♪ 795 00:47:29,614 --> 00:47:33,950 Narrator: Today, the crumbling structures that litter the bovec basin 796 00:47:34,052 --> 00:47:37,119 Are all that's left of a bitter conflict. 797 00:47:38,056 --> 00:47:40,857 Selwood: These days, the military roads have found a new life 798 00:47:40,959 --> 00:47:44,093 As hiking trails, creating a network 799 00:47:44,195 --> 00:47:46,963 Between the alps and the adriatic. 800 00:47:47,065 --> 00:47:49,999 Auerbach: Now the region is known for the beauty 801 00:47:50,101 --> 00:47:51,968 Of the landscape and hiking. 802 00:47:52,070 --> 00:47:56,939 There's even a path of peace created that connects the forts 803 00:47:57,041 --> 00:47:58,407 And the old trench system. 73808

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