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Narrator: An epic terraced
construction
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00:00:04,672 --> 00:00:09,074
Once at the heart
of a mighty asian empire.
3
00:00:09,176 --> 00:00:12,144
You see this overgrown structure
kind of tumbling
4
00:00:12,279 --> 00:00:13,846
Down the mountain
and then reaching away
5
00:00:13,948 --> 00:00:16,749
From it
are these long pipes
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00:00:16,851 --> 00:00:21,186
Stretching out over the hills,
almost like tentacles.
7
00:00:21,288 --> 00:00:25,657
Narrator: A forbidding ukrainian
palace shrouded in intrigue.
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00:00:25,760 --> 00:00:27,092
Nusbacher: It's brooding.
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00:00:27,194 --> 00:00:32,364
Every one of those windows looks
like it ought to have a ghost
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00:00:32,466 --> 00:00:35,234
Hiding in the draperies.
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00:00:35,336 --> 00:00:36,869
Narrator: Mountainside ruins
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00:00:36,971 --> 00:00:40,372
Forged in one of humanity's
darkest hours.
13
00:00:40,474 --> 00:00:43,709
Auerbach:
Emerging from the tunnel,
you see a grey stone building.
14
00:00:43,811 --> 00:00:47,179
Grass and vegetation are
starting to climb up the walls
15
00:00:47,281 --> 00:00:49,248
And nature
is beginning to reclaim it.
16
00:00:51,619 --> 00:00:54,453
Narrator: And a massive facility
that powered america
17
00:00:54,555 --> 00:00:57,756
To the forefront
of aviation technology.
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00:00:57,858 --> 00:00:59,892
It's an eerily deserted town.
19
00:00:59,994 --> 00:01:01,627
Selwood: The houses
are all boarded up,
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00:01:01,729 --> 00:01:03,929
There's an old theater,
and the focal point
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00:01:04,031 --> 00:01:07,366
Is these three huge hangar
like structures.
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00:01:07,468 --> 00:01:13,172
♪
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00:01:13,274 --> 00:01:15,841
Narrator: Decaying relics,
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00:01:15,943 --> 00:01:19,078
Ruins of lost worlds,
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00:01:19,180 --> 00:01:21,780
Forged through years of toil,
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00:01:21,916 --> 00:01:24,550
Now haunted by the past,
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00:01:24,652 --> 00:01:27,619
Their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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00:01:27,721 --> 00:01:30,589
-- Captions by vitac --
www.Vitac.Com
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Captions paid for by
discovery communications
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00:01:33,694 --> 00:01:42,000
♪
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On the rugged coastline
of jinguashih in taiwan
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00:01:45,940 --> 00:01:48,273
Where mountains rise
out of the ocean,
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00:01:48,375 --> 00:01:53,045
An imposing structure breaks the
otherwise lush green vegetation.
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00:01:55,182 --> 00:01:57,449
Bell: There looks to be some
kind of fortress
35
00:01:57,551 --> 00:01:59,518
Built into the mountainside.
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00:01:59,620 --> 00:02:03,288
Fortress or castle,
it's not really very clear.
37
00:02:03,390 --> 00:02:04,957
Barratt: So as you look at it,
38
00:02:05,059 --> 00:02:07,426
It's hard to make out
what it's actually for.
39
00:02:07,528 --> 00:02:11,230
It's terraced
and it's magnificent
40
00:02:11,332 --> 00:02:14,066
In its monumental scale.
41
00:02:14,168 --> 00:02:17,769
Meigs: It looks like some old
fortress or palace
42
00:02:17,872 --> 00:02:18,937
Tumbling down the hillside,
43
00:02:19,039 --> 00:02:23,041
Or maybe some overgrown
tibetan monastery.
44
00:02:23,144 --> 00:02:27,246
Barratt: But it's not luxurious,
it's not ceremonial
45
00:02:27,348 --> 00:02:28,647
But nor is it domestic,
46
00:02:28,749 --> 00:02:33,485
There are no doors or windows
that are apparent.
47
00:02:33,587 --> 00:02:35,420
Narrator:
Clues as to its function
48
00:02:35,523 --> 00:02:38,056
May lie in the surrounding
infrastructure.
49
00:02:38,159 --> 00:02:41,460
Meigs: Reaching away from it
are these long pipes,
50
00:02:41,562 --> 00:02:43,262
Almost like
tentacles disappearing
51
00:02:43,364 --> 00:02:46,131
Over the nearby ridges.
52
00:02:46,233 --> 00:02:48,200
They're like veins
protruding out
53
00:02:48,302 --> 00:02:51,570
From this
main fortress structure.
54
00:02:51,672 --> 00:02:54,806
Narrator: On a hill overlooking
both the main complex
55
00:02:54,909 --> 00:02:59,178
And these giant pipelines is
something altogether different.
56
00:02:59,280 --> 00:03:01,980
Bell: It looks quite grand
and intricate
57
00:03:02,082 --> 00:03:04,116
Compared to the other structure.
58
00:03:04,218 --> 00:03:09,021
Maybe a sign of a more luxurious
period of time for this area.
59
00:03:09,123 --> 00:03:14,693
Or perhaps the influence
of a different culture or ruler.
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00:03:14,795 --> 00:03:17,062
Narrator:
What kind of facility was this
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00:03:17,164 --> 00:03:19,298
And why would
hundreds of americans
62
00:03:19,400 --> 00:03:21,433
Find themselves working here?
63
00:03:24,572 --> 00:03:31,777
For local resident, mr. Cheng,
this place is in his blood.
64
00:03:31,879 --> 00:03:35,847
Interpreter: I've been through
so much at this place.
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00:03:35,950 --> 00:03:39,051
I was born, educated,
worked here.
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00:03:41,188 --> 00:03:44,756
Even after I retired,
I'm still living here.
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00:03:49,430 --> 00:03:51,530
Narrator: Now in his mid 80s,
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00:03:51,632 --> 00:03:55,867
He remembers this facility
in full flow.
69
00:03:55,970 --> 00:03:57,869
Interpreter: I was involved
with an experiment
70
00:03:57,972 --> 00:04:00,038
With sulphides and copper.
71
00:04:03,244 --> 00:04:06,511
If the density of the sulphides
were too high,
72
00:04:06,614 --> 00:04:10,082
You weren't able to extract
the gold and copper from it.
73
00:04:13,287 --> 00:04:16,521
So we'd have to grind it
in order to extract them.
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00:04:19,059 --> 00:04:21,960
Narrator: This is the
shuinandong smelter,
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00:04:22,062 --> 00:04:26,331
Known locally as the remains
of the 13 levels.
76
00:04:26,433 --> 00:04:31,169
A processing plant for refining
and smelting copper and gold.
77
00:04:34,842 --> 00:04:38,176
Interpreter:
The tunnel is a transportation
system for mining.
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00:04:40,180 --> 00:04:42,614
The rocks are transported
out from here.
79
00:04:46,954 --> 00:04:49,254
This is tunnel six.
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00:04:49,356 --> 00:04:54,726
The miners used to work here
but there's no work anymore.
81
00:04:54,828 --> 00:04:57,529
It's dangerous,
so they shut it down.
82
00:05:00,334 --> 00:05:03,268
Narrator: Once the high grade
gold ore was extracted
83
00:05:03,370 --> 00:05:07,506
From beneath the mountains,
these tunnels and railway lines
84
00:05:07,608 --> 00:05:10,075
Took the rocks to the smelter
for processing.
85
00:05:10,177 --> 00:05:11,877
The way they'd process the ores,
86
00:05:11,979 --> 00:05:13,378
They would bring it in
at the top
87
00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:15,180
And there were a series
of processes
88
00:05:15,282 --> 00:05:17,382
And getting the ore
to be refined
89
00:05:17,484 --> 00:05:19,217
In a pure and purest state
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00:05:19,320 --> 00:05:22,321
As they worked their way
down to the bottom.
91
00:05:22,423 --> 00:05:26,224
Bell:
The reason it has these large
arches without any windows
92
00:05:26,327 --> 00:05:31,163
Is that's where they loaded the
rocks and the ore in and out.
93
00:05:31,265 --> 00:05:33,065
And the same goes
with the ceiling,
94
00:05:33,167 --> 00:05:35,200
It was all about efficiency.
95
00:05:35,302 --> 00:05:37,703
Barratt: The smelter is
a chemical process
96
00:05:37,805 --> 00:05:40,372
That involves
huge amount of heat
97
00:05:40,474 --> 00:05:42,641
And also a massive amount
of power
98
00:05:42,743 --> 00:05:47,979
To split the component parts
of the raw ore into pieces
99
00:05:48,082 --> 00:05:50,716
And it's done through
a process of reactions,
100
00:05:50,818 --> 00:05:53,552
With trying to separate
and oxidize out
101
00:05:53,654 --> 00:05:55,587
The metals that you want.
102
00:05:57,658 --> 00:06:00,692
Narrator: Yet none of the
valuable gold remained here.
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00:06:00,794 --> 00:06:03,962
When this compound
was constructed in the 1930s,
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00:06:04,064 --> 00:06:06,431
Taiwan wasn't part of china.
105
00:06:06,533 --> 00:06:10,702
At that time mr. Cheng's father
was working in brutal conditions
106
00:06:10,804 --> 00:06:13,638
Under the gaze
of a different overlord.
107
00:06:17,111 --> 00:06:20,479
The ornate details and kanji
writing around the site
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00:06:20,581 --> 00:06:22,514
Reveal their identity.
109
00:06:22,616 --> 00:06:25,517
The empire of japan.
110
00:06:25,619 --> 00:06:28,687
Meigs: Wherever the japanese
went they expected to stay.
111
00:06:28,789 --> 00:06:31,456
They thought they were building
a grand empire
112
00:06:31,558 --> 00:06:35,193
That would last forever,
and so they built not just
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00:06:35,295 --> 00:06:38,063
Factories and smelters
but shrines.
114
00:06:38,165 --> 00:06:40,065
Here in taiwan they built
the shinto shrine
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00:06:40,167 --> 00:06:41,800
To the mountain god.
116
00:06:43,771 --> 00:06:46,805
Narrator: Originally built
to bring peace and stability,
117
00:06:46,907 --> 00:06:50,776
The health of local workers
became secondary to gold,
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00:06:50,878 --> 00:06:53,578
As mr. Cheng's father
discovered.
119
00:06:56,383 --> 00:07:00,852
Interpreter: He worked
in the mines as a mine worker.
120
00:07:00,954 --> 00:07:03,021
He was digging in the fields.
121
00:07:05,325 --> 00:07:07,893
I was four years old
when he passed away.
122
00:07:07,995 --> 00:07:12,063
I was raised by my mother
and brother.
123
00:07:12,166 --> 00:07:14,900
Narrator: Japan was an empire
on the rise.
124
00:07:15,002 --> 00:07:17,602
Having emerged out
of an era of isolation,
125
00:07:17,704 --> 00:07:21,573
The country had entered a period
of rapid transformation
126
00:07:21,675 --> 00:07:26,978
And taiwan was incorporated into
the empire of japan in 1895.
127
00:07:27,080 --> 00:07:29,114
It was the start
of a chain reaction
128
00:07:29,216 --> 00:07:32,617
That would have devastating
consequences for the region
129
00:07:32,719 --> 00:07:36,555
And for many young americans.
130
00:07:36,657 --> 00:07:39,458
Taking over taiwan was one
of the first steps
131
00:07:39,560 --> 00:07:41,092
In japan's expansionism,
132
00:07:41,195 --> 00:07:44,029
Where they would ultimately
takeover much of asia
133
00:07:44,131 --> 00:07:48,233
And finally attack the u.S.
At pearl harbor.
134
00:07:48,335 --> 00:07:50,402
Narrator:
After taiwan came korea.
135
00:07:50,504 --> 00:07:52,938
Then they turned their gaze
back to northern china
136
00:07:53,040 --> 00:07:56,308
With the invasion of manchuria
in 1931.
137
00:07:56,410 --> 00:08:02,347
Meigs:
Japan really conducted itself
like great britain at its prime.
138
00:08:02,449 --> 00:08:05,817
They had a powerful navy,
they set up colonies,
139
00:08:05,919 --> 00:08:07,419
They took over territory,
140
00:08:07,521 --> 00:08:10,255
And wherever they went they
wanted to extract resources,
141
00:08:10,357 --> 00:08:13,325
They wanted
to accumulate wealth.
142
00:08:13,427 --> 00:08:16,194
Narrator: The taiwanese people
here in jinguashih
143
00:08:16,296 --> 00:08:20,165
Would enjoy
little of this wealth.
144
00:08:20,267 --> 00:08:24,603
Interpreter:
They exploited most of the gold
when it was under japanese rule.
145
00:08:24,705 --> 00:08:28,440
They sent all of it japan
for their national celebrations.
146
00:08:30,644 --> 00:08:36,548
Narrator:
The exploitation extended
into all aspects of life.
147
00:08:36,650 --> 00:08:38,783
Interpreter: Since we were ruled
by the japanese,
148
00:08:38,886 --> 00:08:42,087
We became second-class citizens.
149
00:08:42,189 --> 00:08:43,855
It became much tougher.
150
00:08:47,327 --> 00:08:49,628
Even with schools,
there were different schools
151
00:08:49,730 --> 00:08:53,265
For the japanese and the locals.
152
00:08:53,367 --> 00:08:55,000
We were segregated.
153
00:08:58,572 --> 00:09:02,974
Narrator:
By the time mr. Cheng arrived
here as a young man in 1943,
154
00:09:03,076 --> 00:09:05,310
The pacific war was raging.
155
00:09:05,412 --> 00:09:07,779
Japan's desire to dominate
the pacific
156
00:09:07,881 --> 00:09:11,783
Had brought them into
direct conflict with america,
157
00:09:11,885 --> 00:09:16,821
And that meant a new labor force
was arriving on the island.
158
00:09:16,924 --> 00:09:19,124
Bell: Prisoners of war
caught by the japanese
159
00:09:19,226 --> 00:09:21,159
Were sent to this mine,
160
00:09:21,228 --> 00:09:24,930
Now the biggest copper mine
in the japanese empire
161
00:09:25,032 --> 00:09:29,734
And they were predominantly
british and american soldiers.
162
00:09:29,836 --> 00:09:33,338
Narrator: In total, 1,100
allied prisoners of war
163
00:09:33,473 --> 00:09:34,873
Served time here.
164
00:09:34,975 --> 00:09:37,876
Many brought in on hell ships
from singapore
165
00:09:37,978 --> 00:09:39,311
And the philippines.
166
00:09:39,413 --> 00:09:43,214
Bell: Most were forced to work
here for almost three years
167
00:09:43,317 --> 00:09:45,250
And faced conditions as bad,
168
00:09:45,352 --> 00:09:49,521
If not worse than
on the railway of death in burma
169
00:09:49,623 --> 00:09:52,891
Made famous by movies
like "bridge on the river kwai."
170
00:09:52,993 --> 00:09:56,061
Narrator: Many died of disease,
and a prisoner of war
171
00:09:56,163 --> 00:10:01,733
Memorial erected here in 1997
pays homage to their memory.
172
00:10:05,305 --> 00:10:08,873
The japanese surrendered
and left in 1945,
173
00:10:08,976 --> 00:10:11,142
So who was behind
the mammoth pipelines
174
00:10:11,244 --> 00:10:13,311
That extend out of the facility?
175
00:10:17,484 --> 00:10:24,822
♪
176
00:10:24,891 --> 00:10:29,094
Narrator:
On the coast of taiwan,
a former gold and copper smelter
177
00:10:29,196 --> 00:10:33,732
Built by the japanese empire
tumbles down the mountainside.
178
00:10:33,834 --> 00:10:36,968
After the country's
restoration in 1945,
179
00:10:37,104 --> 00:10:41,106
The taiwan gold and copper
mining bureau was established.
180
00:10:41,241 --> 00:10:44,042
But it soon faced
new challenges.
181
00:10:44,144 --> 00:10:48,346
With gold deposits depleted,
the focus was on copper refining
182
00:10:48,448 --> 00:10:53,018
And then purification.
183
00:10:53,120 --> 00:10:56,755
Interpreter: They started
purification in 1965.
184
00:10:59,660 --> 00:11:03,061
There was a 65 meter
high chimney,
185
00:11:03,163 --> 00:11:06,197
But it was really close
to the factory.
186
00:11:06,299 --> 00:11:08,299
The sulfate levels were high.
187
00:11:11,538 --> 00:11:14,806
And the residents and workers
couldn't take it.
188
00:11:17,110 --> 00:11:20,278
Narrator: Safely disposing
of these toxic emissions
189
00:11:20,380 --> 00:11:23,314
Required a marvel
of engineering.
190
00:11:23,417 --> 00:11:27,352
Barratt:
What they ended up doing
was building a massive chimney
191
00:11:27,454 --> 00:11:29,921
Or flue system
to take the gases up
192
00:11:30,023 --> 00:11:31,656
And away out of the valley
193
00:11:31,758 --> 00:11:34,592
And over the ridge
of the mountain.
194
00:11:34,695 --> 00:11:37,195
Meigs: It's actually,
they say it's the longest
195
00:11:37,297 --> 00:11:42,667
Concrete pipeline
ventilation system in the world.
196
00:11:42,736 --> 00:11:45,270
Narrator: Despite this,
with dwindling profits
197
00:11:45,372 --> 00:11:48,339
And compensation claims
hanging over their heads,
198
00:11:48,442 --> 00:11:51,042
The company soon
shut down operations.
199
00:11:51,144 --> 00:11:58,450
♪
200
00:11:58,552 --> 00:12:02,587
The japanese shrine still looks
over this dramatic scene,
201
00:12:02,689 --> 00:12:06,758
A remnant of an empire that
emerged at an extraordinary pace
202
00:12:06,860 --> 00:12:10,662
And crumbled away even faster.
203
00:12:10,764 --> 00:12:14,532
Barratt: The ornate, well-built,
carefully-crafted shrine.
204
00:12:14,634 --> 00:12:18,503
Stands in great contrast
to the brutality of the smelter,
205
00:12:18,605 --> 00:12:21,740
But it shows exactly
how much the japanese
206
00:12:21,842 --> 00:12:23,475
And the local people valued
207
00:12:23,610 --> 00:12:26,778
The raw materials
buried under the earth here.
208
00:12:30,517 --> 00:12:32,417
Once under the grip
of imperial japan,
209
00:12:32,519 --> 00:12:35,687
Even today taiwan continues
to be at the heart
210
00:12:35,789 --> 00:12:38,923
Of complex regional politics.
211
00:12:39,025 --> 00:12:42,694
Some people here are
still fighting for independence,
212
00:12:42,796 --> 00:12:45,363
This time from china.
213
00:12:52,405 --> 00:12:55,573
Out in rural champagne county,
illinois
214
00:12:55,675 --> 00:12:58,943
Lie a group of massive
abandoned warehouses.
215
00:12:59,045 --> 00:13:00,745
But they're not alone.
216
00:13:06,520 --> 00:13:09,154
Mitchell: It's a huge area
with buildings
217
00:13:09,256 --> 00:13:11,422
That look
in fairly good condition.
218
00:13:11,525 --> 00:13:15,860
It looks sort of like its own
self-contained town.
219
00:13:15,962 --> 00:13:21,032
Corum: Fire station, warehouses,
housing, stores,
220
00:13:21,134 --> 00:13:24,936
It's all shut down,
everything's overgrown.
221
00:13:25,071 --> 00:13:29,374
Selwood:
The focal point is these three
huge hangar like structures.
222
00:13:29,476 --> 00:13:32,911
Quite clearly the hangars
tell you what this site was
223
00:13:33,013 --> 00:13:35,180
But yet when you look
at the other elements,
224
00:13:35,282 --> 00:13:38,316
There's something
else going on here.
225
00:13:38,418 --> 00:13:42,921
Narrator:
Clues inside suggest these
hangars weren't just for storage
226
00:13:43,023 --> 00:13:44,989
But for something
rather different.
227
00:13:45,091 --> 00:13:50,195
The large hangars give you the
impression that when this place
228
00:13:50,297 --> 00:13:55,066
Was operating it must have
been filled with machines,
229
00:13:55,168 --> 00:13:58,336
Aircraft, equipment and people.
230
00:13:58,438 --> 00:14:01,773
Something that really makes
it feel rather ghostly
231
00:14:01,908 --> 00:14:03,975
Is its vastness
and its emptiness,
232
00:14:04,077 --> 00:14:08,079
And a sense of something
having just gone away,
233
00:14:08,181 --> 00:14:12,016
Almost inexplicably.
234
00:14:12,118 --> 00:14:14,485
You have a sense that the answer
to this place
235
00:14:14,588 --> 00:14:15,653
Lies at the bottom
of the stairs,
236
00:14:15,755 --> 00:14:17,055
Here is where you're finally
going to understand
237
00:14:17,157 --> 00:14:18,356
What this is for.
238
00:14:18,458 --> 00:14:20,491
But in fact what you're
confronted with
239
00:14:20,594 --> 00:14:22,861
Is a lake of water,
it's entirely unpassable.
240
00:14:22,963 --> 00:14:25,930
You can go no further.
241
00:14:26,032 --> 00:14:29,167
Narrator: In its day, this place
was at the forefront
242
00:14:29,269 --> 00:14:31,269
Of technological change.
243
00:14:31,371 --> 00:14:32,737
But it was also at the heart
244
00:14:32,839 --> 00:14:36,274
Of a ground breaking
social transformation.
245
00:14:36,376 --> 00:14:39,077
The war department authorized
the formation
246
00:14:39,179 --> 00:14:41,145
Of the 99th pursuit squadron,
247
00:14:41,248 --> 00:14:44,315
Which was the first
all-black squadron.
248
00:14:44,417 --> 00:14:47,452
Narrator: This vast site would
become the birthplace
249
00:14:47,554 --> 00:14:49,921
Of an african american
air squadron
250
00:14:50,056 --> 00:14:52,857
Who went on
to become world renowned.
251
00:14:55,395 --> 00:14:58,830
The clue to the origins
of this site in rural illinois
252
00:14:58,932 --> 00:15:00,832
Are found outside.
253
00:15:00,934 --> 00:15:02,300
The air strip.
254
00:15:02,402 --> 00:15:06,504
The first one built here was
completed in the early 1900s.
255
00:15:06,606 --> 00:15:08,907
Aviation
in the early 20th century
256
00:15:09,009 --> 00:15:10,808
Was an incredibly exciting
new adventure.
257
00:15:10,911 --> 00:15:14,012
This was all about boundaries
and how to break them.
258
00:15:16,650 --> 00:15:20,151
John pratt worked at this site
for 22 years.
259
00:15:20,253 --> 00:15:22,086
I probably would have
retired here.
260
00:15:22,188 --> 00:15:23,955
I was that close to it.
261
00:15:24,057 --> 00:15:27,592
But the walk around now
is very painful.
262
00:15:27,694 --> 00:15:28,593
It's hard to see this.
263
00:15:28,695 --> 00:15:31,429
It was a beautiful installation.
264
00:15:31,531 --> 00:15:37,035
This place was vital to the
protection of the united states.
265
00:15:37,137 --> 00:15:39,237
At the time of the site's
inception,
266
00:15:39,339 --> 00:15:41,773
The u.S. Military
was facing a problem.
267
00:15:41,875 --> 00:15:45,410
Even though aviation
was really sort of born
268
00:15:45,512 --> 00:15:47,145
In the united states,
269
00:15:47,247 --> 00:15:48,746
The united states
was sort of slow
270
00:15:48,848 --> 00:15:52,317
To take advantage
of that ability.
271
00:15:52,419 --> 00:15:54,319
Selwood: The wright brothers
may have started it all,
272
00:15:54,421 --> 00:15:57,488
But by 1917
the americans had fallen behind
273
00:15:57,590 --> 00:15:59,757
In terms of aviation technology.
274
00:15:59,859 --> 00:16:04,696
So this place was specifically
created to remedy that.
275
00:16:04,798 --> 00:16:08,499
Corum: There was a vast
amount of money,
276
00:16:08,601 --> 00:16:14,272
Over $600 million appropriated
by the congress in 1917
277
00:16:14,374 --> 00:16:20,178
Solely for building up
u.S. Aviation infrastructure.
278
00:16:20,280 --> 00:16:23,247
Narrator: A suitable site
had to be chosen for the u.S.
279
00:16:23,350 --> 00:16:25,383
To develop their air power.
280
00:16:25,485 --> 00:16:29,587
It was an isolated situation,
it's flat lands out here
281
00:16:29,689 --> 00:16:31,856
And it was a good flying place,
282
00:16:31,958 --> 00:16:34,559
It was centrally located
in the united states.
283
00:16:37,430 --> 00:16:40,498
Narrator: But testing aircraft
was only the start.
284
00:16:40,600 --> 00:16:45,003
As the site soon became a vital
cog in the u.S. War machine
285
00:16:45,105 --> 00:16:48,406
And ultimately a training site
for operators
286
00:16:48,508 --> 00:16:52,076
Of one of the largest
nuclear weapons in the world.
287
00:16:55,281 --> 00:17:04,055
♪
288
00:17:04,157 --> 00:17:07,058
Narrator: During the 1930s,
air force pilots
289
00:17:07,160 --> 00:17:11,796
Were taking to the skies
above this site in illinois.
290
00:17:11,898 --> 00:17:16,968
But back on the ground,
pilots were not the focus.
291
00:17:17,070 --> 00:17:18,936
When you think of airplanes,
you think of pilots
292
00:17:19,039 --> 00:17:20,872
But actually that's only
a small part of the story.
293
00:17:20,974 --> 00:17:23,307
What it takes to keep
airplanes in the air
294
00:17:23,410 --> 00:17:27,845
Is a vast number of different
skills, ground crew, engineers.
295
00:17:27,947 --> 00:17:31,682
Mitchell: It's absolutely
critical that people are trained
296
00:17:31,785 --> 00:17:35,253
In various aspects
of maintaining the planes,
297
00:17:35,355 --> 00:17:37,255
And so
it's really about building
298
00:17:37,357 --> 00:17:41,225
And training a crew
in all aspects of maintenance.
299
00:17:44,330 --> 00:17:48,032
Narrator: This is the chanute
air force base.
300
00:17:48,134 --> 00:17:50,568
Chanute field,
as it was first known,
301
00:17:50,670 --> 00:17:52,403
Was used for technical training
302
00:17:52,505 --> 00:17:57,942
And to instruct cadets in
the rigors of flying warplanes.
303
00:17:58,044 --> 00:18:00,211
The first real challenge
for this place
304
00:18:00,313 --> 00:18:04,449
Came with the outbreak
of the second world war.
305
00:18:04,551 --> 00:18:07,518
Selwood:
Everything changed for the
united states with pearl harbor.
306
00:18:07,620 --> 00:18:10,088
After that attack,
america was on a war footing
307
00:18:10,223 --> 00:18:13,091
And knew it was about to engage
and so this place became
308
00:18:13,193 --> 00:18:16,894
Absolutely key
to the air effort.
309
00:18:16,996 --> 00:18:24,469
Corum:
The u.S. Army air corps expands
from perhaps 20,000 in 1939
310
00:18:24,571 --> 00:18:28,506
To several million
by 1943, 1944.
311
00:18:28,608 --> 00:18:33,511
Now this expansion requires
a training infrastructure
312
00:18:33,613 --> 00:18:35,279
That is enormous.
313
00:18:37,717 --> 00:18:40,351
Well, this place is huge.
314
00:18:40,453 --> 00:18:42,520
It's bigger even
when it's empty.
315
00:18:42,622 --> 00:18:44,889
There was all kinds of training
that went on in here
316
00:18:44,991 --> 00:18:48,860
And all kinds of activity
from wall to wall.
317
00:18:48,962 --> 00:18:52,063
There would be planes
and activity and classes
318
00:18:52,165 --> 00:18:55,032
Going on
all the way through here.
319
00:18:55,135 --> 00:18:57,034
Corum: Let's take a b17 bomber,
320
00:18:57,137 --> 00:19:00,438
A b17 bomber
carried a flight engineer
321
00:19:00,540 --> 00:19:04,642
Who would have been trained here
at chanute field.
322
00:19:04,744 --> 00:19:07,812
The b17 also carried
the radiomen,
323
00:19:07,914 --> 00:19:11,415
They had radio courses
and then radio repair courses,
324
00:19:11,518 --> 00:19:16,721
Radio specialist courses
here at chanute field.
325
00:19:16,823 --> 00:19:20,057
Pratt: There were four places
similar to this
326
00:19:20,160 --> 00:19:23,027
And they were filled
with activity everyday.
327
00:19:23,129 --> 00:19:26,564
There were students coming
and going all the time.
328
00:19:26,666 --> 00:19:29,534
Narrator:
To support these large-scale
training programs,
329
00:19:29,636 --> 00:19:32,236
A vast infrastructure emerged.
330
00:19:35,175 --> 00:19:38,142
It had its own food,
it had its own road department,
331
00:19:38,244 --> 00:19:42,813
It had its own water system,
it had its own heating plants.
332
00:19:42,916 --> 00:19:45,149
Chanute was almost
its own city.
333
00:19:45,251 --> 00:19:47,752
It was totally self-supporting.
334
00:19:49,689 --> 00:19:52,757
Narrator:
But it wasn't just the kind
of training taking place here
335
00:19:52,859 --> 00:19:54,592
That was groundbreaking.
336
00:19:54,694 --> 00:19:57,461
It was also
who was being trained.
337
00:19:57,564 --> 00:20:00,264
At the beginning
of world war two,
338
00:20:00,366 --> 00:20:05,536
The society in the united states
is thoroughly segregated.
339
00:20:05,638 --> 00:20:08,372
Narrator: In 1940,
the u.S. Census recorded
340
00:20:08,474 --> 00:20:11,642
Only 140 african american pilots
341
00:20:11,744 --> 00:20:13,277
Across the nation.
342
00:20:13,379 --> 00:20:14,879
But this would soon change.
343
00:20:14,981 --> 00:20:16,781
There were black airmen
that came here
344
00:20:16,883 --> 00:20:19,717
And then they were trained
as mechanics.
345
00:20:19,819 --> 00:20:22,787
But some of them had prior
flying experience,
346
00:20:22,889 --> 00:20:24,388
And they were doing
exceptionally well
347
00:20:24,490 --> 00:20:25,523
In the classes
348
00:20:25,625 --> 00:20:27,792
And so some of the people
in the base
349
00:20:27,894 --> 00:20:31,829
Decided that they would
make them into actual pilots.
350
00:20:33,900 --> 00:20:35,900
Narrator: Fighting a war
against the fascist
351
00:20:36,002 --> 00:20:38,102
And racist regime in europe,
352
00:20:38,204 --> 00:20:42,440
Suddenly the united states own
policies were under scrutiny.
353
00:20:42,542 --> 00:20:46,143
Mitchell: So it's a moment that
united states realizes that
354
00:20:46,246 --> 00:20:48,145
Having this squadron,
this 99th squadron,
355
00:20:48,248 --> 00:20:52,883
Training these black pilots,
is a way to indicate an opening,
356
00:20:52,986 --> 00:20:56,921
A commitment to democracy,
a commitment against racism.
357
00:20:57,056 --> 00:20:59,590
Unlike some of their peers
in the army for example,
358
00:20:59,692 --> 00:21:02,693
They're being trained equally,
and so this is a breakdown
359
00:21:02,795 --> 00:21:06,697
Of segregation
in the united states military.
360
00:21:06,799 --> 00:21:09,900
Narrator: That unit would evolve
into the tuskegee airmen,
361
00:21:10,003 --> 00:21:12,670
Who would become world famous.
362
00:21:12,739 --> 00:21:16,774
And so the 99th pursuit squadron
became the tuskegee airmen
363
00:21:16,876 --> 00:21:18,609
And they moved them
to tuskegee, alabama
364
00:21:18,711 --> 00:21:20,878
From here and became pilots.
365
00:21:20,980 --> 00:21:23,614
So they were trained initially
at chanute.
366
00:21:23,716 --> 00:21:25,049
The forming
of the tuskegee airmen,
367
00:21:25,151 --> 00:21:28,486
A very important part
of the chanute's history.
368
00:21:28,588 --> 00:21:30,788
Mitchell: These first black
military aviators
369
00:21:30,923 --> 00:21:32,990
Had a really
critical role to play.
370
00:21:33,126 --> 00:21:37,228
They flew over 15,000
individual sorties
371
00:21:37,330 --> 00:21:39,630
Over north africa and europe.
372
00:21:39,732 --> 00:21:42,933
So they really had a wide
ranging impact
373
00:21:43,036 --> 00:21:44,568
And sphere of influence.
374
00:21:44,671 --> 00:21:48,973
And for their skill and bravery
and commitment,
375
00:21:49,075 --> 00:21:53,210
They received 150
distinguished flying crosses,
376
00:21:53,313 --> 00:21:55,479
Which is a very
significant record.
377
00:21:57,216 --> 00:22:00,251
Well, chanute's favorite saying
was we were the pace setters.
378
00:22:00,353 --> 00:22:03,454
We were willing to stay up front
of everything that was going on.
379
00:22:03,556 --> 00:22:05,690
The people
that were trained here
380
00:22:05,792 --> 00:22:09,393
Were the top technicians
in their fields.
381
00:22:11,731 --> 00:22:14,498
Narrator: Whilst the work being
done here during world war two
382
00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:16,734
Was vital
to the u.S. War effort,
383
00:22:16,836 --> 00:22:19,403
Much of what remains lies empty,
384
00:22:19,505 --> 00:22:21,405
Yet the interior
of one hangar suggests
385
00:22:21,507 --> 00:22:23,074
The site still had
a crucial role
386
00:22:23,176 --> 00:22:26,377
To play later
in the nuclear age.
387
00:22:30,183 --> 00:22:39,290
♪
388
00:22:39,392 --> 00:22:41,992
Narrator: In illinois,
the chanute air force base
389
00:22:42,095 --> 00:22:43,561
Played an integral part
390
00:22:43,663 --> 00:22:46,564
In the u.S. Efforts
during world war two
391
00:22:46,666 --> 00:22:50,601
But just a few years later
a new threat was on the horizon.
392
00:22:50,703 --> 00:22:52,970
Corum: We're talking
about a very powerful,
393
00:22:53,072 --> 00:22:56,774
Aggressive, totalitarian
soviet union on one side
394
00:22:56,876 --> 00:23:00,211
With a vast number
of nuclear weapons.
395
00:23:00,313 --> 00:23:03,614
Mitchell:
There was a new type of aerial
warfare during the cold war,
396
00:23:03,716 --> 00:23:05,649
During this nuclear age
and chanute
397
00:23:05,752 --> 00:23:09,820
Was at the forefront of offering
this training in a situation
398
00:23:09,922 --> 00:23:13,824
Where mistakes
could cost american lives.
399
00:23:13,926 --> 00:23:16,827
Narrator: These new weapons
were titan intercontinental
400
00:23:16,929 --> 00:23:18,396
Ballistic missiles,
401
00:23:18,498 --> 00:23:20,865
Some of the largest
ever deployed.
402
00:23:20,967 --> 00:23:23,968
Selwood: But that spirit
and legacy of innovation
403
00:23:24,070 --> 00:23:26,737
And training and reliability,
404
00:23:26,839 --> 00:23:29,507
When the time came for
the titan missile program,
405
00:23:29,609 --> 00:23:33,177
Chanute was the obvious
place to host it.
406
00:23:33,279 --> 00:23:35,846
Pratt: Well, in the 1950s
it was decided
407
00:23:35,948 --> 00:23:40,384
That all seven different
missile programs
408
00:23:40,486 --> 00:23:44,889
Would move here to chanute and
the training was conducted here.
409
00:23:44,991 --> 00:23:46,857
This was the primary
training facility
410
00:23:46,959 --> 00:23:51,362
For especially missile launch
and missile maintenance.
411
00:23:51,464 --> 00:23:55,733
Narrator:
The titan missile housed a nine
megaton nuclear warhead,
412
00:23:55,835 --> 00:23:58,803
Making it america's single most
powerful nuclear weapon
413
00:23:58,905 --> 00:24:02,640
At the time, and at chanute
the titan missile silo
414
00:24:02,742 --> 00:24:06,377
Was housed inside a vast hangar
so missileers
415
00:24:06,479 --> 00:24:08,913
Could train in the latest
deployment techniques.
416
00:24:09,015 --> 00:24:12,049
They were fully prepared
to go out into the field
417
00:24:12,151 --> 00:24:17,555
And take the order
if necessary to fire a missile.
418
00:24:17,657 --> 00:24:20,257
Narrator: The crews trained
at chanute through the years
419
00:24:20,359 --> 00:24:23,961
Had to be vigilant and alert for
whatever threats were coming.
420
00:24:24,063 --> 00:24:31,936
Corum:
So chanute is one of the pillars
of the success of western power
421
00:24:32,038 --> 00:24:34,605
In the cold war
and we're free today
422
00:24:34,707 --> 00:24:39,477
Because chanute did a very
good job in training its people.
423
00:24:39,579 --> 00:24:41,011
Narrator:
Chanute provided training
424
00:24:41,113 --> 00:24:45,182
For thousands
of u.S. Air force airmen
425
00:24:45,284 --> 00:24:47,885
Until the government
downsized the armed forces
426
00:24:47,987 --> 00:24:50,254
And it was closed in 1993.
427
00:24:50,356 --> 00:24:54,492
♪
428
00:24:54,594 --> 00:24:57,661
Selwood: The slightly melancholy
aspect to places like this,
429
00:24:57,763 --> 00:25:01,799
The sad reality is that
whilst war is live,
430
00:25:01,901 --> 00:25:04,535
Places like this
are of a supreme importance.
431
00:25:04,637 --> 00:25:07,805
But when the war is over,
there's no real need for it.
432
00:25:07,907 --> 00:25:10,274
Their legacy is one
that is so powerful
433
00:25:10,376 --> 00:25:11,609
But so quickly forgotten.
434
00:25:14,814 --> 00:25:16,714
This was like a family,
there were a lot of people
435
00:25:16,816 --> 00:25:20,050
That just really
enjoyed working with each other,
436
00:25:20,152 --> 00:25:21,285
And they enjoyed their jobs,
437
00:25:21,387 --> 00:25:24,522
And they really enjoyed
what they were doing.
438
00:25:24,624 --> 00:25:27,157
It gave their life a meaning
to work here.
439
00:25:27,260 --> 00:25:30,895
And, at least for me,
that was a very important thing.
440
00:25:30,997 --> 00:25:34,031
Narrator:
Beyond its invaluable
contribution
441
00:25:34,133 --> 00:25:35,566
To the defense of a nation.
442
00:25:35,668 --> 00:25:38,235
Chanute air force base
is at the heart
443
00:25:38,337 --> 00:25:41,238
Of an important
and an enduring legacy.
444
00:25:42,375 --> 00:25:44,742
It's in the buildings of chanute
where integration
445
00:25:44,844 --> 00:25:46,243
Actually starts to occur,
446
00:25:46,345 --> 00:25:48,312
Meaningful integration,
in terms of training
447
00:25:48,414 --> 00:25:51,615
Of black pilots
with white pilots,
448
00:25:51,717 --> 00:25:53,717
Black crew
with white crew,
449
00:25:53,819 --> 00:25:57,321
And so there's a real moment
in terms of something happening
450
00:25:57,456 --> 00:26:00,925
Within the buildings,
an erosion of segregation.
451
00:26:01,027 --> 00:26:04,128
A segregation that was really
part and parcel
452
00:26:04,230 --> 00:26:06,230
Of the american fabric
at this time.
453
00:26:06,365 --> 00:26:15,839
♪
454
00:26:15,942 --> 00:26:18,809
Narrator: In a remote region
of western ukraine,
455
00:26:18,911 --> 00:26:23,314
Stands an imposing building
with an unusual charm.
456
00:26:28,187 --> 00:26:29,887
Meigs: You're out
in this rural area
457
00:26:29,989 --> 00:26:33,691
And here's a hulking,
massive castle.
458
00:26:33,793 --> 00:26:36,226
It looks almost like
an english manor house
459
00:26:36,329 --> 00:26:38,929
Out of a tim burton movie.
460
00:26:39,065 --> 00:26:40,798
In examining this palace,
461
00:26:40,900 --> 00:26:43,567
You know, you're struck
by its grandeur,
462
00:26:43,669 --> 00:26:46,604
It's munificence
and yet something really bad
463
00:26:46,706 --> 00:26:48,472
Has happened to it.
464
00:26:48,574 --> 00:26:49,840
Nusbacher: It's brooding.
465
00:26:49,942 --> 00:26:53,243
Every one of those windows
looks like it ought
466
00:26:53,346 --> 00:26:57,648
To have a ghost
hiding in the draperies.
467
00:26:57,750 --> 00:27:01,018
You can see how people
could find this kind of spooky
468
00:27:01,120 --> 00:27:03,520
And unsettling.
469
00:27:03,656 --> 00:27:05,522
Narrator: All across
this grand building
470
00:27:05,625 --> 00:27:09,393
Are confusing design aspects.
471
00:27:09,495 --> 00:27:12,029
Meigs: This has kind
of a split personality.
472
00:27:12,131 --> 00:27:16,734
On the one hand, it looks like a
sprawling english country estate
473
00:27:16,836 --> 00:27:19,470
With grand windows
and ballrooms.
474
00:27:19,572 --> 00:27:22,239
On the other hand,
it has a military quality,
475
00:27:22,341 --> 00:27:25,142
It's got a moat
and then placements for cannons.
476
00:27:27,179 --> 00:27:28,512
Narrator: Throughout its life,
477
00:27:28,614 --> 00:27:31,749
This building
went through so much turmoil,
478
00:27:31,851 --> 00:27:34,985
But what finally struck
this place down was a bizarre
479
00:27:35,087 --> 00:27:37,254
And unexpected twist
to its story.
480
00:27:37,356 --> 00:27:42,459
♪
481
00:27:42,561 --> 00:27:47,164
The foundations of this castle
are buried in the 17th century
482
00:27:47,266 --> 00:27:51,435
When this area was part of the
polish lithuanian commonwealth,
483
00:27:51,537 --> 00:27:55,372
A territory that stretched
over 400,000 square miles
484
00:27:55,474 --> 00:27:58,342
In eastern europe.
485
00:27:58,444 --> 00:27:59,777
Wawro: Palace was built by a guy
486
00:27:59,879 --> 00:28:04,214
Named stanislaw koniecpolski
who was a grand hetman,
487
00:28:04,316 --> 00:28:08,285
Meaning a senior advisor
to the king and a guy that,
488
00:28:08,387 --> 00:28:10,287
You know,
exercised a lot of power
489
00:28:10,389 --> 00:28:15,159
And wanted to build a house
that reflected his personal role
490
00:28:15,261 --> 00:28:19,363
In this polish
lithuanian commonwealth.
491
00:28:19,465 --> 00:28:22,232
Narrator: Historian, ivan dudych
has explored
492
00:28:22,334 --> 00:28:24,201
Every room in this building.
493
00:28:25,671 --> 00:28:27,438
Interpreter: Hidden behind
the fortress walls
494
00:28:27,540 --> 00:28:29,907
There is a real royal
luxury inside.
495
00:28:30,009 --> 00:28:32,609
There are bright grand rooms
that display wealth.
496
00:28:32,712 --> 00:28:35,345
There were balls
and thematic evenings here,
497
00:28:35,448 --> 00:28:37,414
Both theatrical and poetic.
498
00:28:37,516 --> 00:28:39,450
There were also musical
performances.
499
00:28:39,552 --> 00:28:43,153
Life raged within these walls.
500
00:28:43,255 --> 00:28:47,758
Narrator:
But this building doesn't only
feel like a luxurious palace,
501
00:28:47,860 --> 00:28:49,660
The parties came later,
502
00:28:49,762 --> 00:28:53,864
Something else was going
on here before.
503
00:28:53,966 --> 00:28:58,068
It's not exactly
a palace for a aristocrat
504
00:28:58,170 --> 00:28:59,837
To enjoy
all the pleasures of life
505
00:28:59,939 --> 00:29:01,939
Because it has
some real military features.
506
00:29:02,041 --> 00:29:04,007
It's up on this hill,
it has a moat around it,
507
00:29:04,110 --> 00:29:06,777
It has a couple of fortified
bastions on it
508
00:29:06,879 --> 00:29:09,646
To repel attackers.
509
00:29:09,749 --> 00:29:11,615
Nusbacher: When you look
at this place from the air,
510
00:29:11,717 --> 00:29:16,186
You see the long pointy corners
of what's called
511
00:29:16,288 --> 00:29:20,224
The truss italian,
the italian shape of fortresses.
512
00:29:20,326 --> 00:29:23,961
And this is designed
to repel cannon fire.
513
00:29:26,065 --> 00:29:28,398
Meigs: To the extent
that koniecpolski built
514
00:29:28,501 --> 00:29:31,702
A military structure,
one that could be defended,
515
00:29:31,804 --> 00:29:35,038
That turned out to be smart,
because in fact,
516
00:29:35,141 --> 00:29:39,543
This palace was the focal point
of a number of battles
517
00:29:39,645 --> 00:29:40,878
And attacks
over the years.
518
00:29:40,980 --> 00:29:43,714
♪
519
00:29:43,816 --> 00:29:46,784
Narrator: Reflecting the violent
times it was built in,
520
00:29:46,886 --> 00:29:50,053
The result was
a unique hybrid design.
521
00:29:50,156 --> 00:29:52,823
An opulent grandiosity
on the inside,
522
00:29:52,925 --> 00:29:55,359
But a brutally efficient
military structure
523
00:29:55,461 --> 00:29:57,327
On the outside.
524
00:29:57,429 --> 00:29:59,563
This is pidhirtsi castle.
525
00:29:59,665 --> 00:30:04,768
♪
526
00:30:04,870 --> 00:30:06,470
Interpreter: What were
the defensive advantages
527
00:30:06,572 --> 00:30:07,905
Of this type of castle?
528
00:30:08,007 --> 00:30:11,842
At close range it was easy to
fire effectively from the castle
529
00:30:11,944 --> 00:30:15,279
And the fact that it had
a bastion and pentagon towers
530
00:30:15,381 --> 00:30:17,114
Made it hard to breach.
531
00:30:19,185 --> 00:30:22,352
Nusbacher:
Here is a strategically
important valley.
532
00:30:22,454 --> 00:30:25,489
If you come charging up
this valley
533
00:30:25,591 --> 00:30:27,825
And if you can get up there
with impunity
534
00:30:27,927 --> 00:30:30,194
Then you can make inroads
535
00:30:30,296 --> 00:30:35,532
Against the polish
lithuanian commonwealth.
536
00:30:35,634 --> 00:30:39,169
Narrator:
Across the first 150 years
of its existence,
537
00:30:39,271 --> 00:30:41,972
The castle saw battle
after battle,
538
00:30:42,074 --> 00:30:44,775
But the warring
wouldn't last forever.
539
00:30:44,877 --> 00:30:48,478
Wawro:
It suddenly arrives in an era
of peace from the 1770s onward
540
00:30:48,581 --> 00:30:50,480
Because of the partitions
of poland.
541
00:30:50,583 --> 00:30:53,650
So now this is a golden age
for the castle
542
00:30:53,752 --> 00:30:56,887
Because now it's in a region
that's characterized by peace,
543
00:30:56,989 --> 00:31:00,357
It can develop
all of its economic assets.
544
00:31:00,459 --> 00:31:03,293
Nusbacher: As the
austro-hungarian empire
545
00:31:03,395 --> 00:31:06,630
Starts to exert control
over galicia,
546
00:31:06,732 --> 00:31:10,834
This part of the world,
it becomes a lot more peaceful
547
00:31:10,936 --> 00:31:14,404
And as austro hungarian empire
548
00:31:14,506 --> 00:31:20,110
Policies start to make
this place wealthy,
549
00:31:20,212 --> 00:31:26,850
This fortress becomes a jewel
of a country house.
550
00:31:26,952 --> 00:31:29,386
Narrator: Designed
with opulence in mind,
551
00:31:29,488 --> 00:31:34,458
Pidhirtsi castle now reverts
to its original purpose.
552
00:31:34,560 --> 00:31:38,128
Interpreter:
The second floor was occupied
by the royal rooms.
553
00:31:38,230 --> 00:31:41,365
There were several halls,
crimson hall, yellow hall
554
00:31:41,467 --> 00:31:43,300
And the european throne room.
555
00:31:43,402 --> 00:31:45,936
They all helped influence
the decorative style
556
00:31:46,038 --> 00:31:48,739
Of other palaces
and castles in the region.
557
00:31:48,841 --> 00:31:51,041
There were highly artistic
parquet floors,
558
00:31:51,143 --> 00:31:52,442
Marble window sills
559
00:31:52,544 --> 00:31:56,713
And all the walls were covered
with precious tapestries.
560
00:31:56,815 --> 00:32:01,418
Nusbacher: This castle becomes
a place of ostentation.
561
00:32:01,520 --> 00:32:06,423
It becomes a place
to show off wealth.
562
00:32:06,525 --> 00:32:08,458
But for all its glamour,
563
00:32:08,560 --> 00:32:12,629
There was something troubling
lingering in the background.
564
00:32:12,731 --> 00:32:17,067
A gruesome tale that still
haunts the castle's empty rooms
565
00:32:17,169 --> 00:32:19,770
And dark corridors.
566
00:32:19,872 --> 00:32:22,739
Interpreter:
We're currently standing
in the dungeons of the castle.
567
00:32:22,841 --> 00:32:24,608
This place
gives you the shivers.
568
00:32:24,710 --> 00:32:26,176
It's cold and damp.
569
00:32:26,278 --> 00:32:29,713
The 18th century was a strange,
bizarre epoch
570
00:32:29,815 --> 00:32:31,048
And there was no better place
571
00:32:31,150 --> 00:32:33,717
Than the basement
to hide your secrets.
572
00:32:36,422 --> 00:32:40,590
Narrator:
The second owner of the castle
was waclaw rzewuski,
573
00:32:40,693 --> 00:32:43,160
And dark legends surround him.
574
00:32:45,297 --> 00:32:47,497
Interpreter: His fiancée,
maria rzewuska,
575
00:32:47,599 --> 00:32:51,601
A beautiful 16-year-old girl
who constantly cheated on him.
576
00:32:51,704 --> 00:32:54,805
Rumor has it that driven
by suspicion and jealousy,
577
00:32:54,907 --> 00:32:55,772
He murdered her.
578
00:32:55,908 --> 00:32:57,607
Her body has never
been discovered.
579
00:32:57,710 --> 00:32:59,876
It's believed that her spirit
never found peace
580
00:33:00,012 --> 00:33:02,913
And she is buried
somewhere within these walls.
581
00:33:05,384 --> 00:33:07,184
Narrator:
Maria's spirit however,
582
00:33:07,286 --> 00:33:11,121
Wouldn't be the only one
to haunt the castle's corridors.
583
00:33:11,256 --> 00:33:14,725
For in time a different use
would soon see
584
00:33:14,827 --> 00:33:16,860
Other lost souls join her.
585
00:33:19,898 --> 00:33:28,939
♪
586
00:33:29,041 --> 00:33:31,274
Narrator:
In a remote area of ukraine,
587
00:33:31,377 --> 00:33:34,144
The dramatic ruins
of pidhirtsi castle
588
00:33:34,246 --> 00:33:36,813
Are giving up
their ghostly tales.
589
00:33:36,915 --> 00:33:39,649
Soon after the turn of
20th century,
590
00:33:39,752 --> 00:33:42,019
War had returned to the castle.
591
00:33:43,822 --> 00:33:46,556
So this era
of prosperity and peace
592
00:33:46,658 --> 00:33:50,160
Which ensued after
the partitions of poland,
593
00:33:50,262 --> 00:33:51,495
Ends, obviously,
with world war I
594
00:33:51,597 --> 00:33:54,498
When the austrian army
collides with the russian army.
595
00:33:56,201 --> 00:33:58,301
Narrator: And the castle
soon found itself
596
00:33:58,404 --> 00:33:59,736
On the front lines.
597
00:33:59,838 --> 00:34:03,907
The first world war
rages around this house.
598
00:34:04,009 --> 00:34:07,544
As the austrians retreat,
the russians come in,
599
00:34:07,646 --> 00:34:10,580
They loot the place,
they use it as a field hospital
600
00:34:10,682 --> 00:34:13,550
And it becomes a shell
of its former self.
601
00:34:13,652 --> 00:34:15,852
Narrator: The fragile peace
of the interwar years
602
00:34:15,954 --> 00:34:17,521
That followed
were soon shattered
603
00:34:17,623 --> 00:34:20,457
By the outbreak
of the second world war,
604
00:34:20,592 --> 00:34:26,163
And the rapid nazi advance
through eastern europe.
605
00:34:26,265 --> 00:34:27,931
Not wanting to take any chances
606
00:34:28,033 --> 00:34:30,133
As the rampaging forces
approached,
607
00:34:30,235 --> 00:34:33,703
The castle's owners
removed the last of the trasures
608
00:34:33,806 --> 00:34:35,772
And fled to brazil.
609
00:34:35,874 --> 00:34:38,108
The germans overrun the place
610
00:34:38,210 --> 00:34:40,010
In their invasion
of the soviet union,
611
00:34:40,112 --> 00:34:43,280
And they use it
as a military hospital.
612
00:34:43,382 --> 00:34:47,584
Narrator: Yet, the castle
soon changed hands once more
613
00:34:47,686 --> 00:34:51,254
As hitler's invasion plan
failed.
614
00:34:51,356 --> 00:34:53,090
When the russians took control
of this territory
615
00:34:53,192 --> 00:34:54,624
Late in world war two,
616
00:34:54,726 --> 00:34:57,894
They didn't care about
the opulent past of the castle.
617
00:34:57,996 --> 00:35:01,898
They turned it into a hospital
for tuberculosis patients.
618
00:35:02,000 --> 00:35:04,668
Interpreter:
They divided all the halls
into narrow corridors
619
00:35:04,770 --> 00:35:06,203
And tiny hospital wards,
620
00:35:06,305 --> 00:35:10,240
Which significantly changed the
layout of the interior space.
621
00:35:12,878 --> 00:35:14,878
Narrator:
As the second world war ended,
622
00:35:14,980 --> 00:35:18,348
Finally there was hope for peace
and calm again at pidhirtsi.
623
00:35:18,450 --> 00:35:22,486
But in 1956,
a finishing blow was struck.
624
00:35:22,588 --> 00:35:27,557
Wawro:
And just when the palace had
emerged from centuries of war
625
00:35:27,659 --> 00:35:31,094
And looked like it was going
to reclaim its old luster,
626
00:35:31,196 --> 00:35:33,663
Somebody was working up
in the roof with a blowtorch
627
00:35:33,765 --> 00:35:36,166
Doing some repairs,
started a fire.
628
00:35:36,268 --> 00:35:39,336
So a lot of the damage
to the palace that we can see
629
00:35:39,438 --> 00:35:40,871
With the naked eye today,
630
00:35:40,973 --> 00:35:43,173
You know stems
from that big fire.
631
00:35:43,275 --> 00:35:46,510
This place that was so strong
for so long,
632
00:35:46,645 --> 00:35:51,181
This fortress that existed
for hundreds of years,
633
00:35:51,283 --> 00:35:52,949
Built to last,
634
00:35:53,051 --> 00:35:58,889
Was so absurdly destroyed
by a simple house fire.
635
00:36:05,864 --> 00:36:09,399
Meigs: Think about how much
history happened inside
636
00:36:09,501 --> 00:36:13,103
And around this castle
over its long life.
637
00:36:13,205 --> 00:36:14,638
The different armies
that passed through,
638
00:36:14,740 --> 00:36:17,908
The different languages that
were spoken within its walls.
639
00:36:18,010 --> 00:36:21,711
That it's still standing at all
is really quite miraculous.
640
00:36:21,813 --> 00:36:27,417
Narrator:
And plans are now afoot for
the next stage of its life.
641
00:36:27,553 --> 00:36:30,053
Interpreter: The actual goal
is to rebuild this place
642
00:36:30,155 --> 00:36:33,123
And open a museum
about pidhirtsi castle.
643
00:36:33,225 --> 00:36:35,992
We are hopeful that this castle
will attract visitors
644
00:36:36,094 --> 00:36:37,661
And will have
another chance to shine.
645
00:36:37,763 --> 00:36:39,196
♪
646
00:36:39,298 --> 00:36:40,430
In spite of everything
647
00:36:40,532 --> 00:36:43,767
That was thrown at this place
for centuries.
648
00:36:43,869 --> 00:36:49,239
The walls are still there,
the new roof is up,
649
00:36:49,341 --> 00:36:53,276
And maybe this place
has got the staying power
650
00:36:53,378 --> 00:36:56,780
To continue
to dominate this valley
651
00:36:56,882 --> 00:36:58,315
For a long time to come.
652
00:37:06,658 --> 00:37:11,027
Narrator:
In the mountains of slovenia
are a set of crumbling ruins
653
00:37:11,129 --> 00:37:13,997
Perched above
a precipitous gorge.
654
00:37:18,103 --> 00:37:23,306
You might think of this at a
distance as an old monastery.
655
00:37:23,408 --> 00:37:25,308
The thing that strikes you
is it's a very calm,
656
00:37:25,410 --> 00:37:27,010
Tranquil place.
657
00:37:27,112 --> 00:37:29,346
Narrator: But scars
on the mountainside hint
658
00:37:29,448 --> 00:37:33,083
That the serenity
is not what it seems.
659
00:37:33,185 --> 00:37:35,318
Selwood: There's a whole series
of stone walls
660
00:37:35,420 --> 00:37:36,653
Tunneling through the earth,
661
00:37:36,755 --> 00:37:40,090
And something about it
doesn't feel quite right.
662
00:37:40,192 --> 00:37:43,293
Narrator: Structures scattered
around this whole area point
663
00:37:43,395 --> 00:37:46,196
To a history of conflict.
664
00:37:46,298 --> 00:37:51,868
Corum:
These are trench systems that
somebody went to enormous effort
665
00:37:51,970 --> 00:37:58,475
To actually cut through rock
and excavate trench systems.
666
00:37:58,577 --> 00:38:01,511
Auerbach: This building
hasn't just decayed,
667
00:38:01,613 --> 00:38:04,180
Massive damage
was inflicted upon it.
668
00:38:04,283 --> 00:38:08,551
Whole walls have been
brought down.
669
00:38:08,654 --> 00:38:11,254
Narrator: And on the plains
below this place,
670
00:38:11,356 --> 00:38:14,491
Half a million men
were slaughtered.
671
00:38:14,593 --> 00:38:19,496
This site saw one of the most
futile and deadly battles
672
00:38:19,598 --> 00:38:23,867
In one of history's
most catastrophic conflicts.
673
00:38:23,969 --> 00:38:26,369
Narrator: What kind
of savage war was waged
674
00:38:26,471 --> 00:38:31,608
In this chillingly
beautiful landscape?
675
00:38:31,710 --> 00:38:35,812
Narrator:
At the turn of the 20th century,
the region this site is located
676
00:38:35,914 --> 00:38:37,647
Lay under austrian rule
677
00:38:37,749 --> 00:38:40,517
At the edge
of the austro hungarian empire
678
00:38:40,619 --> 00:38:44,154
On the border
with a newly unified Italy.
679
00:38:44,256 --> 00:38:47,590
Italy wanted the austro
hungarian land
680
00:38:47,693 --> 00:38:50,026
Just across its border
in the julian alps,
681
00:38:50,128 --> 00:38:54,631
In what was at the time,
austro hungarian territory.
682
00:38:54,733 --> 00:38:56,533
Narrator:
With the threat of war looming,
683
00:38:56,635 --> 00:39:01,871
In 1900 the austrians finished
building this, fort hermann.
684
00:39:01,973 --> 00:39:05,875
The purpose of fort hermann
is to mount heavy guns
685
00:39:05,977 --> 00:39:10,146
That will control the valley
and the pass below.
686
00:39:10,248 --> 00:39:14,084
At every key pass and valley,
687
00:39:14,186 --> 00:39:16,553
There are
military fortifications
688
00:39:16,655 --> 00:39:20,824
That are very,
very tough to take.
689
00:39:20,926 --> 00:39:25,729
Narrator:
Local historian and tour guide,
vladimir lipovec is an expert
690
00:39:25,831 --> 00:39:27,931
In the austrian border
defense system.
691
00:39:50,756 --> 00:39:54,391
Auerbach: Fort hermann really
commanded this valley region
692
00:39:54,493 --> 00:39:56,326
With particularly
good viewpoints
693
00:39:56,461 --> 00:39:59,362
And you can imagine this fort
perched on this mountainside
694
00:39:59,464 --> 00:40:03,833
And glaring down at troops
marching towards it.
695
00:40:03,935 --> 00:40:05,368
Selwood: There was an awareness
696
00:40:05,470 --> 00:40:07,437
That if something
was going to happen,
697
00:40:07,539 --> 00:40:09,305
It would take place
at the border,
698
00:40:09,408 --> 00:40:12,142
And that's why structures
like this were needed.
699
00:40:13,578 --> 00:40:16,279
Narrator: Everything was
designed in preparation
700
00:40:16,381 --> 00:40:18,081
For an italian attack.
701
00:40:33,732 --> 00:40:36,065
Narrator: But no amount
of mountain defenses
702
00:40:36,168 --> 00:40:37,767
Would prevent the carnage
703
00:40:37,869 --> 00:40:40,336
That was about to play out
in the valley below.
704
00:40:43,875 --> 00:40:49,746
♪
705
00:40:49,848 --> 00:40:52,482
Narrator: In the first decade
of the 20th century,
706
00:40:52,584 --> 00:40:54,884
In the mountains
of western slovenia,
707
00:40:54,986 --> 00:40:58,121
The austrian fort hermann
was ready for action.
708
00:40:58,256 --> 00:41:01,758
Across the border, their italian
rivals believed this land
709
00:41:01,860 --> 00:41:04,260
To be rightfully theirs.
710
00:41:04,362 --> 00:41:06,362
Selwood:
When world war one started,
711
00:41:06,465 --> 00:41:09,199
Italy should have sided with
germany and austria-hungary,
712
00:41:09,301 --> 00:41:11,601
But in fact
Italy decided to be neutral.
713
00:41:11,736 --> 00:41:14,103
That meant that it was courted
by both sides.
714
00:41:14,206 --> 00:41:16,739
And ultimately it was the allies
who were able to offer
715
00:41:16,842 --> 00:41:20,810
Italy the greatest prospect
of success.
716
00:41:20,912 --> 00:41:22,679
Narrator:
The allies promised Italy
717
00:41:22,781 --> 00:41:25,482
The prize
of these disputed lands,
718
00:41:25,584 --> 00:41:29,052
And in 1915
the italians joined the war
719
00:41:29,154 --> 00:41:32,555
Led by the notorious
general luigi cardorna.
720
00:41:32,657 --> 00:41:34,157
Selwood: One commentator
described him
721
00:41:34,259 --> 00:41:38,862
As an old roman cast in the big
simple mold of antiquity.
722
00:41:38,964 --> 00:41:41,498
Corum: Cardorna as the italian
chief of staff
723
00:41:41,600 --> 00:41:46,836
Is the picture of the officer
who has a headquarters
724
00:41:46,938 --> 00:41:49,639
17 miles far behind the front,
725
00:41:49,741 --> 00:41:54,444
Almost out of hearing
of any artillery fire.
726
00:41:54,546 --> 00:41:56,779
Selwood:
He was an authoritarian,
he was old fashioned,
727
00:41:56,848 --> 00:41:59,148
He was a strict disciplinarian.
728
00:41:59,251 --> 00:42:02,752
He ran the army like a dictator.
729
00:42:02,854 --> 00:42:06,022
Narrator: One of the first
prizes in cardorna's sights
730
00:42:06,124 --> 00:42:07,757
Was fort hermann.
731
00:42:07,859 --> 00:42:09,392
In anticipation of this,
732
00:42:09,494 --> 00:42:13,530
The austrians reinforced their
defenses on the plains below,
733
00:42:13,632 --> 00:42:17,567
An area known
as the bovec basin.
734
00:42:17,669 --> 00:42:19,736
There's a whole series
of stone walls
735
00:42:19,838 --> 00:42:21,838
Snaking across the mountainside,
and as you look
736
00:42:21,940 --> 00:42:24,707
It becomes apparent
these are trenches.
737
00:42:24,809 --> 00:42:29,579
Narrator: This is battery cello,
a 650 foot long trench
738
00:42:29,681 --> 00:42:31,848
Connecting
two artillery positions.
739
00:42:46,731 --> 00:42:49,799
The austrian defenses
continued below ground
740
00:42:49,901 --> 00:42:52,302
Where shored up caves
would act as bunkers.
741
00:43:07,252 --> 00:43:12,322
On may 29th, just six days after
the italians joined the war,
742
00:43:12,424 --> 00:43:15,925
Luigi cardorna gave the order
for his troops to attack.
743
00:43:43,254 --> 00:43:45,288
Fort hermann held its own,
744
00:43:45,423 --> 00:43:48,424
But luigi cardorna
was far from done.
745
00:43:48,526 --> 00:43:54,063
He throws away large numbers
of troops in pointless attacks
746
00:43:54,165 --> 00:43:56,099
And then criticizes
his commanders
747
00:43:56,201 --> 00:43:59,369
Who have had their units
decimated
748
00:43:59,471 --> 00:44:03,039
By austrian artillery
and machine guns,
749
00:44:03,141 --> 00:44:05,675
And for minimal gains,
750
00:44:05,777 --> 00:44:10,046
Keeps doing the same thing
over and over again.
751
00:44:10,148 --> 00:44:12,415
Narrator: The italian attack
on fort hermann
752
00:44:12,517 --> 00:44:16,052
Heralded the start of cardorna's
ill fated campaign
753
00:44:16,154 --> 00:44:18,755
Along the infamous isonzo front,
754
00:44:18,857 --> 00:44:21,090
Which ran south from
fort hermann.
755
00:44:21,192 --> 00:44:24,460
Here some of the bloodiest
battles of the first world war
756
00:44:24,562 --> 00:44:26,763
Were to be waged.
757
00:44:26,865 --> 00:44:31,701
Corum: This is a front
of only 60 miles.
758
00:44:31,803 --> 00:44:36,939
On a 60 mile front,
we have 300,000 dead italians
759
00:44:37,042 --> 00:44:40,209
In the course of the war,
200,000 dead austrians.
760
00:44:40,311 --> 00:44:47,650
This is one of the bloodiest
battlefields anywhere.
761
00:44:47,752 --> 00:44:49,919
Selwood: This is the place where
everything ended with
762
00:44:50,021 --> 00:44:52,288
Just one battle,
but not before
763
00:44:52,390 --> 00:44:56,826
Half a million men
had lost their lives.
764
00:44:56,928 --> 00:45:00,396
Narrator: Eventually,
in 1917 cardorna's men
765
00:45:00,498 --> 00:45:02,699
Were nearing the bovec basin
766
00:45:02,801 --> 00:45:05,134
And the mountain town
of caporetto.
767
00:45:28,359 --> 00:45:32,562
Narrator: Instead of defending,
the austrians called in help
768
00:45:32,664 --> 00:45:35,865
From a specialized german
military unit.
769
00:45:35,967 --> 00:45:38,234
Selwood: They proposed
attacking the front
770
00:45:38,336 --> 00:45:40,203
With an unusually deadly plan.
771
00:45:40,305 --> 00:45:43,039
They had 894 metal tubes
772
00:45:43,141 --> 00:45:45,541
Which they implanted
into the rock,
773
00:45:45,643 --> 00:45:48,444
Each one loaded
with an electronic trigger.
774
00:45:50,148 --> 00:45:53,783
Narrator: The germans came armed
with a controversial weapon.
775
00:46:12,470 --> 00:46:15,972
Auerbach: A cloud of poison gas
enveloped the italian lines.
776
00:46:16,074 --> 00:46:17,607
These are terrible weapons.
777
00:46:17,709 --> 00:46:21,244
Phosgene gas causes blistering
where it touches the skin.
778
00:46:21,346 --> 00:46:24,380
It causes lesions,
and if you breathe it in,
779
00:46:24,482 --> 00:46:27,049
It burns
the inside of your lungs.
780
00:46:35,293 --> 00:46:42,031
Corum: The italians taken by
surprise break very rapidly
781
00:46:42,133 --> 00:46:49,705
And the entire front
collapses in a two week period.
782
00:46:49,808 --> 00:46:52,809
Narrator: The italian loss
at the battle of caporetto
783
00:46:52,911 --> 00:46:55,344
Is one of the most
comprehensive defeats
784
00:46:55,446 --> 00:46:57,613
In italian military history.
785
00:46:57,715 --> 00:47:01,484
General luigi cardorna
is finally sacked.
786
00:47:01,586 --> 00:47:03,653
Despite their victory
at caporetto,
787
00:47:03,755 --> 00:47:06,422
The austrian-german alliance
lost the war
788
00:47:06,524 --> 00:47:09,525
And the vast austro-hungarian
empire collapsed.
789
00:47:09,627 --> 00:47:10,993
Corum:
And at the end of the war,
790
00:47:11,095 --> 00:47:16,032
Italy gets this piece of land
that they had wanted,
791
00:47:16,134 --> 00:47:17,767
But it's certainly not worth
792
00:47:17,869 --> 00:47:20,770
The price of several hundred
thousand dead
793
00:47:20,872 --> 00:47:23,840
And the virtual ruination
of the italian economy.
794
00:47:23,942 --> 00:47:29,512
♪
795
00:47:29,614 --> 00:47:33,950
Narrator:
Today, the crumbling structures
that litter the bovec basin
796
00:47:34,052 --> 00:47:37,119
Are all that's left
of a bitter conflict.
797
00:47:38,056 --> 00:47:40,857
Selwood:
These days, the military roads
have found a new life
798
00:47:40,959 --> 00:47:44,093
As hiking trails,
creating a network
799
00:47:44,195 --> 00:47:46,963
Between the alps
and the adriatic.
800
00:47:47,065 --> 00:47:49,999
Auerbach: Now the region
is known for the beauty
801
00:47:50,101 --> 00:47:51,968
Of the landscape and hiking.
802
00:47:52,070 --> 00:47:56,939
There's even a path of peace
created that connects the forts
803
00:47:57,041 --> 00:47:58,407
And the old trench system.
73808
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