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of the end of our story.
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The final chapter of a river that has run its course.
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They walk as if to the end of the world on a journey to nowhere.
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Some go in search of the water that is always just out of reach.
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Others follow the searchers, themselves expelled from paradise,
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banished to the far fringes of the great river
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like phantoms wandering aimlessly in the inferno.
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It is a place of nomads, hardy survivors, exiled hunters of illusions.
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This ancient land is where the water turns to salt,
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the air burns on the inhale, and everything seems to wait to exhale.
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What little water is left is as dangerous as it is a salvation --
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because it is a distraction.
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A place where someone's mistake is someone else's lifeline.
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A mistaken burst of energy can change your destiny.
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This extraordinary realm is the ancient extension of the Okavango,
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a river of dreams.
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The next and final chapter of our story of the great Okavango in Botswana
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is where its fingers clutch onto life, as the water touches the desert,
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where paradise turns into an inferno.
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Each droplet is a jewel that holds the fate of a small part of all life here.
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It is the story of movement.
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Everyone is on the move.
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Like fragile porcelain, this part of the delta is vulnerable to the smallest change --
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in water, in temperature, and from the swirling influences of tiny animals.
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Red billed quelea in their millions start to flock.
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These are the most abundant birds on the whole planet.
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A single super-flock of quelea can devour twenty tons of feed a day,
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and that changes everything here.
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The quelea will change the lives of the nearby leopard family,
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as the flock strips the grasses down to bare sand.
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The little female's brother has less time for such reflections,
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he is more interested in how things work in the world.
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Like the bees, returning laden with pollen.
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He hasn't learned the dangers of being curious yet.
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Bee-eaters swoop in to take advantage.
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Bored with killer bees, he takes to irritating his more serious twin sister.
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It's the season of the sausage tree flowers.
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Good for bees... and the ideal place for the twin's mother to hang out.
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She's not resting, she's waiting for the fallen flowers to attract attention.
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Usually, leopards catch just once in every 5 attempts,
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but by using this sausage tree technique, she has a much higher success rate.
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It's also why we call her "Moporoto" -- the local name for sausage tree.
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The cubs are developing their own killing skills,
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but by watching Moporoto, they might understand exactly what these flowers can give them.
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Rest is impossible, so within minutes, she heads back to the trees.
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The throat hold makes it a silent death.
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Stealth after the kill is as important as before for one of the smallest of the big cats.
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In this complex mosaic of the Okavango,
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bigger predators and scavengers stride across the landscape as if they own it.
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They do own it.
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Here, the water separates into streams and rivulets,
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winding fingers that cut through the grassland and sausage tree islands.
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The lions are in search of shade,
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but the breeze has hints of the smell of meat on it.
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If the cubs panic, they could slip.
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It would end their story.
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The lions want the kill, but just can't get to it.
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Thankfully, the lions have their own cubs, and the massive sausage pods distract them.
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Their fascination with the woody pods is a mystery to the leopard cubs.
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But from now on, their lives will be intertwined with all these other predators,
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because the Okavango has one of the highest densities of carnivores in Africa.
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And they're periodically thrown together by the flood.
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There is a chill in the morning air now,
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but during the day, the temperature starts to rise.
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This signals the start of the dry season, when the channels begin to shrink.
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Oxygen levels drop.
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The fish that recognize that turn and head back upstream.
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Those that leave it just too late get cut off, isolated.
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The birds harvest tons of fish each year.
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Their collective and organized feeding frenzy will clean out a pool in just a few days.
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But all the way down the delta, right to the end fingers,
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these fish traps provide for one of the greatest diversities of water birds in Africa.
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Being able to move is critical to survival at the fringes,
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where water supply is fickle during this part of the year.
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When the feed above ground is depleted, elephants go in search of a new protein source.
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They start mining the rhizomes and grass roots buried in the sand.
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In the dry season, the entire value of the grasses is stored below the surface.
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Local residents have to protest to stay safe.
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A pack of painted dogs have a small problem today...
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Actually, 16 problems...
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Having this many puppies causes a problem
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because only one female in the pack is allowed to breed.
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So, the Alpha female has stolen her sisters puppies... but she's struggling to feed them all.
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It's a free-for-all, but she refuses to share
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this burden of motherhood or abandon any pups.
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The headache for the alpha male is that
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they're going to be called on to hunt twice a day now, and they're already exhausted.
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So is the river.
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After its nearly thousand-mile journey, the full thrust of the flood has ended.
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The water flow settles and starts to seep in.
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Even sleeping giants can be woken by a small niggling voice.
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It's a nudge that starts a ripple effect of movement.
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It's the largest migration of elephants in the world.
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Now, the air is so dry that it turns the grasses brittle under their feet.
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They cover hundreds of miles in search of water.
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It's a 50-gallon-a-day challenge,
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so these Okavango elephants are seldom far away from water --
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water that others live in, fight in, and churn up into mud faster than is necessary.
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But this pressure on resources sets the elephants off again in search of clean water,
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and behind them, the land is left to rest.
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At these fringes, those that can move have an advantage.
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Warthogs are after the same buried grass roots, rhizomes.
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It's the season when warthogs cluster around rhizome patches.
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It's an awkward position to be in.
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Lionesses have to hunt whatever prey is in their territory.
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A good pig hunting day will see two or three taken in one hunt.
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They can hide -- but they shouldn't run...
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Here, it's all about territory.
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Warthogs will feed the lionesses until the rains,
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but it's risky being territorial at the far end of the water.
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A low flood one year, and they will be high and dry.
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Lions cubs play with anything...
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...even old elephant dung.
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What is just a play thing for lions, is highly valued nesting material for squirrels.
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They're playing the long game and preparing early.
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Raiding starlings spot an opportunity for themselves.
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They are energetically lazy about nesting.
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The squirrels' nesting material is just easier to steal.
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When one thing goes wrong, everything falls apart.
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It's a bad day for squirrels.
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The lilac-breasted rollers aren't after the nesting material.
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They're after the whole nest...
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It's pure harassment, no matter how brightly colored it is.
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Eventually, it is just easier and quieter to move on, the early squirrel just wasted her time.
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The rains are some way off anyway.
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Moporoto has been hunting.
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The sausage tree technique is still working for her.
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Her island has been the perfect refuge for her and her cubs.
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Because the little male always gets to feed first,
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the female cub tries to hone her tree climbing skills.
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She doesn't quite have the hang of it yet.
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Moporoto has to start thinking about moving soon:
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the smell of meat and cubs has started to attract attention.
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It's a stolen meal -- next time it might be a cub.
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She has to move them now.
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It's their first venture away from their birth place,
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into a world filled with strangeness for them.
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It may seem like a harmless duel,
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but giraffes can do serious damage to each other...
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with razor sharp hooves and battering ram-like heads.
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She's followed the line of sausage trees while they have flowers,
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but now she has to venture out.
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The open grassland is very risky for a leopard with cubs.
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Lions are the biggest threat to them.
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But today, it's stifling hot,
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and the large, black-maned lion is even hotter than his females.
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And his shade from the termite mound is steadily disappearing.
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Even investigating vultures is beyond him today.
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The cubs feel the same.
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But for Moporoto, there is just something about the way the vultures are circling...
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Something definitely worth looking into.
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It's a giraffe, killed in a fight.
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Out here, there are no free meals the hyenas aren't already aware of.
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Her cubs panic.
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One up the tree...
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the other to the bush.
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He is safe.
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Now she has a problem,
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and it's largely one of communication.
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She somehow tells him to stay in the tree,
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but tries to encourage the little female back from the bushes.
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She tests the night.
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Her tree climbing lessons paid off.
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The lost little female is found.
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It doesn't take the vultures long to claim the kill
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under the little male's sausage tree hideout.
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But now, when the hyena senses danger, it isn't from Moporoto.
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The single event -- a giraffe fight gone wrong --
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has attracted a full range of opportunists.
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It's almost unheard of for painted dogs to scavenge, but the pack needs this now.
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If they're going to bring up 16 pups, any meat at this fragile water's end will do.
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This will go a long way.
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But vultures will just attract other scavengers now, and the real danger to dogs is lions,
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so it's tense around the carcass... especially for the stranded leopard cub.
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The alpha male's obsession with vultures is a distraction.
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It's Moporoto all a-hiss with fury,
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way out-numbered, but with the confidence of a lion.
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Their adventure, their first in the world beyond their den, is over.
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It takes a little coaxing, but he finally understands that she feels it's safe to come down.
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Backwards is fine, too...
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A last feed before it starts all over again with hyenas, and possibly lions.
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But each interaction makes the cubs stronger now,
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better equipped to grow in this extraordinary swampland
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and its fingers of water that stretch out into the desert.
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A full month before the rains, something stirs in the air,
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something that has local residents paying attention.
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Zebras have started to migrate south.
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As they do, they meet strangers.
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Meerkats can't afford to spend much time gawking.
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They're on a high-energy diet.
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Out here, beyond the water's end, they find that in juicy, fat grubs.
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The family posts a permanent lookout,
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because the threat to them will come from the ground, as well as from the air.
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In the soft sand, there is always a ready hole on standby for escape.
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The farther away from permanent water the herds go,
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the more closely followed they are by nomadic lions.
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Desperate hunters without the restriction of territories.
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But the real mystery is why the herds leave the tip of the Okavango flood at all.
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The answer is in the quality of the water they leave behind.
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Water holes are tired, drying to liquid that is rapidly being turned into mud.
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As these last pools of water get isolated and cut off,
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the water is virtually undrinkable.
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Elephants dominate,
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and it is here that the nomadic lions find the best opportunities.
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They understand that someone's desperation is their hope.
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They're often young, displaced siblings, both males and females.
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Now these nomads must form even stronger bonds,
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as they move into the unknown thirst land.
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The heat is hard on anyone who is slightly slower.
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She was asleep at her den when the nomads found her.
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Bat-eared foxes mate for life.
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He has no choice but to watch the lions play with his mate.
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He will have to raise the family alone now and be the lookout for all of them.
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Secretary birds are no threat, as long as you stay still.
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The fox family is ready to bolt if she gets any closer.
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The scrub hare at the bird's feet knows to freeze.
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But secretary birds hunt on movement - even the slightest movement...
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It takes nerves of steel to wait it out.
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He just didn't have them...
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If you can't move, you have to change tactics.
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There are very few that can survive for long beyond the water.
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Tragedy follows any misstep out here...
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Procrastination when it comes to a decision
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to leave a territory, a pool of mud, is simply foolhardy.
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But some just get caught out.
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As a last desperate effort,
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barbel, one of the few fish in the world with accessory breathing capabilities
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that allow them to breath actual air, start to "walk."
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Some burrow into the mud and slow their metabolisms
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right down to barely a heartbeat... waiting for the rains.
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If they get it wrong, they're on the top layer and simply bake.
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She doesn't have the bulky body of Moporoto, because she doesn't get the same food.
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She's a desert leopard.
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But the wily leopard living on the edge has a talent for finding the impossible...
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A buried barbel.
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It's small, but in a few days, the hippo will probably be stuck too.
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She can wait...
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It starts with the most gentle of breezes, dusting the scorched sands.
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The zebras are the first to recognize it.
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It comes from out there.
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Where the herds go, the nomads follow.
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Movement.
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The hot air rises and cools.
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As it drops down, the air triggers a cycle of the most extraordinary contrasts.
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It is the eternal journey of life from death,
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water from dry, and motion from the static stifling heat.
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They run on the promise of rain.
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Within days, over 3,000 miles of flat thirst land is transformed by just a few inches of sheet rain water.
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It takes the pressure off everyone.
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It unlocks them from purgatory.
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It releases the nomads to spend energy playing again.
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It attracts thousands of pink visitors from across the subcontinent.
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The arrival of the flamingos is all about sodium chloride -- basic salt.
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The rain has stimulated a hatching of shrimp that they feed on.
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The sheet water gives them safety,
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an early warning against being ambushed.
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Their pantomime is only interrupted by a snooping jackal.
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He's heading somewhere else anyway.
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The smell of blood on the wind.
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A wandering lion, like so many other cats here,
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prefers the rough and spiky grass islands to the sticky salt water.
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It's hard for everyone.
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But it is that salt that the zebras have been coming towards, for months.
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They desperately need the minerals to fight off
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the toxins from the grasses they have been eating 300 miles away in the Okavango delta.
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Without salt, they simply cannot survive.
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If you are a zebra in Botswana and want to find a mate, fight for your right to a herd,
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or even give birth in the safety of thousands, this is the place to be.
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Full moon in the salt pans is a kaleidoscope of night light,
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dancing off the white salty sands below the water.
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To really understand the Okavango is to know
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that this precious water takes half a year to reach the full extent of its range.
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It nourishes over 10,000 square miles and everything that lives in it.
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Every single life here plays its own unique role in creating this pristine landscape.
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And together, they all change the water's flow.
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They are a reflection of the river itself.
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Regal male lions fight and force nomads to wander off.
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Fires burn underground and gently smoke for years
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flushing out the old, stimulating the new.
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It's an enigma.
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A place where a beautiful stillness hangs in the air.
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It is one of the last places on Earth where giants can still roam unmolested.
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Where babies can trust in tomorrow, and where hope is alive.
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It's where a single lioness can overcome impossible odds, to live another day.
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It is a jewel, one of the most pristine landscapes left on the planet,
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and its future is entirely in our hands.
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We have a choice: we can protect it,
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or we can just stand back and bear witness to the very last life here,
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and watch as it all ghosts away... like a dream.
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To learn more about
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wh at you've seen
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on this "Nature" program,
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vi sit pbs.org.
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