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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,437 --> 00:00:06,238 Narrator: An astonishing treasure trove of trains 2 00:00:06,240 --> 00:00:09,441 Hidden in the heart of africa... 3 00:00:09,443 --> 00:00:13,912 Bell: It's like a train graveyard with shrubs and earth 4 00:00:13,914 --> 00:00:16,915 Gradually burying the remains. 5 00:00:19,387 --> 00:00:21,987 Narrator: ...A mystical complex of structures 6 00:00:21,989 --> 00:00:24,123 Shrouded in intrigue... 7 00:00:24,125 --> 00:00:25,958 Selwood: Skulls have been found at this site, 8 00:00:25,960 --> 00:00:27,493 But they're not to do with burials. 9 00:00:27,495 --> 00:00:30,796 It's believed these were taken as trophies. 10 00:00:30,798 --> 00:00:33,232 Narrator: ...And vast relics of industry 11 00:00:33,234 --> 00:00:36,001 Rusting in the american midwest. 12 00:00:36,003 --> 00:00:38,470 This is just a small part of what was here, 13 00:00:38,472 --> 00:00:41,607 Shows you the scale of this facility. 14 00:00:41,609 --> 00:00:47,646 ♪ 15 00:00:47,648 --> 00:00:50,349 Narrator: Decaying relics, 16 00:00:50,351 --> 00:00:53,585 Ruins of lost worlds, 17 00:00:53,587 --> 00:00:56,321 Forged through years of toil, 18 00:00:56,323 --> 00:00:59,024 Now haunted by the past, 19 00:00:59,026 --> 00:01:02,728 Their secrets waiting to be revealed. 20 00:01:02,730 --> 00:01:05,731 -- Captions by vitac -- www.Vitac.Com 21 00:01:05,733 --> 00:01:08,734 Captions paid for by discovery communications 22 00:01:08,736 --> 00:01:17,676 ♪ 23 00:01:17,678 --> 00:01:20,512 On the peaceful shores of lake michigan, 24 00:01:20,514 --> 00:01:23,248 In the heart of the american midwest, 25 00:01:23,250 --> 00:01:27,453 Stands a series of sites with an intriguing past. 26 00:01:31,358 --> 00:01:33,692 Meigs: There's not much left in the way of clues 27 00:01:33,694 --> 00:01:35,060 To tell you what it was for. 28 00:01:35,062 --> 00:01:40,933 Clearly, when the site was abandoned, it was stripped bare. 29 00:01:40,935 --> 00:01:43,669 This place has a top secret feel to it. 30 00:01:43,671 --> 00:01:47,206 You know, you see the remains of fencing topped with barbed wire. 31 00:01:47,208 --> 00:01:50,576 You see control towers of some kind. 32 00:01:50,578 --> 00:01:56,849 Why do we have plinths and platforms with nothing on them? 33 00:01:56,851 --> 00:01:59,084 Wawro: And that, in turn, begs the question, 34 00:01:59,086 --> 00:02:01,887 So what were these things for? 35 00:02:01,889 --> 00:02:03,956 Narrator: A scope of the surrounding area 36 00:02:03,958 --> 00:02:07,292 Reveals something more perplexing -- the remnants 37 00:02:07,294 --> 00:02:11,864 Of a second related site lie covered in undergrowth. 38 00:02:11,866 --> 00:02:14,399 This site is, if anything, even more mysterious. 39 00:02:14,401 --> 00:02:16,568 You just have this large concrete pad, 40 00:02:16,570 --> 00:02:20,506 And then these steel doors open to something underground, 41 00:02:20,508 --> 00:02:22,875 But you can't see what. 42 00:02:22,877 --> 00:02:26,645 Narrator: What was so deadly that it was kept underground 43 00:02:26,647 --> 00:02:29,348 At this disturbing site in indiana. 44 00:02:29,350 --> 00:02:31,817 And what links these two compounds 45 00:02:31,819 --> 00:02:35,754 To one of the most perilous periods of american history? 46 00:02:38,092 --> 00:02:41,627 Local entrepreneur virgil frey is keen to preserve 47 00:02:41,629 --> 00:02:45,330 The long forgotten buildings of this cryptic site. 48 00:02:45,332 --> 00:02:47,366 Vestiges of a barrack suggest 49 00:02:47,368 --> 00:02:52,571 It was some kind of military center back in the 1950s. 50 00:02:52,573 --> 00:02:54,239 This is the part of the property that housed 51 00:02:54,241 --> 00:02:57,342 Over 90 men when it was an active base. 52 00:02:57,344 --> 00:02:59,878 We have 17 full buildings. 53 00:02:59,880 --> 00:03:01,246 The admin building. 54 00:03:01,248 --> 00:03:03,248 That's where the commander would have been. 55 00:03:03,250 --> 00:03:05,384 We have two full barracks buildings. 56 00:03:05,386 --> 00:03:07,085 We have a mess hall. 57 00:03:07,087 --> 00:03:10,822 We have a generator room to produce power for the base. 58 00:03:10,824 --> 00:03:12,891 Narrator: The true purpose of this place 59 00:03:12,893 --> 00:03:15,227 Was a well-guarded secret. 60 00:03:15,229 --> 00:03:17,963 All 23 acres were surrounded by barbed wire. 61 00:03:17,965 --> 00:03:19,498 There were dogs or kennels 62 00:03:19,500 --> 00:03:21,733 And extra security that would be here. 63 00:03:21,735 --> 00:03:24,870 The general public knew very little about the property 64 00:03:24,872 --> 00:03:26,738 And what went on here at the time. 65 00:03:29,643 --> 00:03:31,476 Narrator: One building on this site 66 00:03:31,478 --> 00:03:34,913 Explains this level of security. 67 00:03:34,915 --> 00:03:36,648 Frey: So this is the communications building. 68 00:03:36,650 --> 00:03:39,251 So this building would have housed racks 69 00:03:39,253 --> 00:03:41,987 And racks of computers. 70 00:03:41,989 --> 00:03:44,790 Narrator: This provides a clue to what would have once 71 00:03:44,792 --> 00:03:48,126 Topped the site's five looming towers. 72 00:03:48,128 --> 00:03:49,695 So each one of these towers housed 73 00:03:49,697 --> 00:03:51,163 A different set of radar. 74 00:03:51,165 --> 00:03:52,631 When the base was active, 75 00:03:52,633 --> 00:03:56,068 There was dishes along the top of that tower. 76 00:03:56,070 --> 00:03:57,402 The key elements of the property 77 00:03:57,404 --> 00:03:59,638 Were really gathering the information from the towers, 78 00:03:59,640 --> 00:04:02,741 Putting that together in the communications room. 79 00:04:02,743 --> 00:04:05,978 Wawro: So the towers themselves are essentially platforms 80 00:04:05,980 --> 00:04:10,349 For radar arrays and communication systems. 81 00:04:12,453 --> 00:04:14,720 Narrator: But what was this highly sophisticated 82 00:04:14,722 --> 00:04:18,490 Surveillance system designed to detect? 83 00:04:18,492 --> 00:04:21,793 The answer can be found almost a mile away 84 00:04:21,795 --> 00:04:24,162 At a second, more remote site 85 00:04:24,164 --> 00:04:27,933 With its ominous-looking doors in the ground. 86 00:04:27,935 --> 00:04:30,535 Meigs: What we're looking at here is the command 87 00:04:30,537 --> 00:04:33,105 And control center for an installation 88 00:04:33,107 --> 00:04:38,744 Of very sophisticated antiaircraft missiles. 89 00:04:38,746 --> 00:04:42,714 Narrator: This pair of derelict sites worked in tandem. 90 00:04:42,716 --> 00:04:46,485 The first site was a listening station and control center. 91 00:04:46,487 --> 00:04:49,655 Wawro: The radar sets will relay the coordinates over 92 00:04:49,657 --> 00:04:52,291 To the launch site where the missiles will be prepared. 93 00:04:52,293 --> 00:04:56,995 There's three of them behind these steel doors. 94 00:04:56,997 --> 00:04:59,431 Narrator: The missiles launched from the second site 95 00:04:59,433 --> 00:05:01,633 Were interceptors designed 96 00:05:01,635 --> 00:05:04,703 To take out invading enemy aircraft. 97 00:05:08,409 --> 00:05:13,145 But why would anyone want to attack the american midwest? 98 00:05:13,147 --> 00:05:17,015 A clue sits 10 miles away from the missile sites 99 00:05:17,017 --> 00:05:20,218 In a vast industrial wasteland. 100 00:05:20,220 --> 00:05:22,721 These two areas of abandoned infrastructure 101 00:05:22,723 --> 00:05:24,356 Are linked in history. 102 00:05:24,358 --> 00:05:27,693 This whole region is full of this kind of 103 00:05:27,695 --> 00:05:30,829 Abandoned infrastructure on a very large scale. 104 00:05:30,831 --> 00:05:33,965 It looks like some post-apocalyptic vision. 105 00:05:33,967 --> 00:05:37,336 What is the connection between these sites? 106 00:05:37,338 --> 00:05:41,473 And did the same thing destroy all of them? 107 00:05:41,475 --> 00:05:46,311 Narrator: The answer lies in the history of this derelict place. 108 00:05:46,313 --> 00:05:49,848 50 years ago, it was a hive of activity. 109 00:05:49,850 --> 00:05:53,385 This was really the beating heart of american industry, 110 00:05:53,387 --> 00:05:56,788 This whole new industrial zone created along the shores 111 00:05:56,790 --> 00:05:59,658 Of lake michigan near chicago. 112 00:05:59,660 --> 00:06:03,195 Narrator: And this is the town of gary, indiana, 113 00:06:03,197 --> 00:06:06,031 Once dubbed the city of the century. 114 00:06:06,033 --> 00:06:07,566 The colossal scale of this place 115 00:06:07,568 --> 00:06:12,537 Was born out of one hugely prized product -- steel. 116 00:06:12,539 --> 00:06:14,840 Meigs: When u.S. Steel set up shop 117 00:06:14,842 --> 00:06:17,642 On the banks of lake michigan in 1906, 118 00:06:17,644 --> 00:06:20,912 That was really the start of gary's rise 119 00:06:20,914 --> 00:06:23,648 To being an industrial powerhouse and a region 120 00:06:23,650 --> 00:06:26,818 Of enormous strategic importance to the country. 121 00:06:26,820 --> 00:06:30,889 It was vitally important for the military, as well. 122 00:06:30,891 --> 00:06:33,325 Wawro: And in world war ii, the steelworks at gary 123 00:06:33,327 --> 00:06:37,229 Are producing all the steel needed for, you know, ships, 124 00:06:37,231 --> 00:06:42,033 Planes, tanks, and all the, you know, armaments of war. 125 00:06:42,035 --> 00:06:45,170 Gary is chosen as an industrial site for many reasons. 126 00:06:45,172 --> 00:06:48,607 One of them is that it's immune to enemy attack 127 00:06:48,609 --> 00:06:50,575 Because it's so far inland. 128 00:06:50,577 --> 00:06:53,478 Nusbacher: You could not fly a plane 129 00:06:53,480 --> 00:06:58,750 From germany or japan or russia to bomb 130 00:06:58,752 --> 00:07:01,620 Gary, indiana. 131 00:07:01,622 --> 00:07:03,688 Narrator: But after the second world war, 132 00:07:03,690 --> 00:07:06,324 Tensions between the u.S. And the soviet union 133 00:07:06,326 --> 00:07:08,226 Drove a fast-paced race 134 00:07:08,228 --> 00:07:12,130 For a technological and military supremacy. 135 00:07:12,132 --> 00:07:14,266 And the u.S.S.R. Soon came up with 136 00:07:14,268 --> 00:07:17,736 A long-range high-flying bomber. 137 00:07:17,738 --> 00:07:22,274 Nusbacher: If the soviets had ordered an attack on america, 138 00:07:22,276 --> 00:07:27,279 Big soviet bomber aircraft filled with nuclear weapons, 139 00:07:27,281 --> 00:07:31,550 Escorted by regiment after regiment of fighter aircraft, 140 00:07:31,552 --> 00:07:34,619 Would have crossed north over the pole 141 00:07:34,621 --> 00:07:38,657 And moved south towards the american heartland. 142 00:07:38,659 --> 00:07:43,462 It starts to become possible to nuke gary. 143 00:07:45,732 --> 00:07:47,265 Narrator: The launch and control sites 144 00:07:47,267 --> 00:07:50,001 Now sinking into the indiana shrubland 145 00:07:50,003 --> 00:07:54,272 Date back to that time when 150 million americans 146 00:07:54,274 --> 00:07:56,475 Were suddenly living within range 147 00:07:56,477 --> 00:07:59,010 Of soviet nuclear warheads. 148 00:08:02,015 --> 00:08:03,615 The u.S. Military 149 00:08:03,617 --> 00:08:06,084 Had to defend the american heartland, 150 00:08:06,086 --> 00:08:09,454 But did these overgrown sites live up to the job? 151 00:08:13,360 --> 00:08:21,500 ♪ 152 00:08:21,502 --> 00:08:25,470 Narrator: In the 1950s, this pair of dilapidated sites 153 00:08:25,472 --> 00:08:28,106 Concealed the capability to blast 154 00:08:28,108 --> 00:08:31,543 State-of-the-art soviet bombers out of the sky. 155 00:08:34,414 --> 00:08:39,484 These are the remains of the nike missile project. 156 00:08:39,486 --> 00:08:41,419 Wawro: These nike missiles were regarded 157 00:08:41,421 --> 00:08:44,389 As the ultimate defensive measure 158 00:08:44,391 --> 00:08:47,459 Against the ultimate soviet weapon at the time, 159 00:08:47,461 --> 00:08:51,162 The heavy bomber coming in over the north pole. 160 00:08:51,164 --> 00:08:54,866 Narrator: There were more than 20 paired nike missile sites 161 00:08:54,868 --> 00:08:56,801 In the lake michigan area. 162 00:08:59,006 --> 00:09:02,507 This pair is nike c-47. 163 00:09:02,509 --> 00:09:06,444 Together, they were designed to defend gary, indiana, 164 00:09:06,446 --> 00:09:08,914 And the dilapidated communication room 165 00:09:08,916 --> 00:09:11,316 Was mission control. 166 00:09:11,318 --> 00:09:13,518 So, should the decision have been made 167 00:09:13,520 --> 00:09:15,487 To actually launch a missile, 168 00:09:15,489 --> 00:09:18,323 This is where it would have happened from. 169 00:09:18,325 --> 00:09:21,259 The missile that they would have been firing obviously needs 170 00:09:21,261 --> 00:09:22,761 To strike that target, 171 00:09:22,763 --> 00:09:25,664 Or a lot of people's lives are on the line. 172 00:09:25,666 --> 00:09:27,265 I couldn't imagine how it must have felt 173 00:09:27,267 --> 00:09:29,401 To have to actually make those decisions. 174 00:09:29,403 --> 00:09:32,604 I'm sure it would have been tense at that moment. 175 00:09:32,606 --> 00:09:34,940 If you were a missile operator, 176 00:09:34,942 --> 00:09:37,142 A radar operator at an installation like this, 177 00:09:37,144 --> 00:09:39,477 You really just get one shot at it. 178 00:09:39,479 --> 00:09:44,649 And if they were asleep at the switch, people could die. 179 00:09:46,653 --> 00:09:49,955 Narrator: But the advance of the cold war technology race 180 00:09:49,957 --> 00:09:53,191 Meant that the missiles of nike's c-47 181 00:09:53,193 --> 00:09:55,961 Were never called into action. 182 00:09:55,963 --> 00:09:57,796 Even as they were being built, 183 00:09:57,798 --> 00:10:01,099 The technology was changing and the threat was changing. 184 00:10:01,101 --> 00:10:04,869 In the 1960s, the soviet union 185 00:10:04,871 --> 00:10:09,374 Develops intercontinental ballistic missiles. 186 00:10:09,376 --> 00:10:11,076 Meigs: There was no real defense 187 00:10:11,078 --> 00:10:13,612 Against an intercontinental ballistic missile. 188 00:10:13,614 --> 00:10:18,249 That warhead would be coming in from space at supersonic speeds. 189 00:10:18,251 --> 00:10:20,819 Wawro: Suddenly, this cutting-edge defensive weapon 190 00:10:20,821 --> 00:10:22,120 Is no longer useful. 191 00:10:22,122 --> 00:10:25,924 And so what we see here in the land around gary 192 00:10:25,926 --> 00:10:28,360 Is just a moment in that history. 193 00:10:30,597 --> 00:10:32,330 Narrator: And in the coming decades, 194 00:10:32,332 --> 00:10:34,766 The industry of gary, indiana, 195 00:10:34,768 --> 00:10:37,335 Would also be rendered obsolete. 196 00:10:37,337 --> 00:10:41,773 Not at the hands of communism, but capitalist markets. 197 00:10:41,775 --> 00:10:43,942 Nusbacher: Nobody had to blow it up with a nuclear weapon. 198 00:10:43,944 --> 00:10:48,913 The realities of economics and politics changed gary 199 00:10:48,915 --> 00:10:52,784 Into the rubble we see there today. 200 00:10:52,786 --> 00:10:55,020 These missile bases 201 00:10:55,022 --> 00:10:58,390 Were very much part of the story of gary, indiana, 202 00:10:58,392 --> 00:11:01,192 Just as much as those big factories. 203 00:11:01,194 --> 00:11:06,998 ♪ 204 00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:10,535 Narrator: Today, beyond the industrial wasteland, 205 00:11:10,537 --> 00:11:12,637 Encroaching undergrowth engulfs 206 00:11:12,639 --> 00:11:16,775 The once-cutting-edge defense system. 207 00:11:16,777 --> 00:11:18,743 The place is a real monument 208 00:11:18,745 --> 00:11:21,846 To the pace of technological change during the cold war. 209 00:11:21,848 --> 00:11:27,152 ♪ 210 00:11:27,154 --> 00:11:28,853 Narrator: In the north of England, 211 00:11:28,855 --> 00:11:31,356 A collection of crumbling structures 212 00:11:31,358 --> 00:11:34,826 Once marked the edge of the known world. 213 00:11:34,828 --> 00:11:39,597 ♪ 214 00:11:39,599 --> 00:11:43,068 Selwood: Britain represented something that was unknown, barbaric. 215 00:11:43,070 --> 00:11:47,839 It was a place of myth and speculation and mystery. 216 00:11:47,841 --> 00:11:50,141 Meigs: Here and there you see 217 00:11:50,143 --> 00:11:52,043 The remnants of stone foundations. 218 00:11:52,045 --> 00:11:55,146 It suggests something significant was built here. 219 00:11:55,148 --> 00:11:58,283 Jerram: This site is located amongst a sort of network 220 00:11:58,285 --> 00:12:00,185 Of streams and waterways. 221 00:12:00,187 --> 00:12:03,321 Could have sustained quite a lot of people living there. 222 00:12:03,323 --> 00:12:07,092 Narrator: But any trace of those who walked these stone pathways 223 00:12:07,094 --> 00:12:09,994 Has long since vanished. 224 00:12:09,996 --> 00:12:13,298 Whoever built this put a lot of engineering ingenuity 225 00:12:13,300 --> 00:12:15,767 And craftsmanship into building this. 226 00:12:15,769 --> 00:12:19,037 You have a commanding view of the whole region, 227 00:12:19,039 --> 00:12:22,107 Which suggests that it had military importance. 228 00:12:26,480 --> 00:12:30,782 We're less than a mile from a major defensive structure. 229 00:12:30,784 --> 00:12:33,351 Selwood: The vast wall was designed to protect those 230 00:12:33,353 --> 00:12:36,221 In the south from the people to the north, 231 00:12:36,223 --> 00:12:38,056 But the question this poses is 232 00:12:38,058 --> 00:12:40,391 Who was these people to the north of the wall? 233 00:12:40,393 --> 00:12:43,928 Narrator: Evidence suggests that beyond this wall 234 00:12:43,930 --> 00:12:48,099 Lived a feared painted people. 235 00:12:48,101 --> 00:12:52,036 Jerram: This is really venturing into the dark and mysterious. 236 00:12:52,038 --> 00:12:55,073 And you could imagine that it would have been both exciting, 237 00:12:55,075 --> 00:12:57,475 But also quite scary. 238 00:12:57,477 --> 00:12:59,811 Narrator: Further excavation reveals oppression 239 00:12:59,813 --> 00:13:02,213 And treachery were at play here. 240 00:13:02,215 --> 00:13:04,048 Skulls have been found at this site, 241 00:13:04,050 --> 00:13:05,617 But they're not to do with burials. 242 00:13:05,619 --> 00:13:08,019 It's believed these were taken as trophies. 243 00:13:08,021 --> 00:13:10,121 These foundations are just the surface. 244 00:13:10,123 --> 00:13:15,126 Underneath is an epic and bloody history. 245 00:13:15,128 --> 00:13:17,495 Narrator: What links the monumental wall 246 00:13:17,497 --> 00:13:20,398 That cuts through the wilds of northern England 247 00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:23,301 To this eerie abandoned place? 248 00:13:23,303 --> 00:13:29,307 ♪ 249 00:13:29,309 --> 00:13:34,145 This ancient site is known as vindolanda. 250 00:13:34,147 --> 00:13:37,115 Archaeologist andrew birley has spent his life 251 00:13:37,117 --> 00:13:39,117 Figuring out what went on here, 252 00:13:39,119 --> 00:13:42,387 Like his father and grandfather before him. 253 00:13:44,457 --> 00:13:47,192 Birley: It's given up a huge number of its secrets. 254 00:13:47,194 --> 00:13:49,160 Most secrets have changed our perceptions. 255 00:13:49,162 --> 00:13:51,696 The more and more work we do, the more we start to understand 256 00:13:51,698 --> 00:13:55,733 About what happened here almost two thousand years ago. 257 00:13:55,735 --> 00:13:57,268 Narrator: Relics of walls, 258 00:13:57,270 --> 00:14:01,005 Broken steps, and remnants of strange foundations 259 00:14:01,007 --> 00:14:05,643 Provide the barest outline of what once stood here. 260 00:14:05,645 --> 00:14:10,048 This building here has got about 20 rooms on the ground floor. 261 00:14:10,050 --> 00:14:12,550 Really, really impressive. 262 00:14:12,552 --> 00:14:15,553 Digging deep between these desolate ruins, 263 00:14:15,555 --> 00:14:18,756 Andrew's father unearthed an incredible clue 264 00:14:18,758 --> 00:14:20,925 As to who lived here. 265 00:14:20,927 --> 00:14:24,229 We found the remains of a bonfire site, 266 00:14:24,231 --> 00:14:28,666 And included on that bonfire was something like 320 or 330 267 00:14:28,668 --> 00:14:30,635 Letters, documents. 268 00:14:33,339 --> 00:14:37,775 Narrator: Who carved out these ancient words two millennia ago? 269 00:14:37,777 --> 00:14:40,211 And why did they vanish? 270 00:14:43,216 --> 00:14:50,321 ♪ 271 00:14:50,323 --> 00:14:53,157 Narrator: On a windy outcrop in northern England, 272 00:14:53,159 --> 00:14:56,194 The ancient ruins of vindolanda are giving up 273 00:14:56,196 --> 00:14:58,997 Tantalizing secrets from the past. 274 00:14:58,999 --> 00:15:02,467 The biggest indication as to who built this site lies 275 00:15:02,469 --> 00:15:06,905 Not within it, but scattered all around. 276 00:15:06,907 --> 00:15:08,339 Nearby, you've got this long, 277 00:15:08,341 --> 00:15:10,608 Straight road running from east to west, 278 00:15:10,610 --> 00:15:12,443 And that might give us an indication 279 00:15:12,445 --> 00:15:15,546 As to who built this and why. 280 00:15:15,548 --> 00:15:19,017 Narrator: Back then, the only people to build roads like this 281 00:15:19,019 --> 00:15:20,852 Where the romans. 282 00:15:20,854 --> 00:15:22,887 Birley: I'm standing here on one of the major roman roads. 283 00:15:22,889 --> 00:15:25,990 On either side of me, solid walls of stone, 284 00:15:25,992 --> 00:15:30,028 Solid pavement of stone, and a very big door at the far end. 285 00:15:30,030 --> 00:15:32,797 Narrator: In the location of vindolanda 286 00:15:32,799 --> 00:15:36,234 Indicates a military purpose. 287 00:15:36,236 --> 00:15:40,271 Vindolanda sits on the border between England and scotland, 288 00:15:40,273 --> 00:15:43,141 At the northern edge of the roman empire, 289 00:15:43,143 --> 00:15:48,012 Which once spread from northern britain to the middle east. 290 00:15:48,014 --> 00:15:51,249 So vindolanda was a frontier conquest fort. 291 00:15:51,251 --> 00:15:54,118 So when the roman army conquered this part of the landscape, 292 00:15:54,120 --> 00:15:55,420 They put a fort down here 293 00:15:55,422 --> 00:15:57,822 As part of something called the roman frontier. 294 00:15:57,824 --> 00:16:00,191 So wherever you go inside this fort, 295 00:16:00,193 --> 00:16:04,595 You're reminded of structure, rank, status, 296 00:16:04,597 --> 00:16:06,931 And the huge impact of rome. 297 00:16:09,903 --> 00:16:12,737 For the romans, britain was beyond the known world. 298 00:16:12,739 --> 00:16:14,205 It was a land of mystery. 299 00:16:14,207 --> 00:16:16,207 It was a land where things were unknown. 300 00:16:16,209 --> 00:16:18,209 It was a place where they speculated 301 00:16:18,211 --> 00:16:21,079 About myth and mystery. 302 00:16:21,081 --> 00:16:24,315 Narrator: They were especially terrified of the warring 303 00:16:24,317 --> 00:16:26,551 Barbarians of the north. 304 00:16:26,553 --> 00:16:28,519 Selwood: The romans called the people north of the wall 305 00:16:28,521 --> 00:16:30,455 "the painted people," picti, 306 00:16:30,457 --> 00:16:32,423 From where we get the word "picts." 307 00:16:32,425 --> 00:16:34,025 They thought they were deeply uncivilized 308 00:16:34,027 --> 00:16:39,163 But respected them as great and fearsome warriors. 309 00:16:39,165 --> 00:16:41,833 Narrator: Evidence of how the romans tried to control 310 00:16:41,835 --> 00:16:47,505 The northern tribes lies within sight of vindolanda. 311 00:16:47,507 --> 00:16:49,841 Jerram: As you sort of rise up and look into the distance, 312 00:16:49,843 --> 00:16:52,443 You can see the walls snaking along the landscape, 313 00:16:52,445 --> 00:16:55,580 Using every sort of nook and cranny of the landscape 314 00:16:55,582 --> 00:16:58,282 To help fortify its protection. 315 00:16:58,284 --> 00:17:00,418 Selwood: The vast wall runs across the whole 316 00:17:00,420 --> 00:17:04,155 Of northern britain from coast to coast. 317 00:17:04,157 --> 00:17:08,426 Narrator: This extraordinary 73-mile long construction 318 00:17:08,428 --> 00:17:10,461 Is hadrian's wall. 319 00:17:10,463 --> 00:17:15,433 It was built by one of rome's most ruthless emperors. 320 00:17:15,435 --> 00:17:17,668 Hadrian was a volatile character. 321 00:17:17,670 --> 00:17:19,804 It's said that his boyfriend jumped into the river, 322 00:17:19,806 --> 00:17:22,907 But many also said that it was hadrian who pushed him. 323 00:17:25,211 --> 00:17:29,680 And when hadrian came to britain in 122 a.D., 324 00:17:29,682 --> 00:17:32,383 He was determined that the northern tribes 325 00:17:32,385 --> 00:17:36,354 Would not get the better of him. 326 00:17:36,356 --> 00:17:38,656 Birley: So here we are at hadrian's wall, 327 00:17:38,658 --> 00:17:43,661 Created by 15,000 roman soldiers in a decade of hard work, 328 00:17:43,663 --> 00:17:47,899 Sweat, and tears, separating out people on this side -- 329 00:17:47,901 --> 00:17:50,068 Part of the roman empire -- for the other side, 330 00:17:50,070 --> 00:17:53,204 The barbarians to the north. 331 00:17:53,206 --> 00:17:56,607 Jerram: Large parts of it are built using the landscape 332 00:17:56,609 --> 00:17:58,409 As part of the defense. 333 00:17:58,411 --> 00:18:01,345 There's a big structure along large parts of the wall 334 00:18:01,347 --> 00:18:03,314 Called the whin sill. 335 00:18:03,316 --> 00:18:05,983 So you've not only got hadrian's wall to contend with. 336 00:18:05,985 --> 00:18:07,752 You've got this cliff of rock. 337 00:18:07,754 --> 00:18:12,290 What a formidable thing to try and get past. 338 00:18:12,292 --> 00:18:15,193 Narrator: The configuration of the site reveals how 339 00:18:15,195 --> 00:18:20,898 Hadrian's wall was designed to subjugate the rebellious picts. 340 00:18:20,900 --> 00:18:23,434 What we're looking at here is the power of the roman empire 341 00:18:23,436 --> 00:18:28,506 To impose its will on a landscape, on a people. 342 00:18:28,508 --> 00:18:30,108 Imagine this twice the height 343 00:18:30,110 --> 00:18:33,845 With a walkway, crenellations across the top. 344 00:18:33,847 --> 00:18:35,313 And even at nighttime, 345 00:18:35,315 --> 00:18:37,482 This would be so visible in the landscape. 346 00:18:37,484 --> 00:18:39,250 Would also be a wall of light. 347 00:18:39,252 --> 00:18:41,786 The soldiers with their torches would run across the top, 348 00:18:41,788 --> 00:18:45,256 Giving you this contrast between what's inside the roman empire 349 00:18:45,258 --> 00:18:46,891 And what's outside. 350 00:18:46,893 --> 00:18:48,759 Selwood: For those people who were looking at it 351 00:18:48,761 --> 00:18:51,462 From the north, on seeing this cutting-edge 352 00:18:51,464 --> 00:18:53,331 Roman military fortification, 353 00:18:53,333 --> 00:18:56,167 It must have been the most awe-inspiring sight, 354 00:18:56,169 --> 00:19:00,071 Unlike anything they'd ever seen. 355 00:19:00,073 --> 00:19:02,340 Narrator: Hadrian's wall was the most 356 00:19:02,342 --> 00:19:06,410 Unconquerable defense system in the world at the time. 357 00:19:08,414 --> 00:19:10,781 Birley: So every mile, you get two towers, 358 00:19:10,783 --> 00:19:14,952 Which command tremendous views right across as far as the eye 359 00:19:14,954 --> 00:19:17,755 Can see to the north, 30, 40 miles in some places. 360 00:19:17,757 --> 00:19:19,790 Nothing can get under the roman radar. 361 00:19:22,028 --> 00:19:25,596 Narrator: The romans built 16 defensive forts along the wall 362 00:19:25,598 --> 00:19:28,466 To keep the northern hordes at bay. 363 00:19:28,468 --> 00:19:32,637 But the stone ruins at vindolanda don't fit this story. 364 00:19:32,639 --> 00:19:37,108 The sprawling fortress sits a mile away from hadrian's wall. 365 00:19:40,013 --> 00:19:42,613 So was the unprecedented wall strong enough 366 00:19:42,615 --> 00:19:46,150 To protect the ancient letter writers who lived here, 367 00:19:46,152 --> 00:19:49,520 Or did they fall victim to the marauding picts? 368 00:19:52,425 --> 00:19:59,564 ♪ 369 00:19:59,566 --> 00:20:02,533 Narrator: Ruins of the roman fort of vindolanda 370 00:20:02,535 --> 00:20:03,801 In northern England 371 00:20:03,803 --> 00:20:08,873 Show that 2,000 years ago this place was thriving. 372 00:20:08,875 --> 00:20:11,842 Birley: The population numbers alone at this site range 373 00:20:11,844 --> 00:20:15,546 From 2,500 to 6,000 or 7,000 people. 374 00:20:15,548 --> 00:20:17,548 You had people from what is today belgium, 375 00:20:17,550 --> 00:20:21,452 People from modern germany, people from switzerland, 376 00:20:21,454 --> 00:20:26,390 Even north africa living and patrolling this area. 377 00:20:26,392 --> 00:20:29,660 Narrator: Rubble at the site reveals that vindolanda 378 00:20:29,662 --> 00:20:32,396 Was actually split into two parts, 379 00:20:32,398 --> 00:20:35,866 The fort itself and a bustling roman town. 380 00:20:35,868 --> 00:20:39,303 In their downtime, the soldiers manning hadrian's wall 381 00:20:39,305 --> 00:20:42,406 Retreated to vindolanda. 382 00:20:42,408 --> 00:20:44,675 Meigs: This was more like a small city. 383 00:20:44,677 --> 00:20:47,778 People were there with their wives and their children, 384 00:20:47,780 --> 00:20:51,315 And they were involved in farming and hunting 385 00:20:51,317 --> 00:20:53,150 And all kinds of activities. 386 00:20:53,152 --> 00:20:58,990 So it was more like a community than simply a military facility. 387 00:21:01,294 --> 00:21:03,094 Narrator: By the fourth century, 388 00:21:03,096 --> 00:21:05,529 The romans were severely overstretched 389 00:21:05,531 --> 00:21:09,467 And no longer had the appetite for faraway wars. 390 00:21:09,469 --> 00:21:14,839 Their vast empire declined and so did vindolanda. 391 00:21:14,841 --> 00:21:16,974 The ancient letters found here 392 00:21:16,976 --> 00:21:20,878 Were hastily destroyed by the romans as they retreated. 393 00:21:20,880 --> 00:21:22,446 Birley: They lit the bonfire. 394 00:21:22,448 --> 00:21:25,049 The rain had come along and put the bonfire out 395 00:21:25,051 --> 00:21:28,786 And made it impossible to burn, and then, 2,000 years later, 396 00:21:28,788 --> 00:21:30,621 We find the site of that bonfire, 397 00:21:30,623 --> 00:21:34,225 And all the letters are still sitting there in a heap. 398 00:21:34,227 --> 00:21:37,128 What they talk about is just sensational. 399 00:21:37,130 --> 00:21:41,265 Everything from demands for beer to birthday party invitations. 400 00:21:41,267 --> 00:21:42,733 They give the color and the detail, 401 00:21:42,735 --> 00:21:45,970 The shades of gray to life at vindolanda. 402 00:21:50,143 --> 00:21:53,611 Narrator: Today, vindolanda and hadrian's wall 403 00:21:53,613 --> 00:21:57,481 Stand as a reminder of the hubris and ambition 404 00:21:57,483 --> 00:21:59,950 Of the roman empire. 405 00:21:59,952 --> 00:22:01,719 Birley: You can look at it as an incredible monument 406 00:22:01,721 --> 00:22:04,622 To military architecture, the will of an empire. 407 00:22:04,624 --> 00:22:07,024 But, also, you can see it as a monument to failure, 408 00:22:07,026 --> 00:22:09,093 A monument to the fact that the roman army 409 00:22:09,095 --> 00:22:11,495 Never finished the job. 410 00:22:11,497 --> 00:22:15,499 They couldn't quite beat everybody in britain. 411 00:22:15,501 --> 00:22:20,271 ♪ 412 00:22:20,273 --> 00:22:24,141 Narrator: In the horn of africa, in eastern ethiopia, 413 00:22:24,143 --> 00:22:27,278 The city of dire dawa harbors is a site 414 00:22:27,280 --> 00:22:30,915 Crowded with relics that have hit the end of the line. 415 00:22:34,087 --> 00:22:38,289 It's a ghostly site that was clearly once full of life 416 00:22:38,291 --> 00:22:41,025 But is now abandoned, with all the people 417 00:22:41,027 --> 00:22:44,662 That were here mysteriously missing. 418 00:22:44,664 --> 00:22:49,433 There's something really quite spooky about it. 419 00:22:49,435 --> 00:22:52,636 Narrator: A closer inspection of this corroding place 420 00:22:52,638 --> 00:22:56,874 Reveals european fingerprints all over it. 421 00:22:56,876 --> 00:22:58,476 Barratt: We're in ethiopia, 422 00:22:58,478 --> 00:23:01,011 But we've got french signs hanging up. 423 00:23:01,013 --> 00:23:03,481 We've got locomotives abandoned, 424 00:23:03,483 --> 00:23:07,752 We've got bits of rolling stock and lines. 425 00:23:07,754 --> 00:23:12,089 Bell: A giant tooling shed, musty with dust and oil, 426 00:23:12,091 --> 00:23:14,959 Brimming with 50-year-old lathes 427 00:23:14,961 --> 00:23:18,462 And a brightly colored painted ticket office, 428 00:23:18,464 --> 00:23:19,997 Now empty. 429 00:23:19,999 --> 00:23:25,636 The once-vibrant paint peeling from its walls. 430 00:23:25,638 --> 00:23:28,706 Narrator: If this place was once part of a railroad, 431 00:23:28,708 --> 00:23:33,677 It was clearly the epicenter of a significant network. 432 00:23:33,679 --> 00:23:35,946 Barratt: Looking at the scale of this place, 433 00:23:35,948 --> 00:23:39,617 A huge amount of capital was invested. 434 00:23:39,619 --> 00:23:42,853 And now we see it covered in grime. 435 00:23:42,855 --> 00:23:45,322 It's a place where train enthusiasts 436 00:23:45,324 --> 00:23:47,658 Would love to explore. 437 00:23:47,660 --> 00:23:50,127 There are the trains, there are the signs. 438 00:23:50,129 --> 00:23:52,696 There's just a sense of history. 439 00:23:52,698 --> 00:23:55,099 Bell: Usually, when a rail line is decommissioned, 440 00:23:55,101 --> 00:23:57,868 The cars and equipment are sold off. 441 00:23:57,870 --> 00:24:02,440 But this harbor's remained, and the trains left abandoned. 442 00:24:02,442 --> 00:24:04,508 So what's their story? 443 00:24:04,510 --> 00:24:10,381 ♪ 444 00:24:10,383 --> 00:24:12,750 Narrator: The story of this train graveyard 445 00:24:12,752 --> 00:24:16,187 Can be traced back to the end of the 19th century 446 00:24:16,189 --> 00:24:18,756 To the vision of one man, 447 00:24:18,758 --> 00:24:23,127 Emperor menelik ii of ethiopia. 448 00:24:23,129 --> 00:24:26,297 Barratt: Ethiopia is a landlocked, barren state, 449 00:24:26,299 --> 00:24:30,267 But it has huge amounts of natural resources. 450 00:24:30,269 --> 00:24:32,336 But they were only going to help the people 451 00:24:32,338 --> 00:24:34,538 If they can be exploited. 452 00:24:34,540 --> 00:24:36,807 And at the turn of the 20th century, 453 00:24:36,809 --> 00:24:39,210 The emperor looked around and thought, 454 00:24:39,212 --> 00:24:42,913 How are other countries succeeding in moving forward? 455 00:24:42,915 --> 00:24:46,283 If you look at britain or america in the 19th century, 456 00:24:46,285 --> 00:24:48,219 What was the game changer? 457 00:24:48,221 --> 00:24:51,989 It was all about urbanization and industrialization, 458 00:24:51,991 --> 00:24:56,760 And at the heart of that were the railways. 459 00:24:56,762 --> 00:24:58,996 Mitchell: Emperor menelik really wanted to put ethiopia 460 00:24:58,998 --> 00:25:02,032 On the map with an impressive engineering project, 461 00:25:02,034 --> 00:25:04,768 And that was the railroad. 462 00:25:04,770 --> 00:25:06,103 Narrator: Menelik's railroad 463 00:25:06,105 --> 00:25:09,440 Would connect the ethiopian capital, addis ababa, 464 00:25:09,442 --> 00:25:15,613 And other major trading centers to the red sea port of djibouti. 465 00:25:15,615 --> 00:25:17,648 This provided a direct link to the coast 466 00:25:17,650 --> 00:25:19,717 Where goods could be exported. 467 00:25:21,954 --> 00:25:24,121 Narrator: This site is the remains 468 00:25:24,123 --> 00:25:26,724 Of the dire dawa railway terminus, 469 00:25:26,726 --> 00:25:29,760 Once pivotal to emperor menelik's 470 00:25:29,762 --> 00:25:34,164 Ethio-djibouti railway, but whoever built this place 471 00:25:34,166 --> 00:25:39,036 Left behind a distinctly european feel. 472 00:25:39,038 --> 00:25:42,239 67-year-old basha ali omer 473 00:25:42,241 --> 00:25:44,375 Has worked here all his life. 474 00:25:44,377 --> 00:25:48,245 He knows how to decode the mysteries of this junkyard site. 475 00:25:48,247 --> 00:25:51,982 His ability to speak french provides the first clue. 476 00:25:54,153 --> 00:25:56,053 [ speaking native language ] 477 00:25:56,055 --> 00:25:57,855 Interpreter: Once we'd learned that language, 478 00:25:57,857 --> 00:26:02,226 We could come here and get a job. 479 00:26:02,228 --> 00:26:06,196 We could work here then. 480 00:26:06,198 --> 00:26:09,533 Because everything the company did was done in french. 481 00:26:09,535 --> 00:26:13,637 ♪ 482 00:26:13,639 --> 00:26:16,440 So here we have the accounting office... 483 00:26:16,442 --> 00:26:20,110 Case office... 484 00:26:20,112 --> 00:26:22,947 And an inspector bureau. 485 00:26:22,949 --> 00:26:26,984 All of these are written in french. 486 00:26:26,986 --> 00:26:28,852 Narrator: Back when menelik ii 487 00:26:28,854 --> 00:26:31,488 Conceived the ethio-djibouti railway, 488 00:26:31,490 --> 00:26:35,426 European powers vied for control of africa, 489 00:26:35,428 --> 00:26:38,696 Menelik had just seen off an italian-attempted invasion, 490 00:26:38,698 --> 00:26:40,798 So decided to grant the concession 491 00:26:40,800 --> 00:26:44,935 To build his railroad to the french. 492 00:26:44,937 --> 00:26:48,405 The french came in to set up ethiopia's railways, 493 00:26:48,407 --> 00:26:52,176 And in 1897, they made a great start. 494 00:26:52,178 --> 00:26:56,580 The terminus at dire dawa opened in 1984 495 00:26:56,582 --> 00:26:59,083 And the city began to grow. 496 00:26:59,085 --> 00:27:02,453 [ speaking native language ] 497 00:27:02,455 --> 00:27:05,222 Interpreter: Dire dawa was founded because of this railway. 498 00:27:07,893 --> 00:27:12,229 Which carried both freight and passengers through here. 499 00:27:12,231 --> 00:27:16,066 They transported commodities like cereals from addis ababa 500 00:27:16,068 --> 00:27:18,202 And delivered them to dire dawa. 501 00:27:18,204 --> 00:27:20,471 Then it went back to djibouti 502 00:27:20,473 --> 00:27:24,408 And transported goods back to the port. 503 00:27:24,410 --> 00:27:26,377 Mitchell: Dire dawa had been a backwater. 504 00:27:26,379 --> 00:27:28,846 What the railroad does is it transforms it 505 00:27:28,848 --> 00:27:32,516 Into a hub that goods and people are going through. 506 00:27:32,518 --> 00:27:34,852 Barratt: What we see here has been repeated 507 00:27:34,854 --> 00:27:36,253 All across the world. 508 00:27:36,255 --> 00:27:39,123 You get a small village, but in the right place, 509 00:27:39,125 --> 00:27:40,991 And you put a railway through it, 510 00:27:40,993 --> 00:27:44,061 And suddenly, that village becomes bigger and bigger 511 00:27:44,063 --> 00:27:48,632 Until you got a bustling town supporting not only the railway 512 00:27:48,634 --> 00:27:52,536 But driving business, driving the economy. 513 00:27:52,538 --> 00:27:55,072 Narrator: When the line was finally completed, 514 00:27:55,074 --> 00:27:57,574 Four years after menelik's death, 515 00:27:57,576 --> 00:28:00,344 A once treacherous journey of many weeks 516 00:28:00,346 --> 00:28:03,814 Could now be made safely in 36 hours. 517 00:28:03,816 --> 00:28:07,051 Barratt: Took a while, but by 1917, 518 00:28:07,053 --> 00:28:09,386 Ethiopia had a bustling, 519 00:28:09,388 --> 00:28:13,290 Thriving railway network ready to be exploited 520 00:28:13,292 --> 00:28:15,626 By people and goods. 521 00:28:15,628 --> 00:28:20,497 At its peak, nearly 4,000 passengers and 1,250 tons 522 00:28:20,499 --> 00:28:24,902 Of cargo would pass through this station every single day. 523 00:28:24,904 --> 00:28:27,137 Bell: Racial segregation that was commonplace 524 00:28:27,139 --> 00:28:31,308 In many countries at the time wasn't tolerated in ethiopia. 525 00:28:31,310 --> 00:28:33,911 And so you had europeans and africans 526 00:28:33,913 --> 00:28:37,247 Sharing common areas on the passenger train. 527 00:28:37,249 --> 00:28:39,550 Hundreds of people, black and white, 528 00:28:39,552 --> 00:28:43,353 Traveling from here every day all together. 529 00:28:43,355 --> 00:28:47,858 ♪ 530 00:28:47,860 --> 00:28:51,762 Narrator: Menelik's vision for ethiopia was ahead of its time, 531 00:28:51,764 --> 00:28:54,231 But the skeletons in this train graveyard 532 00:28:54,233 --> 00:28:58,902 Suggest that the emperor's plan did not turn out as he dreamed. 533 00:29:00,906 --> 00:29:07,711 ♪ 534 00:29:07,713 --> 00:29:09,913 Narrator: Deep in the heart of ethiopia 535 00:29:09,915 --> 00:29:14,351 Lies the remains of the dire dawa railroad station. 536 00:29:14,353 --> 00:29:18,021 100 years ago, it was a thriving transport hub. 537 00:29:18,023 --> 00:29:21,992 So where did it all go wrong? 538 00:29:21,994 --> 00:29:24,161 Barratt: World war ii truly was a global war, 539 00:29:24,163 --> 00:29:26,063 And ethiopia didn't escape. 540 00:29:26,065 --> 00:29:29,967 The railway and the country were overtaken by italian fascists, 541 00:29:29,969 --> 00:29:33,837 And they used the railway network to transport people, 542 00:29:33,839 --> 00:29:35,539 Goods, and weapons, 543 00:29:35,541 --> 00:29:39,042 Including tanks, using the railway system. 544 00:29:39,044 --> 00:29:44,548 Narrator: In 1941, ethiopia was liberated by the allied forces, 545 00:29:44,550 --> 00:29:48,118 But the railroad still didn't revive. 546 00:29:48,120 --> 00:29:51,955 The end of world war ii triggered a global recession. 547 00:29:51,957 --> 00:29:57,161 The railway line, in particular, fell into disrepair, 548 00:29:57,163 --> 00:30:01,198 It limped along, but there was no reinvestment. 549 00:30:01,200 --> 00:30:04,768 Bell: The railway suffered another blow in 1977. 550 00:30:04,770 --> 00:30:07,504 As somali troops invaded ethiopia, 551 00:30:07,506 --> 00:30:11,508 They took control of the railway and dire dawa station. 552 00:30:11,510 --> 00:30:14,845 They blew up large portions of the railway, 553 00:30:14,847 --> 00:30:19,349 Meaning operations were again cut in half. 554 00:30:19,351 --> 00:30:22,386 Narrator: To add to this, in 1985, 555 00:30:22,388 --> 00:30:25,122 A terrible accident shook ethiopia. 556 00:30:25,124 --> 00:30:27,357 Barratt: A train was crossing a river 557 00:30:27,359 --> 00:30:30,260 On a curved bridge and derailed, 558 00:30:30,262 --> 00:30:35,365 And out of the 1,000 people on board, 400 people died. 559 00:30:35,367 --> 00:30:40,871 This is the worst rail accident that africa has ever suffered, 560 00:30:40,873 --> 00:30:44,775 And it's had a major effect on the network. 561 00:30:44,777 --> 00:30:47,144 Narrator: Today, a brand-new line 562 00:30:47,146 --> 00:30:50,280 Runs alongside the old railroad 563 00:30:50,282 --> 00:30:54,518 And the station at dire dawa is no longer needed. 564 00:30:54,520 --> 00:31:01,225 ♪ 565 00:31:01,227 --> 00:31:06,029 The ethio-djibouti railway represents a national dream 566 00:31:06,031 --> 00:31:09,499 Which may yet be revived. 567 00:31:09,501 --> 00:31:10,601 Bell: Plans are now afoot 568 00:31:10,603 --> 00:31:13,637 To reinvigorate ethiopia's rail network, 569 00:31:13,639 --> 00:31:17,407 Which the government hopes will kick-start industrialization, 570 00:31:17,409 --> 00:31:20,878 Transforming a poor agricultural nation 571 00:31:20,880 --> 00:31:23,680 Of nearly a 100,000,000 people 572 00:31:23,682 --> 00:31:27,718 Into a middle-income country by 2025. 573 00:31:27,720 --> 00:31:34,658 ♪ 574 00:31:34,660 --> 00:31:37,995 Narrator: In eastern europe, in the heart of lithuania 575 00:31:37,997 --> 00:31:40,597 Lies a ring of ruins that, at first sight, 576 00:31:40,599 --> 00:31:43,233 Seems to make little sense. 577 00:31:43,235 --> 00:31:48,171 ♪ 578 00:31:48,173 --> 00:31:50,207 Somara: If you were to be dropped into the middle 579 00:31:50,209 --> 00:31:52,809 Of this space, because of its vastness, 580 00:31:52,811 --> 00:31:57,514 It wouldn't really make sense as to what it actually is. 581 00:31:57,516 --> 00:31:59,283 Auerbach: This is one of those structures 582 00:31:59,285 --> 00:32:02,019 That you get a better idea from the air. 583 00:32:02,021 --> 00:32:04,321 You can see angular shapes, 584 00:32:04,323 --> 00:32:06,523 You can see the outlines of buildings. 585 00:32:08,360 --> 00:32:09,993 Narrator: On the ground, 586 00:32:09,995 --> 00:32:13,196 A series of mysterious features emerge. 587 00:32:13,198 --> 00:32:16,533 Auerbach: It's overgrown, there are plants everywhere, 588 00:32:16,535 --> 00:32:20,137 And there are these concrete mounds with large openings, 589 00:32:20,139 --> 00:32:22,639 But it's not clear where they lead to. 590 00:32:25,344 --> 00:32:28,412 Corum: You see long tunnels, many of them sloping 591 00:32:28,414 --> 00:32:30,614 And going in different directions. 592 00:32:30,616 --> 00:32:34,751 You see something of a dark interior maze. 593 00:32:34,753 --> 00:32:36,486 Somara: It's thick, black, 594 00:32:36,488 --> 00:32:39,523 And the smell is kind of damp and mossy, 595 00:32:39,525 --> 00:32:42,059 And it's actually a really spooky place. 596 00:32:44,763 --> 00:32:46,997 Narrator: Signs of violent struggle 597 00:32:46,999 --> 00:32:50,300 Linger ominously all around. 598 00:32:50,302 --> 00:32:57,140 This place clearly suffered from a major attack. 599 00:32:57,142 --> 00:33:01,478 The sense of damage and devastation is obvious. 600 00:33:01,480 --> 00:33:03,046 Somara: There are holes in the ceilings, 601 00:33:03,048 --> 00:33:08,919 Holes in the walls, and just debris everywhere. 602 00:33:08,921 --> 00:33:12,556 Auerbach: When you find out what really happened here, 603 00:33:12,558 --> 00:33:15,192 It just sends a chill down your spine. 604 00:33:15,194 --> 00:33:20,163 ♪ 605 00:33:20,165 --> 00:33:22,899 Narrator: The origins of this vast ruin date 606 00:33:22,901 --> 00:33:27,404 To a turbulent and bloody period of european history. 607 00:33:27,406 --> 00:33:31,475 What happened in this place was very, very significant 608 00:33:31,477 --> 00:33:35,612 And helped push the downfall of a great empire. 609 00:33:35,614 --> 00:33:37,347 Narrator: In the late 1800s, 610 00:33:37,349 --> 00:33:41,385 The area where this site is located was under russian rule. 611 00:33:41,387 --> 00:33:43,420 As the end of the century approached, 612 00:33:43,422 --> 00:33:46,356 Tensions between europe's superpowers were mounting, 613 00:33:46,358 --> 00:33:51,161 And this borderland region was the first to feel the heat. 614 00:33:51,163 --> 00:33:53,797 Germany, which had always been separated 615 00:33:53,799 --> 00:33:55,766 Into smaller kingdoms and states, 616 00:33:55,768 --> 00:34:01,938 Finally unified in 1871 and, for the first time in its history, 617 00:34:01,940 --> 00:34:06,943 The russian empire now had a single, powerful nation 618 00:34:06,945 --> 00:34:09,679 On its western border. 619 00:34:09,681 --> 00:34:13,550 Narrator: And when germany got a new emperor in 1888, 620 00:34:13,552 --> 00:34:17,387 He was no longer interested in the old alliance with russia. 621 00:34:17,389 --> 00:34:19,389 In anticipation of war, 622 00:34:19,391 --> 00:34:25,595 The russians built this -- the fortress of kaunas. 623 00:34:25,597 --> 00:34:28,965 The russian czar likes fortifications, 624 00:34:28,967 --> 00:34:32,269 So this idea of fortress cities comes into being and russia 625 00:34:32,271 --> 00:34:36,506 Will pour in a lot of its military wealth. 626 00:34:36,508 --> 00:34:40,410 Narrator: In 1882, construction began. 627 00:34:40,412 --> 00:34:43,547 Valdas rakutis is a local historian 628 00:34:43,549 --> 00:34:47,451 Fascinated by this structure's gory past. 629 00:34:47,453 --> 00:34:55,992 ♪ 630 00:34:55,994 --> 00:35:04,634 ♪ 631 00:35:04,636 --> 00:35:09,840 This was the golden age of fortress building. 632 00:35:09,842 --> 00:35:13,877 This is really the last time you see wide-scale, 633 00:35:13,879 --> 00:35:16,413 Large-scale building of fortresses. 634 00:35:16,415 --> 00:35:21,885 ♪ 635 00:35:21,887 --> 00:35:27,324 ♪ 636 00:35:27,326 --> 00:35:30,660 Auerbach: Basically, all roads lead to the city. 637 00:35:30,662 --> 00:35:32,596 You couldn't go around it. 638 00:35:32,598 --> 00:35:36,900 But the most important thing was that it was a rail nexus, 639 00:35:36,902 --> 00:35:39,603 And rail was the way to move troops 640 00:35:39,605 --> 00:35:42,873 And supplies in this period of warfare. 641 00:35:45,711 --> 00:35:47,544 Narrator: Kaunas was so vital, 642 00:35:47,546 --> 00:35:51,715 The russians didn't stop at one fort -- they built nine. 643 00:35:51,717 --> 00:35:53,950 Auerbach: You need to set up your fortifications 644 00:35:53,952 --> 00:35:55,552 So there's no safe approaches, 645 00:35:55,554 --> 00:35:57,053 So that every direction 646 00:35:57,055 --> 00:35:59,756 Is covered. 647 00:35:59,758 --> 00:36:01,825 Corum: When they were built, 648 00:36:01,827 --> 00:36:04,294 They were pretty much state of the art, 649 00:36:04,296 --> 00:36:07,664 But the state of the art in the late 1890s 650 00:36:07,666 --> 00:36:11,268 Was changing very rapidly. 651 00:36:11,270 --> 00:36:15,772 Somara: Every couple of years, this fortress had to be updated 652 00:36:15,774 --> 00:36:18,608 Because, within that short space of time, 653 00:36:18,610 --> 00:36:23,513 Technology was progressing, artillery was changing, 654 00:36:23,515 --> 00:36:27,951 And the threats were becoming more and more dangerous. 655 00:36:27,953 --> 00:36:31,755 Auerbach: Pretty soon, new weapons, airplanes, tanks -- 656 00:36:31,757 --> 00:36:35,258 They're gonna make fixed fortifications largely obsolete. 657 00:36:35,260 --> 00:36:40,163 ♪ 658 00:36:40,165 --> 00:36:42,499 Narrator: And when the first world war broke out 659 00:36:42,501 --> 00:36:46,469 Across europe, the 20th century's new weapons of war 660 00:36:46,471 --> 00:36:49,472 Would put the imperious fort to the test. 661 00:36:53,378 --> 00:37:00,350 ♪ 662 00:37:00,352 --> 00:37:02,185 Narrator: In the first world war, 663 00:37:02,187 --> 00:37:05,855 The bitter conflict between two of europe's great superpowers 664 00:37:05,857 --> 00:37:10,460 Was focused on the lithuanian fortress town of kaunas. 665 00:37:10,462 --> 00:37:13,697 The germans put all their might behind conquering 666 00:37:13,699 --> 00:37:15,498 The coveted fortress. 667 00:37:15,500 --> 00:37:18,802 Corum: The germans poured reinforcements into 668 00:37:18,804 --> 00:37:20,770 The northern part of their flank, 669 00:37:20,772 --> 00:37:25,442 And they moved down, and by August of 1915, 670 00:37:25,444 --> 00:37:29,346 They're now at the gates of kaunas. 671 00:37:29,348 --> 00:37:31,915 Auerbach: For 10 days, hell rained down 672 00:37:31,917 --> 00:37:33,984 On forts 1, 2, and 3. 673 00:37:36,188 --> 00:37:39,022 But fort 4 was supposed to be the toughest, 674 00:37:39,024 --> 00:37:41,224 Really the hardest nut to crack, 675 00:37:41,226 --> 00:37:43,526 And the russians were hoping the germans would focus 676 00:37:43,528 --> 00:37:46,329 Their efforts there, but they didn't. 677 00:37:46,331 --> 00:37:53,470 ♪ 678 00:37:53,472 --> 00:38:00,610 ♪ 679 00:38:00,612 --> 00:38:02,946 Narrator: With the german army bearing down 680 00:38:02,948 --> 00:38:05,448 And supported by superior weaponry, 681 00:38:05,450 --> 00:38:09,519 The weaker sections of the fortress didn't stand a chance. 682 00:38:09,521 --> 00:38:11,554 Auerbach: The most terrifying of these new weapons 683 00:38:11,556 --> 00:38:14,524 Was an artillery piece called "big bertha." 684 00:38:14,526 --> 00:38:20,297 And it fired a 17-inch artillery shell -- 17 inches! 685 00:38:20,299 --> 00:38:23,366 It was the largest artillery piece ever built. 686 00:38:23,368 --> 00:38:31,241 ♪ 687 00:38:31,243 --> 00:38:39,149 ♪ 688 00:38:39,151 --> 00:38:40,750 Somara: Once that breach was made, 689 00:38:40,752 --> 00:38:45,555 The germans flooded into the city and then took over. 690 00:38:45,557 --> 00:38:47,223 What is absolutely incredible 691 00:38:47,225 --> 00:38:51,294 Is that all those years of planning and construction 692 00:38:51,296 --> 00:38:57,100 Was not able to withstand a few days of concentrated attack. 693 00:38:57,102 --> 00:38:59,336 Narrator: The germans held much of lithuania 694 00:38:59,338 --> 00:39:02,038 Until the war's bitter conclusion. 695 00:39:02,040 --> 00:39:04,541 But even after german withdrawal, 696 00:39:04,543 --> 00:39:07,143 The suffering didn't end. 697 00:39:07,145 --> 00:39:09,846 Auerbach: When they left, there was a power vacuum, 698 00:39:09,848 --> 00:39:12,048 And you had to have three civil wars 699 00:39:12,050 --> 00:39:17,053 As lithuania finally established itself as a separate nation. 700 00:39:17,055 --> 00:39:21,758 But as much as there was violence and horror there, 701 00:39:21,760 --> 00:39:26,963 The darkest days of the fortress were yet to come. 702 00:39:26,965 --> 00:39:30,934 Narrator: As hitler's nazi war machine trampled its enemies, 703 00:39:30,936 --> 00:39:35,572 This site bore witness to unspeakable horrors. 704 00:39:35,574 --> 00:39:38,341 Auerbach: The forts are a perfect location 705 00:39:38,343 --> 00:39:42,412 For the perpetration of the worst of the german war crimes, 706 00:39:42,414 --> 00:39:44,781 Particularly those against civilians. 707 00:39:44,783 --> 00:39:48,284 They're out of the way. They're hidden. 708 00:39:48,286 --> 00:39:51,554 Somara: And that's exactly what made it, sadly, 709 00:39:51,556 --> 00:39:54,524 An ideal place for mass execution. 710 00:39:57,229 --> 00:39:59,796 Narrator: And lithuania's jewish population 711 00:39:59,798 --> 00:40:02,866 Suffered the greatest cruelty. 712 00:40:02,868 --> 00:40:09,205 ♪ 713 00:40:09,207 --> 00:40:15,578 ♪ 714 00:40:15,580 --> 00:40:21,451 Narrator: In a single day, over 1,800 jews were shot here. 715 00:40:21,453 --> 00:40:23,553 Tragically, this genocide 716 00:40:23,555 --> 00:40:28,024 Was echoed in the other forts around kaunas. 717 00:40:28,026 --> 00:40:30,226 Auerbach: Fort number 9 saw the worst 718 00:40:30,228 --> 00:40:32,228 Of these crimes against humanity. 719 00:40:32,230 --> 00:40:36,065 Tens of thousands were murdered in and around the fort. 720 00:40:39,404 --> 00:40:43,573 Narrator: As the end of the war drew closer, for one final time, 721 00:40:43,575 --> 00:40:46,843 The forts would be used for their intended purpose. 722 00:40:46,845 --> 00:40:50,547 Here, the nazis attempted to make a last stand 723 00:40:50,549 --> 00:40:55,285 Against the advancing forces of stalin's russia. 724 00:40:55,287 --> 00:40:57,086 Corum: These forts were useless 725 00:40:57,088 --> 00:41:01,024 Against a massive soviet tank force, 726 00:41:01,026 --> 00:41:05,028 And in fact, these fortresses that held out 727 00:41:05,030 --> 00:41:10,467 For 11 days in world war I fell in 45 minutes. 728 00:41:10,469 --> 00:41:12,902 Auerbach: And then the germans are driven out, 729 00:41:12,904 --> 00:41:16,172 But lithuania isn't going to find the independence 730 00:41:16,174 --> 00:41:18,741 It struggled so hard to achieve before the war. 731 00:41:18,743 --> 00:41:22,212 Instead, they're going to be facing a new occupation, 732 00:41:22,214 --> 00:41:23,546 That of the soviets, 733 00:41:23,548 --> 00:41:25,849 And that's gonna last for another half century. 734 00:41:25,851 --> 00:41:33,556 ♪ 735 00:41:33,558 --> 00:41:37,193 Narrator: In 1990, after the iron curtain fell, 736 00:41:37,195 --> 00:41:40,697 Lithuania finally became an independent nation. 737 00:41:40,699 --> 00:41:44,067 Now the abandoned forts serve as a reminder 738 00:41:44,069 --> 00:41:47,971 Of this resilient nation's tumultuous past. 739 00:41:47,973 --> 00:41:50,607 What can we find on this site today 740 00:41:50,609 --> 00:41:52,942 Besides the remnants of these fortifications? 741 00:41:52,944 --> 00:41:55,245 We find a memorial to all the lives 742 00:41:55,247 --> 00:41:57,413 That were lost there under the german occupation. 743 00:41:57,415 --> 00:42:04,153 ♪ 66927

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