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Narrator: An astonishing
treasure trove of trains
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00:00:06,240 --> 00:00:09,441
Hidden in the heart of africa...
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00:00:09,443 --> 00:00:13,912
Bell: It's like a train
graveyard with shrubs and earth
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00:00:13,914 --> 00:00:16,915
Gradually burying the remains.
5
00:00:19,387 --> 00:00:21,987
Narrator: ...A mystical complex
of structures
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00:00:21,989 --> 00:00:24,123
Shrouded in intrigue...
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00:00:24,125 --> 00:00:25,958
Selwood: Skulls have been found
at this site,
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00:00:25,960 --> 00:00:27,493
But they're not
to do with burials.
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00:00:27,495 --> 00:00:30,796
It's believed these
were taken as trophies.
10
00:00:30,798 --> 00:00:33,232
Narrator: ...And vast relics
of industry
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00:00:33,234 --> 00:00:36,001
Rusting in the american midwest.
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00:00:36,003 --> 00:00:38,470
This is just a small part
of what was here,
13
00:00:38,472 --> 00:00:41,607
Shows you the scale
of this facility.
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00:00:41,609 --> 00:00:47,646
♪
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00:00:47,648 --> 00:00:50,349
Narrator: Decaying relics,
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00:00:50,351 --> 00:00:53,585
Ruins of lost worlds,
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00:00:53,587 --> 00:00:56,321
Forged through years of toil,
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00:00:56,323 --> 00:00:59,024
Now haunted by the past,
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00:00:59,026 --> 00:01:02,728
Their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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00:01:02,730 --> 00:01:05,731
-- Captions by vitac --
www.Vitac.Com
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00:01:05,733 --> 00:01:08,734
Captions paid for by
discovery communications
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00:01:08,736 --> 00:01:17,676
♪
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00:01:17,678 --> 00:01:20,512
On the peaceful shores
of lake michigan,
24
00:01:20,514 --> 00:01:23,248
In the heart
of the american midwest,
25
00:01:23,250 --> 00:01:27,453
Stands a series of sites
with an intriguing past.
26
00:01:31,358 --> 00:01:33,692
Meigs: There's not much left
in the way of clues
27
00:01:33,694 --> 00:01:35,060
To tell you what it was for.
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00:01:35,062 --> 00:01:40,933
Clearly, when the site was
abandoned, it was stripped bare.
29
00:01:40,935 --> 00:01:43,669
This place has
a top secret feel to it.
30
00:01:43,671 --> 00:01:47,206
You know, you see the remains of
fencing topped with barbed wire.
31
00:01:47,208 --> 00:01:50,576
You see control towers
of some kind.
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00:01:50,578 --> 00:01:56,849
Why do we have plinths and
platforms with nothing on them?
33
00:01:56,851 --> 00:01:59,084
Wawro: And that, in turn, begs
the question,
34
00:01:59,086 --> 00:02:01,887
So what were these things for?
35
00:02:01,889 --> 00:02:03,956
Narrator: A scope of
the surrounding area
36
00:02:03,958 --> 00:02:07,292
Reveals something
more perplexing -- the remnants
37
00:02:07,294 --> 00:02:11,864
Of a second related site
lie covered in undergrowth.
38
00:02:11,866 --> 00:02:14,399
This site is, if anything,
even more mysterious.
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00:02:14,401 --> 00:02:16,568
You just have
this large concrete pad,
40
00:02:16,570 --> 00:02:20,506
And then these steel doors open
to something underground,
41
00:02:20,508 --> 00:02:22,875
But you can't see what.
42
00:02:22,877 --> 00:02:26,645
Narrator: What was so deadly
that it was kept underground
43
00:02:26,647 --> 00:02:29,348
At this disturbing site
in indiana.
44
00:02:29,350 --> 00:02:31,817
And what links
these two compounds
45
00:02:31,819 --> 00:02:35,754
To one of the most perilous
periods of american history?
46
00:02:38,092 --> 00:02:41,627
Local entrepreneur
virgil frey is keen to preserve
47
00:02:41,629 --> 00:02:45,330
The long forgotten buildings
of this cryptic site.
48
00:02:45,332 --> 00:02:47,366
Vestiges of a barrack suggest
49
00:02:47,368 --> 00:02:52,571
It was some kind of military
center back in the 1950s.
50
00:02:52,573 --> 00:02:54,239
This is the part
of the property that housed
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00:02:54,241 --> 00:02:57,342
Over 90 men
when it was an active base.
52
00:02:57,344 --> 00:02:59,878
We have 17 full buildings.
53
00:02:59,880 --> 00:03:01,246
The admin building.
54
00:03:01,248 --> 00:03:03,248
That's where the commander
would have been.
55
00:03:03,250 --> 00:03:05,384
We have two full
barracks buildings.
56
00:03:05,386 --> 00:03:07,085
We have a mess hall.
57
00:03:07,087 --> 00:03:10,822
We have a generator room
to produce power for the base.
58
00:03:10,824 --> 00:03:12,891
Narrator:
The true purpose of this place
59
00:03:12,893 --> 00:03:15,227
Was a well-guarded secret.
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00:03:15,229 --> 00:03:17,963
All 23 acres
were surrounded by barbed wire.
61
00:03:17,965 --> 00:03:19,498
There were dogs or kennels
62
00:03:19,500 --> 00:03:21,733
And extra security
that would be here.
63
00:03:21,735 --> 00:03:24,870
The general public knew
very little about the property
64
00:03:24,872 --> 00:03:26,738
And what went on here
at the time.
65
00:03:29,643 --> 00:03:31,476
Narrator: One building
on this site
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00:03:31,478 --> 00:03:34,913
Explains this level of security.
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00:03:34,915 --> 00:03:36,648
Frey: So this is
the communications building.
68
00:03:36,650 --> 00:03:39,251
So this building would
have housed racks
69
00:03:39,253 --> 00:03:41,987
And racks of computers.
70
00:03:41,989 --> 00:03:44,790
Narrator: This provides a clue
to what would have once
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00:03:44,792 --> 00:03:48,126
Topped the site's
five looming towers.
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00:03:48,128 --> 00:03:49,695
So each one of these
towers housed
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00:03:49,697 --> 00:03:51,163
A different set of radar.
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00:03:51,165 --> 00:03:52,631
When the base was active,
75
00:03:52,633 --> 00:03:56,068
There was dishes
along the top of that tower.
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00:03:56,070 --> 00:03:57,402
The key elements of the property
77
00:03:57,404 --> 00:03:59,638
Were really gathering
the information from the towers,
78
00:03:59,640 --> 00:04:02,741
Putting that together
in the communications room.
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00:04:02,743 --> 00:04:05,978
Wawro: So the towers themselves
are essentially platforms
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00:04:05,980 --> 00:04:10,349
For radar arrays
and communication systems.
81
00:04:12,453 --> 00:04:14,720
Narrator: But what was this
highly sophisticated
82
00:04:14,722 --> 00:04:18,490
Surveillance system
designed to detect?
83
00:04:18,492 --> 00:04:21,793
The answer can be found
almost a mile away
84
00:04:21,795 --> 00:04:24,162
At a second, more remote site
85
00:04:24,164 --> 00:04:27,933
With its ominous-looking doors
in the ground.
86
00:04:27,935 --> 00:04:30,535
Meigs: What we're looking at
here is the command
87
00:04:30,537 --> 00:04:33,105
And control center
for an installation
88
00:04:33,107 --> 00:04:38,744
Of very sophisticated
antiaircraft missiles.
89
00:04:38,746 --> 00:04:42,714
Narrator: This pair of derelict
sites worked in tandem.
90
00:04:42,716 --> 00:04:46,485
The first site was a listening
station and control center.
91
00:04:46,487 --> 00:04:49,655
Wawro: The radar sets will relay
the coordinates over
92
00:04:49,657 --> 00:04:52,291
To the launch site where
the missiles will be prepared.
93
00:04:52,293 --> 00:04:56,995
There's three of them
behind these steel doors.
94
00:04:56,997 --> 00:04:59,431
Narrator: The missiles launched
from the second site
95
00:04:59,433 --> 00:05:01,633
Were interceptors designed
96
00:05:01,635 --> 00:05:04,703
To take out
invading enemy aircraft.
97
00:05:08,409 --> 00:05:13,145
But why would anyone want
to attack the american midwest?
98
00:05:13,147 --> 00:05:17,015
A clue sits 10 miles away
from the missile sites
99
00:05:17,017 --> 00:05:20,218
In a vast industrial wasteland.
100
00:05:20,220 --> 00:05:22,721
These two areas of
abandoned infrastructure
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00:05:22,723 --> 00:05:24,356
Are linked in history.
102
00:05:24,358 --> 00:05:27,693
This whole region
is full of this kind of
103
00:05:27,695 --> 00:05:30,829
Abandoned infrastructure
on a very large scale.
104
00:05:30,831 --> 00:05:33,965
It looks like some
post-apocalyptic vision.
105
00:05:33,967 --> 00:05:37,336
What is the connection
between these sites?
106
00:05:37,338 --> 00:05:41,473
And did the same thing
destroy all of them?
107
00:05:41,475 --> 00:05:46,311
Narrator: The answer lies in the
history of this derelict place.
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00:05:46,313 --> 00:05:49,848
50 years ago,
it was a hive of activity.
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00:05:49,850 --> 00:05:53,385
This was really the beating
heart of american industry,
110
00:05:53,387 --> 00:05:56,788
This whole new industrial zone
created along the shores
111
00:05:56,790 --> 00:05:59,658
Of lake michigan near chicago.
112
00:05:59,660 --> 00:06:03,195
Narrator: And this is the town
of gary, indiana,
113
00:06:03,197 --> 00:06:06,031
Once dubbed the city
of the century.
114
00:06:06,033 --> 00:06:07,566
The colossal scale of this place
115
00:06:07,568 --> 00:06:12,537
Was born out of one hugely
prized product -- steel.
116
00:06:12,539 --> 00:06:14,840
Meigs:
When u.S. Steel set up shop
117
00:06:14,842 --> 00:06:17,642
On the banks
of lake michigan in 1906,
118
00:06:17,644 --> 00:06:20,912
That was really the start
of gary's rise
119
00:06:20,914 --> 00:06:23,648
To being an industrial
powerhouse and a region
120
00:06:23,650 --> 00:06:26,818
Of enormous strategic importance
to the country.
121
00:06:26,820 --> 00:06:30,889
It was vitally important
for the military, as well.
122
00:06:30,891 --> 00:06:33,325
Wawro: And in world war ii,
the steelworks at gary
123
00:06:33,327 --> 00:06:37,229
Are producing all the steel
needed for, you know, ships,
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00:06:37,231 --> 00:06:42,033
Planes, tanks, and all
the, you know, armaments of war.
125
00:06:42,035 --> 00:06:45,170
Gary is chosen as an industrial
site for many reasons.
126
00:06:45,172 --> 00:06:48,607
One of them is that it's immune
to enemy attack
127
00:06:48,609 --> 00:06:50,575
Because it's so far inland.
128
00:06:50,577 --> 00:06:53,478
Nusbacher: You could not
fly a plane
129
00:06:53,480 --> 00:06:58,750
From germany or japan
or russia to bomb
130
00:06:58,752 --> 00:07:01,620
Gary, indiana.
131
00:07:01,622 --> 00:07:03,688
Narrator: But after
the second world war,
132
00:07:03,690 --> 00:07:06,324
Tensions between the u.S.
And the soviet union
133
00:07:06,326 --> 00:07:08,226
Drove a fast-paced race
134
00:07:08,228 --> 00:07:12,130
For a technological
and military supremacy.
135
00:07:12,132 --> 00:07:14,266
And the u.S.S.R.
Soon came up with
136
00:07:14,268 --> 00:07:17,736
A long-range high-flying bomber.
137
00:07:17,738 --> 00:07:22,274
Nusbacher: If the soviets had
ordered an attack on america,
138
00:07:22,276 --> 00:07:27,279
Big soviet bomber aircraft
filled with nuclear weapons,
139
00:07:27,281 --> 00:07:31,550
Escorted by regiment after
regiment of fighter aircraft,
140
00:07:31,552 --> 00:07:34,619
Would have crossed north
over the pole
141
00:07:34,621 --> 00:07:38,657
And moved south towards
the american heartland.
142
00:07:38,659 --> 00:07:43,462
It starts to become possible
to nuke gary.
143
00:07:45,732 --> 00:07:47,265
Narrator:
The launch and control sites
144
00:07:47,267 --> 00:07:50,001
Now sinking
into the indiana shrubland
145
00:07:50,003 --> 00:07:54,272
Date back to that time when
150 million americans
146
00:07:54,274 --> 00:07:56,475
Were suddenly
living within range
147
00:07:56,477 --> 00:07:59,010
Of soviet nuclear warheads.
148
00:08:02,015 --> 00:08:03,615
The u.S. Military
149
00:08:03,617 --> 00:08:06,084
Had to defend
the american heartland,
150
00:08:06,086 --> 00:08:09,454
But did these overgrown sites
live up to the job?
151
00:08:13,360 --> 00:08:21,500
♪
152
00:08:21,502 --> 00:08:25,470
Narrator: In the 1950s,
this pair of dilapidated sites
153
00:08:25,472 --> 00:08:28,106
Concealed the capability
to blast
154
00:08:28,108 --> 00:08:31,543
State-of-the-art
soviet bombers out of the sky.
155
00:08:34,414 --> 00:08:39,484
These are the remains
of the nike missile project.
156
00:08:39,486 --> 00:08:41,419
Wawro: These nike missiles
were regarded
157
00:08:41,421 --> 00:08:44,389
As the ultimate
defensive measure
158
00:08:44,391 --> 00:08:47,459
Against the ultimate
soviet weapon at the time,
159
00:08:47,461 --> 00:08:51,162
The heavy bomber
coming in over the north pole.
160
00:08:51,164 --> 00:08:54,866
Narrator: There were more than
20 paired nike missile sites
161
00:08:54,868 --> 00:08:56,801
In the lake michigan area.
162
00:08:59,006 --> 00:09:02,507
This pair is nike c-47.
163
00:09:02,509 --> 00:09:06,444
Together, they were designed
to defend gary, indiana,
164
00:09:06,446 --> 00:09:08,914
And the dilapidated
communication room
165
00:09:08,916 --> 00:09:11,316
Was mission control.
166
00:09:11,318 --> 00:09:13,518
So, should the decision
have been made
167
00:09:13,520 --> 00:09:15,487
To actually launch a missile,
168
00:09:15,489 --> 00:09:18,323
This is where it would have
happened from.
169
00:09:18,325 --> 00:09:21,259
The missile that they would have
been firing obviously needs
170
00:09:21,261 --> 00:09:22,761
To strike that target,
171
00:09:22,763 --> 00:09:25,664
Or a lot of people's lives
are on the line.
172
00:09:25,666 --> 00:09:27,265
I couldn't imagine
how it must have felt
173
00:09:27,267 --> 00:09:29,401
To have to actually
make those decisions.
174
00:09:29,403 --> 00:09:32,604
I'm sure it would have
been tense at that moment.
175
00:09:32,606 --> 00:09:34,940
If you were a missile operator,
176
00:09:34,942 --> 00:09:37,142
A radar operator at
an installation like this,
177
00:09:37,144 --> 00:09:39,477
You really just get
one shot at it.
178
00:09:39,479 --> 00:09:44,649
And if they were asleep
at the switch, people could die.
179
00:09:46,653 --> 00:09:49,955
Narrator: But the advance of
the cold war technology race
180
00:09:49,957 --> 00:09:53,191
Meant that the missiles
of nike's c-47
181
00:09:53,193 --> 00:09:55,961
Were never called into action.
182
00:09:55,963 --> 00:09:57,796
Even as they were being built,
183
00:09:57,798 --> 00:10:01,099
The technology was changing
and the threat was changing.
184
00:10:01,101 --> 00:10:04,869
In the 1960s,
the soviet union
185
00:10:04,871 --> 00:10:09,374
Develops intercontinental
ballistic missiles.
186
00:10:09,376 --> 00:10:11,076
Meigs: There was no real defense
187
00:10:11,078 --> 00:10:13,612
Against an intercontinental
ballistic missile.
188
00:10:13,614 --> 00:10:18,249
That warhead would be coming in
from space at supersonic speeds.
189
00:10:18,251 --> 00:10:20,819
Wawro: Suddenly, this
cutting-edge defensive weapon
190
00:10:20,821 --> 00:10:22,120
Is no longer useful.
191
00:10:22,122 --> 00:10:25,924
And so what we see here
in the land around gary
192
00:10:25,926 --> 00:10:28,360
Is just a moment
in that history.
193
00:10:30,597 --> 00:10:32,330
Narrator:
And in the coming decades,
194
00:10:32,332 --> 00:10:34,766
The industry of gary, indiana,
195
00:10:34,768 --> 00:10:37,335
Would also be rendered obsolete.
196
00:10:37,337 --> 00:10:41,773
Not at the hands of communism,
but capitalist markets.
197
00:10:41,775 --> 00:10:43,942
Nusbacher: Nobody had to blow it
up with a nuclear weapon.
198
00:10:43,944 --> 00:10:48,913
The realities of economics
and politics changed gary
199
00:10:48,915 --> 00:10:52,784
Into the rubble
we see there today.
200
00:10:52,786 --> 00:10:55,020
These missile bases
201
00:10:55,022 --> 00:10:58,390
Were very much part
of the story of gary, indiana,
202
00:10:58,392 --> 00:11:01,192
Just as much
as those big factories.
203
00:11:01,194 --> 00:11:06,998
♪
204
00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:10,535
Narrator: Today, beyond
the industrial wasteland,
205
00:11:10,537 --> 00:11:12,637
Encroaching undergrowth engulfs
206
00:11:12,639 --> 00:11:16,775
The once-cutting-edge
defense system.
207
00:11:16,777 --> 00:11:18,743
The place is a real monument
208
00:11:18,745 --> 00:11:21,846
To the pace of technological
change during the cold war.
209
00:11:21,848 --> 00:11:27,152
♪
210
00:11:27,154 --> 00:11:28,853
Narrator:
In the north of England,
211
00:11:28,855 --> 00:11:31,356
A collection
of crumbling structures
212
00:11:31,358 --> 00:11:34,826
Once marked the edge
of the known world.
213
00:11:34,828 --> 00:11:39,597
♪
214
00:11:39,599 --> 00:11:43,068
Selwood:
Britain represented something
that was unknown, barbaric.
215
00:11:43,070 --> 00:11:47,839
It was a place of myth
and speculation and mystery.
216
00:11:47,841 --> 00:11:50,141
Meigs: Here and there you see
217
00:11:50,143 --> 00:11:52,043
The remnants of stone
foundations.
218
00:11:52,045 --> 00:11:55,146
It suggests something
significant was built here.
219
00:11:55,148 --> 00:11:58,283
Jerram: This site is located
amongst a sort of network
220
00:11:58,285 --> 00:12:00,185
Of streams and waterways.
221
00:12:00,187 --> 00:12:03,321
Could have sustained quite
a lot of people living there.
222
00:12:03,323 --> 00:12:07,092
Narrator: But any trace of those
who walked these stone pathways
223
00:12:07,094 --> 00:12:09,994
Has long since vanished.
224
00:12:09,996 --> 00:12:13,298
Whoever built this put a lot
of engineering ingenuity
225
00:12:13,300 --> 00:12:15,767
And craftsmanship
into building this.
226
00:12:15,769 --> 00:12:19,037
You have a commanding view
of the whole region,
227
00:12:19,039 --> 00:12:22,107
Which suggests
that it had military importance.
228
00:12:26,480 --> 00:12:30,782
We're less than a mile from
a major defensive structure.
229
00:12:30,784 --> 00:12:33,351
Selwood: The vast wall was
designed to protect those
230
00:12:33,353 --> 00:12:36,221
In the south from the people
to the north,
231
00:12:36,223 --> 00:12:38,056
But the question this poses is
232
00:12:38,058 --> 00:12:40,391
Who was these people
to the north of the wall?
233
00:12:40,393 --> 00:12:43,928
Narrator: Evidence suggests
that beyond this wall
234
00:12:43,930 --> 00:12:48,099
Lived a feared painted people.
235
00:12:48,101 --> 00:12:52,036
Jerram: This is really venturing
into the dark and mysterious.
236
00:12:52,038 --> 00:12:55,073
And you could imagine that it
would have been both exciting,
237
00:12:55,075 --> 00:12:57,475
But also quite scary.
238
00:12:57,477 --> 00:12:59,811
Narrator: Further excavation
reveals oppression
239
00:12:59,813 --> 00:13:02,213
And treachery
were at play here.
240
00:13:02,215 --> 00:13:04,048
Skulls have been found
at this site,
241
00:13:04,050 --> 00:13:05,617
But they're not
to do with burials.
242
00:13:05,619 --> 00:13:08,019
It's believed
these were taken as trophies.
243
00:13:08,021 --> 00:13:10,121
These foundations
are just the surface.
244
00:13:10,123 --> 00:13:15,126
Underneath is an epic
and bloody history.
245
00:13:15,128 --> 00:13:17,495
Narrator: What links
the monumental wall
246
00:13:17,497 --> 00:13:20,398
That cuts through the wilds
of northern England
247
00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:23,301
To this eerie abandoned place?
248
00:13:23,303 --> 00:13:29,307
♪
249
00:13:29,309 --> 00:13:34,145
This ancient site
is known as vindolanda.
250
00:13:34,147 --> 00:13:37,115
Archaeologist andrew birley
has spent his life
251
00:13:37,117 --> 00:13:39,117
Figuring out what went on here,
252
00:13:39,119 --> 00:13:42,387
Like his father
and grandfather before him.
253
00:13:44,457 --> 00:13:47,192
Birley: It's given up a huge
number of its secrets.
254
00:13:47,194 --> 00:13:49,160
Most secrets have changed
our perceptions.
255
00:13:49,162 --> 00:13:51,696
The more and more work we do,
the more we start to understand
256
00:13:51,698 --> 00:13:55,733
About what happened here
almost two thousand years ago.
257
00:13:55,735 --> 00:13:57,268
Narrator: Relics of walls,
258
00:13:57,270 --> 00:14:01,005
Broken steps, and remnants
of strange foundations
259
00:14:01,007 --> 00:14:05,643
Provide the barest outline
of what once stood here.
260
00:14:05,645 --> 00:14:10,048
This building here has got about
20 rooms on the ground floor.
261
00:14:10,050 --> 00:14:12,550
Really,
really impressive.
262
00:14:12,552 --> 00:14:15,553
Digging deep between
these desolate ruins,
263
00:14:15,555 --> 00:14:18,756
Andrew's father unearthed
an incredible clue
264
00:14:18,758 --> 00:14:20,925
As to who lived here.
265
00:14:20,927 --> 00:14:24,229
We found the remains
of a bonfire site,
266
00:14:24,231 --> 00:14:28,666
And included on that bonfire
was something like 320 or 330
267
00:14:28,668 --> 00:14:30,635
Letters, documents.
268
00:14:33,339 --> 00:14:37,775
Narrator: Who carved out these
ancient words two millennia ago?
269
00:14:37,777 --> 00:14:40,211
And why did they vanish?
270
00:14:43,216 --> 00:14:50,321
♪
271
00:14:50,323 --> 00:14:53,157
Narrator: On a windy outcrop
in northern England,
272
00:14:53,159 --> 00:14:56,194
The ancient ruins of vindolanda
are giving up
273
00:14:56,196 --> 00:14:58,997
Tantalizing secrets
from the past.
274
00:14:58,999 --> 00:15:02,467
The biggest indication
as to who built this site lies
275
00:15:02,469 --> 00:15:06,905
Not within it,
but scattered all around.
276
00:15:06,907 --> 00:15:08,339
Nearby, you've got this long,
277
00:15:08,341 --> 00:15:10,608
Straight road running
from east to west,
278
00:15:10,610 --> 00:15:12,443
And that might give us
an indication
279
00:15:12,445 --> 00:15:15,546
As to who built this and why.
280
00:15:15,548 --> 00:15:19,017
Narrator: Back then, the only
people to build roads like this
281
00:15:19,019 --> 00:15:20,852
Where the romans.
282
00:15:20,854 --> 00:15:22,887
Birley: I'm standing here on
one of the major roman roads.
283
00:15:22,889 --> 00:15:25,990
On either side of me,
solid walls of stone,
284
00:15:25,992 --> 00:15:30,028
Solid pavement of stone, and a
very big door at the far end.
285
00:15:30,030 --> 00:15:32,797
Narrator:
In the location of vindolanda
286
00:15:32,799 --> 00:15:36,234
Indicates a military purpose.
287
00:15:36,236 --> 00:15:40,271
Vindolanda sits on the border
between England and scotland,
288
00:15:40,273 --> 00:15:43,141
At the northern edge
of the roman empire,
289
00:15:43,143 --> 00:15:48,012
Which once spread from northern
britain to the middle east.
290
00:15:48,014 --> 00:15:51,249
So vindolanda was
a frontier conquest fort.
291
00:15:51,251 --> 00:15:54,118
So when the roman army conquered
this part of the landscape,
292
00:15:54,120 --> 00:15:55,420
They put a fort down here
293
00:15:55,422 --> 00:15:57,822
As part of something
called the roman frontier.
294
00:15:57,824 --> 00:16:00,191
So wherever you go inside
this fort,
295
00:16:00,193 --> 00:16:04,595
You're reminded of structure,
rank, status,
296
00:16:04,597 --> 00:16:06,931
And the huge impact of rome.
297
00:16:09,903 --> 00:16:12,737
For the romans, britain was
beyond the known world.
298
00:16:12,739 --> 00:16:14,205
It was a land of mystery.
299
00:16:14,207 --> 00:16:16,207
It was a land
where things were unknown.
300
00:16:16,209 --> 00:16:18,209
It was a place
where they speculated
301
00:16:18,211 --> 00:16:21,079
About myth and mystery.
302
00:16:21,081 --> 00:16:24,315
Narrator: They were especially
terrified of the warring
303
00:16:24,317 --> 00:16:26,551
Barbarians of the north.
304
00:16:26,553 --> 00:16:28,519
Selwood: The romans called
the people north of the wall
305
00:16:28,521 --> 00:16:30,455
"the painted people," picti,
306
00:16:30,457 --> 00:16:32,423
From where we get
the word "picts."
307
00:16:32,425 --> 00:16:34,025
They thought they were
deeply uncivilized
308
00:16:34,027 --> 00:16:39,163
But respected them as great
and fearsome warriors.
309
00:16:39,165 --> 00:16:41,833
Narrator: Evidence of how
the romans tried to control
310
00:16:41,835 --> 00:16:47,505
The northern tribes
lies within sight of vindolanda.
311
00:16:47,507 --> 00:16:49,841
Jerram: As you sort of rise up
and look into the distance,
312
00:16:49,843 --> 00:16:52,443
You can see the walls
snaking along the landscape,
313
00:16:52,445 --> 00:16:55,580
Using every sort of nook
and cranny of the landscape
314
00:16:55,582 --> 00:16:58,282
To help fortify its protection.
315
00:16:58,284 --> 00:17:00,418
Selwood: The vast wall
runs across the whole
316
00:17:00,420 --> 00:17:04,155
Of northern britain
from coast to coast.
317
00:17:04,157 --> 00:17:08,426
Narrator: This extraordinary
73-mile long construction
318
00:17:08,428 --> 00:17:10,461
Is hadrian's wall.
319
00:17:10,463 --> 00:17:15,433
It was built by one of rome's
most ruthless emperors.
320
00:17:15,435 --> 00:17:17,668
Hadrian was
a volatile character.
321
00:17:17,670 --> 00:17:19,804
It's said that his boyfriend
jumped into the river,
322
00:17:19,806 --> 00:17:22,907
But many also said that
it was hadrian who pushed him.
323
00:17:25,211 --> 00:17:29,680
And when hadrian came
to britain in 122 a.D.,
324
00:17:29,682 --> 00:17:32,383
He was determined that
the northern tribes
325
00:17:32,385 --> 00:17:36,354
Would not get the better of him.
326
00:17:36,356 --> 00:17:38,656
Birley: So here we are at
hadrian's wall,
327
00:17:38,658 --> 00:17:43,661
Created by 15,000 roman soldiers
in a decade of hard work,
328
00:17:43,663 --> 00:17:47,899
Sweat, and tears, separating
out people on this side --
329
00:17:47,901 --> 00:17:50,068
Part of the roman empire --
for the other side,
330
00:17:50,070 --> 00:17:53,204
The barbarians to the north.
331
00:17:53,206 --> 00:17:56,607
Jerram: Large parts of it are
built using the landscape
332
00:17:56,609 --> 00:17:58,409
As part of the defense.
333
00:17:58,411 --> 00:18:01,345
There's a big structure
along large parts of the wall
334
00:18:01,347 --> 00:18:03,314
Called the whin sill.
335
00:18:03,316 --> 00:18:05,983
So you've not only got
hadrian's wall to contend with.
336
00:18:05,985 --> 00:18:07,752
You've got this cliff of rock.
337
00:18:07,754 --> 00:18:12,290
What a formidable thing
to try and get past.
338
00:18:12,292 --> 00:18:15,193
Narrator: The configuration of
the site reveals how
339
00:18:15,195 --> 00:18:20,898
Hadrian's wall was designed to
subjugate the rebellious picts.
340
00:18:20,900 --> 00:18:23,434
What we're looking at here is
the power of the roman empire
341
00:18:23,436 --> 00:18:28,506
To impose its will
on a landscape, on a people.
342
00:18:28,508 --> 00:18:30,108
Imagine this twice
the height
343
00:18:30,110 --> 00:18:33,845
With a walkway,
crenellations across the top.
344
00:18:33,847 --> 00:18:35,313
And even at nighttime,
345
00:18:35,315 --> 00:18:37,482
This would be so visible
in the landscape.
346
00:18:37,484 --> 00:18:39,250
Would also be a wall of light.
347
00:18:39,252 --> 00:18:41,786
The soldiers with their torches
would run across the top,
348
00:18:41,788 --> 00:18:45,256
Giving you this contrast between
what's inside the roman empire
349
00:18:45,258 --> 00:18:46,891
And what's outside.
350
00:18:46,893 --> 00:18:48,759
Selwood: For those people who
were looking at it
351
00:18:48,761 --> 00:18:51,462
From the north,
on seeing this cutting-edge
352
00:18:51,464 --> 00:18:53,331
Roman military fortification,
353
00:18:53,333 --> 00:18:56,167
It must have been the most
awe-inspiring sight,
354
00:18:56,169 --> 00:19:00,071
Unlike anything
they'd ever seen.
355
00:19:00,073 --> 00:19:02,340
Narrator: Hadrian's wall
was the most
356
00:19:02,342 --> 00:19:06,410
Unconquerable defense system
in the world at the time.
357
00:19:08,414 --> 00:19:10,781
Birley: So every mile,
you get two towers,
358
00:19:10,783 --> 00:19:14,952
Which command tremendous views
right across as far as the eye
359
00:19:14,954 --> 00:19:17,755
Can see to the north,
30, 40 miles in some places.
360
00:19:17,757 --> 00:19:19,790
Nothing can get under
the roman radar.
361
00:19:22,028 --> 00:19:25,596
Narrator: The romans built 16
defensive forts along the wall
362
00:19:25,598 --> 00:19:28,466
To keep the northern
hordes at bay.
363
00:19:28,468 --> 00:19:32,637
But the stone ruins at
vindolanda don't fit this story.
364
00:19:32,639 --> 00:19:37,108
The sprawling fortress sits
a mile away from hadrian's wall.
365
00:19:40,013 --> 00:19:42,613
So was the unprecedented wall
strong enough
366
00:19:42,615 --> 00:19:46,150
To protect the ancient
letter writers who lived here,
367
00:19:46,152 --> 00:19:49,520
Or did they fall victim
to the marauding picts?
368
00:19:52,425 --> 00:19:59,564
♪
369
00:19:59,566 --> 00:20:02,533
Narrator: Ruins of the roman
fort of vindolanda
370
00:20:02,535 --> 00:20:03,801
In northern England
371
00:20:03,803 --> 00:20:08,873
Show that 2,000 years ago
this place was thriving.
372
00:20:08,875 --> 00:20:11,842
Birley: The population numbers
alone at this site range
373
00:20:11,844 --> 00:20:15,546
From 2,500 to 6,000
or 7,000 people.
374
00:20:15,548 --> 00:20:17,548
You had people
from what is today belgium,
375
00:20:17,550 --> 00:20:21,452
People from modern germany,
people from switzerland,
376
00:20:21,454 --> 00:20:26,390
Even north africa living
and patrolling this area.
377
00:20:26,392 --> 00:20:29,660
Narrator: Rubble at the site
reveals that vindolanda
378
00:20:29,662 --> 00:20:32,396
Was actually split
into two parts,
379
00:20:32,398 --> 00:20:35,866
The fort itself
and a bustling roman town.
380
00:20:35,868 --> 00:20:39,303
In their downtime, the soldiers
manning hadrian's wall
381
00:20:39,305 --> 00:20:42,406
Retreated to vindolanda.
382
00:20:42,408 --> 00:20:44,675
Meigs: This was more
like a small city.
383
00:20:44,677 --> 00:20:47,778
People were there with their
wives and their children,
384
00:20:47,780 --> 00:20:51,315
And they were involved
in farming and hunting
385
00:20:51,317 --> 00:20:53,150
And all kinds of activities.
386
00:20:53,152 --> 00:20:58,990
So it was more like a community
than simply a military facility.
387
00:21:01,294 --> 00:21:03,094
Narrator: By the fourth century,
388
00:21:03,096 --> 00:21:05,529
The romans were
severely overstretched
389
00:21:05,531 --> 00:21:09,467
And no longer had the appetite
for faraway wars.
390
00:21:09,469 --> 00:21:14,839
Their vast empire declined
and so did vindolanda.
391
00:21:14,841 --> 00:21:16,974
The ancient letters found here
392
00:21:16,976 --> 00:21:20,878
Were hastily destroyed
by the romans as they retreated.
393
00:21:20,880 --> 00:21:22,446
Birley: They lit the bonfire.
394
00:21:22,448 --> 00:21:25,049
The rain had come along
and put the bonfire out
395
00:21:25,051 --> 00:21:28,786
And made it impossible to burn,
and then, 2,000 years later,
396
00:21:28,788 --> 00:21:30,621
We find the site
of that bonfire,
397
00:21:30,623 --> 00:21:34,225
And all the letters are still
sitting there in a heap.
398
00:21:34,227 --> 00:21:37,128
What they talk about
is just sensational.
399
00:21:37,130 --> 00:21:41,265
Everything from demands for beer
to birthday party invitations.
400
00:21:41,267 --> 00:21:42,733
They give the color
and the detail,
401
00:21:42,735 --> 00:21:45,970
The shades of gray
to life at vindolanda.
402
00:21:50,143 --> 00:21:53,611
Narrator: Today, vindolanda
and hadrian's wall
403
00:21:53,613 --> 00:21:57,481
Stand as a reminder
of the hubris and ambition
404
00:21:57,483 --> 00:21:59,950
Of the roman empire.
405
00:21:59,952 --> 00:22:01,719
Birley: You can look at it
as an incredible monument
406
00:22:01,721 --> 00:22:04,622
To military architecture,
the will of an empire.
407
00:22:04,624 --> 00:22:07,024
But, also, you can see it
as a monument to failure,
408
00:22:07,026 --> 00:22:09,093
A monument to the fact
that the roman army
409
00:22:09,095 --> 00:22:11,495
Never finished the job.
410
00:22:11,497 --> 00:22:15,499
They couldn't quite beat
everybody in britain.
411
00:22:15,501 --> 00:22:20,271
♪
412
00:22:20,273 --> 00:22:24,141
Narrator: In the horn of africa,
in eastern ethiopia,
413
00:22:24,143 --> 00:22:27,278
The city of dire dawa harbors
is a site
414
00:22:27,280 --> 00:22:30,915
Crowded with relics that have
hit the end of the line.
415
00:22:34,087 --> 00:22:38,289
It's a ghostly site that was
clearly once full of life
416
00:22:38,291 --> 00:22:41,025
But is now abandoned,
with all the people
417
00:22:41,027 --> 00:22:44,662
That were here
mysteriously missing.
418
00:22:44,664 --> 00:22:49,433
There's something really
quite spooky about it.
419
00:22:49,435 --> 00:22:52,636
Narrator: A closer inspection of
this corroding place
420
00:22:52,638 --> 00:22:56,874
Reveals european fingerprints
all over it.
421
00:22:56,876 --> 00:22:58,476
Barratt: We're in ethiopia,
422
00:22:58,478 --> 00:23:01,011
But we've got
french signs hanging up.
423
00:23:01,013 --> 00:23:03,481
We've got locomotives abandoned,
424
00:23:03,483 --> 00:23:07,752
We've got bits of
rolling stock and lines.
425
00:23:07,754 --> 00:23:12,089
Bell: A giant tooling shed,
musty with dust and oil,
426
00:23:12,091 --> 00:23:14,959
Brimming with 50-year-old lathes
427
00:23:14,961 --> 00:23:18,462
And a brightly colored
painted ticket office,
428
00:23:18,464 --> 00:23:19,997
Now empty.
429
00:23:19,999 --> 00:23:25,636
The once-vibrant paint
peeling from its walls.
430
00:23:25,638 --> 00:23:28,706
Narrator: If this place was once
part of a railroad,
431
00:23:28,708 --> 00:23:33,677
It was clearly the epicenter
of a significant network.
432
00:23:33,679 --> 00:23:35,946
Barratt: Looking at the scale
of this place,
433
00:23:35,948 --> 00:23:39,617
A huge amount of capital
was invested.
434
00:23:39,619 --> 00:23:42,853
And now we see
it covered in grime.
435
00:23:42,855 --> 00:23:45,322
It's a place where
train enthusiasts
436
00:23:45,324 --> 00:23:47,658
Would love to explore.
437
00:23:47,660 --> 00:23:50,127
There are the trains,
there are the signs.
438
00:23:50,129 --> 00:23:52,696
There's just a sense of history.
439
00:23:52,698 --> 00:23:55,099
Bell: Usually, when a rail line
is decommissioned,
440
00:23:55,101 --> 00:23:57,868
The cars and equipment
are sold off.
441
00:23:57,870 --> 00:24:02,440
But this harbor's remained,
and the trains left abandoned.
442
00:24:02,442 --> 00:24:04,508
So what's their story?
443
00:24:04,510 --> 00:24:10,381
♪
444
00:24:10,383 --> 00:24:12,750
Narrator: The story of this
train graveyard
445
00:24:12,752 --> 00:24:16,187
Can be traced back
to the end of the 19th century
446
00:24:16,189 --> 00:24:18,756
To the vision of one man,
447
00:24:18,758 --> 00:24:23,127
Emperor menelik ii
of ethiopia.
448
00:24:23,129 --> 00:24:26,297
Barratt: Ethiopia is
a landlocked, barren state,
449
00:24:26,299 --> 00:24:30,267
But it has huge amounts
of natural resources.
450
00:24:30,269 --> 00:24:32,336
But they were only
going to help the people
451
00:24:32,338 --> 00:24:34,538
If they can be exploited.
452
00:24:34,540 --> 00:24:36,807
And at the turn of
the 20th century,
453
00:24:36,809 --> 00:24:39,210
The emperor looked around
and thought,
454
00:24:39,212 --> 00:24:42,913
How are other countries
succeeding in moving forward?
455
00:24:42,915 --> 00:24:46,283
If you look at britain
or america in the 19th century,
456
00:24:46,285 --> 00:24:48,219
What was the game changer?
457
00:24:48,221 --> 00:24:51,989
It was all about urbanization
and industrialization,
458
00:24:51,991 --> 00:24:56,760
And at the heart of that
were the railways.
459
00:24:56,762 --> 00:24:58,996
Mitchell: Emperor menelik
really wanted to put ethiopia
460
00:24:58,998 --> 00:25:02,032
On the map with an impressive
engineering project,
461
00:25:02,034 --> 00:25:04,768
And that was the railroad.
462
00:25:04,770 --> 00:25:06,103
Narrator: Menelik's railroad
463
00:25:06,105 --> 00:25:09,440
Would connect the ethiopian
capital, addis ababa,
464
00:25:09,442 --> 00:25:15,613
And other major trading centers
to the red sea port of djibouti.
465
00:25:15,615 --> 00:25:17,648
This provided a direct link
to the coast
466
00:25:17,650 --> 00:25:19,717
Where goods could be exported.
467
00:25:21,954 --> 00:25:24,121
Narrator: This site is
the remains
468
00:25:24,123 --> 00:25:26,724
Of the dire dawa
railway terminus,
469
00:25:26,726 --> 00:25:29,760
Once pivotal to
emperor menelik's
470
00:25:29,762 --> 00:25:34,164
Ethio-djibouti railway,
but whoever built this place
471
00:25:34,166 --> 00:25:39,036
Left behind a distinctly
european feel.
472
00:25:39,038 --> 00:25:42,239
67-year-old basha ali omer
473
00:25:42,241 --> 00:25:44,375
Has worked here all his life.
474
00:25:44,377 --> 00:25:48,245
He knows how to decode the
mysteries of this junkyard site.
475
00:25:48,247 --> 00:25:51,982
His ability to speak french
provides the first clue.
476
00:25:54,153 --> 00:25:56,053
[ speaking native language ]
477
00:25:56,055 --> 00:25:57,855
Interpreter: Once we'd learned
that language,
478
00:25:57,857 --> 00:26:02,226
We could come here
and get a job.
479
00:26:02,228 --> 00:26:06,196
We could work here then.
480
00:26:06,198 --> 00:26:09,533
Because everything the company
did was done in french.
481
00:26:09,535 --> 00:26:13,637
♪
482
00:26:13,639 --> 00:26:16,440
So here we have
the accounting office...
483
00:26:16,442 --> 00:26:20,110
Case office...
484
00:26:20,112 --> 00:26:22,947
And an inspector bureau.
485
00:26:22,949 --> 00:26:26,984
All of these
are written in french.
486
00:26:26,986 --> 00:26:28,852
Narrator: Back when menelik ii
487
00:26:28,854 --> 00:26:31,488
Conceived
the ethio-djibouti railway,
488
00:26:31,490 --> 00:26:35,426
European powers vied
for control of africa,
489
00:26:35,428 --> 00:26:38,696
Menelik had just seen off
an italian-attempted invasion,
490
00:26:38,698 --> 00:26:40,798
So decided to grant
the concession
491
00:26:40,800 --> 00:26:44,935
To build his railroad
to the french.
492
00:26:44,937 --> 00:26:48,405
The french came in
to set up ethiopia's railways,
493
00:26:48,407 --> 00:26:52,176
And in 1897,
they made a great start.
494
00:26:52,178 --> 00:26:56,580
The terminus at dire dawa
opened in 1984
495
00:26:56,582 --> 00:26:59,083
And the city began to grow.
496
00:26:59,085 --> 00:27:02,453
[ speaking native language ]
497
00:27:02,455 --> 00:27:05,222
Interpreter: Dire dawa was
founded because of this railway.
498
00:27:07,893 --> 00:27:12,229
Which carried both freight
and passengers through here.
499
00:27:12,231 --> 00:27:16,066
They transported commodities
like cereals from addis ababa
500
00:27:16,068 --> 00:27:18,202
And delivered them to dire dawa.
501
00:27:18,204 --> 00:27:20,471
Then it went back to djibouti
502
00:27:20,473 --> 00:27:24,408
And transported goods back
to the port.
503
00:27:24,410 --> 00:27:26,377
Mitchell: Dire dawa had been
a backwater.
504
00:27:26,379 --> 00:27:28,846
What the railroad does is
it transforms it
505
00:27:28,848 --> 00:27:32,516
Into a hub that goods
and people are going through.
506
00:27:32,518 --> 00:27:34,852
Barratt: What we see here
has been repeated
507
00:27:34,854 --> 00:27:36,253
All across the world.
508
00:27:36,255 --> 00:27:39,123
You get a small village,
but in the right place,
509
00:27:39,125 --> 00:27:40,991
And you put a railway
through it,
510
00:27:40,993 --> 00:27:44,061
And suddenly, that village
becomes bigger and bigger
511
00:27:44,063 --> 00:27:48,632
Until you got a bustling town
supporting not only the railway
512
00:27:48,634 --> 00:27:52,536
But driving business,
driving the economy.
513
00:27:52,538 --> 00:27:55,072
Narrator: When the line
was finally completed,
514
00:27:55,074 --> 00:27:57,574
Four years after
menelik's death,
515
00:27:57,576 --> 00:28:00,344
A once treacherous journey
of many weeks
516
00:28:00,346 --> 00:28:03,814
Could now be made safely
in 36 hours.
517
00:28:03,816 --> 00:28:07,051
Barratt: Took a while,
but by 1917,
518
00:28:07,053 --> 00:28:09,386
Ethiopia had a bustling,
519
00:28:09,388 --> 00:28:13,290
Thriving railway network
ready to be exploited
520
00:28:13,292 --> 00:28:15,626
By people and goods.
521
00:28:15,628 --> 00:28:20,497
At its peak, nearly 4,000
passengers and 1,250 tons
522
00:28:20,499 --> 00:28:24,902
Of cargo would pass through
this station every single day.
523
00:28:24,904 --> 00:28:27,137
Bell: Racial segregation
that was commonplace
524
00:28:27,139 --> 00:28:31,308
In many countries at the time
wasn't tolerated in ethiopia.
525
00:28:31,310 --> 00:28:33,911
And so you had
europeans and africans
526
00:28:33,913 --> 00:28:37,247
Sharing common areas
on the passenger train.
527
00:28:37,249 --> 00:28:39,550
Hundreds of people,
black and white,
528
00:28:39,552 --> 00:28:43,353
Traveling from here
every day all together.
529
00:28:43,355 --> 00:28:47,858
♪
530
00:28:47,860 --> 00:28:51,762
Narrator: Menelik's vision for
ethiopia was ahead of its time,
531
00:28:51,764 --> 00:28:54,231
But the skeletons
in this train graveyard
532
00:28:54,233 --> 00:28:58,902
Suggest that the emperor's plan
did not turn out as he dreamed.
533
00:29:00,906 --> 00:29:07,711
♪
534
00:29:07,713 --> 00:29:09,913
Narrator: Deep in
the heart of ethiopia
535
00:29:09,915 --> 00:29:14,351
Lies the remains of
the dire dawa railroad station.
536
00:29:14,353 --> 00:29:18,021
100 years ago,
it was a thriving transport hub.
537
00:29:18,023 --> 00:29:21,992
So where did it all go wrong?
538
00:29:21,994 --> 00:29:24,161
Barratt: World war ii truly
was a global war,
539
00:29:24,163 --> 00:29:26,063
And ethiopia didn't escape.
540
00:29:26,065 --> 00:29:29,967
The railway and the country were
overtaken by italian fascists,
541
00:29:29,969 --> 00:29:33,837
And they used the railway
network to transport people,
542
00:29:33,839 --> 00:29:35,539
Goods, and weapons,
543
00:29:35,541 --> 00:29:39,042
Including tanks,
using the railway system.
544
00:29:39,044 --> 00:29:44,548
Narrator: In 1941, ethiopia was
liberated by the allied forces,
545
00:29:44,550 --> 00:29:48,118
But the railroad
still didn't revive.
546
00:29:48,120 --> 00:29:51,955
The end of world war ii
triggered a global recession.
547
00:29:51,957 --> 00:29:57,161
The railway line, in particular,
fell into disrepair,
548
00:29:57,163 --> 00:30:01,198
It limped along,
but there was no reinvestment.
549
00:30:01,200 --> 00:30:04,768
Bell: The railway suffered
another blow in 1977.
550
00:30:04,770 --> 00:30:07,504
As somali troops
invaded ethiopia,
551
00:30:07,506 --> 00:30:11,508
They took control of the railway
and dire dawa station.
552
00:30:11,510 --> 00:30:14,845
They blew up large portions
of the railway,
553
00:30:14,847 --> 00:30:19,349
Meaning operations
were again cut in half.
554
00:30:19,351 --> 00:30:22,386
Narrator: To add to this,
in 1985,
555
00:30:22,388 --> 00:30:25,122
A terrible accident
shook ethiopia.
556
00:30:25,124 --> 00:30:27,357
Barratt: A train was crossing
a river
557
00:30:27,359 --> 00:30:30,260
On a curved bridge and derailed,
558
00:30:30,262 --> 00:30:35,365
And out of the 1,000 people
on board, 400 people died.
559
00:30:35,367 --> 00:30:40,871
This is the worst rail accident
that africa has ever suffered,
560
00:30:40,873 --> 00:30:44,775
And it's had a major effect
on the network.
561
00:30:44,777 --> 00:30:47,144
Narrator: Today,
a brand-new line
562
00:30:47,146 --> 00:30:50,280
Runs alongside the old railroad
563
00:30:50,282 --> 00:30:54,518
And the station at dire dawa
is no longer needed.
564
00:30:54,520 --> 00:31:01,225
♪
565
00:31:01,227 --> 00:31:06,029
The ethio-djibouti railway
represents a national dream
566
00:31:06,031 --> 00:31:09,499
Which may yet be revived.
567
00:31:09,501 --> 00:31:10,601
Bell: Plans are now afoot
568
00:31:10,603 --> 00:31:13,637
To reinvigorate
ethiopia's rail network,
569
00:31:13,639 --> 00:31:17,407
Which the government hopes will
kick-start industrialization,
570
00:31:17,409 --> 00:31:20,878
Transforming a poor
agricultural nation
571
00:31:20,880 --> 00:31:23,680
Of nearly
a 100,000,000 people
572
00:31:23,682 --> 00:31:27,718
Into a middle-income
country by 2025.
573
00:31:27,720 --> 00:31:34,658
♪
574
00:31:34,660 --> 00:31:37,995
Narrator: In eastern europe,
in the heart of lithuania
575
00:31:37,997 --> 00:31:40,597
Lies a ring of ruins
that, at first sight,
576
00:31:40,599 --> 00:31:43,233
Seems to make little sense.
577
00:31:43,235 --> 00:31:48,171
♪
578
00:31:48,173 --> 00:31:50,207
Somara: If you were to be
dropped into the middle
579
00:31:50,209 --> 00:31:52,809
Of this space,
because of its vastness,
580
00:31:52,811 --> 00:31:57,514
It wouldn't really make sense
as to what it actually is.
581
00:31:57,516 --> 00:31:59,283
Auerbach: This is one
of those structures
582
00:31:59,285 --> 00:32:02,019
That you get a better idea
from the air.
583
00:32:02,021 --> 00:32:04,321
You can see angular shapes,
584
00:32:04,323 --> 00:32:06,523
You can see
the outlines of buildings.
585
00:32:08,360 --> 00:32:09,993
Narrator: On the ground,
586
00:32:09,995 --> 00:32:13,196
A series of mysterious
features emerge.
587
00:32:13,198 --> 00:32:16,533
Auerbach: It's overgrown,
there are plants everywhere,
588
00:32:16,535 --> 00:32:20,137
And there are these concrete
mounds with large openings,
589
00:32:20,139 --> 00:32:22,639
But it's not clear
where they lead to.
590
00:32:25,344 --> 00:32:28,412
Corum: You see long tunnels,
many of them sloping
591
00:32:28,414 --> 00:32:30,614
And going in
different directions.
592
00:32:30,616 --> 00:32:34,751
You see something
of a dark interior maze.
593
00:32:34,753 --> 00:32:36,486
Somara: It's thick, black,
594
00:32:36,488 --> 00:32:39,523
And the smell
is kind of damp and mossy,
595
00:32:39,525 --> 00:32:42,059
And it's actually
a really spooky place.
596
00:32:44,763 --> 00:32:46,997
Narrator: Signs of
violent struggle
597
00:32:46,999 --> 00:32:50,300
Linger ominously all around.
598
00:32:50,302 --> 00:32:57,140
This place clearly suffered
from a major attack.
599
00:32:57,142 --> 00:33:01,478
The sense of damage
and devastation is obvious.
600
00:33:01,480 --> 00:33:03,046
Somara: There are holes
in the ceilings,
601
00:33:03,048 --> 00:33:08,919
Holes in the walls,
and just debris everywhere.
602
00:33:08,921 --> 00:33:12,556
Auerbach: When you find out
what really happened here,
603
00:33:12,558 --> 00:33:15,192
It just sends a chill
down your spine.
604
00:33:15,194 --> 00:33:20,163
♪
605
00:33:20,165 --> 00:33:22,899
Narrator: The origins of this
vast ruin date
606
00:33:22,901 --> 00:33:27,404
To a turbulent and bloody period
of european history.
607
00:33:27,406 --> 00:33:31,475
What happened in this place
was very, very significant
608
00:33:31,477 --> 00:33:35,612
And helped push the downfall
of a great empire.
609
00:33:35,614 --> 00:33:37,347
Narrator: In the late 1800s,
610
00:33:37,349 --> 00:33:41,385
The area where this site is
located was under russian rule.
611
00:33:41,387 --> 00:33:43,420
As the end of the century
approached,
612
00:33:43,422 --> 00:33:46,356
Tensions between europe's
superpowers were mounting,
613
00:33:46,358 --> 00:33:51,161
And this borderland region
was the first to feel the heat.
614
00:33:51,163 --> 00:33:53,797
Germany, which had always
been separated
615
00:33:53,799 --> 00:33:55,766
Into smaller kingdoms
and states,
616
00:33:55,768 --> 00:34:01,938
Finally unified in 1871 and, for
the first time in its history,
617
00:34:01,940 --> 00:34:06,943
The russian empire now had
a single, powerful nation
618
00:34:06,945 --> 00:34:09,679
On its western border.
619
00:34:09,681 --> 00:34:13,550
Narrator: And when germany got
a new emperor in 1888,
620
00:34:13,552 --> 00:34:17,387
He was no longer interested
in the old alliance with russia.
621
00:34:17,389 --> 00:34:19,389
In anticipation of war,
622
00:34:19,391 --> 00:34:25,595
The russians built this --
the fortress of kaunas.
623
00:34:25,597 --> 00:34:28,965
The russian czar
likes fortifications,
624
00:34:28,967 --> 00:34:32,269
So this idea of fortress cities
comes into being and russia
625
00:34:32,271 --> 00:34:36,506
Will pour in a lot
of its military wealth.
626
00:34:36,508 --> 00:34:40,410
Narrator: In 1882,
construction began.
627
00:34:40,412 --> 00:34:43,547
Valdas rakutis is
a local historian
628
00:34:43,549 --> 00:34:47,451
Fascinated by this structure's
gory past.
629
00:34:47,453 --> 00:34:55,992
♪
630
00:34:55,994 --> 00:35:04,634
♪
631
00:35:04,636 --> 00:35:09,840
This was the golden age
of fortress building.
632
00:35:09,842 --> 00:35:13,877
This is really the last time
you see wide-scale,
633
00:35:13,879 --> 00:35:16,413
Large-scale building
of fortresses.
634
00:35:16,415 --> 00:35:21,885
♪
635
00:35:21,887 --> 00:35:27,324
♪
636
00:35:27,326 --> 00:35:30,660
Auerbach: Basically,
all roads lead to the city.
637
00:35:30,662 --> 00:35:32,596
You couldn't go around it.
638
00:35:32,598 --> 00:35:36,900
But the most important thing
was that it was a rail nexus,
639
00:35:36,902 --> 00:35:39,603
And rail
was the way to move troops
640
00:35:39,605 --> 00:35:42,873
And supplies
in this period of warfare.
641
00:35:45,711 --> 00:35:47,544
Narrator: Kaunas was so vital,
642
00:35:47,546 --> 00:35:51,715
The russians didn't stop
at one fort -- they built nine.
643
00:35:51,717 --> 00:35:53,950
Auerbach: You need to set up
your fortifications
644
00:35:53,952 --> 00:35:55,552
So there's no safe approaches,
645
00:35:55,554 --> 00:35:57,053
So that every direction
646
00:35:57,055 --> 00:35:59,756
Is covered.
647
00:35:59,758 --> 00:36:01,825
Corum: When they were built,
648
00:36:01,827 --> 00:36:04,294
They were pretty much
state of the art,
649
00:36:04,296 --> 00:36:07,664
But the state of the art
in the late 1890s
650
00:36:07,666 --> 00:36:11,268
Was changing very rapidly.
651
00:36:11,270 --> 00:36:15,772
Somara: Every couple of years,
this fortress had to be updated
652
00:36:15,774 --> 00:36:18,608
Because, within that short
space of time,
653
00:36:18,610 --> 00:36:23,513
Technology was progressing,
artillery was changing,
654
00:36:23,515 --> 00:36:27,951
And the threats were becoming
more and more dangerous.
655
00:36:27,953 --> 00:36:31,755
Auerbach: Pretty soon, new
weapons, airplanes, tanks --
656
00:36:31,757 --> 00:36:35,258
They're gonna make fixed
fortifications largely obsolete.
657
00:36:35,260 --> 00:36:40,163
♪
658
00:36:40,165 --> 00:36:42,499
Narrator: And when the first
world war broke out
659
00:36:42,501 --> 00:36:46,469
Across europe, the 20th
century's new weapons of war
660
00:36:46,471 --> 00:36:49,472
Would put the imperious fort
to the test.
661
00:36:53,378 --> 00:37:00,350
♪
662
00:37:00,352 --> 00:37:02,185
Narrator:
In the first world war,
663
00:37:02,187 --> 00:37:05,855
The bitter conflict between two
of europe's great superpowers
664
00:37:05,857 --> 00:37:10,460
Was focused on the lithuanian
fortress town of kaunas.
665
00:37:10,462 --> 00:37:13,697
The germans put all their might
behind conquering
666
00:37:13,699 --> 00:37:15,498
The coveted fortress.
667
00:37:15,500 --> 00:37:18,802
Corum: The germans poured
reinforcements into
668
00:37:18,804 --> 00:37:20,770
The northern part
of their flank,
669
00:37:20,772 --> 00:37:25,442
And they moved down,
and by August of 1915,
670
00:37:25,444 --> 00:37:29,346
They're now at the gates
of kaunas.
671
00:37:29,348 --> 00:37:31,915
Auerbach: For 10 days,
hell rained down
672
00:37:31,917 --> 00:37:33,984
On forts 1, 2, and 3.
673
00:37:36,188 --> 00:37:39,022
But fort 4 was supposed
to be the toughest,
674
00:37:39,024 --> 00:37:41,224
Really the hardest nut to crack,
675
00:37:41,226 --> 00:37:43,526
And the russians were hoping
the germans would focus
676
00:37:43,528 --> 00:37:46,329
Their efforts there,
but they didn't.
677
00:37:46,331 --> 00:37:53,470
♪
678
00:37:53,472 --> 00:38:00,610
♪
679
00:38:00,612 --> 00:38:02,946
Narrator: With
the german army bearing down
680
00:38:02,948 --> 00:38:05,448
And supported
by superior weaponry,
681
00:38:05,450 --> 00:38:09,519
The weaker sections of the
fortress didn't stand a chance.
682
00:38:09,521 --> 00:38:11,554
Auerbach: The most terrifying
of these new weapons
683
00:38:11,556 --> 00:38:14,524
Was an artillery piece
called "big bertha."
684
00:38:14,526 --> 00:38:20,297
And it fired a 17-inch artillery
shell -- 17 inches!
685
00:38:20,299 --> 00:38:23,366
It was the largest artillery
piece ever built.
686
00:38:23,368 --> 00:38:31,241
♪
687
00:38:31,243 --> 00:38:39,149
♪
688
00:38:39,151 --> 00:38:40,750
Somara: Once that breach
was made,
689
00:38:40,752 --> 00:38:45,555
The germans flooded into
the city and then took over.
690
00:38:45,557 --> 00:38:47,223
What is absolutely incredible
691
00:38:47,225 --> 00:38:51,294
Is that all those years
of planning and construction
692
00:38:51,296 --> 00:38:57,100
Was not able to withstand a few
days of concentrated attack.
693
00:38:57,102 --> 00:38:59,336
Narrator: The germans held
much of lithuania
694
00:38:59,338 --> 00:39:02,038
Until the war's bitter
conclusion.
695
00:39:02,040 --> 00:39:04,541
But even after german
withdrawal,
696
00:39:04,543 --> 00:39:07,143
The suffering didn't end.
697
00:39:07,145 --> 00:39:09,846
Auerbach: When they left,
there was a power vacuum,
698
00:39:09,848 --> 00:39:12,048
And you had to have
three civil wars
699
00:39:12,050 --> 00:39:17,053
As lithuania finally established
itself as a separate nation.
700
00:39:17,055 --> 00:39:21,758
But as much as there
was violence and horror there,
701
00:39:21,760 --> 00:39:26,963
The darkest days of the fortress
were yet to come.
702
00:39:26,965 --> 00:39:30,934
Narrator: As hitler's nazi war
machine trampled its enemies,
703
00:39:30,936 --> 00:39:35,572
This site bore witness
to unspeakable horrors.
704
00:39:35,574 --> 00:39:38,341
Auerbach: The forts are
a perfect location
705
00:39:38,343 --> 00:39:42,412
For the perpetration of the
worst of the german war crimes,
706
00:39:42,414 --> 00:39:44,781
Particularly those
against civilians.
707
00:39:44,783 --> 00:39:48,284
They're out of the way.
They're hidden.
708
00:39:48,286 --> 00:39:51,554
Somara: And that's exactly
what made it, sadly,
709
00:39:51,556 --> 00:39:54,524
An ideal place
for mass execution.
710
00:39:57,229 --> 00:39:59,796
Narrator: And lithuania's
jewish population
711
00:39:59,798 --> 00:40:02,866
Suffered the greatest cruelty.
712
00:40:02,868 --> 00:40:09,205
♪
713
00:40:09,207 --> 00:40:15,578
♪
714
00:40:15,580 --> 00:40:21,451
Narrator: In a single day,
over 1,800 jews were shot here.
715
00:40:21,453 --> 00:40:23,553
Tragically, this genocide
716
00:40:23,555 --> 00:40:28,024
Was echoed in the other
forts around kaunas.
717
00:40:28,026 --> 00:40:30,226
Auerbach: Fort number 9
saw the worst
718
00:40:30,228 --> 00:40:32,228
Of these crimes against
humanity.
719
00:40:32,230 --> 00:40:36,065
Tens of thousands were murdered
in and around the fort.
720
00:40:39,404 --> 00:40:43,573
Narrator: As the end of the war
drew closer, for one final time,
721
00:40:43,575 --> 00:40:46,843
The forts would be used
for their intended purpose.
722
00:40:46,845 --> 00:40:50,547
Here, the nazis attempted
to make a last stand
723
00:40:50,549 --> 00:40:55,285
Against the advancing forces
of stalin's russia.
724
00:40:55,287 --> 00:40:57,086
Corum: These forts were useless
725
00:40:57,088 --> 00:41:01,024
Against
a massive soviet tank force,
726
00:41:01,026 --> 00:41:05,028
And in fact, these fortresses
that held out
727
00:41:05,030 --> 00:41:10,467
For 11 days in world war I
fell in 45 minutes.
728
00:41:10,469 --> 00:41:12,902
Auerbach: And then the germans
are driven out,
729
00:41:12,904 --> 00:41:16,172
But lithuania isn't going
to find the independence
730
00:41:16,174 --> 00:41:18,741
It struggled so hard
to achieve before the war.
731
00:41:18,743 --> 00:41:22,212
Instead, they're going to be
facing a new occupation,
732
00:41:22,214 --> 00:41:23,546
That of the soviets,
733
00:41:23,548 --> 00:41:25,849
And that's gonna last
for another half century.
734
00:41:25,851 --> 00:41:33,556
♪
735
00:41:33,558 --> 00:41:37,193
Narrator: In 1990,
after the iron curtain fell,
736
00:41:37,195 --> 00:41:40,697
Lithuania finally became
an independent nation.
737
00:41:40,699 --> 00:41:44,067
Now the abandoned forts serve
as a reminder
738
00:41:44,069 --> 00:41:47,971
Of this resilient nation's
tumultuous past.
739
00:41:47,973 --> 00:41:50,607
What can we find
on this site today
740
00:41:50,609 --> 00:41:52,942
Besides the remnants
of these fortifications?
741
00:41:52,944 --> 00:41:55,245
We find a memorial
to all the lives
742
00:41:55,247 --> 00:41:57,413
That were lost there
under the german occupation.
743
00:41:57,415 --> 00:42:04,153
♪
66927
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