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In the heart of the Americas,
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where continents collide,
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there's a land full of natural
riches.
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00:00:14,500 --> 00:00:16,260
BEAR GRUNTS
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00:00:18,820 --> 00:00:21,420
BIRDS CALL
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00:00:26,140 --> 00:00:28,340
HOWLING
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00:00:33,980 --> 00:00:36,460
A land of towering giants...
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00:00:38,900 --> 00:00:41,300
..scorching sands...
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..and secret rivers...
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..where great civilisations rose...
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..and fell.
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00:00:59,900 --> 00:01:02,300
MAN WHOOPS, HORSE WHINNIES
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To succeed here takes passion and
spirit.
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00:01:12,340 --> 00:01:15,900
This is a country rich in colour and
culture.
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A festival of life.
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00:01:33,540 --> 00:01:36,780
This is Mexico.
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BIRD CALLS
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BIRD CRY ECHOES
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00:02:02,340 --> 00:02:06,860
In the far north-east of Mexico is
an ancient mountain world...
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Serranias del Burro.
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00:02:22,540 --> 00:02:25,540
It's home to an abundance of
creatures.
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00:02:36,020 --> 00:02:39,380
And its most surprising resident
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is the black bear.
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This mother has three young cubs,
just eight months old.
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BEAR GRUNTS SOFTLY
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It's autumn and the family needs to
fatten up
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before the winter hibernation.
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00:03:14,740 --> 00:03:17,540
This year, the oak trees are laden
with acorns -
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an important source of fat.
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00:03:30,300 --> 00:03:32,820
The bears have plenty to eat,
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but their challenge here is finding
enough to drink.
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CATTLE LOWING ECHOES
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The limestone mountains soak up the
rain,
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so there are no permanent streams.
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Fortunately for the bears, there is
another source of water.
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CATTLE LOW
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00:04:13,980 --> 00:04:19,060
Serranias del Burro is prime cattle
country and the ranchers provide
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00:04:19,060 --> 00:04:23,740
year-round water for their herds by
tapping into underground springs.
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The water tanks are a magnet for
all.
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Mother bear, with her young cubs,
must approach with caution.
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CATTLE LOWING ECHOES
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Bears occasionally kill cows,
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so the ranchers let their cows'
horns grow long
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as a natural bear deterrent.
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The family gets the message -
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loud and clear.
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The cattle have had their fill, now
it's the family's chance.
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00:05:59,620 --> 00:06:02,300
BIRDS CALL
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00:06:04,740 --> 00:06:07,780
But someone else has got his eye on
the tank.
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00:06:07,780 --> 00:06:10,020
BEAR GROWLS
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A big male.
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He's best avoided.
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CUBS CALL OUT
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This male wants more than a drink,
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he wants to cool off in his tub.
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At last...
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00:07:27,220 --> 00:07:31,500
Mexico's black bears were once on
the brink of extinction,
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00:07:31,500 --> 00:07:37,780
but they clung on in mountain
hideaways like Serranias del Burro.
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The ranchers here don't just
tolerate the bears,
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00:07:41,220 --> 00:07:44,860
they help them out, even providing a
leg up for the cubs.
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The population is flourishing,
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making this mountain world an
important stronghold for bears in
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North America.
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00:08:31,020 --> 00:08:35,500
Mexico is a vast country, around
2,000 miles long...
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..dominated by a great range of
mountains, the Sierra Madre...
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..stretching all the way from the
country's northern border
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with the United States, down to its
southern border with Guatemala.
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00:08:54,500 --> 00:08:57,540
Travel down Mexico's rocky spine -
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and there are many more diverse
mountain worlds.
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00:09:30,900 --> 00:09:36,380
The grandest of them all is found in
the north-west of the country,
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in a region known as Copper Canyon,
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covering 25,000 square miles.
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A maze of gorges,
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some even deeper than the
Grand Canyon.
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00:10:12,980 --> 00:10:16,820
In the 16th century, Spanish
conquistadors came here,
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hunting for gold and silver.
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But they weren't the first to
arrive.
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00:10:29,940 --> 00:10:35,340
The Raramuri have lived in these
mountains for over 2,000 years.
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To escape slavery in Spanish mines,
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many sought refuge in the most
inaccessible places.
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To navigate the canyon's vast
terrain quickly,
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the Raramuri became skilled
long-distance runners...
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..able to cover 200 miles without
stopping.
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Centuries of running at high
altitude has made them
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unrivalled endurance athletes.
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THEY SPEAK IN SPANISH
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Today, the Raramuri still live in
remote regions of the Copper Canyon
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and running remains an important
part of their culture.
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Sisters Carmen, Mequejilda and
Elida
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are from a proud family of runners.
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00:11:58,780 --> 00:12:03,860
Their brother, Santos, is already a
champion, winning several marathons.
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00:12:06,460 --> 00:12:09,460
But today, it's his sisters' turn.
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00:12:16,860 --> 00:12:20,820
Their traditional running sandals
called huaraches,
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once fashioned from animal hide, are
now made from old car tyres.
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Wearing them from childhood
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strengthens the foot muscles
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and stiffens the arches of the feet.
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Preparing this new generation of
Raramuri for a life on the move.
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They are heading to the nearest town
for a race.
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Here in the town of Porochi,
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a race day is a chance for distant
neighbours to catch up.
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BUZZ OF CHATTER
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The girls' race is the first of the
day.
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HE SPEAKS IN SPANISH
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They will be competing over three
miles.
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Uno, dos, tres...
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fuera!
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In this traditional team event,
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the girls toss a hoop, called an
arihueta, for the first lap.
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One lap down, one to go.
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Sister Elida now takes the arihueta.
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THEY SHOUT ENCOURAGEMENT
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The first hoop to cross the
finishing line wins.
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At last, the home straight.
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MEN SHOUT
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Elida is first to cross the finish
line...
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CROWD APPLAUDS
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..upholding her family's winning
record.
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THEY SPEAK IN SPANISH
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The races continue long into the
night.
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Mexico has one of the largest
indigenous populations in
Latin America.
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More than 25 million people and
68 different languages.
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Living in the Copper Canyon has
moulded the Raramuri's whole way of
life.
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All of Mexico's mountain worlds
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shape life in profoundly different
ways.
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00:16:39,100 --> 00:16:44,780
Nowhere is this more apparent than
among a very unusual group of
mountains...
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1,000 miles to the south,
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where ancient tectonic events have
crumpled the land...
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The Sierra Gorda, or
opulent mountains.
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Here, the temperate and tropical
collide,
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creating a mosaic of different
habitats.
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00:17:15,980 --> 00:17:18,500
BIRDS CALL
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00:17:32,340 --> 00:17:36,940
In this one region, there are more
than 2,000 different types of
plant...
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00:17:40,020 --> 00:17:43,100
..over 340 bird species...
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BIRDS CALL
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..and 800 kinds of butterfly.
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00:18:01,180 --> 00:18:04,420
Fairy tale oak forests are a secret
garden
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for more colourful tropical
species.
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00:18:19,860 --> 00:18:23,100
The most bewitching of all,
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orchids.
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00:18:28,900 --> 00:18:30,900
Over millions of years,
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these flowers have developed an
unusual relationship
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with a very colourful
character...
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..the orchid bee.
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00:18:42,220 --> 00:18:46,380
For just a few months each year,
when the orchids are in bloom,
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the orchid bees visit them in
droves.
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Not to sip their nectar -
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but to sweep up fragrant oils using
brushes on their front feet.
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00:19:00,300 --> 00:19:05,100
They scrape the oils into a special
pouch on their hind legs.
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00:19:05,100 --> 00:19:07,140
BEE BUZZES
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00:19:08,460 --> 00:19:11,140
These orchid bees are mixing
their own cologne...
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00:19:12,460 --> 00:19:16,500
..made from up to 80 different
scents collected from the forest.
153
00:19:17,980 --> 00:19:22,020
This complex fragrance helps the
males attract the females.
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00:19:22,020 --> 00:19:25,060
BEES BUZZ
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00:19:27,100 --> 00:19:31,340
The most fragrant oils are produced
by one very special kind of
orchid...
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..Stanhopea.
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This orchid blooms for
just one day each year.
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In this crucial 24 hours, it must
spread its pollen far and wide.
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As soon as it opens,
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00:19:56,580 --> 00:19:58,860
the flower emits a hypnotic
perfume...
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..that smells like freshly ground
cinnamon...
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..sending the orchid bees into
delirium.
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BEES BUZZ INTENSELY
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But Stanhopea's sweet smell belies a
cunning purpose.
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Its petals are covered in slippery
oil droplets.
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And their intricate shape forces the
bee to walk backwards.
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The bee slips
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and the orchid sticks a packet of
pollen onto its back...
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..which it will unwittingly carry to
other Stanhopea flowers.
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With its pollen distributed in just
a single day,
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the flowers' job is done.
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00:21:17,780 --> 00:21:20,100
As the sun sets,
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the petals wilt and die.
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BIRD CALL ECHOES
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Travel further south down Mexico's
spine and ancient peaks give way to
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00:21:48,260 --> 00:21:52,100
younger mountains
in the fertile heart of the country.
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Much of this land is over 6,000ft
above sea-level.
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A landscape of extensive farmland
and pine oak forest.
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The soils here are especially rich
because this is the home
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of restless giants.
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00:22:44,860 --> 00:22:48,580
Popocatepetl is Mexico's
second-highest peak...
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..over three miles above sea-level -
and still growing.
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It's the country's most active
volcano.
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LOW RUMBLING
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Mexico is one of the most
volcanically active places on earth
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because it lies at the collision
point of three tectonic plates,
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producing a great chain of mountains
that stretch right across central
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00:23:50,180 --> 00:23:55,100
Mexico, known as the
Transvolcanic Belt,
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with more than 20 active volcanoes.
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00:24:10,220 --> 00:24:13,780
They can cause death and destruction
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00:24:13,780 --> 00:24:16,820
but they're also givers of life.
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Their volcanic ash enriches the
soil,
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00:24:28,740 --> 00:24:31,740
making this a highly productive
region of Mexico...
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..and the most inhabited.
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The country's capital, Mexico City,
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lies on a high plateau in the shadow
of volcanoes.
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00:24:55,340 --> 00:24:59,180
People first settled here almost
10,000 years ago.
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00:24:59,180 --> 00:25:01,820
DISTANT DOGS BARK
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00:25:05,700 --> 00:25:08,140
It's a riot of colour...
200
00:25:08,140 --> 00:25:09,940
CAR HORNS BEEP
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00:25:09,940 --> 00:25:12,140
..noise...
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00:25:12,140 --> 00:25:14,740
and culture.
203
00:25:14,740 --> 00:25:17,300
CROWD CHEERS
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00:25:19,940 --> 00:25:26,220
This sprawling mega-city is home to
over 20 million people
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00:25:26,220 --> 00:25:31,500
and 80% of all the food consumed
here comes from a single place...
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00:25:34,740 --> 00:25:37,180
..the largest wholesale food market
in the world...
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00:25:38,380 --> 00:25:41,340
..La Central de Abasto.
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00:25:50,060 --> 00:25:54,060
30,000 tonnes of produce changes
hands every day...
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00:25:59,780 --> 00:26:03,140
..much of it grown on Mexico's
volcanic belt.
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00:26:08,860 --> 00:26:12,100
NOISY CHATTER
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00:26:30,980 --> 00:26:36,660
The country's most iconic foods,
chillies, maize and avocados,
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00:26:36,660 --> 00:26:39,740
all originate in Mexico's Highlands.
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00:26:41,940 --> 00:26:45,460
Many are exported worldwide
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00:26:45,460 --> 00:26:50,700
and there's one product that's
earned a formidable reputation.
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00:26:50,700 --> 00:26:54,140
BELL TOLLS
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TRANSLATED FROM SPANISH:
217
00:27:25,740 --> 00:27:31,740
16-year-old Martin is a sometime
bull rider but a full-time jimador,
218
00:27:31,740 --> 00:27:35,260
a farmer who harvests the blue agave
plant...
219
00:27:38,460 --> 00:27:41,980
..the essential ingredient of
tequila.
220
00:28:11,980 --> 00:28:17,020
Agave plants can take a decade to
mature before the plant is cut down.
221
00:28:17,020 --> 00:28:19,180
DOGS BARK
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00:28:22,380 --> 00:28:28,220
By slicing away the spiky leaves,
the jimadores expose what they're
after,
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00:28:28,220 --> 00:28:32,660
the sugar rich heart, the pina.
224
00:28:34,180 --> 00:28:38,580
Martin toils in the shadow of
Volcan de Tequila,
225
00:28:38,580 --> 00:28:42,220
which last erupted 220,000 years
ago...
226
00:28:44,100 --> 00:28:48,420
..its ancient ash fertilising the
rich red soils.
227
00:28:54,740 --> 00:29:01,020
This one region of Mexico, Jalisco,
produces 80% of the country's
tequila,
228
00:29:01,020 --> 00:29:03,540
crafted in special distilleries.
229
00:29:13,980 --> 00:29:18,740
The pinas are first roasted and then
crushed, squeezing out the
sugar-rich juices.
230
00:29:22,540 --> 00:29:24,260
These are then fermented.
231
00:29:25,500 --> 00:29:27,900
Yeast turns the sugar into alcohol.
232
00:29:30,980 --> 00:29:34,060
Finally, it's distilled...
233
00:29:34,060 --> 00:29:36,380
producing the highest grade
tequila.
234
00:29:38,780 --> 00:29:41,140
MEN SPEAK IN SPANISH
235
00:29:43,140 --> 00:29:45,660
To improve the quality of their
crops,
236
00:29:45,660 --> 00:29:48,340
some farmers are trying something
new.
237
00:29:50,060 --> 00:29:52,980
For the first time in 200 years,
238
00:29:52,980 --> 00:29:57,380
they are letting a proportion of
their agave go into flower.
239
00:30:02,140 --> 00:30:06,300
The plants funnel all their sugars
into towering blooms...
240
00:30:08,780 --> 00:30:12,060
..rendering them useless for
tequila
241
00:30:12,060 --> 00:30:15,460
but offering a lifeline for a
threatened species.
242
00:30:21,100 --> 00:30:25,860
Thousands of female lesser
long-nosed bats migrate along
243
00:30:25,860 --> 00:30:29,260
Mexico's mountains to reach their
breeding caves in the north.
244
00:30:32,740 --> 00:30:38,900
They can fly over 60 miles a night
and need frequent sips of sugar-rich
nectar.
245
00:30:45,740 --> 00:30:49,180
The agave provides them with a
critical source of food.
246
00:31:02,820 --> 00:31:06,780
The bats also benefit the farmers by
pollinating their crop.
247
00:31:06,780 --> 00:31:08,860
MEN CHAT IN SPANISH
248
00:31:10,140 --> 00:31:13,860
If their agave is exposed to a
greater mix of pollens,
249
00:31:13,860 --> 00:31:19,780
the plants will be stronger and more
resilient to disease.
250
00:31:19,780 --> 00:31:22,900
THEY SPEAK IN SPANISH
251
00:31:22,900 --> 00:31:26,140
THEY LAUGH
252
00:31:26,140 --> 00:31:30,180
By helping the bats, the agave
farmers are safeguarding their own
future...
253
00:31:31,500 --> 00:31:36,500
..and ensuring the continued legacy
of Mexico's most iconic drink.
254
00:31:49,540 --> 00:31:53,620
Central Mexico's mountains have
attracted people for millennia.
255
00:32:05,580 --> 00:32:09,180
Immense empires grew in this
volcanic heartland...
256
00:32:10,660 --> 00:32:14,540
..and the remnants of some of their
cities still stand.
257
00:32:18,380 --> 00:32:25,060
1,500 years ago, Teotihuacan was a
thriving metropolis,
258
00:32:25,060 --> 00:32:28,540
home to over 100,000 people.
259
00:32:32,180 --> 00:32:36,660
But perhaps the most famous ancient
empire here
260
00:32:36,660 --> 00:32:38,860
was the Aztecs.
261
00:32:44,580 --> 00:32:49,020
They dominated central Mexico in the
15th and 16th centuries.
262
00:32:50,700 --> 00:32:54,540
Aztecs believed mountains connected
Earth to the heavens
263
00:32:54,540 --> 00:32:56,620
and the underworld.
264
00:32:59,660 --> 00:33:06,380
50 miles south of Mexico City is the
Temple of Tepozteco.
265
00:33:06,380 --> 00:33:09,500
This shrine was abandoned long ago
266
00:33:09,500 --> 00:33:13,620
but a very resourceful animal has
since made it home...
267
00:33:13,620 --> 00:33:16,220
SOFT GRUNTING
268
00:33:17,620 --> 00:33:20,900
..coatis.
269
00:33:25,540 --> 00:33:28,660
They are the most social of the
raccoon family...
270
00:33:30,460 --> 00:33:32,660
..forming bands up to 30 strong.
271
00:33:34,900 --> 00:33:40,180
They normally live in tropical
woodlands and open forest.
272
00:33:40,180 --> 00:33:42,820
COATIS SNUFFLE AND SQUEAL
273
00:33:46,420 --> 00:33:48,820
Coatis are omnivores.
274
00:33:50,180 --> 00:33:53,220
They can eat pretty much anything.
275
00:33:58,300 --> 00:34:01,220
Here at Tepozteco, there are plenty
of options.
276
00:34:21,900 --> 00:34:26,500
This important archaeological site
attracts many visitors,
277
00:34:26,500 --> 00:34:29,180
and tourists bring opportunities.
278
00:34:38,740 --> 00:34:41,740
This is no ordinary coati clan.
279
00:35:04,940 --> 00:35:08,580
These adaptable animals have become
artful thieves.
280
00:35:18,860 --> 00:35:22,380
The coatis are thriving thanks to
teamwork
281
00:35:22,380 --> 00:35:24,620
and a shameless streak.
282
00:35:24,620 --> 00:35:27,060
COATIS SQUEAK
283
00:35:45,420 --> 00:35:47,820
Below the volcanic heartland,
284
00:35:47,820 --> 00:35:52,460
Mexico's Sierra Madre stretches on
south towards the tropics.
285
00:35:58,740 --> 00:36:01,180
At its southernmost tip,
286
00:36:01,180 --> 00:36:03,860
where it meets the Pacific Ocean,
287
00:36:03,860 --> 00:36:07,700
the mountains catch the moisture
from clouds rolling in off the sea.
288
00:36:22,340 --> 00:36:26,780
10% of all of Mexico's rain is
captured here,
289
00:36:26,780 --> 00:36:32,660
helping to create a lush cloud
forest known as El Triunfo.
290
00:36:44,620 --> 00:36:46,860
The combination of humidity,
291
00:36:46,860 --> 00:36:52,380
altitude and warmth makes the
perfect conditions for life to
flourish.
292
00:36:52,380 --> 00:36:55,740
BIRDS CALL, INSECTS BUZZ
293
00:36:57,540 --> 00:37:03,020
This secret mountain world is home
to an abundance of rare creatures,
294
00:37:03,020 --> 00:37:05,700
many found nowhere else on earth.
295
00:37:10,020 --> 00:37:12,740
High in the canopy,
296
00:37:12,740 --> 00:37:16,940
100ft off the ground, lives the
alligator tree lizard...
297
00:37:23,460 --> 00:37:26,340
GUAN MAKES DEEP-THROATED CALL
298
00:37:26,340 --> 00:37:28,980
The last survivor of an ancient bird
family,
299
00:37:28,980 --> 00:37:33,860
it's been evolving independently for
more than 30 million years.
300
00:37:33,860 --> 00:37:37,380
BIRDS CALL VOCALLY
301
00:37:42,580 --> 00:37:47,500
In forest clearings, male
long-tailed manakins dance to entice
females,
302
00:37:47,500 --> 00:37:50,780
a ritual that may take a decade to
perfect.
303
00:38:01,660 --> 00:38:06,340
Travel deeper into the heart of this
cloud forest,
304
00:38:06,340 --> 00:38:10,220
and you might discover the true
spirit of El Triunfo...
305
00:38:12,820 --> 00:38:15,420
..a mythical creature rarely seen.
306
00:38:20,860 --> 00:38:23,380
Sacred to the ancient Aztecs,
307
00:38:23,380 --> 00:38:26,300
who treasured its feathers more than
gold.
308
00:38:30,500 --> 00:38:36,220
It's considered the most beautiful
bird in the Americas...
309
00:38:36,220 --> 00:38:39,180
BIRDS CALL
310
00:38:42,620 --> 00:38:48,340
..the aptly named
resplendent quetzal.
311
00:39:03,620 --> 00:39:08,700
It's the mating season and these
males' three-foot-long tail feathers
312
00:39:08,700 --> 00:39:11,620
have helped him successfully attract
a mate.
313
00:39:18,220 --> 00:39:21,180
Now he has a young family to feed.
314
00:39:26,380 --> 00:39:31,820
He works tirelessly for a month to
satisfy his brood's voracious
appetite.
315
00:39:38,020 --> 00:39:43,820
His lush Mexican home is brimming
with fruit and insects.
316
00:39:52,740 --> 00:39:54,860
At the end of the mating season,
317
00:39:54,860 --> 00:39:58,420
he will drop his spectacular tail
feathers,
318
00:39:58,420 --> 00:40:01,620
but the quetzal grows a new train
every year.
319
00:40:07,020 --> 00:40:12,860
Only in such a rich mountain habitat
can animals afford to devote so much
320
00:40:12,860 --> 00:40:15,300
energy to looking this good.
321
00:40:28,540 --> 00:40:33,820
From north to south, all of Mexico's
mountain worlds are unique.
322
00:40:35,980 --> 00:40:37,860
And some are so inviting,
323
00:40:37,860 --> 00:40:41,700
they compel creatures to journey
vast distances to reach them.
324
00:40:48,620 --> 00:40:53,300
Every winter, one creature travels
nearly 3,000 miles
325
00:40:53,300 --> 00:40:55,140
from as far as Canada,
326
00:40:55,140 --> 00:40:58,980
to this special place, high in the
mountains of central Mexico.
327
00:41:06,940 --> 00:41:11,180
The trees seem to be draped in
leaves, but in fact,
328
00:41:11,180 --> 00:41:14,180
they are coated in millions of
delicate creatures.
329
00:41:17,180 --> 00:41:21,460
Silent, unmoving...
330
00:41:23,900 --> 00:41:25,980
..monarch butterflies.
331
00:41:31,980 --> 00:41:34,460
In their hundreds of millions.
332
00:41:38,660 --> 00:41:42,820
These oyamel fir forests are their
perfect winter sanctuary.
333
00:41:45,300 --> 00:41:48,340
The low temperatures slow their
metabolism,
334
00:41:48,340 --> 00:41:51,780
putting the butterflies in a trance
for five long months.
335
00:42:03,580 --> 00:42:07,020
Mountain mists prevent them from
drying out.
336
00:42:08,660 --> 00:42:12,700
And the towering firs help protect
them from winter storms...
337
00:42:14,340 --> 00:42:16,580
..ensuring they don't freeze.
338
00:42:20,700 --> 00:42:22,300
For thousands of years,
339
00:42:22,300 --> 00:42:28,940
these monarchs have had a special
significance for the people of
Mexico's mountains,
340
00:42:28,940 --> 00:42:33,220
who believe the butterflies to be
the spirits of the dead,
341
00:42:33,220 --> 00:42:35,620
returning to Earth from the heavens.
342
00:42:37,180 --> 00:42:41,420
And their arrival in winter
coincides with one of the most
343
00:42:41,420 --> 00:42:43,980
important events in the Mexican
calendar.
344
00:42:52,540 --> 00:42:56,140
MAN SINGS IN SPANISH
345
00:43:06,380 --> 00:43:10,820
Dia de Los Muertos -
The Day of the Dead.
346
00:43:14,060 --> 00:43:16,700
CHIMES TINKLE
347
00:43:19,140 --> 00:43:21,780
SHE SPEAKS IN SPANISH
348
00:43:21,780 --> 00:43:25,140
In villages across the Sierra Madre,
349
00:43:25,140 --> 00:43:29,500
families like Catalina's
are remembering those who have
passed on.
350
00:43:30,940 --> 00:43:33,340
TRANSLATED FROM
SPANISH:
351
00:43:39,620 --> 00:43:42,380
THEY SPEAK IN SPANISH
352
00:43:56,580 --> 00:44:00,380
Catalina and her family gather
around her husband's grave.
353
00:44:36,020 --> 00:44:38,860
THEY CHAT AND LAUGH
354
00:44:49,540 --> 00:44:53,180
The family keep their candles
burning until first light.
355
00:44:54,420 --> 00:44:56,980
But they are not alone.
356
00:44:59,620 --> 00:45:03,220
Tonight, millions of candles are lit
throughout Mexico...
357
00:45:08,220 --> 00:45:11,860
..helping to guide the spirits of
loved ones back home.
358
00:45:21,140 --> 00:45:24,420
The party for the dead has only just
begun.
359
00:45:24,420 --> 00:45:27,180
FIREWORKS WHISTLE
360
00:45:29,540 --> 00:45:32,180
WHOOPING AND CHEERING
361
00:45:33,340 --> 00:45:36,260
Many Mexicans do not believe death
is an ending.
362
00:45:39,660 --> 00:45:43,740
They embrace it as an essential part
of a natural cycle.
363
00:45:53,540 --> 00:45:57,380
The people here have been
celebrating the Day of the Dead
364
00:45:57,380 --> 00:45:59,340
for more than 3,000 years.
365
00:46:07,100 --> 00:46:09,980
Generation after generation.
366
00:46:17,900 --> 00:46:20,540
But the spirits of the dead cannot
stay for long.
367
00:46:23,980 --> 00:46:26,780
Just as the spirits must return to
the heavens...
368
00:46:29,980 --> 00:46:32,740
..the butterflies will also leave.
369
00:46:56,700 --> 00:47:01,380
This is Mexico's greatest natural
spectacle,
370
00:47:01,380 --> 00:47:04,780
up to a billion butterflies take to
the wind.
371
00:47:12,220 --> 00:47:15,580
These monarchs will never return to
Mexico.
372
00:47:15,580 --> 00:47:18,620
Their short time on this earth is
almost over.
373
00:47:21,860 --> 00:47:24,100
But they will lay their eggs on the
journey north.
374
00:47:32,260 --> 00:47:35,780
And next year their descendants
will continue this ancient ritual...
375
00:47:39,180 --> 00:47:43,660
..by making the same epic pilgrimage
along Mexico's rocky spine,
376
00:47:43,660 --> 00:47:46,420
back to this unique mountain world.
377
00:47:56,020 --> 00:48:00,060
It's no coincidence that Sierra
Madre means Mother Mountains.
378
00:48:03,740 --> 00:48:07,740
Her great ranges nurture an
incredible diversity of life...
379
00:48:11,060 --> 00:48:15,100
..and helped give birth to some of
the greatest civilisations on earth.
380
00:48:21,340 --> 00:48:25,020
The Aztecs believed mountains
brought you closer to the heavens.
381
00:48:27,380 --> 00:48:30,220
In Mexico's Mother Mountains,
382
00:48:30,220 --> 00:48:32,940
you can see why.
383
00:48:46,180 --> 00:48:50,220
Of all the animals the mountains
team wanted to feature,
384
00:48:50,220 --> 00:48:53,500
one creature was top of the list.
385
00:48:53,500 --> 00:48:58,100
Rarely seen, little-known,
hardly ever filmed.
386
00:49:00,380 --> 00:49:01,780
Mexico's black bear.
387
00:49:04,860 --> 00:49:07,060
Filming them would be
a great achievement.
388
00:49:10,060 --> 00:49:12,820
To stand any chance
of even finding them,
389
00:49:12,820 --> 00:49:17,940
the team relied on Mexico's
foremost bear scientist,
390
00:49:17,940 --> 00:49:19,300
Diana Doan-Crider,
391
00:49:19,300 --> 00:49:23,540
a Mexican American who has been
studying and protecting these bears
392
00:49:23,540 --> 00:49:25,140
for 25 years.
393
00:49:28,780 --> 00:49:31,580
My mother's Mexican
and my father's American.
394
00:49:31,580 --> 00:49:35,700
When I was a kid, my grandfather,
he would tell me stories of seeing
bears.
395
00:49:38,020 --> 00:49:41,380
As I grew up, I knew I wanted
to study wildlife in Mexico.
396
00:49:56,860 --> 00:49:58,580
Since the 1980s,
397
00:49:58,580 --> 00:50:02,700
Diana's extensive research
in the Serranias del Burro
398
00:50:02,700 --> 00:50:06,380
has shown that these mountains
are an essential stronghold
399
00:50:06,380 --> 00:50:07,420
for black bears.
400
00:50:13,740 --> 00:50:17,980
She has worked closely with ranchers
and landowners to help protect
401
00:50:17,980 --> 00:50:19,300
this important habitat.
402
00:50:24,900 --> 00:50:27,300
But five years ago, disaster struck.
403
00:50:30,620 --> 00:50:33,420
Five years ago, it quit
raining for eight months.
404
00:50:33,420 --> 00:50:35,900
So it dried up all of that fuel.
405
00:50:35,900 --> 00:50:39,100
And then, in March, while I was
here, a fire started.
406
00:50:41,460 --> 00:50:43,060
That fire didn't stop until May.
407
00:50:44,780 --> 00:50:46,580
And it burned 350,000 acres.
408
00:50:49,420 --> 00:50:53,340
I will be honest, I was traumatised
by what I saw because...
409
00:50:53,340 --> 00:50:54,500
I'm sorry.
410
00:50:56,380 --> 00:50:57,700
We saw a lot of dead bears.
411
00:51:06,500 --> 00:51:09,580
I think a lot of us were, like,
"Man, this is it. It's over."
412
00:51:12,620 --> 00:51:15,740
The fires also ravaged
the oak forests,
413
00:51:15,740 --> 00:51:19,140
whose acorns are a critical source
of food for the bears.
414
00:51:25,180 --> 00:51:29,900
This is Diana's first time back
to find the bears since the fire,
415
00:51:29,900 --> 00:51:32,900
so the shoot takes on
extra significance.
416
00:51:36,140 --> 00:51:38,660
After decades of
conservation effort,
417
00:51:38,660 --> 00:51:42,700
she is desperate to see if
they have managed to survive,
418
00:51:42,700 --> 00:51:46,340
and whether this fragile
ecosystem has fully recovered.
419
00:51:48,020 --> 00:51:53,860
This is my first time back, and this
place here was completely devoid
420
00:51:53,860 --> 00:51:56,100
of vegetation.
421
00:51:56,100 --> 00:51:58,540
So this was a dead tree.
422
00:51:58,540 --> 00:52:01,660
And what's really great is that
we have acorn production now.
423
00:52:01,660 --> 00:52:03,860
And that's what we were most
concerned with,
424
00:52:03,860 --> 00:52:06,540
was how long was it going to
take for these patches,
425
00:52:06,540 --> 00:52:09,700
especially severely burnt patches,
to start producing acorns.
426
00:52:12,140 --> 00:52:14,980
The mountains team have
timed their visit carefully.
427
00:52:16,740 --> 00:52:20,260
It's autumn, and the bears
should be around,
428
00:52:20,260 --> 00:52:22,260
fattening up on the flush of food.
429
00:52:25,380 --> 00:52:30,180
Diana takes the team,
along with landowner David,
430
00:52:30,180 --> 00:52:32,460
to look for signs
of bear activity.
431
00:52:32,460 --> 00:52:35,380
What we have is branch
breakage by the bears.
432
00:52:35,380 --> 00:52:38,180
They climb up in here and they pack
it down and then they sit up there
433
00:52:38,180 --> 00:52:40,580
and feed. And this is
a really good example.
434
00:52:42,140 --> 00:52:44,820
There is further evidence,
if a bit unsavoury.
435
00:52:46,140 --> 00:52:47,500
How old would that be?
436
00:52:47,500 --> 00:52:50,580
This is probably just a couple
of days old because it has been
437
00:52:50,580 --> 00:52:52,860
very hot and it is still
moist on the inside.
438
00:52:54,860 --> 00:52:56,780
I'd have to taste it to be sure.
439
00:52:56,780 --> 00:52:58,020
LAUGHTER
440
00:52:59,900 --> 00:53:03,140
Great news - proof that
the bears are around.
441
00:53:04,540 --> 00:53:06,980
But this is a vast landscape,
442
00:53:06,980 --> 00:53:10,180
more than 1,000 square miles
of wilderness.
443
00:53:12,740 --> 00:53:15,500
The team need to know where
they should focus their effort.
444
00:53:16,740 --> 00:53:18,940
And Diana knows
the right people to ask.
445
00:53:22,260 --> 00:53:26,060
Ranchers. They know this land
like the back of their hands...
446
00:53:27,700 --> 00:53:29,500
..and the bears better than anyone.
447
00:53:32,580 --> 00:53:35,980
I came in kind of with an attitude
of telling them what I was going to
do,
448
00:53:35,980 --> 00:53:38,300
what I was going to learn about
bears and, you know,
449
00:53:38,300 --> 00:53:40,420
give them all the answers
that they needed.
450
00:53:40,420 --> 00:53:43,380
I remember the first meeting I had
with them, and it was a group
451
00:53:43,380 --> 00:53:45,860
of ranchers, and they sat down
and they gave me a list.
452
00:53:45,860 --> 00:53:48,900
And they told me, "This is what
the bears do in the spring,
453
00:53:48,900 --> 00:53:52,260
"this is what the bears do in the
fall, this is how many cubs they
have.
454
00:53:52,260 --> 00:53:53,500
"This is what they eat."
455
00:53:54,740 --> 00:53:58,180
And I can tell you this, every one
of those things on that list were
true.
456
00:54:01,060 --> 00:54:03,260
There have been
recent bear sightings.
457
00:54:05,260 --> 00:54:09,380
And ahead of the shoot the ranchers
set up some camera traps for
458
00:54:09,380 --> 00:54:13,620
the team, hoping to find out
where the bears are most active.
459
00:54:14,620 --> 00:54:16,740
Oh, man. I can't believe it.
460
00:54:17,860 --> 00:54:19,060
Look what he did.
461
00:54:20,940 --> 00:54:23,260
A bear just came and
knocked over the whole rock.
462
00:54:25,300 --> 00:54:27,020
There's two down.
463
00:54:32,260 --> 00:54:34,340
LAUGHTER
464
00:54:34,340 --> 00:54:37,340
Look here. He made a hole.
465
00:54:37,340 --> 00:54:39,740
This isn't exactly
what they were hoping for.
466
00:54:41,660 --> 00:54:46,100
These animals, they can't,
like, not totally trash it.
467
00:54:46,100 --> 00:54:48,780
Bears four, me zero.
468
00:54:48,780 --> 00:54:51,700
We'll see if we have anything
that's useful on these cameras.
469
00:54:54,660 --> 00:54:57,420
I guess it's the best way we can
work out where to concentrate our
470
00:54:57,420 --> 00:54:59,740
efforts, as long as it
hasn't been eaten up.
471
00:55:01,540 --> 00:55:02,980
Can you see anything?
472
00:55:02,980 --> 00:55:08,740
For the first time in five years,
Diana sees her bears again.
473
00:55:08,740 --> 00:55:11,300
What are they doing?
They are just goofing around.
474
00:55:12,740 --> 00:55:15,740
And they both have chest blazes
which makes me think that they
475
00:55:15,740 --> 00:55:17,340
are siblings. Siblings.
476
00:55:17,340 --> 00:55:20,660
These two show up and
they start romping around,
477
00:55:20,660 --> 00:55:23,460
playing with each other. It would be
great if we could film them because
478
00:55:23,460 --> 00:55:26,140
they are very playful.
479
00:55:26,140 --> 00:55:29,700
What's interesting about this
is you see the truck go by.
480
00:55:29,700 --> 00:55:32,500
And not even four minutes
later the bear comes back.
481
00:55:32,500 --> 00:55:37,540
At least now we know which are the
most active pools to concentrate on.
482
00:55:37,540 --> 00:55:41,140
I'll be honest with you, I never
knew this number of animals were
483
00:55:41,140 --> 00:55:42,940
visiting these water sources.
484
00:55:47,060 --> 00:55:49,740
With this information
from the camera traps,
485
00:55:49,740 --> 00:55:53,140
the team now concentrate
on a few key water tanks.
486
00:55:54,860 --> 00:55:57,580
It's really good cos we've
just seen our first bear.
487
00:56:01,900 --> 00:56:05,140
There is a mother bear and a baby
there just feeding on some acorns.
488
00:56:18,260 --> 00:56:22,900
For the first time since the fire,
this is a bumper year for cubs.
489
00:56:38,860 --> 00:56:40,580
That's a wonderful jump.
Oh, my gosh.
490
00:56:40,580 --> 00:56:42,460
This is so amazing.
491
00:56:42,460 --> 00:56:43,700
That's great stuff.
492
00:56:45,580 --> 00:56:48,860
Today has been great. The dam broke,
we've got some great play behaviour.
493
00:56:48,860 --> 00:56:50,820
I mean, as good as
I've filmed anywhere,
494
00:56:50,820 --> 00:56:52,860
Canada or North America.
495
00:56:52,860 --> 00:56:54,140
So it has been great.
496
00:56:58,780 --> 00:57:02,060
Diana has been an absolute
godsend to the shoot.
497
00:57:02,060 --> 00:57:07,260
Having her wisdom and her 25 years'
experience and her relationship
498
00:57:07,260 --> 00:57:13,660
with the ranchers, she has opened
the door to us, to tell, I think,
499
00:57:13,660 --> 00:57:16,260
the most magical black bear story.
500
00:57:16,260 --> 00:57:21,060
I quit coming for a long time and
now I've come back, five years
later,
501
00:57:21,060 --> 00:57:25,500
and I'm actually floored
over the recovery of the ecosystem.
502
00:57:28,020 --> 00:57:31,060
And not just that, but the
recovery of this bear population.
503
00:57:36,340 --> 00:57:41,180
This place demonstrates how
people can coexist with wildlife.
504
00:57:41,180 --> 00:57:42,900
It's a really unique relationship.
505
00:57:45,300 --> 00:57:47,540
The ranchers have learned
to coexist with the bears.
506
00:57:47,540 --> 00:57:49,780
The bears have learned
to coexist with the cattle.
507
00:57:49,780 --> 00:57:52,500
I love that.
That's Mexico's heritage -
508
00:57:52,500 --> 00:57:54,180
us living on the land.
509
00:58:01,140 --> 00:58:04,940
Next time, we travel
to Mexico's southeast,
510
00:58:04,940 --> 00:58:06,820
and a unique peninsula.
511
00:58:07,900 --> 00:58:10,180
The Yucatan,
512
00:58:10,180 --> 00:58:13,620
the birthplace of the
once-mighty Maya civilisation...
513
00:58:19,460 --> 00:58:23,460
..where mysterious forests
hide a secret underworld.
41984
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