Original subtitles

>> I ALWAYS FEEL SLIGHTLY

DEPRESSED BY BEAUTIFUL VISTAS,

YOU KNOW I MEAN?

*

>>> AH, THE STORYBOOK KINGDOM OF

GRENADA.

ONE OF THE OLDEST, MOST COMPLEX,

MAGICALLY SURREAL PLACES IN

SPAIN.

AND ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL.

GRENADA IS TUCKED AGAINST THE

SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS OF

ANDALUCIA IN SOUTHERN SPAIN.

IT'S NOT LIKE BARCELONA.

IT AIN'T MADRID.

ANY REASONABLE PERSON WHO LOOKS

AT SPAIN, COMES TO SPAIN, EATS

IN SPAIN, DRINKS IN SPAIN,

THEY'RE GOING TO FALL IN LOVE.

OTHERWISE, THERE'S SOMETHING

DEEPLY WRONG WITH YOU.

SPAIN IS THE SORT OF PLACE THAT

NEVER REALLY MADE ANY SENSE

ANYWAY.

BUT IN THE VERY BEST POSSIBLE

WAY.

THIS IS THE COUNTRY THAT GAVE US

THE SPANISH INQUISITION.

ALSO ANARCHY.

THIS IS WHERE DEVOUT CATHOLICISM

MIXES WITH SURREALISM, MODERNIST

CUISINE.

CHRISTIANITY AND ISLAM SPARED

SPACE.

THE EFFECTS OF INFLUENCES OF ALL

THOSE THINGS ARE RIGHT HERE TO

SEE.

YOU CAN ALMOST LOOK BACK THROUGH

TIME AND SEE THE VENETIANS

MARCHING UP.

OR ARE THOSE FERAL HIPPIES?

MANY OF THEM MADE THINGS

INTERESTING.

WHEREVER YOU ARE ON THE

IDEOLOGICAL SPECTRUM, SOME

THINGS ARE CONSTANT, IT SEEMS.

SOME STEREOTYPICAL EXPECTATIONS.

IT'S TRUE, THERE ARE FREE TAPAS

EVERYWHERE.

FLAMEN

FLAMENCO, YES, THEY DO THAT

ALSO.

BUT IN GRANADA, THEY DO IT OLD

SCHOOL.

AND OH YEAH, BULLFIGHTING.

THEY DO THAT HERE, TOO.

BUT I DIGRESS.

I'M HERE TO ANSWER A QUESTION.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU GO OVER TO

THE OTHER SIDE?

SAY YOU GREW UP IN THE STATES

AND WONDERED, FANTASIZED ABOUT

WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE LIVING

ABROAD IN OLD EUROPE, SURROUNDED

BY CRUSADER CASTLES, DELICIOUS

FOOD, ANOTHER LANGUAGE, ANOTHER

CULTURE?

WHAT WOULD THAT ALTERNATE LIFE,

THAT ROAD NOT TAKEN BE LIKE?

MY LONGTIME FRIEND AND CAMERAMAN

FROM MAINE ZACK IS FINDING OUT.

SO WHERE ARE WE GOING?

>> RIGHT HERE, ONE OF THESE

TABLES.

MAYBE WE WANT TO DO THIS WITH.

SEE?

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU GO OUT WITH

SOMEBODY WHO CAN APPROPRIATELY

BLOCK THE TABLE?

>> AY, YES, OF COURSE.

SNAILS IN AN ALMOND SAUCE.

ABOUT AS TRADITIONAL AND

DELICIOUS AS IT GETS.

TAPAS COME FROM HERE.

THIS IS STILL ONE OF THE FEW

PLACES IN SPAIN WHERE THEY'RE

FREE.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS KEEP

DRINKING.

>> YOU CAN SIT HERE ALL DAY.

ORDER A COUPLE DRINKS.

>> NO RUSH.

I'M GLAD I'M SPENDING SOME TIME

HERE.

RED WINE ORDERED.

TRIPE TO FOLLOW.

SPENDER, SPICY, DELICIOUS TRIPE.

>> GUTS.

PRETTY GOOD.

>> HELLO.

HELLO.

>> NOT TOO LONG AGO, BEFORE ZACK

BASICALLY DEFECTED TO SPAIN, HE

MET FUEN.

THE NEXT THING YOU KNOW, HE'S

LIVING HERE.

PART OF AN EXTENDED ANDALUCIAN

FAMILY.

LIVING THE LIFE OF THE SPANISH

DANDY.

IN FREAKING GRANADA, NO LESS.

>> CLASSICALLY, CULTURALLY

SPEAKING, DO YOU WANT A

SENSITIVE, NICE, CARING

THOUGHTFUL GUY?

>> WELL, IT DEPENDS ON THE

WOMAN, FIRST.

BUT USUALLY WE LOOK FOR THIS

KIND OF PERSON THAT WE KNOW HE

WILL PROTECT US.

>> FROM WHAT?

FERAL HIPPIES?

>> I WOULD LIKE TO DO THE VOWS

OF YOUR WEDDING.

DO YOU SWEAR TO PROTECT FUEN

SANCHEZ ATTACKS BY CAVE-DWELLING

HIPPIES?

WHO ATTEMPT TO SELL HER JEWELRY

OR OTHER THINGS OF LITTLE VALUE.

>> I FIGURE NOW THAT ZACK IS

MARRYING INTO A SPANISH FAMILY,

I CAN PIGGY BACK ALONG, SUCK OF

THE LURE OF THE MAGIC, LIVE ON

WHAT HAS BEEN MY DREAM, TOO.

>> IF WE CAN GET WEIRD FOR A

SECOND HERE, MAN.

SOME PLACES, DO THEY HAVE AN

ENERGY, MAN, ABOUT THEM?

>> WHAT ARE YOU SAYING?

>> YOU KNOW, I DON'T WANT TO GET

INTO METAPHYSICS.

>> YOU ARE GOING TO END UP

LIVING IN A CAVE IF YOU KEEP

TALKING LIKE THIS.

MORE WINE.

TO SEE SPAIN, TO SEE IT

STRAIGHT, TO UNDERSTAND IT AT

ALL, YOU SHOULD PROBABLY PEEK,

IF ONLY THROUGH SPREAD FINGERS,

AT THAT MOST SPANISH OF

TRADITIONS.

BULLFIGHTING.

MEET ALFANDI, ONE OF SPAIN'S

MOST DASHING AND RESPECTED

BULLFIGHTERS.

HE'S INVITED ME TO A RANCH, A

PRIVATE BULL RING WHERE HE LIKES

TO PRACTICE.

>> SO WHAT YOU'RE GOING TO DO

NOW IS SEE HOW BRAVE --

>> AND IF THE CALF IS NOT BRAVE,

STEW.

>> AND FUEN'S BROTHER ALEJANDRO,

WHO LIKE MANY SPANIARDS,

CONSIDER BULLFIGHTING AN ART.

TODAY A LITTLE PRACTICE FIRST.

DON'T WORRY, THIS GUY IS TOO

YOUNG TO FIGHT.

>> YOU SEE THE RED CAPE, YOU

KNOW THIS IS THE MOST THING.

WHERE THEY MAKE ALL THE ART, ALL

THE POETRY.

>> WHY THE CAPE?

>> BECAUSE IT'S MOVING.

>> SO THAT'S IMPORTANT?

>> YOU DON'T WANT IT TO BE

MOVING AT ALL.

>> THIS GUY CLEARLY HAS SPIRIT.

RIGHT AWAY HE TRIES TO TAKE A

POKE AT ZACK'S FEMORAL ARTERY.

PROMISING.

>> HE'S GOING TO TEACH YOU.

>> NO.

>> SURE.

>> NO ONE LIKES TO LOOK LIKE A

PUSSY ON TV, SO WHEN HE

SUGGESTED I JOIN HIM TO WAVE A

PINK CAPE AT AN AGGRESSIVE YOUNG

BULL, I SAID WHAT ANY IDIOT

WOULD SAY -- SI.

IT ALL STARTS WELL ENOUGH.

HEY, THIS IS FUN.

THIS IS EASY.

UNTIL I GET A HORN HOOKED RIGHT

UP NEXT TO MY NUTSACK.

THEN IT'S NOT SO FUN.

THANKS, GUYS.

THIS YOUNGSTER SHALL LIVE,

PERHAPS TO GORE A FUTURE TV HOST

WITH HIS MIGHTY HORNS.

NOW THIS IS WHAT A REAL BULL

LOOKS LIKE.

THIS IS A WHOLE DIFFERENT THING.

500-FREAKING-KILOS OF AGGRESSIVE

CHARGING KILLDOZER AIMING AT

YOUR MEAT.

IT'S A LOT OF MUSCLE.

>> YEAH, IT'S A LOT OF MUSCLE.

THAT'S A BIG BULL.

*

>> NO MATTER HOW BIG, HOW

STRONG, HOW SCARY, FOR THIS

INTREPID REPORTER WHO'S SEEN

MANY ANIMALS DIE FOR HIS DINNER,

THIS PART IS NEVER EASY.

>> SO AS YOU SEE, HE PUTS THE

CAPE LOWER.

SO WHEN THE BULL BRINGS THE FACE

FORWARD, SHOWING THE NECK --

THAT'S IT.

THAT WAS VERY GOOD.

THAT'S IT.

>> IT'S TIME FOR STU.

BULL STEW.

OUR FRIEND WENT TO A BETTER

PLACE.

LOCAL HERBS, POE TODAY TOES.

NOTHING LIKE A ROARING FIRE,

SPANISH CHEESES, BREAD, AND GOOD

OLIVE OIL TO TAKE THE STING OUT

OF A NEAR GENITAL MUTILATION.

>> IT'S NOT A BAD PLACE.

>> HE STARTED AT AGE 19?

WHEN YOU WERE A LITTLE BOY

GROWING UP, YOU ASPIRED TO BE A

MATADOR.

THE MATADORS WERE THE ORIGINAL

ROCK STARS, THE IDEAL OF

MASCULINITY, MALE BEAUTY, AND

GRACE.

THAT RUNS DEEP.

LIKE IT OR NOT, YOU SHOULD

PROBABLY KNOW THIS BEFORE DATING

A SPANISH GUY.

THERE IS NO DENYING THE TERRIBLE

BEAUTY OF THE VERY COMPLEX

TRADITION.

>> IT'S NOT ABOUT WINNING.

IT'S NOT ABOUT KILLING THE BULL.

AND NOR IS IT ABOUT BEING JUST

SKILLFUL.

YOU HAVE TO LOOK GOOD DOING IT,

TOO.

ARE THERE ANY UGLY ASS

BULLFIGHTERS?

A REALLY OUT OF SHAPE -- A

MUFFIN TOP.

HOW DO YOU CALL A MUFFIN TOP?

>> WE HAVE EVERYTHING.

>> WELL, IT WAS AN EDUCATION

TODAY, AND A GREAT MEAL.

THANK YOU.

>> CHEERS.

>> CHEERS.

>>> HOLY WEEK.

OR SEMANA SANTA AS IT'S CALLED.

OBSERVED ALL OVER SOUTHERN SPAIN

WITH A SERIOUSNESS AND FERVOR

YOU MIGHT NOT SEE ELSEWHERE.

FOR SEVEN DAYS LEADING UP TO

EASTER, NEARLY EVERY CITY IN

ANDALUCIA GETS TAKEN OVER BY

ANCIENT PROCESSIONS.

TO AN OUTSIDER, IT'S AN

IMPENETRABLE MONTAGE OF

CONFUSING, YET DEEPLY EVOCATIVE

IMAGES.

FIGURES IN DARK HOODS LOOM UP

FROM EVERY DIRECTION.

SPOKE POTS OF INSECTS, CANDLES,

RELIGIOUS IMAGERY, AND THE

CROWDS.

FLASHES OF GOYA, DIMLY

REMEMBERED IMPRESSIONS OF THE

INQUISITION.

OKAY, WATCH THIS.

THESE GUYS GOT TO GET THEIR

PAINSTAKINGLY CRAFTED MASSIVELY

SIZED AND INCREDIBLY HEAVY AND

CUMBERSOME FLOAT THROUGH THE

DOOR, DOWN THE STEPS, AND OUT

INTO THE STREET.

PEDRO IS ANOTHER OF FUEN'S

BROTHERS, THE YOUNGEST, AND WHEN

NOT WORKING FOR AN I.T. COMPANY

IN IRELAND, HE DOES THIS.

HE CARRIES CRUSHINGLY HEAVY

RELIGIOUS FLOATS.

THEY'RE CALLED ED CASTELEROS.

THE VIRGIN FLOAT, ABOUT 3,500

POUNDS TOTAL, AND PRECISE

DIMENSIONS THAT HAVE TO MAKE IT

THROUGH DOOR JUST SO.

THE BEARERS HAVE TO KNEEL.

CRAWL ALONG WITH IT ON THEIR

BACKS TO GET IT THROUGH THE

DOOR.

AND THE MAIN EVENT.

READY, SET, UP.

LET'S FACE IT.

I LIKE A PROCESSION AND ALL, BUT

WHO LIKES A BUNCH OF GUYS IN

HOODS COMING IN YOUR GENERAL

DIRECTION?

I DON'T.

FRANKLY, IT FREAKS ME OUT.

TIME FOR A DRINK, PERHAPS.

THIS IS AN EASTERN JESUS AND

MARY-THEMED DRINKING

ESTABLISHMENT, WHERE BETWEEN

DRINKS, ONE CAN PONDER THE AGONY

OF CHRIST, BUT WITH SOME SAUSA

SAUSAGES.

IS IT LIKE THIS ALL YEAR?

>> THE WHOLE YEAR.

YOU HAVE INCENSE ALL YEAR.

EASTERN MUSIC ALL YEAR.

>> IS THIS A WEEK FOR QUIET

CONTEMPLATION AND WORSHIP OR IS

THIS A PARTY WEEK OR BOTH?

>> BOTH OF THEM.

>> THROUGHOUT THE COURSE OF THE

WEEK, OVER 40-ODD PROCESSIONS

WILL CREEP SLOWLY FROM THESE

STREETS.

THERE ARE DIFFERENT

BROTHERHOODS, EACH WITH THEIR

OWN SACRED COLORS, CRESTS,

INSIGNIA AND SO ON.

IT'S THEIR MEDALLIONS OF

PARTICULAR CHRIST IMAGES THAT

ADORN THE BAR.

AND FRANKLY, THEY'RE KIND OF

BUMMING ME OUT.

MAYBE IT'S JUST ME, BUT WHEN I'M

GETTING A NICE LATE MORNING

BUZZ, I DON'T PARTICULARLY WANT

JESUS LOOKING DOWN AT ME FROM,

LIKE, EVERYWHERE.

>> HOW DRUNK CAN YOU GET HERE?

DON'T YOU FEEL A LITTLE GUILTY

FOR GETTING REALLY DRUNK HERE?

>> OF COURSE.

>> THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE

THINGS.

>> TRY IT.

IT'S AMAZING.

>> GAZE AWAY UNAPPROVINGLY ALL

YOU LIKE, JESUS.

I AM HAPPY NOW.

OVERLOOKING GRANADA, THE

HILLSIDE OF SACRAMONTE IS

RIDDLED WITH CAVES, MANY OLDER

THAN ANYONE EVEN REMEMBERS.

SPANISH GYPSIES HAVE LIVED HERE

IN CAVES TURNED HOMES LIKE THIS

FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

*

>> THEY CALL THIS AN JEURGA,

WHAT JAZZ MUSICIANS MIGHT

RECOGNIZE AS A JAM SESSION.

>> GRANADA.

THE ONLY PLACE IN THE WORLD

WHERE YOU GET TO SEE REAL

FLAMENCO IN A CAVE.

>> ALISSIA IS AN AFICIONADO.

OUR HOST IS A POET, HISTORIAN,

AND A PATRIARCH OF THE COMMUNITY

HERE.

AN ICON OF THE FLAMENCO WORLD.

YOU SEE TRAVELERS, ROMA PEOPLE

ARE MORE EMBRACED BY THE CULTURE

HERE THAN MOST OTHER PLACES IN

EUROPE.

>> WE HAVE OUR OWN GYPSIES.

THOSE ARE OURS.

WE CAN TELL YOU THREE THINGS FOR

SURE WE DO HERE.

WE DO FLAMENCO.

WE DO TAPAS.

AND WE DO SIESTAS.

>> YOU DO THEM WELL.

>> WE KNOW HOW TO LIVE, DON'T

WE?

>> YEAH.

*

*

*

*

>> THEY DIG DEEP FOR THEIR

MATERIAL HERE.

IT MEANS SOMETHING.

THEY'RE TELLING YOU SOMETHING

ABOUT THEMSELVES.

>> WHAT IS -- I'VE HEARD IT.

IS IT AN EMOTIONAL STATE OR A

TECHNICAL --

>> NO.

>> IS UNHAPPINESS NECESSARY FOR

GREAT ART?

>> IT'S NECESSARY, BUT

MAGNIFICO.

>> YOU'D HAVE TO THINK ABOUT

THAT.

>> YOU PERFORM VERY WELL AFTER A

COUPLE DAYS.

>> I MAY NOT HAVE ONE DAY,

DUENDE, BUT I HAVE VALENTINE'S.

I KNOW THAT EXPRESSION.

WAIT A MINUTE.

>>> NIGHTTIME IN GRANADA.

IT'S TIME TO PURSUE THAT

GREATEST OF SPANISH TRADITIONS,

TAPAS.

YOU MAY THINK YOU KNOW WHAT A

TAPA IS.

SMALL BITES AT SOME FUSION

HIPSTER BAR.

YEAH, THAT AIN'T A TAPA.

>> HOW OFTEN DO YOU DO THIS?

>> I DO IT FIVE DAYS A WEEK.

BUT, YOU KNOW, IT'S LIKE ON A

WEEKEND, YOU COME OUT FOR A

BUNCH.

WEEKDAY, YOU COME OUT FOR ONE.

>> THIS IS LATANA, A LITTLE

PLACE RUN BY JESUS AND LOUISA,

ONE BARTENDER, ONE COOK, TAKING

CARE OF EVERYTHING.

>> IT'S FREE.

>> SO YOU'RE JUST PAYING FOR THE

WINE.

>> SO IF I'M A WINO, I CAN STILL

EAT WELL.

>> LET US PUT THIS THEORY INTO

PRACTICE.

WITH OUR FIRST ROUND OF DRINKS

COMES THIS.

>> TOMATO WITH BREAD, GARLIC,

AND BLENDED.

>> I COULD PRETTY MUCH EAT THAT

ALL DAY.

THAT'S RIGHT.

TAPAS ARE FREE.

IT SHOULDN'T WORK, BUT SOMEHOW

IT DOES.

ANOTHER DRINK, ANOTHER TAPA.

TOMATO

TOMATOES, OLIVE OIL, BREAD.

>> AWESOME.

IT'S AMAZING.

>> SO ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS KEEP

DRINKING.

>> MAYBE YOU'D BE INTERESTED IN

CAVIAR.

>> REALLY?

THAT'S NOT INCLUDED?

>> THAT'S NOT THE POINT OF THE

TAPAS.

USUALLY YOU HAVE A FEW TAPAS.

>> THEY'RE JUST HOOKING YOU IN

WITH THIS.

>> IT'S ALL A SCAM.

COUPLE LITTLE NIBBLES, THE NEXT

THING YOU KNOW, YOU'RE ORDERING

200 GRAMS OF KAVIER.

CAVIAR AIN'T FREE, MY FRIEND.

>> YOU CAN GO INTO A PLACE LIKE

THIS.

>> SOME HIGH TEST CAVIAR.

>> OH!

>> YOU GUYS ARE GOING TO EAT THE

WHOLE THING IN ONE.

>> SORRY, IS THERE SOMETHING

WRONG WITH THAT?

NOT EVEN MARRIED YET, IT'S NAG,

NAG, NAG.

LET'S DO IT.

AH TAPAS.

WHAT A NOVEL CONCEPT.

TAPAYAR.

MEANING TO TAKE TAPAS.

IF WE'RE GOING TO TAPAYAR SOME

MORE, WE'RE GOING TO HAVE TO

ELBOW PAST THIS CROWD OF

CATHOLICS.

>> IS IT EXTRA INSANE?

YES, BUT IT'S ALWAYS BUSY HERE,

MAN.

>> IT'S JUST ON THE OTHER SIDE.

>> WITH PARADES CRISSCROSSING

THE CITY IN EVERY DIRECTION, THE

STEADY DRUM BEAT WARNS THAT YOUR

ROUTE IS ABOUT TO BE CUT OFF

ENTIRELY FOR THE NEXT 40

MINUTES.

>> WE CAN GET ACROSS.

>> WE HAVE TO GO AROUND.

>> WHERE?

GOING AROUND, GOING AROUND,

GOING AROUND.

>> WE NEED TO WALK PAST.

>> PEOPLE TAKE THEIR PROCESSIONS

VERY SERIOUSLY HERE AND AREN'T

EXACTLY ACCOMMODATING TO ANYONE

WHO THREATENS TO BLOCK THE VIEW.

>> THAT WAS AMAZING, RIGHT?

>> THAT MUSIC.

>> FINALLY, BAR NUMBER TWO.

OLIVER.

THIS PLACE IS ALWAYS PACKED.

BEER, PLEASE.

AND WITH IT COMES A DELIGHTFUL

TAPA OF MUSSELS SEEMED IN BUTTER

AND OLIVE OIL.

>> THAT'S A GREAT TAPA.

THIS IS WHAT'S DIFFERENT.

PEOPLE COME IN HERE AND THEY

WILL EAT LIKE THIS PERFECTLY

HAPPY.

PERFECTLY CONTENT TO FOREGO THE

TABLE, COME HERE, STAND AROUND

AND EAT LIKE THIS.

>> THE GLASS OF WINE COMES WITH

FRIED EGGPLANT AND CURRY.

MORE WINE FOLLOWED BY THESE

DELICIOUS LITTLE CLAMS.

AND THE MAIN EVENT.

>> NOW WE ARE TALKING.

THESE ARE NOT TAPAS AND

CONSEQUENTLY NOT FREE.

BUT WORTH IT AT ANY PRICE.

>> THAT'S SO TOTALLY AWESOME.

WE DID GOOD WORK HERE.

>> SHOULD WE GO ON?

>> NO, LET'S MOVE ON.

>> AS THIS DEATH MARCH OF TAPAS

CONTINUES, THINGS START TO GET A

LITTLE WEIRD.

THIS IS THE STORY OF MY LIFE.

HE DOESN'T DO THIS AT HOME?

>> NO.

NOW I UNDERSTAND HOW YOU FEEL.

>> YES.

>> EVERY DAY.

>> GOOD.

FINALLY.

A LITTLE EMPATHY.

I DO LIKE THE INCREASINGLY

META-ASPECT OF THIS SHOW.

I SHOULD REALLY BE LIVE

SCREENING.

THAT WOULD REALLY BE

INTERESTING.

FINALLY, JUST BAR GALLADO.

JUST MAKING IT.

WE'VE HAD A LOT TO EAT AND DRINK

AT THIS POINT.

SOME RESTRAINT NEEDS TO BE

SHOWN.

DUDE, FRIED FISH.

LITTLE ONES.

>> THEN WE'RE TALKING.

>> AND CHEESE.

>> BUT INSTEAD, THREE MORE

BEERS, THREE MORE TAPAS.

BABY LAMB CHOPS.

>> THESE ARE SUPER GOOD.

>> THESE ARE SUPER GOOD.

I'M UNCOMFORTABLE WITH THE IDEA

OF SOMETHING FOR NOTHING.

>> IT'S NOT SOMETHING FOR

NOTHING.

>> IF SOMEBODY CAN GET DEMAND

FOR IT IN THE U.S., THIS WILL

TAKE OFF.

>> NO, NEVER.

>> REALLY?

>> YOU WILL NEVER HAVE TAPAS

CULTURE.

YOU'RE LOOKING TO CHANGE THE

ENTIRE DAY, FROM THE MINUTE YOU

GET UP IN AMERICA.

NOT IN THE AFTERNOON.

ARE YOU OUT OF YOUR MIND?

>> I WANT TO WALK TO MY BAR, I

WANT TO HAVE A LITTLE BEER.

>> I WANT A GOLDEN UNICORN.

BOTH OF THOSE SCENARIOS ARE

EQUALLY LIKELY.

>>> EVERY STORYBOOK KINGDOM

NEEDS A CASTLE.

GRANADA, IT'S GOT A GOOD ONE.

ONE OF THE MOST ENCHANTED,

INSCRUTABLE, MADDENINGLY

BEAUTIFUL STRUCTURES EVER

CREATED BY MAN.

BUILT ON TOP OF NINTH CENTURY

FORTIFICATIONS AND ADDED TO AND

ADDED TO AS HISTORY UNFOLDED

THROUGH WARS AND TRAGEDY AND

INVASION AND CONQUEST.

>> IT'S VERY BARE.

ALL YOU SEE ARE THE TINY

WINDOWS.

AND IT'S PROJECTING IING IMP

IMPENATRABILITY.

ZACK IS A CINEMATOGRAPHER, SO

YOU CAN UNDERSTAND HOW THAT

MIGHT GET A GRIP ON A GUY WHOSE

PROFESSION IS THE INTRICATE PLAY

BETWEEN LIGHT AND DARKNESS.

>> TRYING TO WEAVE NATURE,

CALLIGRAPHY, SYMBOLS.

THESE ARE ALL INSCRIPTIONS,

TURNED INTO GRAPHICS.

>> DEPICT WORDS FROM GOD.

>> YES, BUT WHAT YOU CAN DEPICT,

AND THIS IS WHAT THIS ENTIRE

PLACE IS, IS GEOMETRIC SYSTEMS.

>> YES.

>> WHEN THE NASRI DYNASTY LIVED

HERE, IT WAS A HARMONIOUS SPACE

WHERE LIGHT, SHADE, WATER, THE

TRANSIT OF THE MOON AND STARS

WERE HARNESSED AND GLORIFIED.

>> I THINK THE BEST ASSUMPTION

IS NOTHING IS RANDOM.

THEY CAME HERE AND LAID OUT

EVERYTHING ACCORDING TO --

>> A PLAN.

IT WAS A PLACE FOR REFLECTION.

EACH ELEMENT OF DESIGN

PRESUMABLY INTENDED TO HAVE

EFFECTS BOTH PSYCHOLOGICAL AND

RELIGIOUS.

>> IT'S REALLY A

CINEMATOGRAPHER'S PARADISE.

EVERYTHING IS ABOUT LIGHT AND

MAN.

EVERYTHING IS FRAMING FOR THEM.

>> HOW LONG DID IT TAKE THEM TO

BUILD THIS?

>> HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

>> THAT'S WHY IT TAKES SO LONG

FOR YOU TO GET THE SHOT?

>> OH, SNAP.

>> IN THE BUILDERS TIME,

ASTRONOMIES, MATHEMATICIANS WERE

LIKE PRIESTS, POSSESSORS OF

DIVINE KNOWLEDGE OF HOW THE

UNIVERSE WORKED.

DID THEY WANT TO CONTEMPLATE

NATURE OR CONQUER IT, CONTROL

IT?

>> THEY WERE CERTAINLY TRYING TO

EMULATE IT.

THEIR MATHEMATICS WERE TRYING TO

FIGURE OUT HOW NATURE WORKED,

PARTICULARLY THE SQUARE ROOTS

AND THE REPETITION OF PATTERN.

>> THEY SAW MATHEMATICAL

PATTERNS IN THE SKY AND ON

EARTH, THE WAY WATER MOVED AND

RIPPLED, THE WAY THINGS GREW,

THE SIMPLE PINE CONE, A FERN, A

POMEGRANATE, AND THEY THOUGHT

ABOUT THE BASIC TRUTHS THESE

THINGS MIGHT REPRESENT.

>> THESE SYMMETRIES CAN ALL BE

SHUFFLED, SPUN ON ANY POINT AND

THEY ALIGN AGAIN WITH

THEMSELVES.

SO IF YOU STRETCHED THEM OUT,

FOR THEM THEY POINTED TO

INFINI

INFINITY.

>> WE WILL UNDERSTAND ALL

THINGS.

>> THROUGH CONTEMPLATING SACRED

GEE OK TOMETRY

GEOMETRY.

>> HOW DID NATURE UNFOLD,

PATTERN ITSELF?

COULD THE BASIC DESIGNS OF

NATURE, EVEN IF DIVINE, BE

REPLICATED IN THIS MAGNIFICENT

STRUCTURE?

THEY'RE TRYING TO SOLVE THE

RIDDLE OF GOD HERE.

>> EXACTLY.

>>> AN HOUR'S DRIVE FROM

GRANADA, THE MEDITERRANEAN.

UNLIKE MUCH OF SPAIN'S COASTLINE

RUINED BY REAL ESTATE

SPECULATORS AND OVERDEVELOPMENT,

THE COAST AROUND HERE IS LARGELY

UNSPOILED.

I'M ON MY WAY TO A MORAGA, A

TRADITION IN THESE PARTS BEST

DESCRIBED AS THE LOCAL VERSION

OF A BEACH BARBECUE.

WORKING THE GRILL, CHEF JUAN

ANDRES MORIA.

HE HEADS THE EL CLAUSTRO IN

GRANADA.

WE'RE JOINED BY FELLOW CHEF

RAFAEL LUCA.

>> THIS IS SOME GOOD-LOOKING

FOOD HERE.

>> SOME OF THAT SIMPLE SALMAREHO

ON TOAST.

ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS.

>> SOME OLIVE OIL.

>> IT'S SPICY.

AND BITTER.

>> AWESOME.

>> SPAIN IS A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.

WE'RE NOT EVEN EATING YET AND

IT'S GOOD.

>> OH, SWEET.

>> WANT MASS.

THAT IS LIKE THE BEST THING IN

THE WORLD.

>> THE WHOLE THING?

>> THIS?

YEAH.

CHOCOLATE.

THIS IS THE CHOCOLATE OF THE

GODS.

>> SOME GRILLED OCTOPUS, AND

SOME NICE PORK TENDERLOIN.

AND MY PERSONAL FAVORITE, A

PARTICULARLY DELICIOUS MORCIA,

FLESH BLOOD SAUSAGE.

>> I'M

BEAUTIFUL.

LOOKING GOOD.

WOW.

LOOK AT THAT.

A LOT OF FAT.

>> YEAH.

IT'S QUITE NICE.

>> THOSE WERE HAPPY PIGS.

LAZY PIGS.

>> THE ONES WE BREED HERE.

>> YEAH, THE PIGS AND THE BULLS

ARE VERY HAPPY HERE.

OKAY.

ENOUGH WITH THE WORK.

LET'S EAT.

NICE.

AWESOME.

GREAT MEAL.

GREAT, GREAT, GREAT.

THIS IS THE DREAM OF ALL THE

WORLD.

THE DREAM IS TO LIVE IN GRENADA.

WORK IN THE MORNING AND GO OUT

AND HAVE THAT LIFE.

GO OUT AND SEE YOUR FRIENDS AND

EAT DAPA AND DRINK RED WINE AND

BE IN A BEAUTIFUL PLACE.

TO HAVE THIS KIND OF MUSIC AND

THIS FOOD AND THIS KIND OF

CULTURE AND TO LOOK OUT THE

WINDOW AND TO SEE SPAIN.

>> ONE THING.

FAMILY.

FAMILY IS VERY, VERY, VERY

IMPORTANT.

>> SEE.

HE DID IT RIGHT.

HE'S MARRYING INTO A SPANISH

FAMILY IN GRENADA.

CHEATING, MAN.

>> HE'S VERY LUCKY.

AND A SMART GUY.

>> RIGHT.

LOOK, NOW ONE IS GOING TO DARE

DREAM OF THIS BECAUSE THIS IS

TOO MUCH TO DREAM FOR.

THIS IS EXTRAORDINARY.

BUT AN ORDINARY LIFE IN SPAIN

LOOKS PRETTY GOOD TO ME.

>>> THE NEW SWINGING ZAMBONI

LIFESTYLE.

RISE EARLY LIKE 9:00 A.M.

THEN DOWN FOR A CAFE COLECHE.

MAYBE MORE LIKE TOMATO.

NO MORE THAN THAT.

LIGHT.

SIMPLE.

BECAUSE THERE WILL BE A LOT MORE

EATING AND DRINKING TODAY, AND

YOU WANT TO BE READY.

BY 2:00 P.M., HE'S MADE HIS WAY

BACK UP HILL TO MOM'S PLACE.

>> EVERY DAY I COME HERE FOR

LUNCH.

AND I WALK IN AND SHE SAYS GET

US TWO BEERS.

SO I'LL GET TWO BEERS FROM THE

FRIDGE AND WATCH HER COOK.

>> EVERYBODY'S HOME FOR EASTER.

MARIA JOSE, ZACH'S SOON TO BE

MOTHER-IN-LAW AND DAD.

PLUS THE SOON TO BE

BROTHERS-IN-LAW WHO YOU'VE

ALREADY MET.

WHAT THIS NICE FAMILY DOESN'T

REALIZE, THEY'RE NOT JUST

GAINING A SON BUT AN ANNOYING

HALF DRUNK UNCLE TONY.

>> AND I KNOW WHAT HAPPENS HERE.

>> SITTING THERE READY TO BE

CARVED.

[ SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]

>> HE HAD TO CUT THE HAM BEFORE

HE PROPOSED TO MY SISTER.

>> I THINK THAT'S A COMPLETELY

REASONABLE POLICY.

EVENTUALLY THE APPROPRIATE HOUR

FOR LUNCH APPROACHES.

IS NOT TO EMBARRASS YOU

PUBLICLY, BUT MAINE IS NOT

EXACTLY THE MEDITERRANEAN OF

AMERICA.

HOW'S HE ADAPTING?

>> HE'S MORE SPANISH THAN ME.

>> REALLY?

>> YEAH.

IN THE FIRST WEEK HE WAS LIKE I

DON'T UNDERSTAND.

WEEK AFTER.

>> IT'S INTERESTING TO SEE HOW

YOU'VE MADE THE TRANSITION.

CHEERS.

[ SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]

>> FIRST OFF, THIS.

BAKALOU SALAD.

EGG, BLACK OLIVES, ORANGES,

TOMATOES DRESSED IN OLIVE OIL.

REMEMBER, THIS IS HOLY WEEK.

MARIA JOSE IS PREPARING RECIPES

THAT GO BACK THROUGH THE FAMILY

SO FAR THAT NOBODY KNOWS EXACTLY

WHERE THEY EVEN CAME FROM.

MIGAS, ANOTHER ICONIC DISH.

FORMALLY REFERRED TO AS THE

SHEPHERD'S LUNCH.

BORN AS A WAY TO USE OLD, HARD

BREAD AND COMBINE ALL THE WEEK'S

LEFTOVERS.

I'M TOLD EVERY HOUSEHOLD IN

SPAIN HAS A VARIATION.

WHAT CHANGES IS WHAT YOU PUT ON

IT.

TODAY IT'S SARDINES, COD, CHO

CHORIZO, AND MELONS.

SO HOW OFTEN DO YOU EAT THIS

WELL?

>> EVERY LUNCH IS LIKE THIS.

EVERY DAY I'M HERE.

BUT LUNCH IS BIG.

BIG LUNCH, SIESTA.

BUT YOU CAN'T -- YOU KNOW, I

USED TO TRY TO RESIST SIESTA.

YOU CAN'T DO IT HERE.

SOCIETY WILL NOT ACCEPT YOU NOT

TAKING SIESTA HERE.

>> THAT BEGS THE QUESTION, WHILE

I'M BUSY HATING YOU FOR YOUR

LIFE, HOW OFTEN ARE YOU GETTING

A DRUNK A DAY?

>> TWICE.

ONE AND A HALF.

[ SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]

>> THAT IS SO SPANISH.

EVERYBODY HAS A VERY DISTINCT

OPINION AND IT'S COMPLETELY

DIFFERENT.

LIKE THIS IS A FACT.

>> WHEN MY TIME COMES, I PRETTY

MUCH WANT TO DIE AT A TABLE LIKE

THIS.

GOOD WORK, ZAMBONI.

GOOD WORK.

SO ZACH, HAPPY WITH THE SHOW?

>> HOPE WE DON'T SUCK ON

TELEVISION.

>> DUDE, I THINK I'M SETTING A

PRETTY LOW BAR.

I'M GOING TO TELL YOU THIS

RELAXED LIFESTYLE, LOUNGING

AROUND EATING AND DRINKING.

NO NAP IS LONG ENOUGH FOR ME.

LIFE IS GOOD.

I ENVY YOU ZACH, ZAMBONI.

AND WE'RE OUT. NICE END.