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Hidden away in the vastness of the
Pacific, and undiscovered by men
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until only a few centuries ago, lies
a group of strange volcanic islands.
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00:00:20,687 --> 00:00:25,943
Each is a crucible where evolution
proceeds at extraordinary speed.
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00:00:29,696 --> 00:00:30,822
Galapagos.
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Each island contains its own unique
community.
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00:00:57,099 --> 00:01:00,561
The discovery of these creatures
inspired an idea
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00:01:00,602 --> 00:01:04,106
that changed our
understanding of life on Earth...
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Evolution.
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00:01:16,118 --> 00:01:19,621
And today, scientists on Galapagos
are continuing to make
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discoveries that shed
light on that crucial process
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00:01:23,125 --> 00:01:26,503
and have revealed that human
beings can be just as powerful
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00:01:26,628 --> 00:01:29,631
a driving force for change as any
other factor.
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Something here was the catalyst that
produced the most spectacular
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00:01:53,280 --> 00:01:57,784
explosion of biological
diversity in the world.
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It's not just the number of species
that appeared,
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00:02:00,662 --> 00:02:05,167
but the rate at which they did so,
and the result is so extraordinary,
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it inspired the most important of
all biological theories -
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00:02:08,545 --> 00:02:12,674
Charles Darwin's evolution by
natural selection.
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And now, 200 years later,
we're beginning to understand
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the deep-lying forces that produced
this biological wonderland.
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00:02:38,450 --> 00:02:41,328
One of those factors is isolation.
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A part of Isabela Island,
the largest of the 16 in the
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archipelago, is so difficult to
get to, it's hardly ever visited.
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Wolf Volcano.
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Its giant crater lies
exactly on the Equator,
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and is encircled
internally by steep cliffs.
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And on its flanks,
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evidence was discovered
of a catastrophe that might,
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paradoxically, eventually lead to
the creation of a new species.
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This flow of recently solidified
lava
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has created an impassable barrier
100 metres wide,
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right through the vegetation.
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00:03:49,897 --> 00:03:54,151
The fresh lava is razor-sharp,
and almost impossible to cross.
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On it lie bones.
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Bleached white by the baking sun,
they're those of giant tortoises.
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Some animals that got stuck
here are still clinging to life.
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Tortoises are tough.
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They can survive for months
without any food or water.
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00:04:33,941 --> 00:04:37,444
And that worsened their fate -
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it will take them months to die.
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00:04:48,830 --> 00:04:53,919
Why so many tortoises tried to cross
the lava barrier, nobody knows.
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00:04:53,961 --> 00:04:59,299
What drove them to keep attempting
this impossible journey?
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Perhaps they were desperately
trying to rejoin
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other members of their group.
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Their deaths, however,
are significant.
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They illustrate a principle that
applies to the whole of nature.
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It's not unique to the Galapagos,
but it's because of the Galapagos
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that we first came to understand it.
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This tragic scene,
filmed for the first time,
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may provide a clue as to how a new
species may start to evolve.
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The lava flow created an impassable
physical barrier
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across the tortoises' territory,
dividing it into two.
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00:05:50,893 --> 00:05:56,523
So two tortoise populations that
were once one must now live apart.
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If there is any significant
difference,
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now or in the future,
between their two territories,
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the tortoises may eventually become
two different species.
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00:06:17,794 --> 00:06:22,174
Animals and plants are evolving
throughout the natural world.
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But it was the strange creatures
of Galapagos that first revealed
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how that happens.
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Nearly 200 years ago, the islands
were visited by a young naturalist.
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On September 16th 1835,
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HMS Beagle arrived in the Galapagos
Islands,
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and the 26-year-old Charles Darwin
stepped ashore to explore.
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At the time,
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very little was known about the
natural history of the islands.
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Darwin, initially, was
fascinated by its geology.
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00:07:09,096 --> 00:07:13,851
But it was the animals that gave him
his historic insight.
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Darwin was only on these
islands for five weeks.
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But in that short time,
there were things he saw
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and conversations
he had which stuck in his mind.
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For example, the British
vice-governor of Floreana Island
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said that he could tell which island
a giant tortoise came from
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simply by the shape of its shell.
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00:07:45,382 --> 00:07:48,760
He pondered on the vice-governor's
casual remark.
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00:07:50,137 --> 00:07:53,098
Why were populations of tortoises
on separate islands
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all slightly
different from one another?
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He set about making a collection of
animals and plants
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from all the islands he visited.
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00:08:17,789 --> 00:08:21,418
Although it was the tortoises that
first alerted Darwin
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00:08:21,543 --> 00:08:25,631
to the differences between animals
on different islands,
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it was his collection of these
undramatic little birds,
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the finches, which provided him
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with the most substantial
evidence for his great theory.
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00:08:39,186 --> 00:08:42,314
We now know that the ancestral
Galapagos finches
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00:08:42,439 --> 00:08:45,317
arrived in these
islands about 2 million years ago.
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00:08:46,693 --> 00:08:51,907
Since then, they have diversified
into a number of different species.
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00:08:51,949 --> 00:08:54,034
Today, there are 13 of them,
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distributed throughout the
archipelago.
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Each has its own special talents.
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00:09:01,583 --> 00:09:04,837
The woodpecker finch has discovered
how to use a tool
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00:09:04,962 --> 00:09:08,841
to winkle grubs out of their burrows
in the branches of trees.
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00:09:14,721 --> 00:09:19,601
The vampire finch has learned how to
extract blood from sitting birds.
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00:09:25,983 --> 00:09:29,319
Darwin, when he returned to England,
brought back with him
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00:09:29,361 --> 00:09:32,114
a wide variety of specimens
of all kinds,
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and he spent years
studying his collections.
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00:09:40,873 --> 00:09:44,209
He had a range of finches
from several of the islands,
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and he noticed one particular
way in which they differed.
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They had beaks of different sizes.
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00:09:55,762 --> 00:09:56,889
Why?
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00:10:00,726 --> 00:10:02,644
An idea grew in his mind.
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00:10:05,647 --> 00:10:10,027
It would also apply to tortoises -
maybe to all animals and plants,
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00:10:10,152 --> 00:10:11,528
wherever they occurred.
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00:10:16,533 --> 00:10:20,162
Painstakingly, meticulously,
he started to accumulate
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00:10:20,287 --> 00:10:23,999
evidence from all over the world to
support his idea,
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and he called the process that
produced new species
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"evolution by natural selection."
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00:10:35,761 --> 00:10:38,764
And nowhere is its workings
more vivadly evident,
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00:10:38,931 --> 00:10:42,434
than here when it first occured to him,
in the Galapogos.
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He realised why it was
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00:10:46,939 --> 00:10:49,566
that there were several species of
giant tortoises.
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00:10:52,319 --> 00:10:57,574
That original species probably had
a high-domed shell, like this one,
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00:10:57,699 --> 00:11:01,537
and that's very useful on well
watered islands like this,
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00:11:01,578 --> 00:11:04,790
where you have to barge your way
through the vegetation.
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00:11:04,831 --> 00:11:08,585
But on other islands,
there are other problems.
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00:11:17,344 --> 00:11:21,723
In the southeast corner of the
archipelago lies Espanola Island.
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00:11:29,106 --> 00:11:33,735
Here, there is virtually no edible
vegetation at all.
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00:11:35,487 --> 00:11:40,242
Except, that is, for this prickly
pear cactus, opuntia.
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00:11:41,493 --> 00:11:45,372
But this species of opuntia
is very tall.
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00:11:46,582 --> 00:11:49,209
And it has a tough, woody trunk.
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00:11:49,251 --> 00:11:51,211
The only parts worth eating
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are the fleshy leaves and flowers
at the top.
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00:11:55,132 --> 00:11:58,510
Any giant tortoise that could
reach them could get a meal.
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00:12:01,388 --> 00:12:05,893
Tortoises with low, round fronts
to their shells couldn't do that.
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00:12:09,521 --> 00:12:12,149
But those with
a peak at the front of their shell,
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00:12:12,274 --> 00:12:15,402
and long necks,
could just manage it.
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00:12:15,527 --> 00:12:19,281
So they were the ones that survived
and produced young.
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00:12:24,912 --> 00:12:28,790
Over many thousands of generations
and millions of years,
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00:12:28,916 --> 00:12:31,543
the shell shape of the Espanola
tortoise
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became more and more
exaggerated.
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00:12:38,675 --> 00:12:43,180
Now, the peak at the front of the
shell is shaped like a saddle.
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00:12:50,687 --> 00:12:53,565
Such a change didn't happen
just on Espanola -
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00:12:53,690 --> 00:12:56,068
different islands
had their own versions.
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00:12:59,446 --> 00:13:03,075
Eventually, there were 15 different
species on the islands,
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00:13:03,158 --> 00:13:05,577
all descended from a single founder.
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00:13:09,081 --> 00:13:14,336
But why should the environments
of the islands be so different?
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00:13:14,461 --> 00:13:18,966
Well, a hint of that reason may
come from looking at films
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00:13:19,049 --> 00:13:21,844
I shot right here, back in 1978.
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00:13:23,095 --> 00:13:26,682
(SPEAKING IN 1978) In these
programmes, we're going to survey
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00:13:26,723 --> 00:13:30,227
the immeasurable number of animals
that have been produced
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00:13:30,352 --> 00:13:34,356
by natural selection, and look
at them not as isolated oddities...
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00:13:34,481 --> 00:13:40,821
That image of me, shot 30 years ago,
indicates something extraordinary.
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00:13:40,863 --> 00:13:46,869
In that time, the rock on which
I was sitting has moved its position
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00:13:46,994 --> 00:13:52,875
by about a metre from where I was
then to where I am now.
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00:13:52,958 --> 00:13:55,252
In fact, the whole of this island
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is drifting across the surface of
the globe
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00:13:58,505 --> 00:14:01,633
at a rate of about three
centimetres a year,
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00:14:01,758 --> 00:14:05,137
roughly the rate at which
my fingernails grow.
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00:14:05,262 --> 00:14:09,266
That may not sound much, but in
the 3 million odd years
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00:14:09,391 --> 00:14:13,896
since this island emerged above the
surface of the ocean,
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00:14:14,021 --> 00:14:19,776
it has drifted in a south-easterly
direction by about 60 miles.
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00:14:24,281 --> 00:14:28,160
Movements in the Earth's
crust are the key to understanding
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00:14:28,285 --> 00:14:31,663
the archipelago's extraordinary
evolutionary history.
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00:14:33,290 --> 00:14:37,002
A giant hotspot,
rising from the Earth's molten core,
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00:14:37,044 --> 00:14:41,423
began to build the Galapagos
4 million years ago.
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00:14:54,061 --> 00:14:56,897
But, as the island drifted
away from it,
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00:14:56,939 --> 00:15:00,317
other volcanoes replaced it,
one after the other.
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00:15:03,570 --> 00:15:08,200
Each was built from an accumulation
of ash and lava.
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00:15:09,701 --> 00:15:14,081
But then, as each moved away,
eruptions ceased.
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00:15:17,960 --> 00:15:20,963
So a group of islands appeared,
one after the other.
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00:15:34,977 --> 00:15:37,855
The islands were separated from
one another by water,
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00:15:37,980 --> 00:15:41,942
so their populations
can't, for the most part, mix.
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00:15:41,984 --> 00:15:45,362
But they're just close
enough for an occasional animal
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to float across and
so seed a newly emerging island.
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00:15:52,244 --> 00:15:54,872
Because the islands
are of different ages,
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00:15:54,997 --> 00:15:59,251
they contain between them a great
variety of environments.
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00:16:01,628 --> 00:16:05,632
And each has moulded
its inhabitants in its own way.
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00:16:08,760 --> 00:16:12,264
That is why their animals are
so diverse.
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00:16:20,272 --> 00:16:24,026
Each is a separate
evolutionary community.
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00:16:39,166 --> 00:16:42,920
Darwin had noticed
some of the clearest differences.
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00:16:46,798 --> 00:16:50,302
But there are many others
that are less obvious.
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An isolated population of animals
can change
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not only in their anatomy,
but in their behaviour.
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00:17:07,569 --> 00:17:11,698
Little lizards like this are found
throughout the archipelago.
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00:17:15,577 --> 00:17:18,956
Each island has its own
distinct species.
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00:17:22,459 --> 00:17:25,337
And they differ not so much
in the way they look
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00:17:25,420 --> 00:17:27,464
as the way they behave.
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00:17:35,347 --> 00:17:38,475
This is a lava lizard.
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00:17:39,852 --> 00:17:43,605
There are lots of them
on the rocks around here.
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00:17:43,730 --> 00:17:46,692
And in the breeding season,
which is now,
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00:17:46,733 --> 00:17:51,363
the males are competing with one
another,
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00:17:51,446 --> 00:17:54,867
both for territory and for females.
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00:17:54,992 --> 00:18:00,122
And the way they do so is with
press-ups.
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Watch.
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00:18:02,124 --> 00:18:04,126
(CLICKING)
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00:18:10,007 --> 00:18:15,012
Actually, this is a model that is
used by scientists
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00:18:15,137 --> 00:18:19,850
to investigate the way in which
these lizards communicate
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with one another.
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00:18:21,393 --> 00:18:22,895
Let's see how he gets on.
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00:18:27,024 --> 00:18:29,151
(CLICKING)
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00:18:35,282 --> 00:18:36,658
And there's a response.
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00:18:38,911 --> 00:18:43,665
These press-ups vary, both
in the number and the intensity,
192
00:18:43,790 --> 00:18:45,417
the speed at which they do it...
193
00:18:47,794 --> 00:18:49,671
..and how high they bob their heads.
194
00:18:52,799 --> 00:18:57,888
The interesting thing is that the
responses vary
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00:18:57,930 --> 00:19:00,432
from species to species.
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00:19:00,557 --> 00:19:06,688
In other words, each species
has its own language of gestures.
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00:19:11,318 --> 00:19:13,570
There are slight physical
differences
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00:19:13,695 --> 00:19:17,199
between the species of
lava lizard on different islands.
199
00:19:19,826 --> 00:19:23,205
But now, because they have
developed different gestures,
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00:19:23,330 --> 00:19:25,958
they can't interbreed, even if
they meet.
201
00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:30,462
They're separated by a language
barrier.
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00:22:47,201 --> 00:22:49,369
Galapagos, for its size,
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00:22:49,494 --> 00:22:52,623
has more unique species than
anywhere else on Earth.
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00:22:54,750 --> 00:22:56,627
And all have
appeared in the islands'
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00:22:56,752 --> 00:22:58,504
comparatively short history.
206
00:23:05,469 --> 00:23:08,555
But that raises another
intriguing question
207
00:23:10,599 --> 00:23:14,186
Why, did such a great number
appear so quickly?
208
00:23:17,105 --> 00:23:21,151
The answer is to do with the
absence of some animals
209
00:23:26,198 --> 00:23:27,783
Predators.
210
00:23:30,244 --> 00:23:33,997
The few that are here,
are all very small
211
00:24:18,125 --> 00:24:22,462
The greatest concentrations of predators
in the whole Archipelago
212
00:24:22,588 --> 00:24:25,674
is found on the rocky
island of Fernandina.
213
00:24:27,676 --> 00:24:30,721
But they too, of their kind
are rather small
214
00:24:30,804 --> 00:24:33,307
and comparatively ineffectual.
215
00:24:34,808 --> 00:24:36,810
Snakes
216
00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:40,689
The Galapagos racer.
217
00:24:44,067 --> 00:24:48,071
They search for prey
in the colonies of marine iguanas.
218
00:24:51,825 --> 00:24:54,953
But all they can manage to do is to
pick off the young,
219
00:24:55,037 --> 00:24:57,080
the weak and the dying.
220
00:24:57,206 --> 00:24:59,082
And even that they find quite
difficult.
221
00:25:02,461 --> 00:25:05,589
They hunt in the rocks
around the fringes of the colony.
222
00:25:08,592 --> 00:25:11,845
They have to use a combination
of both venom and constriction
223
00:25:11,929 --> 00:25:12,971
to make a kill.
224
00:25:19,853 --> 00:25:22,856
And even then,
because they're small snakes,
225
00:25:22,981 --> 00:25:25,984
it may take more than one to
overcome a victim.
226
00:25:34,493 --> 00:25:37,746
And then there's a tug of war
between the winners to settle
227
00:25:37,871 --> 00:25:39,373
who has the prize.
228
00:25:50,759 --> 00:25:55,389
There are other predators that
prey on the iguanas from the air.
229
00:26:00,269 --> 00:26:01,770
The Galapagos hawk.
230
00:26:05,607 --> 00:26:07,526
(BIRDS CALL)
231
00:26:11,405 --> 00:26:15,158
But even this hunter is seldom
powerful enough to subdue
232
00:26:15,284 --> 00:26:16,535
a big male.
233
00:26:18,412 --> 00:26:22,916
It usually waits until it finds one
that is weak or encumbered.
234
00:26:38,432 --> 00:26:42,060
A pregnant female, trying to find
a place to lay her eggs.
235
00:26:57,284 --> 00:27:00,078
And there are not many hawks here.
236
00:27:00,162 --> 00:27:02,915
Only 150 mated pairs,
237
00:27:02,956 --> 00:27:06,335
because there's only a limited
number of nesting sites.
238
00:27:08,712 --> 00:27:12,466
There are so few birds that they
make very little impact
239
00:27:12,591 --> 00:27:14,343
on the iguana population.
240
00:27:16,970 --> 00:27:20,599
So why are there no larger
predators on Galapagos?
241
00:27:22,601 --> 00:27:25,604
Most of the Galapagos animals
came from the rainforests
242
00:27:25,687 --> 00:27:28,357
of South America, 600 miles away.
243
00:27:28,440 --> 00:27:30,234
(THUNDERCLAP)
244
00:27:30,359 --> 00:27:33,612
There are plenty of big
predators in these forests.
245
00:27:43,121 --> 00:27:46,583
Reptiles got to Galapagos
by floating across the ocean
246
00:27:46,625 --> 00:27:48,126
on rafts of vegetation.
247
00:27:52,631 --> 00:27:56,009
Only hardy animals like the iguanas
and tortoises
248
00:27:56,134 --> 00:27:58,262
could make that 600 mile voyage.
249
00:28:04,268 --> 00:28:07,521
The great predators of the jungles,
however, are mammals -
250
00:28:07,646 --> 00:28:11,775
big, fast, and warm-blooded,
like jaguars.
251
00:28:18,365 --> 00:28:20,409
(ROARS)
252
00:28:29,543 --> 00:28:33,172
If any of them had ever been carried
away on a raft of vegetation,
253
00:28:33,297 --> 00:28:37,050
they would have perished out on the
open ocean within a few days.
254
00:28:39,052 --> 00:28:42,556
So now, while there are many
kinds of herbivorous reptiles
255
00:28:42,681 --> 00:28:43,932
in the Galapagos...
256
00:28:45,184 --> 00:28:48,312
..there are no large predatory
mammals of any kind.
257
00:28:49,813 --> 00:28:54,318
And this has had a profound effect
on the animals that did get here.
258
00:28:56,195 --> 00:28:59,948
It's something noticed by every
visitor who comes to the islands.
259
00:29:03,827 --> 00:29:07,331
All the animals here
are amazingly tame.
260
00:29:11,335 --> 00:29:15,589
Even the little finches are happy to
bathe within inches of a stranger.
261
00:29:19,343 --> 00:29:24,223
The lack of predators may have a
surprisingly widespread effect.
262
00:29:24,348 --> 00:29:27,601
It's not just that animals are not
frightened of strangers,
263
00:29:27,684 --> 00:29:30,354
the so-called "island tameness",
264
00:29:30,479 --> 00:29:35,067
but that time that would be spent
hiding from attackers
265
00:29:35,108 --> 00:29:39,863
can now be used to find food, find
mates and raise young,
266
00:29:39,988 --> 00:29:44,993
and so produce more young, which
hastens the progress of evolution.
267
00:29:51,875 --> 00:29:54,837
There is no more impressive
example of that
268
00:29:54,878 --> 00:29:57,005
than Fernandina's iguana colony.
269
00:29:59,007 --> 00:30:01,218
With no significant
predators around,
270
00:30:01,260 --> 00:30:04,263
these herbivores produce
lots of young.
271
00:30:06,765 --> 00:30:10,727
So many, that their problem is not
how to defend themselves,
272
00:30:10,769 --> 00:30:14,273
but how to find enough food to
support their great numbers.
273
00:30:15,524 --> 00:30:18,151
So they ventured into the sea
itself,
274
00:30:18,235 --> 00:30:21,405
to graze seaweed on the sea floor.
275
00:30:23,657 --> 00:30:27,786
And although swimming in the cold
sea cools them uncomfortably,
276
00:30:27,870 --> 00:30:29,538
with no predators around,
277
00:30:29,663 --> 00:30:32,791
they can soon put that
right by stretching out in the sun.
278
00:30:42,301 --> 00:30:45,387
The lack of big predators has
had an effect
279
00:30:45,429 --> 00:30:48,182
on all the animals of
the Galapagos.
280
00:30:48,307 --> 00:30:53,020
They reproduce freely,
so populations increase rapidly.
281
00:30:53,061 --> 00:30:56,190
And so, consequently,
does evolutionary change.
282
00:30:59,568 --> 00:31:01,069
(BIRD CALLS)
283
00:31:26,345 --> 00:31:29,473
But island tameness has dangers.
284
00:31:31,600 --> 00:31:34,102
If a major predator does appear,
285
00:31:34,228 --> 00:31:37,981
then wildlife will be ill-equipped
to defend itself.
286
00:31:45,864 --> 00:31:47,616
And one did.
287
00:31:47,699 --> 00:31:49,743
In the year 1535,
288
00:31:49,868 --> 00:31:53,747
the most successful predatory
animal of all arrived...
289
00:31:56,250 --> 00:31:57,501
Man.
290
00:32:02,631 --> 00:32:04,508
By the beginning of the 17th
century,
291
00:32:04,633 --> 00:32:08,262
the islands had become
a haven for pirates.
292
00:32:08,345 --> 00:32:10,138
By the 19th century,
293
00:32:10,264 --> 00:32:14,142
whalers and merchantmen were calling
here regularly,
294
00:32:14,268 --> 00:32:17,646
and all these ships
had a disastrous effect.
295
00:32:20,274 --> 00:32:24,027
There is little or no fresh
water on these islands,
296
00:32:24,152 --> 00:32:27,906
but they have a much rarer resource.
297
00:32:28,031 --> 00:32:33,620
Giant tortoises can survive without
food or water for very long periods,
298
00:32:33,662 --> 00:32:37,541
so ships could come here,
collect the tortoises,
299
00:32:37,666 --> 00:32:40,919
stow them in the hold,
and then after weeks at sea,
300
00:32:41,170 --> 00:32:44,923
bring one out, butcher it,
and have a meal of fresh meat.
301
00:32:51,305 --> 00:32:55,309
Slow, lumbering, and with no
way of defending themselves,
302
00:32:55,392 --> 00:32:57,811
the tortoises were easy victims.
303
00:33:00,189 --> 00:33:02,566
The population was decimated.
304
00:33:04,318 --> 00:33:06,945
Between the 16th and 20th centuries,
305
00:33:07,070 --> 00:33:10,324
more than 100,000 were taken away
and slaughtered.
306
00:33:12,242 --> 00:33:14,578
And the ships brought other dangers
307
00:33:49,446 --> 00:33:51,573
Pinta, located on the shipping route
308
00:33:51,698 --> 00:33:54,576
around the northern fringe of the
archipelago,
309
00:33:54,701 --> 00:33:58,830
was a favourite stopover for ships
and their hungry crews.
310
00:33:58,956 --> 00:34:02,584
And the unique Pinta tortoise was
presumed extinct
311
00:34:02,709 --> 00:34:04,962
by the early 20th century.
312
00:34:09,591 --> 00:34:15,472
But in 1972, an amazing discovery
was made and filmed.
313
00:34:15,597 --> 00:34:19,726
A living male Pinta tortoise was
discovered in the undergrowth.
314
00:34:20,978 --> 00:34:24,857
He was taken off to a protected
enclosure on the main island,
315
00:34:24,982 --> 00:34:27,359
to live out his days in comfort
and safety.
316
00:34:30,362 --> 00:34:34,241
Here, he became
an international celebrity,
317
00:34:34,366 --> 00:34:37,119
and he was given a name to
reflect his state -
318
00:34:39,204 --> 00:34:40,497
Lonesome George.
319
00:34:43,876 --> 00:34:46,253
He's about 80 years old,
320
00:34:46,378 --> 00:34:49,631
and he's getting a bit
creaky in his joints...
321
00:34:49,756 --> 00:34:52,634
As, indeed, am I.
322
00:34:54,136 --> 00:35:00,475
He is arguably the rarest
animal in the world -
323
00:35:00,517 --> 00:35:03,854
certainly, there can be none rarer,
324
00:35:03,896 --> 00:35:07,232
for he is the last of his kind.
325
00:35:07,274 --> 00:35:12,154
His female died a long,
long time ago.
326
00:35:12,279 --> 00:35:19,036
When he dies, the Pinta species of
Galapagos tortoise will be extinct.
327
00:35:19,161 --> 00:35:23,790
But he is a very important animal.
328
00:35:23,916 --> 00:35:27,252
Probably more than any other single
creature,
329
00:35:27,294 --> 00:35:32,049
he's focused the attention
of the world on the fragility
330
00:35:32,174 --> 00:35:36,929
of our environment,
and he's stimulated science
331
00:35:37,054 --> 00:35:42,309
to look into whole new areas
of research here in the Galapagos.
332
00:35:47,439 --> 00:35:52,819
Just 14 days after we filmed
Lonesome, he died in his sleep.
333
00:35:55,822 --> 00:35:57,324
But he's not forgotten.
334
00:36:01,453 --> 00:36:05,541
Lonesome George's story, like
Darwin's fleeting but famous visit
335
00:36:05,582 --> 00:36:09,962
200 years ago, has attracted many
visitors to the islands.
336
00:36:22,224 --> 00:36:24,810
Today, the archipelago is the basis
337
00:36:24,852 --> 00:36:27,980
of a multi-million dollar
tourist industry.
338
00:36:28,105 --> 00:36:32,109
30,000 people live here,
in three small towns,
339
00:36:32,234 --> 00:36:36,446
and fleets of small boats take
visitors on carefully-planned trips
340
00:36:36,488 --> 00:36:38,365
to see the islands' main sights.
341
00:36:41,243 --> 00:36:44,746
It took animals and plants millions
of years to find
342
00:36:44,788 --> 00:36:46,790
and collonise the Galapogos
343
00:37:45,557 --> 00:37:49,561
Scientists are now trying to analyse
the impact of human beings
344
00:37:49,686 --> 00:37:52,314
on the course of evolution in the
islands.
345
00:37:56,860 --> 00:37:58,737
And, surprisingly perhaps,
346
00:37:58,779 --> 00:38:03,408
the finches that Darwin made famous
are still providing new insights.
347
00:38:11,333 --> 00:38:15,587
Biologist Andrew Hendry is looking
at how the finches' evolution
348
00:38:15,712 --> 00:38:18,590
may have been affected by human
settlements.
349
00:38:20,217 --> 00:38:22,344
When humans come into a new
location,
350
00:38:22,469 --> 00:38:25,681
essentially what
they do is change the environment,
351
00:38:25,722 --> 00:38:28,851
and that's changing selection that's
acting on the populations.
352
00:38:32,354 --> 00:38:38,360
Hendry is studying one particular
species - the medium ground finch.
353
00:38:38,485 --> 00:38:40,320
OK, yeah.
354
00:38:40,362 --> 00:38:44,491
Remarkably, he's found that this
finch, in its natural setting,
355
00:38:44,616 --> 00:38:47,870
is on the verge of dividing into two
separate species.
356
00:38:49,872 --> 00:38:52,624
The two are defined by the size
of their beaks.
357
00:38:53,750 --> 00:38:56,003
One is small, the other, large.
358
00:38:57,379 --> 00:38:59,631
The difference between them has been
caused
359
00:38:59,715 --> 00:39:01,633
by the types of food they eat.
360
00:39:02,759 --> 00:39:06,513
So, if you feed on some small seed,
you tend to have a small beak,
361
00:39:06,638 --> 00:39:10,100
and if you feed on large seed,
you tend to have a really big beak
362
00:39:10,142 --> 00:39:11,518
and you tend to have a hard bite.
363
00:39:13,770 --> 00:39:17,858
Remarkably, Hendry has found
that among medium ground finches
364
00:39:17,900 --> 00:39:22,529
that live near human beings, the
distinct big and small beak forms
365
00:39:22,654 --> 00:39:24,031
are getting fewer.
366
00:39:33,540 --> 00:39:38,295
It's as if the two variants are here
merging back into one.
367
00:39:43,175 --> 00:39:47,679
The presence of human beings has
stopped this finch from evolving.
368
00:39:51,183 --> 00:39:55,562
We found that they feed a lot
on human food, ranging from rice
369
00:39:55,687 --> 00:40:01,318
to fruit to grains to potato chips,
and feeding on those types
370
00:40:01,443 --> 00:40:05,030
of different foods, it doesn't
really seem to matter what your beak
371
00:40:05,072 --> 00:40:06,281
size is any more.
372
00:40:06,323 --> 00:40:09,952
So it seems like humans have caused
a speciation reversal -
373
00:40:10,077 --> 00:40:13,330
they're fusing back together again
as a result of human influences.
374
00:40:31,223 --> 00:40:35,936
So, human beings can be just as much
a part of nature as the forces
375
00:40:35,978 --> 00:40:39,982
that first shaped these islands
and the organisms that live on them.
376
00:40:42,109 --> 00:40:47,364
But human beings can not only
destroy...they can conserve.
377
00:40:49,408 --> 00:40:54,538
In the 1970s, the tortoise
population reached an all-time low.
378
00:40:54,621 --> 00:40:56,832
there were only a few thousand
of them left
379
00:40:59,459 --> 00:41:04,089
Now, there's a major breeding
programme for them.
380
00:41:10,846 --> 00:41:14,099
The tortoise population today
is increasing.
381
00:41:16,101 --> 00:41:19,855
Once-threatened species have been
brought back from the brink.
382
00:41:28,488 --> 00:41:33,076
And scientists are discovering
just how important and influential
383
00:41:33,118 --> 00:41:35,621
this reintroduction programme
might be.
384
00:41:37,748 --> 00:41:41,502
On Alcedo Volcano, home for the
largest population
385
00:41:41,627 --> 00:41:45,255
of free-roaming giant tortoises,
a study has shown
386
00:41:45,506 --> 00:41:49,760
that they're crucial to the health
of all the surrounding wildlife.
387
00:42:07,528 --> 00:42:13,492
Biologist Steve Blake uses satellite
tags to track their movements.
388
00:42:13,534 --> 00:42:15,536
(RADIO CRACKLES)
389
00:42:17,162 --> 00:42:20,541
They reveal, to most people's
great surprise,
390
00:42:20,666 --> 00:42:25,420
that the tortoises migrate over huge
distances,
391
00:42:25,546 --> 00:42:28,924
from the depths of the crater,
right up to the rim.
392
00:42:28,131 --> 00:42:29,508
It's just phenomenal.
393
00:42:29,633 --> 00:42:35,222
Why would a 600lb reptile
migrate from sea level
394
00:42:35,264 --> 00:42:38,141
to up to 1,000 metres on
some islands?
395
00:42:40,769 --> 00:42:44,022
From the air, the routes the
tortoises take are clearly visible.
396
00:42:51,530 --> 00:42:55,033
And they use the same highways,
year after year.
397
00:43:01,915 --> 00:43:06,628
One of the fundamental drivers
of the migration seems to be food.
398
00:43:06,670 --> 00:43:09,548
Tortoises tend to come to
the highlands
399
00:43:09,631 --> 00:43:11,550
at the coolest time of year.
400
00:43:11,675 --> 00:43:14,803
Up in the highlands, they can feed
on a year-round,
401
00:43:14,928 --> 00:43:16,430
low-quality food source.
402
00:43:16,555 --> 00:43:20,142
But then when the rains kick in,
the lowlands tend to green up,
403
00:43:20,184 --> 00:43:23,437
and the tortoises go down there,
probably to fatten up.
404
00:43:26,315 --> 00:43:29,818
But Blake's studies reveal much
more about the tortoises
405
00:43:29,902 --> 00:43:31,320
than just where they go.
406
00:43:32,446 --> 00:43:36,158
They demonstrate the extraordinary
effect that tortoises have
407
00:43:36,200 --> 00:43:38,452
on their surrounding environment.
408
00:43:43,832 --> 00:43:49,213
They create special conditions that
suit all kinds of other animals.
409
00:43:50,923 --> 00:43:53,342
They shape and prune the landscape.
410
00:43:54,468 --> 00:43:58,597
They disperse seeds,
trample down the undergrowth,
411
00:43:58,722 --> 00:44:01,225
and trim the lowest
branches of the bushes.
412
00:44:02,726 --> 00:44:07,105
And all that allows seeds to
germinate.
413
00:44:07,231 --> 00:44:10,984
It disturbs insects, so that they
can be gathered by hungry predators.
414
00:44:13,737 --> 00:44:18,492
Their dung is also crucial to the
survival of many other creatures.
415
00:44:20,702 --> 00:44:22,829
Beetles lay their eggs in it,
416
00:44:22,871 --> 00:44:26,750
and their larvae grow fat on the
nutriment that it still contains.
417
00:45:00,117 --> 00:45:02,494
The implications are very
important -
418
00:45:02,619 --> 00:45:05,497
they suggest that the
reintroduction of tortoises
419
00:45:05,622 --> 00:45:09,126
to islands where their numbers have
been seriously reduced
420
00:45:09,251 --> 00:45:12,629
could restore the richness of the
whole environment.
421
00:45:14,464 --> 00:45:17,593
We have the chance to bring back
the full glory
422
00:45:17,676 --> 00:45:20,220
of these fragile ecosystems.
423
00:45:32,524 --> 00:45:36,486
Today, unlike many other tropical
islands elsewhere,
424
00:45:36,528 --> 00:45:42,159
95% of Galapagos's biodiversity
still survives.
425
00:45:44,119 --> 00:45:45,245
Just.
426
00:45:51,793 --> 00:45:56,423
And amazingly, new species are still
being discovered.
427
00:46:02,346 --> 00:46:06,850
One was found just 35 miles
north of Alcedo,
428
00:46:06,975 --> 00:46:10,854
on the giant, little-visited
volcano, Wolf.
429
00:46:20,614 --> 00:46:23,367
To get to Wolf,
you really need a helicopter.
430
00:46:23,492 --> 00:46:25,869
It's one of the most hostile and
least-explored parts
431
00:46:25,994 --> 00:46:27,496
of the whole archipelago.
432
00:46:30,123 --> 00:46:33,377
There had been rumours of
something strange
433
00:46:33,502 --> 00:46:36,380
living up on these
remote, high slopes.
434
00:46:42,386 --> 00:46:45,013
Something that lived in burrows,
435
00:46:45,138 --> 00:46:47,766
and only emerged every now
and then to feed.
436
00:46:59,152 --> 00:47:02,155
A scientific team went up to
investigate.
437
00:47:22,676 --> 00:47:25,679
What they discovered
astonished everybody.
438
00:47:29,057 --> 00:47:32,436
A completely new and unknown species
of reptile.
439
00:47:36,523 --> 00:47:38,442
A pink iguana.
440
00:47:45,073 --> 00:47:47,951
Until now, it was thought that the
Galapagos possessed
441
00:47:48,076 --> 00:47:49,953
only three species of iguana.
442
00:47:52,956 --> 00:47:56,084
The black marine iguana,
that lives on the seashore.
443
00:47:57,461 --> 00:48:00,589
And two species of yellow iguana
that live inland,
444
00:48:00,714 --> 00:48:03,342
feeding on cacti
and other vegetation.
445
00:48:07,221 --> 00:48:10,724
This land iguana is certainly
the most closely related
446
00:48:10,849 --> 00:48:12,726
to the newly discovered one.
447
00:48:15,604 --> 00:48:19,107
Genetic studies of the 100 or
so individuals that make up this
448
00:48:19,233 --> 00:48:23,737
tiny population have shown that it
diverged from its land iguana
449
00:48:23,862 --> 00:48:26,615
cousins more than
5 million years ago.
450
00:48:28,242 --> 00:48:32,621
So, amazingly, it has been here
just as long as the other two,
451
00:48:32,746 --> 00:48:36,124
but has remained unknown to science
until now.
452
00:48:52,724 --> 00:48:55,602
And of course, there is another
great mystery
453
00:48:55,686 --> 00:48:57,479
that no-one has yet explained...
454
00:49:01,567 --> 00:49:03,861
Nobody knows why it's pink.
455
00:49:05,112 --> 00:49:09,992
Could it be that to be pink up here
brings something good?
456
00:49:10,117 --> 00:49:11,493
We don't know.
457
00:49:12,744 --> 00:49:17,624
Maybe this was once spread widely
over the island,
458
00:49:17,749 --> 00:49:21,378
and this is just the relic
population that's left.
459
00:49:21,461 --> 00:49:23,255
Again, we don't know.
460
00:49:24,840 --> 00:49:26,008
Goodbye.
461
00:49:27,509 --> 00:49:30,888
But there's one thing that is
quite certain,
462
00:49:31,013 --> 00:49:35,017
and that is that there's a lot
we have yet to learn about the
463
00:49:35,142 --> 00:49:39,730
enchanted islands, and about the
animals that have evolved here.
464
00:49:39,771 --> 00:49:45,152
And of one thing, I have no doubt -
Charles Darwin would be delighted.
465
00:49:51,783 --> 00:49:54,244
In just a few million years,
466
00:49:54,286 --> 00:49:57,915
this empty expanse of ocean was
transformed.
467
00:49:59,416 --> 00:50:04,046
A series of volcanoes broke
the surface and built the islands.
468
00:50:13,055 --> 00:50:17,309
Against heavy odds,
a few species managed to reach them.
469
00:50:25,442 --> 00:50:27,444
They adapted to what they found...
470
00:50:34,576 --> 00:50:38,830
..and so evolved into a multitude
of new species.
471
00:50:57,099 --> 00:51:02,104
Each new discovery we make gives
Darwin's theory a greater relevance.
472
00:51:09,361 --> 00:51:12,739
But beyond the strange plants
and bizarre animals,
473
00:51:12,823 --> 00:51:15,117
there is a greater significance.
474
00:51:17,494 --> 00:51:19,621
What we've learned here has given us
475
00:51:19,746 --> 00:51:22,124
a greater understanding
of our planet.
476
00:51:23,625 --> 00:51:27,963
This small group of islands has
revealed in microcosm
477
00:51:28,005 --> 00:51:32,384
the processes that have shaped
all life on Earth.
478
00:51:35,762 --> 00:51:45,772
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