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And these are just some of the landscapes I saw along the Shardana Trail,

a loop route of more than 1,000 km discovering

the most authentic side of Sardinia, far from mass tourism.

I set out on this adventure completely alone,

although in the end, I was never truly alone.

Maybe that was one of the best parts of this event.

But let's start from the beginning. I took the ferry from mainland Italy to Olbia,

where, just a short distance from the port,

I picked up my cork race number, which was really unique.

I also collected the race pack, which included not only gadgets but plenty of useful items as well.

This wristband gives you discounts at participating partner

locations.

And this mini pump from Ciclopromo, one of the sponsors.

And this cream is essential for... your private parts.

Of course, everyone experiences Shardana in their own way.

It's a journey that's meant to tell the story of Sardinia.

Cri and I designed this route with one main goal in mind:

to tell the story of the land you're about to explore.

You'll run into each other many times along the route.

Starting this year, you'll also be able to follow everyone through live tracking.

There aren't any special instructions we need to give you,

other than enjoy the adventure and respect the environment.

Whenever you find a gate that's closed, open it and close it behind you.

If you find a gate already open,

make sure it wasn't simply left open by someone who forgot.

So, as a general rule, always close the gates behind you.

We created Shardana based on

our own way of traveling and our own idea of gravel riding.

We wanted this journey to be fully rideable from start to finish.

We'll never take you onto roads where you'll have to push your loaded bike,

where enjoying the adventure would become impossible.

It has truly been an incredible discovery of our island, even for those of us who live here.

The atmosphere was relaxed, friendly, and laid-back because,

this isn't a race—it's a way to discover the region

at a different pace, without rushing,

and appreciating the little things this land has to offer.

To wrap up the evening, we chilled with beers, pizza slices, and traditional Sardinian sweets

to recharge our batteries for the next day,

because now it's time to ride the Shardana Trail.

I designed and made it myself.

Oh, there's a party here too.

And here we have...

And we're off! Officially starting Shardana. Last, as always—but that's okay.

It's going to be a long ride: 1,100 kilometers.

Good morning, good morning, good morning!

Look at us, still all together.

Soon enough the group will spread out, but for now we're still one big pack.

And now the gravel riding officially begins.

The Sardinian countryside is absolutely beautiful, with these bright green colors

that are almost blinding.

Everything is beautiful, but now it's time to climb, and this will be

the first of many climbs we'll face

along the Shardana route.

You could say we're off to a flying start.

Want to say something?

Well, hello from Australia!

Oh, really?

You're from Australia?

Yes, I'm from Australia.

Did you come here for Shardana?

This is my third major bikepacking event.

This year I wanted something a little more peaceful, not too crowded, you know?

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

So Sardinia seemed like a really interesting place to me.

If you're looking for peace and quiet, just look where we are.

I mean, look around—there's nobody here.

And over another little hill we go.

There it is, a little descent.

A little break here in the shade, with some local specialties.

Thanks, buddy.

How is it, guys?

Wow.

Here we are, climbing toward Oschiri.

Almost 700 meters.

Whew, we started at sea level this morning,

so we've definitely earned it.

Beautiful road. It's 1:30 p.m. now.

Everyone's having lunch. There's nobody around. Amazing!

It's an absolute joy riding like this.

We've definitely earned a gummy crocodile.

Hi there, little crocodile!

Go! Great!

The whole stretch before Oschiri, riding downhill through the trees in silence,

with no cars and Lake Coghinas stretching out in the background,

showed me a side of Sardinia that's far less known

than its beaches and crystal-clear sea,

but no less beautiful.

In fact, it has a beauty all its own, best enjoyed in the peace and quiet

you can breathe in deeply along these roads.

We're leaving Lake Coghinas behind

and heading toward Chiaramonti.

There's gonna be another climb to do.

Super secondary roads, super secret

A huge descent... but now, a huge climb.

And here begins the climb: 34 kilometers long.

The descent has officially begun— and, I'd say, finally.

It's only the first stage, only the first stage.

What was going through my head?

Yes, the first stage was tough, and just a taste of what Shardana has in store.

Still, I have to admit

it was the kind of effort that makes you feel alive.

And in the end,

nothing a beer with friends can't make you forget.

But in the end,

it was dinner together that completely washed away the day's fatigue.

It was prepared with genuine care,

with flavors

I'll never forget. And we owe all this incredible food to Doloretta,

the owner of this temple of great food, who woke me up like this the next morning.

This beaten egg mixed with milk is really something...

It's pure comfort. The perfect way to start the day.

You're amazing, Doloretta.

About 25 years ago I started working with schools through our educational farm.

Schools called me

from all over the Sassari area, and I've kept doing it ever since.

The educational farm

has given me the greatest satisfaction, and I love working with children the most.

I've also worked milking the animals and making cheese.

I could never work in an office.

They're going to leave you a great review.

Come on, take a picture with the girls.

Even though I'm standing in the middle, I'm the shortest one.

Where are you heading today?

Toward Alghero.

Did you hear that, Doloretta?

Toward Alghero. Then...? How many days? I don't know.

I'll just set off and see what happens.

Very brave, I'd say.

Come on, you'll have plenty of company.

Now it's time to get back

on the bike and continue along the Shardana Trail,

which starts climbing again.

That was just a goodbye pee, by the way.

Chiaramonti is absolutely beautiful,

with Castello d'Oria

overlooking the entire town from above.

Now we're gradually

making our way

toward Sassari. There are a few rolling hills ahead.

Can we agree

it looks like Ireland?

It really does.

This time of year,

everything is green.

The climbs

are gentle.

Exactly.

They are not crazy

Right pace, and you are good to go!

Such an amazing weather!

I have to admit it

I never expected to find landscapes this green and full of life here.

And from a scenic point of view,

this was one of my favorite sections of the entire Shardana Trail.

Riding here, surrounded

by green fields, blue skies, on a strip of asphalt in silence...

It was truly an amazing feeling.

And yes, this is Sardinia too.

Ahhh, okay! This is the mood!

Is it coffee or an aperitif time?

Coffee and an aperitif!

Nice, guys.

See you in Sassari.

Bye.

Okay. Bye!

More greenery, more countryside, more

quiet back roads, and that's how I reached Sassari.

The most important city in the area, where, upon arriving in Piazza Italia,

I met many other bike travelers, also riding the Shardana Trail.

How's it going?

The vibe is still all about relaxing, so I stopped for

a cold beer with Councillor Massimo Rizzo, who explained to me why

Sassari—or rather, "Tattari," as it's called

around here—is in many ways a unique and special place in Sardinia.

The city's name is Sassari,

while "Tattari" is its name in the Sardinian language.

Many people still

call it that, especially those from outside Sassari.

The Sassarese dialect has a different linguistic structure

from Sardinian, which itself has different regional varieties,

namely Logudorese and Campidanese Sardinian,

each of which evolved differently from Latin to Sardinian.

Sassarese, on the other hand, is spoken only in the city of Sassari

and in just a few nearby towns in the Sassari area.

And besides what the councillor told me,

walking through the historic center, I discovered a city full of peaceful streets

and quiet alleyways, far from the crowds,

where history is everywhere and life flows at its own pace.

I also came across some real gems,

such as the Cathedral

of St. Nicholas, one of the most fascinating buildings in all of Sardinia,

thanks to its incredible blend of architectural styles accumulated

over nearly a thousand years of history.

I also found a few hidden treasures inside the Ducal Palace,

which houses the city hall,

and where I took a quick look before heading back toward the sea,

toward Porto Torres, my destination for the second day.

Oh yes...

there's the sea too.

That's Sassari over there btw.

The sun is shining here in Sardinia today. I'm in Porto Torres,

and I'm about to set off because today's stage is going to be long.

Riding to Alghero is a special experience,

but it's only when you enter its historic center

that you truly feel you've arrived somewhere unique.

Walking through its cobblestone streets, elegant squares, and narrow alleys,

you can still feel its deep connection to Spain.

That's no coincidence. For centuries, Alghero

was under Catalan rule, and that legacy is still visible in its architecture, culture, and even its language.

with the Algherese dialect still retaining very strong Catalan influences.

One of the city's most fascinating features is undoubtedly its impressive

ramparts, built to defend Alghero from attacks coming from

the sea, which today offer spectacular views of the Mediterranean

and have become one of the city's most iconic landmarks.

It's precisely this mix of history, the sea, and a cultural identity unlike

anywhere else in Sardinia that makes Alghero one of the most

fascinating places to discover by bike along the Shardana Trail.

I've put on some sunscreen, even though there isn't much sun right now. In fact,

the sky is starting to cloud over, and now I'm heading that way toward Bosa,

where I'll be spending the night. It's 45 km from here, and to get there

I'll be riding the Alghero–Bosa road, which many people say is one of the most

beautiful and scenic roads in all of Sardinia.

So my expectations are high, even if my legs are tired.

Okay, the drone shot is very nice, but now we're going up.

What a road, guys... what a road!

It climbs!

Up and down, but...

This is incredible. Wow!

Looks like everything they said about this road was true!

Absolutely stunning!

Those 45 kilometers between Alghero and Bosa were unbelievable—truly one of the most

beautiful roads I've ever ridden in my entire life.

And despite the effort, I'll always carry it with me.

I'm definitely tired, so now it's time to refuel with the other riders,

who are also here on the Shardana Trail, and get ready for tomorrow's stage,

with plenty of delicious local food to recharge both body and mind.

Let's begin day four,

the fourth stage of the Shardana Trail, heading back downhill toward Bosa.

I arrived late yesterday,

so I didn't really get the chance to see much of it,

but it looks absolutely beautiful. Actually, you know what?

Since Malaspina Castle is right there, let's take a look with the drone.

Well, I don't think I need to tell you how beautiful the town of Bosa is.

With its castle, built in the 12th century by the powerful Tuscan

Malaspina family, who controlled large parts of the island at the time,

together with its colorful old town, it's truly a little gem.

That morning I wandered around at a relaxed pace,

enjoying the peace and quiet that you can experience here

in early May, with no tourists, no crowds, and hardly anyone around.

Bosa really is a little gem.

I could have stayed much longer.

The town is just waking up.

Actually, so am I,

because it's 9:30 a.m. and now I'm riding toward Bosa Marina.

I'll follow the coast for a while,

then the climbing begins.

There will only be one major climb today,

but don't underestimate it even if it's just one.

It's steep... really steep.

So, let's go!

So... that's the climb I've got to tackle now.

And that's only the first part.

Okay, all right.

All right, all right.

Good morning, girls.

Hi!

You look great.

Huge rocks, huge rocks.

But then, guys, look at this.

All of a sudden... the Netherlands.

Okay.

Unbelievable.

I have to admit, after riding through all that countryside,

with fields and livestock everywhere, seeing a bike path this well built

and this perfectly maintained felt like a dream.

The kind of dream where you know you're dreaming,

so you enjoy every second of it.

And if you're wondering, this bike path wasn't just well built,

it also went on for quite a while. It's almost twenty kilometers long

and gradually led me toward the Sinis Peninsula.

An ice-cold Coke.

You can't beat it with a slice of lemon.

Whew, I've made it to the coast.

Exhausted.

Little by little...

we'll get there.

Someone here

wants some cuddles.

No, I'd stay here.

Cuddling you all day.

But now let's send up the drone and I'll show you what this place looks like.

Not bad, huh?

And just think, this stretch of coastline was only the appetizer

for what came next,

along this route, sometimes on gravel, sometimes on singletrack,

just a couple of meters from the cliffs of the Sinis Peninsula.

What a place!

Seriously...

I won't say anything else,

because I think the footage speaks for itself and shows the breathtaking beauty of this place.

After those drone shots, I don't think there's much more to add.

This place is simply indescribable.

I'm speechless, so let's end the day right here.

Because there's nothing else to say.

Nothing at all.

The next day started early, with an uncertain weather forecast.

So I quickly rode past Oristano and on to Terralba,

where I stopped for the first time in the town's main square.

There, completely by chance, I met Ignazio at a café,

who also became a movie actor almost by accident.

He wasn't originally an actor.

He's a shepherd from the Terralba area who was chosen by director Riccardo

Milani to appear in the movie La Vita va Così.

He played the role of Ovidio Marras,

a shepherd who stopped the construction of a luxury resort on the beach at

Capo Malfatano by refusing to sell his land and suing the developer.

The story is true,

and so is Ignazio, who really is an incredible character.

I'm 85 years old.

Have you always lived here?

Yes.

In town and around the area.

I'm happier and feel safer here.

This is my hometown, where I was born and raised.

So I'm not leaving for anywhere else.

I like it here.

As long as you live?

Yes, yes, absolutely.

I spent three years in first grade.

Because I never went to school.

I didn't like being stuck inside four walls.

The few times I did go, I couldn't wait for school to end.

So I could go out into the countryside.

Out into the countryside, yes.

And smoke with my friends.

As a kid

How old were you?

About seven or eight.

We used to look for cigarette butts in the streets because we had no money.

Impressive. He remembered the whole thing.

What can I say? Ignazio is truly a remarkable character.

Even if he had never been an actor, he feels like someone straight out of a movie script.

All right, time to get back on the bike and head toward Marceddì,

a small village on the coast where you'll find a very old watchtower,

which, thanks to its strategic location,

has served many different purposes throughout the centuries.

This entire area is still full of Nuragic history.

Right now it's high tide, because there's a submerged nuraghe here.

Ten thousand years ago, this was all dry land.

As sea levels rose, the whole area gradually became sea.

They've even found caves ten meters underwater

with obsidian-working sites and other archaeological remains.

Today this has become

a refuge for migratory birds. Many of them stop here.

It's the largest wetland in Sardinia and the second largest in Europe after the Camargue.

So you could say it's served many different purposes throughout history.

Exactly.

First customs and trade, then a lookout tower, and later a military outpost.

That's why so many birdwatchers come here.

The last people to modify it,

apart from the restoration work, were the Germans.

They built a bunker,

using the existing tower to help conceal it.

Right. You can see the other bunkers too.

This tower is fascinating, both for its location and for its history.

After passing through the fishing village of Marceddì,

I headed toward another tower,

perhaps an even more famous one: Torre dei Corsari.

Its name reminds us why these towers were built during Spanish rule:

to defend Sardinia from Barbary pirate raids

and to monitor the shipping routes along this part of the Mediterranean.

The towers were positioned so that each one could see the next,

creating an effective communication and defense network.

They're a true symbol of this coast,

and definitely worth visiting if you ride along western Sardinia.

Now I understand why they built all these towers.

Climbing all the way up here every time to send messages would've been exhausting.

Punta Razza, Pecora Nera.

There's an artisan cheese dairy.

Yes, a small artisan dairy.

They use the milk from black sheep,

which graze on the Mediterranean scrub growing here.

So, from what I understand, the milk contains an extra enzyme,

which gives it a distinctive flavor.

Stopping for lunch in such a quiet, authentic place

was exactly what I needed,

because there's no shortage of climbing and mileage on the Shardana Trail,

and I'm almost at the halfway point.

Not quite halfway yet, because there was still a long way to ride,

even though I was starting to feel the fatigue.

So I decided to take a shortcut

and skip a beautiful area I'd already visited before.

I'm talking about the heart of the Costa Verde.

In the municipality of Arbus,

you'll find one of the most remarkable landscapes in Europe:

the Piscinas Dunes, which at first glance look like

a piece of the Sahara transported to Sardinia.

Some of these mountains of sand rise to almost 100 meters,

making them some of the tallest dunes on the European continent.

But what makes this place truly special is its history.

The sand we now see accumulating along the coast

is the result of thousands of years of wind and waterways carrying material

from the mountains inland all the way to the coast.

It was a slow, continuous process that created a unique environment

where nature still reigns supreme, in a wild and protected landscape.

It's home to Sardinian deer, foxes, sea turtles, and many species of birds.

Later that afternoon, I arrived in Guspini, where I went to visit Iride

Peis, whom I'd met the year before while hiking the Santa Barbara

Mining Trail, and who, by a twist of fate,

happened to be reading a book about the Shardana.

So, this route we're doing...

it's called Shardana, but I don't know what that means.

What does it mean?

Really?

You know, the Shardana people...

They were a Sardinian people who helped the Egyptian pharaoh in his wars.

So, the Shardana...

An ancient people.

An ancient Sardinian people.

I didn't know that.

Would you look at that... Shardana.

What a coincidence.

And look at this—I'm here talking to you about the Shardana,

and you just happened to take this book out this morning.

Exactly.

Fate. Destiny.

It's incredible.

Beautiful, beautiful.

Yes.

So, by a twist of fate, I met Iride again,

and fate also had it that she lived not far

from one of the places that has enchanted me most in Sardinia.

On the entire island, in fact: these towering basalt columns

rising along a vertical wall, with prickly pear cacti growing out of it.

I don't know...

It looks like something out of a movie set on

a distant planet, an alien planet.

I've already seen basalt formations like these in other parts of the world,

in Ireland and Iceland.

And they're incredible to see there too.

But I don't know...

the fact that these prickly pear cacti are climbing up

this vertical wall somehow makes this place feel more... almost mine,

more... more Italian.

It makes me proud to see it.

It's truly a monument.

It's incredible.

It's enormous.

And it's free to visit because it's in the garden of a man who grows loquats here.

There are olive trees over there.

There are other fruit trees too.

But anyone can come in here and enjoy this beauty.

I can't explain why, but this place fascinates me.

This is the third time I've come here, yet I always feel the need to stop.

I think anyone could be mesmerized here by the energy

and power of Mother Nature, so clearly displayed before our eyes.

Wow!

A true hidden gem, which is actually located in a private garden.

So please, if you visit, show the utmost respect.

And now I'm leaving the town of Guspini

behind and setting off toward Villacidro,

today's destination, where I stop—woo-hoo!—and meet

many other Shardana participants, because Massimo and Cristina,

the event organizers, planned a special evening for everyone.

Are we dancing tonight?

We're dancing, we're dancing on the tables!

Oh my God!

Is this like a wedding feast?

Wow, it's huge! It's so heavy!

It weighs 150 grams.

Oh my God!

So, are we eating the Shardana?

The atmosphere was truly unique, and together with the dinner

of delicious local food and drinks, it was a real boost

for my spirits and gave me the energy to start riding again

the following day. I didn't know it yet,

but this would be one of those tough, unforgettable stages.

Yes, then there's the descent, with all the downhill sections.

Next destination?

Sant'Antioco. See you there.

Bye!

Yes, this little climb is pretty tough now.

Slowly but surely, as Grandma says, dress in layers.

This is Sardinian gravel.

Also known as a paved road— or rather, a formerly paved road.

You basically have to fly over the rocks.

As light as a feather.

One last steep push like this.

It's good for you.

It's good for you.

Yes, a little gummy crocodile!

The red one makes you go faster.

Okay, great! That's exactly what I need!

Woo-hoo!

Thank you.

You're welcome!

Leave it open. We'll close it.

Sure.

Did you find that on the ground?

Yes.

You can enjoy it later.

Look, a Snickers and a banana peel.

Oh, come on.

Come on.

Good girl.

Go, go, go!

As soon as we arrived in Domusnovas, we went to see the San Giovanni Caves,

natural caves that are unique, not only because of their beauty,

but because for decades a real road ran right through them,

connecting two valleys— the only case of its kind in the world.

This imposing tunnel, carved out by nature, extends for about 850 meters

through the mountain and was formed over

millions of years by water eroding the limestone.

Walking through it, you can see walls shaped by time,

plays of light, and spaces that tell an ancient geological story.

The cave takes its name from a small church dedicated to St. Giovanni,

built near the entrance and visited since the Middle Ages.

I'd already been here before, and the San Giovanni Caves truly are

a fascinating place where nature, history, and geology come together.

This natural tunnel, which you can even ride through,

gives visitors the feeling

of passing through a monument sculpted directly by Mother Earth.

And riding through it is a truly unique experience.

One of a kind.

After lunch with some of the other Shardana participants,

and especially with this very cuddly kitten, it started raining heavily.

So, since I was tired, I accepted a ride to the top of a climb,

so I could focus only on the descent toward Sant'Antioco.

Go faster! Go, go, go, go, go!

Do you want a ride?

No, no.

This is to go fast downhill take it, take it, take it.

The downhill was long, steep, and pretty intense,

with the smell of wet grass accompanying us the whole way.

We eventually reached the flatlands and passed through the old village of Tratalias,

one of the most atmospheric and least-known places in Sulcis.

A small village that tells the story

of a rural, authentic Sardinia that probably no longer exists.

At the heart of the village is the beautiful Cathedral of Santa Maria di Monserrato,

one of the island's most important examples of Romanesque architecture.

Around the square near the church are old houses that have been faithfully

reconstructed to show what everyday life was once like.

It was our final stop before heading straight

toward Sant'Antioco, our final destination for the day,

which we reached along a beautiful bike path built on an old railway line.

And here I am by the sea again, on the exact opposite side of the island

from Olbia, where we started riding six days ago.

And yes, I'll be honest, I'm starting to feel the fatigue.

But we're now past the halfway point.

So, dinner with the guys I shared today's effort and views with,

before getting back on the bikes together the next day.

Got everything? Bye, guys. Have a good ride.

That morning, the route began at the salt flats just outside town,

a place populated by flocks of flamingos standing

peacefully in the water, taking in the view.

We're entering the final stretch of Shardana,

and now we're heading back toward Olbia, our starting point.

Today we say goodbye to the sea and head straight into Sardinia's interior.

Perfect! Good as new!

now, huh.

A little break at a bar. They didn't have lemon Ichnusa, but... chemistry.

Nice and cold.

And this is number twelve since the start of Shardana.

Now, 25 or 30 easy kilometers uphill on gravel.

Then another 25 or 30 downhill.

That's the philosophy of cycling, right?

First the climb, then the descent.

Sorry, do you use that to rest your hand because it's soft?

How does it work?

It's a drying rack.

I've never seen one like that.

Oh, okay.

For drying clothes.

Exactly!

Now there's only this, but earlier there was a shirt and a rain jacket.

Okay.

We got gravel bikes specifically for this kind of terrain.

And it climbs like this.

Triangle. Nice. Yellow.

Come on, yes, it's yellow. It's yellow.

We can do it.

Do not light fires.

Your lungs can be on fire, or your biceps.

Calves on fire. Calves on fire.

Here we are at the top.

Okay, now it's officially paved again.

And we're heading toward Decimomannu.

Cagliari is over here.

Decimomannu is just a little farther north.

There's still a long way to go, and that little noise...

I don't really like it.

Since I'd been hearing that little noise for a while,

I decided to stop by Technobike Cagliari and let Giorgio's expert hands

give my bike a checkup, so we could get rid of that annoying sound

that had been bothering me while I rode.

The axle had run out of oil or grease, so it was creaking.

The flexing was producing a squeaking sound.

I was putting out too many watts.

You were putting out too many watts.

A little oil on the chain.

The problem is the river crossings. The water washes away the oil and grease.

After getting the bike fixed, I reached Decimomannu

with the other riders, with perfect timing, in fact:

the town was holding a festival with live music and plenty of delicious local food.

This grandmother made everything.

She even made the little V's for the vegetables and the V's for... you know?

I asked, “Was there a lady, a grandmother, who made these?”

Yes?

Well done.

This is Shardana too.

The music of the Canas and the dancing by the people of Decimomannu

were the perfect way to end this stage

and get ready to start riding again the next day,

but first, a little time to relax in the hot tub.

Because yes, cycling is great, but the fatigue is starting to set in.

So every now and then, it's good to give your body a little care.

Sorry, but aren't you riding today?

No, um... maybe he is... We're getting ready to ride.

It's typical of Sanluri.

It's not actually typical of Sanluri, though.

Look, this one is typical of Sanluri.

You eat it in one bite.

What's it called?

I can eat it for you, if you want.

Go ahead.

Go ahead.

These are gueffus.

Bocconetti are eaten in one bite and are made with sweet almonds and sugar.

They're delicious. Want to try one?

Go ahead.

Do you make them?

Half for you and half for me?

Yes, come on.

Do you make them?

Okay.

And are these made with almonds?

Sweet almonds. This is typical of Sanluri, but it's known throughout Sardinia.

It's Sardinian gold. These are the most expensive sweets we have.

Coated and covered in sugar, with shortcrust pastry inside. They're jewels.

And are they all different?

They're all different.

They're a bit like coral.

Yes, they're our gold.

The people at Cirronis were so kind.

They even gave me some traditional sweets.

It's so nice when people welcome you with a smile like that.

It makes the fatigue feel lighter.

But now we're leaving Sanluri and continuing north.

After the sweets, we also stopped for a break in the shade

at a local winery, where wine has been made for generations.

Although, as always in Sardinia, you have to work to get there.

Freshly pressed grapes.

This is our homemade semolina bread, with head cheese.

It's made with parts like the pig's tendons and bones.

Then everything is combined inside this cold cut.

So it's a type of sausage.

Exactly.

Using some of the less prized cuts too.

Exactly.

But it's very good and especially flavorful.

And now we're going to try it.

It melts in your mouth.

Incredible.

Here we are. We made it.

Looks like there are some other bike travelers here too.

Just at a glance.

The pool looks very inviting.

The weather, not so much.

Since tomorrow is going to be a very long day,

and dinner is still more than four hours away,

I put two and two together and decided to do today...

Actually, right now, the Giara di Gesturi.

The Giara is that plateau

you can see in front of me.

Four hundred meters of climbing, all packed into just a few kilometers.

But that's okay.

Slowly but surely, we'll manage this one too.

I've unloaded the bike.

I feel incredibly light.

Ah, okay.

Very good.

Very good.

The Giara immediately makes it clear that this is going to be hard work.

Yes, it was a tough climb.

I won't deny it.

But I'm glad I made it all the way to the top of the Giara.

This incredibly green place also has something truly special.

Because here, on this small Sardinian plateau,

you'll find the last wild horses in Europe.

These very ones. They weren't easy to spot,

because they often stay far away from the gravel roads

that cross the Giara, but they're fascinating to see.

Knowing that they're one of the oldest horse breeds in Europe,

and perhaps in the world, and seeing them roam freely here,

in small herds surrounded by greenery, is truly moving—another gift from this route.

Now it's time to head back to the farmhouse before sunset,

because here at Su Massaiu, the Shardana organizers told me

to get ready for a powerful experience and flavors I would remember

for the rest of my life. And sure enough, the smell of roast suckling pig

that welcomed me when I returned immediately made me realize

that this would be another evening to remember.

Strictly grilled over an open fire.

You're going to make me emotional, and then I won't be able to cut.

The secret, first of all, is to cook it over the coals,

and then the secret is having the patience to leave it...

This one is small, too.

It may have taken two hours and forty-five minutes, but it really needs the full three hours.

Can you hear how it sounds?

It sounds good.

Even when cutting it like this, very carefully, the more it is,

let's say, not too large, the more elegant the pieces look.

Here you go. Try it...

You can already feel it here.

I'm not saying anything.

It crunches.

And what a crunch.

The crunch followed by...

It's incredible.

What a special dinner, and how wonderful it is to be here

in such an incredible and surprising land.

And I don't use those words lightly, because the following day my stage

began by passing Nuraxi in Barumini, an ancient defensive fortification

made up of a network of circular towers, among the best preserved on the island.

And to think that this ancient place, thousands of years old, has remained

so well preserved over time. But okay, let's pause the poetic moment,

because I need to start riding again, and I also took the opportunity

to pick up a bag another participant had left at a hostel.

Because this sense of solidarity among bike travelers is also part of Shardana's beauty.

Did they forget it?

Yes, yes.

Did they lose it?

I'll take care of it now.

Thank you so much.

Thank you so much.

Bye, thanks. Bye, bye.

Bye!

Got it.

Now let's get back to riding.

And here we are in Laconi, the town of truffles.

Okay.

Look at you, look at you. You're so lucky.

No, because the bag isn't mine.

Let's refill with some fresh water.

There's a festive atmosphere here.

That's the Giara, where I was yesterday.

Now a little downhill stretch.

And then it climbs again. It's not all downhill!

This stage definitely had the most climbing of all.

But little by little, I managed to get through it.

Because it was never harsh or steep,

just constant, and especially in early May,

I experienced it in perfect temperatures.

And despite the effort, I wouldn't change a thing about those moments.

Because part of the beauty of traveling by bike is the satisfaction of reaching

the top, getting up high, and seeing everything you've overcome.

It's a feeling that's hard to explain, but it's beautiful.

A bit like this whole view

surrounding me here on the road toward Olbia.

I think this is the right place.

Yes, there's even the little Shardana logo.

Carones de busa, a type of pasta typical of this area.

There's also local guanciale.

Doing over 6,000 meters of elevation gain with this

will probably be a piece of cake.

Caschettas.

The dessert is made with pastry made from flour.

It's granito.

Granito is the finest part of the flour.

They make little strands, then shape them,

and dry them briefly in the oven.

It isn't really baking, but drying them so they keep their shape.

They're really delicious.

I enjoyed them one after another.

The filling pairs really well with the pastry.

Perfect. If you pass through Belvì, you absolutely have to try these.

We're glad you liked them.

Tonara is pretty high up.

Okay, over the hill.

But right after that, there's a very steep climb.

I have to say, it's very, very steep.

It reaches almost 1,000 meters.

Then it descends toward Mamoiada.

Drone flight done.

Now here we are on the bridge over the lake.

A little banana, because there's a serious climb ahead.

A serious one.

But it's the last one.

So let's get some potassium.

Let's do this.

There are 300 to 350 meters of elevation gain toward Fonni.

And it's all like this.

It never lets up.

It never lets up.

Little switchbacks.

And I hadn't actually realized it,

but here in Fonni we're at

almost 1,000 meters.

We're very high up.

Excuse me, is Fonni at 1,000 meters?

A thousand?

Yes.

Exactly?

Yes. Exactly, exactly.

It's the highest town in Sardinia.

It's the highest town in Sardinia?

People come here to ski.

You can ski here?

Yes.

Though I guess this isn't the season.

No, no. Not even in winter.

Bye.

Okay.

I didn't know that. Those guys were very precise.

So, let's go.

The highest town in Sardinia: conquered.

Now that I've reached the ninth stage of Shardana,

I think I've figured out there's an unwritten rule at the end of each stage:

it's impossible to finish the day here without a beer in your hand.

But actually, the route isn't over. Almost.

I deliberately saved the final stage

to turn it into a bit of a personal challenge.

Today is the final day. Breakfast.

We're setting off now. The weather is a little uncertain.

So that day, I got up early and... I'll be honest, I didn't film very much.

Even though, of course, I still found plenty to discover.

Like a necropolis in the countryside north of Nuoro.

Because if you thought the nuraghi were the oldest things in Sardinia,

well, here you'll always find something even older.

And then, more beautiful murals,

here in the historic center of Alà dei Sardi.

From there, the weather finally started to improve,

and the sun came out and accompanied me all the way to Olbia,

which I reached by riding along quiet and scenic back roads.

The day didn't start very well, but look what it's turning into!

I'd just like to point out that it's 11 degrees.

And yes, it's a bit chilly.

I'll be honest, I'm enjoying the moment.

I'm mentally going back over all these days.

This is my tenth day in Sardinia.

This is a land of climbs.

So keep that in mind when you come here.

But... it's an absolutely incredible place.

For this final stage, long as it was, I don't have much to tell you.

Probably because my brain had switched into "make it at all costs" mode.

And so I completed Shardana in ten stages, which for me meant

physical effort, but also the pride of discovering

a large part of this region, which I barely knew, under my own power.

That's what I'm taking home

from this route, from this event that... is more than an event.

They were ten beautiful days that I'll remember forever.

And it's all thanks to them, to Massimiliano and Cristina,

who gave us a route that is more than just a line on a map.

Because on this journey, I discovered a rich land

whose beauty has to be earned, but if you're willing to make the effort,

it will give you something you'll remember for the rest of your life.

So thank you, Sardinia. Thank you, Shardana. See you next year

with a route that will certainly be different, but I'm sure it will amaze me.

And that's it. Until next time, and a sibiri.