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[instrumental music playing]
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[speaking in Basque]
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[instrumental music playing]
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[man speaking in Basque]
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[man speaking indistinctively]
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[music continues]
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Pasaia, this port was one of
the main gates to the new world
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in the 16th century.
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From this place, most of the whaling expedition went to the new world.
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Basque whaling in Canada is considered to be
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the oldest industrial activityin North America.
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But you see, it's not part ofthe official maritime history
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because it's a maritime historyabout fisherman.
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So they used to keep secretly.
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So the Basque were the only ones hunting whales for many, many centuries.
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Until the beginning of the 17th century,
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which many other nationsstarted to hunt whales as well.
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But always hiring Basque harpooneers and sailors.
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This is one of the most
important activities
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that Basque fishermen
have for many centuries.
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When I was much younger, I wanted to become a boatbuilder.
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I wanted to build wooden boats.
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I was thinking about going to the United States,
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to Maine, to the Maine Maritime museum,
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to the apprentice shop, to build boats.
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But, well, I wasn't quite sure yet.
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But then I was surfing in Australia, in Manly,
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and somebody I met
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knowing that I was Basque,
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came to me with this
National Geographic issue
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about 16th century Basque
whaling in America.
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And it is an issue about
the San Juan world ship.
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So, it is the first time I heard about the San Juan,
34
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it's while I was surfing in Australia.
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I decided to focus on learninghow to build wooden boats,
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and, well, I decided to buildthe San Juan one day.
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And many, many years after that, here we are.
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I'm building not by myself but with
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a bunch of people.
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One of the...
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success of Basque's ship building,
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is the fact that the main materials to build ships,
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the iron mines, also the forest,
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were located very close to the shipyards.
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So that made transportation very affordable.
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They use to manage the forest
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to provide the right shapes they needed,
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like, you know, they used
to guide the branches.
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[drilling]
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[hammer noises]
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[drilling continues]
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Let me show you.
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These are Oliden made oars.
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They were the last wooden oar
makers in the Basque country.
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They don't make them anymore.
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But, we still use them,and they're very, very, nice.
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[guitar music playing]
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[music continues]
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[foreign song playing]
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[song continues]
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[song continues]
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[both speaking in Basque]
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[chattering]
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[keyboard music playing]
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[speaking in Basque]
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[speaking in Basque]
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[Patxi speaking Basque]
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[Mikel speaking in Basque]
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[Patxi speaking]
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[Patxi speaking]
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[woman speaking]
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[Mikel speaking]
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[Patxi speaking]
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[Patxi laughing]
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[Patxi speaking]
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[instrumental music playing]
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[music continues]
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[music continues]
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[Kepa] Well, this is where everything started.
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They built this skateparkhere in the town and it wasfull of people skating and...
81
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I was seven years old and we found the...
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the surfing first.
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Some guys lent us a surf board and
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my brothers and me, we started surfing.
85
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I remember we could skate here and already read these lines as a surfer.
86
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Coming from here, and...
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I could still leap already.
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Oh!
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Phew!
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And then...
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good barrel.
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And there was a friend
out here doing like this.
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And it's amazing how the skaters style they have here,
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it's a little bit like surfing, you know.
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Because of the lines andthe influence of the sea too.
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So everybody in the village
was coming here,
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and everybody was skating.
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There was very, very few boards.
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I remember we found one board in the trash.
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It was completely destroyed.
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And we fixed it with tape, you know.
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[Kepa]
The first wetsuit we bought,
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we went to Biarritz 'cause
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there was the surf culture there.
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There was no wetsuits here, so...
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My dad and mum got some money and we drive all the way to the Haritz.
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Back then it was an adventureto go to the Haritz.
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And then we bought these first wetsuits,
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and when they were broken, we had to fix it,
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and there was no material here.
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The main industry in Bilbao was building ships.
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And there was iron in the mountains.
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So they took the iron from the mountains straight,
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And build the ships for Europe.
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All around the world.
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And iron for--
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I think like 100 years there were a lot of people coming from everywhere.
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There was a lot of hope here,but then the iron was finished.
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So that was a local crisis.
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It was like a big movement.
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Like, a big revolution.
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It was hard times, but also there was a time for a lot of music.
123
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But, not as a government,
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but more as street activists, you know.
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[singing in Basque]
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[Kepa] Yeah, it's, phew...
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it's a big change so...
128
00:14:29,168 --> 00:14:31,869
If you see footage from Bilbaofrom the early eighties,
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you would see that it was a black hole with pollution
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00:14:35,975 --> 00:14:38,743
and it was a working place, a hard working place.
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There was a lot of industry, and...
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Now it's, you know, Bilbao'slike a... Looks like New York.
[laughs]
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Yeah, they made a project to change the...
134
00:14:48,354 --> 00:14:50,855
Bilbao from industry
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00:14:50,890 --> 00:14:52,023
to tourists now.
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And that's one thing cool of him.
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It came as a symbol of the new Bilbao.
138
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It's a beautiful art piece, you know, as itself.
139
00:15:01,834 --> 00:15:04,535
Basque people, especially in the coastline, knew that
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it's been very hard to work the land.
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00:15:06,238 --> 00:15:08,739
So, most people are focused working in the sea
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with the fishermen now.
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Very strong connection with the ocean, you know.
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That's a way of surviving, you know.
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So, I think it influenced a lotin the Basque character.
146
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We always been traveling around the world, you know,
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the Basque people.
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[guitar music playing]
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[Kepa] We are more connected to the world by the sea,
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than to Europe by the land, you know.
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That's why we trust
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this cold terrain personality,you know.
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[music continues]
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00:15:37,570 --> 00:15:39,637
[Kepa] I think times are changing very fast.
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I'm traveling the world and I'm looking
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00:15:42,308 --> 00:15:43,941
some of the places that...
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When I was there, like,
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six years ago by myself,
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there were people that were connected to occidental culture, you know.
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And now sometimes I get by Facebook,
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six years after I get connectedwith them, you know.
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So, I think all the world is changing now,
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and for the good by one side,
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and for the bad by other, you know.
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'Cause that's never going to come back, you know.
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So, for me, it's traveling the world and knowing other cultures is
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a way to go back home andreally appreciate what we have
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in the value of a primitive language,
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and culture that we have now.
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[guitar music playing]
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[Kepa] I was competing for so long which I really liked it at that time.
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You're very focused on one beach,
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and from the beach to the hotel,
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and from the hotel to a beach.
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And you're very focused on 20 minutes of the heat, you know.
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Sometimes I realize that I wanted to do another thing, you know.
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I think the surfing industryalso lost a lot of beautyof those old times, you know.
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So I was trying to recover that spirit and just take a surf bag and surf boards,
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and know the world. As simple as that, you know.
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So, yeah, that was the way.
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I bought a small camera and I left.
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I wasn't trying to do somethingvery sophisticated,
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or I didn't have the techniqueto do good clips, you know.
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The way to express myself was just say, hey, I'm here, I'm looking for waves.
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It's more about the feeling of being alone.
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Probably, if you are with someone,
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then things are not that intense, you know.
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But when you're by yourself, and you're in a place like that,
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everything becomes really dangerous for you...
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You're very focused in what's going on in that place.
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And every little thing in the normal life disappears to focus on...
192
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on the very important thing which is get to the wave, and survive, you know.
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[laughing]
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[guitar music playing]
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[Kepa] You know, the Basque people. It's been traveling alot,
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but also united together.
197
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Culture, you know. Traveling the world has been a...
198
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It's a great experience to know other cultures and other places.
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But also it's a way to come back and see
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the Basque culture and people,
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and tradition as from an objective position, you know.
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So, you realize there are little things
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that we have here, so,
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learn to appreciate our culture
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and being proud of what we are, you know.
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So it's always great to come back
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and be with your friends and family,
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and this is where I belong, you know.
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[guitar music playing]
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I really like to surf herein the urban where we grew up.
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It's a urban universe,
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but it's a beauty universe, you know.
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[guitar music playing]
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And then you have the Mundaka,
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and it has this wild nature, protected nature that
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everything around Mundaka is beautiful, you know.
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It's a great wave, but,
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also when you are there, everything around you is...
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It's very unique, you know.
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Everytime I think about it-- I don't believe in God, but,
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if there is a reason to believe in God, it's about Mundaka is there, you know.
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For me Mundaka is a motivationof living here, you know,
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because anytime you can get the wave of your life there, you know.
224
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And you're with family and friends in the water.
225
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So its a very special place, you know,
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with the village there.
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For us it's like a temple, you know.
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[instrumental music playing]
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[music continues]
230
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[music continues]
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[Kepa] For me Tom Curren was the most influential surfer.
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And I think for a lot of people too, you know.
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Tom Curren for me is the definition of surf.
234
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He lived in the Basque country
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but I remember watching him surf in Mundaka,
236
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and I remember his words,
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he was saying that Mundaka was the best wave in the world, you know.
238
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A lot of entrepreneurs in
the Basque country historically,
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from Elcano to these times,
you know--
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Elcano, who made
the world around tour
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to these times, you know,
and I think it's not
a casuality, you know.
242
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There's a lot
of adventurer's, and...
243
00:20:56,922 --> 00:21:00,391
this is also adventure
from the Basque people
to the world, you know.
244
00:21:00,426 --> 00:21:02,293
[Kepa speaking in Basque]
245
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I would talk about, Natxo.A Basque, strong personality,
246
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optimistic dreamer, you know.
247
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This kid has got something special in him.
248
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A great surfer, and a great person too.
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[drums beating]
250
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[drums beating]
251
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[drums beating]
252
00:22:03,956 --> 00:22:05,723
[birds chirping]
253
00:22:05,758 --> 00:22:08,693
[ship horn blaring]
254
00:22:13,665 --> 00:22:14,965
[phone beeps]
255
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[phone beeps]
256
00:22:19,371 --> 00:22:21,972
[speaking in Basque]
257
00:22:30,249 --> 00:22:31,816
[engine revving]
258
00:22:33,786 --> 00:22:36,020
[contemporary instrumental
music playing]
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[music continues]
260
00:23:12,157 --> 00:23:13,657
[music continues]
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I'm Thomas Meyerhoffer.
262
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And I'm from Sweden.
263
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Been surfing since 1982.
264
00:23:36,048 --> 00:23:39,016
I windsurfed, but for us windsurfing in the waves
265
00:23:39,051 --> 00:23:41,785
were as close as you could cometo surfing at that point.
266
00:23:41,820 --> 00:23:45,322
Today, there's people surfingeverywhere in Sweden.
267
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Where we used to wind surf,
same spots, same waves.
268
00:23:49,061 --> 00:23:52,763
All through my high school, I used to build windsurfing boards,
269
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and windsurf a lot.
270
00:23:53,999 --> 00:23:56,033
And then when I decided what I wanted to do,
271
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I had to go to design school and study car design and design,
272
00:23:59,605 --> 00:24:01,305
and there was no schools in Sweden.
273
00:24:01,340 --> 00:24:06,343
So I applied, and had to use my surf boards to get into the school.
274
00:24:09,348 --> 00:24:12,850
I got to go in the late '80s, surf the real waves.
275
00:24:12,885 --> 00:24:16,720
And after my studies at the Arts Center,
276
00:24:16,755 --> 00:24:20,457
I wanted to see if I could get a job at Porsche, in Germany.
277
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And got to work on the interior of the new Boxter.
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Even if I loved the work, it was difficult for me
279
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to stay in the deep forest of Germany,
280
00:24:29,234 --> 00:24:30,734
and I was longing for the ocean,
281
00:24:30,769 --> 00:24:31,935
to go surfing again.
282
00:24:31,970 --> 00:24:35,205
So, I packed my bags and I applied for a job,
283
00:24:35,240 --> 00:24:37,107
and I got many offers in California,
284
00:24:37,142 --> 00:24:39,510
and I decided to start working at IDEO.
285
00:24:39,545 --> 00:24:41,845
I worked there for about four years, did uh...
286
00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:42,980
many different designs.
287
00:24:43,015 --> 00:24:44,181
And then I got...
288
00:24:44,216 --> 00:24:46,717
a call one day from Apple,
289
00:24:46,752 --> 00:24:48,919
and I designed a computer called, eMate,
290
00:24:48,954 --> 00:24:52,022
which is the first translucent Apple computer.
291
00:24:52,057 --> 00:24:54,258
But I think at the certain time, there was like--
292
00:24:54,293 --> 00:24:55,826
I had all these projects I wanted to do,
293
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and I decided I was going to set up my own studio.
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[instrumental music playing]
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I've had my studio now for 15 years,
296
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and done a lot of different projects.
297
00:25:12,444 --> 00:25:14,978
After Apple, I started to workfor the sport industry.
298
00:25:15,013 --> 00:25:16,713
I designed the first...
299
00:25:16,748 --> 00:25:19,416
sort of wrap around ski goggle for Smith.
300
00:25:19,451 --> 00:25:22,352
I designed wind surfing sailsfor NeilPryde.
301
00:25:22,387 --> 00:25:25,255
And during this time I got more and more interested
302
00:25:25,290 --> 00:25:28,659
in going back and looking at the surf board again,
303
00:25:28,694 --> 00:25:31,428
and started to surf more and more.
304
00:25:31,463 --> 00:25:32,896
What I do as a designer is,
305
00:25:32,931 --> 00:25:35,666
is really trying to create objects which has meaning.
306
00:25:35,701 --> 00:25:38,669
A meaning which you experience intuitively.
307
00:25:38,704 --> 00:25:44,207
I was very curious if I could do something with the surfboards.
308
00:25:44,242 --> 00:25:46,143
So I used all these modern tools to do this,
309
00:25:46,178 --> 00:25:47,578
I use CAD a lot.
310
00:25:47,613 --> 00:25:49,479
All my boards are designed...
311
00:25:49,514 --> 00:25:51,882
in the computer very precisely.
312
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[drums beating]
313
00:26:01,226 --> 00:26:02,660
[music continues]
314
00:26:09,501 --> 00:26:11,067
The surfer's on...
315
00:26:11,103 --> 00:26:14,471
which have had bigger experiences, which are understanding
316
00:26:14,506 --> 00:26:16,673
the whole context of surfing,
317
00:26:16,708 --> 00:26:18,909
they're very open towards...
318
00:26:18,944 --> 00:26:22,846
my shapes, and my boards, and they understand what I'm trying to do,
319
00:26:22,881 --> 00:26:26,517
and they're also are open to experiencing them.
320
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[drums beating]
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[music continues]
322
00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:43,400
It's definitely a really different surfboard,
323
00:26:43,435 --> 00:26:46,003
and I'm not going to lie. I saw it, and I pretty much thought,
324
00:26:46,038 --> 00:26:48,739
there's no way in hell that thing was going to work.
325
00:26:48,774 --> 00:26:50,307
[guitar music playing]
326
00:26:50,342 --> 00:26:52,476
Say you do a cutback and you get a little bit set behind,
327
00:26:52,511 --> 00:26:55,679
then just hold that line andthat thing just starts flying.
328
00:26:55,714 --> 00:26:59,817
It definitely opened my eyes,and kind of got memore inspired again.
329
00:27:03,121 --> 00:27:04,822
[guitar music playing]
330
00:27:12,864 --> 00:27:14,031
[music continues]
331
00:27:23,475 --> 00:27:25,776
It has really good values of a single fin
332
00:27:25,811 --> 00:27:28,378
which are speed and surfing out on a rail,
333
00:27:28,413 --> 00:27:31,114
but then at the same time, you can turn it on a dime,
334
00:27:31,149 --> 00:27:34,351
and it will just follow its line and spring right out of it.
335
00:27:34,386 --> 00:27:36,253
To me it has the best of both worlds.
336
00:27:36,288 --> 00:27:37,621
You almost feel like you can get rid of
337
00:27:37,656 --> 00:27:39,956
a lot of the bullshit that's in surfing.
338
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[guitar music playing]
339
00:27:47,666 --> 00:27:50,400
[Thomas] I surf because of the experience.
340
00:27:50,435 --> 00:27:52,402
[indistinct chattering]
341
00:27:52,437 --> 00:27:53,670
[Thomas] I like to surf...
342
00:27:53,705 --> 00:27:55,272
where there's not so many people.
343
00:27:55,307 --> 00:27:57,174
I got heckled alot.
344
00:27:57,209 --> 00:27:58,942
I got heckled on my local beach,
345
00:27:58,977 --> 00:28:00,444
I got heckled everywhere.
346
00:28:00,479 --> 00:28:04,047
My social context for the surfboard is not local,
347
00:28:04,082 --> 00:28:05,215
it's global.
348
00:28:05,250 --> 00:28:07,584
I'm inspired by nature in itself, just...
349
00:28:07,619 --> 00:28:10,253
kind of it's-- there's acertain simplicity in nature.
350
00:28:10,288 --> 00:28:14,758
I mean, things nowadays are getting more and more simple for me.
351
00:28:14,793 --> 00:28:18,562
So they might look more andmore complex from the content,
352
00:28:18,597 --> 00:28:22,299
but, the form is telling moreand more...
353
00:28:22,334 --> 00:28:25,402
the real story of the meaningof the product.
354
00:28:25,437 --> 00:28:29,840
The surfboard for me is an amazing piece to explore
355
00:28:29,875 --> 00:28:33,510
because of that. Because it bridges betweens culptural quality
356
00:28:33,545 --> 00:28:36,079
and the performance of the object,
357
00:28:36,114 --> 00:28:39,249
where certain parts of the boards...
358
00:28:39,284 --> 00:28:41,384
gives the user...
359
00:28:41,419 --> 00:28:43,420
a certain type of an experience
360
00:28:43,455 --> 00:28:45,856
in different situations on the wave.
361
00:28:46,558 --> 00:28:48,358
[mellow music playing]
362
00:28:51,229 --> 00:28:52,796
[music continues]
363
00:28:57,836 --> 00:28:59,570
[music continues]
364
00:29:05,911 --> 00:29:08,312
[music continues]
365
00:29:12,417 --> 00:29:14,418
[guitar music playing]
366
00:29:37,342 --> 00:29:39,343
[music continues]
367
00:29:47,886 --> 00:29:50,453
[Josh] I grew up with my-- surfing with my dad.
368
00:29:50,488 --> 00:29:52,889
And my dad, he came from the single fin era,
369
00:29:52,924 --> 00:29:54,491
and then jumped to the twin fin era.
370
00:29:54,526 --> 00:29:56,493
And then, you know, riding thrusters now, and...
371
00:29:56,528 --> 00:29:58,228
he loves riding big waves too.
372
00:29:58,263 --> 00:30:00,130
And so for me surfing with him growing up,
373
00:30:00,165 --> 00:30:01,464
it was pretty much throw.
374
00:30:01,499 --> 00:30:03,733
every single board that we have in the truck,
375
00:30:03,768 --> 00:30:06,570
and you go down to the beach and you're going surfing.
376
00:30:25,357 --> 00:30:28,959
Simmons is the one that said,
"Surfboards are hydrodynamic
planing hulls."
377
00:30:28,994 --> 00:30:31,094
That's what they are.
They're not paddle boards,
378
00:30:31,129 --> 00:30:32,262
they are machines.
379
00:30:32,297 --> 00:30:35,365
Chasing down information for 12 years,
380
00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:36,433
for hydrodynamic-
381
00:30:36,468 --> 00:30:38,401
got the unfinished documentary.
382
00:30:38,436 --> 00:30:41,538
I learned where a lot of boards were.
383
00:30:41,573 --> 00:30:43,206
Very unique boards.
384
00:30:43,241 --> 00:30:46,476
I got to know the people that own them.
385
00:30:46,511 --> 00:30:51,915
Done some art gallery independent stuff in San Diego in spaces, etc.,
386
00:30:51,950 --> 00:30:53,316
working with a lot of artists.
387
00:30:53,351 --> 00:30:55,352
For some reason that was something I like to do.
388
00:30:55,387 --> 00:30:56,620
I have a passion about it.
389
00:30:56,655 --> 00:30:59,422
Take a place that's just a mess,
390
00:30:59,457 --> 00:31:02,225
and take an idea of exhibiting something,
391
00:31:02,260 --> 00:31:06,029
and then spending the time and going through the whole process...
392
00:31:06,064 --> 00:31:09,132
to where it finally on the dayright before it opens,
393
00:31:09,167 --> 00:31:11,902
usually it all comes together.
394
00:31:12,370 --> 00:31:14,404
[drums beating]
395
00:31:25,884 --> 00:31:27,551
[music continues]
396
00:31:50,775 --> 00:31:52,476
[drum beats continue]
397
00:31:59,684 --> 00:32:00,850
[Richard] And there it is.
398
00:32:00,885 --> 00:32:03,453
It's like this cutting... some kind of...
399
00:32:03,488 --> 00:32:06,690
rough stone, and making it end,in like a jewel.
400
00:32:06,725 --> 00:32:08,558
It takes a lot of people to do that.
401
00:32:08,593 --> 00:32:09,960
It's like a sort of a team.
402
00:32:09,995 --> 00:32:13,229
So, when I had the opportunityto do it with boards
403
00:32:13,264 --> 00:32:17,968
that were related to Hydrodynamica, it appealed to me to make that happen.
404
00:32:20,905 --> 00:32:22,706
[drums beating]
405
00:32:31,783 --> 00:32:33,350
[guitar music playing]
406
00:32:35,487 --> 00:32:40,590
[Richard] This show starts with a 1949 George Downing finless Hot Curl.
407
00:32:40,625 --> 00:32:43,393
We've got Bob Simmons, and Terry Hendricks...
408
00:32:43,428 --> 00:32:45,195
two mathematicians,
409
00:32:45,230 --> 00:32:46,596
brilliant guys.
410
00:32:46,631 --> 00:32:49,532
Terry's making spoon shells,and eboards, and planing hulls.
411
00:32:49,567 --> 00:32:51,801
And then you've got George Greenough over there.
412
00:32:51,836 --> 00:32:53,937
And then Steve Lis Fish is on the wall.
413
00:32:53,972 --> 00:32:59,242
And there's a very strong relationship between all of those boards.
414
00:32:59,277 --> 00:33:01,845
And they're all outside the normal realm.
415
00:33:01,880 --> 00:33:04,447
When you see them all together, then behind them
416
00:33:04,482 --> 00:33:07,384
you've got on a wall, the whole IPS series.
417
00:33:07,419 --> 00:33:09,019
Aipa's "Sting",
418
00:33:09,054 --> 00:33:11,054
MR Twin,
419
00:33:11,089 --> 00:33:13,056
Geoff McCoys "Lazor Zap",
420
00:33:13,091 --> 00:33:14,591
Simon's "Thruster".
421
00:33:14,626 --> 00:33:17,394
A lot of the elements that are in all those IPS boards,
422
00:33:17,429 --> 00:33:19,029
from the late seventies and the early eighties,
423
00:33:19,064 --> 00:33:21,765
really, the source of them comes from all those other boards.
424
00:33:21,800 --> 00:33:24,501
Simmons, which guys that
are working their boards out
425
00:33:24,536 --> 00:33:26,403
with mathematical equations.
426
00:33:26,438 --> 00:33:28,471
That all looks very similar.
427
00:33:28,506 --> 00:33:30,006
They look counter intuitive.
428
00:33:30,041 --> 00:33:32,375
They're not pointy, you know.
429
00:33:32,410 --> 00:33:34,277
They're all sort of in this family.
430
00:33:34,312 --> 00:33:39,015
You see relationships between certain things and other things, you know.
431
00:33:39,050 --> 00:33:41,785
If you're tracing it all back
in the modern era,
432
00:33:41,820 --> 00:33:44,621
you'll go back
to the "Hot Curl" in Downing,
433
00:33:44,656 --> 00:33:46,222
and Simmons
in the pointing hull.
434
00:33:46,257 --> 00:33:50,727
And those are the things thatend up being to greateror lesser degrees
435
00:33:50,762 --> 00:33:54,130
in your small waves boards,
and in your big wave boards.
436
00:33:54,165 --> 00:33:56,099
And right now the trend is...
437
00:33:56,134 --> 00:33:57,767
is sort of a...
438
00:33:57,802 --> 00:34:00,537
Uh, like, "Well, maybe we were stuck on...
439
00:34:00,572 --> 00:34:04,707
the skinny hot curl idea for a little too long,
440
00:34:04,742 --> 00:34:08,044
and we need to go this other direction and find the optimum."
441
00:34:08,079 --> 00:34:09,979
And I think that's what's happening.
442
00:34:10,014 --> 00:34:11,614
Everytime I see it I'm like,
443
00:34:11,649 --> 00:34:13,817
"Okay, there's this much of Hot Curl influence in this sport,
444
00:34:13,852 --> 00:34:15,752
and there's this much of Simmons."
445
00:34:16,955 --> 00:34:18,588
[instrumental music playing]
446
00:34:21,860 --> 00:34:23,727
[waves splashing]
447
00:34:31,836 --> 00:34:33,670
[door creaking]
448
00:34:33,705 --> 00:34:34,738
[horn tooting]
449
00:34:39,010 --> 00:34:42,045
[song playing on radio]
450
00:34:44,749 --> 00:34:46,616
[chattering]
451
00:34:46,651 --> 00:34:48,418
-[man] Yeah.
-[Darryl] And then look at it.
452
00:34:49,120 --> 00:34:50,554
[drilling sounds]
453
00:34:54,092 --> 00:34:55,925
Wow.
454
00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:58,628
I was goofying at Cowells
and then I was like...
455
00:34:58,663 --> 00:35:00,130
As I was growing up I was like,
456
00:35:00,165 --> 00:35:03,066
I want to re-regulate...
Look at this, so many
rights around here.
457
00:35:03,101 --> 00:35:04,234
So I just started
surfing regular...
458
00:35:04,269 --> 00:35:05,235
[man] Oh, you did?
459
00:35:05,270 --> 00:35:06,402
-[Darryl] Yeah.
-[man] Good.
460
00:35:06,437 --> 00:35:08,104
'Cause I skate Goofy foot.
461
00:35:08,139 --> 00:35:09,672
So I was...
462
00:35:09,707 --> 00:35:11,041
Could have been in that, yeah.
463
00:35:11,676 --> 00:35:12,676
[laughs]
464
00:35:13,711 --> 00:35:15,312
[drilling noise]
465
00:35:19,951 --> 00:35:21,951
Flea and Troy Virostko
466
00:35:21,986 --> 00:35:24,187
started to ride my boards
when they were little kids.
467
00:35:24,222 --> 00:35:26,756
Their dad, Steve, was an absolute ripper.
468
00:35:26,791 --> 00:35:29,159
One of the good old boys,
one of the red hot guys.
469
00:35:29,194 --> 00:35:31,394
Troy and Darryl, they're brothers.
470
00:35:31,429 --> 00:35:33,096
They absolutely loved each other.
471
00:35:33,131 --> 00:35:35,565
[Darryl] I started surfing when I was four years old.
472
00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:38,702
My dad brought me down to Cowells and helped me surf.
473
00:35:40,371 --> 00:35:42,872
Growing up in Santa Cruz was the best thing ever.
474
00:35:42,907 --> 00:35:46,476
Being a kid, and living blocksfrom the perfect surf spot.
475
00:35:46,511 --> 00:35:48,244
Barney came into the scene.
476
00:35:48,279 --> 00:35:52,782
I think I was in fourth gradeat Bayview. Barney movedhere from Kalinga.
477
00:35:52,817 --> 00:35:54,584
Troy and Barney became friends first
478
00:35:54,619 --> 00:35:56,653
because I think they were in the same class.
479
00:35:56,688 --> 00:35:58,388
You know, I was just always...
480
00:35:58,890 --> 00:36:00,323
hanging around.
481
00:36:00,358 --> 00:36:02,292
Barney and Flea
got really close.
482
00:36:02,327 --> 00:36:03,326
Really close.
483
00:36:03,361 --> 00:36:04,561
A lot of love for each other.
484
00:36:04,596 --> 00:36:06,396
A real strong relationship.
485
00:36:06,431 --> 00:36:09,699
You know, they say the best surfer is the guy that has most fun.
486
00:36:09,734 --> 00:36:11,267
Flat out, Barney was the best surfer.
487
00:36:11,302 --> 00:36:14,404
[Darryl] Barney went to Puerto Escondido and got on the cover.
488
00:36:14,439 --> 00:36:16,539
So, like, limelight was just like...
489
00:36:16,574 --> 00:36:18,608
kind of focused towards Santa Cruz, you know.
490
00:36:18,643 --> 00:36:20,910
I think I was making like300 bucks a month or something.
491
00:36:20,945 --> 00:36:23,980
It got just crazy after that, all of things that we were doing.
492
00:36:24,015 --> 00:36:27,784
Getting shots in the magazine,the whole Air Revolutionjust started blowing up.
493
00:36:28,987 --> 00:36:31,921
[Zach] There's people that still don't like Darryl
494
00:36:31,956 --> 00:36:34,390
for the person he was during all those years.
495
00:36:34,425 --> 00:36:35,959
I mean, he was an asshole, straight up.
496
00:36:35,994 --> 00:36:40,063
If you were not in the click in anyway,
497
00:36:40,098 --> 00:36:43,266
you were going to hear it or feel it in some crappy way,
498
00:36:43,301 --> 00:36:46,236
even though you really might not have been guilty of any thing at all.
499
00:36:46,271 --> 00:36:49,205
He was just basically like localism, whatever you wanna call it.
500
00:36:49,240 --> 00:36:52,208
[Wesley] The first time I met Flea was at Steamer Lane.
501
00:36:52,243 --> 00:36:55,545
I just moved up here from Southern California for college.
502
00:36:55,580 --> 00:36:57,513
So, I decided to paddle out.
503
00:36:57,548 --> 00:37:01,017
Flea and a couple of other guys were out, and a slot wave came to me and,
504
00:37:01,052 --> 00:37:03,353
I'm going down the line and here comes Flea,
505
00:37:03,388 --> 00:37:04,721
paddling up the shoulder,
506
00:37:04,756 --> 00:37:07,790
I ended up just basically ramming right into him.
507
00:37:07,825 --> 00:37:09,659
I ended up getting surrounded by everybody,
508
00:37:09,694 --> 00:37:11,928
and they chased me out of the water.
509
00:37:11,963 --> 00:37:15,465
And, I didn't go back for,
I don't know, at least a year.
510
00:37:16,267 --> 00:37:17,300
Maybe two.
511
00:37:17,335 --> 00:37:19,636
[Zach] Within the logic of his mind,
512
00:37:19,671 --> 00:37:22,338
he was being respectful to the higher ups,
513
00:37:22,373 --> 00:37:25,041
and all of the surfing history,
514
00:37:25,076 --> 00:37:26,409
and culture.
515
00:37:26,444 --> 00:37:27,944
Especially anything related to Hawaii.
516
00:37:27,979 --> 00:37:30,880
He always had the highest possible regard,
517
00:37:30,915 --> 00:37:34,851
and Richard Schmidt, and Vince Collier.
518
00:37:34,886 --> 00:37:37,553
[Darryl] I surfed Mavericks first time, '91.
519
00:37:37,588 --> 00:37:39,122
It was just one of those
afternoons,
520
00:37:39,157 --> 00:37:41,190
we were talking to Vince in his
shaping room and he's like,
521
00:37:41,225 --> 00:37:43,626
"What, look at the buoys, it's on. Let's go."
522
00:37:43,661 --> 00:37:45,127
And he was like, "Let's do it."
523
00:37:45,163 --> 00:37:47,063
He cut in the corner after getting through the breakwater.
524
00:37:47,098 --> 00:37:50,433
We were like, "What!"We couldn't believewe were seeing waves like this.
525
00:37:50,468 --> 00:37:52,302
It was pretty intense, you know, and just...
526
00:37:52,337 --> 00:37:53,737
I just remember that first session.
527
00:37:53,772 --> 00:37:55,905
And it was just crazy, you know. It was this crazy day.
528
00:37:55,940 --> 00:37:58,241
All of a sudden we get a photo at Mavericks
529
00:37:58,276 --> 00:38:00,610
on this huge wave,and the guys are like, "Whoa!"
530
00:38:00,645 --> 00:38:02,178
Look at this neat little deal.
531
00:38:02,213 --> 00:38:03,946
These guys are the locals up here, we should get on this.
532
00:38:03,981 --> 00:38:05,815
So we were going both sides, you know.
533
00:38:05,850 --> 00:38:06,816
We had the airgame.
534
00:38:06,851 --> 00:38:08,418
The two foot Steamer Lane just--
535
00:38:08,453 --> 00:38:10,953
Aircrew everytime we surfed, like, ten of us.
536
00:38:10,988 --> 00:38:14,123
And then we had Mavericks
too, so it was just like
really helpful for us.
537
00:38:14,158 --> 00:38:17,260
I was just feeling crazy, you know, and not scared at all.
538
00:38:17,295 --> 00:38:18,528
I didn't really care if I died.
539
00:38:18,563 --> 00:38:20,463
It was a weird kind of feeling.
540
00:38:20,498 --> 00:38:24,133
Now that I've actually cared
so much about my life.
541
00:38:24,168 --> 00:38:26,869
Having that feeling before,
you know, was pretty intense.
542
00:38:26,904 --> 00:38:31,507
It was just like, I felt so
like... I was surfing every
single day, all day.
543
00:38:31,542 --> 00:38:32,709
That's all I was doing.
544
00:38:32,744 --> 00:38:34,977
Surfing the lane all day every single day.
545
00:38:35,012 --> 00:38:37,814
So I was in
the best paddling shape,
best physical shape,
546
00:38:37,849 --> 00:38:40,083
so I felt really, really, comfortable in the water.
547
00:38:40,118 --> 00:38:41,617
And especially out there.
548
00:38:41,652 --> 00:38:44,754
I got this little sparkle in
my eye thinking back about
549
00:38:44,789 --> 00:38:48,091
all those guys when they were growing up, you know.
550
00:38:48,126 --> 00:38:50,893
'Cause I guess Renee and I got to watch them all pretty much grow up.
551
00:38:50,928 --> 00:38:52,495
'Cause they grew up with our kids.
552
00:38:52,530 --> 00:38:55,665
Flea was always very unique.
553
00:38:55,700 --> 00:38:57,300
He was going to do it his way.
554
00:38:57,335 --> 00:38:58,968
It didn't matter what the rules were,
555
00:38:59,003 --> 00:39:00,670
or what was normal, or this or that.
556
00:39:00,705 --> 00:39:01,904
There was the Flea way.
557
00:39:01,939 --> 00:39:03,672
And that was pretty cool.
558
00:39:03,708 --> 00:39:06,642
You know, it took him a really, really long way and it got him to...
559
00:39:06,677 --> 00:39:08,511
got him to the peak. Got him to the pinnacle.
560
00:39:08,546 --> 00:39:10,513
I'd say that in the early nineties, you know,
561
00:39:10,548 --> 00:39:12,281
some of those Westside guys,
562
00:39:12,316 --> 00:39:13,449
Flea included,
563
00:39:13,484 --> 00:39:15,685
they were the tip
of the spear for
564
00:39:15,720 --> 00:39:18,454
paddling, big wave surfing,
and tow-in big wave surfing.
565
00:39:18,489 --> 00:39:20,757
There was no script to followor anything.
566
00:39:22,093 --> 00:39:25,228
[Darryl] When you win $15,000 for winning a...
567
00:39:25,263 --> 00:39:27,163
a Maverick contest, it feels pretty good.
568
00:39:27,198 --> 00:39:29,399
Slater was in that
second year of contest
569
00:39:29,434 --> 00:39:31,134
and that was kind of
a big deal for everybody.
570
00:39:31,169 --> 00:39:33,403
That was definitely the biggest, biggest win of my life.
571
00:39:33,438 --> 00:39:35,538
It was cool because I beat him in every heat.
572
00:39:35,573 --> 00:39:38,107
You know, I think he wasin every single heat of mine.
573
00:39:38,142 --> 00:39:39,942
There was no confusion.
574
00:39:39,977 --> 00:39:42,612
Third time it was just like, I was losing, you know.
575
00:39:42,647 --> 00:39:45,515
I think I just needed a wave and then I got that wave
576
00:39:45,550 --> 00:39:47,383
in last five minutes.
577
00:39:47,418 --> 00:39:49,419
[Zach] He liked big waves, he charged big waves,
578
00:39:49,454 --> 00:39:51,321
he was passionate about big waves.
579
00:39:51,356 --> 00:39:54,190
And he found himself in a position to go, "Okay, this is pretty damn intense.
580
00:39:54,225 --> 00:39:55,258
I like this."
581
00:39:55,293 --> 00:39:57,527
And he had the ability to pull it off,
582
00:39:57,562 --> 00:39:58,961
to take the late take offs.
583
00:39:58,996 --> 00:40:01,197
He had the ability to get his ass held out of the water,
584
00:40:01,232 --> 00:40:02,432
and rolled around,
585
00:40:02,467 --> 00:40:03,666
and spun, and dizzy.
586
00:40:03,701 --> 00:40:04,834
Let's go get another one.
587
00:40:04,869 --> 00:40:07,637
So much attention kind of
drawn towards myself.
588
00:40:07,672 --> 00:40:10,606
Sponsors want me to travel,
all the trade shows,
589
00:40:10,641 --> 00:40:13,109
drinking, and so much
heavy stuff going on.
590
00:40:13,144 --> 00:40:16,078
Things got crazy.
This money was just no object.
591
00:40:16,113 --> 00:40:17,713
And close to twelve grand
a month.
592
00:40:17,748 --> 00:40:19,582
So I was like, let's go,
you guys want to go.
593
00:40:19,617 --> 00:40:21,451
Let's go to Vegas for a week.
594
00:40:21,486 --> 00:40:23,920
[Zach] Darryl's Mavericks yearswere all just wild.
595
00:40:23,955 --> 00:40:25,421
Booze, Valiums,
596
00:40:25,456 --> 00:40:28,458
but in the more sober stages of all those moments,
597
00:40:28,493 --> 00:40:30,026
just crushing raw talent.
598
00:40:30,061 --> 00:40:32,528
He was just so much raw talent surfing,
599
00:40:32,563 --> 00:40:34,363
It's like he couldn't help but be good.
600
00:40:34,398 --> 00:40:36,899
He wasn't no paddling, or doing push-ups,
601
00:40:36,934 --> 00:40:39,168
or you know, thinking about his diet.
602
00:40:39,203 --> 00:40:40,503
[Darryl]
It was heavy back then.
603
00:40:40,538 --> 00:40:43,272
All the older guys that
were doing crazy stuff.
604
00:40:43,307 --> 00:40:47,510
A lot of cocaine, and weed,
it was kind of gnarly back then.
605
00:40:47,545 --> 00:40:50,480
You kind of look up to maybe
sometimes the wrong people.
606
00:40:50,515 --> 00:40:53,883
When I won my last title
in 2004,
607
00:40:53,918 --> 00:40:55,551
everyone wants to be your friend,
608
00:40:55,586 --> 00:41:00,823
there's chicks, you got a house, hot tubs, '65 ragtop Impala.
609
00:41:00,858 --> 00:41:02,758
Plenty-- it was these crazy times.
610
00:41:02,793 --> 00:41:06,929
[Nat] I always kind of saw himas kind of this rockstar typesurfer guy on the west side.
611
00:41:06,964 --> 00:41:09,131
He drove around, like, a low rider like Cadillac.
612
00:41:09,166 --> 00:41:12,568
I'm like... I think he had
like hydraulics and stuff.
613
00:41:12,603 --> 00:41:14,837
[Darryl] When you stop thinkingabout what's important
614
00:41:14,872 --> 00:41:17,473
and why and how you got to a place that...
615
00:41:17,508 --> 00:41:19,208
that you worked so hard to get to,
616
00:41:19,243 --> 00:41:22,512
from surfing and putting in all that water time and this and that,
617
00:41:22,547 --> 00:41:25,081
and getting these sponsors and doing the right thing.
618
00:41:26,584 --> 00:41:29,585
We got introduced to...first it was cocaine, you know.
619
00:41:29,620 --> 00:41:31,988
Then all of a sudden, like, one night or whatever,
620
00:41:32,023 --> 00:41:33,422
meth, you know, came about.
621
00:41:33,457 --> 00:41:34,991
"Here, try a hit of this," you know.
622
00:41:35,026 --> 00:41:37,860
And when I started smoking methI liked how it made me feel,
623
00:41:37,895 --> 00:41:40,863
and I just got totally addicted to it, you know.
624
00:41:40,898 --> 00:41:42,698
And I needed it every single day.
625
00:41:42,733 --> 00:41:45,735
And that's what scared me 'cause I'd never had that feeling before.
626
00:41:45,770 --> 00:41:50,139
There was a pretty noticeable
point where it stopped working.
627
00:41:50,174 --> 00:41:52,775
Heat, for a Mavericks contest, and he's just nowhere to be seen in this.
628
00:41:52,810 --> 00:41:55,344
His heat's in five minutes,he's not in the water anywhere.
629
00:41:55,379 --> 00:41:56,946
Everyone's in the water. He's not there.
630
00:41:56,981 --> 00:42:00,149
A jet-ski comes out pulling a little tiny rowboat,
631
00:42:00,184 --> 00:42:01,250
and he's in it.
632
00:42:01,285 --> 00:42:04,053
No fins, no wax, nothing.
633
00:42:04,088 --> 00:42:05,588
The heat starts...
634
00:42:05,623 --> 00:42:06,923
and he's looking for wax.
635
00:42:06,958 --> 00:42:10,393
And just raging so hard the night before,
636
00:42:10,428 --> 00:42:12,728
that the only way to hit the brakes on that,
637
00:42:12,763 --> 00:42:14,697
and even have a chance at making the event
638
00:42:14,732 --> 00:42:17,033
is just start hitting
so many valiums,
639
00:42:17,068 --> 00:42:20,603
that now this person's like
so asleep in the lineup.
640
00:42:20,638 --> 00:42:23,039
I think I was in this heat with him, for I was like,
641
00:42:23,074 --> 00:42:25,875
"Cool, I got a better chanceof making it out of this heat."
642
00:42:25,910 --> 00:42:28,711
When Flea was, like,
really at the bottom
of that downhill slide,
643
00:42:28,746 --> 00:42:30,746
when he fell off the cliff up in the North coast,
644
00:42:30,781 --> 00:42:32,982
I think his world was just really intense.
645
00:42:33,017 --> 00:42:34,684
[Darryl] And I broke my arm,
646
00:42:34,719 --> 00:42:37,587
like, double compound fracture.
647
00:42:37,622 --> 00:42:39,622
I had cuts all over
my whole head,
648
00:42:39,657 --> 00:42:42,358
stitches all over
my whole head, face...
649
00:42:42,393 --> 00:42:44,860
I got medevaced over the hill,
650
00:42:44,895 --> 00:42:48,531
'cause, you know,I came close to dying, and...
651
00:42:48,566 --> 00:42:50,099
that still wasn't enough, you know.
652
00:42:50,134 --> 00:42:51,467
That's what's crazy about meth.
653
00:42:51,502 --> 00:42:53,369
I couldn't surf, so I was like,"I can't surf!
654
00:42:53,404 --> 00:42:55,905
Fuck, I might as well fucking get high."
655
00:42:55,940 --> 00:42:59,375
[Zach] After he got out of the hospital, I mean, he just looked so bad.
656
00:42:59,410 --> 00:43:01,444
He comes out into the middle of the street,
657
00:43:01,479 --> 00:43:04,647
and he's just so emaciated.
658
00:43:04,682 --> 00:43:08,317
And he just looked like, literally like beef jerky wrapped around a skeleton.
659
00:43:08,352 --> 00:43:11,687
[Darryl] My dad, and my aunts,and my brother,
660
00:43:11,722 --> 00:43:13,723
and Richard Schmidt, and a couple of guys,
661
00:43:13,758 --> 00:43:16,926
older boys and said, we want you to go to this place called the Beacon house.
662
00:43:16,961 --> 00:43:21,831
I got in my truck with my girlfriend, my now wife, and...
663
00:43:21,866 --> 00:43:24,000
checked myself in and that was it.
664
00:43:24,035 --> 00:43:27,436
[Steve] Wow! That was the consequence chapter, I guess.
665
00:43:27,471 --> 00:43:30,239
Our son went down a similar road in the same time.
666
00:43:30,274 --> 00:43:32,441
And next chapter is recovery.
667
00:43:32,476 --> 00:43:35,444
And I'll tell you, something really sweet happened once upon a time,
668
00:43:35,479 --> 00:43:38,247
I mean, word filtered back to us in our family
669
00:43:38,282 --> 00:43:42,752
that Flea was sobering up
and that was really righteous.
670
00:43:42,787 --> 00:43:47,390
And Renee, my wife, ran into
Flea one day at the lane,
671
00:43:47,425 --> 00:43:51,293
and seeing the two of them hug brings a tear to my eye right now. [laughs]
672
00:43:51,328 --> 00:43:55,064
'Cause I knew we had somebody who came back from the other side.
673
00:43:55,099 --> 00:43:57,800
And I know how hard it is to come back from the other side,
674
00:43:57,835 --> 00:44:00,269
because I've got loved oneswho haven't made it back yet,
675
00:44:00,304 --> 00:44:01,771
or maybe never will.
676
00:44:01,806 --> 00:44:03,506
[Zach] Ninety percent of the people, they don't come back
677
00:44:03,541 --> 00:44:04,707
from being that far gone,
678
00:44:04,742 --> 00:44:07,243
but I think that because of Flea,
679
00:44:07,278 --> 00:44:09,879
his personality is like, it's ingrained in him,
680
00:44:09,914 --> 00:44:13,282
when he just sets his mind, like, "I'm just going to do this!"
681
00:44:13,317 --> 00:44:14,850
He's just going to do it.
682
00:44:14,885 --> 00:44:17,453
[Darryl] When I came back from rehab to my house to clean up,
683
00:44:17,488 --> 00:44:18,521
and like figure it out,
684
00:44:18,556 --> 00:44:20,122
I was like, "Holy shit!"
685
00:44:20,157 --> 00:44:22,024
Seeing how different it was,
686
00:44:22,059 --> 00:44:25,127
How could someone's mind go out so far that way?
687
00:44:25,162 --> 00:44:27,730
Straight over to Barney's, like, 'Barney, what are you doing?"
688
00:44:27,765 --> 00:44:29,365
He kind of cut it out a little bit.
689
00:44:29,400 --> 00:44:31,133
I was completely done.
690
00:44:31,169 --> 00:44:33,202
Barney, he's an artist, so he could do whatever he wants sometimes.
691
00:44:33,237 --> 00:44:35,571
That's why he would, like, tell me, you know. He was like,
692
00:44:35,606 --> 00:44:38,040
"I need to expand my mindsometimes cause I'm an artist."
693
00:44:38,075 --> 00:44:40,209
When I work at Fleahab, and stuff like that,
694
00:44:40,244 --> 00:44:42,311
and I help these people, like, it's just so amazing,
695
00:44:42,346 --> 00:44:45,915
because you watch someone come in, completely broken,
696
00:44:45,950 --> 00:44:50,052
to see them actually bud again, and become this beautiful flower again,
697
00:44:50,087 --> 00:44:51,420
it's just crazy!
698
00:44:51,455 --> 00:44:53,556
And the things that they're doing in their lives now,
699
00:44:53,591 --> 00:44:54,890
you were a part of that,
700
00:44:54,925 --> 00:44:56,659
it's like the best feeling in the world, and...
701
00:44:56,694 --> 00:44:58,427
We all need to help people in life.
702
00:44:58,462 --> 00:44:59,895
It's an amazing thing.
703
00:44:59,930 --> 00:45:01,630
It's amazing what Flea
is doing now these days,
704
00:45:01,665 --> 00:45:04,533
because, it is part of rehabilitation and getting better.
705
00:45:04,568 --> 00:45:08,070
Giving back what you've learned is instrumental in keeping yourself
706
00:45:08,105 --> 00:45:10,272
on the right track, and you're helping others.
707
00:45:10,307 --> 00:45:13,642
Even during his years of abuse he's always had the biggest heart.
708
00:45:13,677 --> 00:45:16,479
He'd see something that he knewthat his friend at home liked,
709
00:45:16,514 --> 00:45:19,248
whether it be a piece of drift wood that was shaped like something,
710
00:45:19,283 --> 00:45:21,751
or a rock, or a shell, and give them as a present.
711
00:45:21,786 --> 00:45:23,219
He's always been an awesome guy,
712
00:45:23,254 --> 00:45:25,454
as far as doing stuff
for the community.
713
00:45:25,489 --> 00:45:26,856
I remember, like, he always used to go down
714
00:45:26,891 --> 00:45:29,325
to Mitchells and Barbecue for the homeless people.
715
00:45:29,360 --> 00:45:32,194
[Darryl] For me, like, havingkids was the best thingin the world.
716
00:45:32,229 --> 00:45:33,429
Having a beautiful wife,
717
00:45:33,464 --> 00:45:35,631
that supported me through all my hard times
718
00:45:35,666 --> 00:45:37,566
was the best thing ever. You know, that's...
719
00:45:37,601 --> 00:45:40,336
She's a strong woman to put up with all my bullshit,
720
00:45:40,371 --> 00:45:42,438
and actually stick with me, and...
721
00:45:42,473 --> 00:45:44,073
come to where we are now.
722
00:45:44,108 --> 00:45:46,509
To have these beautiful children is so amazing.
723
00:45:46,544 --> 00:45:49,945
And to make something, as a child, it's so cool.
724
00:45:49,980 --> 00:45:52,581
It's so amazing that we can do this, you know.
725
00:45:52,616 --> 00:45:54,416
So when I had my first daughter, Lily,
726
00:45:54,451 --> 00:45:58,120
I just fell in love harder than I've ever fallen in love with anything.
727
00:45:58,155 --> 00:45:59,522
And my other daughter, Rita, too.
728
00:45:59,557 --> 00:46:02,191
It's like, I have so much lovefor these two little people.
729
00:46:02,226 --> 00:46:05,027
Making it out on the other end,and having kids, and...
730
00:46:05,062 --> 00:46:08,164
starting to take care of yourlife, and go the rightdirection in your life,
731
00:46:08,199 --> 00:46:11,600
is super fun, and I wouldn't trade it for the world.
732
00:46:11,635 --> 00:46:13,669
Surfing is fun these days, you know.
733
00:46:13,704 --> 00:46:15,905
And I don't have to go out there and surf, and, like...
734
00:46:15,940 --> 00:46:18,607
think that I got to surf betterthan these groms,cause I can't.
735
00:46:18,642 --> 00:46:20,109
These kids are ripping.
736
00:46:20,144 --> 00:46:22,444
I'm so glad that I'm there in my life,
737
00:46:22,479 --> 00:46:24,446
to where it's more of just a fun thing,
738
00:46:24,481 --> 00:46:28,884
and I can see them ripping, and feel their stoke, and stuff like that.
739
00:46:28,919 --> 00:46:32,221
It's really fun just going outand just having a good time.
740
00:46:32,256 --> 00:46:33,956
[instrumental music playing]
741
00:46:48,305 --> 00:46:52,074
[Zach] Darryl changed his course so much that it's like...
742
00:46:52,109 --> 00:46:55,277
you know, somebody who'shad a lot of life experience.
743
00:46:55,312 --> 00:46:58,647
Like stories most people never get to in their life.
744
00:46:58,682 --> 00:47:00,182
Now he's kinda like...
745
00:47:00,217 --> 00:47:01,817
that grom, again.
746
00:47:01,852 --> 00:47:04,954
Almost like the inspired innocent way. Like he's just stoked.
747
00:47:04,989 --> 00:47:08,090
He never even had the chance to have that good way,
748
00:47:08,125 --> 00:47:11,193
which almost makes who he is today more remarkable.
749
00:47:11,228 --> 00:47:14,363
It's not like he's going backto something he knew before.
750
00:47:14,398 --> 00:47:16,832
Like, he's eking this out from scratch.
751
00:47:16,867 --> 00:47:19,869
Then, maybe that's whyhe's just so sincere and honest
752
00:47:19,904 --> 00:47:21,470
'cause it's just fresh and real.
753
00:47:21,506 --> 00:47:24,841
He's getting all of those experiences for the first time.
754
00:47:27,411 --> 00:47:28,878
Barney's death...
755
00:47:29,313 --> 00:47:30,279
Man...
756
00:47:30,314 --> 00:47:31,614
that sucks.
757
00:47:31,649 --> 00:47:33,282
It affects me a lot
because it's, like,
758
00:47:33,317 --> 00:47:34,984
he's my best friend, you know.
759
00:47:35,019 --> 00:47:38,053
And, just seeing him gone, it's just... It's just weird to me.
760
00:47:38,088 --> 00:47:39,755
You take things for granted.
761
00:47:39,790 --> 00:47:43,959
And with Barney I couldn'treally hang out with him asmuch as I wanted to, you know.
762
00:47:43,994 --> 00:47:46,028
Barney had a hard time listening to me.
763
00:47:46,063 --> 00:47:48,464
I was "Little General" to him.That's what he called me.
764
00:47:48,499 --> 00:47:50,232
Everytime we were out going on a trip anywhere,
765
00:47:50,267 --> 00:47:52,801
I was like, "Barney, got your passport?" "Barney, let's go."
766
00:47:52,836 --> 00:47:55,804
I was at his house a hour anda half early every single time.
767
00:47:55,839 --> 00:47:58,274
So I was always on him. He would never, like,
768
00:47:58,309 --> 00:48:01,076
agree with me. So, I kind of gave up a little bit.
769
00:48:01,111 --> 00:48:04,614
That's what's sad. It's like, now that he's gone, it's like, phew!
770
00:48:05,215 --> 00:48:06,482
I wish I would have just
771
00:48:06,517 --> 00:48:08,317
been a little more on him.
772
00:48:08,352 --> 00:48:11,320
I knew that if I ever had needed anything, Barney would be there for me.
773
00:48:11,355 --> 00:48:13,589
Like, there's not a lot of people like that, you know.
774
00:48:13,624 --> 00:48:14,890
And Barney was like that for me.
775
00:48:14,925 --> 00:48:16,859
He knew that I would be therefor him.
776
00:48:16,894 --> 00:48:20,462
Losing that was the hardest thing that's happened in my life.
777
00:48:20,497 --> 00:48:22,164
He had a thin spot in his heart.
778
00:48:22,199 --> 00:48:23,265
And that's what burst.
779
00:48:23,300 --> 00:48:25,100
It was totally avoidable.
780
00:48:25,135 --> 00:48:27,737
If we would have known this, he could have got surgery and got it fixed.
781
00:48:28,839 --> 00:48:30,672
Drugs didn't help in that situation.
782
00:48:30,708 --> 00:48:33,676
I just wished that we would have known that, because then we could have...
783
00:48:33,711 --> 00:48:36,779
actually got his ass in thereand got something done.
784
00:48:36,814 --> 00:48:40,082
I feel like I could havesaved him if I would've known.
785
00:48:40,117 --> 00:48:42,451
I take things from Barney all the time, you know.
786
00:48:42,486 --> 00:48:43,852
He did his own thing, you know.
787
00:48:43,887 --> 00:48:46,555
He lived his life the way he wanted to live his life.
788
00:48:46,590 --> 00:48:48,524
And he was happy all the time.
789
00:48:48,559 --> 00:48:49,692
He enjoyed his life.
790
00:48:49,727 --> 00:48:51,827
And we all need to just enjoyour life,
791
00:48:51,862 --> 00:48:54,330
not take life so seriously sometimes.
792
00:48:54,365 --> 00:48:55,597
He was in my dream last night.
793
00:48:55,632 --> 00:48:57,199
Yeah. I don't remember the dream so well,
794
00:48:57,234 --> 00:48:59,435
but he had to go somewhere, or something like that.
795
00:48:59,470 --> 00:49:00,803
It was just the trippiest thing.
796
00:49:00,838 --> 00:49:02,104
I think he's still around.
797
00:49:02,139 --> 00:49:03,572
Floating around somewhere.
798
00:49:06,210 --> 00:49:08,644
[instrumental music playing]
799
00:49:38,342 --> 00:49:40,476
[music continues]
800
00:50:11,275 --> 00:50:13,175
[music continues]
801
00:50:42,973 --> 00:50:45,007
[music continues]
802
00:51:22,679 --> 00:51:24,513
[man]
Our sacred grounds.
803
00:51:24,548 --> 00:51:27,149
Well, why are they sacred? It's because...
804
00:51:27,184 --> 00:51:29,318
The earth though is not like a washing machine...
805
00:51:29,353 --> 00:51:30,853
It's the clothes are done...
806
00:51:30,888 --> 00:51:35,157
The earth is a neat place for all to cherish.
807
00:51:35,192 --> 00:51:37,926
Don't get stuck in your petty, petty...
808
00:51:37,961 --> 00:51:40,196
Listen to some Tom Petty, Flea likes him.
809
00:51:49,573 --> 00:51:51,674
[man]
Hopefully in the future...
810
00:51:52,543 --> 00:51:54,610
we could live in harmony!
811
00:51:54,645 --> 00:51:57,379
And, uh, learn off each other.
812
00:51:57,414 --> 00:51:58,981
[music continues]
813
00:52:20,938 --> 00:52:22,805
[music continues]
814
00:52:44,428 --> 00:52:45,995
[music continues]
815
00:53:11,188 --> 00:53:12,821
[music stops]
816
00:53:20,464 --> 00:53:22,198
[mellow music playing]
817
00:54:13,083 --> 00:54:15,851
[music continues]
818
00:55:07,471 --> 00:55:09,204
[music continues]
73707
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