Original subtitles

[instrumental music playing]

[speaking in Basque]

[instrumental music playing]

[man speaking in Basque]

[man speaking indistinctively]

[music continues]

Pasaia, this port was one of the main gates to the new world

in the 16th century.

From this place, most of the whaling expedition went to the new world.

Basque whaling in Canada is considered to be

the oldest industrial activity in North America.

But you see, it's not part of the official maritime history

because it's a maritime history about fisherman.

So they used to keep secretly.

So the Basque were the only ones hunting whales for many, many centuries.

Until the beginning of the 17th century,

which many other nations started to hunt whales as well.

But always hiring Basque harpooneers and sailors.

This is one of the most important activities

that Basque fishermen have for many centuries.

When I was much younger, I wanted to become a boatbuilder.

I wanted to build wooden boats.

I was thinking about going to the United States,

to Maine, to the Maine Maritime museum,

to the apprentice shop, to build boats.

But, well, I wasn't quite sure yet.

But then I was surfing in Australia, in Manly,

and somebody I met

knowing that I was Basque,

came to me with this National Geographic issue

about 16th century Basque whaling in America.

And it is an issue about the San Juan world ship.

So, it is the first time I heard about the San Juan,

it's while I was surfing in Australia.

I decided to focus on learning how to build wooden boats,

and, well, I decided to build the San Juan one day.

And many, many years after that, here we are.

I'm building not by myself but with

a bunch of people.

One of the...

success of Basque's ship building,

is the fact that the main materials to build ships,

the iron mines, also the forest,

were located very close to the shipyards.

So that made transportation very affordable.

They use to manage the forest

to provide the right shapes they needed,

like, you know, they used to guide the branches.

[drilling]

[hammer noises]

[drilling continues]

Let me show you.

These are Oliden made oars.

They were the last wooden oar makers in the Basque country.

They don't make them anymore.

But, we still use them, and they're very, very, nice.

[guitar music playing]

[music continues]

[foreign song playing]

[song continues]

[song continues]

[both speaking in Basque]

[chattering]

[keyboard music playing]

[speaking in Basque]

[speaking in Basque]

[Patxi speaking Basque]

[Mikel speaking in Basque]

[Patxi speaking]

[Patxi speaking]

[woman speaking]

[Mikel speaking]

[Patxi speaking]

[Patxi laughing]

[Patxi speaking]

[instrumental music playing]

[music continues]

[music continues]

[Kepa] Well, this is where everything started.

They built this skatepark here in the town and it was full of people skating and...

I was seven years old and we found the...

the surfing first.

Some guys lent us a surf board and

my brothers and me, we started surfing.

I remember we could skate here and already read these lines as a surfer.

Coming from here, and...

I could still leap already.

Oh!

Phew!

And then...

good barrel.

And there was a friend out here doing like this.

And it's amazing how the skaters style they have here,

it's a little bit like surfing, you know.

Because of the lines and the influence of the sea too.

So everybody in the village was coming here,

and everybody was skating.

There was very, very few boards.

I remember we found one board in the trash.

It was completely destroyed.

And we fixed it with tape, you know.

[Kepa] The first wetsuit we bought,

we went to Biarritz 'cause

there was the surf culture there.

There was no wetsuits here, so...

My dad and mum got some money and we drive all the way to the Haritz.

Back then it was an adventure to go to the Haritz.

And then we bought these first wetsuits,

and when they were broken, we had to fix it,

and there was no material here.

The main industry in Bilbao was building ships.

And there was iron in the mountains.

So they took the iron from the mountains straight,

And build the ships for Europe.

All around the world.

And iron for--

I think like 100 years there were a lot of people coming from everywhere.

There was a lot of hope here, but then the iron was finished.

So that was a local crisis.

It was like a big movement.

Like, a big revolution.

It was hard times, but also there was a time for a lot of music.

But, not as a government,

but more as street activists, you know.

[singing in Basque]

[Kepa] Yeah, it's, phew...

it's a big change so...

If you see footage from Bilbao from the early eighties,

you would see that it was a black hole with pollution

and it was a working place, a hard working place.

There was a lot of industry, and...

Now it's, you know, Bilbao's like a... Looks like New York. [laughs]

Yeah, they made a project to change the...

Bilbao from industry

to tourists now.

And that's one thing cool of him.

It came as a symbol of the new Bilbao.

It's a beautiful art piece, you know, as itself.

Basque people, especially in the coastline, knew that

it's been very hard to work the land.

So, most people are focused working in the sea

with the fishermen now.

Very strong connection with the ocean, you know.

That's a way of surviving, you know.

So, I think it influenced a lot in the Basque character.

We always been traveling around the world, you know,

the Basque people.

[guitar music playing]

[Kepa] We are more connected to the world by the sea,

than to Europe by the land, you know.

That's why we trust

this cold terrain personality, you know.

[music continues]

[Kepa] I think times are changing very fast.

I'm traveling the world and I'm looking

some of the places that...

When I was there, like,

six years ago by myself,

there were people that were connected to occidental culture, you know.

And now sometimes I get by Facebook,

six years after I get connected with them, you know.

So, I think all the world is changing now,

and for the good by one side,

and for the bad by other, you know.

'Cause that's never going to come back, you know.

So, for me, it's traveling the world and knowing other cultures is

a way to go back home and really appreciate what we have

in the value of a primitive language,

and culture that we have now.

[guitar music playing]

[Kepa] I was competing for so long which I really liked it at that time.

You're very focused on one beach,

and from the beach to the hotel,

and from the hotel to a beach.

And you're very focused on 20 minutes of the heat, you know.

Sometimes I realize that I wanted to do another thing, you know.

I think the surfing industry also lost a lot of beauty of those old times, you know.

So I was trying to recover that spirit and just take a surf bag and surf boards,

and know the world. As simple as that, you know.

So, yeah, that was the way.

I bought a small camera and I left.

I wasn't trying to do something very sophisticated,

or I didn't have the technique to do good clips, you know.

The way to express myself was just say, hey, I'm here, I'm looking for waves.

It's more about the feeling of being alone.

Probably, if you are with someone,

then things are not that intense, you know.

But when you're by yourself, and you're in a place like that,

everything becomes really dangerous for you...

You're very focused in what's going on in that place.

And every little thing in the normal life disappears to focus on...

on the very important thing which is get to the wave, and survive, you know.

[laughing]

[guitar music playing]

[Kepa] You know, the Basque people. It's been traveling alot,

but also united together.

Culture, you know. Traveling the world has been a...

It's a great experience to know other cultures and other places.

But also it's a way to come back and see

the Basque culture and people,

and tradition as from an objective position, you know.

So, you realize there are little things

that we have here, so,

learn to appreciate our culture

and being proud of what we are, you know.

So it's always great to come back

and be with your friends and family,

and this is where I belong, you know.

[guitar music playing]

I really like to surf here in the urban where we grew up.

It's a urban universe,

but it's a beauty universe, you know.

[guitar music playing]

And then you have the Mundaka,

and it has this wild nature, protected nature that

everything around Mundaka is beautiful, you know.

It's a great wave, but,

also when you are there, everything around you is...

It's very unique, you know.

Everytime I think about it-- I don't believe in God, but,

if there is a reason to believe in God, it's about Mundaka is there, you know.

For me Mundaka is a motivation of living here, you know,

because anytime you can get the wave of your life there, you know.

And you're with family and friends in the water.

So its a very special place, you know,

with the village there.

For us it's like a temple, you know.

[instrumental music playing]

[music continues]

[music continues]

[Kepa] For me Tom Curren was the most influential surfer.

And I think for a lot of people too, you know.

Tom Curren for me is the definition of surf.

He lived in the Basque country

but I remember watching him surf in Mundaka,

and I remember his words,

he was saying that Mundaka was the best wave in the world, you know.

A lot of entrepreneurs in the Basque country historically,

from Elcano to these times, you know--

Elcano, who made the world around tour

to these times, you know, and I think it's not a casuality, you know.

There's a lot of adventurer's, and...

this is also adventure from the Basque people to the world, you know.

[Kepa speaking in Basque]

I would talk about, Natxo. A Basque, strong personality,

optimistic dreamer, you know.

This kid has got something special in him.

A great surfer, and a great person too.

[drums beating]

[drums beating]

[drums beating]

[birds chirping]

[ship horn blaring]

[phone beeps]

[phone beeps]

[speaking in Basque]

[engine revving]

[contemporary instrumental music playing]

[music continues]

[music continues]

I'm Thomas Meyerhoffer.

And I'm from Sweden.

Been surfing since 1982.

I windsurfed, but for us windsurfing in the waves

were as close as you could come to surfing at that point.

Today, there's people surfing everywhere in Sweden.

Where we used to wind surf, same spots, same waves.

All through my high school, I used to build windsurfing boards,

and windsurf a lot.

And then when I decided what I wanted to do,

I had to go to design school and study car design and design,

and there was no schools in Sweden.

So I applied, and had to use my surf boards to get into the school.

I got to go in the late '80s, surf the real waves.

And after my studies at the Arts Center,

I wanted to see if I could get a job at Porsche, in Germany.

And got to work on the interior of the new Boxter.

Even if I loved the work, it was difficult for me

to stay in the deep forest of Germany,

and I was longing for the ocean,

to go surfing again.

So, I packed my bags and I applied for a job,

and I got many offers in California,

and I decided to start working at IDEO.

I worked there for about four years, did uh...

many different designs.

And then I got...

a call one day from Apple,

and I designed a computer called, eMate,

which is the first translucent Apple computer.

But I think at the certain time, there was like--

I had all these projects I wanted to do,

and I decided I was going to set up my own studio.

[instrumental music playing]

I've had my studio now for 15 years,

and done a lot of different projects.

After Apple, I started to work for the sport industry.

I designed the first...

sort of wrap around ski goggle for Smith.

I designed wind surfing sails for NeilPryde.

And during this time I got more and more interested

in going back and looking at the surf board again,

and started to surf more and more.

What I do as a designer is,

is really trying to create objects which has meaning.

A meaning which you experience intuitively.

I was very curious if I could do something with the surfboards.

So I used all these modern tools to do this,

I use CAD a lot.

All my boards are designed...

in the computer very precisely.

[drums beating]

[music continues]

The surfer's on...

which have had bigger experiences, which are understanding

the whole context of surfing,

they're very open towards...

my shapes, and my boards, and they understand what I'm trying to do,

and they're also are open to experiencing them.

[drums beating]

[music continues]

It's definitely a really different surfboard,

and I'm not going to lie. I saw it, and I pretty much thought,

there's no way in hell that thing was going to work.

[guitar music playing]

Say you do a cutback and you get a little bit set behind,

then just hold that line and that thing just starts flying.

It definitely opened my eyes, and kind of got me more inspired again.

[guitar music playing]

[music continues]

It has really good values of a single fin

which are speed and surfing out on a rail,

but then at the same time, you can turn it on a dime,

and it will just follow its line and spring right out of it.

To me it has the best of both worlds.

You almost feel like you can get rid of

a lot of the bullshit that's in surfing.

[guitar music playing]

[Thomas] I surf because of the experience.

[indistinct chattering]

[Thomas] I like to surf...

where there's not so many people.

I got heckled alot.

I got heckled on my local beach,

I got heckled everywhere.

My social context for the surfboard is not local,

it's global.

I'm inspired by nature in itself, just...

kind of it's-- there's a certain simplicity in nature.

I mean, things nowadays are getting more and more simple for me.

So they might look more and more complex from the content,

but, the form is telling more and more...

the real story of the meaning of the product.

The surfboard for me is an amazing piece to explore

because of that. Because it bridges betweens culptural quality

and the performance of the object,

where certain parts of the boards...

gives the user...

a certain type of an experience

in different situations on the wave.

[mellow music playing]

[music continues]

[music continues]

[music continues]

[guitar music playing]

[music continues]

[Josh] I grew up with my-- surfing with my dad.

And my dad, he came from the single fin era,

and then jumped to the twin fin era.

And then, you know, riding thrusters now, and...

he loves riding big waves too.

And so for me surfing with him growing up,

it was pretty much throw.

every single board that we have in the truck,

and you go down to the beach and you're going surfing.

Simmons is the one that said, "Surfboards are hydrodynamic planing hulls."

That's what they are. They're not paddle boards,

they are machines.

Chasing down information for 12 years,

for hydrodynamic-

got the unfinished documentary.

I learned where a lot of boards were.

Very unique boards.

I got to know the people that own them.

Done some art gallery independent stuff in San Diego in spaces, etc.,

working with a lot of artists.

For some reason that was something I like to do.

I have a passion about it.

Take a place that's just a mess,

and take an idea of exhibiting something,

and then spending the time and going through the whole process...

to where it finally on the day right before it opens,

usually it all comes together.

[drums beating]

[music continues]

[drum beats continue]

[Richard] And there it is.

It's like this cutting... some kind of...

rough stone, and making it end, in like a jewel.

It takes a lot of people to do that.

It's like a sort of a team.

So, when I had the opportunity to do it with boards

that were related to Hydrodynamica, it appealed to me to make that happen.

[drums beating]

[guitar music playing]

[Richard] This show starts with a 1949 George Downing finless Hot Curl.

We've got Bob Simmons, and Terry Hendricks...

two mathematicians,

brilliant guys.

Terry's making spoon shells, and eboards, and planing hulls.

And then you've got George Greenough over there.

And then Steve Lis Fish is on the wall.

And there's a very strong relationship between all of those boards.

And they're all outside the normal realm.

When you see them all together, then behind them

you've got on a wall, the whole IPS series.

Aipa's "Sting",

MR Twin,

Geoff McCoys "Lazor Zap",

Simon's "Thruster".

A lot of the elements that are in all those IPS boards,

from the late seventies and the early eighties,

really, the source of them comes from all those other boards.

Simmons, which guys that are working their boards out

with mathematical equations.

That all looks very similar.

They look counter intuitive.

They're not pointy, you know.

They're all sort of in this family.

You see relationships between certain things and other things, you know.

If you're tracing it all back in the modern era,

you'll go back to the "Hot Curl" in Downing,

and Simmons in the pointing hull.

And those are the things that end up being to greater or lesser degrees

in your small waves boards, and in your big wave boards.

And right now the trend is...

is sort of a...

Uh, like, "Well, maybe we were stuck on...

the skinny hot curl idea for a little too long,

and we need to go this other direction and find the optimum."

And I think that's what's happening.

Everytime I see it I'm like,

"Okay, there's this much of Hot Curl influence in this sport,

and there's this much of Simmons."

[instrumental music playing]

[waves splashing]

[door creaking]

[horn tooting]

[song playing on radio]

[chattering]

-[man] Yeah. -[Darryl] And then look at it.

[drilling sounds]

Wow.

I was goofying at Cowells and then I was like...

As I was growing up I was like,

I want to re-regulate... Look at this, so many rights around here.

So I just started surfing regular...

[man] Oh, you did?

-[Darryl] Yeah. -[man] Good.

'Cause I skate Goofy foot.

So I was...

Could have been in that, yeah.

[laughs]

[drilling noise]

Flea and Troy Virostko

started to ride my boards when they were little kids.

Their dad, Steve, was an absolute ripper.

One of the good old boys, one of the red hot guys.

Troy and Darryl, they're brothers.

They absolutely loved each other.

[Darryl] I started surfing when I was four years old.

My dad brought me down to Cowells and helped me surf.

Growing up in Santa Cruz was the best thing ever.

Being a kid, and living blocks from the perfect surf spot.

Barney came into the scene.

I think I was in fourth grade at Bayview. Barney moved here from Kalinga.

Troy and Barney became friends first

because I think they were in the same class.

You know, I was just always...

hanging around.

Barney and Flea got really close.

Really close.

A lot of love for each other.

A real strong relationship.

You know, they say the best surfer is the guy that has most fun.

Flat out, Barney was the best surfer.

[Darryl] Barney went to Puerto Escondido and got on the cover.

So, like, limelight was just like...

kind of focused towards Santa Cruz, you know.

I think I was making like 300 bucks a month or something.

It got just crazy after that, all of things that we were doing.

Getting shots in the magazine, the whole Air Revolution just started blowing up.

[Zach] There's people that still don't like Darryl

for the person he was during all those years.

I mean, he was an asshole, straight up.

If you were not in the click in anyway,

you were going to hear it or feel it in some crappy way,

even though you really might not have been guilty of any thing at all.

He was just basically like localism, whatever you wanna call it.

[Wesley] The first time I met Flea was at Steamer Lane.

I just moved up here from Southern California for college.

So, I decided to paddle out.

Flea and a couple of other guys were out, and a slot wave came to me and,

I'm going down the line and here comes Flea,

paddling up the shoulder,

I ended up just basically ramming right into him.

I ended up getting surrounded by everybody,

and they chased me out of the water.

And, I didn't go back for, I don't know, at least a year.

Maybe two.

[Zach] Within the logic of his mind,

he was being respectful to the higher ups,

and all of the surfing history,

and culture.

Especially anything related to Hawaii.

He always had the highest possible regard,

and Richard Schmidt, and Vince Collier.

[Darryl] I surfed Mavericks first time, '91.

It was just one of those afternoons,

we were talking to Vince in his shaping room and he's like,

"What, look at the buoys, it's on. Let's go."

And he was like, "Let's do it."

He cut in the corner after getting through the breakwater.

We were like, "What!" We couldn't believe we were seeing waves like this.

It was pretty intense, you know, and just...

I just remember that first session.

And it was just crazy, you know. It was this crazy day.

All of a sudden we get a photo at Mavericks

on this huge wave, and the guys are like, "Whoa!"

Look at this neat little deal.

These guys are the locals up here, we should get on this.

So we were going both sides, you know.

We had the airgame.

The two foot Steamer Lane just--

Aircrew everytime we surfed, like, ten of us.

And then we had Mavericks too, so it was just like really helpful for us.

I was just feeling crazy, you know, and not scared at all.

I didn't really care if I died.

It was a weird kind of feeling.

Now that I've actually cared so much about my life.

Having that feeling before, you know, was pretty intense.

It was just like, I felt so like... I was surfing every single day, all day.

That's all I was doing.

Surfing the lane all day every single day.

So I was in the best paddling shape, best physical shape,

so I felt really, really, comfortable in the water.

And especially out there.

I got this little sparkle in my eye thinking back about

all those guys when they were growing up, you know.

'Cause I guess Renee and I got to watch them all pretty much grow up.

'Cause they grew up with our kids.

Flea was always very unique.

He was going to do it his way.

It didn't matter what the rules were,

or what was normal, or this or that.

There was the Flea way.

And that was pretty cool.

You know, it took him a really, really long way and it got him to...

got him to the peak. Got him to the pinnacle.

I'd say that in the early nineties, you know,

some of those Westside guys,

Flea included,

they were the tip of the spear for

paddling, big wave surfing, and tow-in big wave surfing.

There was no script to follow or anything.

[Darryl] When you win $15,000 for winning a...

a Maverick contest, it feels pretty good.

Slater was in that second year of contest

and that was kind of a big deal for everybody.

That was definitely the biggest, biggest win of my life.

It was cool because I beat him in every heat.

You know, I think he was in every single heat of mine.

There was no confusion.

Third time it was just like, I was losing, you know.

I think I just needed a wave and then I got that wave

in last five minutes.

[Zach] He liked big waves, he charged big waves,

he was passionate about big waves.

And he found himself in a position to go, "Okay, this is pretty damn intense.

I like this."

And he had the ability to pull it off,

to take the late take offs.

He had the ability to get his ass held out of the water,

and rolled around,

and spun, and dizzy.

Let's go get another one.

So much attention kind of drawn towards myself.

Sponsors want me to travel, all the trade shows,

drinking, and so much heavy stuff going on.

Things got crazy. This money was just no object.

And close to twelve grand a month.

So I was like, let's go, you guys want to go.

Let's go to Vegas for a week.

[Zach] Darryl's Mavericks years were all just wild.

Booze, Valiums,

but in the more sober stages of all those moments,

just crushing raw talent.

He was just so much raw talent surfing,

It's like he couldn't help but be good.

He wasn't no paddling, or doing push-ups,

or you know, thinking about his diet.

[Darryl] It was heavy back then.

All the older guys that were doing crazy stuff.

A lot of cocaine, and weed, it was kind of gnarly back then.

You kind of look up to maybe sometimes the wrong people.

When I won my last title in 2004,

everyone wants to be your friend,

there's chicks, you got a house, hot tubs, '65 ragtop Impala.

Plenty-- it was these crazy times.

[Nat] I always kind of saw him as kind of this rockstar type surfer guy on the west side.

He drove around, like, a low rider like Cadillac.

I'm like... I think he had like hydraulics and stuff.

[Darryl] When you stop thinking about what's important

and why and how you got to a place that...

that you worked so hard to get to,

from surfing and putting in all that water time and this and that,

and getting these sponsors and doing the right thing.

We got introduced to... first it was cocaine, you know.

Then all of a sudden, like, one night or whatever,

meth, you know, came about.

"Here, try a hit of this," you know.

And when I started smoking meth I liked how it made me feel,

and I just got totally addicted to it, you know.

And I needed it every single day.

And that's what scared me 'cause I'd never had that feeling before.

There was a pretty noticeable point where it stopped working.

Heat, for a Mavericks contest, and he's just nowhere to be seen in this.

His heat's in five minutes, he's not in the water anywhere.

Everyone's in the water. He's not there.

A jet-ski comes out pulling a little tiny rowboat,

and he's in it.

No fins, no wax, nothing.

The heat starts...

and he's looking for wax.

And just raging so hard the night before,

that the only way to hit the brakes on that,

and even have a chance at making the event

is just start hitting so many valiums,

that now this person's like so asleep in the lineup.

I think I was in this heat with him, for I was like,

"Cool, I got a better chance of making it out of this heat."

When Flea was, like, really at the bottom of that downhill slide,

when he fell off the cliff up in the North coast,

I think his world was just really intense.

[Darryl] And I broke my arm,

like, double compound fracture.

I had cuts all over my whole head,

stitches all over my whole head, face...

I got medevaced over the hill,

'cause, you know, I came close to dying, and...

that still wasn't enough, you know.

That's what's crazy about meth.

I couldn't surf, so I was like, "I can't surf!

Fuck, I might as well fucking get high."

[Zach] After he got out of the hospital, I mean, he just looked so bad.

He comes out into the middle of the street,

and he's just so emaciated.

And he just looked like, literally like beef jerky wrapped around a skeleton.

[Darryl] My dad, and my aunts, and my brother,

and Richard Schmidt, and a couple of guys,

older boys and said, we want you to go to this place called the Beacon house.

I got in my truck with my girlfriend, my now wife, and...

checked myself in and that was it.

[Steve] Wow! That was the consequence chapter, I guess.

Our son went down a similar road in the same time.

And next chapter is recovery.

And I'll tell you, something really sweet happened once upon a time,

I mean, word filtered back to us in our family

that Flea was sobering up and that was really righteous.

And Renee, my wife, ran into Flea one day at the lane,

and seeing the two of them hug brings a tear to my eye right now. [laughs]

'Cause I knew we had somebody who came back from the other side.

And I know how hard it is to come back from the other side,

because I've got loved ones who haven't made it back yet,

or maybe never will.

[Zach] Ninety percent of the people, they don't come back

from being that far gone,

but I think that because of Flea,

his personality is like, it's ingrained in him,

when he just sets his mind, like, "I'm just going to do this!"

He's just going to do it.

[Darryl] When I came back from rehab to my house to clean up,

and like figure it out,

I was like, "Holy shit!"

Seeing how different it was,

How could someone's mind go out so far that way?

Straight over to Barney's, like, 'Barney, what are you doing?"

He kind of cut it out a little bit.

I was completely done.

Barney, he's an artist, so he could do whatever he wants sometimes.

That's why he would, like, tell me, you know. He was like,

"I need to expand my mind sometimes cause I'm an artist."

When I work at Fleahab, and stuff like that,

and I help these people, like, it's just so amazing,

because you watch someone come in, completely broken,

to see them actually bud again, and become this beautiful flower again,

it's just crazy!

And the things that they're doing in their lives now,

you were a part of that,

it's like the best feeling in the world, and...

We all need to help people in life.

It's an amazing thing.

It's amazing what Flea is doing now these days,

because, it is part of rehabilitation and getting better.

Giving back what you've learned is instrumental in keeping yourself

on the right track, and you're helping others.

Even during his years of abuse he's always had the biggest heart.

He'd see something that he knew that his friend at home liked,

whether it be a piece of drift wood that was shaped like something,

or a rock, or a shell, and give them as a present.

He's always been an awesome guy,

as far as doing stuff for the community.

I remember, like, he always used to go down

to Mitchells and Barbecue for the homeless people.

[Darryl] For me, like, having kids was the best thing in the world.

Having a beautiful wife,

that supported me through all my hard times

was the best thing ever. You know, that's...

She's a strong woman to put up with all my bullshit,

and actually stick with me, and...

come to where we are now.

To have these beautiful children is so amazing.

And to make something, as a child, it's so cool.

It's so amazing that we can do this, you know.

So when I had my first daughter, Lily,

I just fell in love harder than I've ever fallen in love with anything.

And my other daughter, Rita, too.

It's like, I have so much love for these two little people.

Making it out on the other end, and having kids, and...

starting to take care of your life, and go the right direction in your life,

is super fun, and I wouldn't trade it for the world.

Surfing is fun these days, you know.

And I don't have to go out there and surf, and, like...

think that I got to surf better than these groms, cause I can't.

These kids are ripping.

I'm so glad that I'm there in my life,

to where it's more of just a fun thing,

and I can see them ripping, and feel their stoke, and stuff like that.

It's really fun just going out and just having a good time.

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[Zach] Darryl changed his course so much that it's like...

you know, somebody who's had a lot of life experience.

Like stories most people never get to in their life.

Now he's kinda like...

that grom, again.

Almost like the inspired innocent way. Like he's just stoked.

He never even had the chance to have that good way,

which almost makes who he is today more remarkable.

It's not like he's going back to something he knew before.

Like, he's eking this out from scratch.

Then, maybe that's why he's just so sincere and honest

'cause it's just fresh and real.

He's getting all of those experiences for the first time.

Barney's death...

Man...

that sucks.

It affects me a lot because it's, like,

he's my best friend, you know.

And, just seeing him gone, it's just... It's just weird to me.

You take things for granted.

And with Barney I couldn't really hang out with him as much as I wanted to, you know.

Barney had a hard time listening to me.

I was "Little General" to him. That's what he called me.

Everytime we were out going on a trip anywhere,

I was like, "Barney, got your passport?" "Barney, let's go."

I was at his house a hour and a half early every single time.

So I was always on him. He would never, like,

agree with me. So, I kind of gave up a little bit.

That's what's sad. It's like, now that he's gone, it's like, phew!

I wish I would have just

been a little more on him.

I knew that if I ever had needed anything, Barney would be there for me.

Like, there's not a lot of people like that, you know.

And Barney was like that for me.

He knew that I would be there for him.

Losing that was the hardest thing that's happened in my life.

He had a thin spot in his heart.

And that's what burst.

It was totally avoidable.

If we would have known this, he could have got surgery and got it fixed.

Drugs didn't help in that situation.

I just wished that we would have known that, because then we could have...

actually got his ass in there and got something done.

I feel like I could have saved him if I would've known.

I take things from Barney all the time, you know.

He did his own thing, you know.

He lived his life the way he wanted to live his life.

And he was happy all the time.

He enjoyed his life.

And we all need to just enjoy our life,

not take life so seriously sometimes.

He was in my dream last night.

Yeah. I don't remember the dream so well,

but he had to go somewhere, or something like that.

It was just the trippiest thing.

I think he's still around.

Floating around somewhere.

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[man] Our sacred grounds.

Well, why are they sacred? It's because...

The earth though is not like a washing machine...

It's the clothes are done...

The earth is a neat place for all to cherish.

Don't get stuck in your petty, petty...

Listen to some Tom Petty, Flea likes him.

[man] Hopefully in the future...

we could live in harmony!

And, uh, learn off each other.

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