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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:05,739 --> 00:00:10,509 [instrumental music playing] 2 00:01:32,292 --> 00:01:34,259 [speaking in Basque] 3 00:01:39,199 --> 00:01:42,501 [instrumental music playing] 4 00:01:44,237 --> 00:01:46,138 [man speaking in Basque] 5 00:02:09,763 --> 00:02:11,296 [man speaking indistinctively] 6 00:02:19,139 --> 00:02:21,206 [music continues] 7 00:02:35,689 --> 00:02:39,824 Pasaia, this port was one of the main gates to the new world 8 00:02:39,859 --> 00:02:41,592 in the 16th century. 9 00:02:41,628 --> 00:02:44,629 From this place, most of the whaling expedition went to the new world. 10 00:02:44,664 --> 00:02:47,232 Basque whaling in Canada is considered to be 11 00:02:47,267 --> 00:02:49,868 the oldest industrial activity in North America. 12 00:02:49,903 --> 00:02:53,338 But you see, it's not part of the official maritime history 13 00:02:53,373 --> 00:02:56,341 because it's a maritime history about fisherman. 14 00:02:56,376 --> 00:02:58,209 So they used to keep secretly. 15 00:02:58,245 --> 00:03:02,013 So the Basque were the only ones hunting whales for many, many centuries. 16 00:03:02,048 --> 00:03:04,749 Until the beginning of the 17th century, 17 00:03:04,784 --> 00:03:08,520 which many other nations started to hunt whales as well. 18 00:03:08,555 --> 00:03:12,190 But always hiring Basque harpooneers and sailors. 19 00:03:12,225 --> 00:03:15,327 This is one of the most important activities 20 00:03:15,362 --> 00:03:18,430 that Basque fishermen have for many centuries. 21 00:03:18,465 --> 00:03:22,300 When I was much younger, I wanted to become a boatbuilder. 22 00:03:22,335 --> 00:03:24,069 I wanted to build wooden boats. 23 00:03:24,104 --> 00:03:26,304 I was thinking about going to the United States, 24 00:03:26,339 --> 00:03:28,573 to Maine, to the Maine Maritime museum, 25 00:03:28,608 --> 00:03:30,976 to the apprentice shop, to build boats. 26 00:03:31,011 --> 00:03:33,111 But, well, I wasn't quite sure yet. 27 00:03:33,146 --> 00:03:36,448 But then I was surfing in Australia, in Manly, 28 00:03:36,483 --> 00:03:38,283 and somebody I met 29 00:03:38,318 --> 00:03:40,085 knowing that I was Basque, 30 00:03:40,120 --> 00:03:42,320 came to me with this National Geographic issue 31 00:03:42,355 --> 00:03:45,724 about 16th century Basque whaling in America. 32 00:03:45,759 --> 00:03:49,527 And it is an issue about the San Juan world ship. 33 00:03:49,562 --> 00:03:52,397 So, it is the first time I heard about the San Juan, 34 00:03:52,432 --> 00:03:55,100 it's while I was surfing in Australia. 35 00:03:55,135 --> 00:03:58,803 I decided to focus on learning how to build wooden boats, 36 00:03:58,838 --> 00:04:02,474 and, well, I decided to build the San Juan one day. 37 00:04:02,509 --> 00:04:05,010 And many, many years after that, here we are. 38 00:04:05,045 --> 00:04:07,045 I'm building not by myself but with 39 00:04:07,080 --> 00:04:08,347 a bunch of people. 40 00:04:08,848 --> 00:04:10,048 One of the... 41 00:04:10,083 --> 00:04:12,183 success of Basque's ship building, 42 00:04:12,218 --> 00:04:15,287 is the fact that the main materials to build ships, 43 00:04:15,322 --> 00:04:17,522 the iron mines, also the forest, 44 00:04:17,557 --> 00:04:20,325 were located very close to the shipyards. 45 00:04:20,360 --> 00:04:23,528 So that made transportation very affordable. 46 00:04:25,965 --> 00:04:28,300 They use to manage the forest 47 00:04:28,335 --> 00:04:30,535 to provide the right shapes they needed, 48 00:04:30,570 --> 00:04:33,205 like, you know, they used to guide the branches. 49 00:04:33,973 --> 00:04:35,540 [drilling] 50 00:04:36,076 --> 00:04:37,609 [hammer noises] 51 00:04:38,244 --> 00:04:39,578 [drilling continues] 52 00:04:40,847 --> 00:04:41,746 Let me show you. 53 00:04:41,781 --> 00:04:43,848 These are Oliden made oars. 54 00:04:43,883 --> 00:04:47,819 They were the last wooden oar makers in the Basque country. 55 00:04:47,854 --> 00:04:49,120 They don't make them anymore. 56 00:04:49,155 --> 00:04:52,224 But, we still use them, and they're very, very, nice. 57 00:04:56,096 --> 00:04:58,530 [guitar music playing] 58 00:05:16,750 --> 00:05:19,685 [music continues] 59 00:05:20,987 --> 00:05:24,389 [foreign song playing] 60 00:05:43,510 --> 00:05:46,611 [song continues] 61 00:06:16,709 --> 00:06:18,810 [song continues] 62 00:06:27,187 --> 00:06:28,587 [both speaking in Basque] 63 00:06:31,558 --> 00:06:34,092 [chattering] 64 00:06:36,796 --> 00:06:38,597 [keyboard music playing] 65 00:06:41,201 --> 00:06:43,101 [speaking in Basque] 66 00:07:33,820 --> 00:07:35,454 [speaking in Basque] 67 00:08:01,114 --> 00:08:02,447 [Patxi speaking Basque] 68 00:08:31,177 --> 00:08:32,577 [Mikel speaking in Basque] 69 00:08:55,234 --> 00:08:56,635 [Patxi speaking] 70 00:09:27,600 --> 00:09:28,567 [Patxi speaking] 71 00:09:39,145 --> 00:09:40,211 [woman speaking] 72 00:09:41,047 --> 00:09:42,113 [Mikel speaking] 73 00:09:45,652 --> 00:09:46,585 [Patxi speaking] 74 00:09:55,728 --> 00:09:56,828 [Patxi laughing] 75 00:10:27,493 --> 00:10:28,360 [Patxi speaking] 76 00:10:58,958 --> 00:11:00,859 [instrumental music playing] 77 00:11:26,586 --> 00:11:28,286 [music continues] 78 00:11:44,170 --> 00:11:45,770 [music continues] 79 00:12:03,389 --> 00:12:05,923 [Kepa] Well, this is where everything started. 80 00:12:05,958 --> 00:12:10,328 They built this skatepark here in the town and it was full of people skating and... 81 00:12:10,363 --> 00:12:12,964 I was seven years old and we found the... 82 00:12:12,999 --> 00:12:14,098 the surfing first. 83 00:12:14,133 --> 00:12:16,100 Some guys lent us a surf board and 84 00:12:16,135 --> 00:12:17,935 my brothers and me, we started surfing. 85 00:12:17,970 --> 00:12:22,607 I remember we could skate here and already read these lines as a surfer. 86 00:12:22,642 --> 00:12:24,109 Coming from here, and... 87 00:12:26,045 --> 00:12:27,645 I could still leap already. 88 00:12:30,349 --> 00:12:32,150 Oh! 89 00:12:33,352 --> 00:12:34,486 Phew! 90 00:12:36,556 --> 00:12:37,689 And then... 91 00:12:38,524 --> 00:12:40,258 good barrel. 92 00:12:40,293 --> 00:12:42,894 And there was a friend out here doing like this. 93 00:12:42,929 --> 00:12:45,463 And it's amazing how the skaters style they have here, 94 00:12:45,498 --> 00:12:47,265 it's a little bit like surfing, you know. 95 00:12:47,300 --> 00:12:49,667 Because of the lines and the influence of the sea too. 96 00:12:49,702 --> 00:12:51,936 So everybody in the village was coming here, 97 00:12:51,971 --> 00:12:53,104 and everybody was skating. 98 00:12:53,139 --> 00:12:54,539 There was very, very few boards. 99 00:12:54,574 --> 00:12:56,808 I remember we found one board in the trash. 100 00:12:56,843 --> 00:12:58,009 It was completely destroyed. 101 00:12:58,044 --> 00:13:00,178 And we fixed it with tape, you know. 102 00:13:03,983 --> 00:13:05,750 [Kepa] The first wetsuit we bought, 103 00:13:05,785 --> 00:13:07,151 we went to Biarritz 'cause 104 00:13:07,186 --> 00:13:08,486 there was the surf culture there. 105 00:13:08,521 --> 00:13:10,154 There was no wetsuits here, so... 106 00:13:10,190 --> 00:13:14,225 My dad and mum got some money and we drive all the way to the Haritz. 107 00:13:14,260 --> 00:13:17,094 Back then it was an adventure to go to the Haritz. 108 00:13:17,129 --> 00:13:18,863 And then we bought these first wetsuits, 109 00:13:18,898 --> 00:13:20,932 and when they were broken, we had to fix it, 110 00:13:20,967 --> 00:13:22,667 and there was no material here. 111 00:13:25,438 --> 00:13:28,139 The main industry in Bilbao was building ships. 112 00:13:28,174 --> 00:13:30,875 And there was iron in the mountains. 113 00:13:30,910 --> 00:13:33,277 So they took the iron from the mountains straight, 114 00:13:33,312 --> 00:13:35,613 And build the ships for Europe. 115 00:13:35,648 --> 00:13:37,715 All around the world. 116 00:13:37,750 --> 00:13:39,550 And iron for-- 117 00:13:39,585 --> 00:13:42,253 I think like 100 years there were a lot of people coming from everywhere. 118 00:13:42,288 --> 00:13:44,989 There was a lot of hope here, but then the iron was finished. 119 00:13:45,024 --> 00:13:47,158 So that was a local crisis. 120 00:13:47,193 --> 00:13:49,760 It was like a big movement. 121 00:13:49,795 --> 00:13:51,462 Like, a big revolution. 122 00:13:51,497 --> 00:13:55,266 It was hard times, but also there was a time for a lot of music. 123 00:13:55,301 --> 00:13:57,768 But, not as a government, 124 00:13:57,803 --> 00:14:00,772 but more as street activists, you know. 125 00:14:01,340 --> 00:14:03,408 [singing in Basque] 126 00:14:26,399 --> 00:14:27,865 [Kepa] Yeah, it's, phew... 127 00:14:27,900 --> 00:14:29,133 it's a big change so... 128 00:14:29,168 --> 00:14:31,869 If you see footage from Bilbao from the early eighties, 129 00:14:31,904 --> 00:14:35,940 you would see that it was a black hole with pollution 130 00:14:35,975 --> 00:14:38,743 and it was a working place, a hard working place. 131 00:14:38,778 --> 00:14:40,544 There was a lot of industry, and... 132 00:14:40,579 --> 00:14:44,715 Now it's, you know, Bilbao's like a... Looks like New York. [laughs] 133 00:14:44,750 --> 00:14:48,319 Yeah, they made a project to change the... 134 00:14:48,354 --> 00:14:50,855 Bilbao from industry 135 00:14:50,890 --> 00:14:52,023 to tourists now. 136 00:14:52,058 --> 00:14:53,724 And that's one thing cool of him. 137 00:14:53,759 --> 00:14:56,727 It came as a symbol of the new Bilbao. 138 00:14:56,762 --> 00:15:00,565 It's a beautiful art piece, you know, as itself. 139 00:15:01,834 --> 00:15:04,535 Basque people, especially in the coastline, knew that 140 00:15:04,570 --> 00:15:06,203 it's been very hard to work the land. 141 00:15:06,238 --> 00:15:08,739 So, most people are focused working in the sea 142 00:15:08,774 --> 00:15:10,241 with the fishermen now. 143 00:15:10,276 --> 00:15:12,843 Very strong connection with the ocean, you know. 144 00:15:12,878 --> 00:15:14,712 That's a way of surviving, you know. 145 00:15:14,747 --> 00:15:18,683 So, I think it influenced a lot in the Basque character. 146 00:15:18,718 --> 00:15:21,085 We always been traveling around the world, you know, 147 00:15:21,120 --> 00:15:22,754 the Basque people. 148 00:15:23,789 --> 00:15:26,223 [guitar music playing] 149 00:15:26,258 --> 00:15:28,592 [Kepa] We are more connected to the world by the sea, 150 00:15:28,627 --> 00:15:30,761 than to Europe by the land, you know. 151 00:15:30,796 --> 00:15:31,929 That's why we trust 152 00:15:31,964 --> 00:15:33,564 this cold terrain personality, you know. 153 00:15:34,266 --> 00:15:36,567 [music continues] 154 00:15:37,570 --> 00:15:39,637 [Kepa] I think times are changing very fast. 155 00:15:39,672 --> 00:15:42,273 I'm traveling the world and I'm looking 156 00:15:42,308 --> 00:15:43,941 some of the places that... 157 00:15:43,976 --> 00:15:46,210 When I was there, like, 158 00:15:46,245 --> 00:15:48,012 six years ago by myself, 159 00:15:48,047 --> 00:15:51,215 there were people that were connected to occidental culture, you know. 160 00:15:51,250 --> 00:15:53,517 And now sometimes I get by Facebook, 161 00:15:53,552 --> 00:15:55,786 six years after I get connected with them, you know. 162 00:15:55,821 --> 00:15:58,022 So, I think all the world is changing now, 163 00:15:58,057 --> 00:15:59,423 and for the good by one side, 164 00:15:59,458 --> 00:16:00,858 and for the bad by other, you know. 165 00:16:00,893 --> 00:16:02,994 'Cause that's never going to come back, you know. 166 00:16:03,029 --> 00:16:06,397 So, for me, it's traveling the world and knowing other cultures is 167 00:16:06,432 --> 00:16:09,767 a way to go back home and really appreciate what we have 168 00:16:09,802 --> 00:16:12,036 in the value of a primitive language, 169 00:16:12,071 --> 00:16:14,038 and culture that we have now. 170 00:16:14,073 --> 00:16:16,841 [guitar music playing] 171 00:16:20,913 --> 00:16:25,383 [Kepa] I was competing for so long which I really liked it at that time. 172 00:16:25,418 --> 00:16:26,984 You're very focused on one beach, 173 00:16:27,019 --> 00:16:28,819 and from the beach to the hotel, 174 00:16:28,854 --> 00:16:30,454 and from the hotel to a beach. 175 00:16:30,489 --> 00:16:32,656 And you're very focused on 20 minutes of the heat, you know. 176 00:16:32,691 --> 00:16:35,960 Sometimes I realize that I wanted to do another thing, you know. 177 00:16:35,995 --> 00:16:40,431 I think the surfing industry also lost a lot of beauty of those old times, you know. 178 00:16:40,466 --> 00:16:44,935 So I was trying to recover that spirit and just take a surf bag and surf boards, 179 00:16:44,970 --> 00:16:47,738 and know the world. As simple as that, you know. 180 00:16:47,773 --> 00:16:49,407 So, yeah, that was the way. 181 00:16:49,442 --> 00:16:53,477 I bought a small camera and I left. 182 00:16:53,512 --> 00:16:56,814 I wasn't trying to do something very sophisticated, 183 00:16:56,849 --> 00:17:00,284 or I didn't have the technique to do good clips, you know. 184 00:17:00,319 --> 00:17:04,822 The way to express myself was just say, hey, I'm here, I'm looking for waves. 185 00:17:04,857 --> 00:17:06,724 It's more about the feeling of being alone. 186 00:17:06,759 --> 00:17:08,392 Probably, if you are with someone, 187 00:17:08,427 --> 00:17:10,628 then things are not that intense, you know. 188 00:17:10,663 --> 00:17:13,230 But when you're by yourself, and you're in a place like that, 189 00:17:13,265 --> 00:17:15,666 everything becomes really dangerous for you... 190 00:17:15,701 --> 00:17:18,803 You're very focused in what's going on in that place. 191 00:17:18,838 --> 00:17:22,540 And every little thing in the normal life disappears to focus on... 192 00:17:22,575 --> 00:17:27,678 on the very important thing which is get to the wave, and survive, you know. 193 00:17:27,713 --> 00:17:29,580 [laughing] 194 00:17:30,382 --> 00:17:32,717 [guitar music playing] 195 00:17:34,987 --> 00:17:37,455 [Kepa] You know, the Basque people. It's been traveling alot, 196 00:17:37,490 --> 00:17:39,056 but also united together. 197 00:17:39,091 --> 00:17:41,225 Culture, you know. Traveling the world has been a... 198 00:17:41,260 --> 00:17:44,462 It's a great experience to know other cultures and other places. 199 00:17:44,497 --> 00:17:46,997 But also it's a way to come back and see 200 00:17:47,032 --> 00:17:48,866 the Basque culture and people, 201 00:17:48,901 --> 00:17:52,169 and tradition as from an objective position, you know. 202 00:17:52,204 --> 00:17:54,205 So, you realize there are little things 203 00:17:54,240 --> 00:17:55,940 that we have here, so, 204 00:17:55,975 --> 00:17:57,675 learn to appreciate our culture 205 00:17:57,710 --> 00:17:59,577 and being proud of what we are, you know. 206 00:17:59,612 --> 00:18:01,512 So it's always great to come back 207 00:18:01,547 --> 00:18:03,647 and be with your friends and family, 208 00:18:03,682 --> 00:18:05,616 and this is where I belong, you know. 209 00:18:05,651 --> 00:18:08,186 [guitar music playing] 210 00:18:10,923 --> 00:18:14,225 I really like to surf here in the urban where we grew up. 211 00:18:14,260 --> 00:18:15,593 It's a urban universe, 212 00:18:15,628 --> 00:18:17,695 but it's a beauty universe, you know. 213 00:18:17,730 --> 00:18:20,064 [guitar music playing] 214 00:18:20,099 --> 00:18:21,732 And then you have the Mundaka, 215 00:18:21,767 --> 00:18:25,269 and it has this wild nature, protected nature that 216 00:18:25,304 --> 00:18:27,238 everything around Mundaka is beautiful, you know. 217 00:18:27,273 --> 00:18:28,606 It's a great wave, but, 218 00:18:28,641 --> 00:18:32,009 also when you are there, everything around you is... 219 00:18:32,044 --> 00:18:33,477 It's very unique, you know. 220 00:18:33,512 --> 00:18:35,946 Everytime I think about it-- I don't believe in God, but, 221 00:18:35,981 --> 00:18:39,783 if there is a reason to believe in God, it's about Mundaka is there, you know. 222 00:18:39,818 --> 00:18:42,686 For me Mundaka is a motivation of living here, you know, 223 00:18:42,721 --> 00:18:45,556 because anytime you can get the wave of your life there, you know. 224 00:18:45,591 --> 00:18:47,625 And you're with family and friends in the water. 225 00:18:47,660 --> 00:18:49,093 So its a very special place, you know, 226 00:18:49,128 --> 00:18:50,828 with the village there. 227 00:18:50,863 --> 00:18:53,097 For us it's like a temple, you know. 228 00:18:53,132 --> 00:18:55,333 [instrumental music playing] 229 00:19:11,884 --> 00:19:14,652 [music continues] 230 00:20:00,733 --> 00:20:02,533 [music continues] 231 00:20:24,657 --> 00:20:28,459 [Kepa] For me Tom Curren was the most influential surfer. 232 00:20:28,494 --> 00:20:31,795 And I think for a lot of people too, you know. 233 00:20:31,830 --> 00:20:35,366 Tom Curren for me is the definition of surf. 234 00:20:35,401 --> 00:20:36,867 He lived in the Basque country 235 00:20:36,902 --> 00:20:39,203 but I remember watching him surf in Mundaka, 236 00:20:39,238 --> 00:20:40,971 and I remember his words, 237 00:20:41,007 --> 00:20:44,208 he was saying that Mundaka was the best wave in the world, you know. 238 00:20:45,811 --> 00:20:48,712 A lot of entrepreneurs in the Basque country historically, 239 00:20:48,747 --> 00:20:50,547 from Elcano to these times, you know-- 240 00:20:50,582 --> 00:20:52,249 Elcano, who made the world around tour 241 00:20:52,284 --> 00:20:55,219 to these times, you know, and I think it's not a casuality, you know. 242 00:20:55,254 --> 00:20:56,887 There's a lot of adventurer's, and... 243 00:20:56,922 --> 00:21:00,391 this is also adventure from the Basque people to the world, you know. 244 00:21:00,426 --> 00:21:02,293 [Kepa speaking in Basque] 245 00:21:06,665 --> 00:21:10,367 I would talk about, Natxo. A Basque, strong personality, 246 00:21:10,402 --> 00:21:12,369 optimistic dreamer, you know. 247 00:21:12,404 --> 00:21:15,139 This kid has got something special in him. 248 00:21:15,174 --> 00:21:17,308 A great surfer, and a great person too. 249 00:21:17,343 --> 00:21:19,443 [drums beating] 250 00:21:31,590 --> 00:21:33,791 [drums beating] 251 00:21:51,777 --> 00:21:54,312 [drums beating] 252 00:22:03,956 --> 00:22:05,723 [birds chirping] 253 00:22:05,758 --> 00:22:08,693 [ship horn blaring] 254 00:22:13,665 --> 00:22:14,965 [phone beeps] 255 00:22:16,368 --> 00:22:17,835 [phone beeps] 256 00:22:19,371 --> 00:22:21,972 [speaking in Basque] 257 00:22:30,249 --> 00:22:31,816 [engine revving] 258 00:22:33,786 --> 00:22:36,020 [contemporary instrumental music playing] 259 00:22:49,001 --> 00:22:50,935 [music continues] 260 00:23:12,157 --> 00:23:13,657 [music continues] 261 00:23:30,042 --> 00:23:31,742 I'm Thomas Meyerhoffer. 262 00:23:31,777 --> 00:23:33,143 And I'm from Sweden. 263 00:23:33,178 --> 00:23:36,013 Been surfing since 1982. 264 00:23:36,048 --> 00:23:39,016 I windsurfed, but for us windsurfing in the waves 265 00:23:39,051 --> 00:23:41,785 were as close as you could come to surfing at that point. 266 00:23:41,820 --> 00:23:45,322 Today, there's people surfing everywhere in Sweden. 267 00:23:45,357 --> 00:23:49,026 Where we used to wind surf, same spots, same waves. 268 00:23:49,061 --> 00:23:52,763 All through my high school, I used to build windsurfing boards, 269 00:23:52,798 --> 00:23:53,964 and windsurf a lot. 270 00:23:53,999 --> 00:23:56,033 And then when I decided what I wanted to do, 271 00:23:56,068 --> 00:23:59,570 I had to go to design school and study car design and design, 272 00:23:59,605 --> 00:24:01,305 and there was no schools in Sweden. 273 00:24:01,340 --> 00:24:06,343 So I applied, and had to use my surf boards to get into the school. 274 00:24:09,348 --> 00:24:12,850 I got to go in the late '80s, surf the real waves. 275 00:24:12,885 --> 00:24:16,720 And after my studies at the Arts Center, 276 00:24:16,755 --> 00:24:20,457 I wanted to see if I could get a job at Porsche, in Germany. 277 00:24:20,492 --> 00:24:23,994 And got to work on the interior of the new Boxter. 278 00:24:24,029 --> 00:24:26,530 Even if I loved the work, it was difficult for me 279 00:24:26,565 --> 00:24:29,199 to stay in the deep forest of Germany, 280 00:24:29,234 --> 00:24:30,734 and I was longing for the ocean, 281 00:24:30,769 --> 00:24:31,935 to go surfing again. 282 00:24:31,970 --> 00:24:35,205 So, I packed my bags and I applied for a job, 283 00:24:35,240 --> 00:24:37,107 and I got many offers in California, 284 00:24:37,142 --> 00:24:39,510 and I decided to start working at IDEO. 285 00:24:39,545 --> 00:24:41,845 I worked there for about four years, did uh... 286 00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:42,980 many different designs. 287 00:24:43,015 --> 00:24:44,181 And then I got... 288 00:24:44,216 --> 00:24:46,717 a call one day from Apple, 289 00:24:46,752 --> 00:24:48,919 and I designed a computer called, eMate, 290 00:24:48,954 --> 00:24:52,022 which is the first translucent Apple computer. 291 00:24:52,057 --> 00:24:54,258 But I think at the certain time, there was like-- 292 00:24:54,293 --> 00:24:55,826 I had all these projects I wanted to do, 293 00:24:55,861 --> 00:24:59,396 and I decided I was going to set up my own studio. 294 00:25:00,132 --> 00:25:02,700 [instrumental music playing] 295 00:25:07,205 --> 00:25:10,407 I've had my studio now for 15 years, 296 00:25:10,442 --> 00:25:12,409 and done a lot of different projects. 297 00:25:12,444 --> 00:25:14,978 After Apple, I started to work for the sport industry. 298 00:25:15,013 --> 00:25:16,713 I designed the first... 299 00:25:16,748 --> 00:25:19,416 sort of wrap around ski goggle for Smith. 300 00:25:19,451 --> 00:25:22,352 I designed wind surfing sails for NeilPryde. 301 00:25:22,387 --> 00:25:25,255 And during this time I got more and more interested 302 00:25:25,290 --> 00:25:28,659 in going back and looking at the surf board again, 303 00:25:28,694 --> 00:25:31,428 and started to surf more and more. 304 00:25:31,463 --> 00:25:32,896 What I do as a designer is, 305 00:25:32,931 --> 00:25:35,666 is really trying to create objects which has meaning. 306 00:25:35,701 --> 00:25:38,669 A meaning which you experience intuitively. 307 00:25:38,704 --> 00:25:44,207 I was very curious if I could do something with the surfboards. 308 00:25:44,242 --> 00:25:46,143 So I used all these modern tools to do this, 309 00:25:46,178 --> 00:25:47,578 I use CAD a lot. 310 00:25:47,613 --> 00:25:49,479 All my boards are designed... 311 00:25:49,514 --> 00:25:51,882 in the computer very precisely. 312 00:25:52,618 --> 00:25:55,853 [drums beating] 313 00:26:01,226 --> 00:26:02,660 [music continues] 314 00:26:09,501 --> 00:26:11,067 The surfer's on... 315 00:26:11,103 --> 00:26:14,471 which have had bigger experiences, which are understanding 316 00:26:14,506 --> 00:26:16,673 the whole context of surfing, 317 00:26:16,708 --> 00:26:18,909 they're very open towards... 318 00:26:18,944 --> 00:26:22,846 my shapes, and my boards, and they understand what I'm trying to do, 319 00:26:22,881 --> 00:26:26,517 and they're also are open to experiencing them. 320 00:26:27,352 --> 00:26:30,220 [drums beating] 321 00:26:32,691 --> 00:26:34,592 [music continues] 322 00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:43,400 It's definitely a really different surfboard, 323 00:26:43,435 --> 00:26:46,003 and I'm not going to lie. I saw it, and I pretty much thought, 324 00:26:46,038 --> 00:26:48,739 there's no way in hell that thing was going to work. 325 00:26:48,774 --> 00:26:50,307 [guitar music playing] 326 00:26:50,342 --> 00:26:52,476 Say you do a cutback and you get a little bit set behind, 327 00:26:52,511 --> 00:26:55,679 then just hold that line and that thing just starts flying. 328 00:26:55,714 --> 00:26:59,817 It definitely opened my eyes, and kind of got me more inspired again. 329 00:27:03,121 --> 00:27:04,822 [guitar music playing] 330 00:27:12,864 --> 00:27:14,031 [music continues] 331 00:27:23,475 --> 00:27:25,776 It has really good values of a single fin 332 00:27:25,811 --> 00:27:28,378 which are speed and surfing out on a rail, 333 00:27:28,413 --> 00:27:31,114 but then at the same time, you can turn it on a dime, 334 00:27:31,149 --> 00:27:34,351 and it will just follow its line and spring right out of it. 335 00:27:34,386 --> 00:27:36,253 To me it has the best of both worlds. 336 00:27:36,288 --> 00:27:37,621 You almost feel like you can get rid of 337 00:27:37,656 --> 00:27:39,956 a lot of the bullshit that's in surfing. 338 00:27:39,991 --> 00:27:42,292 [guitar music playing] 339 00:27:47,666 --> 00:27:50,400 [Thomas] I surf because of the experience. 340 00:27:50,435 --> 00:27:52,402 [indistinct chattering] 341 00:27:52,437 --> 00:27:53,670 [Thomas] I like to surf... 342 00:27:53,705 --> 00:27:55,272 where there's not so many people. 343 00:27:55,307 --> 00:27:57,174 I got heckled alot. 344 00:27:57,209 --> 00:27:58,942 I got heckled on my local beach, 345 00:27:58,977 --> 00:28:00,444 I got heckled everywhere. 346 00:28:00,479 --> 00:28:04,047 My social context for the surfboard is not local, 347 00:28:04,082 --> 00:28:05,215 it's global. 348 00:28:05,250 --> 00:28:07,584 I'm inspired by nature in itself, just... 349 00:28:07,619 --> 00:28:10,253 kind of it's-- there's a certain simplicity in nature. 350 00:28:10,288 --> 00:28:14,758 I mean, things nowadays are getting more and more simple for me. 351 00:28:14,793 --> 00:28:18,562 So they might look more and more complex from the content, 352 00:28:18,597 --> 00:28:22,299 but, the form is telling more and more... 353 00:28:22,334 --> 00:28:25,402 the real story of the meaning of the product. 354 00:28:25,437 --> 00:28:29,840 The surfboard for me is an amazing piece to explore 355 00:28:29,875 --> 00:28:33,510 because of that. Because it bridges betweens culptural quality 356 00:28:33,545 --> 00:28:36,079 and the performance of the object, 357 00:28:36,114 --> 00:28:39,249 where certain parts of the boards... 358 00:28:39,284 --> 00:28:41,384 gives the user... 359 00:28:41,419 --> 00:28:43,420 a certain type of an experience 360 00:28:43,455 --> 00:28:45,856 in different situations on the wave. 361 00:28:46,558 --> 00:28:48,358 [mellow music playing] 362 00:28:51,229 --> 00:28:52,796 [music continues] 363 00:28:57,836 --> 00:28:59,570 [music continues] 364 00:29:05,911 --> 00:29:08,312 [music continues] 365 00:29:12,417 --> 00:29:14,418 [guitar music playing] 366 00:29:37,342 --> 00:29:39,343 [music continues] 367 00:29:47,886 --> 00:29:50,453 [Josh] I grew up with my-- surfing with my dad. 368 00:29:50,488 --> 00:29:52,889 And my dad, he came from the single fin era, 369 00:29:52,924 --> 00:29:54,491 and then jumped to the twin fin era. 370 00:29:54,526 --> 00:29:56,493 And then, you know, riding thrusters now, and... 371 00:29:56,528 --> 00:29:58,228 he loves riding big waves too. 372 00:29:58,263 --> 00:30:00,130 And so for me surfing with him growing up, 373 00:30:00,165 --> 00:30:01,464 it was pretty much throw. 374 00:30:01,499 --> 00:30:03,733 every single board that we have in the truck, 375 00:30:03,768 --> 00:30:06,570 and you go down to the beach and you're going surfing. 376 00:30:25,357 --> 00:30:28,959 Simmons is the one that said, "Surfboards are hydrodynamic planing hulls." 377 00:30:28,994 --> 00:30:31,094 That's what they are. They're not paddle boards, 378 00:30:31,129 --> 00:30:32,262 they are machines. 379 00:30:32,297 --> 00:30:35,365 Chasing down information for 12 years, 380 00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:36,433 for hydrodynamic- 381 00:30:36,468 --> 00:30:38,401 got the unfinished documentary. 382 00:30:38,436 --> 00:30:41,538 I learned where a lot of boards were. 383 00:30:41,573 --> 00:30:43,206 Very unique boards. 384 00:30:43,241 --> 00:30:46,476 I got to know the people that own them. 385 00:30:46,511 --> 00:30:51,915 Done some art gallery independent stuff in San Diego in spaces, etc., 386 00:30:51,950 --> 00:30:53,316 working with a lot of artists. 387 00:30:53,351 --> 00:30:55,352 For some reason that was something I like to do. 388 00:30:55,387 --> 00:30:56,620 I have a passion about it. 389 00:30:56,655 --> 00:30:59,422 Take a place that's just a mess, 390 00:30:59,457 --> 00:31:02,225 and take an idea of exhibiting something, 391 00:31:02,260 --> 00:31:06,029 and then spending the time and going through the whole process... 392 00:31:06,064 --> 00:31:09,132 to where it finally on the day right before it opens, 393 00:31:09,167 --> 00:31:11,902 usually it all comes together. 394 00:31:12,370 --> 00:31:14,404 [drums beating] 395 00:31:25,884 --> 00:31:27,551 [music continues] 396 00:31:50,775 --> 00:31:52,476 [drum beats continue] 397 00:31:59,684 --> 00:32:00,850 [Richard] And there it is. 398 00:32:00,885 --> 00:32:03,453 It's like this cutting... some kind of... 399 00:32:03,488 --> 00:32:06,690 rough stone, and making it end, in like a jewel. 400 00:32:06,725 --> 00:32:08,558 It takes a lot of people to do that. 401 00:32:08,593 --> 00:32:09,960 It's like a sort of a team. 402 00:32:09,995 --> 00:32:13,229 So, when I had the opportunity to do it with boards 403 00:32:13,264 --> 00:32:17,968 that were related to Hydrodynamica, it appealed to me to make that happen. 404 00:32:20,905 --> 00:32:22,706 [drums beating] 405 00:32:31,783 --> 00:32:33,350 [guitar music playing] 406 00:32:35,487 --> 00:32:40,590 [Richard] This show starts with a 1949 George Downing finless Hot Curl. 407 00:32:40,625 --> 00:32:43,393 We've got Bob Simmons, and Terry Hendricks... 408 00:32:43,428 --> 00:32:45,195 two mathematicians, 409 00:32:45,230 --> 00:32:46,596 brilliant guys. 410 00:32:46,631 --> 00:32:49,532 Terry's making spoon shells, and eboards, and planing hulls. 411 00:32:49,567 --> 00:32:51,801 And then you've got George Greenough over there. 412 00:32:51,836 --> 00:32:53,937 And then Steve Lis Fish is on the wall. 413 00:32:53,972 --> 00:32:59,242 And there's a very strong relationship between all of those boards. 414 00:32:59,277 --> 00:33:01,845 And they're all outside the normal realm. 415 00:33:01,880 --> 00:33:04,447 When you see them all together, then behind them 416 00:33:04,482 --> 00:33:07,384 you've got on a wall, the whole IPS series. 417 00:33:07,419 --> 00:33:09,019 Aipa's "Sting", 418 00:33:09,054 --> 00:33:11,054 MR Twin, 419 00:33:11,089 --> 00:33:13,056 Geoff McCoys "Lazor Zap", 420 00:33:13,091 --> 00:33:14,591 Simon's "Thruster". 421 00:33:14,626 --> 00:33:17,394 A lot of the elements that are in all those IPS boards, 422 00:33:17,429 --> 00:33:19,029 from the late seventies and the early eighties, 423 00:33:19,064 --> 00:33:21,765 really, the source of them comes from all those other boards. 424 00:33:21,800 --> 00:33:24,501 Simmons, which guys that are working their boards out 425 00:33:24,536 --> 00:33:26,403 with mathematical equations. 426 00:33:26,438 --> 00:33:28,471 That all looks very similar. 427 00:33:28,506 --> 00:33:30,006 They look counter intuitive. 428 00:33:30,041 --> 00:33:32,375 They're not pointy, you know. 429 00:33:32,410 --> 00:33:34,277 They're all sort of in this family. 430 00:33:34,312 --> 00:33:39,015 You see relationships between certain things and other things, you know. 431 00:33:39,050 --> 00:33:41,785 If you're tracing it all back in the modern era, 432 00:33:41,820 --> 00:33:44,621 you'll go back to the "Hot Curl" in Downing, 433 00:33:44,656 --> 00:33:46,222 and Simmons in the pointing hull. 434 00:33:46,257 --> 00:33:50,727 And those are the things that end up being to greater or lesser degrees 435 00:33:50,762 --> 00:33:54,130 in your small waves boards, and in your big wave boards. 436 00:33:54,165 --> 00:33:56,099 And right now the trend is... 437 00:33:56,134 --> 00:33:57,767 is sort of a... 438 00:33:57,802 --> 00:34:00,537 Uh, like, "Well, maybe we were stuck on... 439 00:34:00,572 --> 00:34:04,707 the skinny hot curl idea for a little too long, 440 00:34:04,742 --> 00:34:08,044 and we need to go this other direction and find the optimum." 441 00:34:08,079 --> 00:34:09,979 And I think that's what's happening. 442 00:34:10,014 --> 00:34:11,614 Everytime I see it I'm like, 443 00:34:11,649 --> 00:34:13,817 "Okay, there's this much of Hot Curl influence in this sport, 444 00:34:13,852 --> 00:34:15,752 and there's this much of Simmons." 445 00:34:16,955 --> 00:34:18,588 [instrumental music playing] 446 00:34:21,860 --> 00:34:23,727 [waves splashing] 447 00:34:31,836 --> 00:34:33,670 [door creaking] 448 00:34:33,705 --> 00:34:34,738 [horn tooting] 449 00:34:39,010 --> 00:34:42,045 [song playing on radio] 450 00:34:44,749 --> 00:34:46,616 [chattering] 451 00:34:46,651 --> 00:34:48,418 -[man] Yeah. -[Darryl] And then look at it. 452 00:34:49,120 --> 00:34:50,554 [drilling sounds] 453 00:34:54,092 --> 00:34:55,925 Wow. 454 00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:58,628 I was goofying at Cowells and then I was like... 455 00:34:58,663 --> 00:35:00,130 As I was growing up I was like, 456 00:35:00,165 --> 00:35:03,066 I want to re-regulate... Look at this, so many rights around here. 457 00:35:03,101 --> 00:35:04,234 So I just started surfing regular... 458 00:35:04,269 --> 00:35:05,235 [man] Oh, you did? 459 00:35:05,270 --> 00:35:06,402 -[Darryl] Yeah. -[man] Good. 460 00:35:06,437 --> 00:35:08,104 'Cause I skate Goofy foot. 461 00:35:08,139 --> 00:35:09,672 So I was... 462 00:35:09,707 --> 00:35:11,041 Could have been in that, yeah. 463 00:35:11,676 --> 00:35:12,676 [laughs] 464 00:35:13,711 --> 00:35:15,312 [drilling noise] 465 00:35:19,951 --> 00:35:21,951 Flea and Troy Virostko 466 00:35:21,986 --> 00:35:24,187 started to ride my boards when they were little kids. 467 00:35:24,222 --> 00:35:26,756 Their dad, Steve, was an absolute ripper. 468 00:35:26,791 --> 00:35:29,159 One of the good old boys, one of the red hot guys. 469 00:35:29,194 --> 00:35:31,394 Troy and Darryl, they're brothers. 470 00:35:31,429 --> 00:35:33,096 They absolutely loved each other. 471 00:35:33,131 --> 00:35:35,565 [Darryl] I started surfing when I was four years old. 472 00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:38,702 My dad brought me down to Cowells and helped me surf. 473 00:35:40,371 --> 00:35:42,872 Growing up in Santa Cruz was the best thing ever. 474 00:35:42,907 --> 00:35:46,476 Being a kid, and living blocks from the perfect surf spot. 475 00:35:46,511 --> 00:35:48,244 Barney came into the scene. 476 00:35:48,279 --> 00:35:52,782 I think I was in fourth grade at Bayview. Barney moved here from Kalinga. 477 00:35:52,817 --> 00:35:54,584 Troy and Barney became friends first 478 00:35:54,619 --> 00:35:56,653 because I think they were in the same class. 479 00:35:56,688 --> 00:35:58,388 You know, I was just always... 480 00:35:58,890 --> 00:36:00,323 hanging around. 481 00:36:00,358 --> 00:36:02,292 Barney and Flea got really close. 482 00:36:02,327 --> 00:36:03,326 Really close. 483 00:36:03,361 --> 00:36:04,561 A lot of love for each other. 484 00:36:04,596 --> 00:36:06,396 A real strong relationship. 485 00:36:06,431 --> 00:36:09,699 You know, they say the best surfer is the guy that has most fun. 486 00:36:09,734 --> 00:36:11,267 Flat out, Barney was the best surfer. 487 00:36:11,302 --> 00:36:14,404 [Darryl] Barney went to Puerto Escondido and got on the cover. 488 00:36:14,439 --> 00:36:16,539 So, like, limelight was just like... 489 00:36:16,574 --> 00:36:18,608 kind of focused towards Santa Cruz, you know. 490 00:36:18,643 --> 00:36:20,910 I think I was making like 300 bucks a month or something. 491 00:36:20,945 --> 00:36:23,980 It got just crazy after that, all of things that we were doing. 492 00:36:24,015 --> 00:36:27,784 Getting shots in the magazine, the whole Air Revolution just started blowing up. 493 00:36:28,987 --> 00:36:31,921 [Zach] There's people that still don't like Darryl 494 00:36:31,956 --> 00:36:34,390 for the person he was during all those years. 495 00:36:34,425 --> 00:36:35,959 I mean, he was an asshole, straight up. 496 00:36:35,994 --> 00:36:40,063 If you were not in the click in anyway, 497 00:36:40,098 --> 00:36:43,266 you were going to hear it or feel it in some crappy way, 498 00:36:43,301 --> 00:36:46,236 even though you really might not have been guilty of any thing at all. 499 00:36:46,271 --> 00:36:49,205 He was just basically like localism, whatever you wanna call it. 500 00:36:49,240 --> 00:36:52,208 [Wesley] The first time I met Flea was at Steamer Lane. 501 00:36:52,243 --> 00:36:55,545 I just moved up here from Southern California for college. 502 00:36:55,580 --> 00:36:57,513 So, I decided to paddle out. 503 00:36:57,548 --> 00:37:01,017 Flea and a couple of other guys were out, and a slot wave came to me and, 504 00:37:01,052 --> 00:37:03,353 I'm going down the line and here comes Flea, 505 00:37:03,388 --> 00:37:04,721 paddling up the shoulder, 506 00:37:04,756 --> 00:37:07,790 I ended up just basically ramming right into him. 507 00:37:07,825 --> 00:37:09,659 I ended up getting surrounded by everybody, 508 00:37:09,694 --> 00:37:11,928 and they chased me out of the water. 509 00:37:11,963 --> 00:37:15,465 And, I didn't go back for, I don't know, at least a year. 510 00:37:16,267 --> 00:37:17,300 Maybe two. 511 00:37:17,335 --> 00:37:19,636 [Zach] Within the logic of his mind, 512 00:37:19,671 --> 00:37:22,338 he was being respectful to the higher ups, 513 00:37:22,373 --> 00:37:25,041 and all of the surfing history, 514 00:37:25,076 --> 00:37:26,409 and culture. 515 00:37:26,444 --> 00:37:27,944 Especially anything related to Hawaii. 516 00:37:27,979 --> 00:37:30,880 He always had the highest possible regard, 517 00:37:30,915 --> 00:37:34,851 and Richard Schmidt, and Vince Collier. 518 00:37:34,886 --> 00:37:37,553 [Darryl] I surfed Mavericks first time, '91. 519 00:37:37,588 --> 00:37:39,122 It was just one of those afternoons, 520 00:37:39,157 --> 00:37:41,190 we were talking to Vince in his shaping room and he's like, 521 00:37:41,225 --> 00:37:43,626 "What, look at the buoys, it's on. Let's go." 522 00:37:43,661 --> 00:37:45,127 And he was like, "Let's do it." 523 00:37:45,163 --> 00:37:47,063 He cut in the corner after getting through the breakwater. 524 00:37:47,098 --> 00:37:50,433 We were like, "What!" We couldn't believe we were seeing waves like this. 525 00:37:50,468 --> 00:37:52,302 It was pretty intense, you know, and just... 526 00:37:52,337 --> 00:37:53,737 I just remember that first session. 527 00:37:53,772 --> 00:37:55,905 And it was just crazy, you know. It was this crazy day. 528 00:37:55,940 --> 00:37:58,241 All of a sudden we get a photo at Mavericks 529 00:37:58,276 --> 00:38:00,610 on this huge wave, and the guys are like, "Whoa!" 530 00:38:00,645 --> 00:38:02,178 Look at this neat little deal. 531 00:38:02,213 --> 00:38:03,946 These guys are the locals up here, we should get on this. 532 00:38:03,981 --> 00:38:05,815 So we were going both sides, you know. 533 00:38:05,850 --> 00:38:06,816 We had the airgame. 534 00:38:06,851 --> 00:38:08,418 The two foot Steamer Lane just-- 535 00:38:08,453 --> 00:38:10,953 Aircrew everytime we surfed, like, ten of us. 536 00:38:10,988 --> 00:38:14,123 And then we had Mavericks too, so it was just like really helpful for us. 537 00:38:14,158 --> 00:38:17,260 I was just feeling crazy, you know, and not scared at all. 538 00:38:17,295 --> 00:38:18,528 I didn't really care if I died. 539 00:38:18,563 --> 00:38:20,463 It was a weird kind of feeling. 540 00:38:20,498 --> 00:38:24,133 Now that I've actually cared so much about my life. 541 00:38:24,168 --> 00:38:26,869 Having that feeling before, you know, was pretty intense. 542 00:38:26,904 --> 00:38:31,507 It was just like, I felt so like... I was surfing every single day, all day. 543 00:38:31,542 --> 00:38:32,709 That's all I was doing. 544 00:38:32,744 --> 00:38:34,977 Surfing the lane all day every single day. 545 00:38:35,012 --> 00:38:37,814 So I was in the best paddling shape, best physical shape, 546 00:38:37,849 --> 00:38:40,083 so I felt really, really, comfortable in the water. 547 00:38:40,118 --> 00:38:41,617 And especially out there. 548 00:38:41,652 --> 00:38:44,754 I got this little sparkle in my eye thinking back about 549 00:38:44,789 --> 00:38:48,091 all those guys when they were growing up, you know. 550 00:38:48,126 --> 00:38:50,893 'Cause I guess Renee and I got to watch them all pretty much grow up. 551 00:38:50,928 --> 00:38:52,495 'Cause they grew up with our kids. 552 00:38:52,530 --> 00:38:55,665 Flea was always very unique. 553 00:38:55,700 --> 00:38:57,300 He was going to do it his way. 554 00:38:57,335 --> 00:38:58,968 It didn't matter what the rules were, 555 00:38:59,003 --> 00:39:00,670 or what was normal, or this or that. 556 00:39:00,705 --> 00:39:01,904 There was the Flea way. 557 00:39:01,939 --> 00:39:03,672 And that was pretty cool. 558 00:39:03,708 --> 00:39:06,642 You know, it took him a really, really long way and it got him to... 559 00:39:06,677 --> 00:39:08,511 got him to the peak. Got him to the pinnacle. 560 00:39:08,546 --> 00:39:10,513 I'd say that in the early nineties, you know, 561 00:39:10,548 --> 00:39:12,281 some of those Westside guys, 562 00:39:12,316 --> 00:39:13,449 Flea included, 563 00:39:13,484 --> 00:39:15,685 they were the tip of the spear for 564 00:39:15,720 --> 00:39:18,454 paddling, big wave surfing, and tow-in big wave surfing. 565 00:39:18,489 --> 00:39:20,757 There was no script to follow or anything. 566 00:39:22,093 --> 00:39:25,228 [Darryl] When you win $15,000 for winning a... 567 00:39:25,263 --> 00:39:27,163 a Maverick contest, it feels pretty good. 568 00:39:27,198 --> 00:39:29,399 Slater was in that second year of contest 569 00:39:29,434 --> 00:39:31,134 and that was kind of a big deal for everybody. 570 00:39:31,169 --> 00:39:33,403 That was definitely the biggest, biggest win of my life. 571 00:39:33,438 --> 00:39:35,538 It was cool because I beat him in every heat. 572 00:39:35,573 --> 00:39:38,107 You know, I think he was in every single heat of mine. 573 00:39:38,142 --> 00:39:39,942 There was no confusion. 574 00:39:39,977 --> 00:39:42,612 Third time it was just like, I was losing, you know. 575 00:39:42,647 --> 00:39:45,515 I think I just needed a wave and then I got that wave 576 00:39:45,550 --> 00:39:47,383 in last five minutes. 577 00:39:47,418 --> 00:39:49,419 [Zach] He liked big waves, he charged big waves, 578 00:39:49,454 --> 00:39:51,321 he was passionate about big waves. 579 00:39:51,356 --> 00:39:54,190 And he found himself in a position to go, "Okay, this is pretty damn intense. 580 00:39:54,225 --> 00:39:55,258 I like this." 581 00:39:55,293 --> 00:39:57,527 And he had the ability to pull it off, 582 00:39:57,562 --> 00:39:58,961 to take the late take offs. 583 00:39:58,996 --> 00:40:01,197 He had the ability to get his ass held out of the water, 584 00:40:01,232 --> 00:40:02,432 and rolled around, 585 00:40:02,467 --> 00:40:03,666 and spun, and dizzy. 586 00:40:03,701 --> 00:40:04,834 Let's go get another one. 587 00:40:04,869 --> 00:40:07,637 So much attention kind of drawn towards myself. 588 00:40:07,672 --> 00:40:10,606 Sponsors want me to travel, all the trade shows, 589 00:40:10,641 --> 00:40:13,109 drinking, and so much heavy stuff going on. 590 00:40:13,144 --> 00:40:16,078 Things got crazy. This money was just no object. 591 00:40:16,113 --> 00:40:17,713 And close to twelve grand a month. 592 00:40:17,748 --> 00:40:19,582 So I was like, let's go, you guys want to go. 593 00:40:19,617 --> 00:40:21,451 Let's go to Vegas for a week. 594 00:40:21,486 --> 00:40:23,920 [Zach] Darryl's Mavericks years were all just wild. 595 00:40:23,955 --> 00:40:25,421 Booze, Valiums, 596 00:40:25,456 --> 00:40:28,458 but in the more sober stages of all those moments, 597 00:40:28,493 --> 00:40:30,026 just crushing raw talent. 598 00:40:30,061 --> 00:40:32,528 He was just so much raw talent surfing, 599 00:40:32,563 --> 00:40:34,363 It's like he couldn't help but be good. 600 00:40:34,398 --> 00:40:36,899 He wasn't no paddling, or doing push-ups, 601 00:40:36,934 --> 00:40:39,168 or you know, thinking about his diet. 602 00:40:39,203 --> 00:40:40,503 [Darryl] It was heavy back then. 603 00:40:40,538 --> 00:40:43,272 All the older guys that were doing crazy stuff. 604 00:40:43,307 --> 00:40:47,510 A lot of cocaine, and weed, it was kind of gnarly back then. 605 00:40:47,545 --> 00:40:50,480 You kind of look up to maybe sometimes the wrong people. 606 00:40:50,515 --> 00:40:53,883 When I won my last title in 2004, 607 00:40:53,918 --> 00:40:55,551 everyone wants to be your friend, 608 00:40:55,586 --> 00:41:00,823 there's chicks, you got a house, hot tubs, '65 ragtop Impala. 609 00:41:00,858 --> 00:41:02,758 Plenty-- it was these crazy times. 610 00:41:02,793 --> 00:41:06,929 [Nat] I always kind of saw him as kind of this rockstar type surfer guy on the west side. 611 00:41:06,964 --> 00:41:09,131 He drove around, like, a low rider like Cadillac. 612 00:41:09,166 --> 00:41:12,568 I'm like... I think he had like hydraulics and stuff. 613 00:41:12,603 --> 00:41:14,837 [Darryl] When you stop thinking about what's important 614 00:41:14,872 --> 00:41:17,473 and why and how you got to a place that... 615 00:41:17,508 --> 00:41:19,208 that you worked so hard to get to, 616 00:41:19,243 --> 00:41:22,512 from surfing and putting in all that water time and this and that, 617 00:41:22,547 --> 00:41:25,081 and getting these sponsors and doing the right thing. 618 00:41:26,584 --> 00:41:29,585 We got introduced to... first it was cocaine, you know. 619 00:41:29,620 --> 00:41:31,988 Then all of a sudden, like, one night or whatever, 620 00:41:32,023 --> 00:41:33,422 meth, you know, came about. 621 00:41:33,457 --> 00:41:34,991 "Here, try a hit of this," you know. 622 00:41:35,026 --> 00:41:37,860 And when I started smoking meth I liked how it made me feel, 623 00:41:37,895 --> 00:41:40,863 and I just got totally addicted to it, you know. 624 00:41:40,898 --> 00:41:42,698 And I needed it every single day. 625 00:41:42,733 --> 00:41:45,735 And that's what scared me 'cause I'd never had that feeling before. 626 00:41:45,770 --> 00:41:50,139 There was a pretty noticeable point where it stopped working. 627 00:41:50,174 --> 00:41:52,775 Heat, for a Mavericks contest, and he's just nowhere to be seen in this. 628 00:41:52,810 --> 00:41:55,344 His heat's in five minutes, he's not in the water anywhere. 629 00:41:55,379 --> 00:41:56,946 Everyone's in the water. He's not there. 630 00:41:56,981 --> 00:42:00,149 A jet-ski comes out pulling a little tiny rowboat, 631 00:42:00,184 --> 00:42:01,250 and he's in it. 632 00:42:01,285 --> 00:42:04,053 No fins, no wax, nothing. 633 00:42:04,088 --> 00:42:05,588 The heat starts... 634 00:42:05,623 --> 00:42:06,923 and he's looking for wax. 635 00:42:06,958 --> 00:42:10,393 And just raging so hard the night before, 636 00:42:10,428 --> 00:42:12,728 that the only way to hit the brakes on that, 637 00:42:12,763 --> 00:42:14,697 and even have a chance at making the event 638 00:42:14,732 --> 00:42:17,033 is just start hitting so many valiums, 639 00:42:17,068 --> 00:42:20,603 that now this person's like so asleep in the lineup. 640 00:42:20,638 --> 00:42:23,039 I think I was in this heat with him, for I was like, 641 00:42:23,074 --> 00:42:25,875 "Cool, I got a better chance of making it out of this heat." 642 00:42:25,910 --> 00:42:28,711 When Flea was, like, really at the bottom of that downhill slide, 643 00:42:28,746 --> 00:42:30,746 when he fell off the cliff up in the North coast, 644 00:42:30,781 --> 00:42:32,982 I think his world was just really intense. 645 00:42:33,017 --> 00:42:34,684 [Darryl] And I broke my arm, 646 00:42:34,719 --> 00:42:37,587 like, double compound fracture. 647 00:42:37,622 --> 00:42:39,622 I had cuts all over my whole head, 648 00:42:39,657 --> 00:42:42,358 stitches all over my whole head, face... 649 00:42:42,393 --> 00:42:44,860 I got medevaced over the hill, 650 00:42:44,895 --> 00:42:48,531 'cause, you know, I came close to dying, and... 651 00:42:48,566 --> 00:42:50,099 that still wasn't enough, you know. 652 00:42:50,134 --> 00:42:51,467 That's what's crazy about meth. 653 00:42:51,502 --> 00:42:53,369 I couldn't surf, so I was like, "I can't surf! 654 00:42:53,404 --> 00:42:55,905 Fuck, I might as well fucking get high." 655 00:42:55,940 --> 00:42:59,375 [Zach] After he got out of the hospital, I mean, he just looked so bad. 656 00:42:59,410 --> 00:43:01,444 He comes out into the middle of the street, 657 00:43:01,479 --> 00:43:04,647 and he's just so emaciated. 658 00:43:04,682 --> 00:43:08,317 And he just looked like, literally like beef jerky wrapped around a skeleton. 659 00:43:08,352 --> 00:43:11,687 [Darryl] My dad, and my aunts, and my brother, 660 00:43:11,722 --> 00:43:13,723 and Richard Schmidt, and a couple of guys, 661 00:43:13,758 --> 00:43:16,926 older boys and said, we want you to go to this place called the Beacon house. 662 00:43:16,961 --> 00:43:21,831 I got in my truck with my girlfriend, my now wife, and... 663 00:43:21,866 --> 00:43:24,000 checked myself in and that was it. 664 00:43:24,035 --> 00:43:27,436 [Steve] Wow! That was the consequence chapter, I guess. 665 00:43:27,471 --> 00:43:30,239 Our son went down a similar road in the same time. 666 00:43:30,274 --> 00:43:32,441 And next chapter is recovery. 667 00:43:32,476 --> 00:43:35,444 And I'll tell you, something really sweet happened once upon a time, 668 00:43:35,479 --> 00:43:38,247 I mean, word filtered back to us in our family 669 00:43:38,282 --> 00:43:42,752 that Flea was sobering up and that was really righteous. 670 00:43:42,787 --> 00:43:47,390 And Renee, my wife, ran into Flea one day at the lane, 671 00:43:47,425 --> 00:43:51,293 and seeing the two of them hug brings a tear to my eye right now. [laughs] 672 00:43:51,328 --> 00:43:55,064 'Cause I knew we had somebody who came back from the other side. 673 00:43:55,099 --> 00:43:57,800 And I know how hard it is to come back from the other side, 674 00:43:57,835 --> 00:44:00,269 because I've got loved ones who haven't made it back yet, 675 00:44:00,304 --> 00:44:01,771 or maybe never will. 676 00:44:01,806 --> 00:44:03,506 [Zach] Ninety percent of the people, they don't come back 677 00:44:03,541 --> 00:44:04,707 from being that far gone, 678 00:44:04,742 --> 00:44:07,243 but I think that because of Flea, 679 00:44:07,278 --> 00:44:09,879 his personality is like, it's ingrained in him, 680 00:44:09,914 --> 00:44:13,282 when he just sets his mind, like, "I'm just going to do this!" 681 00:44:13,317 --> 00:44:14,850 He's just going to do it. 682 00:44:14,885 --> 00:44:17,453 [Darryl] When I came back from rehab to my house to clean up, 683 00:44:17,488 --> 00:44:18,521 and like figure it out, 684 00:44:18,556 --> 00:44:20,122 I was like, "Holy shit!" 685 00:44:20,157 --> 00:44:22,024 Seeing how different it was, 686 00:44:22,059 --> 00:44:25,127 How could someone's mind go out so far that way? 687 00:44:25,162 --> 00:44:27,730 Straight over to Barney's, like, 'Barney, what are you doing?" 688 00:44:27,765 --> 00:44:29,365 He kind of cut it out a little bit. 689 00:44:29,400 --> 00:44:31,133 I was completely done. 690 00:44:31,169 --> 00:44:33,202 Barney, he's an artist, so he could do whatever he wants sometimes. 691 00:44:33,237 --> 00:44:35,571 That's why he would, like, tell me, you know. He was like, 692 00:44:35,606 --> 00:44:38,040 "I need to expand my mind sometimes cause I'm an artist." 693 00:44:38,075 --> 00:44:40,209 When I work at Fleahab, and stuff like that, 694 00:44:40,244 --> 00:44:42,311 and I help these people, like, it's just so amazing, 695 00:44:42,346 --> 00:44:45,915 because you watch someone come in, completely broken, 696 00:44:45,950 --> 00:44:50,052 to see them actually bud again, and become this beautiful flower again, 697 00:44:50,087 --> 00:44:51,420 it's just crazy! 698 00:44:51,455 --> 00:44:53,556 And the things that they're doing in their lives now, 699 00:44:53,591 --> 00:44:54,890 you were a part of that, 700 00:44:54,925 --> 00:44:56,659 it's like the best feeling in the world, and... 701 00:44:56,694 --> 00:44:58,427 We all need to help people in life. 702 00:44:58,462 --> 00:44:59,895 It's an amazing thing. 703 00:44:59,930 --> 00:45:01,630 It's amazing what Flea is doing now these days, 704 00:45:01,665 --> 00:45:04,533 because, it is part of rehabilitation and getting better. 705 00:45:04,568 --> 00:45:08,070 Giving back what you've learned is instrumental in keeping yourself 706 00:45:08,105 --> 00:45:10,272 on the right track, and you're helping others. 707 00:45:10,307 --> 00:45:13,642 Even during his years of abuse he's always had the biggest heart. 708 00:45:13,677 --> 00:45:16,479 He'd see something that he knew that his friend at home liked, 709 00:45:16,514 --> 00:45:19,248 whether it be a piece of drift wood that was shaped like something, 710 00:45:19,283 --> 00:45:21,751 or a rock, or a shell, and give them as a present. 711 00:45:21,786 --> 00:45:23,219 He's always been an awesome guy, 712 00:45:23,254 --> 00:45:25,454 as far as doing stuff for the community. 713 00:45:25,489 --> 00:45:26,856 I remember, like, he always used to go down 714 00:45:26,891 --> 00:45:29,325 to Mitchells and Barbecue for the homeless people. 715 00:45:29,360 --> 00:45:32,194 [Darryl] For me, like, having kids was the best thing in the world. 716 00:45:32,229 --> 00:45:33,429 Having a beautiful wife, 717 00:45:33,464 --> 00:45:35,631 that supported me through all my hard times 718 00:45:35,666 --> 00:45:37,566 was the best thing ever. You know, that's... 719 00:45:37,601 --> 00:45:40,336 She's a strong woman to put up with all my bullshit, 720 00:45:40,371 --> 00:45:42,438 and actually stick with me, and... 721 00:45:42,473 --> 00:45:44,073 come to where we are now. 722 00:45:44,108 --> 00:45:46,509 To have these beautiful children is so amazing. 723 00:45:46,544 --> 00:45:49,945 And to make something, as a child, it's so cool. 724 00:45:49,980 --> 00:45:52,581 It's so amazing that we can do this, you know. 725 00:45:52,616 --> 00:45:54,416 So when I had my first daughter, Lily, 726 00:45:54,451 --> 00:45:58,120 I just fell in love harder than I've ever fallen in love with anything. 727 00:45:58,155 --> 00:45:59,522 And my other daughter, Rita, too. 728 00:45:59,557 --> 00:46:02,191 It's like, I have so much love for these two little people. 729 00:46:02,226 --> 00:46:05,027 Making it out on the other end, and having kids, and... 730 00:46:05,062 --> 00:46:08,164 starting to take care of your life, and go the right direction in your life, 731 00:46:08,199 --> 00:46:11,600 is super fun, and I wouldn't trade it for the world. 732 00:46:11,635 --> 00:46:13,669 Surfing is fun these days, you know. 733 00:46:13,704 --> 00:46:15,905 And I don't have to go out there and surf, and, like... 734 00:46:15,940 --> 00:46:18,607 think that I got to surf better than these groms, cause I can't. 735 00:46:18,642 --> 00:46:20,109 These kids are ripping. 736 00:46:20,144 --> 00:46:22,444 I'm so glad that I'm there in my life, 737 00:46:22,479 --> 00:46:24,446 to where it's more of just a fun thing, 738 00:46:24,481 --> 00:46:28,884 and I can see them ripping, and feel their stoke, and stuff like that. 739 00:46:28,919 --> 00:46:32,221 It's really fun just going out and just having a good time. 740 00:46:32,256 --> 00:46:33,956 [instrumental music playing] 741 00:46:48,305 --> 00:46:52,074 [Zach] Darryl changed his course so much that it's like... 742 00:46:52,109 --> 00:46:55,277 you know, somebody who's had a lot of life experience. 743 00:46:55,312 --> 00:46:58,647 Like stories most people never get to in their life. 744 00:46:58,682 --> 00:47:00,182 Now he's kinda like... 745 00:47:00,217 --> 00:47:01,817 that grom, again. 746 00:47:01,852 --> 00:47:04,954 Almost like the inspired innocent way. Like he's just stoked. 747 00:47:04,989 --> 00:47:08,090 He never even had the chance to have that good way, 748 00:47:08,125 --> 00:47:11,193 which almost makes who he is today more remarkable. 749 00:47:11,228 --> 00:47:14,363 It's not like he's going back to something he knew before. 750 00:47:14,398 --> 00:47:16,832 Like, he's eking this out from scratch. 751 00:47:16,867 --> 00:47:19,869 Then, maybe that's why he's just so sincere and honest 752 00:47:19,904 --> 00:47:21,470 'cause it's just fresh and real. 753 00:47:21,506 --> 00:47:24,841 He's getting all of those experiences for the first time. 754 00:47:27,411 --> 00:47:28,878 Barney's death... 755 00:47:29,313 --> 00:47:30,279 Man... 756 00:47:30,314 --> 00:47:31,614 that sucks. 757 00:47:31,649 --> 00:47:33,282 It affects me a lot because it's, like, 758 00:47:33,317 --> 00:47:34,984 he's my best friend, you know. 759 00:47:35,019 --> 00:47:38,053 And, just seeing him gone, it's just... It's just weird to me. 760 00:47:38,088 --> 00:47:39,755 You take things for granted. 761 00:47:39,790 --> 00:47:43,959 And with Barney I couldn't really hang out with him as much as I wanted to, you know. 762 00:47:43,994 --> 00:47:46,028 Barney had a hard time listening to me. 763 00:47:46,063 --> 00:47:48,464 I was "Little General" to him. That's what he called me. 764 00:47:48,499 --> 00:47:50,232 Everytime we were out going on a trip anywhere, 765 00:47:50,267 --> 00:47:52,801 I was like, "Barney, got your passport?" "Barney, let's go." 766 00:47:52,836 --> 00:47:55,804 I was at his house a hour and a half early every single time. 767 00:47:55,839 --> 00:47:58,274 So I was always on him. He would never, like, 768 00:47:58,309 --> 00:48:01,076 agree with me. So, I kind of gave up a little bit. 769 00:48:01,111 --> 00:48:04,614 That's what's sad. It's like, now that he's gone, it's like, phew! 770 00:48:05,215 --> 00:48:06,482 I wish I would have just 771 00:48:06,517 --> 00:48:08,317 been a little more on him. 772 00:48:08,352 --> 00:48:11,320 I knew that if I ever had needed anything, Barney would be there for me. 773 00:48:11,355 --> 00:48:13,589 Like, there's not a lot of people like that, you know. 774 00:48:13,624 --> 00:48:14,890 And Barney was like that for me. 775 00:48:14,925 --> 00:48:16,859 He knew that I would be there for him. 776 00:48:16,894 --> 00:48:20,462 Losing that was the hardest thing that's happened in my life. 777 00:48:20,497 --> 00:48:22,164 He had a thin spot in his heart. 778 00:48:22,199 --> 00:48:23,265 And that's what burst. 779 00:48:23,300 --> 00:48:25,100 It was totally avoidable. 780 00:48:25,135 --> 00:48:27,737 If we would have known this, he could have got surgery and got it fixed. 781 00:48:28,839 --> 00:48:30,672 Drugs didn't help in that situation. 782 00:48:30,708 --> 00:48:33,676 I just wished that we would have known that, because then we could have... 783 00:48:33,711 --> 00:48:36,779 actually got his ass in there and got something done. 784 00:48:36,814 --> 00:48:40,082 I feel like I could have saved him if I would've known. 785 00:48:40,117 --> 00:48:42,451 I take things from Barney all the time, you know. 786 00:48:42,486 --> 00:48:43,852 He did his own thing, you know. 787 00:48:43,887 --> 00:48:46,555 He lived his life the way he wanted to live his life. 788 00:48:46,590 --> 00:48:48,524 And he was happy all the time. 789 00:48:48,559 --> 00:48:49,692 He enjoyed his life. 790 00:48:49,727 --> 00:48:51,827 And we all need to just enjoy our life, 791 00:48:51,862 --> 00:48:54,330 not take life so seriously sometimes. 792 00:48:54,365 --> 00:48:55,597 He was in my dream last night. 793 00:48:55,632 --> 00:48:57,199 Yeah. I don't remember the dream so well, 794 00:48:57,234 --> 00:48:59,435 but he had to go somewhere, or something like that. 795 00:48:59,470 --> 00:49:00,803 It was just the trippiest thing. 796 00:49:00,838 --> 00:49:02,104 I think he's still around. 797 00:49:02,139 --> 00:49:03,572 Floating around somewhere. 798 00:49:06,210 --> 00:49:08,644 [instrumental music playing] 799 00:49:38,342 --> 00:49:40,476 [music continues] 800 00:50:11,275 --> 00:50:13,175 [music continues] 801 00:50:42,973 --> 00:50:45,007 [music continues] 802 00:51:22,679 --> 00:51:24,513 [man] Our sacred grounds. 803 00:51:24,548 --> 00:51:27,149 Well, why are they sacred? It's because... 804 00:51:27,184 --> 00:51:29,318 The earth though is not like a washing machine... 805 00:51:29,353 --> 00:51:30,853 It's the clothes are done... 806 00:51:30,888 --> 00:51:35,157 The earth is a neat place for all to cherish. 807 00:51:35,192 --> 00:51:37,926 Don't get stuck in your petty, petty... 808 00:51:37,961 --> 00:51:40,196 Listen to some Tom Petty, Flea likes him. 809 00:51:49,573 --> 00:51:51,674 [man] Hopefully in the future... 810 00:51:52,543 --> 00:51:54,610 we could live in harmony! 811 00:51:54,645 --> 00:51:57,379 And, uh, learn off each other. 812 00:51:57,414 --> 00:51:58,981 [music continues] 813 00:52:20,938 --> 00:52:22,805 [music continues] 814 00:52:44,428 --> 00:52:45,995 [music continues] 815 00:53:11,188 --> 00:53:12,821 [music stops] 816 00:53:20,464 --> 00:53:22,198 [mellow music playing] 817 00:54:13,083 --> 00:54:15,851 [music continues] 818 00:55:07,471 --> 00:55:09,204 [music continues] 73707

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