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Hello friends welcome back to the bench
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this is a z390 gaming motherboard
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very nice one with two m.2
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slots built in Wi-Fi
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uh
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USB type c the
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spdif output very nice
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not a lot of um not very many USB ports
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but definitely enough
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and six SATA
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outputs
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three
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PCI Express I expect this one is full
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Lane and this is half
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usually I didn't add in check even if I
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have a board view for this one probably
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not but maybe I can find it on butt caps
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anyways what's wrong with it
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so
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as soon as I turn it on
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see that flashes
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all these LEDs flash for a second
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and it seems like it's dead but we can
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turn it on
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this one right the board is on
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and one red LED see Let Me Maybe bring
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the camera this way
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yeah there's one LED red LED shining
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over here and these are VGA CPU
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Boot and the ram
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so it's detecting that it doesn't have a
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CPU
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and that's why it's not turning on
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the second problem that I see with it or
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the first problem actually
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other than now I I feel something warm
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here
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something
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getting warm here I'll check it out with
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a thermal camera but before we do that
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this port
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is damaged physical damage obviously
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so that needs to be replaced or that
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Shield can be maybe we can only replace
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the shield on it not the entire port
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or slot
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second issue
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I'm gonna need to grab a scope
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is why it doesn't not have a CPU
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installed
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oh
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because we have some band pins and let's
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see the state of them
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[Music]
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there we go
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yeah
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okay
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and there's someone here
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okay that's good enough to test it
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this is
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still only flashed hmm that's not good
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and it's still flushed the CPU
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oh okay so I didn't come back down
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fine yeah that could be it
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I don't know it's saying VGA yeah let's
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just correct yeah but now now
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everything's lighting up
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foreign
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VGA
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[Music]
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okay
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all right okay we have
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an image
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um I didn't connect any mouse or
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keyboard or anything
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but it's alive so now all we need to do
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is just replace this nasty
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a pcie slot
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and the board will be good to go
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all right let's get to it
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all right how do we replace this guy
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over here well the easiest way
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would be just to put flux on it on both
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sides uh get the harder
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station with no nozzle and and glow on
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this side until it just falls on the
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other side then just clean it put the
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new one in that would have been nice and
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easy solution
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however you do need
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a little bit better device than this
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this one is just not capable of
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delivering that much heat so the other
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possibility with this would be using
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preheater from the bottom
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and giving it like 100 degrees and then
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blowing with this from the top that
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would work but we don't have a preheater
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either
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the other concern is that there is
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plenty of components on this side
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uh some chips over here some capacitors
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there we got plastic here plastic here
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and we got two electrolytic
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capacitors
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and so there's a lot of concerns that we
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have around this socket
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so I'm going to choose and the most
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tedious and most boring way possible
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meaning we're just gonna wake every
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single pin one by one
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until they're all dislodged
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and for that to be successful the
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soldering iron alone will not be enough
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we will have to use some other glowing
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simultaneously
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before I actually even start putting
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flux on it or start the process I will
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preheat the entire board with this about
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150 degrees and I'm just gonna blow on
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it for for a while for the board to get
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nice and hot
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but not too hot that will make it a lot
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easier to operate with my iron
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and the tip I'm going to be using will
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be the Chisel or knife tip
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um which
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um is capable of conducting a lot of
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heat into the into the board the
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temperature will likely be somewhere
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between 350 to 380 which seems like a
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high high temperature but I'll see how
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it goes sometimes when the temperature
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is too high it's it's not working that
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great
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um we do need to heat up the wick along
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with the board and this other for it to
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offer it all to flow if we keep it hot
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for too long the solder is going to
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start making its way to the other side
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of the board and it'll
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hold the socket from this side really
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well and it's going to be
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really difficult to to get rid of it the
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goods are the easy part of it is that we
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don't need to reuse this socket so we
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can damage the socket through the
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process of removal because it is already
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damaged obviously that's why we're
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removing it
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uh there's not only this because this
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could be straightened probably
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somehow maybe but the pins are bent in
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there so we we don't trust the socket
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plus the the clip is missing on this
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side
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um so this is a pretty big hit
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um so
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um the as long as long as we take off
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the The Shield so those big pens
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um the rest we can we can actually pull
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the port with some of the pins still on
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the board because those pins are not
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very firm in the socket if you if you
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pull too hard you'll just um the pins
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will stay on the board and then we can
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individually remove those pins that
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don't want to get off
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uh the main uh the main
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um concern is obviously not to damage
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the board
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there are some tiny traces
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on this side so we're gonna have to be
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extra careful with that not overheating
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it and
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um trying to do it as clean as possible
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the flux we're gonna use is gonna be
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mtech
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[Music]
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um
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nc559 very nice smell through it I must
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say I normally use king bow but I'm kind
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of low on Kinko and it's RMA Flags um
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which I don't know you do need to clean
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it this one technically obviously you
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have to clean any flux now this is NC so
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it stands for no clean
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we'll see how that goes all right let's
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get to it
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[Music]
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thank you
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[Music]
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[Music]
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thank you
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[Music]
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[Music]
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thank you
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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foreign
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[Music]
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[Music]
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all right
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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thank you
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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[Music]
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thank you
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[Music]
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thank you
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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[Music]
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thank you
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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y so the board is out no damage spins no
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damage traces one damaged capacitor 220
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Nano no big deal I'll replace it
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um so this turned out to be extremely
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tedious extremely difficult
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and main reason is ground pens dissipate
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temperature a lot faster than the data
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pins
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so data pins are easy to clean easy or
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relatively easy to clean
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while ground pins not so much they just
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don't want to melt the wig doesn't want
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to catch it
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so I had to utilize a lot of hot air
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and then wicking it also didn't work and
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and I must say the NC flux is not the
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best for this RMA Flags works a lot
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better for desoldering I somehow with
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um the wig catches a lot better on the
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RMA Flags
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but I resorted to using solder sucker
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just blowing harder and and sucking each
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individual pin and that is the most
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effective now every every socket every
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through hole is clean
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and it's ready for a socket replacement
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um I've lost the majority of the footage
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so but it was it was extremely boring
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actually the the only reason because I
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couldn't really
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these other all depends to the because I
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wanted to just be solder everything and
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just pull the socket that was then that
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was the idea then well idea maybe idea
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was that these other the majority of
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them then blow some hot air from the
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back and pull the socket and it should
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come out clean
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that did not happen
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you can see only a few bins actually let
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loose the the rest that are missing here
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stayed on the board
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which means then I could just take the
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harder glow on it and and pull it with
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tweezer
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and that's what I did that actually was
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a lot easier and a lot quicker than
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trying to these other pins from the
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00:22:46,919 --> 00:22:50,159
other side
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either way this is not the best method
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00:22:50,159 --> 00:22:55,020
but this is the best you can do with
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cheap tools like this one
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it's perfectly capable
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00:22:57,120 --> 00:23:02,820
of doing a lot of work but not this work
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and the same if we wanted to resolder
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bch or
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or even even some some chips well this
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00:23:11,159 --> 00:23:16,440
one would be okay this one we could
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00:23:12,840 --> 00:23:20,039
replace in this one but PCH would be
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hard the same with the CPU socket that
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00:23:20,039 --> 00:23:23,400
would also not be possible with this
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00:23:22,320 --> 00:23:26,940
thing
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00:23:23,400 --> 00:23:29,640
all that requires preheater
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00:23:26,940 --> 00:23:31,679
to just keep the board warm from the
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00:23:29,640 --> 00:23:34,140
back and then you can operate from the
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00:23:31,679 --> 00:23:36,900
top or the other way around
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00:23:34,140 --> 00:23:39,600
anyways as you can see it is possible
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doing it in the very hard way that's
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what this video is going to be titled
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00:23:40,919 --> 00:23:45,900
doing it a very hard way very
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00:23:43,020 --> 00:23:48,780
inefficient way but that's what you get
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to do if you don't have proper tools
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and I don't have a socket to replace it
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with yet it's coming to me over from
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China so I'm going to end the video here
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and if anyone's interested I might um I
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00:24:00,600 --> 00:24:04,799
might publish another video where I
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00:24:03,480 --> 00:24:06,780
tested
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00:24:04,799 --> 00:24:09,179
because we don't know if it's even gonna
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work but based on the visual inspection
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00:24:09,179 --> 00:24:14,039
everything should work fine there's no
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damage to anything other than that one
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capacitor that I will replace as soon as
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I get uh as soon as I get capacitors as
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well
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00:24:20,220 --> 00:24:25,440
all right guys thank you very much for
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00:24:22,380 --> 00:24:27,780
watching hope you found this useful in
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any way and I shall see you in the next
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one
21643
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