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I've been filming climbing for a couple decades
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and one of the scariest things I've filmed
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is Alex Honnold soloing The Phoenix
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the slippery, steep, 513 crack
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that runs for 130 feet
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Nobody had ever soloed a route that hard in Yosemite
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It was late spring, I had just arrived in the valley
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to film with Alex
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for a TV news show that was profiling him
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We're all hanging out the first day
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and there was a meeting with the rangers
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called for the next morning at 9:00
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Alex leans over to me, he's like, "Sweet!"
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"That gives me time to go climb The Phoenix before."
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"You wanna go up there with me?"
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And I was like, sure!
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Next morning at five a.m we drive up into the valley
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The Phoenix crack sits high above this canyon
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and right around the corner from it is Cascade Falls
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Because it's spring, the waterfall is raging
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To get to The Phoenix you have to rappel in
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because the crack starts halfway up this wall
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the waterfall is so powerful you feel like
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the rocks are shaking under your feet
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I rapelled into the anchors at the top of the route
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As I was getting my camera ready
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Alex rapped in and took a quick look at the climb
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Normally Alex is so chill about everything
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but he flashed me this quick nervous smile
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that made me think wow, he's feeling something here
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This is big for him
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He rappels down the route
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and he starts swinging out
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This route is so steep
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Alex goes down to the bottom of the route, takes off his harness
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and he has me pull up all his gear on the rope
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I was having this moment like
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oh yeah, maybe this is why Alex invited me here
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not to film it or capture this amazing footage
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but just to like get his stuff out of the way
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so he can climb it cleanly
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as soon as he starts off that ledge
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he's already so far above the ground
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that he's well into the no-fall zone
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Too much wider and you won't be able to see him that well
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a friend is across the valley filming the long shot
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I'm up above, just thinking
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move gently, don't drop anything
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The Phoenix starts with tips liebacking up a thin corner
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which isn't really ideal for soloing
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I remember it feeling pretty insecure
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and kind of tenuous
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it's hard to go from 0 to 60 like that
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to go from just standing on the little belay stance
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to climbing pretty hard tips corner
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I have pretty fat fingers
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so they felt very thin
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the corner ends in a little sequence trending up and right
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which is generally considered the crux
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I found it maybe not as bad as some folks
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because I have fat fingers, so I was able to jam it pretty well
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One of the scariest things about filming Alex soloing
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is he moves so slowly
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you don't know if he's stuck
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or has a sequence wrong
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You just sit there and hold your breath
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As he comes out of this undercling section
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the crack looks so thin
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I zoomed in and got close in
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and it was so, just, sickening
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to see what he was actually holding onto
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I had to zoom back out
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My camera was just shaking
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The rest of the route is basically
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a consistently overhanging thin hands crack
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That part, again, I found kind of hard
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because I have really big hands
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and so tight hands just feels hard for me
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Even though it's really straightforward and pretty simple
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the pump definitely builds
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You do definitely get tired because it's pretty overhanging
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Higher up, Alex started moving a bit faster
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Almost less methodical, perhaps
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I remember thinking, is he getting tired
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and rushing through this?
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The route kicks back a little steeper
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and his position now above the river is outrageous
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Yay!
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He finally reaches around, swings over
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and pulls into this little stance
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I was like, ah, he's safe
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After Alex finishes the climb
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we jumar out the ropes
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I'm like, holy shit, he just made history
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he's climbed the hardest route
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that's ever been soloed in Yosemite
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after that he didn't have some adrenaline
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or altered mind state
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He was self-critical
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He said he felt a little tense on the climb
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and he didn't really like how he'd performed
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The Phoenix, I actually found it pretty hard for the grade
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for myself, given my own strengths and weaknesses
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But, you know, it was a great route
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After the climb we drove into the valley
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just in time for the 9 A.M meeting
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with the rangers and the TV crew
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Nobody had any idea what Alex had just accomplished7843
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