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and we're
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off I'm treading
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lightly my toes are kind of
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hurting slightly more pumped than I
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would have
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liked which is one of the classic ways
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to yourself when you're soing
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when you're on a quest to redefine
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what's humanly possible the line between
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Triumph and tragedy is Razor thin I'm
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Jimmy chin from Mount Everest to
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Antarctica I've had the privilege of
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sharing Adventures alongside the world's
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most daring
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athletes in the pivotal moments when
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life hangs in the
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balance what drives the greatest
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to keep pushing to stare down
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fear to risk
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everything these are the stories from
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the edge of the
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unknown to be on the side of a cliff
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without a
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rope totally untethered you know
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free feels pretty freaking next level
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free soling is the ultimate test of
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climbing that's when it's all on the
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line and that's the challenge of doing
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something that hasn't been done before
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is how do you know that you're
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ready I've known Alex hanold for years
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he's climbed the biggest walls on the
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planet without a
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rope pushing the limits of what's
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possible
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I was there when he free soloed the 3000
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ft ALC Capitan in Yus Valley
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California this was a climb so
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futuristic and Visionary that not even
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the top climbers in the world were
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daring to think about
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it how does someone prepare to do the
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impossible I had been dreaming of free
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selling OAB forever the psychological
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challenge felt so vast
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and if you feel really scared thinking
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about it then you're you're probably not
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prepared
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enough I felt that Morocco would be a
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perfect practice ground to get one step
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closer to freeing
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alab Morocco it's off the map no one
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would know about it this was a place
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where he could test himself both
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physically and mentally with a massive
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amount of climbing and then he wanted to
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free solo one of the big walls at the
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end of the trip he knew that the route
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that he' chosen would be one of the
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greatest big wall free solos in
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history I can't wait to S all this stuff
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I'm so curious if we can actually make
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these walls feel smaller you know
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yeah there's baby goats halfway up the
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first pitch that's really
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cute Tommy was really the only possible
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partner for the training that I was
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hoping to do in
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Morocco we would it's like to climb with
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somebody who climbs so fast like so
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amazing Tommy is one of the best
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climbers in the world when I started
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climbing he was already a hero in the
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climbing world and I looked up to him my
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entire
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life I think Alex and I just felt like
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if we got together and climbed we could
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do stuff that we couldn't do on our own
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and from there it evolved into this very
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close friendship we're only going to
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bring five long and so knowing that he
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had this giant objective my role just
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became to help him survive essentially
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yeah it was one of the on left Tommy
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didn't want Alex to free solo but he
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knew that Alex was going to go do it
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anyways so Tommy decides that the best
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way that he can support his friend is to
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train with
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him doing something that dangerous is
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really about having full confidence that
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you will be successful
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Alex wanted to push himself with a huge
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endurance
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challenge a triple link
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up to climb three of the biggest walls
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in tajio with Tommy in one
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day it would be the equivalent of
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running three back-to-back
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marathons at a world record pace so
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what's your guess on time 22 hours 22 I
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think like 5:00 a.m. top out that means
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that we'd be doing 21h hour link up
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that's my
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prediction all right let's see who's
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Clos
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this okay La good to
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go these big walls are extraordinarily
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technical this is 512 513 terrain a
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rating of difficulty that really only a
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world class climber can climb remember
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of not really loving this
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pitch I don't remember this pitch hardly
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at
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all my finger slipped but it was a hard
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move the hardest move on the RO
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I knew Alex was going to free solo one
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of the roots we were climbing
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together thinking about being up there
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that high off the ground without a rope
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that's a terrifying
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thought there we
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go nice
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dude so fun climbing like that pretty
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solid it did six and a
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half it's pretty sick to think that
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Tommy's about to climb all the way past
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the shade up there in this first block
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like look how freaking far that
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is oh Skin's a little more tender than
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the last stre it's much harder to climb
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sharp limestone in full
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sunlight your fingers are sweating more
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which makes your skin softer which makes
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the rock cut your skin
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more we had to climb very
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delicately make sure we grabbed these
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razor sharp holds and pulled on them as
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little as
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possible and you're also trying to stand
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on these tiny little edges very precise
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small movements with your
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feet the rubber gets really hot and it
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basically Cooks your
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feet it's just hard to cover these guys
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cuz basically they're the fastest guys
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in the world on this Terrain
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you might have worn out the film
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crew you might get a day without a film
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crew then be awesome okay let's go climb
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Another
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Mountain oh yeah more the Sun going away
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is a welcome reprieve where you're like
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oh thank God we're not getting cooked
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anymore but the hard part in the dark is
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navigating
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you never quite know if you're going the
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right direction I'm to my foot is
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totally numb right here that's that's
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what I was saying oh I really want this
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route to go easily and
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quickly yeah all right
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dude wa for the next lap
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huh when you're pretty exhausted and
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it's
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dark it's easy to start making some
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mistakes
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hey guys I see
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them they're already like up
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there we were many many hours into a
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link
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up it was dark and we were quite
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tired your headlamp illuminates like a
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10t bubble around you so that's your
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entire world and you just exist in that
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10ft bubble
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in some ways that can actually be sort
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of
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centering but you still have to be able
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to find the
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route yeah oh oh man I'm getting the
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like release in my feet after taking off
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my
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shoes that was a lot of rock
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climbing I can care at the end of the
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triple we were both
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exhausted and then I was planning on
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spending one more week so that I could
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do a big solo
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project I don't free solo at all this is
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what it is I'm willing to do things that
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I might like end up you know pretty
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maimed but I really really try and stay
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away from things that where I'm just
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going to totally
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Splat it's pretty like thin distinction
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it's all very loose honestly but I
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absolutely understand the appeal of it
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like emotionally that's how I feel
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logically I'm like I should never do
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that yeah maybe you got to just go with
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the emotion sometime I'm just go do
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it those are the things where I'm like
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as a father I can't do that you know
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it's got to be logic not emotion you
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think
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yeah looking back on Morocco there's
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just this level of angst and
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turmoil I felt like I should be training
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harder I should be climbing more I
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should be doing more you know because I
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had this huge goal in front of me and I
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was just like I just didn't know if I
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was ready and felt like I should be
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doing more doing
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[Music]
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more my next challenge was to free sell
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re
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pre to a lay person they look at a big
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wall and they're like that looks insane
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they assume that I just walk up to a
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cliff and just climb it with no you know
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planning no path no no anything but the
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reality is couldn't be further from the
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truth a lot of people think Alex is a
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free
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soloist he must throw risk to the wind
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he doesn't
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care but actually he's one of the most
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calculated people I
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know everything that he does it's so
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methodical and
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intentional how long have you been on M
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how long may going to be on the mountain
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mhm I know hopefully less than 4 hours
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oh really okay so like on the 1500t
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route basically like 40 ft of climbing
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scattered throughout different sections
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that I want to figure out
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okay watching Alex prepare is hugely
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inspiring he's meticulous about how he
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approaches
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it it's about the climbing and it's
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about managing the fear it's about
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struggling with doubt to do something
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that's never been done before
247
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it's not always obvious which parts will
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be easy or hard when you take the Rope
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away so I practice the route with a
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little bit more intentional mind towards
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the free
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solo to spend some time thinking about
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what will actually be scary or
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not the Crux pitch of rier propre was
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the hardest
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part it's about 1,000 ft off the ground
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and when I had first climbed this route
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I had fallen off that pit
259
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that it's pretty steep kind of small
260
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holes in big
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reaches I was concerned about that
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pitch Le Rivier pu in Morocco would be
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considered one of the greatest free
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solos in
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history and I think when you have a
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superpower it's really hard not to use
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it but it was
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Heavy the route requires Precision
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climbing one mistake and he
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dies I remember Alex and Tommy saying
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goodbye to each
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other and I could see it in in Tommy's
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face the hug might have been a little
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bit longer and you know it's one of
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those goodbyes that
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was knowing that you know Tommy might
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never see Alex again
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it doesn't feel good to make your
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friends and family worry about you which
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is why most of my freeing is normally in
281
00:13:37,519 --> 00:13:39,440
private so that you don't put that
282
00:13:39,440 --> 00:13:42,199
burden on anybody
283
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else it felt very different than most
284
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free
285
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solos cameras made it slightly harder
286
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but I also knew that was a good way to
287
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prepare myself for harder things down
288
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the
289
00:13:55,560 --> 00:13:59,839
road shooting a big wallfree solo was
290
00:13:59,839 --> 00:14:02,560
terrifying you know we spent days
291
00:14:02,560 --> 00:14:05,320
rigging on the route trying to imagine
292
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someone climbing it without a rope would
293
00:14:08,240 --> 00:14:10,959
made us very
294
00:14:10,959 --> 00:14:13,839
nervous I definitely feel fear I mean if
295
00:14:13,839 --> 00:14:15,639
I didn't feel fear I wouldn't have to do
296
00:14:15,639 --> 00:14:17,279
all the prep work I would just go up and
297
00:14:17,279 --> 00:14:19,519
do the
298
00:14:19,639 --> 00:14:22,440
route the correct way to manage fear I
299
00:14:22,440 --> 00:14:24,839
think is to gradually broaden your
300
00:14:24,839 --> 00:14:27,199
comfort
301
00:14:27,480 --> 00:14:30,199
zone until your com Zone includes things
302
00:14:30,199 --> 00:14:32,880
that seemed previously
303
00:14:32,880 --> 00:14:35,720
impossible I'm shreding
304
00:14:35,720 --> 00:14:38,160
lightly some climers remember like every
305
00:14:38,160 --> 00:14:40,839
movement of every route I'm definitely
306
00:14:40,839 --> 00:14:42,600
not gifted like
307
00:14:42,600 --> 00:14:44,680
that I knew the hardest parts pretty
308
00:14:44,680 --> 00:14:46,079
well but the rest of it was all a bit of
309
00:14:46,079 --> 00:14:48,320
a question
310
00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:51,639
mark slightly more pumped than I would
311
00:14:51,639 --> 00:14:53,800
have
312
00:14:55,240 --> 00:14:58,279
liked a lot of the lower climbing I was
313
00:14:58,279 --> 00:15:00,240
thinking about it as I did
314
00:15:00,240 --> 00:15:03,040
it like do I grab this one or is this
315
00:15:03,040 --> 00:15:05,199
secure is it that foot or this other
316
00:15:05,199 --> 00:15:07,759
foot should I try a different
317
00:15:07,759 --> 00:15:10,000
foot I got my finger stuck in one of the
318
00:15:10,000 --> 00:15:11,720
pockets which is one of the classic ways
319
00:15:11,720 --> 00:15:14,040
to yourself when you're
320
00:15:14,040 --> 00:15:16,240
soling in retrospect maybe I could have
321
00:15:16,240 --> 00:15:20,720
given it another day or two of prep work
322
00:15:24,120 --> 00:15:29,149
[Music]
323
00:15:30,480 --> 00:15:32,440
I'm slightly over gripping like I'm
324
00:15:32,440 --> 00:15:33,839
holding on too tightly which is why my
325
00:15:33,839 --> 00:15:37,240
feet are sort of tense when I move
326
00:15:38,680 --> 00:15:41,079
them I don't place them smoothly and
327
00:15:41,079 --> 00:15:45,079
quietly I'm like moving sort of Helter
328
00:15:46,800 --> 00:15:50,720
Skelter do you hear that it's off to the
329
00:15:50,720 --> 00:15:53,480
left sounds exactly like someone is
330
00:15:53,480 --> 00:15:56,880
yelling Alex over and
331
00:15:57,279 --> 00:15:59,600
over they're like climbing behind me
332
00:15:59,600 --> 00:16:01,560
highliners on the other side so I can
333
00:16:01,560 --> 00:16:04,000
sand be up here normally when you're
334
00:16:04,000 --> 00:16:05,800
freeing you're totally alone in some
335
00:16:05,800 --> 00:16:07,360
incredible environment but as I was
336
00:16:07,360 --> 00:16:10,279
freeing I kept hearing this weird
337
00:16:10,279 --> 00:16:12,720
yelling it was just this crazy french
338
00:16:12,720 --> 00:16:14,600
guy dangling from a tight RPP in the
339
00:16:14,600 --> 00:16:17,040
middle of the canyon and he kept yelling
340
00:16:17,040 --> 00:16:20,120
at himself like Al
341
00:16:20,120 --> 00:16:24,319
Al oh the guy just whipped
342
00:16:24,319 --> 00:16:25,959
holy
343
00:16:25,959 --> 00:16:28,079
huh and then he would fall off and then
344
00:16:28,079 --> 00:16:29,240
he would bounce on the Rope and then you
345
00:16:29,240 --> 00:16:30,560
try to get back up and then you fall off
346
00:16:30,560 --> 00:16:32,600
and I remember that it made the whole
347
00:16:32,600 --> 00:16:35,959
thing feel a little bit more like a
348
00:16:36,440 --> 00:16:39,199
circus in this case with most climbers
349
00:16:39,199 --> 00:16:42,240
with ropes the whole point is to fail
350
00:16:42,240 --> 00:16:43,480
over and over and over until you
351
00:16:43,480 --> 00:16:45,759
eventually succeed in something uh but
352
00:16:45,759 --> 00:16:47,839
you know with free sing projects that's
353
00:16:47,839 --> 00:16:49,360
totally off the table you have to make
354
00:16:49,360 --> 00:16:51,160
sure you never fail and just do the
355
00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:53,759
thing that you're trying to do first try
356
00:16:53,759 --> 00:16:56,040
just got to climb one more
357
00:16:56,040 --> 00:16:58,079
pitch when I get into the difficult
358
00:16:58,079 --> 00:16:59,519
climbing like doesn't matter what's
359
00:16:59,519 --> 00:17:02,720
going on around me I'm just
360
00:17:03,520 --> 00:17:06,680
[Music]
361
00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:08,679
climbing which really is part of the
362
00:17:08,679 --> 00:17:10,400
appeal of free Solen you know it's that
363
00:17:10,400 --> 00:17:12,720
level of
364
00:17:16,679 --> 00:17:19,720
focus the Crux pitch of rier pre is just
365
00:17:19,720 --> 00:17:23,760
this overhanging panel up high on the
366
00:17:25,799 --> 00:17:28,160
wall it's more fatiguing than the other
367
00:17:28,160 --> 00:17:30,880
pitches because the angle kicks
368
00:17:30,880 --> 00:17:33,559
back and because it's steep fatigue
369
00:17:33,559 --> 00:17:35,799
builds as you climb it your arms start
370
00:17:35,799 --> 00:17:38,880
to get quite tired as you
371
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:42,600
go but that's why Tommy and I had done
372
00:17:42,600 --> 00:17:44,200
the triple ahead of time to
373
00:17:44,200 --> 00:17:46,559
prepare I knew that my fitness was high
374
00:17:46,559 --> 00:17:48,520
enough that it wouldn't matter that the
375
00:17:48,520 --> 00:17:52,280
hard part was at the top
376
00:17:57,200 --> 00:18:00,390
[Music]
377
00:18:12,120 --> 00:18:14,360
oh
378
00:18:15,720 --> 00:18:19,919
yeah I got myself like a like a B minus
379
00:18:19,919 --> 00:18:23,080
like an8 out of 10 I
380
00:18:23,080 --> 00:18:25,919
guess so it wasn't your Fest
381
00:18:25,919 --> 00:18:27,440
S
382
00:18:27,440 --> 00:18:29,760
no no
383
00:18:29,760 --> 00:18:31,440
but you know that's just part of
384
00:18:31,440 --> 00:18:33,960
it sometimes you just got to be able to
385
00:18:33,960 --> 00:18:37,960
perform I remember thinking he looked
386
00:18:37,960 --> 00:18:39,520
noticeably
387
00:18:39,520 --> 00:18:42,240
disappointed he wasn't happy with the
388
00:18:42,240 --> 00:18:46,159
fact that he felt scared on the route
389
00:18:46,159 --> 00:18:50,720
and he felt jittery not
390
00:18:50,720 --> 00:18:55,039
smooth and he knew that that would not
391
00:18:55,039 --> 00:18:58,799
work on El Cap but getting used to
392
00:18:58,799 --> 00:19:00,600
having a film crew shooting him on a
393
00:19:00,600 --> 00:19:03,880
long climb like that helped prepare his
394
00:19:03,880 --> 00:19:07,600
mindset for when we were shooting on Al
395
00:19:07,600 --> 00:19:12,039
cat well shall we do another
396
00:19:12,039 --> 00:19:15,840
one he's got the post solo glow he does
397
00:19:15,840 --> 00:19:18,000
whatever you could say about today you
398
00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:21,280
definitely still have the post solo glow
399
00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:23,559
you did just climb a 512 big wall
400
00:19:23,559 --> 00:19:26,400
without a rope compared to Al cap the
401
00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:28,520
preparation that I put in for reier p
402
00:19:28,520 --> 00:19:30,280
was pretty minimal you know I climbed it
403
00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:32,360
a couple times and then I did one day of
404
00:19:32,360 --> 00:19:33,559
direct
405
00:19:33,559 --> 00:19:36,320
preparation whereas with elcap I spent
406
00:19:36,320 --> 00:19:40,360
18 months or so practicing for the
407
00:19:40,360 --> 00:19:43,600
solo when I left Morocco I was in the
408
00:19:43,600 --> 00:19:45,760
the best shape of my
409
00:19:45,760 --> 00:19:48,520
life I just done each of the hard
410
00:19:48,520 --> 00:19:50,200
challenges that I had set for myself so
411
00:19:50,200 --> 00:19:52,679
like confidence was high when I was
412
00:19:52,679 --> 00:19:54,440
showing up in e in the best possible
413
00:19:54,440 --> 00:19:57,440
shape
414
00:20:01,240 --> 00:20:03,600
he's moving
415
00:20:03,600 --> 00:20:05,600
fast I mean that's like one of the most
416
00:20:05,600 --> 00:20:09,159
exposed moves like anyone
417
00:20:10,159 --> 00:20:14,799
cap Alex is having the best day of his
418
00:20:15,480 --> 00:20:18,360
life oh god
419
00:20:18,360 --> 00:20:22,480
wow oh my goodness oh my God I can't
420
00:20:22,480 --> 00:20:25,280
believe what I just
421
00:20:25,880 --> 00:20:28,840
witnessed oh God
422
00:20:28,840 --> 00:20:32,360
oh oh good to see you
423
00:20:32,360 --> 00:20:36,720
again Alex's free solo LEL cap will go
424
00:20:36,720 --> 00:20:39,840
down as the greatest rock climbing
425
00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:44,360
accomplishment in history what a journey
426
00:20:44,360 --> 00:20:47,080
yeah this was a generation defining
427
00:20:47,080 --> 00:20:50,039
climb the moon landing of
428
00:20:50,039 --> 00:20:53,000
climbing the reality is that I likely
429
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:54,919
we'll never work on anything to that
430
00:20:54,919 --> 00:20:57,000
scale again just because I don't know if
431
00:20:57,000 --> 00:20:58,679
any specific climb will ever mean as
432
00:20:58,679 --> 00:21:02,039
much to me as as elap
433
00:21:02,360 --> 00:21:04,799
did whether or not that will eventually
434
00:21:04,799 --> 00:21:07,840
translate into not sing as much I don't
435
00:21:07,840 --> 00:21:10,000
know I don't
436
00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:12,720
know we'll see if I even want to because
437
00:21:12,720 --> 00:21:15,840
I've solid a lot like I've Sol like
438
00:21:15,840 --> 00:21:17,760
almost anything I care
439
00:21:17,760 --> 00:21:21,279
about Alex's ability to manage fear and
440
00:21:21,279 --> 00:21:23,480
to free solo the biggest walls in the
441
00:21:23,480 --> 00:21:27,000
world is truly remarkable but what
442
00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:29,960
inspires me the most is is the intention
443
00:21:29,960 --> 00:21:32,279
and purpose that he brings to his
444
00:21:32,279 --> 00:21:36,039
life he pushes us to all ask
445
00:21:36,039 --> 00:21:38,720
ourselves are we living the life that we
446
00:21:38,720 --> 00:21:40,600
want to
447
00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:43,039
live when you're standing beneath a big
448
00:21:43,039 --> 00:21:44,159
wall and you're about to climb it
449
00:21:44,159 --> 00:21:46,279
without a rope it's hard to match that
450
00:21:46,279 --> 00:21:47,279
kind of
451
00:21:47,279 --> 00:21:49,279
intensity something tells me parenting
452
00:21:49,279 --> 00:21:50,520
will be a much bigger and more
453
00:21:50,520 --> 00:21:52,960
meaningful experience long
454
00:21:52,960 --> 00:21:55,159
term but hopefully it's not going to be
455
00:21:55,159 --> 00:21:58,520
quite as scary
456
00:21:58,830 --> 00:22:14,769
[Music]30301
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