All language subtitles for Secrets of a Luxury Empire

In Tokyo, it's the evening you need to
be invited to.

Louis Vuitton has pulled out the big
game, an ephemeral pavilion, an old car

in pure Parisian style.

The brand is here to tell its story to
the Japanese.

The best customers in the city arrive in
their best attires.

They all received an invitation from the
CEO of LVMH, Bernard Arnault.

The billionaire, owner of Witten, made
the trip from Paris.

This exhibition was his idea, the
brand's cult objects, which are 160

years old.

After a first stop in Paris, The entire
exhibition got here by plane.

The historic Wooten family suitcases
exhibited like works of art in the

travel universe dear to the brand.

For the occasion, Wooten brought in its
muses such as Cate Blanchett or Sofia

Coppola.

The mayor of Tokyo is here. Cate just
arrived.

Witten's CEO, Michael Burt, personally
welcomes them. Is it a big event for you

tonight? Yes, I'm happy to be here. I
love being in Tokyo to participate in

the exhibition.

People are amazing tonight, Michael.

Sylvia is at home.

It's her house.

Asia is Louis Witten's top market.

And the CEO is not losing the North. He
chose to seduce a Chinese star, Fan

Bingbing. Not so famous in France, she
is the fourth highest paid actress in

the world. Look at him.

It is the look of a man who was going to
conquer the world.

The conqueror is Louis Vuitton, the
original French craftsman of everything

in the 19th century.

You see this young man?

He was leaving his village.

He was 16 years old.

History is the main heritage of the
brand, its best marketing argument.

It's unique. It's really unique. Every
time I share it, I always get

goosebumps.

Everyone knows Louis Vuitton, the house.

Everyone knows the product, but no one
knows the story pretty well.

Tonight, we're telling the rest of the
story. It's worth it.

Vuitton Museum Style.

You might think that the brand is
resting on its laurels.

In reality,

It's the new twist of a formidable
commercial strategy.

Louis Vuitton.

A luxury genius who conquered the world.

460 stores throughout the world.

8 billion euros in turnover.

A handbag empire, a success based on two
intertwined initials.

That of Louis Wooten, a Jura native who
moved to Paris in 1854 as a manufacturer

of cases.

As an observer, he noticed that great
personalities nowadays travel often.

They then invented lightweight and
aesthetic suitcases.

At the time, it was a stroke of genius.
They followed the major expeditions of

the 19th century.

Then begins a family saga propelled by
invention of the famous logo as early as

1896.

100 years later, it's still the same
signed canvas which is behind the

success and especially the profitability
of the brand.

Yet 40 years ago, Witten was just a
small family business a little bit dusty

with just two stores.

So how did it become the leading luxury
brand on the planet?

Just-in-time manufacturing in ten
factories, opening of stores around the

world, and more recently, between
fashion shows and fine jewelry, a new

ultra-luxury strategy.

We were able to film behind the scenes
of this incredible saga.

Never had the brand opened its doors so
much to cameras.

A stone's throw from Arc de Triomphe on
the Champs-Élysées Avenue. This is what

Zutton employees call the flagship
store.

In French, the brand's flagship.

1,800 square meters of radius on four
floors.

There are, of course, hundreds of Wooten
bags.

But more surprisingly, Wooten dresses
and Wooten shoes.

Right down to scarves and sunglasses.

A store the size of a shopping center
entirely dedicated to the brand.

In the Vauden Empire, it is the most
strategic store, an annual turnover of

200 million, so much so that every
Saturday the big boss of LVMH, Bernard

Arnault, went there in person.

The director must report back the week's
activity to him.

You always have something new here that
is still very much functional.

At the back, a little tense, we know
it's a scheme of work which is preferred

by French and international customers
and works great.

The boss wants to know all the best
sellers in the store.

Which is back among the best sellers,
both in baby size and medium size.

You will find out more about Syma later
in the store.

He knows all the products by heart.

At no charge in just 10 minutes, he
scans all four floors of the store.

Why is this Saturday ritual important to
you?

I really like visiting the store. I
think that's the reality.

I always tell my collaborators, you have
to make yourself less available in

offices and be as much as possible in
stores. Besides, in department stores

like this one, in wooden houses, we try
to keep the offices small.

So that managers can keep in touch with
customers.

I think we're standing on the way of
customers.

Top priority for customers.

And to make them even more spendthrift,
the brand has developed the same

strategy all over the world, an
ultra-personalized reception.

Every morning, just before 10 o'clock
a.m., the salesmen come for a first

briefing.

A small army of 250 people who speak 25
different languages.

They are all dressed in Vuitton.

An SME managed by Guillaume, the store
manager.

Are there mandatory outfits?

Yes, absolutely.

It's imperative for everyone to be in
uniform and relatively neutral.

What's so important is that no one is
here to value themselves in front of

customers. I have equally worn a neutral
dress. It's about valuing the house and

our product. I think that's the idea.

Is everyone here? Can you hear me?

Hello, everyone.

Welcome.

Flawless blow-drying.

Miles of rigor.

Victoria, one of the managers, chaired
the meeting in a good mood.

We will talk about the great stories
that marked our day yesterday.

A day full of beautiful encounters and
emotions.

Vendors are encouraged to share their
great stories, what we call customer

experience.

It was full of emotion since Etan was
lucky to attend a marriage proposal from

a husband to his partner.

It was a really beautiful moment. This
happened in our jewelry store.

Just like every day, sellers are
entitled to a short master class on the

latest news.

That is why we are happy to introduce
you the new version of the Capucine

model in a smaller model ad size.

To sell it properly, demonstrate.

An historical anecdote to tell the
customer. It's bull leather on this bag.

The name Capucine is from Rue de
Capucine, where Louis Vuitton set up his

first store in 1854.

A neighborhood once inhabited by people
of the high society at the time,

particularly the Empress Eugenie, the
wife of Napoleon III. Louis Vuitton thus

wanted to stay close to its customers.

One minute before its opening, the
manager ensures everyone is at their

posts.

Once our customers get to the store for
the opening, it must be lively.

Also, there shouldn't be an army of
salesmen right at the entrance because

it can be quite intimidating.

We're opening. It's 10 o'clock a.m. on
the dot.

Good morning, sir. Welcome.

Good morning, sir. Welcome.

Welcome, miss.

Even on this rather gray Monday morning,
the store is full in a few minutes.

Concerning luxury, the brand thought
about all the details that make the

difference.

Just like a big hotel, there is a
janitor, Quentin.

He's a bit of the jack of all trades at
the store. He solves little problems

like that of these VIPs who want to
leave discreetly.

Tell me, what is happening to you?

Please, a white bag, of course, to be
more discreet.

Thank you so much.

They also watch out for customers who
seem lost to refer them as quickly as

possible to a seller.

Hello, madam, do you need help?

Have you taken a photo? You are very
organized.

Okay, come with me.

Even in Paris, the store's main
clientele remains the Chinese. They come

in large numbers to buy their Witten
bags in France, like these two young

women who fell in love with this 1,560
euros model.

Why buy here and not in China? Because
it's cheaper. Because it's cheaper.

30% less than China.

And in any case, Witten is still the
cheapest in France.

But there are not only strangers in the
store.

Also, French customers, particularly
pampered by sellers, for their journey

in Paris.

This family from Besançon has planned to
stop by the Wooten Temple.

We're looking for my phone case.

This hairdresser is searching for a gift
for his eldest daughter's 18th birthday.

For my daughter.

For this lady?

I'll ask one of my colleagues to help
you out.

Whatever their budget, all customers
should feel unique at Wooten.

I'm sorry.

Don't you have it in blue? No, it's not
a big deal. Okay.

It's yours? Yes, it's mine. I brought
back the simple monogram.

We have availability on this one.

We have it available in yellow and
fuchsia. It's cool and fuchsia.

And you can personalize the inside of
it.

We offer you hot stamping.

You can choose to put your initials here
at the bottom or here.

I like that color. Do you want the hot
stamping?

Do you want the initials? Yes, yes.

It's truly yours, personalized with your
initials.

Perfect. What does a small Wooten
accessory represent for you?

It's class?

Yes. It's excellence? Yes.

It's actually of good quality, so it
makes me happy. A nice gift?

Yes.

There is enough for every price.

All. There is everything, all colors.
Have you given yourself a lit gift?

Personally, no.

Personally, I am waiting for it to be
done to me.

The small pouch is worth 200 euros.

One of the cheapest items in the store.

Enough to seduce middle-class customers
who offer themselves a small slice of

dream. Whether you buy for 200 euros or
for 10,000, we are considered the same.

Does that matter?

Of course.

You know, it's not like that everywhere.

You arrive at Witten without making a
fuss.

And the family is still amazed.

The saleswoman leads them to the fourth
floor at the personalization area.

It's the little touch on top of the
brand, always free.

Susie picked the most stylish option.

We use gold, which makes it very pretty.

His initials marked with gold leaf on
the fushia leather.

I think it's retro.

Super. Great.

I'm going to put it on right away.
They've already been there for 45

minutes. And as usual, the saleswoman
did not leave them.

Wonderful. Thanks, Dad.

Thank you so much.

The family leaves under the spell of all
these sales rituals at Witten.

A protocol put in place to make each
buyer feel unique.

Every day, the store earns 550,000 euros
in turnover.

And here, all customers leave with the
item they came to get.

Unlike other major luxury brands, at
Witten, stock outages are exceptional.

To meet demand, the brand manufactures 8
million leather goods in a just-in-time

flow in its 17 global factories, 12 in
France, 3 in Spain, and 2 in the United

States.

In the heart of the Vendée countryside,
the brand's French production sites.

Like all Witten factories, it is fully
operational.

Under the leadership of the director,
Valerie Dubois, 500 workers are boosted.

To run its factories, the brand is
recruiting engineers specialized in

industrial production.

Did it go well?

How's the production going?

Valerie first worked in a pastry factory
before being recruited here.

The job is not much different.

Doors need to be supplied as fast as
possible.

On these two colors that work well, we
adjust according to customer needs and

store demand.

What about next week?

It could be yellow or back to pink,
depending on the level of sale.

The aim is for the customer not to be
disappointed and to have the style than

the color she'll choose.

Quickly?

At the moment, she's in the store.

The 100 production lines are made the
same way, a dozen female workers side by

side.

Here, they make a new design, summer
2016 collection in pink patent leather,

sold at 2,000 euros.

All production is streamlined.

The bags arrive in kits.

All you have to do is assemble them.

First, you have to prick the zipper.

Then, you position the handles.

From work to production, though each
remains precise and meticulous.

The bag goes from hand to hand, and
after an hour, it is almost finished.

Now, you have to join the body and the
bottom of the bag. It's the hardest.

It is the final touch, hence a great
responsibility to my colleagues.

If I miss the bag, meanwhile, they did
very well. It would be a shame.

It's precise and an important operation
where you focus.

Requires a lot of attention.

Like the majority of female workers,
Melanie arrived at Butin after a

professional retraining.

Hired at the minimum wage, paid over 13
months.

Wooten trained her for a year to teach
her the trade.

My wire stops.

They're coming.

To burn them with an iron in the hole.

Is there a risk of burning the leather?

It can be learned.

At first you do, but after a while you
don't burn anymore.

Then I have to control with my finger to
ensure it doesn't itch.

Right now I feel it's itchy a little
bit.

I punch a little.

I am punching a little.

After an hour of assembly, there remains
a crucial step.

At the end of the line, Lissetti is like
the inspector of finished work.

The bag is finished. I will be able to
control its general appearance.

By looking at it, by trying to put
myself in the customer's shoes when she

looks at her bag. In Witten jargon, it
is called the nice gesture.

Lisette inspects the bag from every
angle, even if it means torturing it a

bit. The strength of the cover. You're
shooting at it anyway.

Yes, it has to be solid and functional.
I control the bottom.

By checking that my rivets are well set.

After a final touch, the bag is ready.

It is expected in stores early April to
stick with the arrival of spring.

But these top-of-the-range models, sold
for around 2,000 euros, do not represent

the bulk of sales. The brand's best
sellers are produced right next door.

Like this large tote bag.

The Neverfull, sold for 950 euros.

How many do you do every day?

I'm not allowed to tell you that.

A lot?

It is assembled in record time.

Only a few pieces are made of leather,
like the borders, handles, and straps.

The director takes us to the leather
shop.

A piece that smells like leather.

Hello, Lauren. Hello.

It includes the skins used for the
Neverfull tote.

They are specially made for Witten.

Like these cow hides purchased in the
European Union.

Here you have natural leather.

So that too, the house's iconic leather.

Natural leather, as the tanning process
is natural and gives a clear appearance.

It will evolve over time and have a very
pretty caramel color that will develop

itself.

The skin costs 250 euros, no intention
of wasting. When cutting, Deborah

will remove as little leather as
possible, just around the blemishes.

It's an open parasite.

A mosquito bite? Yes, that could be it.
They're little animals that get in your

skin and leave very small holes.

That, on the other hand, can't be put
on.

Then, to save time and money, the
machines take over.

The computer optimizes the skin.

A hundred pieces are cut into it.

In the end, we find the parts of the
tote bag and very little waste.

The brand is not a mystery. Most of the
tote bag is not made of leather.

The most popular bags are made from the
famous Witten logo canvas.

It is one of the secrets of the
incredible profitability of the house.

This canvas covers two-thirds of the
brand's items.

It is delivered in rolls of several tens
of meters and cut in this room.

Here it smells a bit less like leather.

It's coated cotton canvas.

A cotton canvas coated with PVC.

About its advantages?

Firstly, thanks to PVC, it is almost
unbreakable with unfailing strength.

but above all, for a luxury item, a very
cheap raw material.

According to our information, it costs
less than 12 euros per linear meter.

We've broken down the price of a Wooten
Canvas Bag, excluding taxes.

According to our information, the
manufacturing cost, raw materials, and

labor represent 10% of the selling
price.

Add that of the sales, communication and
marketing network, 50%.

The result is Zooten's margin, what it
has left before

taxes and duties, represents 40% of the
sale price.

An outstanding profitability, a record
in the luxury sector.

To justify its prices between 1,000
euros and 3,000 euros, Wooten promises

rock-solid strength.

At the brand's headquarters, Arnaud
Capdeville, quality director is always

walking around with a bag in his hand
and a number in his head. We guess that

our customers use our product 10 times a
day.

Every day for 10 years, so 360 times, 10
times, 36,000.

This is the check that I can open and
close my carabiner 36,000 times without

it being too soft or too hard to open.

In this laboratory, he tests all the
spare parts because they come from 200

different suppliers, and we must
guarantee quality that is always at the

top.

We try bending of the shoe because some
of the leather pieces in our bag are

subject to the same constraint.

Look here, we are already at almost
25,000 cycles.

The aim is to do the needful to ensure
the finish of our leathers doesn't

break.

For a brand that sells in all latitudes,
what's important is for the materials to

withstand their nightmare, the climate.

So Arnaud lets his bags travel
everywhere.

Now I'm in Singapore, and we're
simulating in this climate chamber for

96 hours a very humid environment, 95%
very hot humidity, 55 degrees.

We look at how our bag, not just the
leather and metal parts, but the whole

bag in question evolves.

In the heat of the tropics, bags keep
going.

The waterproof fabric does not move.

After Singapore, Arnaud takes us to the
United States.

We travel again and now we are in a
desert in Nevada.

With extreme luminosity that could
change the color of the leather, it is

also acceptable.

The worst is left.

We're going to the salt spray.

The room has a seaside atmosphere.

What treatment will you apply on them?

Here, a warm, humid atmosphere with a
solid seaside environment.

Is that the worst?

The worst you can imagine.

I am either in Singapore, I'm in Florida
or Japan, by the sea.

It's hot, humid.

Sea salt is relatively aggressive for
metal parts.

What we want to make sure of is that our
metal parts won't oxidize, but withstand

these conditions, which are sometimes
the most extreme for them.

After traveling round the planet, The
bags pass the final exam alongside a

member of the Wooten family, a certain
Louise.

This is Louise.

The robotic arm quickly lets us simulate
how our product will look like when it

gets in contact with the client's coat.

Is she your first customer?

In any case, the first to see the bags.

You don't get to launch a product
without having passed through the hands

of our robot.

Is it in high demand?

Very popular.

And it works 24 hours a day.

We are asking ourselves if we should
invest on a second robot to help us try

all that has been used by our customers.

While today Witten is mainly known for
his handbags,

The house still keeps the tradition that
originates from the family's origins 160

years ago.

At the time, Louis Vuitton moved to
Asniers, a suburb of Paris.

In this park, he had his workshop and
his family home built.

It is the cradle of the family legend.

To tell the story.

It's always a Wooten that sticks to it.

Patrick Lewis is the great-grandson of
the founder, the only descendant still

working for Wooten.

This is the house of my grand and
great-grandparents, since it was Lewis

and Georges who had it built.

Lewis moved there when he had his
factory built.

I lived in a house there by those cars,
and I used to cross the garden.

I would visit my great-grandmother
almost every day.

The hair focuses on what his family is
famous for, exceptional suitcases made

upon request.

One of the most popular, the wardrobe
case with its small integrated wardrobe.

Very popular, the chapbook case or even
the toilet kit's ancestor.

Even the most eccentric object, like the
camp bed case to take your mattress

anywhere.

In the trunk workshop, the same noise
always resonates.

A rhythm specific to each craftsman.

We put a handle on.

Now we have a Stokowski checker case.

The Stokowski case is a small portable
desk named after the conductor for whom

it was invented in 1930.

He ordered it so that he could compose
his music anywhere.

Is it a product you like?

It's also one of my favorite products.
The practical side is the small office

use while traveling.

You can settle anywhere in the world,
whether it's a hotel room, the desert,

or a patch of bush, or even here, in a
corner of the forest with us.

You settle by a nice landscape. You can
paint. You can do all of that from this

case.

With Patrick, we sometimes feel that
time froze at the good old days.

It's just that here, nothing has really
changed over the last century.

This case... sold for 60,000 euros, was
assembled by hand for many weeks, and

the hair takes care of everything.

It's good.

Thanks. Once the case is full, the
handle should hold firm.

Are you still working like we used to a
century ago?

Yes. Why change something that is
perfect and holds up very well?

Buden cases have always been covered
with the famous fabric.

First coated with glue and now with
plastic.

This is the famous canvas with which
Louis Vuitton has been making its

luggages for years now.

If it has been used for 150 years, first
of all because of its strength, and it

is waterproof.

It's the pillar, the focus of the brand.

This canvas must be respected.

The famous symbol, on the other hand,
was created over 100 years ago in 1896

when Louis' son, Georges, was looking
for a means to stand out from others.

He then drew his father's initials and
these flowery patterns.

Do you know where he got the inspiration
for his drawing?

In his head. Is there no trace?

Yes, yes, of course. There is a whole
story.

Well, Don't you want to say it?

No. Why?

Because it is a merit.

There is a great mystery surrounding the
origin of the famous monogram.

The most probable hypothesis is put
forward by some Wutens who went to the

family house in the garden.

According to them, the earthenware tiles
in the kitchen looked like this.

The similarities between tiling and
Georges Witten's first design are indeed

striking.

Would Georges have simply copied the
tiles in his kitchen?

The brand does not go with this
hypothesis.

Surely not classy enough.

In any case, Mr. Witten does not like
polemics very much.

He spends his time extolling in-house
expertise. In Asniers, there is another

very prestigious department which
produces bags in limited series.

For example, made of crocodile skin dyed
pink.

Are these very precious leathers?

The price per square meter is expensive.

How much is a square meter?

They want to know everything about
money.

It's not part of the prices.

For conventional leathers, because it is
an exceptional leather, it's not common

in the streets.

A very rare leather, so inevitably very
expensive.

A skin of this size can cost up to 1,200
euros. To make a very small handbag, you

need not one, but two.

There it will be, the front of the bag.

The back top, too, in the small scale.

We have two skins for this product. Once
the product is finished, you need to

feel like it's one skin.

For these exceptional materials, we are
far from working at the St. Florence

factory.

The bag is assembled by two experienced
leather workers, entirely by hand.

You need little fingers.

A small prick in the hand, of course.

The pink reptile is reserved for a bag
that is the pride of the workshop.

A smaller replica of a butan case.

A handbag that is so small that it is
very difficult to handle.

Assembling it takes at least eight days.

Let's tell your dad's nears will only
produce 14 in this color.

Ultra exclusive pieces are already
expected in stores.

A week later at the Champs-Élysées
store.

Just in time.

Thank you very much, Stefan.

Guillaume, the director, just received
the precious little case.

It will be in the store's fine leather
goods lounge reserved for the best

customers.

Do you think it will sell out quickly?

With these types of pieces.

It is rarely customers who discover the
suitcases by chance. Rather, it's mostly

customers who, seeing them at the time
of the show, contact us immediately

afterwards indicating their interest. So
the question isn't to know whether it

will sell out quickly, but rather, which
client we will please, and to whom we'll

agree to sell the small case.

You're the one to decide.

We actually have power over this type of
very exclusive piece to decide who it

will be sold to and all its subtlety. It
is not preferred to the same customers

from season to season.

The lucky winner will still have to pay
30,000 euros for this clutch.

And it's still one of the most
affordable items in the small living

room. Here, the house showcases its
craziest objects and the most expensive

ones, like the casino case.

And in this game, it's always Buten who
wins 80,000 euros.

Or less, but barely cheaper.

The crocodile poker case.

These are really favorite buys.

They are rarely planned purchases.

It's going to be a man, or a lady for
that matter, a poker enthusiast or one

passionate about games, who will
discover it and request it right away.

But it's exceptional.

It's not on display for nothing. Can
anyone leave with it?

Absolutely. Nothing is trivial.

And for ultra-wealthy customers to keep
spending, the staff is very caring.

Bruno is the regular salesman of a
wealthy Russian customer who has

scheduled a shopping session this
morning. He is waiting for her at the

entrance because she's always on time.
Hi, we're going upstairs.

Okay, thank you.

Follow Bruno.

He's the master of ceremony today. Thank
you.

Olda, 30, is accompanied by her mom.

In the Witten language, she is what we
call a VIC, very important client.

Bruno has reserved a private room for
her for the day with a view of the

Champs-Élysées and a personalized
dressing room.

Yesterday we received a pink jacket in
your size 38.

I love it. The color is great. It's very
pink.

I suggest you start with that.

Okay.

Bruno and Alda have been seeing each
other every month for the past four

years for these personalized
appointments.

Alda is a very good customer, a
businesswoman at the head of two trendy

restaurants in Moscow.

How does it feel?

Looks super.

I like the color. The color is great.

But I doubt the size.

Last time you tried size 36.

but it was too narrow.

Yes, the sleeves are fine like that.

Is it better in this size?

Maybe we should try a 36 to compare
anyway.

Bruno looks good, but he already knows
that there is a problem.

He has already sold all the pieces in
this limited series in size 36.

I love biker jackets.

Plus, with this Barbie pink, it's
something new.

It's really original.

You can't find it everywhere.

I also picked two pairs of shoes for
you.

Okay, thank you.

Thanks to her marble size, the young
Russian can afford any eccentricity.

You can wear it with a white T-shirt or
like that, but it's more difficult.

I really like it for summer holidays.

It's very nice.

Alda is at home here. She organizes her
own fashion show.

First, the bomber jacket.

Then a coat from the superhero's
collection.

And here it is again, the pink jacket
with its mittens.

Bruno did well to book the morning
because two hours later, they are still

there. The problem is the pink jacket.

She loves it, but thinks it's too big in
size 38. It's too big. We really need to

try 36.

No, it's not too big.

I would really like to compare.

For the sleeves, it's the right size.

In the spirit of the show, she wears
them oversized, a slightly masculine

style.

In any case, it's still better to
compare.

Because Olga keeps insisting, Bruno and
Guillaume exceed politely, but they

can't back off.

Bruno is very annoyed, and now they have
to tell Olga the news.

Okay, since madam is upset too, what
we'll do is... We'll do our best, but

I'm not very optimistic.

Hope you're not too disappointed.

We're going to do our best.

I hope, especially because I was here
three weeks ago.

I wanted to come, but I got sick.

So I couldn't make it.

And because of that, I couldn't come.

Too bad for the 4,200 euros jacket. But
Bruno did not waste his morning, though.

Olga fell in love with the studded cape,
the leather vest, the superhero coat,

two pairs of shoes and mittens, 15,000
euros in total. And she has already

taken an appointment again for next
month.

But Louis Vuitton didn't always have
that power.

Forty years ago, the company almost went
bankrupt.

In 1970, Vuitton was a very small family
business.

famous, but a bit dusty.

It has only two stores and 70 employees.

How did it become an empire in such a
short time?

A visionary man revolutionized Witten in
the 1980s.

His name is Henry Rackamere, who is now
deceased.

To tell the story of his rise to power,
we found his close guard, André Sacco,

his right-hand guy, François Schwiebel
and Dominique Gromengen.

the communicators of the time, and
Christian Depange, his loyal lieutenant.

They go back to the 70s. It's a business
that works nicely, but it's pretty slow.

A turnover of 77 million, two points of
sale, and then 1,500 square meters of

production area.

So it was kind of a size, in quotation
marks, of it then.

The Butin family calls their son-in-law,
Henry Rackamere, to the rescue. He is

married to Odile Wooten, a descendant of
Louis Wooten.

Seems like he does not have the ideal
profile.

Already 65 years old, he has spent his
entire career in the steel trade.

However, it was he who was going to get
the brand off the ground.

He was convinced that his working
method, which he had used all his life

in the steel trade, could also apply to
this traditional, family and artisanal

business.

Henry Rackamere set up an implacable
economic system.

Full control of production.

Opening of stores solely dedicated to
Witten.

This old-fashioned big boss wants to
control the chain from each end and

profits are soaring.

There was financial interest.

Firstly, because it meant adding the
different margins together that you

could get throughout the circuit.

A production margin, a distribution
margin, and a retail margin.

So, that's a lot.

A helping hand from destiny, in Paris,
new customers are buying Wooten

products, the Japanese.

Without delay, Andrew Sacco left for
Tokyo and opened the very first Wooten

store in Asia in 1978.

It was the time when the Japanese were
traveling.

They still do, but then, they used to go
everywhere.

So there were customers.

We just had to hustle to get them.

Well, of course, from Japan.

We went all over Southeast Asia. We
followed the customers.

Thanks to Japan, production is
exploding.

Handbags are selling by the thousands,
and very quickly we see these products

marked everywhere.

Maybe too much already.

To be on a galloping horse if you don't
hold the rein, we risk being rejected.

That was the challenge of the same time
growth, development, and control.

We looked for a strategy. We looked for
what was Wooten's responsibility, which

made it possible to join this brand.

And what territory could we create for
it?

That's how the soul of travel was born.

When we say the soul of travel is
everything, there is nothing more.

The 1981 advertising campaign was
visionary.

In the four corners of the world in
magical settings, we discover the Witten

cases. And this famous slogan, still
used today, the soul of travel,

to lure consumers.

Even though they couldn't afford these
extremely expensive cases, They would

buy a bit of Wooten, a small case, a
cash register.

They were part of the Wooten universe.

In 1987, ten years after the arrival of
Henri Racomere, Wooten completely

changed scale.

The turnover curve has soared.

It went from 70 million francs in 1977
to 2.2 billion francs in 1987.

The turnover has been multiplied by 30.
The benefits are then very significant.

But the Vuitton family finds them
unexpected.

The more points of sale were opened, the
more demand increased.

Obviously, the religion of scarcity had
not been established.

But there was a lot of demand, high
production, therefore numerous products

with a high margin.

So the quantity multiplied by the
margin, which was a big result.

That's a big result.

Henry Rackamere then had other
ambitions.

He wants to create an internationally
prestigious group.

So he gets into partnership with the
French champagne and Cobnac giant Moët

Hennessy. LVM Nietzsche was born in
1987.

A chic and expensive wedding. The total
market capitalization was CHF 23 billion

at the start.

The first luxurious multinational.

But very quickly, the two families are
competing for leadership. The group is

threatened by a takeover.

Henri Racomier is looking for an ally.

In 1989, he called on the services of a
flamboyant young financier who had just

turned Dewar back up, Bernard Arnold.

He was a bit of a white knight.

He started like all the white knights,
and he ended up pulling, pulling

chestnuts from the fire, often.

Bernard Arnold is the third man who was
determined to become number one.

He is secretly leading a game of
financial alliances.

and becomes a majority shareholder, he
ends up taking control. Henry Rackamere,

the creator of LVMH, saw nothing coming.

Justice declares Bernard Arnault the
winner in a battle for the control of

Louis Puth and Maude Hennethy, so the
CEO of LVMH definitely wins facing his

former ally, Henry Rackamere.

It turned out to be completely different
from what I thought it was.

Maybe I was poorly advised.

Bernard Arnault gets his hands on, I
would say, the jewel of the crown.

Ready to be deployed and to become, I
believe, the global luxury brand. The

best known, the most powerful.

Was Putin a war machine?

It was a war machine.

It was the only health that was
amazingly profitable.

An extraordinary possible development.

I think that was his interest, and he is
still very much interested.

After 140 years of undivided rule, most
members of the

Wooten family are ousted from the
company.

They all resigned, leaving Bernard
Arnault the sole master on board.

In 1991, Wooten already had 140 stores.

Bernard Arnold got out to conquer new
territories.

He opened in China, India, South
America.

Today, the network has 460 stores.

It is difficult to compete with this
global presence.

Everywhere in the world, the philosophy
is the same. The customer does not wait

to satisfy them.

Witten has a logistics center in the
suburbs of Paris.

The challenge is to supply the entire
world in less than 72 hours.

Every day, 16 semi-trailers dump factory
production.

8 million items annually.

They were produced yesterday.

And when in store?

If all goes well, they'll be in stores
as early as tomorrow morning.

As a priority, it is necessary to unload
and store what we call hot products.

Those already sold out in stores.

They can be identified by their orange
label.

In Hong Kong, there is a missing bag.

Sandrain is already on the alert.

They have to leave for Asia early in the
morning. How do I know what to take?

The voice asks me to take eight
packages.

It's a robot.

On average, products spend barely a day
in the warehouse.

And to go even faster, Witten

delivers by air.

It is the fastest but the most expensive
mode of transport in the world, a

hundred times more expensive than the
boat.

I am the king of Tetris. A pallet like
that.

I'll try to put everything in it. Then
everything leaves the same day.

Eight cubic meters of handbags carefully
packed and ready to go without waiting

on Rossi.

This is the case for three quarters of
Wooten items.

Under secured escort, the pallet, which
can be worth up to 200,000 euros, is

sent onto the tarmac.

One hour before the flight, while
passengers are seated in the cabin,

under their feet, the precious Witten
bags are loaded in the hold.

They will travel alongside French
gourmet products and other luxurious

items.

Heading to Hong Kong, Asian stores will
be stopped the following morning.

Asia has always been Bhutan's top
market.

Historically Japan, and especially over
the last 15 years, China.

According to Bhutan, this country is
both the biggest market in danger.

Shanghai, 26 million inhabitants, a
luxury stronghold.

China has been an El Dorado for Wooten,
but the market is running out of steam.

The brand has just closed several
stores.

In fact, here Wooten is a victim of its
own success.

Around every corner, there is a parade
of Wooten clutch bags, real ones as well

as fake ones.

In counterfeit stores, the brand is in
fact one of the most copied.

Hello.

I was looking for the new model of Louis
Wooten. You know the new one.

For this trendy handbag with red handle,
the authentic one costs over 1,500

euros. What is the price for the red
one?

The copy is made in Korea and it is
offered at 200 euros before negotiation.

Is it of good quality?

Yes, this is the best one here.

But counterfeiting is not the only
problem.

Vu Teng's other concern in China is
trivialization.

His bag became the bag of the middle
class.

On the web, young Chinese women
presented it as a trophy when they were

finally able to afford it.

Nina, 27, shares this Wutenbag dream.

Moreover, it would complement her small
collection very well.

It's a Longchamp classic.

It is very practical and waterproof.

I wear it with my casual outfit.

Pink is more flashy.

It's for summer.

This one, the red one, is a Michael
Kors.

I like it, but it's not high-end.

Nina doesn't have the salary to buy
high-end stuff.

As a secretary, she earns 1,000 euros
per month and leaves in a small studio

where French brands and the Eiffel Tower
are omnipresent.

I love the Eiffel Tower.

I bought a lot of decorations on this
theme.

And this painting, I painted it myself.

It's not finished yet.

She dreams of visiting Paris. But first,
she has another priority. She wants a

Wooten bag.

And every morning, she goes by the
store.

For now, she's contented with window
shopping.

But she has already clearly identified
the bag of her dreams.

She even has a plan.

Have you found your bag?

I like this model with the gold chain.

It is worn like that on the shoulder.

Look at the photo.

I haven't bought it yet because it costs
2,400 euros so much.

So are you saving money?

Yes. I do odd jobs to make more money.

I think I'm going to have to save up a
total of three or four months.

or at worst, up to eight months.

Up to 300 euros per month, almost a
third of her salary.

Nina is ready to make big sacrifices to
pay for her dream.

And she is no exception.

She belongs to a trend called secretary
syndrome, a phenomenon born in China in

the 2010s when sales of wooden bags
exploded, particularly among the middle

class.

A popularity that would have driven away
the wealthiest customers, the brand

becoming too ordinary for them.

So to win back the biggest wallets on
the planet, for a few years, Louis

Vuitton has been organizing the
response.

Its new strategy is ultra-luxurious.

The counterattack lies on the shoulders
of the brand's CEO, Michael Burke.

It is played in these strange structures
installed in the Bois de Boulogne in the

gardens of the Witten Foundation.

A futuristic cathedral atmosphere built
for a show which will only last about 10

minutes.

The brand launched its own ready-to-wear
fashion shows at great expense.

It's magnificent.

Fairytale.

To fight against the trivialization of
handbags, Michael Burke goes all out.

His strategy is to rediscover the luxury
of the brand's founders.

When you see Witten's showcases at the
end of the 19th century, we were already

in the show, in the beautiful, in the
exceptional.

in the influence of France.

And that is still the case.

Do you play in the big leagues?

Witten has always been in the big
leagues and invented the big leagues.

In the front row, the entire Witten
general staff is present.

The show is meant to be grandiose. It
would cost around 10 million euros.

It is the culmination of six months of
work. It allows you to highlight not

only dresses, but also all the brand's
accessories.

And to sign even more.

Witten offered himself three years ago
the services of the creator who is

rising in the field, Nicolas Ghesquire.

Obviously, his creations won over the
celebrities present in the room.

A house that has truly extraordinary
expertise.

It's great. It was my first show as a
muse.

I have a bag, a dress, and shoes.

I'm fully dressed in wooden.

There are a lot of things that I already
want to wear.

I really like the look.

With the sweaters and slim.

There is a white dress that I love.

The fashion show also makes it possible
to pamper VIP customers like Olga.

For the occasion, she released all of
her latest Witten purchases.

I have the Witten shoes, the Witten bag,
the Witten coat. When I get to the show,

I wear the brand's clothing.

I think that's the right attitude.

And to fight against trivialization.

Witten goes even further in this
ultra-luxury strategy.

It takes place on Place Vendome, the
temple of fine jewelry.

Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels.

And recently, the last to arrive in this
very close circle, Louis Witten.

The CEO, Michael Burke, has come to
validate the latest orders.

The brand chose to strike immediately.

He used the services of this woman, who
preferred to remain anonymous, a

gemstone hunter.

At her level, there are only 10 of them
on the planet.

She only looks for exceptional stones.

You should talk about our new discovery.

This pair arrived at the beginning of
the week.

It is over 63 carats.

Four months since I've been trying to
get the bulges and the size of the

stone.

So that's unheard of.

It is unheard of.

This is unprecedented for these four
precious stones.

Witten is only going to offer them to a
few dozen customers around the world.

In terms of budget, how much would you
charge for these exceptional stones?

You don't need a budget.

If you have a budget, then it's another
job.

It's a job without a budget.

For customers without a budget.

Moreover, at Place Vendam, the brand
felt a bit cramped in the small jewelry

store.

Recently, the brand bought this building
for more than 200 million euros and is

currently carrying out 40 million jobs.

By the end of next year, the global
giant will open its brand new store

here.

The most luxurious ever imagined.