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When I was a kid, this was my playground.
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The Pacific Ocean,
the world's largest and deepest.
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It inspires awe, wonder,
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and sometimes even fear.
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Our oceans are as critical
to our survival as the air we breathe.
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Around the world, we have protected
close to 8% of these waters.
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Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary
is an example of that.
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00:00:42,964 --> 00:00:45,964
Stretching along a quarter
of California's coastline,
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from San Francisco in the north,
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00:00:50,324 --> 00:00:52,125
to Big Sur in the south…
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this unique reserve protects more than
6,000 square miles of the Pacific Ocean.
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It's a hot spot for visitors…
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from migrating wildlife,
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to the tourists who come to see them.
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Monterey's rich waters are a huge draw,
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even for the biggest animal of all time.
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The magnificent blue whale.
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All this natural wonder
right on California's doorstep.
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00:01:55,772 --> 00:02:00,932
But can protected places
and millions of people coexist?
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00:02:07,333 --> 00:02:09,853
Could there be a future for wild spaces
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where, alongside all of us,
nature still thrives?
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00:02:45,456 --> 00:02:49,817
Each season in Monterey Bay
creates its own dramatic story.
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00:02:53,938 --> 00:02:56,098
The toughest time of all is winter.
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00:03:02,059 --> 00:03:05,139
It's December at Point Año Nuevo
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towards the northern end of the sanctuary.
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00:03:18,740 --> 00:03:23,180
These remote sand dunes are reserved
for California's most charismatic visitor.
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Northern elephant seals…
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named for their long snouts,
which males flaunt to attract a mate.
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00:03:53,264 --> 00:03:54,544
But at this time of year,
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the females have other things
on their minds.
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Each mom usually gives birth
to a single pup.
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This one is just four weeks old
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and already weighs 300 pounds.
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All thanks to his mother's milk.
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At 55% fat, it's some of the richest
in the animal kingdom.
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00:04:49,710 --> 00:04:53,031
But producing such nutritious milk
comes at a cost.
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After a month on the beach,
his mom has given all she can.
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00:05:08,913 --> 00:05:12,153
She must return to the sea
to feed herself…
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never to return to him.
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00:05:26,994 --> 00:05:30,835
For the first time in his life,
this pup is on his own.
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00:05:33,795 --> 00:05:37,156
He's big enough to be weaned,
but he's still hungry.
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Being abandoned is a trial
that every pup must face.
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Most of these weaners now fast
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until they're old enough
to hunt for themselves.
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But once in a while, a pup comes along
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that is not prepared to accept his fate…
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…and attempts to pull off
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a milk heist.
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It will call for cunning and deception.
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And the ability to go in under the radar.
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Easier said than done.
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All he has to do
is bump this pup out of the way.
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Busted.
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Maybe he could use a distraction.
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Luckily for him…
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fights regularly break out
between the two-ton males.
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Almost there.
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He can't afford
to get caught in the crossfire.
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It's a lucky escape.
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Around one in 40 youngsters
die from being crushed every year.
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As peace returns
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and the colony settle down for a snooze…
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…he spots
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a soft target.
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If he doesn't wake up Mom.
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Easy does it.
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Success!
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Mom hasn't seen the switch
and drives her own youngster away.
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This young criminal mastermind
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gets away with another round of feeding.
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00:10:10,945 --> 00:10:14,385
And a head start
when he first goes to sea in spring.
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Only about one in a thousand pups
masters this sneaky strategy.
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Those that pull it off become so enormous
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that scientists call them super weaners.
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But for most, winter in Monterey
means there is less food to go around.
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And in the vast, open expanse
of the sanctuary,
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finding the next meal is never easy.
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Orca.
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These supremely intelligent killer whales
are the ocean's top predators.
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They live in close family groups.
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This pod relies on the wisdom
of their experienced matriarch…
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…named Star by the researchers
who study her.
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One of Star's daughters is pregnant.
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Orca have calves about every five years.
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So it's more important than ever
that they find food, and soon.
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A lone California sea lion.
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A much-needed meal
for Star and her pregnant daughter.
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Their celebration helps strengthen
the family bonds.
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But this kill
won't keep them going for long.
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Star must lead her family
in the search for more.
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It's not just the lack of food
that makes winter such a tough time here.
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As the swell rolls in…
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it meets the sanctuary's
shallow coastal waters.
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It becomes one of the biggest
and best-known waves in the world.
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Mavericks.
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00:15:10,657 --> 00:15:12,017
Epic for surfers.
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00:15:29,659 --> 00:15:35,020
But the waves' relentless power can make
the coast an exhausting place to live.
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00:15:40,621 --> 00:15:42,940
Although there are places to find shelter…
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if you know where to look.
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00:15:49,661 --> 00:15:53,263
Monterey's man-made harbors
were once home to commercial fleets
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that stripped the ocean of its wildlife
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on an industrial scale.
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Many species,
from sardines to the great whales,
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came close to extinction.
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In 1992, Monterey Bay was declared
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a national marine sanctuary.
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00:16:20,226 --> 00:16:23,665
Now these same harbors offer some respite.
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A place to relax.
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And recover.
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The southern sea otter.
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Once hunted for their pelts,
their numbers fell as low as 50.
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Now protected, the sanctuary supports
over 2,000 of these critters.
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The old whaling port of Moss Landing
at the center of Monterey Bay
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welcomes its newest arrival.
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A baby sea otter pup,
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just a few hours old.
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He's utterly helpless,
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so relies totally on his mom.
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She needs to keep him warm and dry.
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It's a never-ending job.
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Fortunately, we have created
some handy haul-out sites.
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If she can find any space
amongst the crowds.
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And even when she does…
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…it's just too high.
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Time for a feed
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and a rest in the warmth of the sun.
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As a new mother,
she can't just stay with her pup.
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To produce quality milk,
she must be well-fed herself.
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And that means leaving him alone.
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But the harbor's walkways are too busy.
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So the search is on for a quiet,
dry place to stash him away safely.
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Perfect.
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Now that he's safe,
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the rarest of opportunities for a new mom.
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Some "me time."
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She forages for shellfish
and burrowing worms.
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Nursing moms need to double
the calories they eat.
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Until he's weaned in six months' time,
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he will depend on her
finding enough food for both of them.
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00:21:40,019 --> 00:21:41,981
And the newest resident of Monterey Bay
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is back where he most wants to be.
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The sanctuary also nurtures life
beyond its waters.
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Warm currents flowing up from the south
release their heat into the air…
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taking the bite out of winter
and creating the perfect conditions
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for a precious visitor.
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Arriving in these protected coastal
woodlands within the city of Santa Cruz…
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a western monarch butterfly.
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It's flown up to 1,000 miles to get here,
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all the way from Canada.
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00:23:16,151 --> 00:23:17,991
And it's not alone.
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An entire colony
will spend the next few months here,
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protected from the harsh winters
further north.
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Once, millions sheltered in these woods.
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Now, less than 1% remain,
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the others lost to climate change
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and habitat destruction.
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These trees are one
of their few protected havens.
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Now, the monarchs must hold out
for spring to arrive.
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00:24:23,118 --> 00:24:27,959
Finally, after the long wait,
a warmer sun rises.
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They spread their wings
to absorb the heat.
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And flap to stir cold flight muscles.
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Then, when the moment's right…
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they head inland to lay their eggs.
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With successive generations
working their way back towards Canada…
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carrying a new hope
for the future of their species…
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thanks to the gift
of the ocean's winter warmth.
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Reminding us
that the health of our climate
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and our ocean are intimately connected.
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The arrival of spring is marked
by a change in the prevailing winds.
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Northwesterlies drive an upwelling
of cold water from the deep.
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It also brings nutrients to the shallows.
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And within weeks,
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mesmerizing patterns
start to appear all along the coast.
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Forests of kelp.
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These giant algae
support a vibrant community.
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The perfect place for Monterey's
sea otters to search for food.
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And the kelp helps
in the fight against climate change
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by capturing up to 20 times more carbon
per acre than forests on land.
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This hungry otter won't find
what he's looking for up here.
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00:27:39,179 --> 00:27:43,180
At the base of the kelp
is a spring pantry of fresh food.
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00:27:49,220 --> 00:27:51,301
But it's not all to his taste.
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Sea otters are fussy eaters.
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When young, they get a taste
for their mom's favorite food.
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00:28:06,982 --> 00:28:09,023
Some eat spiky urchins.
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00:28:11,102 --> 00:28:12,102
But not this one.
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He loves mussels.
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Lots of them.
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00:28:37,065 --> 00:28:40,026
And when the otters need to kick back
and digest their meal…
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they roll themselves up in the fronds…
190
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…and enjoy a nap
without drifting out to sea.
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The spring kelp acts
as a safe haven for many.
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00:29:13,430 --> 00:29:17,629
But beyond lie deeper waters
with nowhere to hide.
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Monterey Bay conceals an underwater abyss
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every bit as magnificent
as the Grand Canyon.
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Just over 10,000 feet deep,
it splits the bay in two.
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00:29:44,473 --> 00:29:47,713
Any animal swimming along the coast
will cross the canyon.
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Star and her hungry family know it.
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00:30:02,114 --> 00:30:06,275
Now a grandma, Star has
a two-month-old calf to look after.
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She's timed their arrival here
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00:30:21,556 --> 00:30:24,437
to set an ambush
for their most important prey.
201
00:30:29,438 --> 00:30:33,998
Every April, gray whales and their calves
migrate north through the sanctuary.
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00:30:40,719 --> 00:30:45,639
Sticking close to the safety of the shore,
they are camouflaged by the kelp forests.
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00:30:56,801 --> 00:30:58,921
But when they reach the middle of the bay…
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00:31:01,401 --> 00:31:03,722
they have no option but to break cover.
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00:31:14,322 --> 00:31:18,523
Adult grays are about eight times
the weight of an orca.
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Too big to take on.
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00:31:25,204 --> 00:31:27,524
So the smaller calf will be the target.
208
00:31:32,005 --> 00:31:34,685
Enough to feed the whole family
for many days.
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00:31:52,606 --> 00:31:54,927
When hunting, they fall silent.
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00:32:18,089 --> 00:32:20,530
The largest adults lead the attack.
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First, they ram the calf…
212
00:32:35,492 --> 00:32:39,772
hitting it with so much force,
they lift the 2,000-pound young gray
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00:32:40,331 --> 00:32:41,812
almost out of the water.
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00:32:46,412 --> 00:32:48,213
But its protective mother fights back.
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00:32:51,652 --> 00:32:53,454
One swipe of her huge tail…
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00:32:55,974 --> 00:32:57,653
could be deadly to an orca.
217
00:33:03,975 --> 00:33:06,015
They push the calf away from its mother.
218
00:33:21,896 --> 00:33:24,537
One by one, they launch onto its back…
219
00:33:28,656 --> 00:33:29,896
trying to drown it.
220
00:33:36,857 --> 00:33:40,179
In the thick of the action,
the youngest orca calf,
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00:33:40,739 --> 00:33:42,658
already learning from its elders.
222
00:33:51,020 --> 00:33:53,379
The gray whale's mother
hasn't given up yet.
223
00:33:55,939 --> 00:33:58,500
She tries to keep her calf's head
above the surface.
224
00:34:01,340 --> 00:34:03,860
But she's no match
for the family working together.
225
00:34:20,703 --> 00:34:23,223
It's a mercifully swift end to events.
226
00:34:41,225 --> 00:34:43,746
This one whale will sustain many.
227
00:34:55,867 --> 00:35:00,506
And Star has passed on the skills
her family will need to survive.
228
00:35:16,309 --> 00:35:20,670
Spring turns to summer, and there's
a dramatic change in the weather.
229
00:35:23,870 --> 00:35:27,950
After warming the land all winter,
the sea now cools it.
230
00:35:32,951 --> 00:35:36,871
The cold water welling up from the deep
meets the warm summer air…
231
00:35:39,832 --> 00:35:41,912
and sea fog starts to form.
232
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Known locally as the June Gloom,
it blankets the shore.
233
00:35:54,993 --> 00:35:56,993
At the sanctuary's northern edge,
234
00:35:57,073 --> 00:36:01,513
it envelops San Francisco's
iconic Golden Gate Bridge.
235
00:36:16,196 --> 00:36:19,636
For the next few months,
it will bring badly needed moisture
236
00:36:19,716 --> 00:36:23,716
along the coast to one of the most
drought-ridden states in America.
237
00:36:26,917 --> 00:36:28,677
Supporting towering forests.
238
00:36:37,037 --> 00:36:41,158
And maintaining a lush, green landscape
through the hottest months.
239
00:36:50,759 --> 00:36:52,720
But gradually through the summer,
240
00:36:53,360 --> 00:36:57,800
the sunshine burns off the fog
and begins to warm the sea surface.
241
00:37:00,720 --> 00:37:02,601
New creatures start to appear.
242
00:37:06,001 --> 00:37:09,241
Some having traveled thousands of miles.
243
00:37:16,402 --> 00:37:18,682
Majestic blue whales.
244
00:37:21,643 --> 00:37:25,843
They pair up here
en route to mating grounds further south.
245
00:37:28,763 --> 00:37:32,164
Giant sunfish, ten feet across,
246
00:37:32,244 --> 00:37:35,284
lie on their sides
to soak up the sun's rays.
247
00:37:48,646 --> 00:37:50,846
Risso's dolphins play in the swell.
248
00:37:56,286 --> 00:37:58,447
And a mysterious new arrival.
249
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A great white shark.
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00:38:18,809 --> 00:38:20,449
She's around six years old.
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00:38:23,289 --> 00:38:26,049
Not yet big enough
to maintain her own body temperature.
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00:38:28,490 --> 00:38:32,130
So she's heading
for a warm, shallow cove by Santa Cruz…
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already busy with other summer visitors.
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00:38:56,133 --> 00:38:57,853
But she's just six feet long…
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00:39:00,733 --> 00:39:03,454
…and only interested in eating fish.
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00:39:16,175 --> 00:39:19,534
For the last few years,
dozens of young great whites
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00:39:19,615 --> 00:39:21,496
have been hanging out here in summer.
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00:39:30,697 --> 00:39:32,457
Nicknamed Shark Park,
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00:39:33,056 --> 00:39:35,657
this is the northernmost place
in the Pacific
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00:39:35,737 --> 00:39:37,617
these youngsters are known to gather.
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00:39:43,218 --> 00:39:46,778
An inspiring opportunity
for the sanctuary's human visitors
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00:39:46,858 --> 00:39:49,578
to appreciate these icons of the ocean.
263
00:40:02,579 --> 00:40:06,821
But Monterey's greatest spectacle
is still to come.
264
00:40:14,421 --> 00:40:18,462
Where sunlight meets the nutrient-rich
water rising up from the deep…
265
00:40:20,662 --> 00:40:22,422
the ocean turns green.
266
00:40:25,223 --> 00:40:29,582
Billions of microscopic algae
called phytoplankton multiply.
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00:40:33,944 --> 00:40:37,264
They might be tiny,
but these plant-like cells
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00:40:37,344 --> 00:40:39,384
are critical for all life.
269
00:40:42,464 --> 00:40:44,945
Globally, they generate more oxygen
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00:40:45,025 --> 00:40:48,064
than all the world's
rain forests combined.
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00:40:57,666 --> 00:41:02,227
Within days, a green flame forms
on the surface of the ocean
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00:41:03,106 --> 00:41:05,066
that's visible from space.
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00:41:08,627 --> 00:41:12,508
These blooms are the first rung
of a complex food chain.
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00:41:14,988 --> 00:41:18,587
And as summer turns to fall,
they trigger the start
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00:41:18,668 --> 00:41:21,389
of one of the most incredible events
in the ocean.
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00:41:31,830 --> 00:41:34,270
Beginning with sea nettle jellies.
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00:41:41,711 --> 00:41:43,351
One and a half feet across…
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00:41:45,951 --> 00:41:48,192
and up to 15 feet in length…
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00:41:51,832 --> 00:41:56,153
these otherworldly creatures
drift until they find the plankton blooms.
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00:42:01,473 --> 00:42:06,314
Then, pulsating, they fight the current
to gorge themselves.
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00:42:15,635 --> 00:42:17,395
Forming huge swarms.
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00:42:33,637 --> 00:42:35,917
The great gathering has begun.
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00:42:40,477 --> 00:42:43,358
Anchovies arrive in their millions,
284
00:42:44,758 --> 00:42:46,958
also here to feast on the plankton.
285
00:42:52,759 --> 00:42:57,239
These dark, dense shoals of fish
can stretch over a mile wide.
286
00:43:00,599 --> 00:43:02,400
But they, too, are on the menu.
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00:43:16,481 --> 00:43:17,881
California sea lions.
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00:43:19,561 --> 00:43:20,722
Anchovy hunters.
289
00:43:31,843 --> 00:43:32,883
Hundreds strong.
290
00:43:41,364 --> 00:43:45,524
But finding the shoals
over such a vast area is far from easy.
291
00:44:00,006 --> 00:44:02,046
Humpback whales join the hunt.
292
00:44:12,367 --> 00:44:15,808
They can pinpoint the anchovies
from huge distances away.
293
00:44:18,928 --> 00:44:20,888
How they do this is a mystery.
294
00:44:24,088 --> 00:44:26,929
But the sea lions seem to know
what the whales are up to…
295
00:44:29,689 --> 00:44:31,249
and follow in their wake.
296
00:44:40,569 --> 00:44:42,411
Once they have zoned in on the fish…
297
00:44:45,771 --> 00:44:47,971
the sea lions charge in…
298
00:44:53,972 --> 00:44:55,212
rounding them up.
299
00:45:02,533 --> 00:45:06,132
As the anchovies panic,
they form an ever-tighter ball.
300
00:45:18,574 --> 00:45:20,815
A 5,000-gallon mouthful.
301
00:45:35,856 --> 00:45:37,857
It pays to work as a team.
302
00:45:53,378 --> 00:45:55,658
A pod of a thousand dolphins
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00:45:57,499 --> 00:45:59,299
rush to join the bonanza.
304
00:46:54,065 --> 00:46:57,825
Everyone will feast
until the shoal is no more.
305
00:47:12,307 --> 00:47:16,307
This extraordinary banquet
is one of the great wonders
306
00:47:17,387 --> 00:47:18,468
of the natural world…
307
00:47:24,948 --> 00:47:29,469
playing out within sight
of the densely populated California coast.
308
00:47:41,470 --> 00:47:45,629
Monterey Bay's marine life
has seen a remarkable recovery.
309
00:47:48,471 --> 00:47:51,951
But it's a very small piece
of a much bigger jigsaw.
310
00:47:55,752 --> 00:47:59,591
And around the world,
ocean health is in steep decline.
311
00:48:02,432 --> 00:48:06,473
Sea temperatures are rising,
damaging entire ecosystems.
312
00:48:09,273 --> 00:48:13,514
Fish stocks are plummeting,
causing havoc up and down the food chain.
313
00:48:18,394 --> 00:48:20,354
And pollution is escalating,
314
00:48:22,153 --> 00:48:23,715
poisoning our seas.
315
00:48:26,795 --> 00:48:28,114
To tackle these threats,
316
00:48:29,114 --> 00:48:32,155
we need to expand
and connect our marine sanctuaries.
317
00:48:34,675 --> 00:48:36,796
And by protecting the ocean's hot spots,
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00:48:36,876 --> 00:48:40,476
we can generate impact
far beyond the sanctuary's borders…
319
00:48:42,517 --> 00:48:45,517
enriching the ocean beyond,
and our own lives too.
320
00:48:47,636 --> 00:48:50,878
The fate of the world's oceans
affects every single one of us.
321
00:48:51,518 --> 00:48:53,478
They are our life-support system.
322
00:48:54,558 --> 00:48:57,758
Our health and theirs are bound together.
323
00:49:01,079 --> 00:49:04,399
Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary
gives us hope
324
00:49:04,959 --> 00:49:08,239
that although human activity
has harmed the ocean,
325
00:49:09,639 --> 00:49:12,240
as long as we make
the right choices from now on,
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00:49:13,040 --> 00:49:14,679
we can heal it too.
26563
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