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Over one third of our planet
is frozen. And yet the icy
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worlds of the Arctic and
Antarctic are as alien to most of
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us as the surface of another planet.
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They are places of superlatives,
from ice caps that hold
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nearly 80% of our planet's
fresh water to frozen forests
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that encircle the entire globe.
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These are places that feed
our imaginations, places that
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seem to be borrowed from fairy
tales. They are dominated and
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shaped by the ice, both by
its coming and by its going.
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This is our planet's last true
wilderness, and one that is
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changing just as we're
beginning to understand it. In this
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series, we'll be travelling
to all parts of these lonely
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lands, both north and south,
to witness its wonders, perhaps
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for the last time, and to
discover some extraordinary
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examples of survival against
all the odds, as can be found
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anywhere on the planet.
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The poles are permanently
capped with ice. Nowhere
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is colder, windier or
more hostile to life.
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I'm standing at the North
Pole, the very top of the Earth.
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Up here, it's easy to see why
the polar regions are so cold.
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The sun never rises high
enough in the sky to warm my
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back, and those rays that do
strike the surface are mostly
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reflected back from this
great whiteness. But the
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00:02:46,784 --> 00:02:52,240
fundamental problem is that
there's no sun here at all for
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00:02:52,240 --> 00:02:57,604
half the year. The polar
winter is unrivaled in its
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harshness, a night that lasts
for months. Only the toughest
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day, as temperatures plunge
to minus 70 degrees centigrade.
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00:03:08,434 --> 00:03:12,740
And yet, the greatest
challenge to life here is not the
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cold, but the extreme swings
between the seasons. When the
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sun finally returns, an
extraordinary transformation begins.
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This frozen world begins to melt away.
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The polar spring brings
a brief opportunity for life.
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By summer, the sun no longer sets
and works its magic for 24 hours a day.
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Now it's a race to breed
before the sun departs.
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By autumn, all but the hardiest abandon
the poles and the ice extends its grip.
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Land and sea close down for the long polar
winter until, once again, the sun returns.
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It's spring in the high
Arctic, and the sun illuminates
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a giant frozen ocean, the
first stop on our journey.
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The most powerful land
predator is on the prowl.
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A male polar bear is searching for a mate.
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Willing females are few
and far between, and the sea
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ice on which he travels
will soon melt and vanish.
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He's running out of time to find
a mate in this vast frozen desert.
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Ten miles ahead, a single female without
cubs. Exactly what the male is seeking.
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He seems to relish her
scent even though she's
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miles away. This is
an exciting prospect.
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She's clearly giving off the right signals.
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He locks onto her tracks,
eager not to lose her trail. It's
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easier to tread in the
compacted snow of her footprints.
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This pursuit could last for days.
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The female eventually comes
into view. The search is finally over.
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For the female, only half his
weight, this must be a nerve
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-wracking encounter. The
male could kill her if he chooses.
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00:06:45,360 --> 00:06:51,980
But he has other intentions,
and she is ready and willing.
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She leads him to higher ground.
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00:07:03,200 --> 00:07:07,316
It seems that courting polar
bears prefer privacy, often
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leaving the sea ice and
heading for the hills to avoid the
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prying eyes of rival males
who might disturb them.
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Few have witnessed this
moment. For the male, his
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only tender encounter in
an otherwise solitary life.
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But it doesn't last long. A rival suitor
has also caught the female's scent.
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Courtship has to be put on
hold. He must fight for his rights.
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He sees off this first
challenger without injury
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to either party. But
bloodier battles are to come.
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Another battle won. Though
he has been slightly injured. He
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00:08:35,601 --> 00:08:40,340
hurries back to his mate, but
now she seems to have lost her
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enthusiasm. Female polar
bears are high maintenance.
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00:09:01,440 --> 00:09:04,584
Wherever she goes,
he will follow, mating with
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her when she allows and
guarding her at all times.
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Over the next two weeks,
the male sees off many
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rivals, but the battles
take their toll on him.
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He is almost spent, but he has ensured that
no other bears have mated with his female.
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It's time for the couple to go
their separate ways. She will
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give birth to his cubs alone in
nine months time, and he may
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00:09:55,640 --> 00:10:01,108
never see her again. He
returns to the frozen ocean, no
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00:10:01,120 --> 00:10:06,600
doubt relieved to resume
his solitary ways. And just in
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time, the ice beneath
his feet will soon be gone.
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00:10:13,880 --> 00:10:18,467
Each spring, the Arctic Ocean
undergoes an extraordinary
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transformation. An area of
sea ice the size of Europe melts,
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exposing the rich waters beneath.
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00:10:29,700 --> 00:10:35,080
Short-tailed shearwaters have travelled
10,000 miles from Australia to be here.
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18 million visitors
darken the skies, the
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00:10:45,364 --> 00:10:49,140
largest gathering of
seabirds on the planet.
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00:11:04,280 --> 00:11:07,305
Humpback whales have
come all the way from the
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equator to feed in
these rich polar waters.
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Their giant tails are five metres across.
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00:11:23,740 --> 00:11:26,885
Simply raising them above
the surface gives the whales
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enough downward momentum
to reach the great swarms of Trill
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and Herring below.
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The shearwaters follow the giant's lead.
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00:12:09,720 --> 00:12:14,310
For those who can get here in
summer, these waters provide
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a feast of epic proportions.
But the good times will be very
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short, a problem that faces
all life in the polar regions.
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Journey south across the
Arctic Ocean, the first land you
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reach is Greenland, the largest
island in the world. Despite
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its name, Greenland is
mostly white, covered by a giant
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00:12:40,219 --> 00:12:43,840
ice sheet six times the
size of the United Kingdom.
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00:12:47,800 --> 00:12:51,279
In the middle of the
island, the ice is nearly
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two miles thick. It's
a bleak, quiet world.
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00:13:01,000 --> 00:13:06,640
Sapphire blue melt lakes are the first
sign that a dynamic process is underway.
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00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:14,041
Each lake forms in a
matter of days, expanding
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until it's miles across
and starts to overflow.
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00:13:20,380 --> 00:13:23,540
The spill water then carves
its way through the ice.
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00:13:35,240 --> 00:13:39,826
The water courses through
an icy delta like blood along
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the arteries of a cold-blooded
monster. A monster that is
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stirring.
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00:13:57,040 --> 00:14:01,629
And without warning, the water
suddenly plunges down an open
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00:14:01,641 --> 00:14:05,940
shaft, falling a vertical
mile into the heart of the ice
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00:14:05,940 --> 00:14:06,260
sheet.
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00:14:30,420 --> 00:14:35,267
This melt water has a
surprising effect. It lubricates the
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junction between the ice and
the rock floor beneath, so the
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00:14:40,220 --> 00:14:46,420
entire ice sheet is now on the
move, sliding downhill into the ocean.
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00:14:49,280 --> 00:14:53,759
This, Jakobshaven Isbre,
is the fastest flowing glacier
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on our planet, moving as
much as 40 meters a day.
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00:15:00,300 --> 00:15:04,577
As it advances, it destroys
everything in its path, even
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cutting its way through Greenland's
great mountain ranges on
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00:15:09,180 --> 00:15:11,500
its drive downwards towards the sea.
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00:15:14,940 --> 00:15:20,460
When speeded up, these solid rivers of
ice seem to flow just like liquid rivers.
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00:15:26,420 --> 00:15:29,624
This is the titanic
force that cuts down
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00:15:29,636 --> 00:15:33,400
mountains and levels
the surface of continents.
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00:15:51,080 --> 00:15:56,917
The ice is now entering the
last stage of its descent. As
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00:15:56,929 --> 00:16:02,980
it gains speed, huge crevasses
open that extend down to its
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00:16:02,980 --> 00:16:03,880
very core.
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00:16:09,560 --> 00:16:12,418
It's reached the ocean,
and millions of tons of
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00:16:12,430 --> 00:16:15,180
ice have lost the
support of their rocky bed.
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00:16:18,620 --> 00:16:21,640
Something must give.
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00:16:41,720 --> 00:16:45,610
These ice falls are an
ominous sign of what is
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00:16:45,622 --> 00:16:49,940
about to happen. A rupture
deep within the glacier.
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00:17:16,500 --> 00:17:20,620
A colossal iceberg is born.
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00:17:44,900 --> 00:17:48,313
This single block of ice,
many hundreds of meters
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00:17:48,325 --> 00:17:52,160
across, would dwarf the
biggest of mankind's buildings.
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00:17:59,280 --> 00:18:03,068
Every year, tens of thousands
of icebergs are spawned
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by Greenland's glaciers,
and their number is steadily
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00:18:06,880 --> 00:18:09,900
increasing as the
climate continues to warm.
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00:18:20,680 --> 00:18:25,788
The break-up of the bergs
fills the bays of the Arctic with
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00:18:25,800 --> 00:18:30,920
exquisite ice sculptures. It
also releases great volumes of
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00:18:30,920 --> 00:18:35,668
cold, fresh water into the
sea. Greenland's meltwater
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influences the course of the
ocean currents, which in turn
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has an effect on the
weather around the world.
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00:18:52,400 --> 00:18:56,525
The Arctic is closer to home
than many of us realize. It
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includes the northernmost
parts of the three continents on
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which most of us live, Europe,
Asia, and North America. The
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00:19:06,789 --> 00:19:12,560
first bare land we reach on
our journey south is a bleak,
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treeless wilderness known as Tundra.
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Each spring, animals travel
up from the south to be ready
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for the rich grazing that
will be unveiled by the spring
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melt. For the caribou, the
timing is critical. Arrive early,
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and a winter storm could kill
you. Delay too long, and you
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may fail to lay down the fat
needed to survive a polar winter.
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For the south still
and stooped shrouded
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figures end the flat
monotony of the Tundra.
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This is the tree line, the
first place on our journey with
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sufficient warmth and liquid
water to enable a tree to grow.
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00:20:08,720 --> 00:20:12,289
Surviving here is so
crushingly difficult that it can take
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hundreds of years for a
seedling to grow into a stunted
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shrub.
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00:20:24,920 --> 00:20:30,096
But even small trees can
provide cover for a predator.
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Wolves. These in northern
Canada are the largest and most
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powerful in the world, and
they're setting out to hunt.
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The pack is 25 strong, a sign that
the prey they're seeking is formidable.
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These bison are even bigger
than their southern cousins and
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the largest land animals in
North America. For generations,
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wolves and bison here have
been shaped by their battles with
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each other, making each the
most impressive of its kind. The
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bison will not stay long among
the trees. They're not safe here.
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The wolves are closing in,
but their chance of ambushing
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the bison in the woods has
passed. Their prey are now in the
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open and grouped together for safety.
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The wolves will need to work
as a team if they're to make a kill.
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00:21:47,760 --> 00:21:51,749
They circle the herd, try
to unsettle it and split it up.
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00:21:51,761 --> 00:21:55,900
But the bison are armed and
dangerous. They will be safe as
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00:21:55,900 --> 00:21:57,200
long as they stick together.
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The wolves up their game,
harrying the herd, a ploy to
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00:22:06,496 --> 00:22:10,140
trigger a stampede and split
away one of the smaller ones.
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The bison form a defensive circle around
their young, horns pointing outwards.
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The wolves need a bison to break rank.
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But the tables are turning, and
now the wolves have to retreat.
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00:22:40,420 --> 00:22:45,420
The pack focus their attention on the rear
of the herd, and the bison begin to panic.
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A young bison falls behind.
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00:23:28,120 --> 00:23:31,820
Even this yearling dwarfs the wolves.
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Running, the young bison
rushes to the herd. Looking
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head down, the herd's
only thought is escape.
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A stroke of luck for the wolves.
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The kill will feed the pack
for several days, but then they
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00:24:08,373 --> 00:24:12,660
will have to resume the
chase. At the frozen ends of our
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planet, the struggle
for survival never eases.
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South of the tree line, the
winters are shorter, so trees
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grow faster and taller, and
forests begin to appear. As the
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00:24:37,680 --> 00:24:41,931
warm, humid air from the
south meets the cold arctic air,
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00:24:41,943 --> 00:24:46,280
the moisture it carries
crystallizes, and snowflakes fall.
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They fall from the sky.
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00:24:50,440 --> 00:24:54,480
Each crystal forms
around a particle of dust.
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00:25:00,020 --> 00:25:03,223
All have a six-fold
symmetry, but no two have
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00:25:03,235 --> 00:25:06,380
ever been found with
exactly the same shape.
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00:25:14,100 --> 00:25:18,100
Their variety and
complexity is breathtaking.
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00:25:23,880 --> 00:25:28,385
Each snowflake is water
waiting to be released in spring.
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00:25:28,397 --> 00:25:32,680
For this reason, snow is
the lifeblood of these silent
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00:25:32,680 --> 00:25:36,360
forests, and all that live here
depend on it in one way or another.
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00:25:40,380 --> 00:25:41,100
Some,
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00:25:44,880 --> 00:25:48,889
like the great gray
owl, appear in spring for
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00:25:48,901 --> 00:25:52,660
the boom times, then
vanish like phantoms.
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00:25:55,960 --> 00:25:59,398
Others, like their lemming
prey, are here year-round
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beneath the snow, insulated
from the cold air above.
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00:26:23,500 --> 00:26:28,566
The northern forests are a
crossroads for seasonal visitors
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00:26:28,578 --> 00:26:33,740
and arctic specialists. But
they are so much more than this.
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00:26:34,000 --> 00:26:38,366
Together, they make up the
taiga, an unbroken belt of forest
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00:26:38,378 --> 00:26:42,540
that stretches 7,000 miles
around our planet and contains
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00:26:42,540 --> 00:26:45,440
one-third of all the trees on Earth.
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00:26:55,280 --> 00:26:59,494
The taiga forest marks the
end of our journey through the
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Arctic, from the frozen ocean
down across the lands that
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00:27:03,660 --> 00:27:04,440
surround it.
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00:27:12,240 --> 00:27:16,848
The other end of our
planet, the Antarctic, is starkly
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different, a frozen continent
completely surrounded by
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00:27:21,480 --> 00:27:22,100
ocean.
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00:27:24,560 --> 00:27:28,832
Icebergs here are so large
that they're measured in miles,
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00:27:28,844 --> 00:27:33,200
not meters. They're the only
obstacles in the path of giant
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00:27:33,200 --> 00:27:37,740
waves which circle around the
continent unchecked by other lands.
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00:27:51,820 --> 00:27:58,160
These seas may be cold and storm-wracked,
but they're bursting with life.
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00:28:27,500 --> 00:28:32,840
No bird is more at home in water,
and they are masterful surfers.
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00:28:38,540 --> 00:28:43,351
Penguins are found only in
the southern hemisphere. They
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00:28:43,363 --> 00:28:48,440
can't fly, but they don't need
to. There are no polar bears
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00:28:48,440 --> 00:28:49,260
here.
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00:28:57,320 --> 00:29:01,469
These are gentoo penguins.
Each spring, they come ashore
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00:29:01,481 --> 00:29:05,860
to lay their eggs and rear
their young. Their hungry chicks
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00:29:05,860 --> 00:29:09,620
demand so much seafood that
both parents have to go fishing.
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00:29:15,140 --> 00:29:18,840
And fishing can be dangerous.
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00:29:32,900 --> 00:29:36,000
A southern sea lion.
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00:29:40,920 --> 00:29:46,520
It uses the speed of a breaking
wave to catch up with the gentoos.
229
00:30:00,560 --> 00:30:04,407
Sea lions normally eat
fish, so he's used to catching
230
00:30:04,419 --> 00:30:08,420
streamlined swimmers. But
the gentoo seem more than his
231
00:30:08,420 --> 00:30:11,180
match out at sea. He must change tactics.
232
00:30:16,500 --> 00:30:19,360
Perhaps it will be easier in the shallows.
233
00:30:40,880 --> 00:30:45,240
But no, it seems penguins
are uncatchable in water.
234
00:30:51,100 --> 00:30:56,148
How about on land? The
penguin's wings, so powerful for
235
00:30:56,160 --> 00:31:01,220
swimming, are of no help
when it comes to running. Now,
236
00:31:01,240 --> 00:31:03,420
surely, the sea lion has a chance.
237
00:31:08,080 --> 00:31:12,100
But on the beach, both
are like fish out of water.
238
00:32:17,460 --> 00:32:23,780
Every summer, over 40 million penguins
take to the southern ocean to feed.
239
00:32:28,880 --> 00:32:34,561
They're joined by thousands
of whales. Minkies are the most
240
00:32:34,573 --> 00:32:40,360
numerous. They all come here
to harvest the richest ocean on
241
00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:48,740
earth. Carrying on south, we get our
first glimpse of the frozen continent.
242
00:33:02,980 --> 00:33:07,031
Southern humpbacks, after
traveling 4,000 miles from
243
00:33:07,043 --> 00:33:10,800
the equator, are finally
arriving in Antarctica.
244
00:33:15,780 --> 00:33:19,594
Humans have long felt the
lure of this mysterious world,
245
00:33:19,606 --> 00:33:23,700
yet it was only a hundred
years ago that the first explorers
246
00:33:23,700 --> 00:33:26,995
walked inland and
were confronted by the
247
00:33:27,007 --> 00:33:30,960
highest, driest, and
coldest territory on earth.
248
00:33:35,300 --> 00:33:39,098
Every year, the continent
is transformed as the
249
00:33:39,110 --> 00:33:42,840
sea ice that surrounds
it begins to disappear.
250
00:33:50,640 --> 00:33:56,239
This melt halves the size
of Antarctica. It's the most
251
00:33:56,251 --> 00:34:01,760
spectacular seasonal change
occurring anywhere on our
252
00:34:01,760 --> 00:34:02,140
planet.
253
00:34:05,980 --> 00:34:09,005
The remnants of the
sea ice are occupied by
254
00:34:09,017 --> 00:34:12,400
sunbathing seals that
have been here all winter.
255
00:34:15,720 --> 00:34:18,995
But new arrivals are
following the retreating
256
00:34:19,007 --> 00:34:22,080
ice edge, and they
have come here to hunt.
257
00:34:29,220 --> 00:34:33,536
Killer whales, the ocean's
top predator. Killers are
258
00:34:33,548 --> 00:34:38,120
like wolves, for they will
hunt animals far larger than
259
00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:42,840
themselves. But even smaller prey
are a problem if you can't reach them.
260
00:34:48,220 --> 00:34:51,040
The solution is teamwork.
261
00:34:53,940 --> 00:34:57,399
Swimming in perfect
formation, they flick their tails
262
00:34:57,411 --> 00:35:00,560
in unison and create a
wave that cranks the ice.
263
00:35:08,160 --> 00:35:14,100
They regroup and assess the damage.
A more powerful wave is needed.
264
00:35:19,360 --> 00:35:24,728
The ice flow is breaking up.
Now they're close enough to get
265
00:35:24,740 --> 00:35:30,120
a good look at their target.
The seal is a crab eater, sharp
266
00:35:30,120 --> 00:35:32,900
-toothed and feisty. Not their favorite.
267
00:35:36,820 --> 00:35:41,560
The wolves of the sea move
on in search of easier quarry.
268
00:35:45,460 --> 00:35:52,220
A whittle seal, that's better. These
are more docile and easier to tackle.
269
00:35:55,220 --> 00:35:58,980
The pod stays close
together and travels silently.
270
00:36:01,280 --> 00:36:07,020
This time, they unleash a far more powerful
wave, and with astonishing accuracy.
271
00:36:14,320 --> 00:36:17,856
These big waves are not
intended to break the ice, but
272
00:36:17,868 --> 00:36:21,480
to knock the prey into the
water. And they rarely fail.
273
00:37:07,020 --> 00:37:12,433
The seal is now where the
killers want it. But the hunt
274
00:37:12,445 --> 00:37:18,160
is far from over. They need
to grab their prey by the tail
275
00:37:18,160 --> 00:37:21,563
while avoiding its
snapping jaws. Only then
276
00:37:21,575 --> 00:37:25,300
will they be able to
pull it down and drown it.
277
00:37:28,460 --> 00:37:33,120
Side swipes create violent
underwater turbulence, a new tactic.
278
00:37:40,560 --> 00:37:45,040
Blowing bubbles gives cover for
others to lunge at the seal's tail.
279
00:37:53,300 --> 00:37:59,760
Somehow the seal manages
to reach a tiny ice floe.
280
00:38:02,280 --> 00:38:07,634
The killers could easily
grab it, but now this seems to
281
00:38:07,646 --> 00:38:13,300
become a game. The seal's
life hangs on a roll of the ice.
282
00:38:24,980 --> 00:38:28,940
Yet again, the pod joins
forces to dislodge the seal.
283
00:38:46,720 --> 00:38:49,780
The seal sees a chance to escape.
284
00:38:54,000 --> 00:38:57,435
Exhausted, it no longer
has the energy to pull
285
00:38:57,447 --> 00:39:01,040
itself to safety. And
the killers are moving in.
286
00:39:09,180 --> 00:39:11,340
Game over.
287
00:39:23,400 --> 00:39:27,229
Although such team hunts are
rarely seen, scientists believe
288
00:39:27,241 --> 00:39:31,020
they may be the most complex
ever documented in the natural
289
00:39:31,020 --> 00:39:35,200
world. They were first witnessed
by Captain Scott and his
290
00:39:35,212 --> 00:39:39,260
men when they came to
explore Antarctica 100 years ago.
291
00:39:43,300 --> 00:39:46,807
Journeying further south,
the fragmenting ice is replaced
292
00:39:46,819 --> 00:39:50,520
by a permanent sheet that
doesn't melt even at the height of
293
00:39:50,520 --> 00:39:56,160
summer. It's a barrier that
many creatures find impossible.
294
00:39:58,600 --> 00:40:02,627
It repels even powerful minke
whales. They have to turn back
295
00:40:02,639 --> 00:40:06,480
if they can no longer reach
the air they need to breathe.
296
00:40:13,700 --> 00:40:19,264
Under the ice, life has to
be extremely specialized to
297
00:40:19,276 --> 00:40:25,460
survive. Few of us will ever
experience this strangely still
298
00:40:25,460 --> 00:40:30,200
world. And as yet, no
one knows much about it.
299
00:40:34,720 --> 00:40:38,841
The crystalline surface of
the ice stalactites provides
300
00:40:38,853 --> 00:40:43,060
a home for ice fish whose
bodies are full of antifreeze.
301
00:40:47,180 --> 00:40:51,564
The ceiling of ice shields
those living below it from the
302
00:40:51,576 --> 00:40:55,820
violent polar weather that
rages above. Little here has
303
00:40:55,820 --> 00:40:57,980
changed for millions of years.
304
00:41:01,240 --> 00:41:06,560
The cold allows animals to grow
very slowly and become giants.
305
00:41:21,980 --> 00:41:27,891
The relative of the woodlouse
is the size of a dinner plate.
306
00:41:27,903 --> 00:41:33,340
And this so-called sea
spider has legs that span half a
307
00:41:33,340 --> 00:41:33,700
meter.
308
00:41:37,480 --> 00:41:43,040
Now, explorers are revealing other worlds
that lie hidden beneath the ice on land.
309
00:41:46,140 --> 00:41:51,500
These smoking towers are the
gateway to a network of caves.
310
00:41:54,480 --> 00:42:00,820
Each contains an extraordinary assembly
of ice crystals unlike any other on earth.
311
00:42:08,060 --> 00:42:11,820
Like snowflakes, every crystal is unique.
312
00:42:14,580 --> 00:42:16,500
Some are taller than a man.
313
00:42:19,700 --> 00:42:24,785
Others are thought to harbor
life seeded by strange bacteria
314
00:42:24,797 --> 00:42:29,560
that thrive in these extreme
conditions. The breeze that
315
00:42:29,560 --> 00:42:33,894
gently sways these crystals
is responsible for making them.
316
00:42:33,906 --> 00:42:38,180
It's steam from the molten
heart of Mount Erebus, the most
317
00:42:38,180 --> 00:42:40,540
southerly volcano on our planet.
318
00:42:52,100 --> 00:42:56,251
It's now thought that the
ice caves fringing this crater
319
00:42:56,263 --> 00:43:00,060
may even be a home for
hitherto unknown life forms.
320
00:43:05,040 --> 00:43:08,018
From this oasis of warmth at
the edge of the continent, our
321
00:43:08,030 --> 00:43:10,920
journey continues inland to
the far east. We head towards
322
00:43:10,920 --> 00:43:14,629
the South Pole. The
first great hurdle is the
323
00:43:14,641 --> 00:43:18,120
formidable trans-Antarctic
mountain range.
324
00:43:21,080 --> 00:43:24,527
We're following the route
taken by Scott and Amundsen as
325
00:43:24,539 --> 00:43:28,180
they struggle to become the
first humans to reach the South
326
00:43:28,180 --> 00:43:28,600
Pole.
327
00:43:33,520 --> 00:43:37,340
They were traveling on foot,
and their first sight of these
328
00:43:37,352 --> 00:43:41,120
mountains must have been
daunting indeed. In front of them
329
00:43:41,120 --> 00:43:44,591
stretched one of the world's
longest ranges, spanning
330
00:43:44,603 --> 00:43:48,280
2,000 miles from one side
of the continent to the other.
331
00:43:52,020 --> 00:43:57,340
The winds up here are the fastest on earth.
They reach speeds of 200 miles an hour.
332
00:44:00,540 --> 00:44:04,460
An ice-capped mountain
bears the scars of the
333
00:44:04,472 --> 00:44:08,660
gales, bizarre sculptures
carved from solid ice.
334
00:44:19,220 --> 00:44:24,531
It's not only the ice that
yields. This sculptured spire
335
00:44:24,543 --> 00:44:29,960
is the remnant of a mountain
eroded from all sides by the
336
00:44:29,960 --> 00:44:31,200
ferocious elements.
337
00:44:34,880 --> 00:44:39,800
Beyond, a wholly unexpected
landscape, the dry valleys.
338
00:44:46,520 --> 00:44:52,920
Only 1% of Antarctica is free of
ice, and most of that bare rock is here.
339
00:45:00,560 --> 00:45:05,840
The dry valleys are more like the surface
of Mars than is any other place on earth.
340
00:45:13,920 --> 00:45:17,925
The floor is covered with
extraordinary natural sculptures,
341
00:45:17,937 --> 00:45:21,820
created by the same winds
that help to keep these valleys
342
00:45:21,820 --> 00:45:22,760
free of snow.
343
00:45:26,720 --> 00:45:29,995
Over time, entire boulders
are weathered from
344
00:45:30,007 --> 00:45:33,080
the inside out until
just a shell remains.
345
00:45:37,600 --> 00:45:42,300
At the head of these valleys,
ice is making a breakthrough.
346
00:45:45,360 --> 00:45:50,020
Millions of tons are tumbling
in slow motion into the valley.
347
00:46:01,220 --> 00:46:05,700
These ice blocks are
the size of skyscrapers.
348
00:46:11,840 --> 00:46:15,537
And this is the
Beardmoor glacier, which
349
00:46:15,549 --> 00:46:19,620
Scott and his men
somehow traversed on foot.
350
00:46:22,600 --> 00:46:28,600
It's over 100 miles long and one
of the largest glaciers on earth.
351
00:46:33,660 --> 00:46:36,350
But nothing could have
prepared those early
352
00:46:36,362 --> 00:46:39,370
explorers for what they
were about to encounter.
353
00:46:46,110 --> 00:46:51,837
The Antarctic ice cap, the
largest expanse of ice on the
354
00:46:51,849 --> 00:46:57,790
planet. It's three miles thick
in places and imprisons 70%
355
00:46:57,790 --> 00:46:59,890
of the world's fresh water.
356
00:47:02,610 --> 00:47:09,190
From here to the South Pole, 700
miles away, there is nothing but ice.
357
00:47:20,590 --> 00:47:25,849
I'm at the South Pole at the
end of my journey. Although
358
00:47:25,861 --> 00:47:31,410
it's mid-summer, the temperature
here is a bone-chilling 35
359
00:47:31,410 --> 00:47:36,266
degrees below freezing. It's
exactly 100 years, almost the
360
00:47:36,278 --> 00:47:41,310
day, that the first human
being saw ice. I stood right here,
361
00:47:41,630 --> 00:47:46,732
Amundsen followed by Scott.
In those days, reaching the
362
00:47:46,744 --> 00:47:51,950
poles was regarded as the
ultimate in human endeavor and
363
00:47:51,950 --> 00:47:56,998
endurance and a source of
great national pride. Today, the
364
00:47:57,010 --> 00:48:02,070
polar regions have a rather
different significance because
365
00:48:02,070 --> 00:48:06,798
now we've come to understand
that what happens here and in
366
00:48:06,810 --> 00:48:11,550
the North affects every one
of us, no matter where we live
367
00:48:11,550 --> 00:48:12,890
on this planet.
368
00:48:42,130 --> 00:48:45,882
The greatest challenge for
the team-making frozen planet
369
00:48:45,894 --> 00:48:49,790
was the extreme remoteness
of their locations. Many of the
370
00:48:49,790 --> 00:48:54,390
shoots lasted months at a time and
needed a number of crews to join forces.
371
00:48:57,050 --> 00:49:01,438
One location that would
require such siege tactics was
372
00:49:01,450 --> 00:49:06,330
Mount Erebus, Antarctica's
most active volcano. This magical
373
00:49:06,330 --> 00:49:08,930
mountain does not give
up her secrets easily.
374
00:49:14,910 --> 00:49:17,912
To capture the full story
of Mount Erebus from
375
00:49:17,924 --> 00:49:21,130
top to bottom required
four different film crews.
376
00:49:24,390 --> 00:49:28,690
The cave team has dropped off
at 12,000 feet close to the crater.
377
00:49:32,830 --> 00:49:37,464
In howling winds and thin
oxygen, their challenge is to find
378
00:49:37,476 --> 00:49:41,970
a way into the volcano itself.
They are venturing into the
379
00:49:41,970 --> 00:49:46,737
unknown. Somewhere below
are spectacular ice caves melted
380
00:49:46,749 --> 00:49:51,610
out by volcanic steam. Getting
the team safely underground
381
00:49:51,610 --> 00:49:55,575
is a relief for director Chad
and Hunter. Excellent, it's a
382
00:49:55,587 --> 00:49:59,630
lot warmer down here. It's
freezing up there, minus 29. With
383
00:49:59,630 --> 00:50:03,828
him is cameraman Gavin
Thurston. You sort of forget being in
384
00:50:03,840 --> 00:50:08,050
here. You are actually inside a
volcano. You know, above us,
385
00:50:08,250 --> 00:50:10,940
there's, and below us, there's
bubbling lava. And you've got
386
00:50:10,952 --> 00:50:13,610
all these gases seeping up
through here, which is how these
387
00:50:13,610 --> 00:50:17,575
caves are made. So there's
also increased carbon dioxide in
388
00:50:17,587 --> 00:50:21,630
here. As the cave team head
deeper, dangerous volcanic gases
389
00:50:21,630 --> 00:50:25,086
made breathing difficult.
The clock is ticking. They
390
00:50:25,098 --> 00:50:28,370
will not have long to
find the caves of crystals.
391
00:50:31,410 --> 00:50:35,778
Above ground, the aerial team
is pushing for the summit of
392
00:50:35,790 --> 00:50:40,170
Erebus. Series producer
Vanessa Berlowitz directs from the
393
00:50:40,170 --> 00:50:43,511
front seat, while aerial
cameraman Michael Kellum controls
394
00:50:43,523 --> 00:50:46,990
the camera attached to the
nose. We're going to be around 14
395
00:50:46,990 --> 00:50:50,357
,000 feet. We're going to be
at the performance limits of
396
00:50:50,369 --> 00:50:53,690
this aircraft. Any bad weather
comes in up there, you're
397
00:50:53,690 --> 00:50:56,684
pretty much screwed really.
You've got to get off the
398
00:50:56,696 --> 00:50:59,870
mountain fast. Above 10,000
feet, the pilot must breathe
399
00:50:59,870 --> 00:51:04,144
oxygen through a plastic
tube in his nostrils. Approaching
400
00:51:04,156 --> 00:51:08,370
the crater, conditions do not
look good. Today, Erebus is
401
00:51:08,370 --> 00:51:12,562
belching out steam and gases,
making flying extremely risky.
402
00:51:12,574 --> 00:51:16,710
Up here, the air is so thin,
the helicopter can't hover and
403
00:51:16,710 --> 00:51:21,320
must keep moving.
This is aerial filming at its
404
00:51:21,332 --> 00:51:26,050
most extreme. They
struggle to get a clear view.
405
00:51:29,210 --> 00:51:34,070
We're just coming up to 14,000 feet. You
can actually look right into the lava lake.
406
00:51:37,010 --> 00:51:40,288
That's looking really good,
Mike. Just hold that there. The
407
00:51:40,300 --> 00:51:43,590
cameraman captures a rare
shot of the molten lava, but it's
408
00:51:43,590 --> 00:51:44,810
soon obscured again.
409
00:51:49,050 --> 00:51:52,862
The volcano is temperamental.
The team have seized a rare
410
00:51:52,874 --> 00:51:56,830
opportunity to see into its
molten heart. But now they must
411
00:51:56,830 --> 00:52:00,721
descend to safety. As
the weather closes in
412
00:52:00,733 --> 00:52:04,990
above, the cave team
are making progress below.
413
00:52:12,190 --> 00:52:15,970
It's Christmas Day, and the
crew are dressed for the occasion.
414
00:52:19,310 --> 00:52:22,530
Just watch my back on these icicles.
I don't want to snap that top one off.
415
00:52:25,690 --> 00:52:29,975
Right, how strong are these
pillars of ice, Matt? How big
416
00:52:29,987 --> 00:52:34,210
a round is it? It's about
that round, about five. Really
417
00:52:34,210 --> 00:52:37,563
strong. So if I squeeze
past, it's not going to snap
418
00:52:37,575 --> 00:52:40,940
it. Gavin is reassured by
advice from the scientist.
419
00:52:49,930 --> 00:52:52,977
I'm sorry. It's
terrible. Oh, look. You
420
00:52:52,989 --> 00:52:56,430
know, it fits perfectly,
look. Look at that.
421
00:53:00,410 --> 00:53:04,272
Fortunately, these crystals
are made of frozen water and
422
00:53:04,284 --> 00:53:08,430
can grow back in weeks. Got
these beautiful clear glass-like
423
00:53:08,430 --> 00:53:11,045
pillars. And right
next to it, this really
424
00:53:11,057 --> 00:53:13,990
delicate, look how thin
that filament is there.
425
00:53:16,970 --> 00:53:20,480
As the cave team explore
deeper, each chamber reveals
426
00:53:20,492 --> 00:53:24,210
ice crystals more strange
and spectacular than the last.
427
00:53:28,610 --> 00:53:31,506
No one on the team
imagined a single Antarctic
428
00:53:31,518 --> 00:53:33,870
mountain could house
so many wonders.
429
00:53:38,150 --> 00:53:41,760
Down at the foot of Mount
Erebus, a third crew, the dive
430
00:53:41,772 --> 00:53:45,330
team, plan to explore the
volcano's lower slopes, which
431
00:53:45,330 --> 00:53:48,774
extend beneath the frozen
sea. On board is underwater
432
00:53:48,786 --> 00:53:52,690
cameraman Hugh Miller. The
problem is we don't actually know
433
00:53:52,690 --> 00:53:57,247
what's under the ice here,
so who knows? It's a bit of an
434
00:53:57,259 --> 00:54:01,750
adventure. Old-fashioned
tools still work best. First, a
435
00:54:01,750 --> 00:54:06,398
hand chisel to create an
opening, then a saw to widen the
436
00:54:06,410 --> 00:54:11,230
hole. Ice diving in the coldest
waters on the planet should
437
00:54:11,230 --> 00:54:16,150
be taken extremely seriously.
This dive's going to be a lot
438
00:54:16,162 --> 00:54:20,930
of things. Warm is not on
that list. Insulated suits will
439
00:54:20,930 --> 00:54:24,658
keep them alive under the
ice for only 60 minutes. Once
440
00:54:24,670 --> 00:54:28,210
the helicopter departs,
there's no margin for error.
441
00:54:32,810 --> 00:54:36,083
The dive team begin to
explore the lower slopes of
442
00:54:36,095 --> 00:54:39,830
Erebus, discovering a hidden
world rarely seen by humans.
443
00:54:42,830 --> 00:54:47,152
Patrolling the icy shores of
the volcano are killer whales,
444
00:54:47,164 --> 00:54:51,570
the most southerly in the world.
Trekking them from above is
445
00:54:51,570 --> 00:54:52,650
the orca team.
446
00:54:55,470 --> 00:54:58,047
They need a helicopter
to get ahead of the
447
00:54:58,059 --> 00:55:00,950
whales and to land them
on the fragile sea ice.
448
00:55:03,630 --> 00:55:07,077
Cameraman Jamie McPherson
must pick his spot carefully. His
449
00:55:07,089 --> 00:55:10,490
aim is to get the cameras
as close to the killer whales as
450
00:55:10,490 --> 00:55:13,210
possible without disturbing them.
451
00:55:16,190 --> 00:55:19,490
He uses a film camera to
capture the action in slow motion.
452
00:55:27,050 --> 00:55:32,643
And the orcas come right by
him. Even in the extreme cold,
453
00:55:32,655 --> 00:55:38,070
a film camera proves to be
rugged and reliable, provided
454
00:55:38,070 --> 00:55:39,710
there's enough film in the camera.
455
00:55:42,870 --> 00:55:44,350
End of the rock. No!
456
00:55:47,030 --> 00:55:49,990
I got him coming out, I just
didn't get him going back in.
457
00:55:58,090 --> 00:56:02,005
Below the sea ice, the dive
team is setting up an underwater
458
00:56:02,017 --> 00:56:05,750
studio. Using a range of
waterproof lights and time-lapse
459
00:56:05,750 --> 00:56:10,710
cameras, they hope to capture the growth
of bizarre underwater ice formations.
460
00:56:18,630 --> 00:56:22,496
Over the coming weeks, the
dive team would go below the ice
461
00:56:22,508 --> 00:56:26,450
over 100 times to film the
extraordinary secret world on the
462
00:56:26,450 --> 00:56:31,395
lower flanks of Mount Erebus.
On top of the ice, the orca
463
00:56:31,407 --> 00:56:36,450
team has repositioned. Their
new goal is to get underwater
464
00:56:36,450 --> 00:56:38,677
shots of the whales. They
don't dare to get in the water
465
00:56:38,689 --> 00:56:40,850
with orcas because they're
afraid of them. With orcas,
466
00:56:41,230 --> 00:56:44,130
attaching a camera to
a pole is a safer option,
467
00:56:44,142 --> 00:56:46,690
provided the whales
aren't put off by it.
468
00:56:51,830 --> 00:56:55,370
No one is prepared for what happens next.
469
00:57:02,030 --> 00:57:04,170
The entire pod arrives.
470
00:57:10,690 --> 00:57:11,950
Riddle it.
471
00:57:22,690 --> 00:57:26,552
Eyeball to eyeball, this
is about as close to killer
472
00:57:26,564 --> 00:57:30,950
whales as it's possible to get.
By using multiple crews and
473
00:57:30,950 --> 00:57:34,606
cameras, the frozen planet
team have been able to capture
474
00:57:34,618 --> 00:57:38,350
the full Erebus story, from
the fire at its crater down to
475
00:57:38,350 --> 00:57:42,578
the whales that patrol
its frozen shores. It's quite
476
00:57:42,590 --> 00:57:46,510
a privilege to feel a
whale breath on your face.
44267
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