All language subtitles for Hidden Canary Islands 2022-subrip

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They exist
at the threshold of history

on the precipice of a dream.

Rising out of the ocean
almost without warning,

endless golden beaches leading
to lush vivant rainforests,

and then sliding into another
world of almost barren terrain.

This almost insane combination
of topography

melds a continent's worth
of landscapes, temperatures,

culture and experiences,

and it's all within
eight small islands.

I came here in search of history
of culture and tradition,

unchanged by travel
or travelers.

These are the islands
in the stream

separated from
the rest of the world

and yet accessible
to those who know.

And a destination
where you can explore,

immerse, and literally breathe
if Mother Nature lets you.

I'm Peter Greenberg and
this is Hidden Canary Islands.

They were formed
millions of years ago

as the violent volcanic forces
of the earth

fought their way out
of the depths of the ocean

and broke free to the surface,

birthing one by one
an archipelago

70 miles off the
northwest coast of Africa.

An entirely new land
untouched by civilization.

Though the forces of humankind
would eventually prove to be

just as powerful as nature

in shaping these
islands' destinies.

It's believed the first
human settlers

paddled over from Africa
around 2,000 years ago

and slowly spread across
all of the islands.

But it was in the 1400s

with the bloody arrival
of the Spanish conquerors

that the modern course
of the Canary Islands was set.

By the end of the 15th Century,
they became part of Spain

making Spanish
the language of the land.

And it was Christopher Columbus'

last port of call
before setting out

to accidentally discover
a new world,

intrinsically linking
the Canaries and the Caribbean

and eventually making
the islands a jumping off point

for travel to the Americas.

But ironically,
today the Canary Islands

are a mystery to most travelers

who are unfamiliar
with their location.

Or even the meaning of the name
derived not from the bird,

but from the Latin word
for dog, canarius

Because of its location and
year-round tempered climate,

it's a regular vacation
destination for many Europeans.

But as you look closer
at these islands

past the beaches and resorts,
you find rich cultures

shaped by the diverse blend
of its residents

who think of themselves

as having a European mind
and a Caribbean soul.

I started my journey near
the middle of the archipelago

in Tenerife.

This is the largest
of the Canary Islands

and the most populated.

It exemplifies
the Canary's reputation

for permanent good weather,

earning the nickname
the Island of Eternal Spring.

It's the most visited island

and has sometimes been called
the Cancun of Europe.

Travelers hopping
on a short flight

head directly
for a beachside hotel.

And as beautiful
as those beaches are,

some sandy gold,

some black from
the volcanic soil,

that's not where you're going
to find the soul of Tenerife.

It's in the land
outside of the capital.

And in Tenerife it's not just
what's on the island,

but what surrounds the island.

It's the ocean.

You can whale watch here

and there are companies
that will do that for visitors.

But you can find
a more private experience,

one with a purpose.

With her company
Whale Wise Eco Tours,

Mercedes Reyes
brings travelers to these waters

west of Tenerife,

an area officially accredited
as a whale heritage site.

It's a program that
recognizes destinations

that practice responsible
and sustainable whale watching.

Piece of cake.

Right there.
There they are.

Right there.

For Mercedes,
that means powering a boat

with as small of a footprint
as possible.

Her boats are equipped with
a combination of solar panels

and low CO2
and electric engines

in addition to cameras

and a whole array
of state-of-the-art technology.

Even with all that equipment,

you never know where you're
going to find the whales.

Yeah.

For that we need our eyes.

One third of all the whales
and dolphins

of the species of the world
come to swim here.

We are next
to a main migration route,

a main current of the ocean.

Everybody's coming
through here.

Everybody's coming.

We are the nice restaurant
in the middle of the highway.

-Oh.
-Right here.

-Look at this.
-A mom and a baby.

-You can't beat that.
-Yeah.

And today, the first
animals we spotted

were dolphins.

Right there.
Right there.

-Right there.
-Here they come.

Here they come.
Whoa!

Hello.
They came to say hi.

Yeah, they're
playing with us now.

As we approach the spot

where the whales
frequently hunt for squid,

you just shut the engine down
and o into electric.

The silence takes over,
and then listen for the sound

of the water spouting
from the whales.

And you look for the fins
breaking the surface.

That's the only sound you hear.

Look Peter, there they are.

Right straight ahead.

-A whole pod of whales.
-I see them.

They just came
out of the water right there.

Yeah, they're resting
on the water.

Do you see them?

This is not just
a typical tourist photo op.

You're part of something
bigger than that.

You're an active part
of a research operation here.

We are collecting data
for many projects here,

for the government
and our own projects.

Basically, there's so much
things that we want to do,

but we're focusing
on conservation first.

As part
of the data collection,

you even get the chance
to eavesdrop

on the whale's conversation.

This is a hydrophone.

It's going to pick up
the sounds of the whales,

and now we can listen.

Did you hear that?

-Yeah.
-Yeah.

Are those the juveniles talking?

Yeah, on the--

When they repeat the signal,
it could be mother calling.

It's a whale boombox.

Yes.

And I think they're
even calling my name.

So, we headed back
near the shore

where it was safer for me
and the animals.

So, I could take
a closer look...

at the wildlife in this amazing
underwater world.

But the true surprise
of Tenerife

is actually an unavoidable one.

Just about everywhere
you are: on the water,

at the beach, in the forest,
you find yourself looking up

at the largest
mountain in Spain.

This is Mount Tada.

It soars so high that a sea
of clouds forms below it.

And it's the central feature
of Teide National Park,

the source of the
untouched lava flows,

hardening and
layering together

to create this
stunning landscape.

It is this alien-like terrain

that has made
Teide National Park

the most visited site
in the Canarys.

But the locals know when to go.

That's when the sunsets
and the tourists leave.

By day, it's imposing,

but by night
it hides a bigger secret.

This is an
officially designated

starlight destination
and reserve.

One of the finest places
on Earth

to view the clear, dark skies.

-It's so quiet.
-Yes.

End of the day, we can
discover the sound of silence.

Juan La Dezma,
a local astronomy teacher,

brought me to
a quiet pocket of the park

called the San Jose Mines,

where the terrain
transports you to other worlds.

This is really about as close
as you can get to a moonscape.

Or even Mars?

The landscape
of a national park

is so similar to Mars

that they field tested
the Rovers here

preparing to explore
the distant red planet.

But here, the celestial bodies
feel very close.

The day has gone and we can
see Venus and Jupiter,

two planets overhead.

With the naked eye?

Naked eye, of course.

And Juan had
an array of technology

astronomical binoculars.

Oh my god.

A specialized
astrophotography camera.

So, you could see
all the craters.

Yeah.

And even some
of the old seas, right?

Yes, around the craters.

A Dobsonian telescope,

optimized for viewing
faint distant objects.

Tonight, we can
see planet Jupiter.

It's amazing
because it's like a bright dot.

Oh, yeah!

Yeah, in the center
of the eyepiece.

Where we are right now
is ideal for dark sky viewing.

Yes.

Most of the days
we have clear skies.

In this one spot,
you can see

the majority of
the 88 constellations

both northern and southern
hemispheres.

And mostly everything else
in the heavens as well.

The International Space Station
is just rising from the south.

There it goes.

He's moving fast.

He's moving so fast, about
15,000 miles an hour or so.

It never gets old, right?

No.

What are the lessons
that you learned here?

When you come out here,
what has it taught you?

We are not in the center
of the universe.

We must be humble.

Once you put it
in perspective,

you realize how small
you really are.

Just a short plane ride away
is a continent in miniature,

Gran Canaria.

From the moment you land,

you can't miss
the different landscapes,

micro climates,
and yes, different cultures.

You can attend
a symphony in the city

while just a few miles away
residents are living in caves,

keeping old traditions alive.

What sets Gran Canaria apart

is the cosmopolitan capital
of Las Palmas,

the most populated city
in the Canarys.

In one corner of the city
is the old town neighborhood,

Vegueta.

Here the Spanish influence
is so strong

it feels like you're walking
through a European city.

And who better to be my guide

than someone born
and raised here,

like Germán Lopez
who has gone on to become

a world-renowned musician.

I think to grow up in a
place like this is very special

because you have--

At the same you live in
a small town, in a small place,

but the Canary Islands
are very connected

with Europe and America.

So, you live in a small place,
but your influences are huge.

The timple was born
out of the Canarys,

as is the music
Germán plays on it.

The islands inspire him
as a performer.

And even though
he travels the world,

he always comes back home.

I play the timple, a small
guitar, a local instrument,

but the music I feel
is international music.

He took me to one
of his favorite places,

Santana Square.

This is one of the most
beautiful places in the city

and look at this,
our cathedral.

Wow, what a building.

Yeah, it's wonderful.

And tucked
around the corner

is a sign of great significance
to us here in the Americas.

This is a very important
building in this city

because it's the last place

where Christopher Columbus
left to the New World.

This is the last place
he was?

Yeah.

So this is very important for us
and it's a very beautiful one.

It's magnificent.

Yeah.

But it has a different
significance for Germán.

This was the location
of his first concert.

And since he takes his
instrument everywhere he goes,

it was only fitting
for a repeat performance.

You know that
the first time I never forget.

The music that comes out

of the small, little
string instrument is delicate.

It's soothing.

It's enchanting.

And then you give it
a sense of place

as to where you're
listening to it in

and it takes on new meaning.

That was beautiful.

Thank you very much.

Germán has been a gifted
player since he was a child,

but you're never too old
to start learning.

Okay, I put it on.

When I look through your eyes,

I know that you are
a great musician.

Try it.

A duet?

Let's go.

Wow!

Did I do okay?

Yeah, you're a great student.

You are a great student.

My best.

Total liar.

On the outskirts
if Las Palmas

is an unusual urban beach.

A two-mile stretch
of golden sand

lined by a boardwalk
full of cafes and restaurants.

Here's where you'll find
the long-time locals

mixed in with the newly arrived
digital nomads,

who discovered they could
work from anywhere

and also play from right here.

We decided that living
in a city

and being sucked down
to one place

when you could be out there
on the beach.

It's a small town neighborhood
of Las Palmas

where everybody's
connecting to the beach.

Is connected to the lifestyle.

Is connecting to the surf.

Born and raised
steps away from the beach,

Guillermo Morales Mateos knows
just about everybody here

and he also knows
what attracts them.

This beach
is unique in the world

because we are the reef barrier.

When the low tide goes down,

it's like
a massive swimming pool.

Guillermohas created the
perfect lifestyle for himself:

to work and play
all at the same time

running paddle board classes.

If you want the best experience
on Gran Canaria,

all you have to do is ask.

Meet the locals,
meet the culture.

We have the beach,
we have the people.

People from Gran Canaria and
under the whole Canary Islands

have a really warm heart.

They will hug you,
they will kiss you,

and yes, it's the place to be.

It's the place to be.

Well, it's certainly one
of the places to be out here,

on El Hierro.

It feels like you've reached
the end of the world.

It's the western most
Canary Island,

the farthest from
mainland Spain,

and it feels remote even
from its neighboring islands.

El Hierro is quiet,
more rural,

but the natural beauty
is no less magnificent.

The gnarled juniper trees
shaped by years of trade winds.

The Bonanza Rock
rising out of the water.

The pathways
winding through forests.

Here at the world's edge
El Hierro is working towards

creating its own
brave new world,

and for all its residents
of all sizes.

The name giant lizards
of El Hierro

may make you think
of something, well giant,

and they are,
relatively speaking.

Roughly three times bigger

than other species
in their lizard family.

But even more remarkable
than their size,

is their comeback story.

Well, the El Hierro lizard
was rediscovered in 1975.

Pretty recent.

Yeah, but they have extinction.

Like a real live
Jurassic Park,

Miguel Rodriguez runs

the Center for the Recovery
of the El Hierro giant lizard.

The mission, to undo
humanity's passed destruction.

The facility is nestled
at the base of the mountains

that the lizards call home.

So, they used
to eat them all.

Yes.

And now?

So, they're eating them?

Yes.

They had once thrived
all over the island.

But in addition to overhunting,

the lizards had their
habitat destroyed

by the Spanish invaders.

They're still endangered?

Yes, of course. Yes.

In 1985 their rescue began.

Using science to make
this nearly extinct species

roam the Earth once again.

Right now, we have an ambitious
recovery program

where we release the lizards
into their former habitats.

Here the lizards are
studied and bred in captivity.

In addition, the Center is
open to the public

so visitors can learn about
the giant lizards

up close and in person.

Okay.

Back at the Center,

I was invited to assist
in the lizard intake process

starting with measuring
and weighing.

Whoa!

It's one thing
to observe an animal.

It's another thing to
participate in its preservation.

4-3-9.

4-3-9, okay.

I've never handled
an animal like that before.

And I certainly had never
inserted an electronic chip

like that before.

How far do I go down?

Behind the skin, okay.

Right there?
Right there?

Yeah, yeah.

Okay.

Okay, perfect.

That's it.
We got it?

Yeah, yeah.

Okay.

It was pretty wild.

Ladies and gentlemen,
lizard GPS.

In Miguel's 25 years
on the island,

he's seen the population
of giant lizards

grow from 100 to 800,

but the work must continue
to make them self-sustaining.

At the moment,
they depend on us.

The idea is that in the future,
they can reproduce on their own

and survive without
the help of humans.

It is the ultimate goal--

To set them free.

As proof the
population is growing,

here's one more lizard that's
ready for life on the outside.

Whoa, he's gone.

The great beauty of El Hierro
is what surrounds it:

endless rugged rock formations,
birthed by lava flows

and shaped by the relentless
pounding waves.

One of the more striking
spots along the water

is called Charcoal Azul,
or Blue Puddle.

An untouched natural pool

protected by lava barriers
from the crashing waters.

Though there are just
a few travelers who've come

to take in the natural beauty,

today, I have my sights
set on a smaller wonder.

And at low tide,
they reveal themselves.

Small sea creatures

scraped from the rocks
by locals.

Alejandro Morales has been
gathering limpets here

all his life and I
wanted to join him.

I mean,
I really wanted to join him

because it was quite
the journey to get to meet him.

A man of few words, but years
of wisdom and experience.

Alejandro led me down to an
even more challenging route

towards the rocks

where we'll finally find
those limpets.

So it's like a clam or a mussel?

It's the mussel.

It's the Hierro.

It's the delicacy.

Oh, just like that?

He's like this.

-Yes.
-Wow!

So you can eat these raw?

Yes, this is very, very sweet.

It's okay?

It's okay.

-Not bad.
-Yes.

On the half shell.

You've heard
of farm to table.

How about rock to table?

Alejandro prepared
a mojo sauce

for an outdoor
grilling experience.

Starting with some garlic,
then parsley,

adding some olive oil.

Then grinding it to a paste,

filling the grill with limpets
and adding the mojo.

And now, you light it up.

Yes, recollection with the--

Already sizzling.

Yeah, it's very, very fast.

That one's good.

Not too hot?

Mmmm.

Wow!

Delicious.

Delicious.

The scallop, it's a mussel,

it's a clam, and it's
right here in El Hierro.

It's the life.

It is the life.

For my next island,

I chose to go by ferry
to La Palma

tucked in the northwest corner
of the archipelago.

As you approach from the east,

the island looks
beautiful and serene.

But hidden behind
the mountain ridge

on the island's western half,

the scene is anything
but peaceful.

Back in 2021,
the initial news reports

were both vivid and shocking.

The first volcanic eruption
in the Canarys in 50 years.

It's awe inspiring
and it's frightening.

But how do you understand this?

Put it in context.

I connected with
local volcanologist,

Merra Sanchez Jiminez.

She's been studying
volcanoes like this for years.

In fact, this is her life.

It's one thing to know that you
are living in a volcanic island.

It's another thing to realize

that you have a volcano
under your feet.

And that volcano is
expanding the size of the island

foot by foot.

It's a marvel
of nature's power

that also brings
great destruction.

Yes, the volcano erupted
in one place

where there are a lot of houses.

More than 1,000 houses
have been destroyed.

But also I think there
are more than 8,000 people

that has been evacuated.

It's one thing
to watch something erupt.

It's another thing to hear it.

People
are really surprised

for the sound of the volcano.

Some say, oh, the volcano is
like boom, boom, boom, boom

all the time.

Is this surprising?

Sometimes.

A little scary.

Yeah.

We don't know
when it is finishing,

but I would like that
the people realize that

the destruction of the volcano,

the consequences and maybe
the opportunity for the future.

And for Nierez,

in addition to learning
about the volcano,

she's also found insight
on the people of La Palma.

When people have
lost everything,

you talk with them
and they still say that,

"Well, things happen and
we have to stand up again

and go on."

So I think this is the
most important thing.

The ash blanketing the
ground has temporarily dulled

some of La Palma's
natural beauty.

Some of the greenest,
luscious areas of the Canarys:

the sloping hills,

the pine trees clinging
to the mountainsides

that contrast
with the barren abysses

on the southern half
of the island.

Atop the mountain ridges,
a series of telescopes

take advantage of La Palma's
minimal light pollution

to scan the heavens

including the largest
optical telescope in the world.

Down by the water,
much of the coastline is rocky,

attracting only
scattered beachgoers.

And overall, La Palma
is one of the least visited

of the Canary Islands

relying heavily on agriculture
for its economy,

an industry heavily impacted
by the recent volcano.

This is amazing.

This is all ash.

Yes, we are nearly

more than six kilometers
from the volcano.

All the days have
something like this,

over the cars,
over the plantation.

The volcano affects
all the island.

But still you're
growing bananas.

Yeah.

Fran Garless is a farmer
at one of La Palma's

5,000 banana plantations,

which account for nearly
30% of the island's economy.

And if you ask the right person,
they're all too happy to share

what makes Canarian bananas

different from any others
in the world.

So, this is all the bananas?

Yes, this is the banana,
under the banana leaves.

One of the biggest leaves
in the Earth.

These plants
needs a lot of water,

about 20 meters per day.

It's a big plant
and grows so quick.

But why do they
grow so well here?

Good sun, good water
and good minerals

for nutrition of the plants.

These bananas are so sweet, so
nutritive bananas and so tasty.

On top of the great
growing conditions,

the bananas require
a little personal care.

And you just might
get enlisted to help.

We need to cut
with a little knife

all these flowers
one by one by one.

One by one?

One by one.

Every banana gets
this personal touch.

And maybe that's why
the people on this island

insist they're the tastiest
bananas in the world.

Though it may also be
because this strain of banana

has a much higher
percentage of sugar.

But these bananas
are also challenged.

All that sweetness disappears

if the banana skin is damaged
by volcanic ash.

We can see the ashes.

We move the plants.

Oh, my goodness.

To fall down.

Does it hurt the bananas?

Yeah.

Destroys the skin.

Normally in this society
we eat by the eyes.

The bananas can have
a lot of damage.

It's not useful for the market.

And the ash
isn't the only problem.

The lava has burned through
hundreds of acres of plantations

and cut off
essential irrigation systems.

The lava destroys
the pipes.

And we haven't got water
in the other side,

then the bananas are so dry.

Between destroyed land
and ruined crops,

the volcano has caused an
estimated 116 million dollars

in damage to La Palma's
banana industry,

affecting one out of every
three plantations.

Be careful with the ashes.

Oh, this is volcanic problems.

If you're
picking bananas,

you're picking ashes too.

Wow.

Yeah.

Sixty kilograms,
so and so about.

No kidding?

For those who depend on
bananas for their livelihood,

they persevere with
their back-breaking work,

even in the face of a volcano.

Thanks, Peter.

Whoa.

The first one.

Okay.

That was one.

Yeah, one of them.

And that is a shower.

Sure.

The hope is that
the ash won't be flowing.

As you're watching this,

there's a good chance
the eruptions may have ended.

But beneath these
natural wonders of La Palma,

there remains a volcano
just waiting to erupt again.

It has always been difficult to
reach the island of La Gomera.

The steep hillsides
that greet you upon arrival

look inhospitable.

And indeed, La Gomera was mostly
cut off from the other islands

and the world at large
until the 1950's

when the construction of a pier
opened the door to travelers.

But the true cultural
distinction of La Gomera

was born out
of its isolation

and distinctly
challenging terrain.

The rugged soaring cliffs
and deep valleys,

they make for
beautiful photo ops,

but imagine what it must have
been like before cell phones

or even landlines
for that matter

to communicate over distances
as far as 3 miles away,

village to village.

Well, that's where
the ancient language

of Silbo Gomera comes in.

There are a handful
of other whistling languages

in the world, but none as
developed as this.

The whistler translates spoken
words into the whistle language.

We are not whistling a code,
but we are whistling in Spanish.

It was very important
to the people on the islands

because it prevented them
from walking long distances.

Things that would take
a two-hour road trip

could now be done
in a matter of seconds.

Juan Manuel teaches

this old traditional
communication artform

to school-kids
all over the island.

The Gomeran whistle is mandatory
in all schools on the island.

From the first grade
of elementary school

to the fourth grade
of high school.

Thanks to that, we have
a high level of whistling

among the students and
a high percentage of whistlers.

I came in just in time

to catch a whistling class
in progress.

And what looks
easy, trust me, it's not.

Form your finger like this.
Okay.

Yes, the lips.

My grandfather.
Mmmmm.

Reach it with the points
more into your mouth.

Uh, like this?

Yeah.

Stop that laughing.

Today those born
before 1950

were taught by
the elders at home.

But due to the advancement
of modern conveniences,

the language almost died out.

It is important
to preserve the whistle.

If we do not teach it
to the younger people today,

the older people, the ones
who still know the whistle,

will eventually disappear
and so will the whistle.

The idea is that
these new generations

will continue to pass
the knowledge

on to the future generations

and thus, preserve this
almost hidden language.

Would you like to say something
in my ear?

Oh, sure.

You have a very
beautiful island.

It's one thing
to make a sound,

it's another thing to understand
what they're saying.

I failed at both.

I am a bad whistler.

If you want to try
your hands and mouth

learning silbo,
there are a few old-timers left

that are all too happy
to show you how it's done,

to learn it and respect it.

Which means?

Do you like Gomera?

Do I like Gomera?

I love Gomera.

All right.

The main activity
on La Gomera is hiking.

And people travel
from all over the world

to explore
Garajonay National Park,

a lush forest blossoming
out of the volcanic soil

and nurtured by the flowing
springs and streams.

La Gomera is pure nature.

It's so clean,
there's no pollution.

And not that many people
know about it.

No, no.

Which is a good thing.

So, this is your special place?

Yes, it's my magic
enchanted forest.

There are very, very few
American expats

on this island.

Karen Sommers is one of them.

She's found her own very special
separate peace here

and she's happy to share it.

Of how a woman from Detroit
shows up as an acupuncturist

in the middle of this island.

About 25 years ago,

I came to visit
my mother on holiday

because my mother's English,
and she was living in Tenerife.

I got to the islands
and they just--

You see the air,
the light.

They're magical.

I just had
to come back and stay.

And you've been here
ever since?

Yes.

Even when I thought okay,
I'm leaving,

I'm going somewhere else,
I always come back.

Within minutes
of talking to her,

you understand completely
why she fell in love here

and even more importantly
why she stays here.

You're always in contact
with nature.

Where I live right now,
it's like five minutes,

I'm on the beach.

Twenty minutes,
I'm up in the mountains.

I'm not here for the night life
or the discotheques.

There's isn't any.

I'm here for this, the nature.

To be able to walk
in the forest.

And what gets me
is the quiet.

There's no sound
other than the stream.

Yeah, exactly.
Exactly.

I mean, stop a second.

That's it.

For Karen, La Gomera
became her destiny,

simple as that.

So, do you know when I was
studying in San Francisco

I used to doodle
all day on my notes?

Palm trees and beaches and I
wanted to go live on an island

where I can go snorkeling
in the morning

and hiking in the afternoon.

And a friend phoned me the other
day I hadn't seen in years

and she said,
"Karen, you did it."

You know what?

I think you did.

I think I did.

I know you did.

Sitting the closest to
Africa's shore is Fuerteventura,

the second largest
of the island.

The locals here will argue that
it's got the finest beaches

in the Canarys.

And if you don't like the beach,
then you better love the desert

because it's everywhere.

The name Fuerteventura
has two accepted translations,

"strong adventure"
fitting for those

who dare to explore
the arid island interior,

or strong wind.

And that wind is used
to drive technology,

both new and old.

At the end of this dusty road

resides a still
functioning windmill,

La Molina Ambasada.

The blades turning
a giant millstone

are used to produce gofio,

a grain roasted and ground
into a toasty flour

that has nourished Canarians
for thousands of years.

The man who owns it is
Francisco Cabrera Oramus,

about the last of his kind.

Being the last and only gofio
windmill owner in the world,

I am the last one who
still maintains

this tradition and legacy.

Francisco has mastered
this century's old technology,

and assisted by Andre Yanku,
he's able to respond perfectly

to the ever-changing winds.

And Francisco does what
he can to bring that wind.

Every time I get
the windmill started,

I pray to God.

I feel there's someone
helping me move forward,

and even giving me good will.

Today most gofio
is made in factories,

but Francisco is dedicated
to preserving the old ways.

I want to share
this legacy

that our ancestors
shared with me

to ensure that it is not lost.

Gofio can be made
with wheat,

but today we're using
locally grown corn.

And before it can be ground,
it first has to be toasted.

But remember, this is old school
using very old school equipment,

all done by hand.

To help heat up the toasting pan
he adds a thin layer of sand.

The sand absorbs humidity
from the minerals.

That's why it's so important.

More, more, more.

Rapido.

Rapido? Okay.

A stir.

Keep stirring because
if not, you'll burn everything.

And this is the last part.

Of course we don't
want to eat the sand.

We want to cook with sand
but not to eat the sand.

A shake....

This is ancient popcorn.

It smells like popcorn.

...and a pour.

Ahh.

I've got two thumbs up now.

There's a lot to be said
for old school.

This is old school on parade.

This is the way they've been
doing it for hundreds of years

and it is nice
to see they still are.

When the wind
is good for grinding,

I load the hopper with grain
and open the shuttle

and the grain starts
feeding down slowly

and falling onto the stone.

And when it is grinding,
I need to touch the gofio

so that I assure it has
the ideal texture.

It's something that I share
with anyone who comes nearby.

And if you time it right,
you might just get dessert.

It's called pella de gofio.

Can put a little bit
stuffing inside.

Add a little water...

That's called
shaking the stomach.

I got it.

Exactly.

...a little oil...

Shaking, shaking, shaking.

...some sugar and here
comes the surprise move.

And this you know
you have to put it on your leg.

You mix it on your leg?

And the heat of your leg,
and so you mix it on your leg.

Oh, wow.

Oooh, my leg
is feeling good.

What is the result
of all this hard work?

My first pella de gofio.

And with a few cuts..

It's sweet.
It's good.

It's sweet, toasted,
it's delicious.

It is toasty.

...it doesn't get
more artisanal

and authentic than this.

The same wind that powers this
mill also endlessly sculpts

the Parque Natural
de las Dunas de Corralejo,

The largest sand dunes
in the Canarys

coming in at more than
6 miles long

and more than a mile
and a half wide.

Rumor has it that the sand
was blown here from Africa

and the Sahara Desert.

That story still remains
an island myth.

Another rumor?

That there's so much sand here,

they invented
another way to use it.

Welcome to lucha canaria

a form of folk wrestling that
exists only in and among

the Canary Islands.

The earliest natives started it

and the first written record of
it was around Columbus' time.

Today, it remains a major draw
amongst the locals.

Right now, it's a big boom.

I went for years
here you might see,

yeah, 200, 300, 400 people
in the match.

And now you can get 3,000,
4,000 people

in the entire stadium.

It's crazy.
It's crazy.

Jake Fuller is one of
those up and coming stars.

Interestingly enough,
not a native Canarian.

My parents
moved here from England

when I was 6 years old.

They used to go to the schools
and they used to do exhibitions

of showing the kids
what lucha canaria is.

I tried it there and I liked it
and from there,

I'm still doing it.

Today,
he proudly wrestles

for the Federacion
de Lucha Fuerteventura

where I stop by
at a wrestling practice.

I've seen my share of wrestling
both professional and fixed.

This is a whole
different approach.

And Jake was all too happy
to share with me

the finer points
of Canarian wrestling.

How are you, Jake?

Hey perfect, yeah.

This is quite a sport.

Yes.

And why is this different
from other kinds of wrestling?

If you compare it
to the Americans way,

you see, you're
always in contact.

If you can see,
you're only touching the sand

with the bottom of your feet.

Once your knees, your hands,

somebody touches
the sand, you're--

The minute you
hit the sand, you're done.

You're done.

So, at the end of the day,

if you were moving sand
from orifices from your body,

you're a loser.

Yeah, yeah.

And down.

One thing watching it,
one thing trying.

So why don't you go
and get suited up.

I'll wait for you
in the center.

You want me to do this?

I want you to be
in the center with me.

Nice.

All right,
I've been challenged

and I guess
I couldn't refuse,

but I had no idea
what I was in for.

Do not kill me.

No. Don't worry.

All right, so what are we doing?

Okay.

Now, lift arm so that
it's always on the trousers.

That good, right there?

On this one,
you come down.

This arm you can even
get the other side

or you can come up
to my back if you want.

-However you want.
-So, I can do this?

You can do that, anything.

But you're always got to be

sticking your shoulder
to my shoulder and we go...

Jake gently
walked me through

the basic technique
of this kind of wrestling.

Oh, I didn't know about that.

But it didn't prepare me
for how fast it was going to be

before I was eating sand.

This is the thing.
You've got it.

This is a perfect example
of trying something

out of your comfort zone.

Although I've got to warn you,

you're also going to immerse
yourself in the sand.

I think I have to thank Jake
for being a really good sport

and not putting me
in orthopedic surgery.

I'm going to quit
while I'm behind.

To the north of Fuerteventura
sits Lanzarote,

the eastern most island
in the Canarys.

In the 1700's, the island was
rocked by devastating eruptions,

and the carved,
severe landscape

still reflects
its volcanic past.

At the coast, water splashes
over Lanzarote's

distinctive black
pebbled beaches.

But there is also life

that springs from
this blackened soil.

In the Lahedia Valley
of Lanzarote,

you'll see these bizarre
semi-circle structures.

These are wind barriers
to protect the grapes

in vineyards unlike
any other in the world.

But even after
the annual harvest,

the work never stops.

Daniel Martin
at Los Bahmos Winery

has the labor intensive job

of kick starting
the next harvest.

The first grape.

Look at that.

It's really amazing that
anything grows from the ashes.

We are in the middle
of the volcano of Lanzarote.

In 1730 to 1736
all of these volcanos erupted

and covered all of this part
with volcanic ash.

Prior to those eruptions,

Lanzarote had green
fertile fields.

But this new darkened terrain
turned out to be nutrient rich.

And that's not all.

The soil here
is actually deceptive

with no apparent irrigation.

But then you grab a shovel and
you dig less than a foot down.

The water is here.

-That's wet.
-Yeah.

You didn't have to dig
down, it's just right there.

Yeah, the ashes retain
the humidity of the night

and the precipitation
of six months ago.

After the eruptions,

the farmers found that
the grapes not only survived,

they thrived.

With the primary vine growing
here named appropriately enough,

volcanic malvasia.

This is the only place
in the world

that grows this type.

So no cabernet,
no merlot.

No.

Only volcanic malvasia.

The vine is planted
at the bottom of a hole

providing additional protection
from the trade winds.

And today,
Daniel put me to work

pruning vines
and repairing walls

built in an endless supply
of lava stone rocks.

There, how do you like that?

All right, so we fixed one.

How many more
to go out there?

Thousands more.

Yeah.

These fields require
a lot of labor,

so the yield is lower
than traditional wineries.

But once the grapes
are harvested,

processed and then aged
in French oak barrels,

the taste is distinctly Canary.

All right.

Salud.

It's sweet.

Yes, really sweet.

-Like a Sherry.
-Like a Sherry.

Yeah, through
the bouquet of ash.

This is for you.

Wow, okay.

Nice bottle.

And you know what?

I know exactly
where I'm taking this.

I took his gift
and headed west.

All of the Canary Islands
have a volcanic history,

but nowhere
is it more pronounced

than here in
Timanfaya National Park.

During that 6-year eruption
in the 1730's,

rivers of lava
sculpted the terrain.

It is indeed a long and winding
road through a lunar landscape

that once you see it,
you never forget it.

You could take a guided
bus tour up here

which also stops at a restaurant
called El Diablo

where the tourists
get a demonstration

of the heat that still simmers
below the surface.

But if you know someone
who knows someone

who knows someone else,

you can avoid the crowds
and see the desert

and feel the heat
a whole different way.

Hey, man.
How are you?

Hey, Peter.
Long time no see.

-All right.
-Nice to see you.

Well, I brought the wine.

I caught the fish.

Christopher Earostaval
originally from California

now lives full-time
here on this island.

A committed expat.

We're not eating
at the restaurant?

Nope, I got
a better idea over here.

You wait and see.

What is that?

That's a barbecue.

Oooh, that's very, very hot.

That's geo thermo heat
coming up from the ground.

And you can ask and they'll
let you have a barbecue

here in this national park.

So, that's exactly
what we did.

Christopher prepared
a rooster fish,

typical of the island,
in the geothermal heat.

Now, how hot is that?

Probably about
400 degrees Fahrenheit.

That would be hot.

Yeah, that'll
cook that in no time.

But there's a restaurant there.

Yeah, they have
their grill up there as well

and that was all designed
by Manrique.

Cesar Manrique.

Manrique is inescapable
in Lanzarote.

This statue is the
official symbol of Timanfaya.

One of many creations of this
native-born artist and architect

who worked throughout his life

to give the island a unified
architectural aesthetic.

Very cool.

That's done.

You hungry?

I am.

The fish gets plated
and the wine gets poured.

Well, we got the volcanic wine.

We got the volcanic fish.

A pretty good pairing.

What a great way
to spend the day.

Peter, we're just
getting started.

You cannot talk
about Lanzarote

without talking about
Cesar Manrique.

Inseparable.

A man with a vision,
he transformed this island

and all these different places.

That was because of Manrique.

And Manrique's influence
even extended below ground.

This is a wow.

And wow, huh?

Welcome to
Jameos del Agua, Peter.

This is a master piece
of art and nature.

It's like a Japanese grotto.

It used to be
just a volcanic tube.

It was like a bubble
and the roof caved in.

Well, they took advantage
of the natural structure

and completely blended it in
so that you can't tell

what's manmade
and what's natural.

And one guy did this?

One guy.

Incredible visionary.

At night, this space is
often used to host live music.

But early in the morning...

It's so quiet here.

Oh yeah,
it's incredible solitude.

All you can hear
is just the birds singing.

My favorite place
on the whole island.

Jameos del Agua

is one of Manrique's
most celebrated efforts

to turn the island itself
into a work of art.

I mean, his whole
thing was about art, nature,

nature, art
giving back to each other.

And I think that he was able
to bring it all together

in one thing,
in his art here.

Well, I got to tell you,
that's pretty incredible.

Yeah, but we're not done here.

I've got one last surprise
for you.

You do?

Now, wait until you see this.

We walked
out of the lagoon

to another natural
beauty work of Manrique

only to be totally
blown away by this.

This is another wow.

Yes, this is
the crown jewel of Jameos:

the auditorium.

It may have the best
natural acoustics in the world.

And with all these nooks and
crannies, the sound is absorbed

so you can hear a pin drop
in here and there's no echo.

-Nothing at all?
-No.

Hello.
Nothing.

No.

And I brought some friends

and we're going to play
some music for you.

Very cool.

So go pick a seat, any seat.

Yeah, you're not
kidding, literally.

All right.

Okay,
I'll see you later.

You got it.

Christopher often
performs with his band

made up of some of the finest
musicians in the Canarys.

It's one thing to admire
the unbelievable architecture

and design of this
natural acoustic wonder.

It's another when
they start playing.

This is unplugged at its best.

It's a unique blend of
Spanish and African sounds,

some Arabic thrown in, otherwise
known as Volcanic Fusion.

It's perhaps the perfect way

to experience this
amazing space and sound.

My final stop is just
a short ferry ride away

to La Graciosa just off the
northern tip of Lanzarote.

It's only five miles long,
the smallest of the islands.

It was actually a part
of Lanzarote until 2018

when it officially became
the eighth Canary Island.

It's the least populated island
with only 700 residents.

And you won't find
any paved roads,

so, grabbing a bike is the way
I like to explore the island.

The real beauty
of La Graciosa is nothing.

That's right, nothing.

It's untouched.

Maybe that's why
I saved the least for last.

It gave me time to think

about what a remarkable journey
this had been.

Eight separate islands
where the culture and history

have been kept very much alive.

I was given this window
into the ocean world.

Confronted the island's
raw destructive power

and then witnessed its
surprising natural potential.

Immersed myself
in it's native music.

Embraced local delicacies.

And then embraced
the locals themselves.

Played a part in restoring
an indigenous species

and preserving
an ancient language.

And the time
to catch up on my own.

I brought along some
U.S. newspapers to read,

but seeing those stories

about the state
of the rest of the world,

convinced me that it
might just be a better idea

to stick around
just a little while longer

in La Graciosa
surrounded by the silence,

as well as being embraced
by the hidden majesty

of the Canary Islands.