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1
00:00:14,280 --> 00:00:15,960
It is perhaps the ultimate accolade,
2
00:00:16,080 --> 00:00:19,440
not merely to have your name known,
but to have it become an adjective.
3
00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:21,840
Memories feel Proustian,
music sounds Mozartian,
4
00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:23,600
and clothing, linens, furniture
5
00:00:23,680 --> 00:00:26,080
and even whole rooms
can be very Ralph Lauren.
6
00:00:26,200 --> 00:00:28,200
Dearest Ralph,
7
00:00:29,280 --> 00:00:35,000
as a designer, you conjure up
all things I most care about.
8
00:00:36,240 --> 00:00:39,600
The country, misty mornings,
9
00:00:40,480 --> 00:00:42,480
summer afternoons,
10
00:00:43,200 --> 00:00:46,440
great open spaces, horses,
11
00:00:46,800 --> 00:00:50,240
cornfields, vegetable gardens,
12
00:00:50,960 --> 00:00:54,400
fireplaces,
and Jack Russell terriers.
13
00:00:58,040 --> 00:01:00,680
Your story is not about trends,
14
00:01:01,040 --> 00:01:04,520
or fleeting moments,
but about values,
15
00:01:04,840 --> 00:01:06,840
and things that last.
16
00:01:08,600 --> 00:01:13,200
You've not only created a total concept
of fashion and style,
17
00:01:13,720 --> 00:01:17,240
but by your consistency
and integrity,
18
00:01:17,560 --> 00:01:23,760
protected it, always reminding us
of the best things in life.
19
00:01:26,160 --> 00:01:30,360
And if you say
something is very Ralph Lauren,
20
00:01:30,560 --> 00:01:32,560
you're immediately understood.
22
00:02:23,160 --> 00:02:28,960
VERY RALPH
23
00:03:38,520 --> 00:03:42,560
Everything in this room is a mix
of everything that I love.
24
00:03:43,800 --> 00:03:47,840
They're gifts from friends,
gifts from people in the company.
25
00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:52,640
They all mean something
and they're not just things.
26
00:03:54,480 --> 00:03:56,840
I'm inspired by everything that I see.
27
00:03:57,640 --> 00:04:01,840
You know, I love old things,
I love cowboy boots, I love details.
28
00:04:02,440 --> 00:04:03,890
I love cars.
29
00:04:04,040 --> 00:04:07,440
They're sort of the beginnings
of a concept.
30
00:04:08,160 --> 00:04:11,720
Somehow it all ends up in my clothes.
31
00:04:12,320 --> 00:04:15,760
We oughta work on something
that's a little lighter.
32
00:04:16,080 --> 00:04:20,280
This is authentic but maybe we need
to do a feminine version of that.
33
00:04:20,920 --> 00:04:23,560
I never thought
I was in the fashion business.
34
00:04:24,160 --> 00:04:27,520
If someone asked "are you a fashion
designer", "no, I hate fashion".
35
00:04:27,600 --> 00:04:31,760
I think anti-fashion was always
something that Ralph was inspired by.
36
00:04:31,920 --> 00:04:35,680
So it really comes out of just a gut
that Ralph has,
37
00:04:35,880 --> 00:04:38,160
this amazing instinct.
38
00:04:38,480 --> 00:04:40,680
Ralph always says I never went
to fashion school,
39
00:04:40,800 --> 00:04:42,640
he doesn't do his own sketches.
40
00:04:42,720 --> 00:04:45,440
Not all designers do,
but many of them do.
41
00:04:45,520 --> 00:04:47,800
These are great. I love these.
42
00:04:47,880 --> 00:04:49,440
I think he was freed.
43
00:04:49,520 --> 00:04:52,920
I think it was an amazing thing
that he didn't have that training.
44
00:04:54,320 --> 00:04:56,960
I didn't have the training
to cut the garment
45
00:04:57,080 --> 00:04:59,720
or do some of the things
that designers do.
46
00:05:00,200 --> 00:05:03,640
But I had the eye.
And I don't know where it came from.
47
00:05:04,600 --> 00:05:08,120
When I was growing up,
I didn't even know what a designer was.
48
00:05:08,200 --> 00:05:10,200
But my father was an artist.
49
00:05:10,360 --> 00:05:14,640
The color somehow comes
from my father.
50
00:05:20,520 --> 00:05:22,520
My father was a painter.
51
00:05:23,400 --> 00:05:26,880
He made paintings
and murals in offices
52
00:05:27,000 --> 00:05:29,440
and churches and synagogues.
53
00:05:29,520 --> 00:05:32,720
I'd watch him up on scaffolds
painting and I'd say:
54
00:05:32,800 --> 00:05:35,480
"Wow, it's amazing."
But I didn't have his talent.
55
00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:39,040
But somehow I was given
something else.
56
00:05:40,600 --> 00:05:43,240
The artistry came in another way.
57
00:05:52,240 --> 00:05:56,120
Ralph had this special thing
that rose to the surface.
58
00:05:59,320 --> 00:06:02,040
He had such a great creativity
and imagination.
59
00:06:04,120 --> 00:06:07,880
I always felt a little special about
who I was.
60
00:06:08,000 --> 00:06:09,890
Was I Eddie Fisher ?
61
00:06:10,040 --> 00:06:13,400
Or was I whoever the star was
at the moment ?
62
00:06:22,040 --> 00:06:24,400
When I was a kid,
I'd go into a dance
63
00:06:24,720 --> 00:06:28,720
and the girls, somehow I could feel
that they liked me.
64
00:06:28,840 --> 00:06:30,840
And I couldn't figure out what it was,
65
00:06:30,920 --> 00:06:34,080
whether I was really handsome
or it was my imagination.
66
00:06:36,400 --> 00:06:40,440
But I enjoyed if someone said
I was cute.
67
00:06:44,200 --> 00:06:47,880
He had a natural affinity
for finding things
68
00:06:48,440 --> 00:06:53,520
and putting himself together
that made him special.
69
00:06:53,640 --> 00:06:55,640
"Where did you find that, Ralph ?"
70
00:06:57,760 --> 00:07:01,520
Maybe he'd find a local store
that had an old army jacket
71
00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:03,640
and he'd wear that.
72
00:07:05,080 --> 00:07:11,120
Or maybe he'd grab a jacket
and was stylish, and it was like boom.
73
00:07:11,400 --> 00:07:14,400
Everybody looked around and said:
"That's great ! That's cool."
74
00:07:16,040 --> 00:07:18,040
He just had style.
75
00:07:21,720 --> 00:07:25,520
I saw Ralph when I was a teenager.
76
00:07:26,200 --> 00:07:28,400
We both grew up in the Bronx.
77
00:07:28,840 --> 00:07:34,160
I remember seeing him because
he dressed in a way
78
00:07:34,320 --> 00:07:37,920
that was so different
from everyone else,
79
00:07:38,240 --> 00:07:42,840
and I thought how cool that he has
the courage to walk around like that.
80
00:07:43,320 --> 00:07:45,920
He had a very personal look.
81
00:07:47,760 --> 00:07:51,320
When I was fourteen, my friend
took me up to his house.
82
00:07:51,400 --> 00:07:54,240
And then he opened
his father's closet.
83
00:07:54,320 --> 00:07:58,520
I saw all these shoes
with shoe trees in them.
84
00:07:58,800 --> 00:08:00,960
And I said: "Wow, look at that."
85
00:08:01,200 --> 00:08:03,720
I went home and looked at my closet.
86
00:08:03,880 --> 00:08:08,440
It was shoes piled up. I hardly could
find one shoe after the other shoe
87
00:08:09,720 --> 00:08:13,840
I lived in a small little room
with my two older brothers.
88
00:08:14,600 --> 00:08:16,370
I had the cot.
89
00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:19,160
And I realized that I can't wait
to get out of here
90
00:08:19,240 --> 00:08:22,240
so that I can have my own drawers
and my own things.
91
00:08:24,800 --> 00:08:27,120
I grew up in a very humble way.
92
00:08:27,560 --> 00:08:29,290
My parents were European,
93
00:08:29,440 --> 00:08:32,800
came to this country when they were
16 or 17 years old.
94
00:08:32,880 --> 00:08:35,840
And they took care of us
and loved us.
95
00:08:36,280 --> 00:08:39,040
I always had a nice home life
with my parents
96
00:08:39,120 --> 00:08:41,120
and my brothers and sister.
97
00:08:42,680 --> 00:08:45,240
But you are always aspiring.
98
00:08:46,600 --> 00:08:48,280
You set your dreams.
99
00:08:48,360 --> 00:08:50,920
You're looking out at the world
a little bit,
100
00:08:51,520 --> 00:08:54,320
learning that life could be better.
101
00:08:56,240 --> 00:09:01,240
I could see that there was something
that he was creating,
102
00:09:01,320 --> 00:09:06,400
that I think later on
he would use in his design rooms.
103
00:09:06,960 --> 00:09:09,080
The vision was the same.
104
00:09:09,240 --> 00:09:12,440
He had this idea about lifestyle,
105
00:09:13,600 --> 00:09:19,480
buying into "you can live this way"
through his clothes.
106
00:09:36,760 --> 00:09:38,760
Thank you.
Want to take a look ?
107
00:09:40,720 --> 00:09:44,600
When models walk into my office,
they're 18 years old,
108
00:09:45,280 --> 00:09:47,280
no sophistication.
109
00:09:49,080 --> 00:09:51,120
- Where are you from ?
- I'm from Germany.
110
00:09:51,200 --> 00:09:54,200
All of a sudden they become
something else.
111
00:09:57,240 --> 00:09:59,240
The star of your movie.
112
00:10:00,600 --> 00:10:02,600
- Hi.
- The light went out.
113
00:10:13,080 --> 00:10:15,400
- I think she's good.
- Yup, she's good.
114
00:10:15,720 --> 00:10:17,600
I like very natural women.
115
00:10:17,680 --> 00:10:19,200
Not too much makeup.
116
00:10:19,280 --> 00:10:21,800
She just wears a pair of jeans
and a t-shirt.
117
00:10:21,880 --> 00:10:25,680
Not the girl with all the fashion
and the designer clothes.
118
00:10:25,800 --> 00:10:27,690
And I love long hair.
119
00:10:27,840 --> 00:10:29,560
Hair blowing in the wind,
convertible.
120
00:10:29,680 --> 00:10:32,240
That's what my vision is.
That's what my wife looks like.
121
00:10:41,560 --> 00:10:43,560
My mother is his muse.
122
00:10:44,720 --> 00:10:49,160
She has a great sense
of personal style and simplicity.
123
00:10:51,640 --> 00:10:53,840
She's beautiful
and she's very natural.
124
00:10:53,920 --> 00:10:56,600
My dad does not like any makeup
on me or her.
125
00:10:56,680 --> 00:10:58,920
He wants very natural beauty.
126
00:10:59,600 --> 00:11:02,200
She really just is so down to earth.
127
00:11:02,280 --> 00:11:06,160
My mom's sort of a tomboy jock
and elegant woman.
128
00:11:09,400 --> 00:11:11,040
My mom walks into a room
129
00:11:11,120 --> 00:11:14,120
and she just looks natural
and her dress is flowing
130
00:11:14,200 --> 00:11:16,880
and he says:
"Wow, you look beautiful."
131
00:11:16,960 --> 00:11:18,800
And then he'll go into the office
and says:
132
00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:21,120
"You should have seen how Ricky
walked in, what she did."
133
00:11:21,200 --> 00:11:23,920
"The way she was dressed...
That's what I'm trying to capture,"
134
00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:26,000
"a little bit of that spirit."
135
00:11:26,200 --> 00:11:29,840
His different characters come to life,
but they all have pieces
136
00:11:29,920 --> 00:11:31,920
of my mom in them.
137
00:11:44,400 --> 00:11:51,000
I grew up passing Ricky's door
in the Bronx, but we'd never met.
138
00:11:52,800 --> 00:11:56,240
When I met Ricky,
she was 19 and a half years old.
139
00:11:57,720 --> 00:12:01,520
There was an honesty and an integrity
to her, and a sweetness.
140
00:12:01,920 --> 00:12:04,240
And by accident, she happened
to have been beautiful.
141
00:12:04,320 --> 00:12:07,680
He said: "If I asked you,
would you go out with me ?"
142
00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:11,200
And I said: "I don't know,
ask and we'll see."
143
00:12:11,280 --> 00:12:13,480
But he was thought I was being
very clever and coy,
144
00:12:13,600 --> 00:12:16,640
but I wasn't. I was innocent
and I said what I felt.
145
00:12:18,560 --> 00:12:22,560
I was 24 years old
and I was not looking to get married.
146
00:12:23,120 --> 00:12:27,480
But we fell in love and it was like,
after about the fourth date I thought,
147
00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:29,560
"this is the girl I'm gonna marry".
148
00:12:34,000 --> 00:12:36,800
We were children.
We were living there in the Bronx.
149
00:12:37,480 --> 00:12:39,480
We were still kids.
150
00:12:40,360 --> 00:12:43,040
We had a small apartment
with a pullman kitchen,
151
00:12:43,120 --> 00:12:46,000
a kitchen that's in the same room
as the living room.
152
00:12:46,080 --> 00:12:47,200
We had nothing.
153
00:12:47,280 --> 00:12:50,000
We slept on the floor
on a mattress.
154
00:12:50,080 --> 00:12:51,680
And that was the beginning.
155
00:12:51,760 --> 00:12:54,800
We had a train above our heads,
the L.
156
00:12:54,920 --> 00:12:56,920
It was like a movie.
157
00:12:57,640 --> 00:12:59,040
We would hear the noise.
158
00:12:59,120 --> 00:13:00,800
It was like
"Barefoot in the Park".
159
00:13:00,880 --> 00:13:03,600
When the train went by
and the whole room...
160
00:13:03,680 --> 00:13:06,960
It's sort of the young married couple.
And I remember we had a phone
161
00:13:07,040 --> 00:13:10,120
and the phone
was a turquoise princess.
162
00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:15,520
And I never, ever thought I'd have a
turquoise princess phone in my house.
163
00:13:15,600 --> 00:13:18,240
But we loved the phone
cause it was so modern.
164
00:13:22,120 --> 00:13:24,000
And we'd go down
to Greenwich Village
165
00:13:24,120 --> 00:13:26,120
and there was a store that sold furs.
166
00:13:26,760 --> 00:13:28,800
And they sold patchwork furs
very often.
167
00:13:28,920 --> 00:13:31,720
And we'd go searching around
for interesting things
168
00:13:31,800 --> 00:13:33,800
that we could decorate the house with.
169
00:13:34,240 --> 00:13:36,040
We had a bulletin board.
170
00:13:36,120 --> 00:13:39,360
And on the bulletin board
we would tack dream pictures,
171
00:13:39,440 --> 00:13:40,760
things we loved.
172
00:13:40,880 --> 00:13:43,800
Like he would put
a Morgan sports car.
173
00:13:43,880 --> 00:13:45,880
Or a beautiful place.
174
00:13:47,200 --> 00:13:49,240
Anything that we loved at the time.
175
00:13:50,360 --> 00:13:54,040
His father was an artist.
And he was able to do faux bois,
176
00:13:54,240 --> 00:13:56,720
which is fake wood.
He painted it.
177
00:13:56,800 --> 00:14:02,560
The walls of the living room were wood,
but not "really wood".
178
00:14:02,840 --> 00:14:04,200
They were painted.
179
00:14:04,280 --> 00:14:07,880
And we painted
all the little trim in the house
180
00:14:07,960 --> 00:14:10,840
and they were wrought iron
and we made 'em like gold.
181
00:14:11,200 --> 00:14:15,360
We stayed up all night long gilding.
It was ridiculous.
182
00:14:15,520 --> 00:14:20,040
With those fur rugs and everything
else that we had accumulated.
183
00:14:22,320 --> 00:14:25,680
We didn't have very much,
but we were happy with what we had.
184
00:14:34,440 --> 00:14:37,720
You like that ? You want a bag ?
Like a very cool bag ?
185
00:14:37,800 --> 00:14:39,800
The one with the studs was...
186
00:14:42,240 --> 00:14:45,640
It doesn't have to be a ponytail,
but there's something chic...
187
00:14:46,080 --> 00:14:49,480
When you see her hair up,
you want it more dramatic.
188
00:14:51,440 --> 00:14:53,010
Yeah, let me see that.
189
00:14:53,160 --> 00:14:56,640
That looks beautiful.
The bag looks a little rugged.
190
00:14:57,480 --> 00:15:00,240
I didn't know what my story
was going to be.
191
00:15:01,160 --> 00:15:03,480
I didn't say I'm gonna be
this great fashion designer,
192
00:15:03,600 --> 00:15:05,600
or whatever you wanna call it.
193
00:15:06,480 --> 00:15:09,200
But even as a young man,
I had a story.
194
00:15:10,640 --> 00:15:14,840
He always had a sense about
what he wanted to look like,
195
00:15:14,920 --> 00:15:16,920
how he wanted his clothes to look.
196
00:15:17,640 --> 00:15:21,480
When he was a tie salesman,
he and Ricky had just gotten married,
197
00:15:21,600 --> 00:15:24,040
and he went to a custom tailor
198
00:15:24,120 --> 00:15:28,600
and just told him what he wanted.
199
00:15:30,000 --> 00:15:31,810
No training whatsoever.
200
00:15:31,960 --> 00:15:35,960
And he designed his wardrobe
with this tailor.
201
00:15:37,600 --> 00:15:38,880
The Daily News Record,
202
00:15:39,000 --> 00:15:42,240
which was the
menswear daily newspaper,
203
00:15:42,320 --> 00:15:47,400
did a story on Ralph back in 1964,
on his personal style.
204
00:15:47,480 --> 00:15:50,760
"Finding the right item ready-made often
proves impossible for Ralph Lauren."
205
00:15:50,840 --> 00:15:53,440
This is three years
before he started his business.
206
00:15:53,720 --> 00:15:58,120
He was just this dashing man
about town who,
207
00:15:58,320 --> 00:16:02,040
because he couldn't find exactly
what he wanted in the stores,
208
00:16:02,120 --> 00:16:06,680
was having his clothes custom-made
while he was a salesman.
209
00:16:08,360 --> 00:16:10,960
I just knew what I wanted.
210
00:16:11,480 --> 00:16:14,920
I had this passion to get something,
and no one was doing it.
211
00:16:15,160 --> 00:16:17,320
So I'm saying: "I wanna buy a tie.
I wanna wear the wide tie."
212
00:16:17,400 --> 00:16:20,240
I would go to a tiemaker
and have them make ties for me.
213
00:16:21,520 --> 00:16:23,000
Why I wanted the wide tie ?
214
00:16:23,080 --> 00:16:25,240
Maybe I saw it in old movies
and they looked great.
215
00:16:26,880 --> 00:16:29,560
Maybe it was on Fred Astaire
and I liked the look.
216
00:16:32,440 --> 00:16:34,440
And I said: "I want that."
217
00:16:37,040 --> 00:16:39,040
But I didn't know where to buy it.
218
00:16:40,880 --> 00:16:43,920
I saw 'em in the movies,
but I didn't see 'em in the stores.
219
00:16:48,960 --> 00:16:51,120
I had ideas about newness.
220
00:16:51,800 --> 00:16:55,600
And so I started out making these ties
and I made them unusual.
221
00:16:55,800 --> 00:16:58,600
My ties were handmade,
they were special.
222
00:16:58,680 --> 00:17:03,160
My mom would sit there with a cousin
of hers and they'd sew the labels
223
00:17:03,280 --> 00:17:04,890
into the neckwear.
224
00:17:05,040 --> 00:17:08,320
And my dad helped Ralph
make swatch cards.
225
00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:11,440
And it was kind of like everybody
pitching in.
226
00:17:12,560 --> 00:17:15,240
The office really was
the tiniest little thing
227
00:17:15,720 --> 00:17:18,520
in the Empire State Building.
And all he had was a drawer.
228
00:17:18,600 --> 00:17:22,600
And in the drawer, he had the samples
of the ties and the fabrics.
229
00:17:23,560 --> 00:17:27,480
I called the brand Polo because
I always loved sports.
230
00:17:27,760 --> 00:17:32,440
And I thought well, I couldn't call it
baseball or basketball.
231
00:17:32,880 --> 00:17:35,440
And Polo sounded sort of sporty.
232
00:17:36,240 --> 00:17:38,880
It sounds like a master plan,
it wasn't a master plan.
233
00:17:38,960 --> 00:17:42,560
I didn't think about that. I said this
is what I wanna do. I like these ties,
234
00:17:42,720 --> 00:17:45,680
I'm gonna make them wider,
I think they're gonna like it.
235
00:17:45,760 --> 00:17:47,600
I brought it over to Bloomingdale's.
236
00:17:47,680 --> 00:17:50,400
Because Bloomingdale's was
the entrée into every store,
237
00:17:50,480 --> 00:17:53,680
'cause every store, at that time,
was shopping Bloomingdale's
238
00:17:53,760 --> 00:17:54,920
to see what was new,
239
00:17:55,000 --> 00:17:57,640
who the new resource is,
what's happening.
240
00:17:58,480 --> 00:18:00,920
And I brought the ties
to Bloomingdale's.
241
00:18:01,320 --> 00:18:03,920
The buyer looked at the tie
and said: "Ralph, it's too wide."
242
00:18:04,360 --> 00:18:08,280
"Would you make it a little narrower,
and would you take your label off ?"
243
00:18:08,360 --> 00:18:10,360
"We wanna have our store brand."
244
00:18:10,600 --> 00:18:15,440
When our tie buyer asked him to take
the Ralph Lauren label off the ties,
245
00:18:15,520 --> 00:18:19,280
he simply closed up his sample case
and walked away.
246
00:18:20,560 --> 00:18:22,840
I don't know what gave me
the guts to say no.
247
00:18:23,800 --> 00:18:28,000
Not selling to a major store that was
gonna give you all that exposure,
248
00:18:28,080 --> 00:18:30,600
because I want 'em to be
the way I designed it
249
00:18:30,680 --> 00:18:33,040
and this is the brand
and this is the name.
250
00:18:33,400 --> 00:18:36,280
Right then and there,
that was gonna be his first opportunity
251
00:18:36,400 --> 00:18:39,680
to really do some business
or whatever and he walked away.
252
00:18:40,440 --> 00:18:41,680
Forget about it.
253
00:18:41,760 --> 00:18:45,520
You don't have to buy my stuff,
I'm not gonna give you your label.
254
00:18:46,360 --> 00:18:50,280
When he told me,
it got me kind of nervous.
255
00:18:50,520 --> 00:18:54,160
But I wrote him a letter
and in the letter I said:
256
00:18:54,600 --> 00:18:59,360
"I'm not going to be in your way. I'm
going to wish for you the wings to fly,"
257
00:18:59,440 --> 00:19:01,440
"and I'll be there with you."
258
00:19:01,800 --> 00:19:04,040
"Whatever you do, I'm there for you."
259
00:19:04,480 --> 00:19:08,040
I loved what she wrote.
It was very deep-felt.
260
00:19:09,560 --> 00:19:14,720
Ricky's parents came from Vienna.
They left when Hitler came.
261
00:19:15,000 --> 00:19:17,960
She grew up hearing
what they lived through,
262
00:19:18,400 --> 00:19:21,040
and so, she wanted stability.
263
00:19:21,920 --> 00:19:26,520
She was saying: "I believe in you,
and I think you're gonna do it."
264
00:19:29,360 --> 00:19:32,840
And I did it.
Bloomingdale's came back to me.
265
00:19:34,120 --> 00:19:37,640
The Polo Tie, by Ralph Lauren,
all linen in 10 smashing colors.
266
00:19:37,880 --> 00:19:40,320
12,50 at Bloomingdale's,
the Father's Day store.
267
00:19:40,400 --> 00:19:44,400
When you have a four-inch tie
instead of a three-inch
268
00:19:44,480 --> 00:19:47,640
or two-and-a-half-inch, it changes
the way someone looks.
269
00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:51,320
When you had a wide tie,
270
00:19:51,440 --> 00:19:55,520
the next step is you need different
shirts and different collars.
271
00:19:56,000 --> 00:19:58,920
Now you have new ties, new shirts,
272
00:19:59,000 --> 00:20:01,000
and you need new suits.
273
00:20:01,840 --> 00:20:03,880
That was the era of the '60s,
274
00:20:04,040 --> 00:20:06,720
the time when the whole
men's business
275
00:20:06,840 --> 00:20:08,920
really was going through change.
276
00:20:16,680 --> 00:20:19,720
And I found a whole world of ideas.
277
00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:22,000
The timing was interesting.
278
00:20:22,360 --> 00:20:27,120
The world was changing.
Fashion was happening for men.
279
00:20:28,560 --> 00:20:31,800
It was the early '60's when men
wore a uniform.
280
00:20:32,080 --> 00:20:36,360
There was just very, very prescribed
ways of dressing.
281
00:20:36,840 --> 00:20:41,360
It was the '60's Mad Men era.
282
00:20:43,160 --> 00:20:47,840
Men's clothes were
still very, very conservative.
283
00:20:50,080 --> 00:20:51,970
I knew how to do the ties.
284
00:20:52,120 --> 00:20:55,200
But I didn't stop from there.
I just kept going.
285
00:20:55,280 --> 00:20:56,680
What am I gonna wear with the ties ?
286
00:20:56,760 --> 00:20:59,080
We gotta make a shirt.
Gotta make a suit.
287
00:20:59,280 --> 00:21:01,120
I found a suit maker,
a shirt maker.
288
00:21:01,200 --> 00:21:03,760
All of a sudden, they're buying
the ties, they're loving the ties.
289
00:21:03,840 --> 00:21:06,120
What else you make Ralph ?
I have shirts.
290
00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:11,200
He was doing
very flamboyant shirtings
291
00:21:11,280 --> 00:21:13,920
and these wide lapel suits.
292
00:21:14,000 --> 00:21:17,000
And so, it was news.
And I was a journalist,
293
00:21:17,160 --> 00:21:20,920
so of course, I wrote about him,
because it was fantastic.
294
00:21:22,320 --> 00:21:25,080
He had done this
linen belted back suit.
295
00:21:25,400 --> 00:21:29,400
No one was doing wrinkled,
unconstructed suits.
296
00:21:30,320 --> 00:21:33,080
You can picture guys in the '30's.
297
00:21:33,320 --> 00:21:36,480
And I immediately thought of Gatsby.
298
00:21:36,560 --> 00:21:39,200
"The look comes straight off
Gatsby's lawn."
299
00:21:39,280 --> 00:21:41,800
He started with, you know, the kind
of clothes he wanted to wear,
300
00:21:41,880 --> 00:21:44,040
the characters he would like to be.
301
00:21:44,120 --> 00:21:45,760
He wanted to tell stories,
302
00:21:45,840 --> 00:21:49,920
and that was completely new and
revolutionary in the men's arena.
303
00:21:51,080 --> 00:21:56,160
He basically created the menswear
industry, as a designer reality.
304
00:21:57,240 --> 00:21:58,730
When I was starting out,
305
00:21:58,880 --> 00:22:03,160
the designer name
was not appealing to men.
306
00:22:03,680 --> 00:22:08,520
They were used to buying in certain
companies, certain brand stores.
307
00:22:08,600 --> 00:22:14,040
But designers were for the women
and the tailor was for the man.
308
00:22:19,560 --> 00:22:22,400
As long as it has
the folds it in, Jerry.
309
00:22:24,680 --> 00:22:27,920
Ralph took some of the great classics
310
00:22:28,240 --> 00:22:33,440
and made them relevant.
He made them better.
311
00:22:34,280 --> 00:22:36,680
Better fabrics, better fit.
312
00:22:38,120 --> 00:22:39,560
And Ralph's taste...
313
00:22:39,640 --> 00:22:42,960
Bob, if you want to take off
your hat, take off your hat.
314
00:22:43,240 --> 00:22:45,480
He has a very critical eye.
315
00:22:46,360 --> 00:22:50,360
And Buffy Birrittella was so attuned
to him
316
00:22:50,880 --> 00:22:54,320
that she knew exactly
what he wanted.
317
00:22:56,760 --> 00:23:00,280
The attention to detail,
whether it's a shirt
318
00:23:00,360 --> 00:23:02,680
or a shoulder on a jacket,
319
00:23:03,160 --> 00:23:08,120
those were things that he trained
my eye on very, very early on.
320
00:23:08,200 --> 00:23:10,560
For chairman of the board,
I don't know.
321
00:23:10,640 --> 00:23:13,480
So when you go out there,
take your time.
322
00:23:13,600 --> 00:23:17,160
Walk back and forth across the T
and up and down.
323
00:23:22,400 --> 00:23:25,560
One of the things he was trying to do
was to meld
324
00:23:26,200 --> 00:23:30,040
the custom tailoring
of English Savile Row
325
00:23:30,640 --> 00:23:32,760
with an American sensibility.
326
00:23:38,920 --> 00:23:44,160
But it was the spirit of the clothes,
not just the technical details
327
00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:47,120
that made me see clothes
in a whole other way.
328
00:23:48,600 --> 00:23:50,600
I knew I had to work for him.
329
00:23:51,640 --> 00:23:54,880
Buffy was my right-arm.
She understood the clothes.
330
00:23:55,000 --> 00:23:58,400
I showed her a jacket, she got it.
Her eye was good.
331
00:23:59,040 --> 00:24:01,010
He's very competitive.
332
00:24:01,160 --> 00:24:02,880
He's very sure of himself.
333
00:24:02,960 --> 00:24:07,560
He had a real sense about who
he was and what he wanted to do.
334
00:24:08,080 --> 00:24:11,000
Some would characterize it
as cockiness,
335
00:24:11,120 --> 00:24:14,240
but I saw it more as confidence.
336
00:24:14,320 --> 00:24:20,400
He just had a real belief and passion
about what he was doing.
337
00:24:20,600 --> 00:24:23,920
Ralph came to me
and said I need a shop.
338
00:24:24,960 --> 00:24:27,560
And in his typical, calm,
understated way, he said:
339
00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:31,320
"Marvin, if I don't have a shop,
I can't sell to you anymore."
340
00:24:32,040 --> 00:24:33,640
We gave him a shop.
341
00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:37,000
And really planned one
in the middle of our main floor.
342
00:24:37,080 --> 00:24:39,280
I mean going into Bloomingdale's...
343
00:24:39,360 --> 00:24:43,120
I mean, owning a store
within a store...
344
00:24:43,720 --> 00:24:47,240
I said: "How did Ralph get
on the first floor of Bloomingdale's,"
345
00:24:47,360 --> 00:24:50,120
"where all the bags and the makeup
and the jewelry was ?"
346
00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:54,120
But no, Ralph is right there.
He had front stage.
347
00:24:54,200 --> 00:24:57,520
Always had.
Ralph had the whole picture.
348
00:24:58,720 --> 00:25:02,560
Bloomingdale's, Marvin Traub
particularly, was a believer.
349
00:25:03,720 --> 00:25:07,800
I became their guy. And they said:
350
00:25:07,880 --> 00:25:09,960
"Keep going Ralph, we want more."
351
00:25:10,920 --> 00:25:15,120
But it grew too fast. And I didn't have
the right bankers at the time.
352
00:25:16,000 --> 00:25:19,080
There was a certain point
in the very early days,
353
00:25:19,200 --> 00:25:21,800
where Ralph almost lost
the whole business.
354
00:25:25,840 --> 00:25:31,960
In the early 70's,
before we started licensing,
355
00:25:32,360 --> 00:25:36,640
the company had overextended
at the bank.
356
00:25:36,960 --> 00:25:40,880
The money going out was far
extending the money coming in.
357
00:25:42,040 --> 00:25:45,200
We couldn't even, I believe,
make our payroll.
358
00:25:47,880 --> 00:25:51,120
I just remember, like,
one of the guys said:
359
00:25:51,240 --> 00:25:53,240
"Ralph, you're out of business."
360
00:25:53,960 --> 00:25:56,200
I remember I was so scared.
361
00:25:56,280 --> 00:25:58,720
I was sweating, but it was cold.
362
00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:02,400
I was worried
about telling my father.
363
00:26:03,080 --> 00:26:05,280
I thought, the one person...
364
00:26:05,360 --> 00:26:09,200
I had this vision of telling my father
I went out of business.
365
00:26:10,280 --> 00:26:13,000
I got up in the morning.
It was raining.
366
00:26:13,560 --> 00:26:15,560
And I don't know why,
367
00:26:16,360 --> 00:26:20,240
but I put on a white jacket
and white pants.
368
00:26:21,200 --> 00:26:23,200
I hardly ever wear all white suit.
369
00:26:23,280 --> 00:26:26,800
And I was walking in the rain
and I said to myself:
370
00:26:27,760 --> 00:26:30,400
"I'm going to make it back.
I'm not gonna let this happen."
371
00:26:30,480 --> 00:26:33,680
I went to my partner, Larry Lockman,
and said:
372
00:26:33,760 --> 00:26:36,680
"We have to advance credit
to the Ralph Lauren company,"
373
00:26:36,880 --> 00:26:40,360
"so they can buy piece goods
in order to ship to Bloomingdale's."
374
00:26:40,440 --> 00:26:43,080
Something we hadn't done
for other people.
375
00:26:45,400 --> 00:26:47,200
I saved some little money.
376
00:26:47,280 --> 00:26:50,160
I put everything that I had
back into the company.
377
00:26:51,240 --> 00:26:53,360
And I made it back.
378
00:26:56,160 --> 00:26:58,560
I had a voice, I had a showcase,
379
00:26:58,920 --> 00:27:00,920
I can do this.
380
00:27:01,280 --> 00:27:06,240
Designer as a store,
not just a designer as a tie or shirt.
381
00:27:06,680 --> 00:27:09,480
The designer as a business.
382
00:27:09,560 --> 00:27:12,120
You think you have to convince me ?
383
00:27:12,200 --> 00:27:15,480
I'm sitting here like:
"It's gonna be hard to convince us."
384
00:27:15,560 --> 00:27:17,680
What's strange about this ?
385
00:27:18,640 --> 00:27:22,240
The only thing strange is we should've
been there two or five years ago.
386
00:27:22,520 --> 00:27:25,360
One of the biggest flaws
in so many fashion people
387
00:27:25,440 --> 00:27:27,840
is that they're brilliant, they're
clever, they have beautiful ideas,
388
00:27:27,920 --> 00:27:29,640
but they really don't have
any business sense.
389
00:27:29,720 --> 00:27:33,120
He clearly has an extraordinary
business acumen as well.
390
00:27:34,480 --> 00:27:36,680
Ralph knew exactly
what he was doing.
391
00:27:36,800 --> 00:27:41,120
He had a sixth sense to know
what the world needs.
392
00:27:42,400 --> 00:27:44,840
I'm in the business of fashion.
393
00:27:45,320 --> 00:27:48,600
It sounds like a frivolous thing.
And not important.
394
00:27:48,680 --> 00:27:53,120
But I think it's important that people
express who they are.
395
00:27:54,960 --> 00:27:57,440
Fashion has to be desirable
396
00:27:58,120 --> 00:28:01,400
and give somebody some kind
of emotional reaction to it.
397
00:28:01,480 --> 00:28:04,440
And Ralph sees that
and understands that
398
00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:06,800
and he gives them the whole package.
399
00:28:10,760 --> 00:28:13,960
He always looked at clothes
in a cinematic way.
400
00:28:14,680 --> 00:28:16,960
How they created a character.
401
00:28:18,960 --> 00:28:23,200
What they said.
What images they conjured up.
402
00:28:24,760 --> 00:28:26,760
What moods.
403
00:28:26,960 --> 00:28:31,960
Thinking about the man
as a character in his own movie.
404
00:28:36,680 --> 00:28:39,800
Anytime I've ever tried to find
the tweed jacket or a hacking jacket
405
00:28:39,880 --> 00:28:41,440
or a specific type of trench coat
406
00:28:41,560 --> 00:28:43,840
like Rick's trench coat
from Casablanca
407
00:28:43,920 --> 00:28:46,080
or his white double-breasted
dinner jacket,
408
00:28:46,160 --> 00:28:47,760
it doesn't exist anywhere.
409
00:28:47,840 --> 00:28:50,200
Then you'll walk into a Ralph Lauren
boutique and you're like:
410
00:28:50,320 --> 00:28:52,320
"Oh my God, he's made it."
411
00:28:53,120 --> 00:28:58,520
These are Ralph Lauren pants.
He has the kind of things I like.
412
00:28:59,120 --> 00:29:02,200
The tweed jackets
and those kind of shirts
413
00:29:02,280 --> 00:29:03,800
and corduroy trousers.
414
00:29:03,880 --> 00:29:08,760
But he doesn't dress me. I've been
dressing myself since I was 48.
415
00:29:11,640 --> 00:29:15,320
I've always thought of him as more
than just a fashion designer
416
00:29:15,400 --> 00:29:18,440
or a businessman,
I thought of him as a cultural force,
417
00:29:18,520 --> 00:29:21,800
that he changed the way that we all
looked at how we should dress
418
00:29:21,880 --> 00:29:23,000
and how we wanted to.
419
00:29:23,080 --> 00:29:25,680
Mr. Lauren is with us this morning
to talk about what's coming up
420
00:29:25,760 --> 00:29:28,400
in men's clothing,
about his own attitude toward design,
421
00:29:28,480 --> 00:29:31,280
and what we can expect to pay
in the weeks ahead.
422
00:29:31,680 --> 00:29:34,760
I came from a rural working-class
background, but I was ambitious.
423
00:29:34,840 --> 00:29:37,160
I didn't want to wear
the same suits my father wore.
424
00:29:37,240 --> 00:29:40,080
My father had one suit
and he wore it for everything.
425
00:29:40,280 --> 00:29:44,000
But even the best dressed guys in town
were all in old men's suits
426
00:29:44,080 --> 00:29:46,920
and I didn't want to do that.
But there were no other choices for us.
427
00:29:47,040 --> 00:29:50,000
Then suddenly,
there was this guy Ralph Lauren.
428
00:29:50,080 --> 00:29:53,720
There is an attitude about clothes today
that is much more relaxed
429
00:29:53,800 --> 00:29:55,840
and unfashionable fashion.
430
00:29:55,920 --> 00:30:00,080
And my role, in terms of what I've
believed in and what I wear,
431
00:30:00,160 --> 00:30:02,760
is that I don't really want to look
like a fashion plate.
432
00:30:03,120 --> 00:30:05,320
I remember talking
to certain people.
433
00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:07,200
They said: "Ralph, I'd love to wear
what you're wearing,"
434
00:30:07,280 --> 00:30:11,120
"but I can't. I don't know.
it's not me."
435
00:30:11,200 --> 00:30:14,840
"I like the jeans and I like the cowboy
boots and the tweed jacket."
436
00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:18,840
Now, every guy I know has tweeds
and jeans and cowboy boots.
437
00:30:22,280 --> 00:30:25,720
I think western clothes
are as traditional as a tweed jacket,
438
00:30:25,800 --> 00:30:28,520
and I love things that are not fashion.
439
00:30:28,640 --> 00:30:31,960
I love things that have
a sense of aging,
440
00:30:32,800 --> 00:30:35,480
that have a background
of lifestyle behind it.
441
00:30:37,760 --> 00:30:42,160
What I feel I've given is a certain
romantic fantasy to the clothes.
442
00:30:43,040 --> 00:30:45,320
He finds beauty in every aspect
of American culture,
443
00:30:45,400 --> 00:30:47,600
whether it be Native American,
whether it be cowboy,
444
00:30:47,680 --> 00:30:50,000
whether it's the Ivy League culture.
445
00:30:50,080 --> 00:30:53,080
And he finds the, sort of,
nobility in each of those
446
00:30:53,280 --> 00:30:56,880
and he created the idealized versions
of the clothing.
447
00:31:01,240 --> 00:31:05,560
Ralph Lauren democratized
the whole idea of what was stylish.
448
00:31:05,640 --> 00:31:09,760
And that's the story of America.
He was the first one to say:
449
00:31:09,840 --> 00:31:13,200
"No, you know, I think that the guy
that is the Gl"
450
00:31:13,520 --> 00:31:17,080
"or the guy that is the cowboy,
or the guy that's the working man"
451
00:31:17,200 --> 00:31:20,280
"he can be just as cool
as an aristocrat."
452
00:31:24,680 --> 00:31:29,600
The key to his success
is an instinctive understanding
453
00:31:29,840 --> 00:31:34,440
that his taste spoke for millions
and millions of people.
454
00:31:37,000 --> 00:31:41,680
It wasn't trying to figure out what
they like. It was what he liked.
455
00:31:41,760 --> 00:31:45,400
And he was betting that
what he liked, they would like,
456
00:31:45,520 --> 00:31:47,840
and he was very, very right.
457
00:31:49,880 --> 00:31:53,280
You think Ralph Lauren Polo.
That's what you think, Polo.
458
00:31:53,360 --> 00:31:56,360
The most exclusive,
kingly sport that there is.
459
00:31:56,440 --> 00:31:59,840
That requires you to own horses,
to know how to ride them.
460
00:32:00,040 --> 00:32:04,160
Ralph Lauren Polo.
It wouldn't be Ralph Lifshitz Polo.
461
00:32:04,240 --> 00:32:06,240
That wouldn't work.
462
00:32:06,560 --> 00:32:08,720
A lot of people thought that Ralph
had changed his name
463
00:32:08,840 --> 00:32:11,080
because he wanted
to be more WASPy.
464
00:32:11,280 --> 00:32:13,280
Absolutely not true.
465
00:32:15,440 --> 00:32:19,200
I am the person who created
the name change.
466
00:32:19,640 --> 00:32:24,920
Throughout life, having a name
like L-I-F-S-H-I-T-Z,
467
00:32:25,000 --> 00:32:28,960
Lifshitz, was a tough thing
to live with.
468
00:32:29,480 --> 00:32:34,360
Ralph and I both went
to the Rabbi Israel Salanter Yeshiva.
469
00:32:34,440 --> 00:32:37,760
And in Yeshiva, even though their
names were Goldberg and Silverberg
470
00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:41,600
and Silverstein and Cohen
and Lifshitz,
471
00:32:41,680 --> 00:32:44,480
somebody still said: "Hi, Shitzy."
472
00:32:44,560 --> 00:32:48,920
There was never a moment
when I want to escape my origins,
473
00:32:49,000 --> 00:32:53,960
but I said: "Lenny and Ralph,
I want to tell you something."
474
00:32:54,040 --> 00:32:58,440
"I'd like for us to change our names.
If you guys would like to do it,"
475
00:32:58,720 --> 00:33:02,120
"I'm ready to do it.
I don't need this shit anymore."
476
00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:06,800
When I read that,
the reference to his name,
477
00:33:06,880 --> 00:33:10,040
I think there was a smidgen
of anti-Semitism there.
478
00:33:10,200 --> 00:33:13,400
It was like: "Who's this little Jew
to tell us how to dress up ?"
479
00:33:13,480 --> 00:33:16,000
And I wrote a column
to defend Ralph Lauren.
480
00:33:16,080 --> 00:33:18,480
He was coming on, you know.
He was becoming bigger and bigger.
481
00:33:18,560 --> 00:33:21,040
And they always pointed out
that he was from the Bronx
482
00:33:21,120 --> 00:33:23,000
and his name was Lifshitz,
that's his real name.
483
00:33:23,080 --> 00:33:27,680
Elbow jab, "he's just a Lifshitz".
And I resented it.
484
00:33:27,760 --> 00:33:31,360
I said: "No ! This isn't something bad,
this is good !"
485
00:33:32,920 --> 00:33:37,240
And I likened Ralph to the Hollywood
moguls of the thirties and the forties.
486
00:33:38,680 --> 00:33:42,320
L.B. Mayer, who was the head
of the Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer studios.
487
00:33:43,240 --> 00:33:45,440
Sam Goldwyn, another one.
488
00:33:46,360 --> 00:33:49,920
The Warner brothers,
all but one were born overseas.
489
00:33:50,320 --> 00:33:52,080
You can go through the list and say:
490
00:33:52,160 --> 00:33:54,200
"They're all immigrants".
491
00:33:54,600 --> 00:33:57,560
These guys had an idea in their head.
492
00:33:57,640 --> 00:34:00,800
They were really good
when it came to feeling the pulse
493
00:34:00,880 --> 00:34:02,320
of the American people.
494
00:34:02,400 --> 00:34:03,800
Come this way, sir.
495
00:34:03,880 --> 00:34:05,850
HOLIDAY, 1938
496
00:34:06,000 --> 00:34:10,160
And that's the eye of the outsider.
That's what Ralph has.
497
00:34:12,160 --> 00:34:15,840
I thought that Ralph Lauren,
like these guys, created a look.
498
00:34:17,440 --> 00:34:21,040
He was telling people:
"This is the great american look."
499
00:34:21,120 --> 00:34:24,080
And how do I know it ? Because first,
he saw it in the movies.
500
00:34:24,360 --> 00:34:27,200
All you need is a frame now
and you'd be a masterpiece.
501
00:34:30,760 --> 00:34:32,160
My dad was a product of the movies.
502
00:34:32,240 --> 00:34:35,920
He grew up wanting to be like
the stars on the silver screen.
503
00:34:36,000 --> 00:34:38,000
He loved the style.
504
00:34:38,520 --> 00:34:42,160
He had heroes.
And I think those heroes inspired him.
505
00:34:44,120 --> 00:34:47,760
He wanted to be bigger and better
than where he came from.
506
00:34:47,840 --> 00:34:52,160
I think he had aspirations to not only
dress the part,
507
00:34:52,240 --> 00:34:55,880
but be the man and move past
his upbringing
508
00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:58,080
and become somebody special.
509
00:35:00,560 --> 00:35:03,080
Movies had a great impact on me
510
00:35:03,160 --> 00:35:08,040
because they opened a window
to a world that I didn't grow up with.
511
00:35:12,520 --> 00:35:15,760
The idealization of the WASPy
American dream
512
00:35:15,840 --> 00:35:18,400
is a Hollywood notion,
is a Jewish notion,
513
00:35:18,480 --> 00:35:20,600
is a fashion business notion
in America.
514
00:35:22,800 --> 00:35:28,240
And Ralph Lauren's work is very much
about class, about aspiration.
515
00:35:30,160 --> 00:35:32,320
Like Hollywood, he sold America
516
00:35:32,440 --> 00:35:34,720
on a version of the American dream.
517
00:35:38,440 --> 00:35:42,080
I was always inspired
by the '30's or '40's movies.
518
00:35:42,360 --> 00:35:45,280
Movies made somewhere
around the Depression.
519
00:35:45,640 --> 00:35:49,640
They always reminded me of happy,
make-believe glamour.
520
00:35:51,360 --> 00:35:53,920
Those movies have always made me
feel good.
521
00:35:55,000 --> 00:35:58,600
You could go to the movies for
ten cents and watch a comedy
522
00:35:58,680 --> 00:36:00,200
set in a penthouse,
523
00:36:00,320 --> 00:36:04,960
in which the ladies were wearing
bias-cut charmeuse evening gowns
524
00:36:05,040 --> 00:36:08,240
and the men were in impeccable
white tie or tuxedos.
525
00:36:08,320 --> 00:36:10,960
And everybody was smoking
and drinking martinis.
526
00:36:12,880 --> 00:36:16,400
This fantasy of the glamour
of a beautiful penthouse
527
00:36:16,560 --> 00:36:21,520
and an elegant party is one part
of the Ralph Lauren fantasy.
528
00:36:23,400 --> 00:36:25,560
In the Ralph Lauren version of that,
529
00:36:26,120 --> 00:36:29,240
it's only the elegance
and the beauty.
530
00:36:30,640 --> 00:36:32,040
Nobody's drunk.
531
00:36:32,120 --> 00:36:35,360
Nobody's throwing a martini glass
and smashing it.
532
00:36:38,600 --> 00:36:40,760
Ralph Lauren has always understood
533
00:36:40,840 --> 00:36:44,800
that people want the world
to be comfortable.
534
00:36:45,800 --> 00:36:50,040
They don't really want the world
to be full of edge and harshness
535
00:36:50,120 --> 00:36:53,840
and bitterness.
They want the world to be right.
536
00:36:54,200 --> 00:36:57,160
The brand is there
to make you smile.
537
00:36:57,400 --> 00:37:01,720
And to make you feel like
you're dressing the part.
538
00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:06,080
Ralph Lauren is not interested
in stirring the pot.
539
00:37:08,480 --> 00:37:11,040
He's not interested in the nitty gritty.
540
00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:17,720
In another era, he would have been one
of the great producers in Hollywood.
541
00:37:17,800 --> 00:37:20,160
He would've been able to conjure
those dreams
542
00:37:20,240 --> 00:37:23,320
that this kid from the Bronx saw
at the movie houses
543
00:37:23,440 --> 00:37:25,840
and wanted to fully engage in.
544
00:37:28,360 --> 00:37:31,520
With Ralph,
the proscenium has disappeared
545
00:37:31,640 --> 00:37:36,760
and he thinks it is possible
to walk through into the screen
546
00:37:37,560 --> 00:37:41,280
and be fully in those worlds,
just as he was.
547
00:37:46,120 --> 00:37:50,520
He has built his own world
from a very young age.
548
00:37:51,320 --> 00:37:53,250
And in that world,
549
00:37:53,400 --> 00:37:59,320
the romance, the allure,
the dream is alive.
550
00:38:00,120 --> 00:38:03,360
So it's not a dream anymore,
it's a dream manifested.
551
00:38:22,000 --> 00:38:25,680
I always wanted a beach house.
I had no money,
552
00:38:25,760 --> 00:38:28,400
so Ricky and I would just walk
around the beach and say:
553
00:38:28,480 --> 00:38:31,920
"If you could have anyway you'd want
to live, how would you want to live ?"
554
00:38:33,720 --> 00:38:36,000
This is such a beautiful spot.
555
00:38:37,640 --> 00:38:42,320
I have a very hectic life
and when I get away,
556
00:38:42,440 --> 00:38:46,000
I need to get away where I have
the simplicity of life.
557
00:38:50,320 --> 00:38:53,760
And I do feel
that my family comes first.
558
00:38:57,080 --> 00:39:00,360
My birthday money from when
I was a little girl went to
559
00:39:00,920 --> 00:39:02,920
starting our family.
560
00:39:03,760 --> 00:39:05,530
And I was an only child,
561
00:39:05,680 --> 00:39:11,560
so having three children was a big deal
for me. I was so happy.
562
00:39:12,000 --> 00:39:14,840
And it was my job to be the mother.
563
00:39:15,520 --> 00:39:20,640
To be there to support Ralph
as he went forward with his dreams.
564
00:39:21,440 --> 00:39:25,080
And it was important for us all
to be part of his dreams,
565
00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:28,320
living the dreams together.
566
00:39:31,080 --> 00:39:33,600
My children were always part
of everything.
567
00:39:37,360 --> 00:39:40,320
We weren't very social because
I have never had time.
568
00:39:40,400 --> 00:39:42,000
I wanted to be with my family.
569
00:39:42,080 --> 00:39:45,160
So on weekends, where everyone's
going to everyone's houses,
570
00:39:45,680 --> 00:39:47,200
I remember saying to a friend:
571
00:39:47,280 --> 00:39:49,120
"I'd love to be with you,
but it's summer."
572
00:39:49,240 --> 00:39:51,240
"I'm gonna be with my family."
573
00:39:51,760 --> 00:39:55,520
I remember walking with Ricky one day.
And in East Hampton,
574
00:39:55,600 --> 00:39:57,680
there are parties on the weekends.
575
00:39:58,320 --> 00:40:00,560
And all of a sudden,
we were not invited to anything.
576
00:40:00,640 --> 00:40:04,560
I'd see cars parked in front
of all these houses,
577
00:40:04,640 --> 00:40:07,120
people going to parties,
to dinner parties.
578
00:40:07,200 --> 00:40:09,520
"I guess they forgot about us, Ricky."
579
00:40:12,840 --> 00:40:16,360
Sometimes you want to be invited,
but you don't necessarily want to go.
580
00:40:16,440 --> 00:40:19,680
But when they stop inviting you,
then there's a problem.
581
00:40:23,800 --> 00:40:27,120
Ralph totally believes
in the importance of family.
582
00:40:27,200 --> 00:40:28,880
It's rare to see him out and about.
583
00:40:28,960 --> 00:40:32,000
Ralph in a way is quite isolated.
584
00:40:32,440 --> 00:40:35,040
And he has a very close-knit group,
585
00:40:35,160 --> 00:40:38,360
with whom he feels comfortable
and can be himself.
586
00:40:38,600 --> 00:40:41,840
His family and people
that have been with him for years.
587
00:40:42,640 --> 00:40:45,680
I think he feels most at home,
and most secure
588
00:40:45,760 --> 00:40:49,160
in these amazing environments
that he's created for himself.
589
00:40:49,640 --> 00:40:52,840
And maybe remaining in that cocoon
590
00:40:52,920 --> 00:40:56,600
has kept his vision strong.
591
00:41:04,320 --> 00:41:06,520
Remember the layering looks good too.
592
00:41:06,600 --> 00:41:08,800
Do we have any more
of those dresses ?
593
00:41:09,200 --> 00:41:12,960
Do we have any more dresses
than this ? More dresses ?
594
00:41:15,960 --> 00:41:19,000
After I had success,
it built on more success.
595
00:41:19,200 --> 00:41:20,930
We need more of this.
Do we have more ?
596
00:41:21,080 --> 00:41:23,840
And I started to believe
I can do things.
597
00:41:25,600 --> 00:41:27,000
And it kept coming.
598
00:41:27,080 --> 00:41:29,880
But I didn't think I would ever do
women's clothes.
599
00:41:30,440 --> 00:41:32,440
I'd lose the color here.
600
00:41:33,040 --> 00:41:35,440
I want to see how this could look
a little sexier,
601
00:41:35,560 --> 00:41:37,880
a little more evening.
602
00:41:38,240 --> 00:41:41,760
Because it looks a looks a little young.
I love the way we look here.
603
00:41:44,160 --> 00:41:46,720
Menswear is easier for me
because I'm a man.
604
00:41:46,800 --> 00:41:48,120
I can say that I want those pants.
605
00:41:48,200 --> 00:41:52,080
But when I'm doing women's clothes,
I feel like I've stretched.
606
00:41:52,400 --> 00:41:55,480
I need it to be more sophisticated.
607
00:41:58,000 --> 00:42:00,200
Let's see without your hat.
608
00:42:02,720 --> 00:42:06,880
I think you can fix this up,
but the white skirt bothers me a little.
609
00:42:10,120 --> 00:42:13,920
He knows the fabric,
he knows the silhouette.
610
00:42:14,120 --> 00:42:16,600
She looks sophisticated.
That's what I like.
611
00:42:16,680 --> 00:42:18,360
He knows what he wants to say.
612
00:42:18,440 --> 00:42:20,360
They look a little too overpowered.
613
00:42:20,440 --> 00:42:23,880
He's shown it all
by the people who bring it in.
614
00:42:23,960 --> 00:42:26,320
And he'll go:
"That, that, that, that."
615
00:42:26,760 --> 00:42:28,680
That's beautiful.
It could be day or night.
616
00:42:28,800 --> 00:42:30,840
It depends on what we don't have.
617
00:42:31,680 --> 00:42:33,330
The red could be good.
618
00:42:33,480 --> 00:42:36,880
This is very sophisticated.
Let me see that.
619
00:42:41,080 --> 00:42:43,000
That's good. Let me see that.
620
00:42:43,080 --> 00:42:46,960
One of the great delights of Ralph
is just this sense that his woman can be
621
00:42:47,040 --> 00:42:51,480
in an absolutely drop-dead,
incredible, simple black dress.
622
00:42:53,360 --> 00:42:57,560
And at the same time, astride a horse,
wearing a beautiful silk t-shirt
623
00:42:57,640 --> 00:43:00,120
and a pair of well-cut jeans.
624
00:43:00,440 --> 00:43:03,240
I just think that he loves women
in a way
625
00:43:03,320 --> 00:43:06,480
that other fashion designers really
just don't.
626
00:43:06,800 --> 00:43:09,240
He understands women,
he respects women.
627
00:43:09,320 --> 00:43:12,400
Maybe she doesn't need a matching
belt because of the belt on the jacket.
628
00:43:12,840 --> 00:43:14,840
He celebrates women.
629
00:43:15,600 --> 00:43:18,200
- That's good, that's perfect.
- That's a great mix.
630
00:43:19,920 --> 00:43:24,600
Womenswear really started because
Ricky and I were saying:
631
00:43:24,680 --> 00:43:28,680
"Gosh, those are great men's clothes.
Make 'em smaller."
632
00:43:28,760 --> 00:43:30,760
"We wanna wear them."
633
00:43:31,120 --> 00:43:36,080
With Ricky first, we'd go shopping
and she'd go into a boys store
634
00:43:36,160 --> 00:43:39,040
that had hacking jackets
and so I'd put the jacket on Ricky
635
00:43:39,120 --> 00:43:42,840
and say: "That looks great. I want
that. That's what I wanna do."
636
00:43:42,920 --> 00:43:48,080
He said: "Well, I think my muse would
look wonderful if she wore slacks"
637
00:43:48,160 --> 00:43:51,440
"that were pleated. And put her
hands in her pockets"
638
00:43:51,640 --> 00:43:55,720
"and had a great man tailored jacket."
639
00:43:56,240 --> 00:44:00,880
"Or a beautiful silk shirt with a bow.
Or even a necktie."
640
00:44:01,680 --> 00:44:03,720
He was seeing me
641
00:44:03,800 --> 00:44:07,600
and making things for me the way
he thought I would look good.
642
00:44:07,880 --> 00:44:12,080
And he certainly knew how to do
the men's tailoring for women.
643
00:44:13,880 --> 00:44:18,000
The first things we did for women,
when I first started,
644
00:44:18,080 --> 00:44:21,360
were shirts, but they were made
in the men's factory.
645
00:44:22,080 --> 00:44:26,560
He had an image in his mind's eye
of what the collar should be.
646
00:44:26,760 --> 00:44:30,800
And the stitches per inch
and what kind of buttons it should be
647
00:44:30,920 --> 00:44:33,360
and what the width of the plaque
it should be.
648
00:44:33,880 --> 00:44:37,120
The tailor would go back and make
something and show Ralph
649
00:44:37,240 --> 00:44:39,600
and then we'd fix it
and tweak it some more
650
00:44:39,680 --> 00:44:41,920
and back and forth
and back and forth.
651
00:44:42,920 --> 00:44:48,320
The attention to every single detail
on the shirt took an entire day,
652
00:44:48,640 --> 00:44:51,280
to fit and perfect one shirt.
653
00:44:54,040 --> 00:44:58,280
At the beginning, Ralph would have
the fashion show in his office,
654
00:44:58,360 --> 00:45:03,320
which was a living room with a fireplace
and we'd have folding chairs.
655
00:45:03,560 --> 00:45:06,000
Ralph would stand in front
of the fireplace.
656
00:45:06,080 --> 00:45:09,800
He would talk about the clothes,
it was very informal.
657
00:45:09,880 --> 00:45:13,440
And he had Persian rugs
and velvet sofas.
658
00:45:14,000 --> 00:45:18,200
And the showrooms were
what would have been bedrooms.
659
00:45:18,280 --> 00:45:20,440
Didn't look like
anybody else's showroom
660
00:45:20,520 --> 00:45:23,120
because it was somebody's apartment.
661
00:45:23,280 --> 00:45:26,800
He just loved the idea
of this homey place.
662
00:45:27,960 --> 00:45:30,720
The first small show I did
in my offices.
663
00:45:30,840 --> 00:45:33,080
I had never been to a fashion show.
664
00:45:33,160 --> 00:45:35,320
After that show,
I called my staff in,
665
00:45:35,440 --> 00:45:37,240
which was two people, I think.
666
00:45:37,320 --> 00:45:40,240
I said: "I just want you to know that
this is it.
667
00:45:40,320 --> 00:45:42,760
"I want to quit the women's.
I want to leave on top."
668
00:45:42,840 --> 00:45:46,400
"I had a good show and I don't think
I can go anywhere else."
669
00:45:46,800 --> 00:45:48,200
How am I gonna do skirts ?
670
00:45:48,280 --> 00:45:50,600
I don't know anything about skirts
and dresses.
671
00:45:50,680 --> 00:45:52,490
I didn't have enough training.
672
00:45:52,640 --> 00:45:56,400
But I found seamstresses and sewers
on Seventh Avenue
673
00:45:56,520 --> 00:45:59,040
and had them sketch the looks
of the girls
674
00:45:59,160 --> 00:46:01,080
and what I thought
they should look like.
675
00:46:01,160 --> 00:46:03,400
And then we made the clothes
based on that.
676
00:46:19,480 --> 00:46:21,560
Back in the 70's and 80's,
677
00:46:21,640 --> 00:46:24,840
he defined how the American woman
was changing.
678
00:46:25,840 --> 00:46:27,920
How a modern woman was emerging
679
00:46:28,040 --> 00:46:30,440
and what her needs were
and what her life was.
680
00:46:35,040 --> 00:46:38,080
He saw their liberation,
he saw their freedom.
681
00:46:39,720 --> 00:46:42,840
Whenever you have a designer
putting a woman in a tuxedo,
682
00:46:42,920 --> 00:46:47,760
you're going against the idea of
and the stereotype,
683
00:46:47,840 --> 00:46:50,720
of what a woman is supposed to be
and what is she supposed to look like.
684
00:46:52,160 --> 00:46:55,600
He just had this vision
of the Ralph Lauren woman.
685
00:46:56,000 --> 00:46:59,040
Fresh, American, natural,
686
00:47:00,200 --> 00:47:02,880
different than what been
going on before.
687
00:47:04,520 --> 00:47:07,400
I'd been modeling
for French designers.
688
00:47:08,120 --> 00:47:11,000
Everything was like a caricature.
689
00:47:11,080 --> 00:47:13,560
Purple fuchsia lipstick,
690
00:47:13,680 --> 00:47:17,360
lacquer on the eyes,
lacquer on the hair.
691
00:47:17,440 --> 00:47:18,800
And Ralph said:
692
00:47:18,880 --> 00:47:24,440
"Wash her face. Brush her hair.
No makeup."
693
00:47:25,480 --> 00:47:27,840
And I remember thinking at the time:
694
00:47:29,240 --> 00:47:31,840
"Oh my God,
this is something new !"
695
00:47:33,920 --> 00:47:37,280
I was so stunned
because for the first time,
696
00:47:37,360 --> 00:47:41,880
it was a picture of me.
A picture of a woman.
697
00:47:42,520 --> 00:47:45,840
It wasn't a picture
of somebody's beauty ideal.
698
00:47:52,320 --> 00:47:56,360
If Ralph has one regret, it'll be
that he was not a movie director.
699
00:47:57,560 --> 00:48:00,600
I could see just how cinematic
his mind is.
700
00:48:01,000 --> 00:48:02,680
When he talks about an ad campaign,
701
00:48:02,800 --> 00:48:05,520
he's not about trying
to sell his clothes.
702
00:48:06,080 --> 00:48:08,840
He understands almost
more than anyone I've met
703
00:48:08,920 --> 00:48:10,920
the potency of the American Dream.
704
00:48:24,160 --> 00:48:26,360
He had a very big story to tell.
705
00:48:27,160 --> 00:48:31,400
How better to do it than to have the
New York Times Magazine come out
706
00:48:31,520 --> 00:48:36,160
and you've got a 17-page spread
of beautiful people,
707
00:48:37,200 --> 00:48:39,680
beautiful life, beautiful lifestyle.
708
00:48:40,680 --> 00:48:44,000
Something that is aspirational,
but attainable.
709
00:48:45,000 --> 00:48:47,000
He was the first to do it.
710
00:48:47,480 --> 00:48:50,400
And when the ads came in,
it was like an event.
711
00:48:50,600 --> 00:48:52,320
People wanted to see that campaign,
712
00:48:52,400 --> 00:48:55,640
it was as much of a thing
in the culture
713
00:48:55,720 --> 00:48:59,120
as the release
of a new book or film.
714
00:48:59,200 --> 00:49:03,880
As Polo Ralph Lauren began
to become a national presence,
715
00:49:04,520 --> 00:49:07,240
those ads created an image
716
00:49:07,600 --> 00:49:12,200
that was incredibly powerful,
deeply alluring.
717
00:49:14,640 --> 00:49:17,480
And different
from what other people were doing.
718
00:49:23,840 --> 00:49:27,200
If you look at the early ads,
we would go off and shoot
719
00:49:27,760 --> 00:49:30,040
sometimes two weeks at a time.
720
00:49:30,640 --> 00:49:33,200
And we would pack up
all these suitcases.
721
00:49:33,280 --> 00:49:37,240
Men's clothes and the women's clothes
and the children's clothes
722
00:49:37,480 --> 00:49:39,480
and the home collections.
723
00:49:39,560 --> 00:49:43,040
And we'd create,
you know, that world
724
00:49:49,000 --> 00:49:53,680
We cast our movies.
Most of them were not models.
725
00:49:54,840 --> 00:49:57,480
One of the men was an architect
726
00:49:57,720 --> 00:50:02,280
and was the husband of the fashion
editor of Mademoiselle Magazine.
727
00:50:02,360 --> 00:50:06,320
And Ralph thought he had great style.
He had this moustache.
728
00:50:06,400 --> 00:50:11,000
We had sisters of somebody
and children of these people.
729
00:50:11,920 --> 00:50:14,800
Ralph would find some,
Bruce would find some.
730
00:50:15,240 --> 00:50:17,680
Buffy would grab
like a piece of jewelry
731
00:50:17,760 --> 00:50:21,840
that she really loved and Ralph
would give us things from his closet.
732
00:50:21,920 --> 00:50:25,000
It wasn't the normal way of working
in the fashion business,
733
00:50:25,080 --> 00:50:27,080
where it was storyboarded.
734
00:50:27,880 --> 00:50:31,480
One of the things that drew
Ralph to Bruce Weber,
735
00:50:31,560 --> 00:50:35,200
Bruce's pictures were very evocative
736
00:50:35,280 --> 00:50:38,000
and very real and very anti-fashion.
737
00:50:38,720 --> 00:50:42,000
Usually, you have an agency
that comes and they research
738
00:50:42,120 --> 00:50:44,120
and they give you a look.
739
00:50:44,280 --> 00:50:46,640
I didn't need the agency for that.
740
00:50:47,120 --> 00:50:49,680
I knew exactly who I was
and what I wanted to say
741
00:50:49,800 --> 00:50:52,240
and I knew what I wanted
for advertising.
742
00:50:53,760 --> 00:50:55,760
I needed to tell a story.
743
00:50:56,120 --> 00:51:00,080
When I was on the set,
they would give me all these stories.
744
00:51:00,400 --> 00:51:04,680
"Tim, this is your house.
You just inherited it from your uncle."
745
00:51:05,040 --> 00:51:07,680
"But you try not to let
the other family members know yet."
746
00:51:07,760 --> 00:51:10,040
"And then Isabelle's your wife."
747
00:51:10,520 --> 00:51:13,320
They dress you up
in these beautiful clothes.
748
00:51:13,400 --> 00:51:16,800
By the time you starts shooting,
I mean you really believe this.
749
00:51:19,400 --> 00:51:22,200
I'd pick the girls, I'd pick the guys,
750
00:51:22,280 --> 00:51:24,280
I gave them the background.
751
00:51:26,960 --> 00:51:29,720
It's not even about the clothes.
752
00:51:30,480 --> 00:51:35,520
It really creates
the cinematic vision of a life.
753
00:51:40,440 --> 00:51:44,760
In working with Bruce, who is such
an American photographer
754
00:51:44,840 --> 00:51:48,280
and so much adores the American way
of life and family
755
00:51:48,400 --> 00:51:51,480
and children and dogs
and horses,
756
00:51:51,920 --> 00:51:57,520
together they created this Ralph Lauren
myth that exists today.
757
00:51:59,880 --> 00:52:05,320
If Ralph is called out for anything,
and called out is a big phrase,
758
00:52:05,440 --> 00:52:07,680
because it's very hard to argue
with the man's success,
759
00:52:07,760 --> 00:52:12,800
it is for the constancy
of his aspirational point-of-view,
760
00:52:12,880 --> 00:52:15,200
and his optimistic point-of-view.
761
00:52:16,520 --> 00:52:21,720
He's a patriot, so he channels
all these dreams about America
762
00:52:21,800 --> 00:52:26,040
uncritically into his work
and everybody is overjoyed to see them
763
00:52:26,120 --> 00:52:28,680
because they wanna believe that too.
764
00:52:28,960 --> 00:52:32,440
Americans are very attached
to our utopian notions.
765
00:52:36,000 --> 00:52:39,760
We'd done some pictures
of just this pristine white barn
766
00:52:39,840 --> 00:52:41,360
and it was a misty morning.
767
00:52:41,440 --> 00:52:43,360
And he said: "That's my ad."
768
00:52:43,440 --> 00:52:45,120
It just said Ralph Lauren Country.
769
00:52:45,240 --> 00:52:47,640
There were no models,
there was nothing.
770
00:52:47,920 --> 00:52:50,240
And I just remember Bruce Weber said:
771
00:52:50,360 --> 00:52:53,760
"That's one of the bravest things
I think Ralph ever did in advertising."
772
00:52:55,440 --> 00:52:58,360
You wanted to step into that picture
773
00:52:58,440 --> 00:53:02,320
and you wanted to live in that world
and you wanted to live in that barn.
774
00:53:07,000 --> 00:53:10,280
I think people have sometimes
dismissed Ralph as a marketer
775
00:53:10,360 --> 00:53:14,360
because his advertising campaigns
were so extraordinarily visionary.
776
00:53:16,400 --> 00:53:19,080
You are not just buying
an article of clothing.
777
00:53:19,160 --> 00:53:24,960
You've joined a narrative. And that's
very different than what fashion is.
778
00:53:28,240 --> 00:53:33,040
The ads had a language of elegance
and a timeless, classic quality.
779
00:53:33,600 --> 00:53:35,320
It was a lifestyle that spoke to me
780
00:53:35,400 --> 00:53:38,480
as a young aspiring black man
in the South.
781
00:53:38,560 --> 00:53:40,920
It's a classic statement about style.
782
00:53:42,920 --> 00:53:47,760
Ralph Lauren also broke
the codes when he had Tyson Beckford
783
00:53:48,000 --> 00:53:50,000
in those beautiful fitted suits.
784
00:53:51,480 --> 00:53:55,160
You opened the magazine, a GQ,
and you saw that it was just like:
785
00:53:55,240 --> 00:53:57,160
"Oh my God,
what is this, who is this ?"
786
00:53:57,240 --> 00:53:59,800
Even I said: "Who is this ?"
787
00:54:01,120 --> 00:54:02,840
This young man comes along,
788
00:54:02,920 --> 00:54:06,520
and I guess it was just
in Ralphs eye.
789
00:54:07,080 --> 00:54:11,880
Tyson had something that was street,
yet elegant. And he was dark
790
00:54:12,080 --> 00:54:14,080
and very handsome.
791
00:54:14,680 --> 00:54:17,560
It was a big thing
in the black community
792
00:54:17,640 --> 00:54:23,240
for someone of my color and my mixed
race to be in something like that.
793
00:54:23,520 --> 00:54:26,400
No one had done that before,
on that level.
794
00:54:27,240 --> 00:54:30,960
Here is a black man in a three,
four thousand dollar suit
795
00:54:31,320 --> 00:54:34,000
in a GQ magazine.
796
00:54:34,080 --> 00:54:39,080
Wall Street guys were looking
at this and CEOs, businessmen,
797
00:54:39,160 --> 00:54:42,520
were looking like: "This suit is nice.
This is really nice."
798
00:54:42,600 --> 00:54:44,600
"I need to go get this."
799
00:54:48,560 --> 00:54:53,560
Ralph has always, at a time when
it was not so socially acceptable,
800
00:54:53,640 --> 00:54:55,120
championed diversity.
801
00:54:55,200 --> 00:54:57,880
He was one of the first to use
African-Americans
802
00:54:57,960 --> 00:55:01,600
in a very meaningful way
in his advertising campaigns
803
00:55:01,840 --> 00:55:03,840
and in his runway shows.
804
00:55:04,720 --> 00:55:10,240
It wasn't a token person.
You know, let's just check that box.
805
00:55:10,800 --> 00:55:15,360
He would use them
in remarkably strong images
806
00:55:15,440 --> 00:55:18,360
and they would become the face
of Ralph Lauren.
807
00:55:18,440 --> 00:55:23,120
And not many other people were doing it
at the time Ralph stood up and did it.
808
00:55:24,000 --> 00:55:28,400
It was a big deal to have
two people of color
809
00:55:28,480 --> 00:55:32,400
be in a nationwide
or worldwide ad campaign.
810
00:55:34,200 --> 00:55:37,280
When you can create a point
of intersection,
811
00:55:37,360 --> 00:55:41,720
between enough popularity to make
a very large and successful business
812
00:55:41,840 --> 00:55:45,640
and enough creativity
to make it feel interesting,
813
00:55:46,240 --> 00:55:48,440
then you're kind of on to something.
814
00:56:12,000 --> 00:56:14,840
Ralph has been inspired
by so many things
815
00:56:14,920 --> 00:56:18,200
that he hasn't been confined
to one look.
816
00:56:20,960 --> 00:56:23,400
I'm taking things from different worlds.
817
00:56:24,400 --> 00:56:26,960
And there are certain things
that I love.
818
00:56:28,720 --> 00:56:30,610
Military,
819
00:56:30,760 --> 00:56:32,760
safari.
820
00:56:34,880 --> 00:56:36,880
Western,
821
00:56:37,120 --> 00:56:39,120
English riding.
822
00:56:40,360 --> 00:56:42,560
They're all romantic stories.
823
00:56:45,120 --> 00:56:49,320
When I'm working on a collection,
I'm thinking of characters
824
00:56:49,400 --> 00:56:53,120
and people and movies and books.
825
00:56:53,480 --> 00:56:57,160
They're all part of what goes in
and then comes out
826
00:56:57,240 --> 00:57:00,000
and things that I never knew I had,
827
00:57:00,120 --> 00:57:02,520
things that I never knew
I carried with me,
828
00:57:02,800 --> 00:57:05,240
are revealed as I start to work.
829
00:57:05,680 --> 00:57:09,960
My childhood, and growing up,
and my dreams of future,
830
00:57:10,560 --> 00:57:12,280
everything I've experienced,
831
00:57:12,360 --> 00:57:14,360
everything I've seen.
832
00:57:14,640 --> 00:57:18,480
The creative process to him
is like breathing.
833
00:57:19,240 --> 00:57:22,640
There's walls full of clothes
and sketches.
834
00:57:23,360 --> 00:57:26,160
The inspiration can come
from anywhere.
835
00:57:26,240 --> 00:57:29,680
From an old book, from a painting
he might have seen.
836
00:57:30,000 --> 00:57:34,440
Something in a magazine
that sparked his imagination.
837
00:57:36,400 --> 00:57:39,080
The movie, Aviator,
was coming out and I said:
838
00:57:39,160 --> 00:57:41,240
"That's what I want to do."
839
00:57:41,720 --> 00:57:44,520
And I just started to work
on my next season's collection.
840
00:57:45,680 --> 00:57:49,320
I had to take that
and build a whole world around it.
841
00:57:51,680 --> 00:57:54,040
If he's got the aviator mood,
he's in a room
842
00:57:54,120 --> 00:57:57,400
and there's Amelia Earhart and there
might even be Katharine Hepburn.
843
00:57:57,480 --> 00:58:00,960
He had done all the research
of the aviator looks.
844
00:58:01,840 --> 00:58:04,800
All of that,
it's all in the mood boards.
845
00:58:05,040 --> 00:58:07,880
These are rooms,
they are the mood rooms.
846
00:58:08,400 --> 00:58:12,280
He's gathering information,
and it's very, kind of, free-form.
847
00:58:12,640 --> 00:58:16,240
And the characters, they're coming
to him as he's working.
848
00:58:17,520 --> 00:58:21,360
It's like an artist, keeps adding
a layer, keeps adding a new color.
849
00:58:23,440 --> 00:58:25,680
It's like building a statue out of clay,
850
00:58:25,760 --> 00:58:29,520
you take these pieces of clay
and then you start to mold it.
851
00:58:30,520 --> 00:58:32,520
Everything is about a story.
852
00:58:33,840 --> 00:58:36,040
It's never about a blouse
or a pair of pants.
853
00:58:36,120 --> 00:58:39,040
He's from the same home town
as Antonio Banderas
854
00:58:39,120 --> 00:58:41,840
He had a vision of the Riviera.
855
00:58:43,640 --> 00:58:46,720
Gerald and Sarah Murphy,
Picasso,
856
00:58:47,240 --> 00:58:51,520
the whole expat American thing
back in the 30's.
857
00:58:52,200 --> 00:58:54,200
Hemingway had an effect.
858
00:58:55,320 --> 00:58:58,960
It's just something to spur you on.
So sometimes that's a whole collection,
859
00:58:59,040 --> 00:59:01,160
Sometimes it's a little piece
of something.
860
00:59:08,560 --> 00:59:10,880
It just takes one spark like that.
861
00:59:10,960 --> 00:59:14,440
A picture, a little raggy piece
of denim and he's off.
862
00:59:17,480 --> 00:59:19,600
It's never a literal thing.
863
00:59:20,080 --> 00:59:23,480
It gives you a sense about the color,
the texture,
864
00:59:24,400 --> 00:59:26,400
the mood of the clothes.
865
00:59:27,880 --> 00:59:31,360
It's about wear-ability,
it's about understatement.
866
00:59:31,640 --> 00:59:34,720
I believe in timelessness
that doesn't go out with the trend,
867
00:59:34,800 --> 00:59:36,800
that doesn't go out with age.
868
00:59:39,160 --> 00:59:42,880
What he does is take things
from the world
869
00:59:43,240 --> 00:59:46,520
and embrace
and synthesize influences.
870
00:59:50,640 --> 00:59:54,720
He is not somebody who created
an entirely original way
871
00:59:54,800 --> 00:59:56,800
of seeing and doing things.
872
00:59:58,000 --> 01:00:01,840
Ralph Lauren is not where you turn
for the cutting edge.
873
01:00:01,920 --> 01:00:03,920
That he leaves to other people.
874
01:00:04,640 --> 01:00:08,640
You do not need to have
an intellectual view of fashion
875
01:00:09,160 --> 01:00:13,560
to like Ralph Lauren's work.
You viscerally respond to it.
876
01:00:16,720 --> 01:00:18,720
Not everything works
877
01:00:19,200 --> 01:00:22,880
when you've gotta pull from
your toes through your throat
878
01:00:22,960 --> 01:00:24,960
to get this thing happen.
879
01:00:25,920 --> 01:00:28,720
You sort of have to have
an editor's eye and say:
880
01:00:28,800 --> 01:00:30,920
"I don't think this is good,
put it away."
881
01:00:31,080 --> 01:00:33,720
We always get nervous
when you go on vacation.
882
01:00:33,840 --> 01:00:36,800
After you've signed off on everything,
883
01:00:37,160 --> 01:00:39,800
maybe Buffy will get a phone call.
"I'm rethinking..."
884
01:00:40,160 --> 01:00:45,240
We started one collection
and we were halfway through it.
885
01:00:46,800 --> 01:00:48,760
Bought sample yardage,
886
01:00:48,840 --> 01:00:51,840
we had walls full of clothes
and sketches.
887
01:00:51,920 --> 01:00:57,320
Ralph came back from the holidays
and said: "It's wrong."
888
01:00:57,400 --> 01:01:00,720
I said: "Wait a minute, I can make it
more sophisticated"
889
01:01:00,840 --> 01:01:02,800
"because I don't wanna
look like yesterday."
890
01:01:02,880 --> 01:01:05,800
The next meeting, everything
came off the walls, and he said:
891
01:01:05,880 --> 01:01:11,520
"I think I want to do something cleaner,
sleeker, more contemporary."
892
01:01:11,600 --> 01:01:14,960
"I think I wanna do something
beautiful with grey flannel."
893
01:01:15,560 --> 01:01:20,320
We went and we ordered
all new piece goods.
894
01:01:20,400 --> 01:01:24,000
Creme, creme cashmere,
light grey cashmere,
895
01:01:24,360 --> 01:01:26,360
beautiful mauves and pinks.
896
01:01:30,160 --> 01:01:32,280
And it was a scramble.
897
01:01:32,360 --> 01:01:34,760
But we believe in his instincts
898
01:01:35,280 --> 01:01:37,640
and everyone gets on board.
899
01:01:43,440 --> 01:01:46,920
He has created a team. He sets
a template, he has a DNA.
900
01:01:47,000 --> 01:01:51,160
Everybody understands absolutely
what Ralph really wants.
901
01:01:51,560 --> 01:01:54,560
He's had many of the same people
working for him for years.
902
01:01:57,440 --> 01:02:00,880
I don't do anything alone,
I work with a team of people.
903
01:02:02,360 --> 01:02:05,600
My company's like a repertory.
It's like a family.
904
01:02:07,040 --> 01:02:09,160
They're good, and they understand.
905
01:02:09,400 --> 01:02:12,720
It's a team that's been developed
with my message.
906
01:02:13,400 --> 01:02:15,210
You can't do this alone.
907
01:02:15,360 --> 01:02:18,560
- The contrast here.
- Yeah, the contrast...
908
01:02:19,640 --> 01:02:23,880
One of the things Ralph has always
loved is contradiction.
909
01:02:25,240 --> 01:02:28,280
There's an amazing picture of Naomi
Campbell wearing
910
01:02:28,360 --> 01:02:32,080
like this slinky, beautiful, gold,
glistening dress,
911
01:02:32,160 --> 01:02:35,600
and Ralph throws a safari jacket
over her shoulders.
912
01:02:42,680 --> 01:02:44,840
All high end designers
are trying to deal with
913
01:02:44,960 --> 01:02:48,000
how do you adapt luxury
to the increasingly casual lifestyle.
914
01:02:48,080 --> 01:02:52,080
But Ralph sort of forged a lifestyle
concept before it was a thing.
915
01:02:52,200 --> 01:02:54,600
He did a lot of things
before they were things.
916
01:02:54,680 --> 01:02:56,680
And that's one of them.
917
01:03:03,320 --> 01:03:08,800
Ralph's whole immersion into
performance wear and athletic wear
918
01:03:08,880 --> 01:03:12,960
was a huge thing and it really grew
out of his belief
919
01:03:13,040 --> 01:03:15,320
in the lifestyle concept.
920
01:03:15,920 --> 01:03:18,200
Now, so many people
are jumping to do yoga pants.
921
01:03:18,280 --> 01:03:19,840
Ralph Lauren got into it
a long time ago.
922
01:03:19,920 --> 01:03:23,400
He saw that it wasn't antithetical
to who he is as a designer,
923
01:03:23,520 --> 01:03:25,520
or of his message.
924
01:03:26,360 --> 01:03:29,040
This isn't a change.
It's an expansion.
925
01:03:29,160 --> 01:03:31,800
It's an evolution.
An extension of casual.
926
01:03:34,200 --> 01:03:36,720
And it's funny today that all the young
guys are talking about
927
01:03:36,840 --> 01:03:38,960
wearing track pants
with suit jackets.
928
01:03:39,040 --> 01:03:41,240
And they're like
this is what's happening right now,
929
01:03:41,320 --> 01:03:43,240
it's all about the adaptability
and about expressing
930
01:03:43,320 --> 01:03:45,440
the relationship
with the urban environment.
931
01:03:45,520 --> 01:03:48,760
Guys, Ralph Lauren
was doing that 35 years ago.
932
01:03:49,560 --> 01:03:51,360
If you look back at his history,
933
01:03:51,440 --> 01:03:55,320
you see so much of what designers
are thinking about today.
934
01:03:55,440 --> 01:04:00,560
Taking these very simple items that
you see kids wearing on the street,
935
01:04:00,640 --> 01:04:03,240
whether it's a jogging pant
or a parka or a t-shirt,
936
01:04:03,320 --> 01:04:05,320
and making them fashion.
937
01:04:06,200 --> 01:04:09,080
And Ralph was the first to do that,
and to understand that.
938
01:04:09,160 --> 01:04:14,760
In a way to see how street style would
become the world's uniform.
939
01:04:15,960 --> 01:04:17,530
I had the timing.
940
01:04:17,680 --> 01:04:19,760
Timing when the mood is there.
941
01:04:19,840 --> 01:04:22,200
Who are you ?
What's happening in the world ?
942
01:04:23,120 --> 01:04:26,760
But you have to have a strong vision
and staying power.
943
01:04:28,760 --> 01:04:31,640
For every good designer,
944
01:04:31,840 --> 01:04:35,000
the clothes are an extension
of the person.
945
01:04:35,600 --> 01:04:40,040
It has to come from within him,
and it clearly does.
946
01:04:40,600 --> 01:04:45,320
And his idea was,
it wasn't just a collection of clothes.
947
01:04:45,760 --> 01:04:50,440
It was this complete lifestyle.
And it was all consistent
948
01:04:50,520 --> 01:04:52,640
with this dream that he has.
949
01:04:54,520 --> 01:04:56,920
He really put the world together.
950
01:04:57,000 --> 01:04:59,640
Children, furniture, men's, women's.
951
01:04:59,720 --> 01:05:02,320
The pillows, the sheets,
the blankets.
952
01:05:03,200 --> 01:05:05,200
The duffel bag.
953
01:05:06,120 --> 01:05:08,520
Ralph Lauren was
the very first fashion designer
954
01:05:08,680 --> 01:05:11,200
to design a full home collection.
955
01:05:14,760 --> 01:05:18,960
He took lifestyle and made it
haute style.
956
01:05:19,040 --> 01:05:22,800
He took simple,
everyday beautiful things
957
01:05:22,880 --> 01:05:25,320
and made everybody covet them.
958
01:05:26,040 --> 01:05:28,320
You can buy
a whole Ralph Lauren room.
959
01:05:28,400 --> 01:05:30,520
Every single thing. The hardware.
960
01:05:30,600 --> 01:05:33,360
I've bought some of his hardware.
It's just fabulous.
961
01:05:33,800 --> 01:05:37,640
You can just sort of live
this Ralph Lauren life.
962
01:05:37,720 --> 01:05:41,120
And it's now become the standard
in the industry.
963
01:05:41,280 --> 01:05:45,400
I don't know any brand that aspires
to just be a clothing brand,
964
01:05:45,520 --> 01:05:47,640
everybody aspires
to be a lifestyle brand.
965
01:05:47,720 --> 01:05:50,960
I think Ralph Lauren legitimately
offers up a lifestyle.
966
01:05:51,040 --> 01:05:55,160
I think a lot of other brands
basically just offer up a lot of stuff.
967
01:05:55,240 --> 01:05:59,200
And this window right here is not
gonna go up to the ceiling.
968
01:05:59,280 --> 01:06:05,160
Everything that I have done has been
from my vision of what I would like.
969
01:06:05,240 --> 01:06:07,640
What do I like for my kids,
what do I like for my wife,
970
01:06:07,720 --> 01:06:11,280
what do I like for my house.
It was no one telling me this is new.
971
01:06:11,360 --> 01:06:13,640
There was no one saying: "Do it !"
I did it.
972
01:06:14,440 --> 01:06:16,280
All of a sudden, he's like:
"I gotta do home ware,"
973
01:06:16,400 --> 01:06:18,840
"cause I've gotta put stuff in my house.
I need napkins !"
974
01:06:23,480 --> 01:06:26,560
Every place is a set.
It's my parents' movie.
975
01:06:34,360 --> 01:06:36,600
The house in Bedford, it's an estate.
976
01:06:39,800 --> 01:06:41,800
It feels like you're in England.
977
01:06:43,520 --> 01:06:47,080
And then, they found
a beautiful place in Colorado.
978
01:06:52,520 --> 01:06:54,520
A beach house in Montauk.
979
01:06:58,000 --> 01:07:00,000
An apartment in New York.
980
01:07:03,920 --> 01:07:05,920
And then, Jamaica.
981
01:07:11,360 --> 01:07:14,880
Beach, Western, English.
982
01:07:15,080 --> 01:07:19,720
They conjure up houses
and they conjure up furniture.
983
01:07:20,240 --> 01:07:24,640
I've taken cowboy boots and I've made
them into chairs on my ranch.
984
01:07:25,240 --> 01:07:28,280
These homes,
they're fuel for him.
985
01:07:28,360 --> 01:07:30,800
In these homes,
he finds inspiration.
986
01:07:31,920 --> 01:07:35,760
My dad can dream up these lifestyles
987
01:07:35,840 --> 01:07:38,200
and create an aesthetic
in his surroundings.
988
01:07:38,280 --> 01:07:40,120
It's an emotional thing.
989
01:07:40,200 --> 01:07:41,320
If I come out West
990
01:07:41,440 --> 01:07:45,200
and I have a dream about what
these cabins are gonna look like,
991
01:07:45,280 --> 01:07:48,880
well, if I'm gonna make the cabin,
I want it to have a squeaky door.
992
01:07:48,960 --> 01:07:51,280
He feels like things get better
with age,
993
01:07:51,360 --> 01:07:54,480
so he brings things from the past
into the future.
994
01:07:54,560 --> 01:07:58,080
You could open a cupboard and find
an amazing stereo system inside.
995
01:07:58,160 --> 01:08:00,200
But the old paint's still there.
996
01:08:02,680 --> 01:08:07,800
He's timeless, but he's definitely
living in the now.
997
01:08:10,040 --> 01:08:16,120
With Ralph Lauren, while the mythology
does indeed kind of meld
998
01:08:16,200 --> 01:08:19,840
into the reality, it's because
the mythology comes from the reality.
999
01:08:24,200 --> 01:08:29,120
Most of us will never be on
a thousand acre Colorado ranch,
1000
01:08:29,200 --> 01:08:33,400
but you can experience all of it
through Ralph Lauren.
1001
01:08:48,960 --> 01:08:51,320
Just looking at his life and his work,
1002
01:08:52,480 --> 01:08:54,290
they're one.
1003
01:08:54,440 --> 01:08:57,640
It's completely autobiographical.
1004
01:08:57,960 --> 01:09:03,560
He's completely sharing his interests
and his life and it's positive.
1005
01:09:05,360 --> 01:09:08,920
Does art imitate life ?
1006
01:09:09,000 --> 01:09:11,400
Or does life imitate art ?
1007
01:09:11,480 --> 01:09:14,160
With Ralph, there's no separation.
1008
01:09:16,800 --> 01:09:18,800
I'm that guy in the movie,
1009
01:09:19,320 --> 01:09:21,480
and my wife is the girl in the movie.
1010
01:09:22,400 --> 01:09:25,840
It starts out with a fantasy,
a dream and it ends up
1011
01:09:26,880 --> 01:09:28,880
as part of your life.
1012
01:09:32,160 --> 01:09:33,210
When you're out West,
1013
01:09:33,360 --> 01:09:37,520
you think about the trees and the
colors, the architecture and the plains.
1014
01:09:37,600 --> 01:09:39,600
They're inspiring to me.
1015
01:09:40,640 --> 01:09:41,800
When he's in Colorado,
1016
01:09:41,920 --> 01:09:45,640
and he's coming down from
a long year of hard work,
1017
01:09:46,320 --> 01:09:50,280
he gets out there and he just sits
down and looks at the mountains.
1018
01:09:52,360 --> 01:09:54,480
He has a quietness about him,
1019
01:09:54,560 --> 01:09:58,520
but it's almost because he's absorbing
everything and he's listening a lot.
1020
01:09:59,160 --> 01:10:02,720
You know my dad's like a real down
to earth family guy.
1021
01:10:04,320 --> 01:10:06,440
Alright, so here's the question.
1022
01:10:06,840 --> 01:10:09,720
And when we're together,
we're watching movies,
1023
01:10:09,800 --> 01:10:11,880
we're hanging out having
hamburgers and hot dogs.
1024
01:10:12,280 --> 01:10:13,730
This is fun.
1025
01:10:13,880 --> 01:10:18,920
We have a very tight-knit family
that stayed together
1026
01:10:19,480 --> 01:10:21,480
and played together.
1027
01:10:22,840 --> 01:10:25,120
My dad is loose and easy.
1028
01:10:25,640 --> 01:10:27,410
And he's funny.
1029
01:10:27,560 --> 01:10:29,840
He puts on a pair of sunglasses,
1030
01:10:29,920 --> 01:10:33,760
he gets in a car
and a character starts to emerge.
1031
01:10:49,400 --> 01:10:52,000
He'll be dressed according
to the car
1032
01:10:52,080 --> 01:10:54,800
and the color and the look
and the lifestyle.
1033
01:11:02,360 --> 01:11:05,040
We'd go for a long drive and then
we'd come home
1034
01:11:05,120 --> 01:11:06,920
and he would squeeze
the orange juice.
1035
01:11:07,040 --> 01:11:10,960
My mom would make the pancakes,
and then we'd put on Sinatra.
1036
01:11:11,040 --> 01:11:13,040
He'd start singing with a wooden spoon.
1037
01:11:16,000 --> 01:11:19,720
You know, for a few seconds, you think
"Old Blue Eyes" is in the room.
1038
01:11:21,880 --> 01:11:25,320
Whenever he puts on his white tuxedo
and dinner jacket,
1039
01:11:25,400 --> 01:11:27,800
he is Frank Sinatra, he's Cary Grant.
1040
01:11:27,880 --> 01:11:31,560
He gets out there
and he has these moves.
1041
01:11:31,840 --> 01:11:35,520
When we dance, he's spinning me
around like we're Fred and Ginger.
1042
01:11:37,440 --> 01:11:41,080
He really knows how to work it
and become the personality.
1043
01:11:43,160 --> 01:11:46,520
My name is Bond. James Bond !
1044
01:11:52,520 --> 01:11:57,000
He is very playful when
he's in a crowd that he is close to.
1045
01:12:25,400 --> 01:12:28,720
Ralph always, I think, identified
with Steve McQueen.
1046
01:12:29,280 --> 01:12:32,000
That was "The Wild Bunch"
part of Ralph.
1047
01:12:32,520 --> 01:12:36,120
But I think his real kind of soul hero
was always Cary Grant.
1048
01:12:36,200 --> 01:12:39,560
Ralph Lauren always wanted
to be Paul Newman.
1049
01:12:39,640 --> 01:12:42,000
And always wanted to be a cowboy.
1050
01:12:42,080 --> 01:12:43,840
He looks good as a cowboy.
1051
01:12:43,920 --> 01:12:47,800
I like for him.
I would be ridiculous, he's not.
1052
01:12:51,560 --> 01:12:53,680
Ralph gets to play Ralph Lauren.
1053
01:12:55,600 --> 01:12:58,320
And Ralph is exactly
what he wants to play.
1054
01:12:58,440 --> 01:13:00,160
He's good looking. He's a hero.
1055
01:13:00,280 --> 01:13:02,960
He can wear any of that stuff.
1056
01:13:03,200 --> 01:13:06,680
The evening clothes,
or the cowboy clothes
1057
01:13:07,200 --> 01:13:08,320
and he looks great.
1058
01:13:08,440 --> 01:13:11,800
He's a handsome man.
He photographs very well.
1059
01:13:12,200 --> 01:13:14,600
He's it. He's Ralph Lauren.
1060
01:13:14,680 --> 01:13:17,000
And he's the face of the brand.
1061
01:13:17,400 --> 01:13:20,320
Looking back at those pictures,
you know, you can see
1062
01:13:20,680 --> 01:13:22,680
the origins of this brand.
1063
01:13:23,760 --> 01:13:27,160
In some ways, the brand is iconic
for those great images
1064
01:13:27,240 --> 01:13:29,680
that are ingrained in people's heads.
1065
01:13:31,440 --> 01:13:33,520
He has a very strong DNA,
1066
01:13:33,800 --> 01:13:37,120
and this is like the gift,
the absolute gift for a brand.
1067
01:13:37,200 --> 01:13:39,170
Definitely.
1068
01:13:39,320 --> 01:13:42,000
The public figure who's in his own ads,
1069
01:13:42,080 --> 01:13:44,120
who lives his own lifestyle,
1070
01:13:44,200 --> 01:13:46,200
is also a very shy person.
1071
01:13:47,040 --> 01:13:50,720
And so it's important to make
a distinction between the mythology
1072
01:13:50,800 --> 01:13:54,440
that he has spent his entire life
creating for others
1073
01:13:54,560 --> 01:13:57,280
because he wished
to have that for himself
1074
01:13:57,360 --> 01:13:58,680
and the real person.
1075
01:13:58,760 --> 01:14:03,320
But there's not that much daylight
between them.
1076
01:14:08,920 --> 01:14:12,200
Designers, when we were all coming up,
1077
01:14:12,280 --> 01:14:15,320
just thought about collections, fashion.
1078
01:14:16,520 --> 01:14:21,200
Ralph was thinking about his brand.
No one else thought about that.
1079
01:14:21,920 --> 01:14:25,480
He just separated himself
and his company
1080
01:14:25,560 --> 01:14:30,640
from the fashion business, because
he was creating his own world.
1081
01:14:30,720 --> 01:14:34,640
I think the thing that had to be
so frustrating for him was to create
1082
01:14:34,720 --> 01:14:38,560
the lifestyle fantasy and then
walk into a department store
1083
01:14:38,640 --> 01:14:43,000
and see that it was in this terrible,
awfully lit environment,
1084
01:14:43,440 --> 01:14:46,120
styled on a mannequin
in the wrong way
1085
01:14:46,200 --> 01:14:47,480
and poof !
1086
01:14:47,560 --> 01:14:50,200
There went the dream and the fantasy
that he was trying to bring
1087
01:14:50,320 --> 01:14:51,520
into people's' lives.
1088
01:14:51,640 --> 01:14:55,240
I felt that there was a need to create
and do what I believed
1089
01:14:55,360 --> 01:14:59,440
was Ralph Lauren and Polo
in a much larger scale.
1090
01:15:00,520 --> 01:15:05,680
And I saw this building on 72nd street
that had this mansion-like feeling
1091
01:15:06,040 --> 01:15:08,040
and I said: "This is what I want."
1092
01:15:23,000 --> 01:15:26,600
The Mansion
was like a big Hollywood set.
1093
01:15:27,360 --> 01:15:31,160
He could create the world exactly
the way he wanted to.
1094
01:15:31,240 --> 01:15:32,810
So when people walked in,
1095
01:15:32,960 --> 01:15:36,000
it wasn't about buying,
it was about an experience.
1096
01:15:37,200 --> 01:15:42,600
Opening day he took us through
the store, with a grand staircase,
1097
01:15:42,720 --> 01:15:44,410
oriental carpet,
1098
01:15:44,560 --> 01:15:48,400
a huge portrait of an English gentleman
right on the landing.
1099
01:15:48,680 --> 01:15:52,320
He pointed to it and said:
"That's Grandpa Lifshitz."
1100
01:15:53,520 --> 01:15:57,360
I thought the store was terrific,
and I said: "How is it doing ?"
1101
01:15:57,440 --> 01:15:59,840
He said "I think it's doing fine".
1102
01:16:01,680 --> 01:16:06,160
He was the first designer
to open up retail stores.
1103
01:16:06,760 --> 01:16:10,840
He met with a lot of resistance
from department stores
1104
01:16:10,920 --> 01:16:14,520
because those people thought
he would be in competition.
1105
01:16:15,760 --> 01:16:19,600
He knew, and he told them
your business will grow
1106
01:16:19,680 --> 01:16:21,880
because of my freestanding stores.
1107
01:16:22,240 --> 01:16:24,040
And it was absolutely right.
1108
01:16:24,120 --> 01:16:29,320
Rhinelander changed the structure
of fashion to a tremendous degree.
1109
01:16:29,600 --> 01:16:32,800
Because up until Ralph Lauren opened
that Rhinelander store,
1110
01:16:32,880 --> 01:16:35,360
designer vertical retail
was not a thing.
1111
01:16:35,760 --> 01:16:39,680
And Ralph Lauren had the audacity,
and it was audacious,
1112
01:16:39,760 --> 01:16:43,000
to open this amazing store
on Madison Avenue
1113
01:16:43,080 --> 01:16:45,920
a few blocks from Bloomingdale's.
That was shocking.
1114
01:16:46,000 --> 01:16:48,040
So a lot of people would say,
in the press they said:
1115
01:16:48,120 --> 01:16:50,560
"Is Bloomingdale's gonna drop
Ralph Lauren ?"
1116
01:16:50,640 --> 01:16:52,400
Well, Bloomingdale's didn't drop
Ralph Lauren,
1117
01:16:52,480 --> 01:16:54,480
they increased their order,
they doubled it.
1118
01:16:56,440 --> 01:16:57,970
I don't think you can overstate
1119
01:16:58,120 --> 01:17:02,680
the impact that he had on the way
that designers retail their brand.
1120
01:17:03,720 --> 01:17:06,880
It's sort of performance art
in which you can participate.
1121
01:17:07,960 --> 01:17:11,440
It's a stage set,
in which everything is for sale.
1122
01:17:12,400 --> 01:17:15,680
The store not only had the clothes,
but saddles,
1123
01:17:16,640 --> 01:17:20,440
riding crops. I don't know what to do
with a riding crop or a saddle.
1124
01:17:20,520 --> 01:17:23,960
I want a pair of socks.
But it made me feel good.
1125
01:17:24,040 --> 01:17:28,800
This is my store. My kind of people
come here. Equestrians, right ?
1126
01:17:29,880 --> 01:17:32,360
I might like to look like that,
I might want to have that tweed,
1127
01:17:32,440 --> 01:17:35,160
I might want to have that riding boot.
I might want to have that horse.
1128
01:17:35,240 --> 01:17:37,920
I don't have a stable, but I'll go get
the bit, the riding boots,
1129
01:17:38,040 --> 01:17:40,040
and I'll look really snappy.
It's jaunty.
1130
01:17:41,440 --> 01:17:45,800
You always have something
in a Ralph Lauren look that pivots
1131
01:17:45,920 --> 01:17:49,680
what you feel about yourself,
which can give you confidence.
1132
01:17:51,200 --> 01:17:53,360
Even a Polo shirt is aspirational.
1133
01:17:53,440 --> 01:17:57,320
Rainbow colors. Who would not want
to aspire to that dream ?
1134
01:17:58,840 --> 01:18:01,360
I moved to America
wanting the Polo shirt.
1135
01:18:01,600 --> 01:18:05,040
And that, as an immigrant, for me
was what America was.
1136
01:18:06,000 --> 01:18:11,400
By buying a shirt, you can all
of a sudden be part of that club.
1137
01:18:13,680 --> 01:18:16,400
I needed a way to set myself apart.
1138
01:18:16,480 --> 01:18:19,160
What would be my magician's cloak ?
1139
01:18:19,640 --> 01:18:21,920
And it was the Polo shirt.
1140
01:18:23,000 --> 01:18:27,400
It said that I could travel
from the South Side of Chicago
1141
01:18:27,520 --> 01:18:29,680
to the beaches of Montauk.
1142
01:18:31,080 --> 01:18:34,960
The longing that he taps into
is about belonging.
1143
01:18:35,200 --> 01:18:38,240
It's about feeling that you have
1144
01:18:38,320 --> 01:18:43,560
not just attained some kind of personal
success, but social success,
1145
01:18:43,640 --> 01:18:45,610
cultural success.
1146
01:18:45,760 --> 01:18:51,840
And so that it isn't just him speaking
to the people who already have it.
1147
01:18:51,920 --> 01:18:54,960
It's speaking to people
who want to have it.
1148
01:18:55,040 --> 01:18:56,360
And that's his story too.
1149
01:18:56,440 --> 01:19:01,040
People know his story. They know that
this is not a guy who was born wealthy.
1150
01:19:01,120 --> 01:19:02,720
He's self-made.
1151
01:19:02,800 --> 01:19:08,440
But, because his narrative has been
so rooted in this very WASPy look,
1152
01:19:08,640 --> 01:19:11,640
there's been the sense that everyone
in that world
1153
01:19:11,720 --> 01:19:13,720
has also looked very WASPy.
1154
01:19:13,800 --> 01:19:16,400
And that hasn't really been the case.
1155
01:19:16,560 --> 01:19:18,520
Wool hat with the horsey.
1156
01:19:18,600 --> 01:19:21,440
This is actually
the retro reissue stuff.
1157
01:19:21,520 --> 01:19:23,520
It's a little cold outside.
1158
01:19:23,800 --> 01:19:25,640
Always Lo socks.
1159
01:19:25,720 --> 01:19:28,640
You're not going to catch me
without my Polo drawers on.
1160
01:19:28,720 --> 01:19:34,480
These guys brought this really rich,
interesting context to the brand
1161
01:19:34,560 --> 01:19:35,560
that wasn't there.
1162
01:19:35,640 --> 01:19:38,880
We took their style
and we made it our own.
1163
01:19:38,960 --> 01:19:43,040
The Lo Lifes were formed
in 1988 in Brooklyn.
1164
01:19:43,920 --> 01:19:45,440
Not too many people say Polo.
1165
01:19:45,520 --> 01:19:47,720
It's always referred to as 'Lo.
1166
01:19:47,960 --> 01:19:51,880
We were always into hip hop culture
and the fashion of graffiti,
1167
01:19:52,000 --> 01:19:54,320
break dancing, DJing.
1168
01:19:54,400 --> 01:19:58,040
And Polo became an obsession for us.
1169
01:19:58,960 --> 01:20:02,360
They look like mannequins
from the store,
1170
01:20:02,480 --> 01:20:03,720
how much stuff they had on.
1171
01:20:03,800 --> 01:20:06,800
And I knew how much this stuff cost.
These guys were wearing
1172
01:20:06,880 --> 01:20:10,080
400 dollar jackets
with 300 dollar boots.
1173
01:20:10,680 --> 01:20:13,800
Like everybody else, we wanted
the finer things in life.
1174
01:20:13,880 --> 01:20:18,080
But a lot of people felt the clothes
weren't made for us in the ghetto.
1175
01:20:18,640 --> 01:20:20,640
We were poor. You know ?
1176
01:20:20,720 --> 01:20:23,440
And I didn't have no other way
of really getting the clothes.
1177
01:20:23,720 --> 01:20:25,720
So I'm gonna take it.
1178
01:20:31,840 --> 01:20:34,960
You go on boosting missions
with a couple of guys
1179
01:20:35,040 --> 01:20:38,080
who can walk in the store
and come out with anything.
1180
01:20:38,160 --> 01:20:41,680
Down the leg, down the back,
in the shirt, in the sleeve.
1181
01:20:42,200 --> 01:20:45,240
When we would come back to our
neighborhoods wearing these clothes,
1182
01:20:45,360 --> 01:20:48,560
you look like somebody,
you felt like somebody.
1183
01:20:48,800 --> 01:20:52,520
It was a way of saying that you made it,
you were successful.
1184
01:20:52,600 --> 01:20:55,560
Because it was so regal,
it was so royal,
1185
01:20:56,400 --> 01:20:59,280
it was the top of the top.
1186
01:21:02,760 --> 01:21:05,760
When rap and hip hop embraced
Ralph Lauren,
1187
01:21:05,840 --> 01:21:09,240
they were essentially saying that
we're going to take this symbol
1188
01:21:09,320 --> 01:21:11,560
of what it means
to be a success in America,
1189
01:21:11,640 --> 01:21:13,800
we're going to turn it on its head
1190
01:21:13,880 --> 01:21:17,080
and we're going sort of wear it
on our own terms.
1191
01:21:18,240 --> 01:21:23,280
Ralph Lifshitz came from the Bronx.
He pursued the American dream.
1192
01:21:23,600 --> 01:21:25,490
It's what we did.
1193
01:21:25,640 --> 01:21:29,920
This was our way of seeing America
further than the last stop on the train.
1194
01:21:35,120 --> 01:21:37,560
I like this. I still like this.
1195
01:21:37,960 --> 01:21:41,480
Beyond the glamour of fashion,
there is the reality
1196
01:21:42,040 --> 01:21:44,520
of making a product,
selling it to the stores,
1197
01:21:44,600 --> 01:21:46,240
getting it delivered on time.
1198
01:21:46,320 --> 01:21:49,640
And then next year.
What are you gonna do next season ?
1199
01:21:51,200 --> 01:21:54,720
Doing one collection is painful.
1200
01:21:56,000 --> 01:21:58,200
It's painful. It's not easy.
1201
01:21:58,280 --> 01:21:59,840
And my days are distracted.
1202
01:21:59,920 --> 01:22:03,120
I'm not just sitting there
designing a dress.
1203
01:22:03,440 --> 01:22:07,440
I'm running from an ad meeting
to a board meeting
1204
01:22:07,520 --> 01:22:09,520
to another meeting.
1205
01:22:11,480 --> 01:22:14,920
When you're in this industry,
you do have to keep pushing forward.
1206
01:22:15,000 --> 01:22:17,800
You gotta get out there and you've
got to be better every season.
1207
01:22:17,880 --> 01:22:20,160
And he wants to get better with age.
1208
01:22:20,240 --> 01:22:22,240
So he works harder.
1209
01:22:23,600 --> 01:22:27,600
Building this company, I believe
that one person can't do it all.
1210
01:22:28,040 --> 01:22:30,040
From the financial end of it,
1211
01:22:30,360 --> 01:22:33,720
to the artistic end of it,
it's the team.
1212
01:22:33,840 --> 01:22:37,200
One person can't be the great artist
and the great financial genius
1213
01:22:37,320 --> 01:22:41,440
and the Wall Street genius.
I might be the only guy, probably.
1214
01:22:44,800 --> 01:22:48,280
What's in a brand name ?
For Ralph Lauren's Polo brand,
1215
01:22:48,360 --> 01:22:51,760
about 767 million dollars.
1216
01:22:51,840 --> 01:22:55,200
That's how much was raised
in yesterday's initial public offering
1217
01:22:55,280 --> 01:22:58,400
of stock
in Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation.
1218
01:22:58,760 --> 01:23:01,120
Going public just made him
more famous.
1219
01:23:01,200 --> 01:23:05,240
Ring that bell on the New York Stock
Exchange. It's a very exciting day.
1220
01:23:05,320 --> 01:23:09,040
And then your stock is traded and then
you have to deal with your shareholders
1221
01:23:09,120 --> 01:23:10,890
year after year after year.
1222
01:23:11,040 --> 01:23:15,360
And you're under a tremendous amount
more scrutiny than you were before.
1223
01:23:16,360 --> 01:23:20,200
He had a great concern that something
would go out of the business
1224
01:23:20,280 --> 01:23:21,650
when it became public.
1225
01:23:21,800 --> 01:23:25,600
And even though he clearly knew
he could make a lot of money,
1226
01:23:25,680 --> 01:23:29,760
the decision weighed on his mind
whether it was a good or bad decision.
1227
01:23:30,720 --> 01:23:33,640
Going public is very complicated
for any fashion company.
1228
01:23:33,960 --> 01:23:38,160
It places a undue burden on
a creative business,
1229
01:23:38,240 --> 01:23:41,200
which is always gonna show kind
of ebbs and flows
1230
01:23:41,320 --> 01:23:44,640
in terms of how people respond
to new products.
1231
01:23:44,720 --> 01:23:46,570
So that's, like, the star.
1232
01:23:46,720 --> 01:23:50,920
You may not totally be free
to express what you want.
1233
01:23:51,000 --> 01:23:52,000
This is what I want.
1234
01:23:52,080 --> 01:23:55,080
And yet, shareholders invest
in your business
1235
01:23:55,160 --> 01:23:57,960
because they believe in you
and they want to see growth.
1236
01:23:58,880 --> 01:24:02,440
I don't know all of you,
but I would like to know you.
1237
01:24:02,520 --> 01:24:06,440
But as you get bigger,
it's harder to control the sales,
1238
01:24:06,680 --> 01:24:08,680
it's hard to control the design,
1239
01:24:08,920 --> 01:24:12,080
and it's harder and harder
to control the company.
1240
01:24:12,680 --> 01:24:16,320
And you have to choose some
sophisticated people financially
1241
01:24:16,520 --> 01:24:18,520
to help you grow.
1242
01:24:19,440 --> 01:24:21,440
Sometimes it works
1243
01:24:23,200 --> 01:24:25,200
and sometimes it doesn't.
1244
01:24:26,560 --> 01:24:30,320
A lot of people have come and gone
quite quickly over there,
1245
01:24:30,440 --> 01:24:34,720
because they have tried
to introduce a new way of thinking.
1246
01:24:34,800 --> 01:24:38,960
And that's not possible for Ralph.
1247
01:24:39,640 --> 01:24:42,560
Ralph believes in what he has created,
1248
01:24:42,640 --> 01:24:46,240
he believes in the Ralph Lauren way
of doing business
1249
01:24:46,640 --> 01:24:51,360
And it's worked and he's not
getting off that train.
1250
01:24:52,080 --> 01:24:55,680
I decided to go public because
I wanted to have a bigger business.
1251
01:24:56,800 --> 01:24:58,730
The whole world was there
1252
01:24:58,880 --> 01:25:01,840
and I felt like I had something to say
that was international.
1253
01:25:10,000 --> 01:25:13,800
The first store that he opened in Paris
was the talk of the town.
1254
01:25:14,240 --> 01:25:16,360
And now there's
a Ralph Lauren store everywhere.
1255
01:25:18,400 --> 01:25:21,760
In Milan, in London.
There's stores everywhere.
1256
01:25:23,320 --> 01:25:27,960
He has created this idea
of American style,
1257
01:25:28,040 --> 01:25:30,680
and what that means
around the world.
1258
01:25:30,880 --> 01:25:34,720
I really love the fact
that he celebrates his country.
1259
01:25:34,800 --> 01:25:39,000
It's very relative
to what his vision of America is
1260
01:25:39,360 --> 01:25:42,720
and it's very exotic for us, maybe,
the French people.
1261
01:25:44,080 --> 01:25:48,000
The fact that Ralph Lauren's
international name is as important
1262
01:25:48,080 --> 01:25:49,760
as the French and the Italians
1263
01:25:49,840 --> 01:25:52,040
is very significant
for American fashion.
1264
01:25:52,480 --> 01:25:56,360
When you ask young designers
which designers they most admire
1265
01:25:56,440 --> 01:25:58,440
and who they might like to meet,
1266
01:25:58,640 --> 01:26:00,800
there's two names
that come back again and again,
1267
01:26:00,880 --> 01:26:03,400
it doesn't matter what corner
of the globe that you're in.
1268
01:26:03,480 --> 01:26:06,000
It's Karl Lagerfeld
and it's Ralph Lauren.
1269
01:26:06,680 --> 01:26:11,320
For me, he is the American designer
who represents America
1270
01:26:11,400 --> 01:26:13,960
and American fashion best
for the rest of the world.
1271
01:26:15,960 --> 01:26:17,960
When he went to Japan,
1272
01:26:19,040 --> 01:26:21,160
crowds were assembling
to take his picture.
1273
01:26:21,240 --> 01:26:24,200
He's seen as an ambassador
of American culture
1274
01:26:24,280 --> 01:26:27,040
and he reminds people
of what's great about our country.
1275
01:26:27,120 --> 01:26:30,880
That's their slice of America.
Having that t-shirt
1276
01:26:31,480 --> 01:26:34,720
is their ownership of United States.
1277
01:26:35,400 --> 01:26:38,920
I think if we have anything close
to a national designer,
1278
01:26:39,000 --> 01:26:41,000
it's Ralph Lauren.
1279
01:26:43,240 --> 01:26:47,880
When the Star-Spangled Banner was
tattering to shreds,
1280
01:26:48,440 --> 01:26:51,960
I reached out to Ralph
and next thing I knew
1281
01:26:52,040 --> 01:26:56,840
he was pledging 13 million dollars
to repair our Star-Spangled Banner.
1282
01:26:59,680 --> 01:27:02,720
It was literally the flag
that was flying
1283
01:27:02,800 --> 01:27:05,920
when our national anthem was written.
1284
01:27:06,520 --> 01:27:09,320
And it's because he got it.
He understands icons,
1285
01:27:09,440 --> 01:27:11,440
because he is one.
1286
01:27:11,840 --> 01:27:14,800
You couldn't grow up in America
in the 80's onwards
1287
01:27:14,880 --> 01:27:16,810
and not know the name
of Ralph Lauren.
1288
01:27:16,960 --> 01:27:22,360
He is the classic American mythological
entrepreneurial success story
1289
01:27:22,440 --> 01:27:24,210
in any industry.
1290
01:27:24,360 --> 01:27:28,600
The official uniform of the U.S.
Olympic team has been unveiled.
1291
01:27:29,000 --> 01:27:32,880
Ralph Lauren will throw out
tonight's ceremonial first pitch.
1292
01:27:32,960 --> 01:27:37,400
Being able to pitch at Yankee stadium
was unbelievable.
1293
01:27:41,000 --> 01:27:43,000
Thank you, Ralph
1294
01:27:45,800 --> 01:27:48,760
It is a key to our city.
1295
01:27:48,840 --> 01:27:51,800
Ralph Lauren will become the first
American designer to be knighted
1296
01:27:51,920 --> 01:27:53,280
by the Queen.
1297
01:27:53,360 --> 01:27:56,520
I think Ralph has won
every design award out there.
1298
01:27:57,320 --> 01:27:59,160
Thank you very, very much.
1299
01:27:59,240 --> 01:28:04,720
The lifetime achievement award that
Audrey Hepburn gave to Ralph
1300
01:28:04,800 --> 01:28:06,800
that was the high.
1301
01:28:07,200 --> 01:28:09,640
The high of the highs.
1302
01:28:09,840 --> 01:28:15,200
Tonight, we salute Ralph Lauren for his
contributions to American style,
1303
01:28:15,280 --> 01:28:17,130
design, and culture.
1304
01:28:17,280 --> 01:28:22,240
And to the way he has added
beauty, comfort
1305
01:28:23,240 --> 01:28:26,080
and dreams to our lives.
1306
01:28:32,720 --> 01:28:34,720
I think this looks very good.
1307
01:28:35,520 --> 01:28:37,520
Ralph knows what he's achieved,
1308
01:28:37,880 --> 01:28:41,080
but he still comes
from that place of hunger.
1309
01:28:41,400 --> 01:28:46,920
He still wants to create and excel.
He doesn't look at the past success
1310
01:28:47,000 --> 01:28:49,000
and say: "Okay, I'm done."
1311
01:28:49,200 --> 01:28:51,800
He's never satisfied, he's restless.
1312
01:28:52,080 --> 01:28:54,960
And there's always the next season.
1313
01:28:55,040 --> 01:28:56,960
There's always the next collection.
1314
01:28:57,040 --> 01:28:59,560
There is nothing to be rested on.
1315
01:28:59,640 --> 01:29:02,880
And the awards and the accolades
are not as important
1316
01:29:02,960 --> 01:29:05,000
as the thing you're working on now.
1317
01:29:05,720 --> 01:29:08,640
I don't like the belt.
I really don't like.
1318
01:29:09,400 --> 01:29:12,880
- You don't like the belt ?
- I don't like these sneakers as much.
1319
01:29:13,480 --> 01:29:16,800
Something is not sharp enough.
I don't know what it is.
1320
01:29:17,000 --> 01:29:21,920
He has been able to stay very,
very true to his aesthetic,
1321
01:29:22,000 --> 01:29:25,320
while progressing that aesthetic,
one of the hardest things to do,
1322
01:29:25,400 --> 01:29:27,560
if not the hardest thing to do
in fashion.
1323
01:29:28,640 --> 01:29:31,200
He remains within his own framework,
1324
01:29:31,480 --> 01:29:34,920
but Ralph is still in there,
pushing himself.
1325
01:29:35,640 --> 01:29:39,320
Always questioning, he's always
looking, he's always thinking.
1326
01:29:39,400 --> 01:29:41,600
And I think that he's been
concerned sometimes
1327
01:29:41,720 --> 01:29:44,440
that he's not been hot enough.
1328
01:29:44,520 --> 01:29:49,000
But he says very clearly:
"I don't want to be too hot,"
1329
01:29:49,080 --> 01:29:51,120
"and I don't want to be too cold."
1330
01:29:51,200 --> 01:29:53,840
"I just want to exist.
I want to be like Nike"
1331
01:29:53,920 --> 01:29:57,880
"or I want to be like Coca-Cola".
And I think he's achieved that.
1332
01:30:02,040 --> 01:30:04,760
Ralph Lauren has become
so established in the culture
1333
01:30:04,840 --> 01:30:07,240
that it could be the object of irony.
1334
01:30:09,000 --> 01:30:13,720
But that doesn't mean it was
created with ironic intent by him.
1335
01:30:14,840 --> 01:30:18,040
Ralph Lauren does not have
an ironic bone in his body.
1336
01:30:19,320 --> 01:30:21,720
He really believes all this stuff.
1337
01:30:21,800 --> 01:30:26,080
He really believes how beautiful
the world can be
1338
01:30:26,160 --> 01:30:28,160
if we would only let it be so.
1339
01:30:29,680 --> 01:30:32,200
The thing about Ralph Lauren's world
1340
01:30:32,280 --> 01:30:36,560
is that it's so benignly aspirational.
1341
01:30:36,960 --> 01:30:41,320
He's really built his entire empire
on this idea,
1342
01:30:41,400 --> 01:30:44,640
anyone can enter the fantasy,
American dream.
1343
01:30:51,960 --> 01:30:54,680
And I don't think the American dream
ever goes away.
1344
01:31:06,560 --> 01:31:09,680
But I do think that it evolves
and it shifts
1345
01:31:09,760 --> 01:31:13,080
and our understanding of it changes
over time.
1346
01:31:13,160 --> 01:31:18,560
I don't know that his understanding
of it is changing.
1347
01:31:18,720 --> 01:31:22,240
And I think it's a problem for a brand
1348
01:31:22,320 --> 01:31:26,640
that I think is so much more
than just any old fashion brand.
1349
01:31:29,200 --> 01:31:33,360
His real adherence
to these narratives of America
1350
01:31:33,440 --> 01:31:36,480
that are core to his brand
1351
01:31:36,960 --> 01:31:38,960
can get a little stale,
1352
01:31:39,040 --> 01:31:42,720
particularly at a time when I think
a lot of people who have not felt
1353
01:31:42,800 --> 01:31:46,600
included in a lot of these narratives
are suddenly finding a voice
1354
01:31:46,680 --> 01:31:50,800
and demanding that you kind of rewrite
how we have thought about
1355
01:31:50,880 --> 01:31:56,160
all these stories and you know,
this is not a brand that rewrites.
1356
01:32:00,720 --> 01:32:02,880
The question is
how do you move forward ?
1357
01:32:05,480 --> 01:32:07,480
How do you develop newness ?
1358
01:32:07,680 --> 01:32:10,600
And how do you stay Ralph Lauren
and not lose your identity ?
1359
01:32:13,520 --> 01:32:15,520
But I stayed true to myself.
1360
01:32:16,200 --> 01:32:18,840
And some of the criticism
was very painful.
1361
01:32:19,360 --> 01:32:23,480
It's like: "My God, maybe I'm not good.
Maybe I think I'm good but I'm not."
1362
01:32:27,040 --> 01:32:30,640
I've gone by my gut.
Not everything is genius.
1363
01:32:32,120 --> 01:32:34,840
And yes, I would love
everyone to love it.
1364
01:32:34,920 --> 01:32:37,760
But I'm a big boy,
and I've lived through critics
1365
01:32:38,400 --> 01:32:40,400
from day one.
1366
01:32:41,280 --> 01:32:45,480
And I think that if I listened
to the critics, I would've quit.
1367
01:32:45,560 --> 01:32:47,560
Let's put that on again.
1368
01:32:48,440 --> 01:32:50,440
This is my 50th year.
1369
01:32:51,600 --> 01:32:57,480
So think of this, 50 years
back-and-forth on the runway saying:
1370
01:32:57,560 --> 01:32:59,920
"Oh my God, what am I going
to do next year ?"
1371
01:33:00,800 --> 01:33:03,720
We're searching for what's been done
and what's not been done.
1372
01:33:03,800 --> 01:33:05,280
These are the pictures.
1373
01:33:05,360 --> 01:33:08,960
You're rolling the dice again,
and again, and again.
1374
01:33:09,040 --> 01:33:12,480
This collection is just a culmination
of everything
1375
01:33:12,760 --> 01:33:15,120
that you've always believed in.
1376
01:33:15,200 --> 01:33:18,440
This is not about every year.
This is just now,
1377
01:33:18,600 --> 01:33:22,000
and I wanted this collection to be
like it was my last.
1378
01:33:29,400 --> 01:33:34,160
People say: "Ralph, you don't worry
about your shows anymore."
1379
01:33:34,360 --> 01:33:37,640
Are you kidding ? I'm more nervous
today than I've ever been.
1380
01:33:38,720 --> 01:33:44,520
50TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION
CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK, 2018
1381
01:34:31,040 --> 01:34:34,240
I was completely boggled by it.
1382
01:34:34,600 --> 01:34:37,240
My eyes were falling out of my head
because everywhere I turned,
1383
01:34:37,360 --> 01:34:39,360
there was some
extraordinary person.
1384
01:34:42,240 --> 01:34:44,920
Anne Hathaway, Oprah Winfrey,
1385
01:34:45,280 --> 01:34:47,920
Robert De Niro, Steven Spielberg.
1386
01:34:48,400 --> 01:34:51,040
Every American designer, practically.
1387
01:34:51,800 --> 01:34:55,600
And everyone was there just to be
happy for Ralph and be proud of Ralph.
1388
01:34:55,960 --> 01:34:58,120
I thought it was wonderful.
1389
01:35:09,040 --> 01:35:11,240
You're never sure
that you got it right.
1390
01:35:11,680 --> 01:35:14,240
You think you got it right,
you feel it in your gut.
1391
01:35:17,360 --> 01:35:19,640
But I'm nervous
up until the last moment.
1392
01:35:54,400 --> 01:35:57,600
Ralph Lauren's place
in fashion history is secure.
1393
01:35:59,040 --> 01:36:03,080
He represents something that is more
than just a bunch of clothes.
1394
01:36:09,840 --> 01:36:12,760
It was a very big tent
embrace of everybody.
1395
01:36:12,840 --> 01:36:15,440
You know, colors, ages, sizes.
1396
01:36:15,680 --> 01:36:17,680
Everyone can be a part of my world.
1397
01:36:22,840 --> 01:36:26,320
He took fantasies of what America
should be
1398
01:36:26,800 --> 01:36:31,080
and made entire worlds out of them
over half a century.
1399
01:37:05,880 --> 01:37:09,560
I think sometimes he can't quite
believe that it's happened.
1400
01:37:12,480 --> 01:37:17,840
Sometimes he's still that little boy,
not quite believing that
1401
01:37:17,920 --> 01:37:19,920
I am Ralph Lauren.
1402
01:37:26,600 --> 01:37:31,400
That hug. That to me said,
no matter who's in that room,
1403
01:37:31,480 --> 01:37:34,160
no matter who's shiny,
who's successful,
1404
01:37:34,240 --> 01:37:36,880
you always go back to someone
who really knows who you were,
1405
01:37:36,960 --> 01:37:39,800
and who you came from,
and where you came from.
1406
01:37:42,480 --> 01:37:45,880
At the very end of the show,
he always goes to his family.
1407
01:37:47,880 --> 01:37:50,440
And I think that's so touching.
1408
01:37:50,720 --> 01:37:53,680
Because you know
where the priority lies there.
1409
01:37:54,520 --> 01:37:57,480
You have to have a full life
to be able to create.
1410
01:37:57,840 --> 01:37:59,920
You can't create from emptiness.
1411
01:38:00,000 --> 01:38:03,920
And I think Ralph has a very full,
beautiful, loving life.
1412
01:38:05,480 --> 01:38:08,800
When I saw the children playing,
and people from all over
1413
01:38:08,880 --> 01:38:11,520
and the mixes of lives and worlds,
1414
01:38:12,280 --> 01:38:13,840
I mean, I was emotional.
1415
01:38:13,920 --> 01:38:16,760
It was everything I believed in
about life.
1416
01:38:21,200 --> 01:38:23,200
50 years.
1417
01:38:37,200 --> 01:38:39,000
I'm very excited about my work.
1418
01:38:39,080 --> 01:38:42,960
I feel vital and creative
and I'm looking forward to the future.
1419
01:38:44,520 --> 01:38:47,560
I care about what I do
and I love what I do.
1420
01:38:48,240 --> 01:38:50,240
You have to keep working.
1421
01:38:52,240 --> 01:38:54,720
I'm living the life I dreamt
about living.
1422
01:38:54,800 --> 01:38:57,600
And I enjoy creating
my own world.
1423
01:39:01,680 --> 01:39:03,680
But as you get older,
1424
01:39:03,880 --> 01:39:06,680
you don't need all the things
you thought you needed.
1425
01:39:07,000 --> 01:39:09,160
You need the good things.
1426
01:39:10,320 --> 01:39:13,520
Warmth and the smell
of the country mornings.
1427
01:39:13,960 --> 01:39:17,200
And the way the fences look,
the color of the barn.
1428
01:39:17,280 --> 01:39:19,280
And life is wonderful.
1429
01:39:23,440 --> 01:39:26,720
When I built my house in Bedford,
my mother said:
1430
01:39:26,880 --> 01:39:28,880
"What do you need this for ?"
1431
01:39:29,080 --> 01:39:32,880
I said: "Mom, I want this so I can
have that little house down the hill"
1432
01:39:33,120 --> 01:39:35,120
"with a little red barn."
1433
01:39:36,560 --> 01:39:38,560
That's for my soul.
1434
01:39:46,560 --> 01:39:49,200
Sometimes you have to fulfill
your dreams
1435
01:39:49,800 --> 01:39:51,920
to know what your real dream
is about.
1436
01:39:55,320 --> 01:40:01,080
The real dream is family, children,
having peace.
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