All language subtitles for Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown S12E02 Asturias Spain (1080p x265 10bit S95 Joy)

Welcome to the enchanted,

seldom visited wonderland
of Asturias.

That's in Spain,
if you didn't know,

and, of course,
because it's Spain,

I did not come here alone.

I came here with a good
friend, great chef.

He's a complicated man.

Nobody understands him
but his woman.

And I'm not talking
about John Shaft.

"Shut your mouth."

I'm talking about José Andrés...

Yeah, another beer.
Um, wide.

Shit, Anthony's waiting!

Only chef
in the history of America

ever to be sued
by a sitting president.

I'm so proud of him.

♪ I took a walk

♪ Through this beautiful world

♪ Felt the cool rain
♪ On my shoulder

♪ Found something good

♪ In this beautiful world
♪ I felt the rain

♪ Getting colder

♪ Sha la la la la
♪ Sha la la la la la

♪ Sha la la la la
♪Sha la la la la la la

You know, sometimes
we have a hard time leaving

the comfort of the known...

And we don't understand
that life only starts...

At the edge of the unknown.

That's when life starts.

I've been an immigrant
all my life...

From Asturias to Catalonia,

from Catalonia to Madrid.

Then I landed in America.

I've lived in the States
more than 26 years of my life.

More than half of my life,
I've been there.

I think everybody should be

always finding the place
they come from.

Asturias,
I left when I was five.

A lot of people would not have
a lot of memories before five,

but I do have them.

And me, I always feel, in Spain,

like, so proud
that I am a Spaniard.

That's why for me
coming back here

is to understanding that,
yes, I'm from here,

but they have to work hard
to belong.

- Viva, Asturias!
- Viva!

Astonishing.

Unbelievable.

Well, I always wanted to do it.

Try that in New York.

So, a question:

When you were a kid,
after you left here at age 5,

how often did you visit?

It took me many, many years,

almost like 12, 14 years
to come back.

You know...

because to me,
when I left so young,

it's almost like meeting
a family you knew you had

but you never met.

Still, nothing beats
these moments.

Always there's something
happening.

What do you eat here?
What's good here?

- Everything.
- What do you eat?

Here right now is the season
of arbeyos.

Mm.

Which is the green peas.

And right now is the season.

And they love these green peas
here in season.

And they serve them with ham.

Oh! This looks amazing.

Arbeyos.

It's perfect.

- Oh...
- Croquette.

Everybody says that Asturias
has the best croquetas

anywhere in Spain...

Really? Everybody says that?

Everybody, especially
the people in Asturias.

Yeah, I would guess.

You see how creamy.

Good taste.

Ah, mussels.

Perfect.
Clams.

They make a great steak,
done with bleu cheese,

right on top.

Cabrales on top of the steak.

It's kind of the sauce happens
right on the plate.

- Mm-hmm, okay.
- It's amazing.

So, you want the whole cheese
to spoon...

Yeah.
It heavy, yeah? It heavy.

It's spicy!

Oh, no, I like spicy.

Oh, buh-buh,
buh-buh-buh-buh, no.

José?

I love all the opinions.

Everybody's highly opinionated,
as they should be.

And nobody's gonna agree
with anybody,

only because, why to agree?

Yeah, well, any place
where people argue about food

is a good place.

So, once a year, twice
a year you come?

Yeah, well,
at least once a year,

but sometimes, I only show up
for two, three hours.

- Really?
- Yeah.

I close the eyes,
I breathe in, breathe out,

and, like, I'm home.

Especially when I go
in the mountains.

I love to be around people,
because I have a lot of energy,

and I like to feed off of
the energy of the people too,

and give energy away...
Right.

But sometimes,
I need my moments of solitude.

I know you like
moments of solitude too.

They are powerful moments.

Yeah, but I'm not
walking up a mountain.

You'll see.

And I'm gonna be taking you

probably to the heart
of Asturias...

Oh, yeah?

It's where I feel the happiest.

So I gotta hike up a mountain?

Is that what you're saying?

Well, I'll make a decent you.

Okay, we need more cider.

We're going deep, deep.

Through the mountain?

Through the mountain.

It's always deep.

Could you imagine,
less than 20 years ago,

people had to walk
all the way to the top?

Wow.

Wow.

It's a hot day today.
Yeah.

I came overdressed, man.

Jesus.

Okay, are you hungry now?

Oh, God, are we there?

That's the town.

All right.

You're gonna see
what the people of the mountain

used to eat.

Beans.

Well, to quote the great
American poet Robert Frost:

"Beans, beans,
the musical fruit.

"The more you eat,
the more you toot.

"The more you toot,
the better you feel,

so eat some beans
with every meal."

That's the reason
we're coming up here.

- Yeah, it's beautiful.
- Yeah.

I expect to be accosted
by some Keebler Elves

at any moment.

We welcome you to Munchkin Land

The Munchkin Land

It moves!

Help!

You see, here in Asturias,
nothing is plentiful...

And the people of Asturias,

even in the hard times,
they know what to do...

with nothing.

I think Asturias has been a land

that with nothing
has able to do a lot,

and that shows you the character

of the people of Asturias.

So, I'll tell you...

five-hour hike up
the mountain, it's tough.

I'm enjoying this...

I'm enjoying this cold weather.

- Boom.
- I'll tell ya.

Could you imagine
when people that live here,

the only way to go down and up
and bring things

was walking three, four hours?

I could well imagine.

How long was that hike from
the funicular to here?

What, four hours?
No, it was like-

- Oh, my God, I was not sure
I was gonna make it.

Like, ten minutes, maybe 20.

You're in very good shape.
Come on.

This is nothing.

And to eat this kind of food,

we need to put some exercise
always before.

Oh, wow.

What is amazing is that,

if I ask you,
"What do you think this is,

an appetizer,
or it's a main course?"

Right.

Many people would say,
"That's a main course."

I mean, it's fatty, it's heavy.
I would definitely say that.

Well, we eat these
in Asturias as an appetizer.

The first course.

Wow. And it's fa...
... "fabado"?

- Fabada.
- "Favada."

Fabada.

It's very difficult
to define a region by a dish,

but without a doubt,

Asturias is defined
by this dish.

Fabada.

Deep, deep, soulful cooking.

You have to meet Guillermina.

Probably she's inside.

Guillermina's
a very special person.

101 years old.

Well, she is not in
the kitchen anymore,

but until not too long ago,
she was.

In this day and age,

it seems that kitchens
are manned by men.

We don't realize
who is feeding humanity

are women.

In a woman like Guillermina,
you see very much that.

She's the only one that could
be up there in that place,

at the end of the world,

feeding the few
that will arrive there,

to give them enough energy
to go back.

These beans really
are magical beans.

- 'Cause they are special.
- Yeah.

Same seeds anywhere else,

but they don't grow
the same way they grow here.

Mm-hmm.

It's something about this land

and the weather and the altitude

that makes these beans
very special.

Tastes like it did when it
was just little José up here

in his lederhosen.

- Tastes the same?
- Tastes the same.

- You happy?
- This is as good.

- I'm happy too.
- This is as good.

And it's worth it.

It's worth the walk.
Mmm.

I mean, you show all of us
that it's worth it

to go to the end of the world
for the right food...

and for the right stories.

Well, in this case, yes.

Do you know how to play
this game?

Tony, I've seen these often.

I've never played in my life.

So it has to be over the line?

Over the line, very important.

Right, okay, good.

So, it has to hit that sur...
We know that.

All right.

But it's okay
if you hit any pin?

But it can bounce?

It can bounce, yeah. Eh?

So the ball has to go spinning,

so when it touches,

the spin will take the ball...

Right, I can do that.

Probably no.

I cannot believe
this is the first time.

Yeah, sí, vamonos.

Eso... cuatro!

Muy bien!

All right. Not bad.

- Try to beat that.
- Okay.

Look it, look it...

with the hand,
a little bit of a spin.

Tres! Tres!

Three points!

Ugh.

This game is rigged.

That was a heck
of a good shot, man.

Ah, too much.

His throw.

They're taking shelter.

They are?

Asturias is really...

to a degree,
it's land of plenty, but...

To a degree, it's not.

It's not what you want
when you want it.

It is when the land wants
to give it to you.

The river, the mountains...
the sea.

You have to respect
the land first,

and maybe then...

the land wants
to give you something.

Asturias, many of the
restaurants you're gonna go,

you're gonna get that feeling...

It's something beyond

just the plate you have
in front of you.

It is the understanding of...

the happiness
that hardship gives you.

So, we're drinking cider?

That's what we should
be drinking.

And it goes good
with the seafood?

The biggest partnership
in the history of mankind.

- Wow, strong words.
- By far.

Yeah.

To me, this is probably

one of the most difficult
things to do.

Look at how he's hitting
the rim of the glass.

Look at all the oxygen
that they're putting.

Look at... I mean,
I love this tradition.

And he doesn't even
look at the glass.

Come on. He's like a Jedi.

That's beautiful.

- Oricios. Sea urchin.
- Yeah.

You know what,
I'd kill for these.

Mmm.

Holy crap.

This is one of my favorite
things on earth.

Good sea urchin.
Me too.

Mmm.

Probably this is one
of the best animals

we have in the ocean.
Right.

- Oricios.
- Oricios.

Traditionally,
I like to eat them raw,

but in Asturias, the vast
majority of the people,

they like them put into water...

- Really?
- For a few seconds.

This is plancha.

And this is very much
the cooking of Spain,

the cooking of Asturias.

The seafood will be raw,

will be a slightly boil,

or will be done on the
flattop, quick, fast.

Right.

The centollo:
the spider crab.

- Oh, yeah...
- Where is Instagram?

- Yeah, I'm on it.
- Boom.

I'm on it, dude.
I'm getting a zoom shot.

People complain about my pans...

But I'm going in for a zoom.

Going in for the close.

- Boom.
- Oh, yeah.

Okay, my man.

- This...
- This is unbelievable.

Is what I'm talking about.

This is one of
the best centollos

I've seen in a long time.

Oh, I mean, it's unbelievable.

Are you smelling?
Smell this. Smell.

Yeah.

Do you understand?
This is the smell of seafood.

Sometimes, we forget
that it doesn't matter

how good is the seafood
or fresh.

I don't care if it's
the catch of the day.

If it's overcooked, it's gone.

We got percebes.

- Gooseneck barnacles, my boy.
- Sweet!

All right.

All right.

What, we're going swimming
for those things later?

You want to?

What, do you just dive
right in with a Speedo

and rip them off the wall,
right?

- Yep.
- Easy.

No.

You have to respect
that at the sea...

These guys put
their lives at risk

to bring the fresh gooseneck
barnacles to the tables.

But it's a flavor like no other.

Sometimes, I feel like, wow,
we don't appreciate enough

when we eat these foods.

A whole bunch goes into it.

With other fishermen,

we wouldn't be having
what we have.

So you like the cider?

Yes, this is quite delicious.

You see how apples and seafood

go hand by hand?

Because this is very acidic.

'Cause nice acidity

goes so well with the saltiness.

It's unbelievable.
It's a perfect match.

It's like ebony and ivory
living together in harmony.

Where do you come up
with this phrase?

That's, uh,
I think Sir Paul McCartney.

One of his more insipid lines.

Well, you told me
Asturias was beautiful,

but, uh, man, you didn't lie.

It is amazing.

I can't believe
these, like, farmhouses

all the way up these mountains.

There are no farmhouses.

It's where the shepherds stay

for weeks at a time sometimes,

taking care of the herd,

of the goats, of the sheep,
of the cows.

Their cheeses are made
with the three milks.

And Asturias has the biggest
concentration of cheese makers

anywhere in the world, period.

And we use the land like nobody.

Especially using the caves
to cure them

is brilliant.

Not a lot of places in the world

that you have
something like this,

caves that produce,

for centuries, amazing cheese.

Do you think you could do
a cheese-themed,

like, uh, theme park?

That can be fun.

A giant volcano of cheese...

Take little boats around
in a fondue pot.

I don't know, but you know
what I think sometimes?

- Yeah?
- You know, "Apocalypse Now"...

- Yes.
- When Marlon Brando...

I don't remember
what was the name of the...

- Kurtz. Colonel Kurtz.
- Yeah!

- Walter E. Kurtz.
- And they finally find him...

- Right. Right.
- Living in that cave?

I always dreamed, like, one day,

I'm good gonna end
in a place like this...

But just surrounded by chee...
It'll be a cheese cave.

Surrounded by cheese
and living alone.

And maybe one day,
my friend Eric Ripert

and Tony Bourdain visited me,

before I lose control
of my mind.

So, wait a minute,
I'm seeing this.

You're dressed all in black.
We shave your head.

You're sitting in
this dark cheese cave.

Eric Ripert playing
Corporal Willard

comes to kill you.

Finds you surrounded by
all of these fantastic cheeses.

I'd play the Dennis Hopper
role, of course.

It's gonna happen.

I see it happening.

You ever seen a snail

crawl across the edge
of a straight razor?

I can just see Eric now,
dressed in fatigue, saying,

"They said your methods
are unsound."

Man, why do you always
finish your beer

and I barely begin?

Professional.

I'm seriously liking
this cheese.

You export these, right?

- Spain, oh, yeah, big exports.
- Yeah.

Like, this one is Cabrales,
which always was my favorite.

But that is, like,
super funky, right?

Cabrales? I love it.

I do really love Cabrales.

This is really lovely.
This is fantastic.

It just all depends on how far
into the funk zone you go.

And look at... look at...
Look at... look at this.

It's almost, like,
green... green-bluish.

It's almost like
the sky and the grass

are touching each other
right on the cheese.

I mean...

And you know one thing,
it's full of penicillin, man.

Nobody gets ever sick,

if you really eat these cheeses.

I feel my syphilis clearing up.

Man!

All right, cut!

So please explain to me...

This gentlemen caught
the fish last year.

Is that correct?

2014.

In 2014, you go...

So, that means, what,
the first salmon

caught on the river.

El campano.

The first salmon of the season.

Yeah. Campano.

Today, for the entire day,

around the rivers of Asturias,

hundreds of fishermen
trying to get the permit

in a kind of an auction,

in a kind of a lottery,

where they are gonna grant them

certain parts of the river...
Right.

And only for 30 minutes,
one hour at a time,

depending how many fishermen
show up.

Siete.

No commercial fishermen?

Only the campano.

The old days, salmon
was plentiful.

And the first salmon
is called el campano,

and el campano means,
really, from the bells

that will ring on the churches

near the river
where the salmon was caught,

not as a celebration
of the salmon,

but as a way to tell everybody

that salmons are back.

"Let's go back to the river
and fish them,

'cause that is the food
we are waiting for."

I get super emotional
when I think...

Take a look at all these photos.

I remember watching
those same photos

of my grandfather
hunting and fishing

and catching salmons,

and this to me,
being here in this moment,

becomes really personal.

I hear a rumor you're looking
to buy a fish today?

You're looking to bid
on the first?

Listen to me:
Bourdain and Andrés.

What, you're looking
to get me in on this too?

B and A. El campano.

Between you and me,
we can afford it, no?

All right, I'm in, I'm in.

I'm in for 50% of this fish.

Now, what's the
highest price paid

for the first fish
of the season?

For a campano, it means
6,000, 7,000, 8,000?

18... 18, uh, euros.

18? Diez y ocho?
Diez y ocho?

- 18,000 euros?
- 18,000!

I'm out.

Some local guy is
gonna jack the price,

and he's gonna keep bidding

until you're up to, like, 22.

Come on, Tony Bourdain,
what are you talking about?

What are you doing
with your money?

What am I gonna do with
the fish? I can't keep it.

We're gonna... come on,
we're gonna eat it.

You know?

Damn.

It's a lot of money.

Tony...

They are delicious.

No, let's do it.
All right.

I mean, what else
do we got here?

We're gonna eat plenty of food.

You know, Tony...

Tony's Tony.

It's easy to love Tony.

He's a good guy.

Super shy.

That's why I believe sometimes
the side of Tony

that people don't even know.

He seems like he doesn't care
about anything...

but himself...

But then you can see it...

He's the most caring person
I've ever met.

That's why I'm happy and proud
to call him a friend.

I wonder... where José is.

Oh, yeah.

Ah, my hair!

Hope he's getting some rest.

This is nuts.

Oh, well.

- Enjoy.
- Wow.

Okay, so, a traditional
local dish, I guess?

- Yeah, this is.
- What's this called?

Well, I think that's
pinto de caballo...

- Right.
- Pinto with rice.

Ah, all right.

So, born and bred in Asturias?

You were born here?
Yes, yes, yes.

What did your family...
What... what...

What business
was your family in?

Well, my grandparents
were all in the mine,

my mother in a little shop,

and my father a teacher.

What are the typical
characteristics

of someone from Asturias?

Okay, independent? Tough?

Well, there is...
Another sentence is:

"Asturiano: borracho, loco,
y mal cristiano"...

Drunk, crazy, and Christian.

Asturia: drunk, crazy,
and bad Christian.

That is important.

So, fair to say
a tradition of independence?

Yes.
Before the Spanish Civil War,

we have the Asturian Revolution,

that Asturias do in one month.

Was independent,

because we have a communist,
anarchist revolution...

Mm-hmm.

The worker movement here
was massive.

- In the mines?
- In the... yeah...

Mostly coming out of mines
and organized labor?

Yes, but, of course,

worker class fight is over.

They win.

We lose.

The problem with the miners,

it starts when
the Soviet Union was over,

and then in Europe,
the social democracy...

was over.

And the last strike
was five years ago.

The miners were
the last soldiers

of the worker class movement.

In the last strike,

the airport was closed
by the miners,

the highway, the city too.

They closed Asturias.

Everybody in the streets,
like, screaming.

The miners stay in the fight,

and the war is over
when one side win.

They win...

We lose.

And for me, that was,
like, the end of the...

The end of organized labor.

Yeah, the end of
the worker class left.

- But still you're here.
- Yeah.

The war is over,
but you're here.

Well, you can create some money,

some conditions to survive,

but not a proper job.

The only way to make money
for me was play music...

So now I'm a musician.

I think that for my music...

it's good to stay here.

Here, I have the tools.

For me, that is very important.

I just heard bagpipes.

Have you been invaded
by Scotland?

Well, we are one of
the eight Celtic nations.

With Wales, Bretaña, France,
and Scotland and Ireland,

we are Celtic nations.

Here, there is a kind of song
that is called tornada,

and tornada is just
voice and bagpipe...

And it's, like,
the music from the people

who work with the cows...

- Right, folk songs.
- Yeah, folk songs.

I think that music
is about identity.

I spend a lot of time
with my grandparents...

They listen to
a lot of Celtic music.

I have the life
to live that kind of music

and discover my identity.

And I think that Celtic,
the spirit of freedom,

is part of Asturias' identity.

Okay, we do another shot
or what?

Oh-ho-ho-ho.

Yeah, we should do another shot.

- You don't have to do it.
- I'll do it, I'll do it.

Good.

Boom.

Oh... yeah.

That's orujo.

I've tasted this
in one form or another

all over the world.

That's the local moonshine.

That's... that's good.

Tony, I have a surprise for you.

You finally got a salmon?

Don't move.

We searched for it,
and we found it.

The magical salmon.

For 1,000 euros a bite.

No! This one was given to me.

They got somebody
that got a salmon.

He's super generous.

He said, "You know,
you want salmon? Here."

Friends feed friends.

It's no way
that you come to Asturias

and you go without the bite
of the salmon.

This is gonna surprise you,

because usually,
everybody always said,

"The fish,
we need to grill it whole."

Right.

He breaks the fish in pieces.

He cuts all the pieces
through. Why?

- Grills them separately.
- Separately.

And over the flesh,

because the skin is full of fat,

and you don't want
that fat to burn.

You want that fat to melt.

To stay inside,
in the Spanish way.

And you want to maintain
the integrity of the skin.

So he grills the fish
over the flesh,

and then, probably, the skin...

is better than the flesh itself.

- Mm.
- It's unbelievable.

Muy bien. Gracias.

Buen provecho.

Oh, my God.

Wow.

Mmm. Wow.

It's everything I told you?

It's everything you told me.

The fats,
ethereally suspended somehow

between skin, flesh, and bone.

Boom.

You bite into it,

and just a flood of flavor
explodes into your brain, man.

Keep going, keep going,
keep going.

José, this is
an enchanted country,

and, in fact,
this region of the country

is the most extraordinary
place I... I... I...

Give me the dollar.
Where are the dollars?

Dollar bill.

The mountains, the sea,

it's... it's amazing.

Yes, I'm throwing you the bills.

If I had hundreds!

Just stuff it
in the G-string, my friend.

We are so close
to a white guy, I love it.

Okay, no, I'll let you say it.

- No.
- What do we say about now?

Well, no, no, first we take
one more satisfying bite.

This is how it works, okay.

I think I got the bone
in my throat.

Tracheotomy. I'm coming.

I think we've learned
something here in Asturias.

I don't know why I didn't
expect it to be this beautiful,

but it is far more beautiful
than I could've ever imagined.

The food is incredible,
the people are wonderful.

You were right about
[...] everything.

You call it, my friend.

Turn to the camera
and say the magic word.

I am not Anthony Bourdain,

but I'm calling, wide.

That's the end of the show.