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You think animals are sentient?
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00:00:13,890 --> 00:00:15,690
I think pain is, you know...
3
00:00:15,720 --> 00:00:17,100
- Pain...
- Pain is pain.
4
00:00:17,140 --> 00:00:18,410
If you don't respond to that,
5
00:00:18,450 --> 00:00:19,753
you're doing something
seriously wrong.
6
00:00:19,760 --> 00:00:21,240
That's very Buddhist of you,
I think.
7
00:00:21,280 --> 00:00:23,110
Look, when I worked in Cape Cod,
8
00:00:23,140 --> 00:00:25,730
my job was to load
this steamer with lobsters.
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00:00:25,770 --> 00:00:27,600
And they don't scream,
but, you know,
10
00:00:27,630 --> 00:00:30,120
you hear them scratching
against the thing.
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00:00:30,150 --> 00:00:31,453
I'd have dreams, and, I mean,
I'm in a sauna
12
00:00:31,460 --> 00:00:32,880
and I look through the window
13
00:00:32,910 --> 00:00:34,013
and there's this giant lobster,
14
00:00:34,020 --> 00:00:37,290
like a... you know, a bib
with a chef on it, you know.
15
00:00:41,920 --> 00:00:44,230
♪ I took a walk
through this ♪
16
00:00:44,270 --> 00:00:47,130
♪ Beautiful world
17
00:00:47,170 --> 00:00:52,240
♪ Felt the cool rain
on my shoulder ♪
18
00:00:52,280 --> 00:00:55,730
♪ Found something good
in this ♪
19
00:00:55,760 --> 00:00:58,730
♪ Beautiful world
20
00:00:58,760 --> 00:01:04,320
♪ I felt the rain
getting colder ♪
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00:01:04,360 --> 00:01:07,740
- ♪ La, la
- ♪ Sha la, la, la, la
22
00:01:07,770 --> 00:01:09,570
♪ Sha la, la, la, la
23
00:01:09,600 --> 00:01:13,740
- ♪ Sha la, la, la
- Sha la, la, la, la ♪
24
00:01:13,780 --> 00:01:18,850
♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la
25
00:01:37,630 --> 00:01:39,150
Bhutan,
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00:01:39,180 --> 00:01:41,360
a remote,
relatively rarely visited
27
00:01:41,390 --> 00:01:44,840
kingdom of myth and legend
high in the Himalayas,
28
00:01:44,880 --> 00:01:47,880
known as
Land of the Thunder Dragon.
29
00:01:54,410 --> 00:01:56,860
One of the reasons it's not
on the tourist trail
30
00:01:56,890 --> 00:01:59,380
is it's hard to get to.
31
00:02:10,530 --> 00:02:12,290
Flying in,
you hang on to your seat
32
00:02:12,320 --> 00:02:15,320
as the plane negotiates
some alarming maneuvers
33
00:02:15,360 --> 00:02:17,530
through narrow
mountain passes...
34
00:02:19,260 --> 00:02:20,850
Before dropping
into the country's
35
00:02:20,880 --> 00:02:22,710
only international airport,
36
00:02:22,740 --> 00:02:25,640
said by some to be the most
dangerous in the world.
37
00:02:49,050 --> 00:02:51,360
Located between India and Tibet,
38
00:02:51,390 --> 00:02:53,330
Bhutan, about the size
of Switzerland,
39
00:02:53,360 --> 00:02:56,330
is caught between
the old world and the new.
40
00:03:01,580 --> 00:03:04,680
Thimphu is Bhutan's capital
and largest city.
41
00:03:04,720 --> 00:03:08,450
It has a rapidly growing
population of 100,000,
42
00:03:08,480 --> 00:03:11,860
as Bhutanese have begun
the inevitable move away
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00:03:11,900 --> 00:03:14,040
from a rural,
agrarian lifestyle.
44
00:03:19,280 --> 00:03:22,460
Tourism was only allowed
starting in the 1970s.
45
00:03:22,490 --> 00:03:25,570
The amount of foreign visitors
each year is strictly limited
46
00:03:25,600 --> 00:03:29,740
to protect Bhutan's culture
and environment.
47
00:03:29,780 --> 00:03:34,470
There are no Starbucks,
no KFCs, no King or Clown.
48
00:03:34,510 --> 00:03:37,790
Basically, they don't
want you to come here...
49
00:03:37,820 --> 00:03:40,820
at least en masse.
50
00:03:43,480 --> 00:03:46,070
- Watch your head.
- Yeah, right? Wow.
51
00:03:47,690 --> 00:03:49,413
What do you think of
the altitude? How you feeling?
52
00:03:49,420 --> 00:03:51,070
I'm here because of this guy,
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00:03:51,110 --> 00:03:54,280
my friend, a film director,
Darren Aronofsky,
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00:03:54,320 --> 00:03:57,490
fresh off the unjustifiably
horrified reaction
55
00:03:57,530 --> 00:04:00,640
to what I think is
his masterpiece, "Mother!"
56
00:04:00,670 --> 00:04:03,500
I don't know if you've studied
the effects of high altitude.
57
00:04:03,540 --> 00:04:05,740
You know, your blood
gets thicker and thicker
58
00:04:05,780 --> 00:04:07,780
until it's like
freakin' marmalade.
59
00:04:07,820 --> 00:04:09,750
- All right.
- We'll be dying slowly.
60
00:04:09,780 --> 00:04:12,100
Awesome.
61
00:04:12,130 --> 00:04:14,620
"Mother!" is an angry
and thinly veiled warning
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00:04:14,650 --> 00:04:17,100
that we are destroying
our planet.
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00:04:17,130 --> 00:04:19,970
And, policy wise,
Bhutan is something
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00:04:20,000 --> 00:04:22,310
of an environmental wonderland.
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00:04:22,350 --> 00:04:25,830
You want to protect the country
from being overly influenced
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00:04:25,870 --> 00:04:28,420
by foreign values,
culture, you know,
67
00:04:28,460 --> 00:04:30,460
all of the bad stuff
that happens with tourism.
68
00:04:30,490 --> 00:04:32,770
Has anyone made a film here?
I don't know.
69
00:04:32,810 --> 00:04:34,460
It's got to be hard
to work here.
70
00:04:34,500 --> 00:04:36,460
Yeah, plus talk
about contaminating
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00:04:36,500 --> 00:04:38,153
the values of a local culture,
I mean, I don't... that'll...
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00:04:38,160 --> 00:04:39,737
What, we are... Hollywood
doesn't do that.
73
00:04:41,440 --> 00:04:43,680
Our first meal
becomes our go-to favorite
74
00:04:43,710 --> 00:04:46,340
for the rest of the trip.
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00:04:46,370 --> 00:04:49,060
If I'm not on camera,
chances are I'm somewhere
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00:04:49,100 --> 00:04:50,890
eating these bad boys.
77
00:04:50,930 --> 00:04:53,410
- Momo!
- Momos.
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00:04:53,450 --> 00:04:56,830
Plump, flavorful,
often quite spicy dumplings
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00:04:56,860 --> 00:04:59,630
filled with meat, cheese,
or veg.
80
00:05:01,080 --> 00:05:03,390
Did I mention Darren
is a vegetarian?
81
00:05:03,420 --> 00:05:05,840
- God damn, these are good.
- They are really good.
82
00:05:05,870 --> 00:05:08,080
- Try chili cheese momo?
- Pardon?
83
00:05:08,120 --> 00:05:09,880
- Chili cheese momo.
- Cheese momo?
84
00:05:09,910 --> 00:05:12,540
- Chili cheese.
- Hot, very hot.
85
00:05:12,570 --> 00:05:14,360
- Wow, everybody's smiling.
- The thing to do.
86
00:05:14,400 --> 00:05:16,570
- Okay.
- All right, here we go.
87
00:05:20,130 --> 00:05:22,820
- Mmm.
- That's excellent.
88
00:05:22,860 --> 00:05:24,820
Yeah.
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00:05:24,860 --> 00:05:26,380
That's spicy.
90
00:05:26,410 --> 00:05:27,613
That is... yeah,
I'm feeling that.
91
00:05:27,620 --> 00:05:29,900
Mmm. I feel it
in the back of my head.
92
00:05:29,930 --> 00:05:31,420
It's enlightenment.
93
00:05:31,450 --> 00:05:33,000
It's your third eye
opening, man.
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00:05:33,040 --> 00:05:34,513
I can't even tell what
we're talking about,
95
00:05:34,520 --> 00:05:36,590
I'm, like, so high
from the altitude.
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00:05:57,170 --> 00:05:58,720
Morning in Bhutan's capital.
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00:05:58,750 --> 00:06:01,620
A kingdom
that has existed contentedly
98
00:06:01,650 --> 00:06:05,860
in a state of self-imposed
isolation for centuries.
99
00:06:11,730 --> 00:06:13,560
In some forms of Buddhism
you're very much...
100
00:06:13,600 --> 00:06:15,700
This life does not matter
at all, it's about the next.
101
00:06:15,740 --> 00:06:17,050
Next.
102
00:06:17,080 --> 00:06:18,113
But on the other extreme,
103
00:06:18,120 --> 00:06:20,570
it's all about today, right now.
104
00:06:22,500 --> 00:06:25,570
The form of Buddhism practiced
here is the Middle Path.
105
00:06:25,610 --> 00:06:28,580
Middle Path.
Mahayana Buddhism.
106
00:06:31,610 --> 00:06:33,550
Buddhists consider
the next life.
107
00:06:33,580 --> 00:06:35,890
Yes, and always is your karma.
108
00:06:35,930 --> 00:06:37,450
And karma.
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00:06:37,480 --> 00:06:39,730
Whatever tragedies fall on you,
110
00:06:39,760 --> 00:06:41,660
that's the family of karma.
111
00:06:41,690 --> 00:06:45,590
It's all about an attitude,
pick up and move on.
112
00:06:54,150 --> 00:06:56,190
Once, his holiness
the Dalai Lama
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00:06:56,220 --> 00:06:59,260
told me, "Every day
when you rise up",
114
00:06:59,300 --> 00:07:02,610
"you try and be a good
a human being as possible.
115
00:07:02,650 --> 00:07:05,610
That more important
than being religious."
116
00:07:33,570 --> 00:07:35,510
- Beautiful day today.
- Winter days...
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00:07:35,540 --> 00:07:37,130
- Yeah.
- Are normally like this
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00:07:37,160 --> 00:07:38,540
every day.
119
00:07:38,580 --> 00:07:39,913
In the good old days,
we used to have
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00:07:39,920 --> 00:07:41,960
snowfalls about four,
five times a year.
121
00:07:41,990 --> 00:07:43,790
- Mm-hmm.
- But over the last decade
122
00:07:43,820 --> 00:07:47,210
or so, it's decreased a lot.
Noticeably, really?
123
00:07:47,240 --> 00:07:50,040
Some glacier lakes have
disappeared completely.
124
00:07:50,070 --> 00:07:52,520
Dasho Benji Dorji is known as
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00:07:52,560 --> 00:07:55,560
Bhutan's godfather
of environmental conservation.
126
00:07:55,590 --> 00:07:58,530
And in Tantric Buddhism,
is there a respect for nature?
127
00:07:58,560 --> 00:08:01,080
- There is a lot of respect.
- You don't mess with nature.
128
00:08:01,120 --> 00:08:03,640
Yeah, you don't
mess with nature.
129
00:08:03,670 --> 00:08:06,570
This is a traditional
welcome drink, is an ara.
130
00:08:06,610 --> 00:08:07,990
It's raw alcohol.
131
00:08:08,020 --> 00:08:10,330
The normal toast
is "tashi delek."
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00:08:10,370 --> 00:08:11,820
- Tashi delek.
- Tashi delek.
133
00:08:11,850 --> 00:08:14,060
May good fortune be with you.
134
00:08:14,100 --> 00:08:17,030
I'm a retired alcoholic,
so I will not join you.
135
00:08:17,060 --> 00:08:18,340
Okay. Mmm.
136
00:08:18,380 --> 00:08:19,760
- Pretty good.
- Yeah.
137
00:08:19,790 --> 00:08:21,590
Kind of a warm sake
but made out of wheat.
138
00:08:21,620 --> 00:08:23,000
- Yeah.
- Yes.
139
00:08:24,900 --> 00:08:26,900
If you could tell us
a little more about the chef.
140
00:08:26,940 --> 00:08:29,700
Oh, she and her husband
are both colonels
141
00:08:29,730 --> 00:08:32,110
in the Royal Bhutan Police.
Oh, wow.
142
00:08:32,150 --> 00:08:33,740
We have to use the finger.
143
00:08:33,770 --> 00:08:36,570
Touch, so that
the flavors come out.
144
00:08:36,600 --> 00:08:38,570
These recipes,
where do they come from?
145
00:08:38,600 --> 00:08:41,360
They come from the farms,
from all the local houses.
146
00:08:41,400 --> 00:08:42,780
Just passed down.
147
00:08:42,810 --> 00:08:44,710
These nine grains
have a very historical
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00:08:44,750 --> 00:08:46,370
and spiritual significance.
149
00:08:46,400 --> 00:08:49,130
There was one saint
called Drukpa Kunley,
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00:08:49,170 --> 00:08:51,100
he's known as the Madman.
The Divine Madman.
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00:08:51,130 --> 00:08:52,270
Yes, of course.
152
00:08:52,310 --> 00:08:56,380
So when he came to Bhutan,
he carried the nine grains.
153
00:08:56,410 --> 00:08:59,870
This is the hide, the yak hide.
Mm. Yes.
154
00:09:02,250 --> 00:09:04,730
Hot Sichuan pepper.
155
00:09:04,770 --> 00:09:09,220
Lots of tomatoes
to tone down the pepper.
156
00:09:09,250 --> 00:09:11,050
This is the yak hide.
157
00:09:11,080 --> 00:09:12,780
It's a delicacy.
158
00:09:12,810 --> 00:09:15,920
♪
159
00:09:15,950 --> 00:09:19,780
And then this is... the green
one is the orchid flower.
160
00:09:19,820 --> 00:09:21,130
- Oh...
- I always think
161
00:09:21,160 --> 00:09:23,060
it's very exotic, the orchid.
Mm.
162
00:09:23,100 --> 00:09:24,650
They say it's good
for your health.
163
00:09:24,680 --> 00:09:27,310
- Mmm, good.
- I know, it's really amazing.
164
00:09:27,340 --> 00:09:28,930
Can you tell us about
165
00:09:28,960 --> 00:09:30,690
the famous
Gross National Happiness?
166
00:09:30,720 --> 00:09:34,420
Ah, well, you have
in your Constitution
167
00:09:34,450 --> 00:09:36,313
the pursuit of happiness,
the right of every individual.
168
00:09:36,320 --> 00:09:38,350
It's true.
Yeah, but, we don't...
169
00:09:38,390 --> 00:09:41,800
We don't actually believe that,
but please proceed.
170
00:09:41,840 --> 00:09:44,430
I do believe in
Gross National Happiness.
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00:09:44,460 --> 00:09:46,640
Good governance, human rights,
172
00:09:46,670 --> 00:09:49,610
justice for all,
education, health.
173
00:09:50,470 --> 00:09:52,300
It is not a wealthy country.
174
00:09:52,330 --> 00:09:54,160
The average daily wage
is very low.
175
00:09:54,200 --> 00:09:55,780
- Yeah.
- But would you say
176
00:09:55,820 --> 00:09:57,370
the average person
living in Bhutan
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00:09:57,410 --> 00:10:00,170
is reasonably happy and content?
178
00:10:00,200 --> 00:10:02,270
Most people, yes.
179
00:10:02,310 --> 00:10:03,443
Bhutan is
a good welfare state where
180
00:10:03,450 --> 00:10:06,100
the health of people
are taken care of,
181
00:10:06,140 --> 00:10:09,110
you know, and taken care
of very well.
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00:10:24,050 --> 00:10:24,550
♪
183
00:10:43,760 --> 00:10:44,260
♪
184
00:10:52,810 --> 00:10:55,050
It's a 2 1/2-hour drive
from the capital
185
00:10:55,080 --> 00:10:57,810
to the picturesque
mountain village of Punakha.
186
00:10:57,850 --> 00:10:58,350
♪
187
00:11:12,410 --> 00:11:14,720
This is a must-see destination
188
00:11:14,760 --> 00:11:18,040
and one-time home to
Bhutan's revered and beloved
189
00:11:18,070 --> 00:11:21,770
Drukpa Kunley,
known as the Divine Madman.
190
00:11:21,800 --> 00:11:23,420
- Beep, beep!
- Beep, beep.
191
00:11:23,460 --> 00:11:25,770
Beep, beep.
192
00:11:25,800 --> 00:11:29,740
It's...
Okay. Here you go.
193
00:11:29,770 --> 00:11:32,090
Wow.
194
00:11:32,120 --> 00:11:34,880
- Uh...
- So, I mean, we...
195
00:11:34,920 --> 00:11:37,440
I really kind of
got nothing to say.
196
00:11:39,300 --> 00:11:40,920
Now, dear viewer,
197
00:11:40,960 --> 00:11:43,930
Bhutan is a very
devoutly Buddhist country,
198
00:11:43,960 --> 00:11:47,830
and in such circumstances,
I always do my very best
199
00:11:47,860 --> 00:11:49,410
to be respectful and restrained,
200
00:11:49,450 --> 00:11:52,280
shying away from my usual
toilet humor.
201
00:11:52,310 --> 00:11:54,450
Never in the history
of television
202
00:11:54,490 --> 00:11:57,250
has a host faced
a greater challenge.
203
00:11:58,980 --> 00:12:02,770
How to talk about what's
happening without, uh...
204
00:12:02,810 --> 00:12:05,780
well, without making
the obvious joke.
205
00:12:05,810 --> 00:12:08,780
God, give me strength,
as we wander through
206
00:12:08,810 --> 00:12:10,780
the valley of the low-hanging
dick jokes.
207
00:12:10,820 --> 00:12:12,440
I'm trying to be respectful
208
00:12:12,470 --> 00:12:14,890
of a five-century
religious tradition here.
209
00:12:14,920 --> 00:12:18,060
For centuries, Bhutan
has celebrated
210
00:12:18,100 --> 00:12:20,510
the, um... phallus.
211
00:12:20,550 --> 00:12:22,240
Uh, I'm not sure
about the teeth.
212
00:12:23,340 --> 00:12:26,110
This is the necklace ones.
Ooh.
213
00:12:26,140 --> 00:12:27,525
I'm trying to think
of a circumstance
214
00:12:27,560 --> 00:12:28,933
that you could wear
that around your neck.
215
00:12:28,940 --> 00:12:31,320
You see them everywhere here.
216
00:12:31,350 --> 00:12:33,910
Ah, jeez, it's a cock-alanche.
217
00:12:33,940 --> 00:12:35,980
You could make a chess set
out of them, though.
218
00:12:36,010 --> 00:12:38,500
Really, my dick
takes your schnatz.
219
00:12:38,530 --> 00:12:39,980
Exactly.
220
00:12:40,020 --> 00:12:41,353
Yeah, that's a little...
Yeah, that's...
221
00:12:41,360 --> 00:12:42,850
That's making a statement
of some...
222
00:12:42,880 --> 00:12:45,850
Yeah, it is. It is.
223
00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,440
All right, I got to go
for the sad one.
224
00:12:47,470 --> 00:12:49,990
And you're going for sort of...
It's a rainbow.
225
00:12:50,030 --> 00:12:51,170
Rainbow dick.
Five, six...
226
00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:53,860
I want to see this appearing
on the budget, by the way.
227
00:12:53,890 --> 00:12:55,310
Exactly.
How do you write this off?
228
00:12:55,340 --> 00:12:57,520
Do I add a little tip?
N-
229
00:12:59,860 --> 00:13:01,380
- Do we have a bag?
230
00:13:01,420 --> 00:13:03,413
Can I pass this along?
I'm not walking around with it.
231
00:13:03,420 --> 00:13:05,280
I mean, I'm holding two...
232
00:13:05,320 --> 00:13:07,010
It's... I feel like I'm...
So what do they-
233
00:13:07,040 --> 00:13:08,940
Tell me what they represent.
234
00:13:08,980 --> 00:13:12,390
Uh, embarrassment?
All right.
235
00:13:13,430 --> 00:13:16,500
All this is the legacy
of Drukpa Kunley,
236
00:13:16,540 --> 00:13:19,990
a lama and holy man
who lived 500 years ago
237
00:13:20,020 --> 00:13:22,020
and spread the tenets
of Buddhism
238
00:13:22,060 --> 00:13:23,850
along with a healthy skepticism
239
00:13:23,890 --> 00:13:26,130
for the institutions of power.
240
00:13:26,170 --> 00:13:29,070
We are sitting just below
the Chimi Lhakhang
241
00:13:29,100 --> 00:13:31,590
which is a temple built
in the honor of Drukpa Kunley.
242
00:13:31,620 --> 00:13:34,000
The temple's also known
as the Temple of Fertility.
243
00:13:34,040 --> 00:13:36,970
He reveled unapologetically
in casual sex,
244
00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:39,870
the copious use of spirits,
and seduction,
245
00:13:39,900 --> 00:13:42,530
smiting demons
and making frequent friends
246
00:13:42,560 --> 00:13:44,050
with what is referred to
247
00:13:44,080 --> 00:13:47,530
as his Flaming Thunderbolt
of Wisdom,
248
00:13:47,570 --> 00:13:50,980
which is a term you and I
are unlikely to get away with.
249
00:13:51,020 --> 00:13:52,920
People from all over
the world come here
250
00:13:52,950 --> 00:13:54,880
to buy wooden penises...
Yeah.
251
00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:56,633
And to hear the stories
of the Divine Madman.
252
00:13:56,640 --> 00:13:58,433
And to get the, yeah,
blessings from the palace.
253
00:13:58,440 --> 00:14:00,890
The Phallus Palace.
Phallus Palace.
254
00:14:00,930 --> 00:14:03,410
They bless you with a phallus?
With a phallus, yeah.
255
00:14:05,410 --> 00:14:08,420
Kunga Tenzin Dorji is
a journalist and radio host
256
00:14:08,450 --> 00:14:11,070
who knows a few things
about the Divine Madman.
257
00:14:11,110 --> 00:14:13,700
The phallus has been
a symbol in Vajrayana Buddhism
258
00:14:13,730 --> 00:14:15,560
long before Drukpa Kunley
came around.
259
00:14:15,590 --> 00:14:17,600
It's just that because
he was such a character,
260
00:14:17,630 --> 00:14:19,980
it's come
to be associated with him.
261
00:14:20,010 --> 00:14:21,910
The Divine Madman was a rebel.
262
00:14:21,950 --> 00:14:24,430
Questioned his own religion.
Mmhmm.
263
00:14:24,470 --> 00:14:26,090
His own... his fellow monks.
264
00:14:26,120 --> 00:14:27,540
So the monks hated him,
of course,
265
00:14:27,570 --> 00:14:29,400
but then the establishment
hated him.
266
00:14:29,440 --> 00:14:31,090
But the people took readily
to him
267
00:14:31,130 --> 00:14:33,100
because he was a guy
who came to your house.
268
00:14:33,130 --> 00:14:35,100
It didn't mean that,
you know, like other monks,
269
00:14:35,130 --> 00:14:37,100
you had to prepare
a special meal for him.
270
00:14:37,130 --> 00:14:39,620
He probably wanted, you know,
your latest batch of ara,
271
00:14:39,650 --> 00:14:41,280
you know, the local rice wine.
272
00:14:41,310 --> 00:14:43,450
And maybe he'd hit
on your daughter
273
00:14:43,480 --> 00:14:45,450
and your wife as well,
in the process.
274
00:14:47,140 --> 00:14:48,653
So you could imagine
in 16th-century Bhutan,
275
00:14:48,660 --> 00:14:51,110
a person who was known
to have performed miracles
276
00:14:51,150 --> 00:14:52,980
would strike
the fancy of anyone.
277
00:14:53,010 --> 00:14:55,150
- Mm-hmm.
- What were his miracles?
278
00:14:55,190 --> 00:14:56,950
Well, things like
shooting an arrow
279
00:14:56,980 --> 00:14:59,090
all the way from Tibet
and landed in a house
280
00:14:59,120 --> 00:15:01,500
that's about a few
kilometers from here.
281
00:15:01,540 --> 00:15:04,060
- But he did exist, right?
- Yeah.
282
00:15:04,090 --> 00:15:06,090
Then the first thing he did
when he got to the house
283
00:15:06,130 --> 00:15:07,680
where the arrow had landed
was to hit up
284
00:15:07,720 --> 00:15:09,480
on the lady of the house.
Mmhmm.
285
00:15:09,510 --> 00:15:11,410
Yeah, that wouldn't fly
these days.
286
00:15:12,380 --> 00:15:14,240
This is one of
the most difficult things
287
00:15:14,270 --> 00:15:16,100
to understand
about Drukpa Kunley,
288
00:15:16,140 --> 00:15:18,490
because he breaks our own... our...
289
00:15:18,520 --> 00:15:21,250
Our notions about what is right
and what's proper.
290
00:15:21,280 --> 00:15:23,150
This man was essentially saying,
291
00:15:23,180 --> 00:15:24,460
"We should make love."
True.
292
00:15:24,490 --> 00:15:27,080
"We should drink.
We should feel pleasure."
293
00:15:27,110 --> 00:15:29,010
Oh, well, not necessarily that.
294
00:15:29,050 --> 00:15:30,523
I think what he was trying
to say is that,
295
00:15:30,530 --> 00:15:33,050
you know, all these things
that you hold dear
296
00:15:33,090 --> 00:15:34,633
to your heart such as,
you know, your wife
297
00:15:34,640 --> 00:15:37,440
and your kids and your house
and all of this,
298
00:15:37,470 --> 00:15:39,300
in the end,
it doesn't really matter.
299
00:15:39,330 --> 00:15:41,340
So you're saying
the Divine Madman was bringing
300
00:15:41,370 --> 00:15:44,030
people towards enlightenment.
Yes.
301
00:15:44,060 --> 00:15:45,720
So should I be
getting drunk more
302
00:15:45,750 --> 00:15:47,480
and having more casual sex?
303
00:15:47,510 --> 00:15:50,070
Will I be more enlightened?
No, not just because of that.
304
00:15:50,100 --> 00:15:52,520
I'm sure not.
305
00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:04,050
♪
306
00:16:04,080 --> 00:16:05,670
Until about 15 years ago,
307
00:16:05,700 --> 00:16:08,710
the East-West Highway
was the only road in Bhutan.
308
00:16:08,740 --> 00:16:11,230
Bisecting the country,
it twists through
309
00:16:11,260 --> 00:16:13,820
some pretty gnarly
mountain passes,
310
00:16:13,850 --> 00:16:17,300
with at times crumbly
cliff face on one side...
311
00:16:17,340 --> 00:16:19,300
Wow.
312
00:16:19,340 --> 00:16:22,650
And harrowing freakin'
drop-offs on the other.
313
00:16:22,690 --> 00:16:23,190
♪
314
00:16:29,450 --> 00:16:31,830
The road is undergoing
a major expansion,
315
00:16:31,870 --> 00:16:36,150
with plans to have it
fully paved by, well, soon.
316
00:16:36,180 --> 00:16:37,693
It's carved into
the side of the mountain.
317
00:16:37,700 --> 00:16:40,190
Unbelievable. How many
workers they say working this?
318
00:16:40,220 --> 00:16:41,430
40,000.
319
00:16:41,460 --> 00:16:44,330
Respect for the natural world
is fundamental
320
00:16:44,360 --> 00:16:46,370
to Bhutan's spiritual identity.
321
00:16:46,400 --> 00:16:48,200
More than half the country
322
00:16:48,230 --> 00:16:50,060
is off-limits to development
or timbering.
323
00:16:50,090 --> 00:16:55,620
A whopping 50% of Bhutan's GDP
comes from hydropower.
324
00:16:55,650 --> 00:16:57,760
- Amazing, huh?
- So where are we?
325
00:16:57,790 --> 00:16:59,280
What is this place?
326
00:16:59,310 --> 00:17:01,800
This is the Punatsangchhu
hydropower dam.
327
00:17:01,830 --> 00:17:04,110
So this is one of the biggest
hydropower dams in Bhutan.
328
00:17:04,140 --> 00:17:05,870
It's about 1,200 megawatts.
329
00:17:05,900 --> 00:17:08,350
- How much is that?
- It's a lot of refrigerators.
330
00:17:08,390 --> 00:17:10,250
No, I heard there's gonna be
331
00:17:10,290 --> 00:17:11,770
a second...
Second dam further down.
332
00:17:11,810 --> 00:17:13,430
So they're gonna capture
power twice.
333
00:17:13,460 --> 00:17:15,640
If you have already
destroyed one river,
334
00:17:15,670 --> 00:17:17,570
you know, might as well...
Keep building-
335
00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:19,563
- Get the most out of it.
- Yeah, get the most out of it.
336
00:17:19,570 --> 00:17:21,780
Dr. Nawang Norbu
is the director of
337
00:17:21,820 --> 00:17:25,130
the School for Field Studies
Bhutan program.
338
00:17:25,160 --> 00:17:26,263
And what country's
building this?
339
00:17:26,270 --> 00:17:27,890
- It's mostly India.
- Do the Indians
340
00:17:27,920 --> 00:17:30,100
build it and then get
the power to pay it?
341
00:17:30,130 --> 00:17:32,100
They get the power.
We sell it to them.
342
00:17:32,140 --> 00:17:34,310
And then we sort of
liquidate the loans away.
343
00:17:34,350 --> 00:17:36,830
We have five such dams
which are operational.
344
00:17:36,860 --> 00:17:38,450
- Five.
- And I-I think
345
00:17:38,490 --> 00:17:40,390
six being constructed
at the moment.
346
00:17:40,420 --> 00:17:42,280
You know, obviously there's
a lot of destruction.
347
00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:43,840
It will stop some of the fishes
348
00:17:43,870 --> 00:17:45,630
from migrating up and down.
349
00:17:45,670 --> 00:17:47,353
You're also talking about
a lot of transmission lines.
350
00:17:47,360 --> 00:17:49,120
But, obviously, for Bhutan,
351
00:17:49,150 --> 00:17:50,640
I think when we started on
352
00:17:50,670 --> 00:17:52,183
the path of development,
I think we were left
353
00:17:52,190 --> 00:17:53,610
with few other options.
354
00:17:53,640 --> 00:17:55,810
And I think this was
the best thing for us to do.
355
00:17:55,850 --> 00:17:57,580
The water that comes
through this dam,
356
00:17:57,610 --> 00:17:59,300
is it an inexhaustible supply?
357
00:17:59,340 --> 00:18:01,820
- It's all glacial water.
- We hope so.
358
00:18:01,860 --> 00:18:03,620
There are many studies
which are showing
359
00:18:03,650 --> 00:18:05,650
that the Himalayan glaciers
will disappear
360
00:18:05,690 --> 00:18:08,140
in about 50 to 60 years.
Whoa. Whoa. Whoa.
361
00:18:08,170 --> 00:18:09,450
That's soon.
Yeah.
362
00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:10,760
Yeah, but nobody knows for sure.
363
00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:12,140
I mean, the science
is debatable.
364
00:18:12,180 --> 00:18:13,313
Are we talking about
the difference
365
00:18:13,320 --> 00:18:14,800
between 50 years and 100 years,
366
00:18:14,830 --> 00:18:16,693
or are we talking about whether
it's happening at all?
367
00:18:16,700 --> 00:18:18,523
No, it is happening.
There's no doubt about it.
368
00:18:18,530 --> 00:18:20,453
- Yes, there's no doubt.
- And you're not only talking
369
00:18:20,460 --> 00:18:21,873
about energy production but
you're also talking
370
00:18:21,880 --> 00:18:23,330
about agriculture.
371
00:18:23,360 --> 00:18:24,500
You know, you have less snow,
372
00:18:24,530 --> 00:18:26,360
it means you have
less water to feed.
373
00:18:26,400 --> 00:18:29,330
So climate change is going
to have a serious impact.
374
00:18:32,580 --> 00:18:34,540
♪
375
00:18:38,270 --> 00:18:38,770
♪
376
00:18:46,350 --> 00:18:46,850
♪
377
00:18:59,220 --> 00:18:59,720
♪
378
00:19:12,370 --> 00:19:12,870
♪
379
00:19:23,390 --> 00:19:25,530
As we head further
and further east,
380
00:19:25,560 --> 00:19:27,840
road conditions get sketchy.
381
00:19:31,530 --> 00:19:33,290
Whoa.
382
00:19:36,470 --> 00:19:36,970
♪
383
00:19:49,410 --> 00:19:49,910
♪
384
00:19:57,760 --> 00:19:59,870
♪
385
00:19:59,900 --> 00:20:02,290
Whoa.
Wow.
386
00:20:02,320 --> 00:20:03,460
♪
387
00:20:03,490 --> 00:20:05,290
Looks like a landslide.
388
00:20:05,320 --> 00:20:07,950
That whole thing collapsed.
389
00:20:07,980 --> 00:20:09,810
That's not encouraging.
390
00:20:09,850 --> 00:20:12,920
What if our car had been...
391
00:20:12,950 --> 00:20:15,400
That's a big freaking...
392
00:20:15,440 --> 00:20:17,890
Oh, shoot, he's gonna have
to move that whole thing?
393
00:20:17,920 --> 00:20:20,790
I think we're gonna freeze
out here like rats tonight.
394
00:20:26,380 --> 00:20:29,420
♪
395
00:20:29,450 --> 00:20:30,490
Jeez.
Whoa!
396
00:20:34,460 --> 00:20:37,080
♪
397
00:20:37,110 --> 00:20:38,933
He's... look at that.
He's going after the big one.
398
00:20:38,940 --> 00:20:41,950
Here he goes.
Whoa.
399
00:20:41,980 --> 00:20:44,360
Whoa,
400
00:20:44,400 --> 00:20:47,400
♪
401
00:20:47,430 --> 00:20:48,850
Hey, he's through.
402
00:20:48,880 --> 00:20:51,090
- You think that's it?
- Saddle up.
403
00:20:51,130 --> 00:20:51,630
♪
404
00:20:58,380 --> 00:21:01,450
- That song about the road...
- Ah. Mm.
405
00:21:01,480 --> 00:21:03,310
It's almost having
West Virginia,
406
00:21:03,350 --> 00:21:05,630
Blue Ridge Mountains...
"Country Roads."
407
00:21:05,660 --> 00:21:07,660
John Denver?
408
00:21:07,700 --> 00:21:09,420
It's where my head went first.
409
00:21:09,460 --> 00:21:11,040
Wow.
410
00:21:29,820 --> 00:21:30,320
♪
411
00:21:41,560 --> 00:21:43,900
It is considered
enlightening and therapeutic
412
00:21:43,940 --> 00:21:46,390
to think about death
for a few minutes a day.
413
00:21:46,420 --> 00:21:48,390
Yes.
414
00:21:48,430 --> 00:21:50,360
You are reminded time and again
415
00:21:50,390 --> 00:21:53,360
not to take things
too seriously.
416
00:21:53,400 --> 00:21:55,740
This is in fact an illusion,
isn't it?
417
00:21:55,780 --> 00:21:58,060
- Life is but a dream.
- Yeah.
418
00:22:02,850 --> 00:22:03,350
♪
419
00:22:18,560 --> 00:22:19,060
♪
420
00:22:31,230 --> 00:22:34,890
Pelela Pass,
the gateway to Central Bhutan.
421
00:22:39,130 --> 00:22:41,480
Here, nomadic herders
and their yaks
422
00:22:41,510 --> 00:22:43,030
come down from higher elevations
423
00:22:43,070 --> 00:22:45,030
to spend the winter months.
424
00:22:54,770 --> 00:22:56,870
And from the yak you get meat?
425
00:22:56,910 --> 00:22:58,600
- Meat.
- The fur?
426
00:22:58,630 --> 00:22:59,950
The fur. Milk.
Cheese.
427
00:22:59,980 --> 00:23:02,090
- Butter?
- Yeah.
428
00:23:02,810 --> 00:23:04,090
This is butter tea.
429
00:23:04,120 --> 00:23:06,440
- Yak tea?
- Yeah, with yak butter.
430
00:23:06,470 --> 00:23:07,990
- Have you had this before?
- Never.
431
00:23:08,020 --> 00:23:09,580
You're either gonna love it
432
00:23:09,610 --> 00:23:12,720
or you're not gonna love it
433
00:23:17,550 --> 00:23:18,790
That was very unique.
434
00:23:18,830 --> 00:23:20,450
Ooh.
435
00:23:22,930 --> 00:23:24,660
♪
436
00:23:24,700 --> 00:23:26,080
So yak jerky.
437
00:23:26,110 --> 00:23:28,660
Yak meat and some spinach.
438
00:23:28,700 --> 00:23:29,980
You'll like these greens, man.
439
00:23:30,010 --> 00:23:31,600
They are spicy as f...
Do I have yak?
440
00:23:31,630 --> 00:23:33,003
Is this yak meat here?
Yeah, that's yak meat.
441
00:23:33,010 --> 00:23:34,500
Okay, I got to avoid
the yak meat.
442
00:23:34,530 --> 00:23:36,740
And then these are dried chilis
443
00:23:36,780 --> 00:23:38,990
which are boiled.
444
00:23:39,020 --> 00:23:42,580
Ah, the yak cheese
with boiled dried chilis.
445
00:23:42,610 --> 00:23:44,850
Yeah, I'm all over that.
446
00:23:46,200 --> 00:23:47,820
This is excellent.
Yeah.
447
00:23:47,860 --> 00:23:50,510
Excellent.
Really good.
448
00:23:52,550 --> 00:23:55,590
So yak herding is dying, we're
starting to hear. It's...
449
00:23:55,620 --> 00:23:57,590
- People are giving it up.
- Why?
450
00:23:57,620 --> 00:23:59,210
Better opportunities I suppose.
451
00:23:59,250 --> 00:24:00,700
Yak herding is a difficult life.
452
00:24:00,730 --> 00:24:01,870
She herself has given up now.
453
00:24:03,670 --> 00:24:05,490
So she has given all
her yaks to her sisters
454
00:24:05,530 --> 00:24:07,290
So she's now... she has a shop
455
00:24:07,320 --> 00:24:10,020
and she's gone up the ladder.
456
00:24:13,850 --> 00:24:16,510
♪
457
00:24:20,540 --> 00:24:22,200
Yeah, she is in charge
of the business
458
00:24:22,240 --> 00:24:23,960
and she makes the decisions
for the family.
459
00:24:24,000 --> 00:24:25,790
In Bhutan, women are the boss.
460
00:24:25,830 --> 00:24:27,970
Women inherit whatever
the parents own.
461
00:24:28,000 --> 00:24:29,310
It's not the sons.
462
00:24:29,350 --> 00:24:30,993
Always? All inheritance
goes to the woman?
463
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:32,730
Yes, women.
464
00:24:32,760 --> 00:24:34,140
- What is this?
- Wow.
465
00:24:34,180 --> 00:24:37,040
This is ara,
with some Cordyceps in it.
466
00:24:37,080 --> 00:24:39,220
- What? That is a Cordycep?
- Right there.
467
00:24:39,250 --> 00:24:41,220
- That is the Cordycep.
- Which is?
468
00:24:41,250 --> 00:24:43,640
Essentially,
the Cordycep is a fungus
469
00:24:43,670 --> 00:24:47,610
which infects the larvae
of the ghost moths.
470
00:24:47,640 --> 00:24:50,330
A caterpillar that has been
invaded by fungus.
471
00:24:50,370 --> 00:24:52,990
Essentially takes over
the whole larvae,
472
00:24:53,020 --> 00:24:55,200
kills it, sort of mummifies
the whole thing.
473
00:24:55,230 --> 00:24:57,270
Then in the spring,
it protrudes out again.
474
00:24:57,300 --> 00:24:59,930
Is there any caterpillar
left at the end or is it fo...
475
00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:01,613
Sort of like fossilized?
It's just a fossil.
476
00:25:01,620 --> 00:25:03,690
Meaning it is not meat.
477
00:25:03,730 --> 00:25:04,660
It is vegetarian.
478
00:25:04,690 --> 00:25:06,350
Right.
479
00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:09,560
Cordyceps are the new
profit center for a culture
480
00:25:09,590 --> 00:25:12,700
that used to revolve almost
entirely around the yak.
481
00:25:12,730 --> 00:25:15,220
Wow, so this stuff
costs how much a kilo?
482
00:25:15,250 --> 00:25:18,740
Um, on average,
it's about, uh, 20,000.
483
00:25:18,770 --> 00:25:20,120
- 20,000 U.S.?
- Dollars.
484
00:25:20,160 --> 00:25:21,850
- Oh, that's a lot.
- May I?
485
00:25:21,880 --> 00:25:23,680
Yes, please.
486
00:25:25,330 --> 00:25:27,020
What does this do for you?
487
00:25:27,060 --> 00:25:28,850
Supposed to increase
your virility.
488
00:25:28,890 --> 00:25:30,300
It's supposed to kill piles.
489
00:25:30,340 --> 00:25:32,060
You know, even hepatitis.
Really?
490
00:25:32,100 --> 00:25:33,200
- Hepatitis?
- Yeah.
491
00:25:33,240 --> 00:25:34,690
- Piles, eh?
- What is piles?
492
00:25:34,720 --> 00:25:36,210
- Hemorrhoids.
- Oh.
493
00:25:36,240 --> 00:25:37,753
And the Chinese athletes
have been taking it
494
00:25:37,760 --> 00:25:40,380
for quite some time.
So they're doping on, uh...
495
00:25:40,420 --> 00:25:42,413
- They're doping on fungus.
- They're doping on fungus.
496
00:25:42,420 --> 00:25:43,970
Yeah.
497
00:25:44,010 --> 00:25:45,630
It's pretty tasty.
498
00:25:45,660 --> 00:25:49,670
Yeah, it also says
that you produce more semen.
499
00:25:49,700 --> 00:25:52,150
I don't know how far
is true, but...
500
00:25:52,190 --> 00:25:53,880
So what about the...
What's his name?
501
00:25:53,910 --> 00:25:55,120
The Divine Madman.
502
00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:57,050
Maybe the guy was, you know,
503
00:25:57,090 --> 00:25:58,400
eating a lot of Cordyceps.
504
00:25:58,430 --> 00:26:00,610
Exactly.
505
00:26:04,680 --> 00:26:08,070
♪
506
00:26:10,690 --> 00:26:12,760
It's getting hot in here.
507
00:26:12,790 --> 00:26:15,730
Well, no it's not, actually.
It's you. It's you, man.
508
00:26:17,450 --> 00:26:20,080
What happens if you eat
too many?
509
00:26:22,110 --> 00:26:24,630
♪
510
00:26:27,120 --> 00:26:27,620
♪
511
00:26:50,040 --> 00:26:50,540
♪
512
00:26:58,910 --> 00:27:02,400
We are here
on the East-West Highway.
513
00:27:05,090 --> 00:27:07,680
After this pass,
we are actually entering
514
00:27:07,710 --> 00:27:08,850
the Black Mountain Forest.
515
00:27:08,880 --> 00:27:11,160
Some of the most
pristine forest in Bhutan.
516
00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:13,160
But also supposed
to be connected
517
00:27:13,200 --> 00:27:14,820
to a lot of evil spirits.
518
00:27:14,860 --> 00:27:17,690
With the last remnants
of sun still with us
519
00:27:17,720 --> 00:27:20,170
and the views spectacular,
520
00:27:20,210 --> 00:27:22,760
enthusiastic amateur
mixologist Darren
521
00:27:22,800 --> 00:27:24,070
suggests a pit stop...
522
00:27:24,110 --> 00:27:26,040
- This is a cool spot, no?
- Yeah.
523
00:27:26,070 --> 00:27:30,040
To fortify ourselves against
the reputed horrors ahead.
524
00:27:30,080 --> 00:27:33,840
So our main alcohol...
Ara, is that what it's called?
525
00:27:33,880 --> 00:27:36,330
- Take a whiff.
- Oh, jeez.
526
00:27:36,360 --> 00:27:38,400
Oh, Jesus.
527
00:27:38,430 --> 00:27:40,810
Oh, we have this,
which is a bitter.
528
00:27:40,850 --> 00:27:43,370
Yeah, okay.
It's like aftershave.
529
00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:45,330
Exactly.
530
00:27:45,370 --> 00:27:46,780
Should we put some orange
in there?
531
00:27:46,820 --> 00:27:48,340
We do have oranges.
532
00:27:49,820 --> 00:27:51,060
Ever done that spin in the air?
533
00:27:51,100 --> 00:27:53,520
Catch in the other hand.
534
00:27:53,550 --> 00:27:55,760
Hello, ladies.
535
00:27:55,790 --> 00:27:57,730
Oh, oh, hold on. Hold on.
What?
536
00:27:57,760 --> 00:28:00,760
Hold on. Hold on.
Dude.
537
00:28:00,800 --> 00:28:03,770
It needs a yeti in it.
The boot needs pepper.
538
00:28:03,800 --> 00:28:04,910
No, no, no. Go for it.
539
00:28:04,940 --> 00:28:06,420
No... really want the seeds in?
540
00:28:06,460 --> 00:28:07,553
Yeah, yeah, yeah,
Do it. Do it.
541
00:28:07,560 --> 00:28:09,120
Let's do it.
Let's try it.
542
00:28:14,400 --> 00:28:15,810
It has a bite.
Did you get, like...
543
00:28:15,850 --> 00:28:17,020
Did you get a little sting?
544
00:28:17,060 --> 00:28:18,780
Oh, I'm getting it.
I'm getting it.
545
00:28:18,820 --> 00:28:20,200
Actually, this is pretty good.
546
00:28:20,230 --> 00:28:22,269
Yeah, I could really...
I could drink a lot of these.
547
00:28:25,860 --> 00:28:26,360
♪
548
00:28:39,840 --> 00:28:42,220
We decide, as travelers
through demon-infested
549
00:28:42,250 --> 00:28:44,910
forests at night
all too frequently do,
550
00:28:44,950 --> 00:28:47,400
to stop by
a welcoming roadhouse,
551
00:28:47,430 --> 00:28:48,950
where a conversation with
552
00:28:48,980 --> 00:28:50,950
Gara Durji, our government rep,
553
00:28:50,990 --> 00:28:53,300
does little to steel us
for the journey ahead.
554
00:28:53,330 --> 00:28:56,790
What are we drinking tonight?
Uh, we are drinking K5.
555
00:28:56,820 --> 00:28:58,580
- Called K5 because...
- K5.
556
00:28:58,610 --> 00:29:01,310
The whiskey is dedicated
to the present king.
557
00:29:01,340 --> 00:29:03,070
He is fifth king in line.
558
00:29:03,100 --> 00:29:04,900
Do they still make K4?
Or no more?
559
00:29:04,930 --> 00:29:07,420
Uh, no, you don't have K4,
just K5.
560
00:29:07,450 --> 00:29:08,970
- Good, thank you.
- Okay.
561
00:29:12,280 --> 00:29:14,320
♪
562
00:29:14,350 --> 00:29:16,940
Most of the guys
brought in from India?
563
00:29:16,980 --> 00:29:18,500
Ah, yeah.
Most are from India.
564
00:29:18,530 --> 00:29:19,670
Where do these guys live?
565
00:29:19,700 --> 00:29:23,810
They have small huts built
at the construction site.
566
00:29:23,850 --> 00:29:25,370
In the mythology of the area,
567
00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:27,950
much of it likely
predating even Buddhism,
568
00:29:27,990 --> 00:29:31,820
demons inhabit these forests,
nasty demons.
569
00:29:31,860 --> 00:29:33,440
Buddha had 1,000 lives.
570
00:29:33,480 --> 00:29:35,820
In one of his 500 good lives,
571
00:29:35,860 --> 00:29:37,830
he was exiled to Bhutan
572
00:29:37,860 --> 00:29:40,830
because this was
the most dreaded place...
573
00:29:40,860 --> 00:29:42,560
Maybe that's why
you were never invaded.
574
00:29:42,590 --> 00:29:44,350
Yeah.
575
00:29:44,380 --> 00:29:47,870
One of the evil spirit
is called Nyaladim,
576
00:29:47,910 --> 00:29:50,840
and she's supposed to be
the commander in chief
577
00:29:50,870 --> 00:29:53,880
of all in the evil spirit.
578
00:29:53,910 --> 00:29:55,640
One of the most
terrifying things
579
00:29:55,670 --> 00:29:58,020
you could ever see is her face.
580
00:29:58,050 --> 00:30:00,190
If you see her, you die...
You drop dead instantly.
581
00:30:00,230 --> 00:30:01,540
You drop dead.
582
00:30:01,570 --> 00:30:03,580
So if Darren has
to, like, take a piss
583
00:30:03,610 --> 00:30:04,883
and, you know,
go out in the woods,
584
00:30:04,890 --> 00:30:06,580
that would... not advisable?
Ah, no.
585
00:30:06,610 --> 00:30:08,930
It's not advisable
to go out at night.
586
00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,883
And no lumbering. No one's
cutting down trees here.
587
00:30:10,890 --> 00:30:13,520
No one.
For as long as we know,
588
00:30:13,550 --> 00:30:15,860
the whole mountain range
is virgin.
589
00:30:15,900 --> 00:30:17,103
Right, but what about
putting the road through?
590
00:30:17,110 --> 00:30:19,040
I mean, maybe that's why
you hire Indian guys.
591
00:30:19,070 --> 00:30:21,870
The road is on the other side
of the mountain.
592
00:30:21,910 --> 00:30:23,870
We build it purposefully
that way.
593
00:30:23,910 --> 00:30:26,430
Really? So, like,
nobody's got a house or...
594
00:30:26,460 --> 00:30:29,020
No, nothing. Nothing.
There's nothing like that.
595
00:30:29,050 --> 00:30:31,920
Even if people loses cattle,
whatever,
596
00:30:31,950 --> 00:30:33,920
they don't go into there.
Still?
597
00:30:33,950 --> 00:30:35,680
Still even to this day.
598
00:30:44,310 --> 00:30:44,810
♪
599
00:31:03,020 --> 00:31:03,520
♪
600
00:31:27,110 --> 00:31:30,010
♪
601
00:31:30,040 --> 00:31:32,980
Here in the mist covered
valleys and imposing peaks,
602
00:31:33,010 --> 00:31:36,080
it's easy to imagine
what this place looked like
603
00:31:36,120 --> 00:31:39,570
before Bhutan first opened
the door to outsiders.
604
00:31:45,020 --> 00:31:46,130
♪
605
00:31:50,990 --> 00:31:54,270
♪
606
00:31:54,310 --> 00:31:57,100
Bumthang is the end
of the road for us,
607
00:31:57,140 --> 00:32:00,110
the spiritual heartland
of Bhutan.
608
00:32:00,140 --> 00:32:02,250
♪
609
00:32:05,390 --> 00:32:08,250
♪
610
00:32:08,290 --> 00:32:10,010
Archery is the national sport,
611
00:32:10,050 --> 00:32:12,460
an important community event
that binds
612
00:32:12,500 --> 00:32:15,540
remote villages together
in fierce competition
613
00:32:15,570 --> 00:32:17,780
and in a rollicking good time.
614
00:32:24,720 --> 00:32:27,310
♪
615
00:32:27,340 --> 00:32:29,480
Thank you very much.
616
00:32:29,520 --> 00:32:31,310
Today's the day
of a match between
617
00:32:31,340 --> 00:32:35,110
Trongsa and a rival village.
618
00:32:35,140 --> 00:32:37,800
But first, food.
619
00:32:40,350 --> 00:32:43,320
Okay, you have to, you know?
No, no, this...
620
00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:44,810
- Bigger.
- See this way?
621
00:32:44,840 --> 00:32:46,290
Ah, right. Okay.
622
00:32:46,330 --> 00:32:47,710
No, yours too big.
Too big.
623
00:32:47,740 --> 00:32:49,540
- Too big? Too...
- Yeah, okay.
624
00:32:49,570 --> 00:32:51,160
- That's okay?
- See, when you put it
625
00:32:51,190 --> 00:32:52,363
in the mouth,
you have to put it this way.
626
00:32:52,370 --> 00:32:54,230
Oh, okay.
627
00:32:54,260 --> 00:32:56,340
No, it's not bulging.
Is it bulging?
628
00:32:56,370 --> 00:32:58,650
- Oh, not bulging.
- It should not bulge.
629
00:32:58,680 --> 00:33:00,200
No bulge.
630
00:33:00,240 --> 00:33:01,820
♪
631
00:33:01,860 --> 00:33:03,650
Oh, yeah, I'm down
with that, man.
632
00:33:03,690 --> 00:33:05,170
- That's pork?
- Mm-hmm.
633
00:33:05,210 --> 00:33:06,240
Why is it translucent?
634
00:33:06,280 --> 00:33:08,210
They braise it
rather than fry it.
635
00:33:08,240 --> 00:33:10,380
So it becomes clear.
Mmm.
636
00:33:10,420 --> 00:33:12,830
This is like unbelievable.
637
00:33:14,110 --> 00:33:15,560
We eat everything.
638
00:33:15,600 --> 00:33:18,080
We don't throw it out.
This is the bone.
639
00:33:18,120 --> 00:33:21,190
- Bone.
- On the leg.
640
00:33:21,220 --> 00:33:23,120
Chop it and boil it.
641
00:33:24,570 --> 00:33:27,330
Mmm.
That's good, man.
642
00:33:27,370 --> 00:33:29,850
- Yeah.
- That's just so good.
643
00:33:29,890 --> 00:33:33,170
- I'm going with the pepper.
- Ooh.
644
00:33:33,200 --> 00:33:35,550
♪
645
00:33:35,580 --> 00:33:37,200
Ooh, that's setting
my hair on fire.
646
00:33:37,240 --> 00:33:39,520
- Exactly.
- This is dried turnip leaves.
647
00:33:39,550 --> 00:33:41,760
Oh, turnip greens.
648
00:33:43,180 --> 00:33:45,280
Turnip leaves
is a delicacy in Bhutan.
649
00:33:45,320 --> 00:33:47,080
A little bit of butter.
650
00:33:47,110 --> 00:33:50,180
And milk.
651
00:33:50,220 --> 00:33:54,360
- Mmm.
- Now this is a yak, no, leg.
652
00:33:54,390 --> 00:33:56,220
Yak leg.
653
00:33:56,260 --> 00:33:56,760
♪
654
00:34:00,500 --> 00:34:01,913
So does meat eating
go all the way back
655
00:34:01,920 --> 00:34:04,400
or were people vegetarian...
All the way back.
656
00:34:04,440 --> 00:34:05,710
All the way.
In fact,
657
00:34:05,750 --> 00:34:08,550
the Bhutanese were
considered cannibals.
658
00:34:08,580 --> 00:34:10,240
Say that again.
659
00:34:10,270 --> 00:34:12,380
Bhutanese were
considered cannibals.
660
00:34:12,410 --> 00:34:16,100
The only vegetable we had
was potato and radish.
661
00:34:16,140 --> 00:34:17,550
That's it, nothing else.
Wow.
662
00:34:17,590 --> 00:34:20,590
People don't kill,
but they would eat,
663
00:34:20,630 --> 00:34:23,390
you know, one another
if somebody dies.
664
00:34:23,420 --> 00:34:24,763
We are not supposed
to eat each other.
665
00:34:24,770 --> 00:34:26,220
You're not supposed to eat yak.
666
00:34:26,250 --> 00:34:27,593
No, no, we are not supposed
to eat meat.
667
00:34:27,600 --> 00:34:29,260
You're not supposed
to eat meats.
668
00:34:29,290 --> 00:34:30,873
Buddhism, I mean,
the hard-core Buddhism.
669
00:34:30,880 --> 00:34:32,670
But culturally,
because of terrain,
670
00:34:32,710 --> 00:34:35,120
we had no choice.
Right.
671
00:34:35,160 --> 00:34:36,920
Ooh, is that bete nut?
672
00:34:36,950 --> 00:34:38,260
- Yeah.
- Betel nut.
673
00:34:38,300 --> 00:34:40,440
- Oh, can I try?
- Yeah. Yeah.
674
00:34:40,470 --> 00:34:42,170
I'm not having it.
675
00:34:42,200 --> 00:34:44,170
- Have you done it?
- Yes, yes, I have.
676
00:34:45,340 --> 00:34:48,340
You asked for it.
And you chew up the green?
677
00:34:48,380 --> 00:34:49,930
Yeah, everything
chewed together...
678
00:34:49,970 --> 00:34:52,350
Like cud.
679
00:34:55,830 --> 00:34:57,630
Whoa. Oh man.
680
00:34:57,660 --> 00:35:00,250
Getting a buzz?
681
00:35:00,290 --> 00:35:03,530
My whole mouth is numb.
682
00:35:03,570 --> 00:35:06,290
I got to do something
about this.
683
00:35:10,540 --> 00:35:12,200
Totally high off of that thing.
684
00:35:16,820 --> 00:35:20,510
♪
685
00:35:20,550 --> 00:35:23,650
Ah, jeez, just stepped
into a fresh loaf of shit.
686
00:35:23,690 --> 00:35:24,720
Ugh.
687
00:35:30,390 --> 00:35:32,280
♪
688
00:35:32,320 --> 00:35:34,320
Whee!
689
00:35:34,360 --> 00:35:35,840
Ah, right here. Ah, yeah.
690
00:35:35,870 --> 00:35:40,190
Whoa, jeez.
It's a serious distance.
691
00:35:40,220 --> 00:35:41,530
The rules are simple.
692
00:35:41,570 --> 00:35:44,500
Shoot your arrow the length
of 1 1/2 football fields
693
00:35:44,540 --> 00:35:46,850
high in the air,
in this case across
694
00:35:46,880 --> 00:35:49,540
the East-West Highway,
all the way, hopefully,
695
00:35:49,580 --> 00:35:50,920
into a small target.
696
00:35:50,960 --> 00:35:52,750
Good luck with that.
That's like...
697
00:35:52,790 --> 00:35:55,240
You would need a .50 caliber
to hit that target.
698
00:35:55,270 --> 00:35:57,830
I could barely see it
flying through the air.
699
00:35:57,860 --> 00:36:00,350
Can you see the arrows?
No.
700
00:36:00,380 --> 00:36:02,210
Yeah!
701
00:36:14,400 --> 00:36:15,780
Wow, close.
702
00:36:15,810 --> 00:36:17,780
What's interesting
is the other team
703
00:36:17,810 --> 00:36:19,950
is often standing by the target,
704
00:36:19,990 --> 00:36:22,020
and hanging out looking cool
for as long as possible
705
00:36:22,060 --> 00:36:25,230
as an arrow flies
in your general direction
706
00:36:25,270 --> 00:36:26,610
is standard practice.
707
00:36:26,650 --> 00:36:28,340
Yeah, yeah!
708
00:36:28,370 --> 00:36:30,930
Whoo!
709
00:36:34,280 --> 00:36:37,690
When points are scored,
there's singing and dancing
710
00:36:37,730 --> 00:36:39,630
and a fair amount of
what can only be called
711
00:36:39,660 --> 00:36:40,730
playful taunting.
712
00:36:40,770 --> 00:36:42,390
- Yeah!
- Whoo!
713
00:36:43,600 --> 00:36:46,600
The Bhutanese version
of "In your face!"
714
00:36:48,390 --> 00:36:50,050
Brag dance.
715
00:36:52,570 --> 00:36:54,540
- They're drinking that.
- Yeah.
716
00:36:54,570 --> 00:36:56,610
What could possibly go wrong?
717
00:37:05,450 --> 00:37:06,790
One-in-a-million shot.
718
00:37:06,830 --> 00:37:08,380
Doonk!
719
00:37:08,410 --> 00:37:10,550
I love the little kid over
there with the juice box,
720
00:37:10,590 --> 00:37:13,320
ten feet from the line of fire.
721
00:37:13,350 --> 00:37:14,490
Ah!
722
00:37:17,390 --> 00:37:18,420
Whoa, hey.
723
00:37:18,460 --> 00:37:19,630
Whoa!
724
00:37:24,950 --> 00:37:26,950
What are they screaming?
725
00:37:27,780 --> 00:37:29,300
Why?
726
00:37:30,440 --> 00:37:31,843
- So they're anti-cheerleaders.
- Yes.
727
00:37:31,850 --> 00:37:33,370
What are they saying, though?
728
00:37:33,410 --> 00:37:35,860
Oh, the short guy,
he can't hit, so...
729
00:37:35,890 --> 00:37:37,620
They calling him short?
730
00:37:37,650 --> 00:37:40,450
Yeah. All the bald head
and everything.
731
00:37:43,550 --> 00:37:45,380
♪
732
00:37:47,660 --> 00:37:50,490
♪
733
00:37:50,530 --> 00:37:52,490
Whoa!
734
00:37:55,430 --> 00:37:56,950
Whoa.
735
00:38:00,400 --> 00:38:03,710
♪
736
00:38:07,090 --> 00:38:08,960
♪
737
00:38:15,480 --> 00:38:19,070
♪
738
00:38:45,620 --> 00:38:47,890
♪
739
00:38:47,930 --> 00:38:50,030
This is very religious site.
740
00:38:50,070 --> 00:38:52,170
It's called the Burning Lake.
741
00:38:52,210 --> 00:38:54,420
Burning Lake or Burning River?
742
00:38:54,450 --> 00:38:56,900
The Burning Lake, but I
think it's actually a river.
743
00:38:59,040 --> 00:39:01,010
I see people are leaving
prayer flags
744
00:39:01,040 --> 00:39:02,430
and these things.
745
00:39:02,460 --> 00:39:05,080
These are called sasas,
these offerings.
746
00:39:05,120 --> 00:39:06,500
Sometimes they're made
out of clay,
747
00:39:06,530 --> 00:39:07,950
and sometimes
they're made out of
748
00:39:07,980 --> 00:39:09,740
actually the ashes of the dead.
749
00:39:09,780 --> 00:39:11,540
Whoa.
750
00:39:13,440 --> 00:39:14,890
Wow, that's pretty awesome.
751
00:39:14,920 --> 00:39:16,990
It's beautiful.
752
00:39:18,650 --> 00:39:20,510
A little pile of incense.
753
00:39:29,140 --> 00:39:31,450
♪
754
00:39:31,490 --> 00:39:33,590
Where do you think
this country is headed?
755
00:39:33,630 --> 00:39:35,730
Honestly, I don't know
what I believe.
756
00:39:35,770 --> 00:39:38,050
I don't know... I don't know
if it's good or bad.
757
00:39:38,080 --> 00:39:40,220
It seems like Shangri-La.
758
00:39:40,260 --> 00:39:41,423
Like, for the place
that invented
759
00:39:41,430 --> 00:39:43,430
Gross National Happiness,
they're content
760
00:39:43,470 --> 00:39:45,610
at under $2 a day.
Yes.
761
00:39:45,640 --> 00:39:47,440
I don't want my child
herding yak,
762
00:39:47,470 --> 00:39:50,780
and I don't know that a lot
of parents do, even here.
763
00:39:50,820 --> 00:39:52,440
Having a fully paved road across
764
00:39:52,480 --> 00:39:54,240
this entire country,
this country's gonna be
765
00:39:54,270 --> 00:39:55,643
a very, very different place
in five years.
766
00:39:55,650 --> 00:39:59,140
The question is, do they stay
committed to happiness
767
00:39:59,170 --> 00:40:01,170
and not to consumption?
Ooh.
768
00:40:01,210 --> 00:40:03,140
Getting off the plane
when we got here,
769
00:40:03,180 --> 00:40:05,140
there were many flat-screen TVs.
770
00:40:05,180 --> 00:40:07,560
First comes electricity,
then comes the television,
771
00:40:07,590 --> 00:40:10,840
then come pop stars
and materialism.
772
00:40:10,870 --> 00:40:12,600
But maybe that's arrogant.
Maybe that's just,
773
00:40:12,630 --> 00:40:15,530
you know, easy for me to say.
I don't know.
774
00:40:15,570 --> 00:40:16,950
A lot of the people
we talked to,
775
00:40:16,980 --> 00:40:18,873
there's a tremendous amount
of respect of what they have.
776
00:40:18,880 --> 00:40:21,780
We're finally seeing
the effects of climate change
777
00:40:21,810 --> 00:40:23,610
in a terrifying way,
778
00:40:23,640 --> 00:40:25,013
which they're all
gonna be able to witness
779
00:40:25,020 --> 00:40:26,610
on their flat-screen TVs.
780
00:40:26,650 --> 00:40:28,860
You know, I think people
are gonna really hold on
781
00:40:28,890 --> 00:40:30,170
to treasures like this.
782
00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:31,790
I know it's beautiful.
783
00:40:31,820 --> 00:40:34,660
I'm glad it hasn't been
[...] up yet by the world.
784
00:40:34,690 --> 00:40:35,190
♪
785
00:40:43,180 --> 00:40:43,680
♪
786
00:40:51,740 --> 00:40:52,240
♪
787
00:41:01,200 --> 00:41:01,700
♪
788
00:41:07,830 --> 00:41:08,970
♪ Let's go
789
00:41:12,070 --> 00:41:12,570
♪
790
00:41:27,220 --> 00:41:28,570
♪
791
00:41:32,200 --> 00:41:32,700
♪
792
00:41:47,690 --> 00:41:49,560
You're supposed
to put them somewhere
793
00:41:49,590 --> 00:41:52,080
where they'll last
for a while, and, uh...
794
00:41:52,110 --> 00:41:53,770
make a prayer.
795
00:41:53,800 --> 00:41:54,300
♪
57391
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