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The thundering hooves
of many horses,
2
00:00:11,252 --> 00:00:14,428
the sound of a thousand
beer cans popping open...
3
00:00:14,462 --> 00:00:16,361
Ah!
4
00:00:16,395 --> 00:00:19,157
And music... always music.
5
00:00:23,540 --> 00:00:26,336
♪
6
00:00:30,789 --> 00:00:35,207
Be afraid.
Be very afraid.
7
00:00:35,242 --> 00:00:36,450
No, really.
8
00:00:36,484 --> 00:00:38,210
Whoo!
9
00:00:38,245 --> 00:00:40,764
Mardi Gras!
10
00:00:40,799 --> 00:00:43,629
It's the Mardi Gras!
11
00:00:48,738 --> 00:00:50,740
♪ I took a walk
through this ♪
12
00:00:50,774 --> 00:00:53,881
♪ Beautiful world
13
00:00:53,915 --> 00:00:59,128
♪ Felt the cool rain
on my shoulder ♪
14
00:00:59,162 --> 00:01:02,441
♪ Found something good
in this ♪
15
00:01:02,476 --> 00:01:05,203
♪ Beautiful world
16
00:01:05,237 --> 00:01:11,243
♪ I felt the rain
getting colder ♪
17
00:01:11,278 --> 00:01:14,419
- ♪ La, la
- ♪ Sha la, la, la, la
18
00:01:14,453 --> 00:01:16,283
♪ Sha la, la, la, la
19
00:01:16,317 --> 00:01:20,425
- ♪ Sha la, la, la
- ♪ Sha la, la, la, la
20
00:01:20,459 --> 00:01:25,533
♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la
21
00:01:36,337 --> 00:01:36,837
♪
22
00:01:42,171 --> 00:01:44,863
There are parts of America
that are special,
23
00:01:44,897 --> 00:01:47,590
unique, unlike anywhere else,
24
00:01:47,624 --> 00:01:48,901
cultures all their own...
25
00:01:48,936 --> 00:01:53,458
Kept close, much loved,
but largely misunderstood.
26
00:01:57,393 --> 00:01:59,947
The vast patchwork
of saltwater marshes,
27
00:01:59,981 --> 00:02:02,950
bayous, and prairie land
that make up Cajun Country
28
00:02:02,984 --> 00:02:05,815
is one of those places.
29
00:02:05,849 --> 00:02:06,988
While the rest of the USA
30
00:02:07,023 --> 00:02:09,267
got stitched together
by superhighways,
31
00:02:09,301 --> 00:02:11,510
southwestern Louisiana remained
32
00:02:11,545 --> 00:02:14,341
relatively isolated.
33
00:02:14,375 --> 00:02:17,309
I-10 wasn't completed
until the 1970s,
34
00:02:17,344 --> 00:02:19,173
finally connecting
this part of the state
35
00:02:19,208 --> 00:02:22,349
to New Orleans, Houston,
and the rest of the nation.
36
00:02:22,383 --> 00:02:24,178
With that came
chain restaurants,
37
00:02:24,213 --> 00:02:27,871
drive-throughs,
and strip malls, but fear not.
38
00:02:27,906 --> 00:02:30,495
It's still magnificently weird.
39
00:02:39,538 --> 00:02:42,472
Take, for example,
Cajun Mardi Gras.
40
00:02:42,507 --> 00:02:45,199
Ordinarily, I loathe
the idea of Mardi Gras.
41
00:02:45,234 --> 00:02:46,994
Any kind of group celebration,
42
00:02:47,028 --> 00:02:48,996
anything festive
involving dancing
43
00:02:49,030 --> 00:02:51,999
fills me with
self-conscious dread.
44
00:02:52,033 --> 00:02:53,725
Thousands of happy drunks
45
00:02:53,759 --> 00:02:55,244
crowded into the French Quarter,
46
00:02:55,278 --> 00:02:57,660
for instance... not for me.
47
00:02:57,694 --> 00:03:01,388
But Cajun Mardi Gras
is another thing entirely...
48
00:03:01,422 --> 00:03:03,666
Closer to the ancient
French tradition,
49
00:03:03,700 --> 00:03:05,909
vaguely more dangerous.
50
00:03:05,944 --> 00:03:09,258
Downright medieval.
51
00:03:09,292 --> 00:03:11,536
Cajuns do things their way...
52
00:03:11,570 --> 00:03:14,021
Always have, always will.
53
00:03:14,055 --> 00:03:15,885
Whether it's hanging on
to the French language
54
00:03:15,919 --> 00:03:17,921
of their ancestors, their music,
55
00:03:17,956 --> 00:03:20,303
traditions, or food,
56
00:03:20,338 --> 00:03:24,928
Cajuns fiercely
keep it all vibrantly alive.
57
00:03:27,068 --> 00:03:30,382
Boudin is a ubiquitous
sausage of Cajun Country,
58
00:03:30,417 --> 00:03:32,867
and judging by the line
up at the drive through,
59
00:03:32,902 --> 00:03:35,974
Billy's Boudin is
pretty damn popular.
60
00:03:38,321 --> 00:03:40,944
So this is a boudin ball
61
00:03:40,979 --> 00:03:42,601
stuffed with pepper jack cheese,
62
00:03:42,636 --> 00:03:46,985
which I believe Billy's is
responsible for its invention.
63
00:03:47,019 --> 00:03:49,401
What's not to like?
Ground-up sausage
64
00:03:49,436 --> 00:03:52,956
and molted cheese,
battered and fried?
65
00:03:52,991 --> 00:03:55,752
Who's gonna hate that?
No one.
66
00:03:55,787 --> 00:03:56,960
In addition to boudin,
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00:03:56,995 --> 00:03:59,273
breakfast around here
wouldn't be complete
68
00:03:59,308 --> 00:04:03,967
without some cracklins,
and of course, a cold beer.
69
00:04:04,002 --> 00:04:06,004
My father's
first language is French.
70
00:04:06,038 --> 00:04:08,317
I mean, as a kid, for him,
71
00:04:08,351 --> 00:04:11,665
he was whipped at school
for speaking French.
72
00:04:11,699 --> 00:04:14,461
Yeah, I mean, look,
is it fair to say that
73
00:04:14,495 --> 00:04:16,428
at most points in its history,
74
00:04:16,463 --> 00:04:20,294
the Cajuns have been,
if not, a despised minority...
75
00:04:20,329 --> 00:04:23,987
An aggressively
marginalized minority.
76
00:04:24,022 --> 00:04:27,819
Our depiction stops at
swamp scenes and alligators,
77
00:04:27,853 --> 00:04:29,579
and it's so much more
than that...
78
00:04:29,614 --> 00:04:31,781
Not just because of the food,
not just because of the music,
79
00:04:31,788 --> 00:04:33,411
because of the way of life,
you know?
80
00:04:33,445 --> 00:04:37,104
Especially Acadiana...
This is the most European
81
00:04:37,138 --> 00:04:41,004
part of America, in my opinion.
82
00:04:41,039 --> 00:04:42,627
So we're gonna
eat well this week?
83
00:04:42,661 --> 00:04:46,493
Yeah, a lot of good food,
a lot of house parties.
84
00:04:46,527 --> 00:04:49,496
- Excited about Mardi Gras?
- Mm.
85
00:04:49,530 --> 00:04:51,360
My first.
Never been to one.
86
00:04:51,394 --> 00:04:52,982
Here, it's a
whole different thing.
87
00:04:53,016 --> 00:04:55,364
I mean,
the major difference is that,
88
00:04:55,398 --> 00:04:58,332
here, you're the event.
89
00:04:58,367 --> 00:05:00,817
If you're attending Mardi Gras,
if you're running Mardi Gras,
90
00:05:00,852 --> 00:05:02,336
you are part of it.
91
00:05:02,371 --> 00:05:03,682
Right.
92
00:05:03,717 --> 00:05:06,513
Like,
it's bigger than Christmas.
93
00:05:06,547 --> 00:05:10,379
Toby Rodriguez is about
as Cajun as you get.
94
00:05:10,413 --> 00:05:12,001
I met him nearly a decade ago
95
00:05:12,035 --> 00:05:15,384
when I came here
for a boucherie.
96
00:05:15,418 --> 00:05:18,490
Back then,
Toby and everybody else said,
97
00:05:18,525 --> 00:05:20,354
"You got to come back
for our Mardi Gras."
98
00:05:20,389 --> 00:05:21,907
- Wanna give me a hand?
- Yeah.
99
00:05:21,942 --> 00:05:24,531
"We do Mardi Gras right."
100
00:05:24,565 --> 00:05:26,395
And so, here I am.
101
00:05:26,429 --> 00:05:27,844
It's the week before,
102
00:05:27,879 --> 00:05:30,537
and there's
anticipation in the air.
103
00:05:30,571 --> 00:05:33,540
All over Acadiana,
scenes like this unfold.
104
00:05:33,574 --> 00:05:36,370
Out in the yard
with friends and family,
105
00:05:36,405 --> 00:05:39,408
kids playing, music, dancing,
106
00:05:39,442 --> 00:05:42,445
beer, good Catholic whiskey,
107
00:05:42,480 --> 00:05:44,758
gumbo cooking in a big pot.
108
00:05:47,795 --> 00:05:48,295
♪
109
00:06:08,022 --> 00:06:09,541
Mardi Gras!
110
00:06:12,130 --> 00:06:13,580
Welcome back.
How you doing?
111
00:06:13,614 --> 00:06:15,720
Really good.
Good to see you both again.
112
00:06:15,754 --> 00:06:17,515
- Good to see you too.
- Thanks.
113
00:06:17,549 --> 00:06:21,104
You might call the
Savoy family Cajun royalty.
114
00:06:21,139 --> 00:06:22,589
I know them from my last visit,
115
00:06:22,623 --> 00:06:24,522
and it's good to see them again.
116
00:06:24,556 --> 00:06:26,627
Marc Savoy was
born and raised here
117
00:06:26,662 --> 00:06:29,492
in the small prairie town
of Eunice.
118
00:06:29,527 --> 00:06:32,599
Together with his wife Ann
and sons Joel and Wilson,
119
00:06:32,633 --> 00:06:35,464
they make up the
Savoy family band.
120
00:06:35,498 --> 00:06:37,614
They've all been playing music
since they were children,
121
00:06:37,638 --> 00:06:40,434
and share a devotion...
Dedication...
122
00:06:40,469 --> 00:06:42,056
To Cajun culture.
123
00:06:42,091 --> 00:06:44,783
So how far does
the family go back here?
124
00:06:44,818 --> 00:06:46,129
Marc, here's the question.
125
00:06:46,164 --> 00:06:47,588
How far does your family
go back here?
126
00:06:47,614 --> 00:06:50,064
Well, I think back
to the American Revolution
127
00:06:50,099 --> 00:06:51,652
because the land that we live on
128
00:06:51,687 --> 00:06:54,448
was ceded to
one of our ancestors,
129
00:06:54,483 --> 00:06:58,176
and part of that land
is still in our family today.
130
00:06:58,210 --> 00:07:00,730
How the French-Acadian
pioneers got here
131
00:07:00,765 --> 00:07:05,183
and ended up becoming Cajun
is a long story.
132
00:07:05,217 --> 00:07:07,634
Forcibly deported
by the Protestant British
133
00:07:07,668 --> 00:07:09,463
from their homeland
in Nova Scotia,
134
00:07:09,498 --> 00:07:11,741
the Acadians became refugees,
135
00:07:11,776 --> 00:07:14,468
eventually settling deep
in the mosquito-infested
136
00:07:14,503 --> 00:07:17,160
swamps and flatlands
of Louisiana...
137
00:07:17,195 --> 00:07:20,474
A place nobody else
wanted at the time.
138
00:07:20,509 --> 00:07:22,959
Over the years,
the settlers absorbed,
139
00:07:22,994 --> 00:07:25,168
to varying degrees,
other cultures...
140
00:07:25,203 --> 00:07:28,171
Irish, Spanish, German,
Native American,
141
00:07:28,206 --> 00:07:29,966
and West African, among others,
142
00:07:30,001 --> 00:07:34,488
mutating into a distinctive
culture unlike any other.
143
00:07:34,523 --> 00:07:36,973
So how long has the
family been playing music?
144
00:07:37,008 --> 00:07:38,527
Well,
my grandfather was a fiddler,
145
00:07:38,561 --> 00:07:41,495
but I don't know...
I don't know more than that.
146
00:07:41,530 --> 00:07:43,670
- I have that fiddle.
- Yeah.
147
00:07:43,704 --> 00:07:45,844
Your grandfather's fiddle,
and your uncle's fiddle.
148
00:07:45,879 --> 00:07:47,225
Yeah,
which was your great uncle.
149
00:07:47,259 --> 00:07:50,021
Living in the same case
here in the house.
150
00:07:50,055 --> 00:07:52,541
So what are you guys
doing for Mardi Gras?
151
00:07:52,575 --> 00:07:53,990
- Running.
- Running.
152
00:07:54,025 --> 00:07:56,234
- You ready?
- Uh, I believe I am.
153
00:07:56,268 --> 00:07:59,202
- What are you doing?
- He's accounting.
154
00:07:59,237 --> 00:08:01,204
- What are you doing?
- I'm running Mardi Gras.
155
00:08:01,239 --> 00:08:03,552
- What are you doing?
- I'm running Mardi Gras,
156
00:08:03,586 --> 00:08:04,691
right here.
157
00:08:04,725 --> 00:08:06,037
But, you know, in the old days,
158
00:08:06,071 --> 00:08:07,659
it was just people walking.
159
00:08:07,694 --> 00:08:09,592
It wasn't... it's become insane.
160
00:08:09,627 --> 00:08:11,214
It's become insane,
more and more insane.
161
00:08:11,249 --> 00:08:12,761
And every year,
somebody dies in Eunice.
162
00:08:12,768 --> 00:08:15,149
Every single year, there's
one death at the Mardi Gras.
163
00:08:15,184 --> 00:08:16,530
Every year.
But, you know,
164
00:08:16,565 --> 00:08:18,532
you gotta stay away
from the horse's feet.
165
00:08:18,567 --> 00:08:20,569
You know,
like a lot of horse injuries.
166
00:08:20,603 --> 00:08:22,191
Like, their horses...
Right.
167
00:08:22,225 --> 00:08:23,910
Some horses will kick you
in the head or something.
168
00:08:23,917 --> 00:08:25,574
Oh, okay.
169
00:08:25,608 --> 00:08:26,913
I mean, there's a lot
of really good reasons
170
00:08:26,920 --> 00:08:28,577
that you're doing
all these things.
171
00:08:28,611 --> 00:08:30,855
I mean, it's the end of winter,
172
00:08:30,889 --> 00:08:32,719
people are out of food...
173
00:08:32,753 --> 00:08:35,756
- And it's right before Lent.
- It's the last year.
174
00:08:35,791 --> 00:08:37,724
Yeah, this is the last...
175
00:08:37,758 --> 00:08:39,933
You gotta stop everything
for a good while.
176
00:08:39,967 --> 00:08:41,831
Let's just misbehave
before Lent.
177
00:08:41,866 --> 00:08:43,592
And then the next day,
they go to church
178
00:08:43,626 --> 00:08:45,628
and get a X on their forehead.
179
00:08:45,663 --> 00:08:47,112
So you go in,
you got a black eye,
180
00:08:47,147 --> 00:08:49,218
your shoulder's out of its
socket, and you get the...
181
00:08:49,252 --> 00:08:51,565
You get the cross at church.
182
00:08:51,600 --> 00:08:53,284
At the bayou church,
praying, getting the ashes.
183
00:08:53,291 --> 00:08:54,596
"I'm sorry for everything
I did." "Okay."
184
00:08:54,603 --> 00:08:57,122
"Sorry for everything
I did yesterday."
185
00:09:00,160 --> 00:09:00,660
♪
186
00:09:22,872 --> 00:09:25,772
"Fais do-do,"
187
00:09:25,806 --> 00:09:28,637
translated means, "go to sleep,"
188
00:09:28,671 --> 00:09:31,778
something a mother would say
to a crying baby.
189
00:09:31,812 --> 00:09:34,643
This soothing phrase became,
over time,
190
00:09:34,677 --> 00:09:37,266
something else entirely.
191
00:09:38,923 --> 00:09:41,339
- What the hell?
- Finish that.
192
00:09:41,373 --> 00:09:42,927
- I gotta drive.
- Mardi Gras.
193
00:09:42,961 --> 00:09:44,238
Mardi...
194
00:09:44,273 --> 00:09:47,276
Apparently mom was just
lulling junior to sleep
195
00:09:47,310 --> 00:09:49,243
so she could go party.
196
00:09:49,278 --> 00:09:50,831
A warm up for Mardi Gras,
197
00:09:50,866 --> 00:09:53,178
or simply a continuation
of what seems like
198
00:09:53,213 --> 00:09:56,009
an endless pre-game
of drinking, eating,
199
00:09:56,043 --> 00:09:59,840
music, dancing, and celebration.
200
00:10:06,122 --> 00:10:08,021
♪
201
00:10:08,055 --> 00:10:10,437
Toby, a contractor and
butcher and restaurateur
202
00:10:10,471 --> 00:10:14,441
jack of all trades, is the
host of this epic fais do-do.
203
00:10:14,475 --> 00:10:18,376
And he's invited 170 or so
of his closest friends...
204
00:10:18,410 --> 00:10:20,378
Hey!
205
00:10:20,412 --> 00:10:23,277
♪
206
00:10:23,312 --> 00:10:24,624
Everybody cooks.
207
00:10:24,658 --> 00:10:27,972
Men, women... even kids
appear to have a specialty.
208
00:10:29,767 --> 00:10:31,147
Weather be damned.
209
00:10:31,182 --> 00:10:34,357
We came to party,
and party we shall.
210
00:10:34,392 --> 00:10:37,015
♪
211
00:10:37,050 --> 00:10:39,708
Ho!
212
00:10:39,742 --> 00:10:42,849
Food has always tied
communities here together.
213
00:10:42,883 --> 00:10:45,714
Cajuns trace the roots
of their culture and cuisine
214
00:10:45,748 --> 00:10:48,820
to a particularly brutal
diaspora followed by
215
00:10:48,855 --> 00:10:50,684
a steep learning curve
as they adapted
216
00:10:50,719 --> 00:10:53,825
to the harsh environment
of rural Louisiana.
217
00:10:53,860 --> 00:10:55,309
Their culinary traditions
218
00:10:55,344 --> 00:10:58,002
are a direct reflection
of those days.
219
00:10:58,036 --> 00:11:00,349
Ho-ho.
220
00:11:00,383 --> 00:11:01,488
Mardi Gras, everybody!
221
00:11:01,522 --> 00:11:03,007
This is Saturday, right?
222
00:11:03,041 --> 00:11:05,319
So we are prepping
for Mardi Gras.
223
00:11:05,354 --> 00:11:07,494
So these people have
been drunk for how long?
224
00:11:07,528 --> 00:11:10,980
- About a week, yeah.
- Uh-huh.
225
00:11:11,015 --> 00:11:13,500
Uh, so what part of...
Where am I?
226
00:11:13,534 --> 00:11:16,503
Man, you're in the middle
of Grand Coteau, Louisiana.
227
00:11:16,537 --> 00:11:18,747
Right, like,
this is not the bayou.
228
00:11:18,781 --> 00:11:20,714
This is the prairie.
Oh, you're in the prairie.
229
00:11:20,749 --> 00:11:22,267
That's what the
Grand Coteau is...
230
00:11:22,302 --> 00:11:23,855
Big hill.
Right.
231
00:11:23,890 --> 00:11:25,091
So, that's like,
right now, where we're at...
232
00:11:25,098 --> 00:11:27,265
You're actually at one of the
highest points in Louisiana,
233
00:11:27,272 --> 00:11:28,998
if you can believe that.
234
00:11:29,033 --> 00:11:31,414
It's kinda scary, right?
Yeah, 8 feet elevation.
235
00:11:31,449 --> 00:11:34,003
Yeah, like, if you take
a Cajun to the mountains,
236
00:11:34,038 --> 00:11:37,041
they might get a little woozy.
237
00:11:37,075 --> 00:11:39,388
No party around here
would be complete
238
00:11:39,422 --> 00:11:41,839
without a crawfish boil.
239
00:11:41,873 --> 00:11:44,876
All right,
we fire up the reactor.
240
00:11:46,464 --> 00:11:48,190
Oh, yeah.
241
00:11:48,224 --> 00:11:52,539
- I hope you're ready.
- I'm ready.
242
00:11:52,573 --> 00:11:54,541
I like this... this thing.
243
00:11:54,575 --> 00:11:57,889
Oh, man,
this is my baby right here.
244
00:11:57,924 --> 00:11:59,809
Now, what's the appropriate
term for a crawfish?
245
00:11:59,822 --> 00:12:01,375
Is it crawfish?
Crawdad? Mudbug?
246
00:12:01,410 --> 00:12:02,894
We don't... don't say crawdads.
247
00:12:02,929 --> 00:12:04,061
Here, down here, it's crawfish.
248
00:12:04,068 --> 00:12:06,035
All right.
No other term is acceptable?
249
00:12:06,070 --> 00:12:07,927
I mean, you can call them
little mudbugs if you want,
250
00:12:07,934 --> 00:12:10,246
but we like to just
call them by what they are...
251
00:12:10,281 --> 00:12:11,765
Crawfish.
252
00:12:11,800 --> 00:12:12,897
Okay, so écrevisse
would not be a...
253
00:12:12,904 --> 00:12:14,830
Yeah, écrevisse, yeah,
that's French for crawfish.
254
00:12:14,837 --> 00:12:15,953
Oh, right.
That'll work too?
255
00:12:15,976 --> 00:12:18,910
Yeah, that's good.
Yeah.
256
00:12:18,945 --> 00:12:21,810
Oh, yeah.
257
00:12:21,844 --> 00:12:23,881
Hoo, that's good.
258
00:12:23,915 --> 00:12:25,952
Go for it, man.
259
00:12:25,986 --> 00:12:27,574
And the kids don't need
much convincing.
260
00:12:27,608 --> 00:12:29,258
Oh, they love them,
that's because it's the
261
00:12:29,265 --> 00:12:32,303
first crawfish
of the season for us.
262
00:12:37,308 --> 00:12:38,965
Aww, man, that's pretty.
263
00:12:38,999 --> 00:12:41,312
What is with that
super dark sauce, man?
264
00:12:41,346 --> 00:12:44,142
Yeah, it's, like,
parsnips and celery roots.
265
00:12:44,177 --> 00:12:46,248
Ah, okay.
I get it.
266
00:12:46,282 --> 00:12:49,803
Aw, that's delicious.
267
00:12:51,494 --> 00:12:55,947
What are these guys doing
out there standing in the rain?
268
00:12:57,638 --> 00:13:00,814
And this sounds like
a good idea when drinking...
269
00:13:00,849 --> 00:13:05,094
A rousing game of Stump,
or stumping nails.
270
00:13:05,129 --> 00:13:07,614
Throw a hammer in the air
and drive it down hard,
271
00:13:07,648 --> 00:13:09,927
hopefully onto a nail
rather than a hand
272
00:13:09,961 --> 00:13:13,862
or other extremity,
preferably in the rain.
273
00:13:13,896 --> 00:13:15,235
How dumb do you feel
if you end up at a hospital
274
00:13:15,242 --> 00:13:17,624
with that thing sunk
into your, like, cheek?
275
00:13:17,658 --> 00:13:19,971
- No, that's a...
- Only twice.
276
00:13:20,006 --> 00:13:21,524
Has this happened?
"Only twice?"
277
00:13:21,559 --> 00:13:22,836
Okay, good.
278
00:13:22,871 --> 00:13:24,838
So, like... I like my odds.
279
00:13:24,873 --> 00:13:26,633
Swing it down.
280
00:13:26,667 --> 00:13:28,531
- Yes.
- There you go.
281
00:13:30,223 --> 00:13:32,846
- You got a spark.
- Got a spark.
282
00:13:32,881 --> 00:13:35,849
First shot, first killing.
283
00:13:37,989 --> 00:13:40,992
As night falls,
it's time for more food.
284
00:13:41,027 --> 00:13:42,166
Hot pot.
Hot pot.
285
00:13:42,200 --> 00:13:43,857
I sit down with
Toby and his friends,
286
00:13:43,892 --> 00:13:46,895
Lucius, Megan, and Joleen.
287
00:13:46,929 --> 00:13:49,967
That's catfish coubion.
Rice first, Tony.
288
00:13:50,001 --> 00:13:51,658
Perfect rice.
289
00:13:51,692 --> 00:13:52,970
That's a shrimp stew down there?
290
00:13:53,004 --> 00:13:55,041
- That's shrimp stew.
- What are those?
291
00:13:55,075 --> 00:13:56,490
Those hard-boiled egg?
Yeah.
292
00:13:56,525 --> 00:13:59,148
I gotta ask though,
before I forget.
293
00:13:59,183 --> 00:14:00,909
Now, Mardi Gras's
coming up Tuesday.
294
00:14:00,943 --> 00:14:02,393
- Yeah.
- Yes.
295
00:14:02,427 --> 00:14:05,879
Now, I mean, I've sorta
noticed it's a guy thing.
296
00:14:05,914 --> 00:14:08,433
Most runs, we cannot run...
Women cannot run.
297
00:14:08,468 --> 00:14:11,229
It is very much a boys club.
It always has been.
298
00:14:11,264 --> 00:14:13,680
Do you support this
brutal, fascist regime?
299
00:14:13,714 --> 00:14:17,097
Oh, no, the run that
I Capitan is co-ed.
300
00:14:17,132 --> 00:14:18,927
But that's the exception,
not the rule.
301
00:14:18,961 --> 00:14:20,963
- It is the exception... huge.
- Yeah.
302
00:14:20,998 --> 00:14:22,095
We had a female
the other day go,
303
00:14:22,102 --> 00:14:24,063
"I'm gonna run Mamou."
And I'm like, "No, you're not.
304
00:14:24,070 --> 00:14:25,899
Don't do it.
They don't accept it."
305
00:14:25,934 --> 00:14:28,902
So what'd happen
if you would've showed up?
306
00:14:28,937 --> 00:14:30,179
You get chased off.
307
00:14:30,214 --> 00:14:32,112
- Chased off?
- Yeah.
308
00:14:32,147 --> 00:14:33,942
They're segregated
as far as the sexes,
309
00:14:33,976 --> 00:14:35,288
but there are
two different runs.
310
00:14:35,322 --> 00:14:37,359
Yeah, but that's like
Saudi Arabia, dude.
311
00:14:37,393 --> 00:14:38,705
I know.
312
00:14:38,739 --> 00:14:40,044
Yeah, no,
it's backwards here, I mean...
313
00:14:40,051 --> 00:14:41,466
It's very backwards, like,
314
00:14:41,501 --> 00:14:43,710
women don't have a place
in a run of Mardi Gras.
315
00:14:45,401 --> 00:14:46,948
Now, we need y'all
to come in a little bit
316
00:14:46,955 --> 00:14:49,026
'cause we're kinda getting cold.
317
00:14:49,060 --> 00:14:51,891
And we need y'alls warmth
up in this mud right here.
318
00:15:01,245 --> 00:15:01,745
♪
319
00:15:38,282 --> 00:15:38,782
♪
320
00:15:48,050 --> 00:15:51,467
♪ Well, take them down,
come on ♪
321
00:15:54,505 --> 00:15:55,005
♪
322
00:16:17,183 --> 00:16:17,683
♪
323
00:16:32,060 --> 00:16:32,560
♪
324
00:17:01,158 --> 00:17:03,091
Ash Wednesday, man.
325
00:17:03,125 --> 00:17:05,576
That's the beginning of Lent.
326
00:17:05,610 --> 00:17:08,165
Try to get all the devil out.
327
00:17:08,199 --> 00:17:13,239
And I, you know, I drink
a little whiskey every night.
328
00:17:13,273 --> 00:17:15,103
So you're buzzing fly high,
329
00:17:15,137 --> 00:17:19,417
but you gotta
come down to drink.
330
00:17:19,452 --> 00:17:22,075
What is Creole and what is Cajun
331
00:17:22,110 --> 00:17:24,077
are increasingly
difficult distinctions
332
00:17:24,112 --> 00:17:26,114
in this day of commercialization
333
00:17:26,148 --> 00:17:28,150
and appropriation.
334
00:17:28,185 --> 00:17:30,152
Anything delicious and unique
335
00:17:30,187 --> 00:17:31,809
is gonna end up slapped on a bag
336
00:17:31,843 --> 00:17:35,433
in front of the words,
"potato chips."
337
00:17:35,468 --> 00:17:37,608
Creole means...
Or has come to mean...
338
00:17:37,642 --> 00:17:41,232
A mixture of languages,
peoples, and cultures.
339
00:17:41,267 --> 00:17:43,579
In Louisiana, though,
it's usually used
340
00:17:43,614 --> 00:17:45,616
to describe members
of the African-American
341
00:17:45,650 --> 00:17:48,653
or mixed race
French-speaking community.
342
00:17:48,688 --> 00:17:50,207
Why do you think
it's important that
343
00:17:50,241 --> 00:17:52,278
people still sing
in French and...
344
00:17:52,312 --> 00:17:53,486
To me...
345
00:17:53,520 --> 00:17:55,170
Keep that language...
That dialect... alive?
346
00:17:55,177 --> 00:17:56,730
That's what makes it Zydeco.
347
00:17:56,765 --> 00:18:00,251
Zydeco's always been influenced
by mainstream music,
348
00:18:00,286 --> 00:18:03,461
but it started as French music,
as Creole music.
349
00:18:03,496 --> 00:18:06,499
And you totally remove that
from the music...
350
00:18:06,533 --> 00:18:08,777
A lot of times it's just
rap with an accordion,
351
00:18:08,811 --> 00:18:10,330
or rock and roll
with an accordion.
352
00:18:10,365 --> 00:18:11,918
You still have the
French-y stuff.
353
00:18:11,952 --> 00:18:13,022
I tell you what.
354
00:18:13,057 --> 00:18:15,749
I can call mama... she's 85...
Right now on the phone.
355
00:18:15,784 --> 00:18:17,503
And she talk... one time
talked to me in French.
356
00:18:17,510 --> 00:18:19,270
My grandma couldn't speak
nothing else.
357
00:18:19,305 --> 00:18:20,651
Right.
358
00:18:20,685 --> 00:18:23,654
I'm having lunch today with
historian and radio DJ,
359
00:18:23,688 --> 00:18:25,345
Herman Fuselier.
360
00:18:25,380 --> 00:18:27,589
Creole cowboy Dave Laemmle,
361
00:18:27,623 --> 00:18:29,660
and musically-inclined
business owner,
362
00:18:29,694 --> 00:18:32,214
Sid Williams.
363
00:18:32,249 --> 00:18:35,286
This spot is
Laura's plate lunch Two,
364
00:18:35,321 --> 00:18:36,529
popular all the time,
365
00:18:36,563 --> 00:18:39,670
but particularly busy
on Sundays after church.
366
00:18:39,704 --> 00:18:43,191
Rice and gravy,
fried fish, ribs,
367
00:18:43,225 --> 00:18:45,296
and smothered,
stuffed turkey wings,
368
00:18:45,331 --> 00:18:49,335
which I am all over
like a heat-seeking missile.
369
00:18:49,369 --> 00:18:52,200
Damn.
That looks serious.
370
00:18:52,234 --> 00:18:54,857
Mm-hmm.
371
00:18:54,892 --> 00:18:57,377
When you say Louisiana,
they think of Cajun.
372
00:18:57,412 --> 00:18:59,310
Cajun is a big part
of Louisiana,
373
00:18:59,345 --> 00:19:02,520
but Creole is a big part
of Louisiana too, you know.
374
00:19:02,555 --> 00:19:04,281
Used to be native to Louisiana.
375
00:19:04,315 --> 00:19:05,834
Yeah.
376
00:19:05,868 --> 00:19:07,638
That was the original
meaning, as I had said.
377
00:19:07,663 --> 00:19:10,735
It still has
hundreds of definitions.
378
00:19:10,770 --> 00:19:14,394
But for us,
it's descendants of slaves
379
00:19:14,429 --> 00:19:15,913
and free people of color,
380
00:19:15,947 --> 00:19:18,812
and it deals with the food and
the music.
381
00:19:18,847 --> 00:19:21,367
And the Catholic church
is a big part of it too.
382
00:19:21,401 --> 00:19:24,197
But yeah, trail rides
and horseback riding
383
00:19:24,232 --> 00:19:26,372
is just a way of Louisiana now.
384
00:19:26,406 --> 00:19:28,822
You know, it's been going on
for so long and...
385
00:19:28,857 --> 00:19:30,652
Music was always part of it,
386
00:19:30,686 --> 00:19:32,688
but the music
got to be more of it,
387
00:19:32,723 --> 00:19:35,312
and then slowly but surely
became a party where,
388
00:19:35,346 --> 00:19:36,727
you know,
kinda this social scene.
389
00:19:36,761 --> 00:19:38,223
It's a lot of pieces
coming together.
390
00:19:38,246 --> 00:19:41,663
You got food, horses, and music.
391
00:19:44,907 --> 00:19:45,407
♪
392
00:19:59,267 --> 00:20:01,372
Trail rides go back a long way.
393
00:20:01,407 --> 00:20:04,237
They happen all year,
but are also the way
394
00:20:04,272 --> 00:20:06,619
Creoles celebrate
Mardi Gras around here...
395
00:20:06,653 --> 00:20:11,037
Kind of a moving
tailgate party and barbecue.
396
00:20:11,071 --> 00:20:12,556
Interestingly...
397
00:20:12,590 --> 00:20:15,283
And I almost wanna dig up John
Wayne just to tell him this...
398
00:20:15,317 --> 00:20:19,252
Creoles are wildly believed to
be the first American cowboys,
399
00:20:19,287 --> 00:20:22,600
herding cattle in the plains
and bayous of Louisiana
400
00:20:22,635 --> 00:20:24,878
long before white dudes
and assless chaps
401
00:20:24,913 --> 00:20:26,294
started showing up in the west.
402
00:20:26,328 --> 00:20:30,367
In fact, Zydeco music was
born out of cowboy culture...
403
00:20:30,401 --> 00:20:32,921
The rhythm of the washboard
mimicking the trot
404
00:20:32,955 --> 00:20:34,474
of a horse on the trail.
405
00:20:34,509 --> 00:20:37,788
♪
406
00:20:37,822 --> 00:20:39,852
We don't wanna lose our
culture... what we have here...
407
00:20:39,859 --> 00:20:42,275
Because this is a true thing
that goes on every weekend,
408
00:20:42,310 --> 00:20:45,002
and I think the world
need to see it, you know?
409
00:20:45,036 --> 00:20:48,005
Yeah, we are Creole
black guys riding horses,
410
00:20:48,039 --> 00:20:51,388
wearing cowboy hats,
dancing to Zydeco music...
411
00:20:51,422 --> 00:20:53,666
- Playing accordions.
- And playing the accordion.
412
00:20:53,700 --> 00:20:55,771
At one time,
maybe it wasn't cool,
413
00:20:55,806 --> 00:20:58,809
but now, if you being country,
414
00:20:58,843 --> 00:21:01,639
and trail riding,
and listening to Zydeco music,
415
00:21:01,674 --> 00:21:04,297
you cool.
416
00:21:04,332 --> 00:21:04,832
♪
417
00:21:33,361 --> 00:21:33,861
♪
418
00:21:44,889 --> 00:21:46,477
You see a pig...
419
00:21:46,512 --> 00:21:50,343
If you see a pig,
shoot that motherfucker.
420
00:21:53,381 --> 00:21:53,881
♪
421
00:21:57,488 --> 00:21:59,490
Hunting in Louisiana marshland
422
00:21:59,525 --> 00:22:00,898
has been a way of life
for the Acadians
423
00:22:00,905 --> 00:22:05,531
since they first arrived here
hundreds of years ago.
424
00:22:05,565 --> 00:22:08,499
Back then, however, they
didn't have these things:
425
00:22:08,534 --> 00:22:11,537
a big fan
and a whole lot of horsepower.
426
00:22:14,781 --> 00:22:18,164
Also didn't have an
infestation of wild pigs,
427
00:22:18,198 --> 00:22:19,924
an evasive,
but delicious species
428
00:22:19,959 --> 00:22:23,514
that are causing big problems
for the local ecosystem.
429
00:22:23,549 --> 00:22:24,715
They're supposed to be all over,
430
00:22:24,722 --> 00:22:27,587
like shooting fish
in a barrel, I'm told.
431
00:22:32,420 --> 00:22:34,491
I'm tagging along
with the Millers.
432
00:22:34,525 --> 00:22:37,425
Uncle Bruno is the
best cook in the family.
433
00:22:37,459 --> 00:22:40,876
His nephew, Jay,
a stone-cold killer.
434
00:22:40,911 --> 00:22:43,016
You know, there's a
technique to holding your beer.
435
00:22:43,051 --> 00:22:46,123
Like, shit like this?
Look.
436
00:22:46,157 --> 00:22:48,401
That's the technique.
437
00:22:48,436 --> 00:22:48,936
♪
438
00:22:54,511 --> 00:22:56,616
Everywhere there's a tree
hanging over like that,
439
00:22:56,651 --> 00:23:01,069
that little area... it just
seems like I can sense...
440
00:23:01,103 --> 00:23:06,108
But we're just not...
Just not seeing them yet.
441
00:23:16,049 --> 00:23:19,467
There's definitely
problematic hogs in this area.
442
00:23:19,501 --> 00:23:20,813
It's just,
443
00:23:20,847 --> 00:23:23,160
they're not here at the moment,
you know?
444
00:23:23,194 --> 00:23:25,645
Well, the cracks are everywhere.
445
00:23:25,680 --> 00:23:28,165
They've walked here
in the past 24 hours.
446
00:23:28,199 --> 00:23:30,926
- Yeah.
- So where they at?
447
00:23:30,961 --> 00:23:34,482
Where?
448
00:23:34,516 --> 00:23:36,587
We could try our best
to hog call.
449
00:23:36,622 --> 00:23:38,624
Just, like...
Would that work?
450
00:23:41,212 --> 00:23:42,862
Wanna hear the most
annoying sound in the world?
451
00:23:42,869 --> 00:23:43,836
Yeah, that's it.
452
00:23:46,528 --> 00:23:48,634
And yet,
despite there being millions
453
00:23:48,668 --> 00:23:50,981
of invasive,
wild pigs in Louisiana,
454
00:23:51,015 --> 00:23:53,984
after terracing around
the marshes for hours,
455
00:23:54,018 --> 00:23:55,848
we come up empty.
456
00:23:55,882 --> 00:24:00,542
No pig for you,
Yankee carpetbagger.
457
00:24:00,577 --> 00:24:02,095
I know you wanna
have a family dinner
458
00:24:02,130 --> 00:24:03,614
and all this romantic bullshit,
459
00:24:03,649 --> 00:24:04,788
but look, let me tell you.
460
00:24:04,822 --> 00:24:06,479
My grandma has the
most oppressive farts
461
00:24:06,514 --> 00:24:08,619
you've ever smelled...
462
00:24:08,654 --> 00:24:10,276
And the best cinnamon rolls too,
463
00:24:10,310 --> 00:24:11,829
so you're in for a treat
both ways.
464
00:24:11,864 --> 00:24:13,521
I'm just saying.
I'm looking forward.
465
00:24:15,902 --> 00:24:18,215
Nope, we ain't get...
We didn't see nothing.
466
00:24:18,249 --> 00:24:20,873
No pigs.
It happens.
467
00:24:20,907 --> 00:24:22,730
I guess that's why they
call it fishing and hunting
468
00:24:22,737 --> 00:24:24,704
instead of killing
and catching, you know?
469
00:24:24,739 --> 00:24:26,188
Yep.
470
00:24:26,223 --> 00:24:27,362
Let's, uh,
471
00:24:27,396 --> 00:24:31,159
continue on with the beer
drinking and perverted jokes.
472
00:24:31,193 --> 00:24:33,541
You know?
Indeed.
473
00:24:33,575 --> 00:24:35,888
That's what we came here for.
474
00:24:41,928 --> 00:24:45,553
♪
475
00:24:45,587 --> 00:24:47,313
There are consolations, however,
476
00:24:47,347 --> 00:24:49,867
for our mighty hunters.
477
00:24:49,902 --> 00:24:51,593
Back at the Miller home,
478
00:24:51,628 --> 00:24:54,665
Grandma Jackie prepares
fresh-baked bread...
479
00:24:57,634 --> 00:24:59,256
While Uncle Bruno cooks up
480
00:24:59,290 --> 00:25:03,225
some traditional
family specialties...
481
00:25:03,260 --> 00:25:06,574
Shrimp and okra, sweet potatoes,
482
00:25:06,608 --> 00:25:07,920
rice, of course, and...
483
00:25:07,954 --> 00:25:09,611
Pot-au-pois...
484
00:25:09,646 --> 00:25:11,924
Heirloom peas from
Grandpa Larry's garden.
485
00:25:11,958 --> 00:25:15,168
All in all, things
worked out okay in the end.
486
00:25:15,203 --> 00:25:17,688
Bless us, O Lord,
and these, thy gifts,
487
00:25:17,723 --> 00:25:20,346
which we are about to receive
from Thy bounty.
488
00:25:20,380 --> 00:25:24,108
Through Christ, our Lord.
Amen.
489
00:25:24,143 --> 00:25:25,765
And,
490
00:25:25,800 --> 00:25:27,733
good food, good meat.
Great God, let's eat.
491
00:25:27,767 --> 00:25:30,183
God damn it, let's eat!
492
00:25:30,218 --> 00:25:32,116
You gotta pray
before you cuss, so...
493
00:25:32,151 --> 00:25:33,601
As one does.
494
00:25:33,635 --> 00:25:35,361
It's the order before you do it.
495
00:25:35,395 --> 00:25:37,087
Tony.
We always start with rice.
496
00:25:37,121 --> 00:25:39,323
- I'ma get some wine for...
- Yeah? Let's start with some...
497
00:25:39,330 --> 00:25:41,574
Jay's gonna pour some wine.
498
00:25:41,609 --> 00:25:42,748
Aww, it's beautiful.
499
00:25:42,782 --> 00:25:45,578
So everybody
excited about tomorrow?
500
00:25:45,613 --> 00:25:47,718
The big day?
Yeah, oh yeah.
501
00:25:47,753 --> 00:25:49,271
And then how many days
to recover?
502
00:25:49,306 --> 00:25:51,204
Well, we have
the whole Lent to recover.
503
00:25:51,239 --> 00:25:52,723
- Yeah.
- Right.
504
00:25:52,758 --> 00:25:55,208
- There you go.
- Thank you.
505
00:25:55,243 --> 00:25:59,316
The music and the food are
part of what makes us Cajun.
506
00:25:59,350 --> 00:26:01,387
And the Mardi Gras
is a very important part
507
00:26:01,421 --> 00:26:02,802
of who we are as a people.
508
00:26:02,837 --> 00:26:04,908
So we keeping
those traditions going.
509
00:26:04,942 --> 00:26:07,255
We're in the fifth...
Starting the fifth generation
510
00:26:07,289 --> 00:26:10,672
of my family running Mardi Gras.
511
00:26:10,707 --> 00:26:12,605
How far back
does the tradition go,
512
00:26:12,640 --> 00:26:14,918
and where did it all start?
513
00:26:14,952 --> 00:26:16,885
Back in the 16th century,
514
00:26:16,920 --> 00:26:18,715
and it wasn't called
Mardi Gras then.
515
00:26:18,749 --> 00:26:21,787
But it was because our ancestors
516
00:26:21,821 --> 00:26:23,823
who were not invited
to the king's party
517
00:26:23,858 --> 00:26:26,343
'cause he invited only
the wealthy people
518
00:26:26,377 --> 00:26:27,931
and the church hierarchy.
519
00:26:27,965 --> 00:26:30,761
So our people would do
a street party of their own.
520
00:26:30,796 --> 00:26:32,901
So what started out as
a genuine need for food...
521
00:26:32,936 --> 00:26:34,662
And a way to get it.
That's true.
522
00:26:34,696 --> 00:26:36,698
One day a year that
you could get it,
523
00:26:36,733 --> 00:26:38,079
and as I understand it,
524
00:26:38,113 --> 00:26:41,323
it was kinda license
to mock the people you were...
525
00:26:41,358 --> 00:26:42,386
Who were leaving you
out of the party.
526
00:26:42,393 --> 00:26:44,844
That's where the tall,
conical hats come from...
527
00:26:44,879 --> 00:26:46,708
In mockery of the Queen.
528
00:26:46,743 --> 00:26:47,944
They were proud people and
they wanted to be recognized.
529
00:26:47,951 --> 00:26:49,849
That's why they
disguised their face,
530
00:26:49,884 --> 00:26:53,370
and not to feel like
they were taking charity.
531
00:26:53,404 --> 00:26:55,337
- Mm-hmm.
- So they put on a performance.
532
00:26:55,372 --> 00:26:56,856
- You got a little...
- Here you go.
533
00:26:56,891 --> 00:26:59,376
So at each home that we stop at,
534
00:26:59,410 --> 00:27:00,853
there's, like,
a little party that goes on.
535
00:27:00,860 --> 00:27:02,759
Right,
so they knew you were coming,
536
00:27:02,793 --> 00:27:04,754
and you knew you were expected.
It's already prearranged.
537
00:27:04,761 --> 00:27:06,307
Like, they know we're coming,
they have a chicken,
538
00:27:06,314 --> 00:27:08,143
and they cook something and...
539
00:27:08,178 --> 00:27:10,042
So if I knew you were coming,
540
00:27:10,076 --> 00:27:13,148
what would the
appropriate preparations be?
541
00:27:13,183 --> 00:27:14,667
I should have some food on hand?
542
00:27:14,702 --> 00:27:16,289
You could throw money,
543
00:27:16,324 --> 00:27:17,808
you could donate
a couple chickens
544
00:27:17,843 --> 00:27:19,154
that they could chase and grab.
545
00:27:19,189 --> 00:27:20,673
Right.
546
00:27:20,708 --> 00:27:22,047
Basically just
board up the windows,
547
00:27:22,054 --> 00:27:25,160
and make like there's
a hurricane coming.
548
00:27:25,195 --> 00:27:26,886
Open up the barn,
549
00:27:26,921 --> 00:27:28,819
put everything in the barn,
lock the barn.
550
00:27:28,854 --> 00:27:29,717
Mm-hmm.
551
00:27:29,751 --> 00:27:32,685
I'm talking about
down to a shovel.
552
00:27:32,720 --> 00:27:34,204
If a Mardi Gras finds a shovel
553
00:27:34,238 --> 00:27:36,309
just leaning up against
the back of the house,
554
00:27:36,344 --> 00:27:37,828
they're gonna grab it,
dig a hole,
555
00:27:37,863 --> 00:27:39,416
and bury another Mardi Gras.
556
00:27:39,450 --> 00:27:40,866
- Or me.
- I know.
557
00:27:40,900 --> 00:27:44,041
I will be taking part in
the Mardi Gras run this year,
558
00:27:44,076 --> 00:27:46,699
and one does not interject
one's self among hundreds
559
00:27:46,734 --> 00:27:50,323
of drunk Cajuns
without proper attire.
560
00:27:50,358 --> 00:27:53,879
Fortunately, Grandma Jackie is
one of the premier couturiers
561
00:27:53,913 --> 00:27:56,260
of such specialty garb
in these parts.
562
00:27:56,295 --> 00:27:59,885
How many masks and outfits
do you do a year?
563
00:27:59,919 --> 00:28:02,232
Masks...
I guess I made about 50.
564
00:28:02,266 --> 00:28:04,061
I usually have 50 or 60 a year.
565
00:28:04,096 --> 00:28:05,753
So you're working on those
all year long?
566
00:28:05,787 --> 00:28:07,893
Um, well, yes.
567
00:28:09,480 --> 00:28:12,760
Jackie has created
a signature nose
568
00:28:12,794 --> 00:28:14,306
that's unique to her...
Basically, yeah.
569
00:28:14,313 --> 00:28:16,004
- That she's known for.
- Ah.
570
00:28:21,044 --> 00:28:23,046
A lot of people just say,
"I want a suit."
571
00:28:23,080 --> 00:28:24,765
Or if I have one, they say,
"Ooh, I like this.
572
00:28:24,772 --> 00:28:26,187
I like this one."
Right.
573
00:28:26,221 --> 00:28:27,844
Now, if they
come to me and they say,
574
00:28:27,878 --> 00:28:29,915
"I want the Saints," or, "LSU,"
575
00:28:29,949 --> 00:28:32,538
I say, "No, I make traditional",
576
00:28:32,572 --> 00:28:36,093
Tee Mamou
Mardi Gras costumes."
577
00:28:36,128 --> 00:28:38,302
I don't make one that
looks like Santa Claus
578
00:28:38,337 --> 00:28:41,305
or anything like him.
579
00:28:41,340 --> 00:28:44,792
They have to be traditional,
or I don't make them.
580
00:28:47,518 --> 00:28:49,279
Here it is.
581
00:28:49,313 --> 00:28:51,902
Oh, yeah.
582
00:28:51,937 --> 00:28:53,322
- It's amazing.
- There you go, Tony.
583
00:28:53,352 --> 00:28:55,906
- So thrilled.
- Oh, yeah.
584
00:28:55,941 --> 00:28:57,943
- Oh, it's fearsome.
- How'd you like to model it?
585
00:28:57,977 --> 00:28:59,910
That's great.
586
00:28:59,945 --> 00:29:02,292
- Let me just try it on.
- There you go.
587
00:29:02,326 --> 00:29:03,811
Uh-huh.
Oh, yeah.
588
00:29:03,845 --> 00:29:05,329
- Yeah.
- All right.
589
00:29:05,364 --> 00:29:06,572
It's all you.
590
00:29:06,606 --> 00:29:07,884
Give me a chicken.
591
00:29:07,918 --> 00:29:09,817
"Give me a chicken."
592
00:29:09,851 --> 00:29:12,060
- Just look at the back.
- Oh, man, it looks great.
593
00:29:12,095 --> 00:29:13,855
Oh, yes.
594
00:29:13,890 --> 00:29:15,263
I'm gonna wear this around
the house after Mardi Gras.
595
00:29:15,270 --> 00:29:17,169
Thank you so much.
596
00:29:17,203 --> 00:29:19,067
Thank you.
It's yours.
597
00:29:19,102 --> 00:29:21,104
Hey, I've seen
a lot of different people
598
00:29:21,138 --> 00:29:23,520
turn into a lot of different
things Mardi Gras day.
599
00:29:23,554 --> 00:29:24,548
That's right. That's right.
600
00:29:24,555 --> 00:29:26,419
Some of them ain't
come back from it either.
601
00:29:27,973 --> 00:29:29,435
You're like
the voice of doom, man...
602
00:29:33,841 --> 00:29:34,341
♪
603
00:30:15,917 --> 00:30:18,195
Traditional costumes
and revelry,
604
00:30:18,230 --> 00:30:20,370
the contrasting streak
of bright color
605
00:30:20,404 --> 00:30:24,063
set against the wet,
gray landscape of late winter.
606
00:30:24,098 --> 00:30:26,997
♪
607
00:30:27,032 --> 00:30:30,656
This is Grand Mamou, Louisiana,
608
00:30:30,690 --> 00:30:33,866
early morning of
the last day before Lent.
609
00:30:33,901 --> 00:30:35,557
And in Cajun Country,
610
00:30:35,592 --> 00:30:38,664
that means it's time
to run Mardi Gras.
611
00:30:40,700 --> 00:30:43,427
Men on horseback,
612
00:30:43,462 --> 00:30:46,672
men on foot,
in search of chickens,
613
00:30:46,706 --> 00:30:49,882
presumably, for the
evening's ritual gumbo.
614
00:30:49,917 --> 00:30:51,435
House to house they will go,
615
00:30:51,470 --> 00:30:55,405
bringing mirth,
mockery, and mayhem.
616
00:30:57,545 --> 00:31:00,997
Cajun Mardi Gras traces its
roots back to medieval France
617
00:31:01,031 --> 00:31:02,619
when this was
the one day of the year
618
00:31:02,653 --> 00:31:04,690
working poor
could hide their identity
619
00:31:04,724 --> 00:31:08,211
and subvert the
conventions of society.
620
00:31:08,245 --> 00:31:11,179
Old-fashioned costumes
modeled on satirical riffs
621
00:31:11,214 --> 00:31:13,457
on the period garb
of aristocrats,
622
00:31:13,492 --> 00:31:15,218
religious and political leaders
623
00:31:15,252 --> 00:31:18,290
remain the garment of choice,
624
00:31:18,324 --> 00:31:20,016
though there are also some
625
00:31:20,050 --> 00:31:23,019
decidedly modern adaptations.
626
00:31:23,053 --> 00:31:24,434
And at this point,
627
00:31:24,468 --> 00:31:26,091
I feel like
I should be giving you
628
00:31:26,125 --> 00:31:27,955
some sort of parental advisory
629
00:31:27,989 --> 00:31:30,267
about disturbing imagery
and behaviors,
630
00:31:30,302 --> 00:31:33,961
along with a caution not
to try any of this at home.
631
00:31:38,966 --> 00:31:39,466
♪
632
00:31:52,013 --> 00:31:53,946
Mardi Gras!
633
00:31:58,675 --> 00:32:00,573
While everybody is still
on their best behavior,
634
00:32:00,608 --> 00:32:02,990
the first stop at the
local retirement home,
635
00:32:03,024 --> 00:32:06,752
to bring a little joy into
the lives of the old folks.
636
00:32:06,786 --> 00:32:07,286
♪
637
00:32:44,341 --> 00:32:46,033
Mardi Gras!
638
00:32:46,067 --> 00:32:49,795
Come on!
639
00:32:49,829 --> 00:32:53,109
The Capitans,
in purple and gold robes,
640
00:32:53,143 --> 00:32:56,733
keep the marauders in line.
641
00:32:56,767 --> 00:32:58,493
I don't know what
these guys are called,
642
00:32:58,528 --> 00:33:00,702
but they are everywhere,
providing the revelers
643
00:33:00,737 --> 00:33:03,050
with a steady supply
of cold beer.
644
00:33:03,084 --> 00:33:04,223
Whoo!
645
00:33:04,258 --> 00:33:07,709
I believe they are called...
enablers.
646
00:33:07,744 --> 00:33:10,195
It's before 9:00 a.m.,
and already,
647
00:33:10,229 --> 00:33:12,542
everybody is thoroughly swacked.
648
00:33:19,618 --> 00:33:21,171
Since this is
my first Mardi Gras,
649
00:33:21,206 --> 00:33:23,484
a rundown of the rules
would be helpful.
650
00:33:23,518 --> 00:33:25,175
No eye-gouging.
651
00:33:25,210 --> 00:33:27,039
No fish-hooking.
No eye-gouging.
652
00:33:27,074 --> 00:33:31,112
- No picking in the nose.
- No groin shots.
653
00:33:31,147 --> 00:33:32,389
- No women.
- No women.
654
00:33:32,424 --> 00:33:35,530
No women, and don't
wring the chicken's neck.
655
00:33:35,565 --> 00:33:38,326
Oh, that's good to know.
Right.
656
00:33:38,361 --> 00:33:40,121
What happens
if you break the rules?
657
00:33:40,156 --> 00:33:41,364
Nothing.
658
00:33:41,398 --> 00:33:42,572
Whoa!
659
00:33:42,606 --> 00:33:45,747
- Whoa, whoa, whoa!
- Whoa!
660
00:33:48,716 --> 00:33:51,201
Catching chickens for
the evening community gumbo
661
00:33:51,236 --> 00:33:53,169
is the name of the game.
662
00:33:53,203 --> 00:33:57,104
But you don't get chickens
for free.
663
00:33:57,138 --> 00:33:59,244
That's what it's all about.
664
00:33:59,278 --> 00:34:01,867
You are expected to work for it,
665
00:34:01,901 --> 00:34:02,902
dancing, clowning,
666
00:34:02,937 --> 00:34:04,801
and providing some entertainment
667
00:34:04,835 --> 00:34:08,598
before your host release
the chicken or chickens.
668
00:34:08,632 --> 00:34:09,132
♪
669
00:34:17,227 --> 00:34:19,126
♪
670
00:34:23,682 --> 00:34:25,546
Kind of like trick-or-treating,
671
00:34:25,580 --> 00:34:27,720
if your Halloween candy
moved at high speed
672
00:34:27,755 --> 00:34:29,722
and all the other
trick-or-treaters were drunk
673
00:34:29,757 --> 00:34:31,655
and competing for the same
peanut butter cup
674
00:34:31,690 --> 00:34:33,726
like it was the last
peanut butter cup on Earth
675
00:34:33,761 --> 00:34:37,316
and they didn't care
if they killed you to get it.
676
00:34:37,351 --> 00:34:39,905
- Come here, chicken!
- Oh.
677
00:34:39,939 --> 00:34:41,907
Damn.
678
00:34:41,941 --> 00:34:43,909
Wow, grandma got that one.
679
00:34:43,943 --> 00:34:44,443
♪
680
00:34:48,431 --> 00:34:52,262
Whoa.
Oh, shit.
681
00:34:52,297 --> 00:34:53,160
Oh.
682
00:34:53,194 --> 00:34:56,611
No, man.
Those chickens...
683
00:34:59,683 --> 00:35:02,583
Oh.
684
00:35:02,617 --> 00:35:06,345
That takes
a level of dedication.
685
00:35:06,380 --> 00:35:08,175
Wouldn't that
leave you freezing cold
686
00:35:08,209 --> 00:35:10,487
with a moist nutsack
for the rest of the day?
687
00:35:10,522 --> 00:35:12,627
No.
688
00:35:23,362 --> 00:35:26,158
And the beer keeps on coming.
689
00:35:26,193 --> 00:35:28,333
And I wonder if this is
the kind of promotion
690
00:35:28,367 --> 00:35:31,543
a major brand had in mind.
691
00:35:35,305 --> 00:35:37,307
I'm...
I'm gonna have nightmares
692
00:35:37,342 --> 00:35:40,448
about grandma
flashing me her titties.
693
00:35:40,483 --> 00:35:42,312
Hey!
Mardi Gras!
694
00:35:42,347 --> 00:35:44,797
Does this mask
cause derangement?
695
00:35:44,832 --> 00:35:46,482
Like, if you keep
looking through the mask...
696
00:35:46,489 --> 00:35:49,733
Like I feel like...
Like I got a brain tumor.
697
00:35:49,768 --> 00:35:52,391
Mardi Gras, who does your hair?
698
00:35:52,426 --> 00:35:55,705
Who does your hair?
It's so nice.
699
00:35:55,739 --> 00:35:57,189
Hey!
700
00:36:06,405 --> 00:36:08,821
In feudal Europe, I guess
you'd describe what follows
701
00:36:08,856 --> 00:36:11,341
as a state of religious ecstasy,
702
00:36:11,376 --> 00:36:15,000
but it's evolved
into something else entirely.
703
00:36:19,038 --> 00:36:22,387
There's definitely
a "Purge" vibe... right?
704
00:36:25,631 --> 00:36:26,131
♪
705
00:36:33,467 --> 00:36:36,263
The Mamou Mardi Gras!
706
00:36:40,957 --> 00:36:44,685
I need a nurse next season.
707
00:36:44,719 --> 00:36:47,964
- Oh, yeah.
- Please look into that.
708
00:36:57,801 --> 00:36:59,631
I believe this might be
a prudent time
709
00:36:59,665 --> 00:37:01,909
to employ a stunt double,
710
00:37:01,943 --> 00:37:04,360
for purposes of
amusement, comedy,
711
00:37:04,394 --> 00:37:07,225
and of course, personal safety.
712
00:37:09,088 --> 00:37:10,400
Oh.
713
00:37:10,435 --> 00:37:10,935
♪
714
00:37:46,712 --> 00:37:48,818
Finally,
the mighty warriors return,
715
00:37:48,852 --> 00:37:50,647
triumphant, to a proud,
716
00:37:50,682 --> 00:37:53,754
if safely boarded-up town
of Mamou,
717
00:37:53,788 --> 00:37:55,756
by this time,
well beyond the point
718
00:37:55,790 --> 00:37:59,035
of noticing such things
as physical pain.
719
00:38:01,486 --> 00:38:04,351
Oh!
720
00:38:06,422 --> 00:38:06,922
♪
721
00:38:18,365 --> 00:38:21,126
Ugh.
722
00:38:21,160 --> 00:38:23,542
Gonna be hurting tomorrow.
723
00:38:36,486 --> 00:38:36,986
♪
724
00:38:50,500 --> 00:38:52,847
Ash Wednesday
marks the end of winter,
725
00:38:52,882 --> 00:38:56,541
the beginning
of spring and Lent,
726
00:38:56,575 --> 00:38:58,163
where bruised from our exertions
727
00:38:58,197 --> 00:39:00,061
and our dimly remembered sins,
728
00:39:00,096 --> 00:39:01,269
we might purge ourselves
729
00:39:01,304 --> 00:39:03,720
of our transgressions
and impure thoughts.
730
00:39:03,755 --> 00:39:07,068
Be merciful, O Lord,
for we have sinned.
731
00:39:07,103 --> 00:39:10,002
Try even to make amends,
perhaps,
732
00:39:10,037 --> 00:39:12,073
by getting right with Jesus
733
00:39:12,108 --> 00:39:15,525
in a period of fasting
and quiet reflection...
734
00:39:15,560 --> 00:39:17,389
Or something like that.
735
00:39:17,424 --> 00:39:21,428
Forgive us, O Lord,
for we have sinned.
736
00:39:22,774 --> 00:39:24,189
Ashes on the forehead,
737
00:39:24,223 --> 00:39:25,501
ask for forgiveness for all your
738
00:39:25,535 --> 00:39:28,089
chicken-related foolishness
of the previous day,
739
00:39:28,124 --> 00:39:30,885
then 40 days of meatless meals
740
00:39:30,920 --> 00:39:34,751
and no sin.
741
00:39:34,786 --> 00:39:36,201
I got stuff to do,
742
00:39:36,235 --> 00:39:37,720
so I'm hitting the drive-through
743
00:39:37,754 --> 00:39:39,411
for a more expedited service.
744
00:39:39,446 --> 00:39:42,725
It's like the express line
and so convenient.
745
00:39:42,759 --> 00:39:46,107
- Hi.
- Hi.
746
00:39:46,142 --> 00:39:49,525
Remember you are dust,
and to dust you shall return,
747
00:39:49,559 --> 00:39:52,976
but the steadfast love
of the Lord endures forever.
748
00:39:53,011 --> 00:39:54,530
Amen.
749
00:39:54,564 --> 00:39:57,049
Thank you.
750
00:39:59,466 --> 00:40:02,952
All right.
I got right with God.
751
00:40:06,611 --> 00:40:08,578
Let's eat.
752
00:40:14,135 --> 00:40:15,792
Then a drive
through country roads
753
00:40:15,827 --> 00:40:18,795
all the way out to near
Kaplan to Suire's Grocery,
754
00:40:18,830 --> 00:40:22,799
one of the more awesome
locations I've ever found,
755
00:40:22,834 --> 00:40:25,630
the kind of breakfast spot
I just love deeply,
756
00:40:25,664 --> 00:40:27,977
menu right there on the wall
as you walk in
757
00:40:28,011 --> 00:40:29,496
so you know what you're getting.
758
00:40:29,530 --> 00:40:30,945
Hi.
How you doing?
759
00:40:30,980 --> 00:40:33,810
Oh, real good now.
How you guys doing today?
760
00:40:33,845 --> 00:40:37,020
I think, uh, oyster po'boy,
761
00:40:37,055 --> 00:40:40,127
but you have
crawfish étouffée as well, yes?
762
00:40:40,161 --> 00:40:42,543
- Crawfish étouffée.
- Yeah, I gotta do that.
763
00:40:42,578 --> 00:40:45,926
And you do pecan pie by the
slice as well for dessert?
764
00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:47,479
- Yes, sir.
- Oh, yeah, okay.
765
00:40:47,514 --> 00:40:49,516
I'll be having
some of that later.
766
00:40:51,897 --> 00:40:54,935
Man, how come my grocery store
doesn't have this?
767
00:40:57,834 --> 00:41:01,217
Oh, man, eat your heart out.
768
00:41:01,251 --> 00:41:02,943
Got everything I need here.
769
00:41:02,977 --> 00:41:07,568
God damn it.
770
00:41:07,603 --> 00:41:12,539
Feeling pretty good
about the world considering.
771
00:41:12,573 --> 00:41:13,988
Minimal hangover,
772
00:41:14,023 --> 00:41:16,715
minimal, uh,
Mardi Gras-related damage.
773
00:41:16,750 --> 00:41:21,686
A few bruises.
774
00:41:21,720 --> 00:41:25,655
At my age, I should be happy
I didn't break my hip.
775
00:41:25,690 --> 00:41:27,554
Ah, thank you.
The pecan pie.
776
00:41:27,588 --> 00:41:30,039
- How'd you like it?
- Oh, so good.
777
00:41:30,073 --> 00:41:32,144
Really, really good.
Thank you.
778
00:41:32,179 --> 00:41:35,216
Love this place.
779
00:41:35,251 --> 00:41:38,185
On balance,
my Cajun Mardi Gras experience
780
00:41:38,219 --> 00:41:42,879
was certainly... memorable,
if nothing else.
781
00:41:42,914 --> 00:41:46,227
And through the parting clouds
of cruel winter,
782
00:41:46,262 --> 00:41:50,991
there is light and hope
in the onset of spring.
783
00:41:57,031 --> 00:41:57,894
♪
57486
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