Original subtitles

I will never be young again.

Or any younger than I am today.

I will never be faster or more flexible.

I will never win competitions against 22-year-old wrestlers

in my weight class.

I will never be a black belt.

None of those things will happen,

but none of that matters anymore.

♪

♪ I took a walk through this beautiful world ♪

♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪

♪ Found something good in this beautiful world ♪

♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪

♪ Sha la-la-la sha la-la-la ♪

♪ Sha la-la-la sha la-la-la ♪

♪

San Francisco is changing.

We all know it.

You can't stop it.

Were you born here?

Yeah. Both generations of my grandparents

from San Francisco.

My dad's side came out for the Gold Rush, in the 1850s.

Author John Birdsall grew up in this town

and he's a close observer of the changes happening here.

When I came here, I was making the same tired jokes

everyone from New York to San Francisco makes.

The granola and the bread.

Yeah.

In fact, nothing can be further from the truth.

San Francisco is an outrageously dirty town.

It's grimy.

You guys have actual street hookers in this center of town.

It's a two-fisted hand me drinking big martini,

big steaks heavy smoking old school '20s

mentality still.

Yes, but it's vanishing.

Google is not too far from here.

According to many locals, the whole character of the city

is being leached out by an invasion of tech people,

the flood of tech money.

It's the triumph of the nerds,

out with the old, in with the new.

No place epitomizes that better than where we are now.

I tell anyone to come and meet me here,

they sort of laugh at me.

It's this thing that doesn't really exist

in San Francisco anymore.

It's not self-consciously diving,

It has this faded worn out, smells kind of sour.

Sinbad's, lost in time yet its time running out,

living out its last stand on San Francisco's Pier 2,

just south of the neck beards and man bun vapors

buying coffee a few hundred yards away.

My mom used to come here and was a secretary.

There was a place that catered to unglamorous office workers.

Those are rarer and rarer.

- Is the relentless wheel of history going to roll - over this place?

Yeah, it will eventually roll over this place.

The location is too good.

One of the best views in San Francisco.

A last drink or two before the grinding wheels

of the apocalypse turn through,

leaving what in their wake?

They want to put a ferry terminal here, is that right?

Yeah. They want to build a fancy ferry terminal.

Young people coming here in the tech industry

are insulated from the culture of San Francisco.

Since the Beat Generation or the Second World War,

people came to San Francisco

in their 20s to do a very specific thing.

San Francisco is a place you can have an acid trip

and see the kind of thing you thought about

yourself is kind of bullshit.

Even though culture is changing and horrifyingly expensive...

Right.

There is still something like that

that exists in San Francisco.

You will always have that.

San Francisco will always make an impression on you.

San Francisco was built on toughness.

It's a boozy town, a saloon town.

Red meat, sex and dirt.

Every morning, every morning,

7:00 a.m., I'm here.

For the next hour or two hours

or sometimes more, I'm just getting crushed.

Humility, Jiu-jitsu gives you that, in spades.

In 1914, Mitsuyo Maeda, a master prizefighter,

emigrated to Brazil.

He befriended Gastao Gracie and ended up teaching his sons

Carlos and Helio

and Brazilian Jiu-jitsu and the UFC

all goes back to the Gracies.

My home academy is Renzo Gracie in Manhattan.

I'm telling you because the reason I'm doing another show

in San Francisco is to train here.

Ralph Gracie Academy,

one of the toughest and notorious...

That's it! So now, pass it!

...and most admired.

To a great extent because of the relationship

between the terrifying Ralph...

Gracie looks at you like he's got a problem.

Those eyes are menacing.

...and this man, Kurt Osiander,

the beloved figure in the Jiu-jitsu community

because of his remarkably honest and unvarnished

move of the week videos.

So, he gets stuck and he gave the guy an underhook.

A long time ago, it's so bad now you have to work really hard.

To my knees, head up!

Getting some control over the other guy.

When you see an MMA fight,

when they strike, it's usually

boxing or muay thai or karate.

When they throw or trip their opponent,

it's judo or wrestling,

but when it hits the ground,

you better know Brazilian Jiu-jitsu.

Object: to choke your opponent or lock his extremities

in such a way to make them submit.

I do not want this getting my guard broken.

That's bad. It sucks.

There's full mount.

Arm bar.

Ezekiel choke.

Rear naked choke.

Bow and arrow.

Then, as they say, my choices become very limited.

It's tap, snap, or natural.

You have his pants,

now start to rotate and extend your arm.

Don't lift him up.

Put your head this way, extend this arm.

Yes, pass it.

Hands a little bit tight.

You can always adjust it.

In case you haven't noticed,

I'm an old school guy.

I'm sentimental about some things,

nautical themed restaurants, puppies.

And places like this.

I'm fully aware of the fact...

I can hear it already...

Every show you've ever done in San Francisco, you come here.

Yes. That's correct.

True love cannot be denied.

I need a counter with some

familiar faces on the other side.

Good morning.

What am I having?

- I'm having crab back of course. - I'll get you one.

I need a cold draft beer.

I deserve this beer, been eating healthy.

I'm like a Real Housewife of New York City,

I drink only vodka, because it's low carb.

And I eat shellfish.

Look at the size of that one!

Here it is, a crab back!

Dude!

I guess somebody throws this away,

tear the legs off and eat them and throw this out,

stupid people, all that good stuff,

the grains and fat and magic, it's like unicorn juice.

Mm.

Swan Oyster Depot, a touchstone in my worldwide wanderings,

a happy zone.

If I read about myself dying at this counter

I say to myself, that was one lucky guy.

Sweet! Nice plate of crab legs,

maybe a little Louie on the side?

I guess.

So good.

Tony, here you go, babe.

I got...

I got local Tomales Miyagis.

I should eat these before training.

Gives me super human strength.

On the other hand, coughing up oysters all

over the front of my gi might not be cool.

The Bay Area is changing forever.

Will San Francisco's new overlords find place in their

hearts for this?

Trader Vick's.

One of the last of its kind.

Started in Oakland, a wave of

tiki themed Polynesian fancy

restaurants and bar clubs for a time spread across America.

I definitely need the drinks menu.

I've been beaten like a chicken fried steak.

You were doing some sort of martial art, too.

I want the mai tai wave?

What's the mai tai wave?

It's a flight of mai tais.

Really?

It's a surfboard with three different mai tais.

Not many places left that do this.

Very few do it, without irony.

This is not the first time you have been here?

No, I practically grew up in this place.

Really?

My parents used to take me from like age 3.

It was like a home at Trader Vic's.

Author Shawn Wilsey, grew up San Francisco.

His parents were regulars at the original downtown Vic's.

I used to drop acid and go to Hawaii Kai,

so this kind of thing is a taste of my childhood, too.

Oh, yeah.

I got sent to boarding school when I was a teenager.

East Coast boarding school,

everybody's like, you're from the Gay Bay.

It was really difficult to

negotiate being from San Francisco.

I would lie and say I was from Napa because I was embarrassed.

Really?

I was at like a hockey school in Massachusetts.

I was going to get hazed for being from San Francisco.

So San Francisco for you as a kid was...

I remember all sorts of factions,

like skinheads and skaters,

from the teenager's point of view,

and hippies and slightly older beatniks.

Everything was cheap.

I don't think San Francisco became an expensive rental town

until maybe the last 10 years.

I love this Pan Pacific...

They have a weird Tandori-Japanese-Chinese oven.

Right.

It's really good.

It's really good.

Do you want that rib?

No.

I'm taking it.

The narrative is evil techies are coming in and pushing out

the mom and pop restaurants.

That's a true thing.

People everyone hates is Google now, Google and Twitter?

They're really hated, only by certain people.

Outside San Francisco they're like heroes,

they changed the world.

Yeah!

We like them fine.

I google things.

Legitimate.

I google things, too.

I do. It happens, right?

Look...

Excuse me.

Google, they have their own buses,

which is apparently a bone of contention for people?

It is. Well, the buses...

Apparently if you work at Google or Twitter,

lunch is freshly made frittatas.

Italian housewife making...

Someone making kale smoothies.

I don't have any problem with it at all.

I don't really either.

I don't have a problem with that stuff at all.

I think the only point about like the way the city is

changing is, you know, just what was cool about it?

The city has a personality.

It feels like a seedy old-school American city, you know.

Do you want it to be the same everywhere you go?

The San Francisco right now is a pretty nice city.

It took me six months to be able to handle the warm-ups

back at my home academy.

For a long time after I just prayed somebody would be more

out of shape than me.

The warm-ups at house are legendarily tough.

They're proud of it, lasting in

some classes, they say, a half

hour and beyond, a ferocious

unrelenting interval training.

You go a block over, you're at Alamo Square,

that's where the Full House are.

It's super high-end real estate.

But... five years ago, it there was

like the hood and changed a lot.

This is 4505 meats.

They started off... Ryan would be on the street, outside a bar,

with a Weber grill and built up

the business as the reputation

best hamburger in the city and

then he opened up this place.

It's really good.

Wow.

It's a little of everything, our presidential platter,

jalapeño and cheddar sausage.

Our frank-a-ronis on top of a hot dog.

Oh, that's wrong. I want it.

Ribs, brisket, chicken, the hog we were cooking earlier.

Beans, potato salad and coleslaw.

Very very good. Thank you.

Thanks, man. Wow.

How long have you been in the restaurant business total?

17 years now.

You have become reluctantly, I'm sure, sort of the poster boy

for the beleaguered victimized

by tech money, what's happening

in San Francisco as a whole?

Yeah, there's definitely good guys and bad guys

and lots of people that came in now who haven't paid any

dues can open something right away,

drop $4 million in it or something.

Over the course of five years, Richie built his

restaurant Hop-a-ramen into a beloved local favorite.

Then he made a deal to open a brick and mortar Hop.

With that money came expectations and only four

months in the shit hit the fan.

If you're going to open a restaurant,

you're not going to make money.

And that's when the trouble started.

Who makes money in a year?

30 days we were facing those sorts of things.

The money wanted to make some changes, Richie did not.

So he left.

The restaurant he created vaporized with him.

At the old space we operated out of,

they're doing a vegan brunch there now.

No way.

It really is the perfect story of evil triumphs over good.

The problem is there is a lot

of people have the means to open

a restaurant and sort of open

formula restaurant, safe.

Any interesting food will get

forced out and be a town full of

Chipotles.

Thank you.

You're welcome.

Now, when you're a white belt, especially a 59-year-old

white belt facing younger,

stronger, far better competitors,

you don't go out there looking to win,

you go out there to learn how to survive.

If I can hold on, break their posture, give them something,

anything to think about before

they choke me out and I have to tap.

The changes are not just happening in San Francisco,

across the bay in Oakland,

gentrification is met with one

would think a starker history of resistance.

This after all is where the Black Panthers were born.

Bobby Seale was a founder of the Black Panthers,

a critical figure in Oakland history.

And here at Miss Ollie's, you get a taste of

the shiny new Oakland.

The black panther is a type of animal, if you push it into a

corner it will try to move out of your way.

If you keep pushing it, sooner or later it will come out of

that corner.

Said, that's like black people.

We came up with the Black Panther party and take a

position of self-defense.

The Panthers were viewed by the FBI as public enemy number 1.

They sold the Panthers as the enemy, using your own

imagery, strong black men holding weapons.

What Nixon saw as the real threat from the Panthers...

Popularity, with the killing of Martin Luther King,

my organization spread across the country.

It went beyond the Black Panther party.

The Panther's aims were, by today's standards, shockingly

moderate, equality in housing, education, employment

and basic civil rights.

But the image of black men with guns

was too much for the America of 1966.

Right after Nixon was sworn in, I got the Watergate tape.

"J. Edgar, you've got to get rid of those Black Panthers."

"What are you doing? How have you been doing this?"

"I want you to move and get rid of the Black Panthers."

The man's just been sworn, the president of the United States.

Raids are launched on Panthers strong points

around the country, arrests are many.

The FBI did everything they

could to eradicate them.

The Panthers say the

police have broken in

and killed one man at close range as he slept.

The dismantling of the Panthers was brutal,

everybody believes an assassination campaign

coupled with murder and arrests.

We had no charges, nothing,

they created, through their counter-intelligence program

everything that happened to us.

Are you happy with the level of black activism

in the country now?

I like the level of activism.

And black lives matter movement is very very important because

there's a bunch of young, intelligent youth

running this operation.

Do you think the good guys are winning?

What?

You look at it the way the country is running, do you think

the good guys are winning?

The bad guys, the Koch brothers, Tea Party and all

these right wing idiots are so far winning.

Young people have got to go out there and be progressive

enough not only to end police brutality but create frameworks

and demanding no.

These are the kinds of things that has to happen.

Curry and cauliflower, it's Indian-Chinese,

like General's Chicken made with vegetables.

It's one of our most popular dishes, vegetable candy.

Juhu Beach Club, in a strip mall in Oakland's Temescal

neighborhood, an unassuming but delicious new addition

started by this woman Preeti Mistry.

Ah, so good.

I know you've been to India several times.

Maybe you had the puffed rice?

Yes, yes.

We're in Oakland and we serve it in a ball jar.

Tamarind, chutney, cilantro chutney, pickled cabbage,

pickled onions, fresh green garbanzo beans,

puffed rice and chickpea noodles.

Oakland now, in terms of like artists and chefs

has basically, kids have been priced out of San Francisco.

It's still possible for a place like this basically funded

by Preeti and her wife, to open up.

In San Francisco,

I don't think it's really possible anymore to do that.

You need big investors.

You need lots of funding.

The food is both familiar and uniquely her own.

Chili paneer is one of my favorites.

It has bok choy, and other items,

none of which would traditionally be in it.

Does authenticity have any meaning or relevance

anymore at all?

I would say our food is not traditional.

Is it authentic? Hell, yeah,

100% authentic.

Saying it's not authentic is a person of Indian origin in the

United States is not authentic.

I grew up eating Indian food and pizza and hamburgers

at the same time.

So tasty.

Something we struggle with in New York

is how do you value Indian food?

Yeah, totally.

The expectation is you get authentic Indian food cheap.

Super cheap.

Our food is not cheap.

At Yelp review, it is said we are overpriced.

$19 for a curry.

Do you know how to make a curry?

Yogurt marinated chicken simmered

in a curry made of onions, bell peppers, chilies

and garam masala.

All right!

This is our chicken curry,

braised on the bone.

Butter, fresh red peppers in there.

That's totally delicious.

This guy right here, you want to cut it open.

Get the camera in over, right here.

Prepare the incision.

Whoa!

Some people say its an Indian scotch egg.

We invented the scotch egg, they didn't.

We took a duck egg, cooked it,

kept it soft, wrapped it in lamb

and the sauce has braised leg of lamb in it.

Wow.

Really extraordinarily delicious.

So, this is a positive thing.

Yeah. I think this is positive.

A change we like?

This is kind of change we like.

I believe any place that serves delicious food

is on the side of the angels.

Extend your arm.

Your other arm.

The other arm is anchored wrong, like this.

Did you see the vacant lot across the street?

That was San Jose Chinatown built in 1887.

That was first.

That was first.

A Chinese community first.

Right.

1890 was when some of the first Japanese arrived in this area.

South Bay San Jose, not much

going on out here other than

world domination by a small

group of tech companies.

On a happier less paranoid note,

San Jose has one of the last three Japantowns in the

country.

Who were the first Japanese to come over?

Students, laborers looking for a better life.

In traditional Japanese families

the first son inherited everything.

Generally, it was the second son

who would get nothing who came over.

When the first Japanese came here, one of the places they

stayed at was Chinatown.

You would have an Asian community.

They would be able to find food similar to Japanese food

and there'd be a comrade.

Thank you.

Curt Fukuda grew up in the area.

His family, like thousands of

other Japanese Americans, were

interned in camps in World War II.

In the beginning of the 20th Century there was a lot of

anti-Asian prejudice.

Too many taking our jobs.

Some of them were buying our land.

Things got really bad for Japanese after Pearl Harbor.

It was an internment program.

So they had a list of all the names.

Kids, too.

Children, too, they all had to go walking to the train

station in downtown San Jose.

My mother did say in the

beginning before they were

brought to the camps they were

brought to assembly centers

while the camps were being built.

It was the racetrack at Santa Anita and said they were

actually sleeping in horse stalls.

What happened to their property?

Some of the people found Caucasian friends to look over

the property while they were gone.

Some of the Japanese actually dug holes and buried possessions

hoping if they come back...

They can dig it up.

They can dig it up. Yes.

Oh, wow.

That brown gravy, awesome.

It's sort of a hybrid of

American dishes but with

Japanese ingredients.

Yes.

This is your typical Japantown restaurant food.

I think some of the

heartbreak of the internment,

this was really pure Americana.

The faces were Asian but the businesses and feel was

Mayberry.

Right.

This was a Japanese-American community

with emphasis on American.

The Japanese are actually a minority in this community now.

How Japanese will it be in 30 years?

Ah, that is the question.

I don't think it's good for

anything to just kind of remain frozen in time.

30 years from now, Japantown is

going to look very different.

If it looks like it does right

now then, you know, we're

talking about a very stagnant community.

You've been in the restaurant business now in the

San Francisco area how many years?

26.

Basically you've been feeding well-heeled people

much of that time.

My whole life.

Daniel Patterson is the chef

of one of the great Bay Area

restaurants, Coi, top of the fine dining world.

Two Michelin stars.

But in 2014 he and chef Roy Choi of LA's kogi empire

decided to embark on a revolutionary and probably

fool-hardy and totally selfless enterprise.

What are you up to now?

We're starting a fast-food venue.

Why?

It's unbelievable.

Because in our country, there's

so much of it it's okay for

people to eat garbage basically, processed food.

The tenderloin, the worst intersection,

most drug arrests and homicides, the most

vulnerable of our population are

being fed the worst food consistently.

Local, intends to address all those problems

creating a fast-food business good for the world.

This is Awesome Sauce, tomato, onion garlic,

a lot of olive oil.

Then scallion relish, grilled scallions and lime.

Veggie burger dressed exactly the same way, if you're like I

am, the word veggie burger will strike terror in your heart.

Yeah. It makes me violent, actually.

This will not make you violent.

It will make you happy.

Wow. I'd totally eat that.

If you didn't call it a veggie burger, I'd be all over this.

Yeah.

So fast, healthy and affordable.

Yeah, 2 to $6.

So you're not going to get rich off this venture?

We'll make money.

You will make money? We have to.

Just because something hasn't been done doesn't mean it can't.

Saving the world is one thing, making sure that my San

Francisco mentor gets something to eat other than acai,

is another priority.

This happened from, I grabbed this guy's collar and he broke

my rib this way and my finger went here.

I'm pretty sure Curt hasn't eaten at Coi before.

My finger broke against my 16 ounce glove against my head.

That's how hard this guy punched.

Not everybody likes to get punched in the face really hard.

Patterson's signature dish at Coi, the beat rose,

with yogurt and rose petal ice.

Thank you.

Well, it's pretty.

Oh, it's going to be good.

Mm. Oh, this is great.

Watch the barbarian eat really fancy food.

Oh, that looks good.

Yeah.

Egg yolk poached in smoked oil,

chives, California sturgeon caviar.

The egg yolk, it's fully cooked.

It's custard tasting.

A beautiful thing. Thank you.

I will love this.

Oh, yeah.

Man, I could eat more of those.

That was really good.

Why is there only one?

Born and bred in the San Francisco area?

Yes.

Jiu-jitsu for how long?

Since '93, since before the first UFC.

What was the preeminent martial art at the time?

I think it was karate.

Right?

Chuck Norris was big then,

right, kick people in the head kind of thing.

Cherry tomatoes and the sauce underneath is

grilled zucchini and wheat grass, herbs and flowers on top.

Everything I grew myself in my house.

That is killer.

Excellent.

Do you eat carbs?

I mean generally speaking?

You eat whatever?

I can eat whatever.

My guys are all trying the all bacon,

and all bacon all of the time.

Yeah, that cannot be good for you.

No.

Miss, so sorry.

That is okay.

I'm not even buzzed.

Wild king salmon wrapped in

uba with charred cabbage and

ginger sauce,

Seared spot prawn with onion.

Wow!

This is awesome.

Is that meat?

Oh, yeah.

What is it covered in?

Beef tenderloin encrusted

with lichen, coastal spinach, mushrooms

and bordelaise.

It's a taco.

Yes.

So, black sesame, mochiban and

strawberry and kumquat and...

Awesome, thank you so much.

It looks great.

Most of the people we talk to on the show are complaining that

San Francisco is becoming too clean,

real San Franciscans can't afford to live here anymore.

And they are being supplanted by rich techies who are crushing

the original heart and soul of what made San Francisco...

You are not seeing that?

I think that the pushing out of the...

trash, sorry, is good.

That is good for the Jiu-jitsu business for sure.

Well, I'm 95% white collar.

My tech guys are dangerous, especially my lawyers.

I got some lawyers.

Meaner than anything.

Yeah, they would be.

Yes, exactly.

♪

Here's the thing about Jiu-jitsu

In spite the fact that people are trying to choke

you unconscious on the mats that

you are scrambling for your life

in a sea of sweat, it is a remarkably and

refreshingly testosterone-free zone.

Good, yeah.

Now decapitate me.

High fiving for instance is not done.

One would not celebrate or brag about a submission and a fist

pump and a yes! Would with be inappropriate.

Win or lose, you thank your partner and shake their hand.

It is a douche-free environment.

This has been a very crazy week, Dad.

Last night in a restaurant they

gave you really small food.

It was good.

Yeah, that's good.

But then I came home and made a

sandwich, because I was is so hungry.

Curt is having a barbeque.

Yes!

Chicken hearts on, and this is why

I end up on Mondays smelling like barbeque in the gi.

"Why do you smell like barbeque?"

I was hanging over a fire all day.

As long as my hair doesn't light on fire.

As he spent a fair amount of training in Brazil, and he is

making a big pot of feijoada, the country's national dish.

Dude.

Oh, man.

Look at that.

Oh, yeah.

A slow cooked stew of beans and pig parts.

I grew up eating every piece of the animal there is

because if you are starving, you

will eat whatever there is at the table.

Plus grilled chicken hearts tri-tip and sausages.

Gotta have sausages.

Do you like it like that, raw-ish?

Love it. Me, too.

I don't like overcooked meat.

No, that's just wrong.

Food is ready!

There you go, bro.

Oh, wow.

You want to open that Macallan?

Hell no.

I have class tomorrow, and you kidding me?

I'll drink that whole bottle

and train with everybody.

You are the guy that still trains.

As soon as I started doing Jiu-jitsu,

it hit a part of my psyche that, OK, it's

challenging and more than brute force

and you have to think.

I was the guy if you were the old lady that hired me

to shovel the walk, I would do half of it

and realize that it is too hard and just disappear.

I cannot think of another thing that I attacked with such

regularity and with such... I

mean, I have been steadfast.

It is not a matter of if you're good enough.

Sometimes, it has to deal with maturity.

The old tends to get run over by the new.

That is how it works.

Whether it is San Francisco

invaded by a new generation of

people with different priorities,

or a 59-year-old man grappling

with a bunch of younger and

tougher and hungrier bastards.

But I don't know.

I like to think that there is a

hope, at a least hope that every

once in a while, the old guys

will have a good day.

♪

Oh, my God.

That was beautiful.