All language subtitles for Michael.Portillo.in.Stockholm.S01E03.1080p.HDTV.H264-DARKFLiX.en

Come with me as I take you

Come with me as I take you

to some of my favourite cities
on a long weekend.

to some of my favourite cities
on a long weekend.

Buongiorno tutti.

'Together,
we'll explore the places I love.'

'Together,
we'll explore the places I love.'

Oh, Palermo, what a beauty you are.

Oh, Palermo, what a beauty you are.

Oh, Palermo, what a beauty you are.

Oh, my word.

Madrid is next to heaven.

Madrid is next to heaven.

'And discover places new.'

'And discover places new.'

We put the vroom vroom into Milano.

We put the vroom vroom into Milano.

Oh, my! This is astonishing.

Oh, my! This is astonishing.

Oh, my! This is astonishing.

From Stockholm to Lisbon
we'll raise a glass...

From Stockholm to Lisbon
we'll raise a glass...

Sante.
Sante.

..and enjoy great food.

..and enjoy great food.

Mmm.

Pork that melts in your mouth.

I don't think there's
any delicate way of eating it.

I don't think there's
any delicate way of eating it.

Oh, absolutely.

Oh, absolutely.

'We'll leave
the tourist trail behind...'

'We'll leave
the tourist trail behind...'

Every bone in my body
has been shaken.

My goodness. We are on the ice.
Yes.

My goodness. We are on the ice.
Yes.

Oh, my word. We are tacking!

Oh, my word. We are tacking!

'..and seek out
special places to stay.'

'..and seek out
special places to stay.'

The view of Prague is magnificent.

The view of Prague is magnificent.

'Along the way,
we'll make new friends...'

'Along the way,
we'll make new friends...'

Do you mind if we do a selfie?
Oh, really?

Do you mind if we do a selfie?
Oh, really?

'..and memories to last a lifetime.'

'..and memories to last a lifetime.'

Oh!

Oh-oh!

Oh-oh!

I think I shall always remember
this. This is a beautiful moment.

I think I shall always remember
this. This is a beautiful moment.

I have rarely seen such opulence.

I have rarely seen such opulence.

What an amazing sight.

What an amazing sight.

I am loving this.

I am loving this.

I can't wait to show you more.

I can't wait to show you more.

My long weekend in Sweden's capital,
Stockholm,

My long weekend in Sweden's capital,
Stockholm,

is opening my eyes to a city
at ease with itself

is opening my eyes to a city
at ease with itself

and welcoming
towards those who visit.

and welcoming
towards those who visit.

I'm loving Stockholm,
this city of blue water

I'm loving Stockholm,
this city of blue water

whose fine architecture shimmers
in rippling reflections.

whose fine architecture shimmers
in rippling reflections.

whose fine architecture shimmers
in rippling reflections.

It's not the sort of city
I'm used to.

It consists of many islands
and countless bridges.

It consists of many islands
and countless bridges.

It consists of many islands
and countless bridges.

But stick with me, and together,

But stick with me, and together,

we will grow in our understanding
and our enjoyment.

we will grow in our understanding
and our enjoyment.

we will grow in our understanding
and our enjoyment.

'I was last here 20 years ago.

'I was last here 20 years ago.

'Even now, I recall
the relaxed charm of the place.

'Even now, I recall
the relaxed charm of the place.

'But I didn't realise how much it
has to offer to the long weekender.

'But I didn't realise how much it
has to offer to the long weekender.

'Just a short flight
from the United Kingdom.

'Just a short flight
from the United Kingdom.

'I've already lost myself
in an historic sport...'

'I've already lost myself
in an historic sport...'

HE SHOUTS

'..founded in England, apparently.'

'..founded in England, apparently.'

Oh! Ooh! Oh!

Oh! Ooh! Oh!

It's the Stockholm bloodbath.

It's the Stockholm bloodbath.

'Shot my fair share of schnapps.'

'Shot my fair share of schnapps.'

Fire and ice. I love it.

Ah, wonderful!
So, now you're officially a Swede.

Ah, wonderful!
So, now you're officially a Swede.

'And discovered
exquisite Scandi design past...'

'And discovered
exquisite Scandi design past...'

'And discovered
exquisite Scandi design past...'

What an amazing sight.

What an amazing sight.

'..and present.'
What a beautiful shape.

'..and present.'
What a beautiful shape.

This is like Christmas,
opening all these parcels.

This is like Christmas,
opening all these parcels.

I know.

'Today, I cleanse
Stockholm's frozen depths...'

'Today, I cleanse
Stockholm's frozen depths...'

GROANS
Here comes something big.

GROANS
Here comes something big.

'..fashion a fishy form
from a block of ice...'

'..fashion a fishy form
from a block of ice...'

I'm a sort of glacial Michelangelo.

I'm a sort of glacial Michelangelo.

'..and am blown away by a mighty
warship risen from the depths.'

'..and am blown away by a mighty
warship risen from the depths.'

'..and am blown away by a mighty
warship risen from the depths.'

I think they say shiver my timbers.
It's absolutely stunning.

I think they say shiver my timbers.
It's absolutely stunning.

I think they say shiver my timbers.
It's absolutely stunning.

Much like the British,
the people of Stockholm

Much like the British,
the people of Stockholm

are surrounded by water,
by the Baltic Sea and Lake Malaren.

are surrounded by water,
by the Baltic Sea and Lake Malaren.

are surrounded by water,
by the Baltic Sea and Lake Malaren.

Fishing is big business here.

Fishing is big business here.

Seafood is enjoyed
two to three times a week.

Seafood is enjoyed
two to three times a week.

According to TripAdvisor,

the capital has
100 fish restaurants

the capital has
100 fish restaurants

with specialities ranging from sushi
to traditional fishy fare.

with specialities ranging from sushi
to traditional fishy fare.

with specialities ranging from sushi
to traditional fishy fare.

I'll find my lunch
a few minutes' walk

I'll find my lunch
a few minutes' walk

from the Swedish History Museum
that I visited yesterday.

from the Swedish History Museum
that I visited yesterday.

I'm in one of the poshest
neighbourhoods in Stockholm,

I'm in one of the poshest
neighbourhoods in Stockholm,

and in this area,

all the great global design labels
have their shops.

all the great global design labels
have their shops.

all the great global design labels
have their shops.

I'm here in pursuit
of the humble herring,

I'm here in pursuit
of the humble herring,

which in Sweden
is no passing fashion.

which in Sweden
is no passing fashion.

'This establishment has been serving
seafood for more than a century.'

'This establishment has been serving
seafood for more than a century.'

'This establishment has been serving
seafood for more than a century.'

Thank you very much.

'Apparently, it was the first
restaurant in Stockholm to do so.'

'Apparently, it was the first
restaurant in Stockholm to do so.'

It all looks beautiful.

Herring,
any number of different ways.

Herring,
any number of different ways.

I'm very impressed
by Sweden's relationship with fish.

I'm very impressed
by Sweden's relationship with fish.

I think many British people's
relationship is frozen products

I think many British people's
relationship is frozen products

I think many British people's
relationship is frozen products

from the freezer cabinet
in the supermarket.

from the freezer cabinet
in the supermarket.

And here in Sweden,
on the other hand, the herring.

And here in Sweden,
on the other hand, the herring.

What a modest little fish
the herring is.

It's like a child's drawing
of a fish. And yet here we are.

It's like a child's drawing
of a fish. And yet here we are.

The Swedes serve it up
in all these different ways.

The Swedes serve it up
in all these different ways.

And the fact that this is still
what Swedish people eat

And the fact that this is still
what Swedish people eat

in a sophisticated restaurant
like this suggests a connection

in a sophisticated restaurant
like this suggests a connection

to heritage and tradition,
which is largely lacking in Britain.

to heritage and tradition,
which is largely lacking in Britain.

to heritage and tradition,
which is largely lacking in Britain.

This is food at its simplest
and at its best.

This is food at its simplest
and at its best.

On the menu, I recognise
some of the local fish

On the menu, I recognise
some of the local fish

and seafood dishes, but not all.

and seafood dishes, but not all.

I note that though the Swedes share
the British love of battered cod,

I note that though the Swedes share
the British love of battered cod,

here, it's served
with pickled veg and mash.

here, it's served
with pickled veg and mash.

'I'm meeting head chef, Mikael...'

Hi, I'm Michael.
Welcome.

Same name.
Yeah.

'..to lend a hand in the kitchen

'..to lend a hand in the kitchen

'and learn how the humble herring
is prepared and served.'

'and learn how the humble herring
is prepared and served.'

'and learn how the humble herring
is prepared and served.'

Lots of people here. It's busy.

Lots of people here. It's busy.

'In Sweden,
herring is an everyday meal

'In Sweden,
herring is an everyday meal

'and is rolled out
on the big three annual holidays -

'and is rolled out
on the big three annual holidays -

'Christmas, Easter and midsummer.'

'Christmas, Easter and midsummer.'

Why do you think
Swedes enjoy herring so much?

Why do you think
Swedes enjoy herring so much?

I mean, clearly, there are a lot
of herring in the sea.

That must be the first reason.

It's been a Swedish tradition
for ages. Yes.

It's been a Swedish tradition
for ages. Yes.

I guess it's because way back,

you cured it and had your fish
all year round

you cured it and had your fish
all year round

when you didn't have
any other things to eat.

when you didn't have
any other things to eat.

And when you say cure, what sort
of treatments has the fish had here?

And when you say cure, what sort
of treatments has the fish had here?

The first thing, you have to
put them in cold water for 24 hours

The first thing, you have to
put them in cold water for 24 hours

just to get rid of the salt.

Then you will pickle it
in some vinegar and sugar and water.

Then you will pickle it
in some vinegar and sugar and water.

Then you will pickle it
in some vinegar and sugar and water.

And when you're done with that,
you can do whatever you want.

And when you're done with that,
you can do whatever you want.

Yeah.

This is, like, a small variety

This is, like, a small variety

of the types we have
in the cold section.

Right now, we have, like,
four or five more on the menus.

Right now, we have, like,
four or five more on the menus.

'Smoked, pickled, fermented,
curried.

'Smoked, pickled, fermented,
curried.

'Smoked, pickled, fermented,
curried.

'There are many ways
to serve a herring.'

Oh, I think that will be
absolutely delicious.

Oh, I think that will be
absolutely delicious.

'Some surprising.'

Cheese on the side here.
Cheese?

Cheese on the side here.
Cheese?

Yes. You always have cheese
on the side to..

Yes. You always have cheese
on the side to..

when you're eating herring.

The last thing I expected you
to say was cheese.Yeah.

The last thing I expected you
to say was cheese.Yeah.

'And sometimes, just as it comes.'

'And sometimes, just as it comes.'

You gonna put any oil down, or...?
No, just some salt.

You gonna put any oil down, or...?
No, just some salt.

Just some salt. Wow.
Add it to the stove.

Just some salt. Wow.
Add it to the stove.

This is quite a high temperature,
isn't it?Yeah.

This is quite a high temperature,
isn't it?Yeah.

Beautiful fish.
Look at the way they sparkle.

Beautiful fish.
Look at the way they sparkle.

Look at all those lovely colours
reflected in their scales.

Look at all those lovely colours
reflected in their scales.

This is fantastic when you're out
fishing and cook them straight away.

This is fantastic when you're out
fishing and cook them straight away.

This is fantastic when you're out
fishing and cook them straight away.

Do you fish? And you enjoy it?
I love it.

Do you fish? And you enjoy it?
I love it.

Yeah.

Let's have a look. Looks perfect.

Let's have a look. Looks perfect.

Mmm.

You know what I love about this
is the absolute simplicity.

You know what I love about this
is the absolute simplicity.

Yeah, it's all about the product.
Yeah.

So, how we usually serve this
is with some mashed potatoes

So, how we usually serve this
is with some mashed potatoes

and some beurre noisette.

and some beurre noisette.

Dill as well, and some lemon.

Dill as well, and some lemon.

Squeeze some lemon on top,
and it will fall right off the bone.

Squeeze some lemon on top,
and it will fall right off the bone.

Squeeze some lemon on top,
and it will fall right off the bone.

Let's have a try.

Oh, it's superb.

The absolute quality of that
is marvellous.

The absolute quality of that
is marvellous.

Thank you, Mikael.
Thank you.

'If you don't fancy eating in,

'they also offer takeout
from the deli counter,

'they also offer takeout
from the deli counter,

'brimful with local products
and seafood,

'brimful with local products
and seafood,

'some caught fresh
by the restaurant's own boat.'

'some caught fresh
by the restaurant's own boat.'

A postscript on herring.

A postscript on herring.

In the early 1980s,

a Soviet submarine washed up
on the southern coast of Sweden,

a Soviet submarine washed up
on the southern coast of Sweden,

a Soviet submarine washed up
on the southern coast of Sweden,

and the Swedes naturally became very
concerned about Soviet espionage.

and the Swedes naturally became very
concerned about Soviet espionage.

and the Swedes naturally became very
concerned about Soviet espionage.

For years, they then monitored
sounds coming from the deep,

For years, they then monitored
sounds coming from the deep,

For years, they then monitored
sounds coming from the deep,

which they assumed were being
produced by Russian submarines.

which they assumed were being
produced by Russian submarines.

which they assumed were being
produced by Russian submarines.

In fact, eventually,
it was discovered

In fact, eventually,
it was discovered

that the origin was the herring.

that the origin was the herring.

The fish has a unique connection

The fish has a unique connection

between the swim bladder
and the anal duct.

between the swim bladder
and the anal duct.

And when they're startled,
they let out little bubbles.

And when they're startled,
they let out little bubbles.

The sound has been likened
to the frying of bacon.

The sound has been likened
to the frying of bacon.

For all those years,

the Swedes have been suspecting
Soviet spying,

the Swedes have been suspecting
Soviet spying,

and it was actually
fishy flatulence.

and it was actually
fishy flatulence.

'Coming up,
my weekend gets very messy...'

'Coming up,
my weekend gets very messy...'

Getting rubbish out of the sea
is filthy work.

Getting rubbish out of the sea
is filthy work.

Getting rubbish out of the sea
is filthy work.

'..fishing for tons
of marine waste.'

'..fishing for tons
of marine waste.'

I don't wanna knock the crown off.

While we have the king watching us.
Yes, yes.

While we have the king watching us.
Yes, yes.

The punishment could be
very, very heavy.

Hello.
Hello. God dag, god dag.

Hello.
Hello. God dag, god dag.

'And I discover a mysterious island

'And I discover a mysterious island

'where time travel
is taken very seriously.'

'where time travel
is taken very seriously.'

In what year are you?

1902.

And to complicate it,
I spend summers in 1794.

And to complicate it,
I spend summers in 1794.

HE LAUGHS

'My long weekend in Stockholm
is flying by.

'My long weekend in Stockholm
is flying by.

'The more I come to know this city,

'the more I feel I'm going
to miss it when it's over.'

'the more I feel I'm going
to miss it when it's over.'

Even in winter,
maybe particularly in winter,

Even in winter,
maybe particularly in winter,

when the sun comes out,
Stockholm zings in the light.

when the sun comes out,
Stockholm zings in the light.

when the sun comes out,
Stockholm zings in the light.

I am not surprised to discover

that Swedish people
are environmentally conscious

that Swedish people
are environmentally conscious

and very keen that Stockholm
should be sustainable.

and very keen that Stockholm
should be sustainable.

and very keen that Stockholm
should be sustainable.

In fact, back in 2010,

it was named
by the European Commission

it was named
by the European Commission

Europe's first Green Capital.

Europe's first Green Capital.

But despite appearances,
the city needs a deep clean.

But despite appearances,
the city needs a deep clean.

But despite appearances,
the city needs a deep clean.

Ever since the city was founded
in 1252,

Ever since the city was founded
in 1252,

Stockholmers have embraced
their position on the water

Stockholmers have embraced
their position on the water

and their proximity to nature.

Their commitment to sustainability
doesn't feel faddish.

Their commitment to sustainability
doesn't feel faddish.

It's part of the culture.

Five years ago,

a local diver began retrieving
rubbish from the murky depths.

a local diver began retrieving
rubbish from the murky depths.

Today, he runs regular clean-ups

Today, he runs regular clean-ups

with a team of divers
who brave the freezing temperatures

with a team of divers
who brave the freezing temperatures

to clear the waters.

Getting rubbish out of the sea
is filthy work,

Getting rubbish out of the sea
is filthy work,

Getting rubbish out of the sea
is filthy work,

so I have dressed the part.

so I have dressed the part.

Salvaging far below the ice
is dark and dangerous work.

Salvaging far below the ice
is dark and dangerous work.

Salvaging far below the ice
is dark and dangerous work.

Divers are attached
by safety lines to shore,

Divers are attached
by safety lines to shore,

where volunteers
and members of the public

where volunteers
and members of the public

drag the salvage out of harm's way.

drag the salvage out of harm's way.

Today, I'm the newest recruit,

and who knows, you, too,
could enlist on your visit.

and who knows, you, too,
could enlist on your visit.

This salvage operation takes place
on most weekends

This salvage operation takes place
on most weekends

This salvage operation takes place
on most weekends

and in full view of the public.

In fact, publicity is welcome,

letting people know
what's going on here.

letting people know
what's going on here.

So if you're gonna be in Stockholm
for a weekend,

So if you're gonna be in Stockholm
for a weekend,

it might not seem like
a normal part of a winter break,

it might not seem like
a normal part of a winter break,

but you could find out where they're
going to be while you're here.

but you could find out where they're
going to be while you're here.

Go down there, have a look.
You'll soon learn the ropes.

Go down there, have a look.
You'll soon learn the ropes.

So, we've got something big here.
My name's Michael, by the way.

So, we've got something big here.
My name's Michael, by the way.

Michael.
Michael.

I think that's stuck.

One, two and on three.
One, two, three.

One, two and on three.
One, two, three.

Well done.
Good job to you, sir.

Well done.
Good job to you, sir.

Well done.

I don't wanna knock the crown off.

I don't wanna knock the crown off.

While we have the king watching us.
Yes, yes, yes.

While we have the king watching us.
Yes, yes, yes.

I think the punishment
for knocking a crown off

I think the punishment
for knocking a crown off

could be very, very heavy.
Yeah.

MICHAEL GROANS

MICHAEL GROANS

You are very experienced at this.
You're doing well.

You are very experienced at this.
You're doing well.

Here comes something big.
One, two...

Here comes something big.
One, two...

MICHAEL GROANS

Are you doing this every weekend?
Almost, yeah.

Are you doing this every weekend?
Almost, yeah.

Ah, you're amazing.

Sorry.
Sorry.

HE CHUCKLES
With all the public passing by here.

HE CHUCKLES
With all the public passing by here.

MICHAEL GROANS

It's huge.
Yeah. Ups...

It's huge.
Yeah. Ups...

Oh, yeah.
Upsy-daisy.

Upsy-daisy, indeed.
Yay.

Dear God.
Good job.

Heaven's sake.
Here you are.

Heaven's sake.
Here you are.

Look at this enormous piece
of rubbish.

Look at this enormous piece
of rubbish.

'On the other side of the bridge,

'On the other side of the bridge,

'the man responsible
for these clean-ups

'the man responsible
for these clean-ups

'is finally coming up for air.'

Hello, Fredrik.
Hello.

Are you feeling a bit cold?
Er, a little bit, yes.

Are you feeling a bit cold?
Er, a little bit, yes.

Yeah, it's pretty cold.

Are you?
No, I'm fine.

We, er... We brought some
very big pieces up over the bridge.

We, er... We brought some
very big pieces up over the bridge.

Great. Yeah, it's heavy work,
especially for you guys.

Great. Yeah, it's heavy work,
especially for you guys.

Great. Yeah, it's heavy work,
especially for you guys.

I can see here a mass of filth
and waste and horror.

I can see here a mass of filth
and waste and horror.

I can see here a mass of filth
and waste and horror.

I mean, we started the project
was to get up the lead batteries.

I mean, we started the project
was to get up the lead batteries.

Yes.
They are absolutely the worst.

I'm very proud to say that I think
we have 40,000 kilos of those.

I'm very proud to say that I think
we have 40,000 kilos of those.

I'm very proud to say that I think
we have 40,000 kilos of those.

40,000 kilos of batteries.
Just for batteries.

40,000 kilos of batteries.
Just for batteries.

And tyres, they contain PAH oils,
which are carcinogenic.

And tyres, they contain PAH oils,
which are carcinogenic.

And tyres, they contain PAH oils,
which are carcinogenic.

But the thing I'm very mad about

But the thing I'm very mad about

is that so many put the scooters in,
electric scooters.

is that so many put the scooters in,
electric scooters.

is that so many put the scooters in,
electric scooters.

We have picked up 1,300 scooters,
and they contain lithium,

We have picked up 1,300 scooters,
and they contain lithium,

We have picked up 1,300 scooters,
and they contain lithium,

which is not good at all
for the environment.

which is not good at all
for the environment.

Where possible,
the rubbish is recycled.

Where possible,
the rubbish is recycled.

The team also uses it
to make satirical sculptures

The team also uses it
to make satirical sculptures

that highlight the issues
of environmental pollution.

that highlight the issues
of environmental pollution.

Like this pyramid
of discarded credit cards.

Like this pyramid
of discarded credit cards.

Today, we've been doing a sculpture
to show that each week,

Today, we've been doing a sculpture
to show that each week,

every one of us gets into ourself
one credit card of microplastics.

every one of us gets into ourself
one credit card of microplastics.

every one of us gets into ourself
one credit card of microplastics.

I mean, I had no idea that
I was ingesting all this plastic.

I mean, I had no idea that
I was ingesting all this plastic.

I realised it was bad
for marine life.Yeah.

I realised it was bad
for marine life.Yeah.

I didn't really think
about how bad it was for me.

I didn't really think
about how bad it was for me.

Yeah, it sure is.

Yeah, it sure is.

Well, fantastic.
I've really enjoyed it today.

Well, fantastic.
I've really enjoyed it today.

Thank you so much for joining us.
Fantastic.

Thank you so much for joining us.
Fantastic.

Have a good stay in Stockholm now.

Thank you. That's a cold hand,
but a warm heart.It is.

Thank you. That's a cold hand,
but a warm heart.It is.

FREDRIK LAUGHS
Thank you.

FREDRIK LAUGHS
Thank you.

Fredrik and his team
are undoing some of the damage.

Fredrik and his team
are undoing some of the damage.

They work and work and never "tyre".

They work and work and never "tyre".

'My next destination

'is one of Stockholm's
most popular theme parks,

'is one of Stockholm's
most popular theme parks,

'and to reach it...'

Ah, the faithful Stefan. Hello.
Hello.

Ah, the faithful Stefan. Hello.
Hello.

'..I'm taking my favourite form
of transport.

'..I'm taking my favourite form
of transport.

'A short voyage from Skeppsholmen

'A short voyage from Skeppsholmen

'is an island almost entirely
given over to recreation.'

'is an island almost entirely
given over to recreation.'

The island of Djurgarden.

The island of Djurgarden.

An island of museums
and entertainments

An island of museums
and entertainments

An island of museums
and entertainments

of fun and enlightenment.

of fun and enlightenment.

'Wrap up warmly
as we step back in time

'Wrap up warmly
as we step back in time

'and experience how the Swedes lived

'in the centuries
before the Industrial Revolution.

'in the centuries
before the Industrial Revolution.

'A visit in the winter

'guarantees that we'll have
the place almost to ourselves,

'guarantees that we'll have
the place almost to ourselves,

'and the entrance fee
is discounted, too.'

'and the entrance fee
is discounted, too.'

I learn a lot from open-air museums,

I learn a lot from open-air museums,

and this one, Skansen,
opened in 1891,

and this one, Skansen,
opened in 1891,

has been a model to the world.

has been a model to the world.

A man called Artur Hazelius

A man called Artur Hazelius

was worried that he saw a lot
of the heritage of Sweden,

was worried that he saw a lot
of the heritage of Sweden,

was worried that he saw a lot
of the heritage of Sweden,

old buildings being demolished
by industrialisation,

old buildings being demolished
by industrialisation,

so he started to collect houses and
shops and barns and bring them here.

so he started to collect houses and
shops and barns and bring them here.

so he started to collect houses and
shops and barns and bring them here.

'Over 150 homes and farmsteads
are spread across the 75-acre park

'Over 150 homes and farmsteads
are spread across the 75-acre park

'Over 150 homes and farmsteads
are spread across the 75-acre park

'and brought to life
by teams of re-enactors

'and brought to life
by teams of re-enactors

'dressed in authentic costumes.'

'dressed in authentic costumes.'

Hello.
Hello. God dag, god dag.

Hello.
Hello. God dag, god dag.

It's very good to see you.
Erm, tell me about yourself.

It's very good to see you.
Erm, tell me about yourself.

In what year are you?
1902.

In what year are you?
1902.

So, you live part of your life
in 1902

So, you live part of your life
in 1902

and part of your life in 2024?

and part of your life in 2024?

All my colleagues are...
have a double life like that.

All my colleagues are...
have a double life like that.

HE LAUGHS
Exactly so.

And to complicate it,
I spend summers in 1794.

And to complicate it,
I spend summers in 1794.

And to complicate it,
I spend summers in 1794.

HE LAUGHS

Which character are you?

Hmm. So, normally,
the school teacher.

Hmm. So, normally,
the school teacher.

Hmm. So, normally,
the school teacher.

Do you find that people love
to learn about the past from you?

Do you find that people love
to learn about the past from you?

Do you find that people love
to learn about the past from you?

Definitely.
They don't want us to stop.

Definitely.
They don't want us to stop.

When I ring the magic bell
and times go back to 2024,

When I ring the magic bell
and times go back to 2024,

When I ring the magic bell
and times go back to 2024,

they say, "Oh, no, no!"

THEY LAUGH

This must give you a lot
of satisfaction.

This must give you a lot
of satisfaction.

That's how it is. Yes.

'As I explored deeper into the park,
I travelled further back in time...

'As I explored deeper into the park,
I travelled further back in time...

'As I explored deeper into the park,
I travelled further back in time...

'..to a farmstead from the 1830s.'

'..to a farmstead from the 1830s.'

Well, hello.
Hello, and welcome.

Well, hello.
Hello, and welcome.

Oh, you've got a nice warm fire.

Oh, you've got a nice warm fire.

That's a perk of your job.
Yeah.

And a terrific farmhouse.

And a terrific farmhouse.

It's a farmstead
from the north of Sweden.

It's a farmstead
from the north of Sweden.

It looks like this room was used
for everything.

It looks like this room was used
for everything.

There's a cooking area,
an eating area.

There's a cooking area,
an eating area.

There's a bed.
Maybe it's a child's bed, is it?

There's a bed.
Maybe it's a child's bed, is it?

That is a bed for grown-ups,
actually. Is it? Is it?

That is a bed for grown-ups,
actually. Is it? Is it?

So, you slept at least two
in there, keeping it warm.

So, you slept at least two
in there, keeping it warm.

And what kind of reactions
do you get from people?

And what kind of reactions
do you get from people?

Some people wanting to live
in the old time.

Some people wanting to live
in the old time.

Yeah, yeah.
It's very easy to become nostalgic

Yeah, yeah.
It's very easy to become nostalgic

until you remember that...

the old world didn't have
anaesthetics and things like that...

the old world didn't have
anaesthetics and things like that...

No.

..and that life was very,
very short and very, very difficult.

..and that life was very,
very short and very, very difficult.

Actually, it's quite common
to live at late 60s or around 70s.

Actually, it's quite common
to live at late 60s or around 70s.

Actually, it's quite common
to live at late 60s or around 70s.

That doesn't give me much leeway.
Yeah.

That doesn't give me much leeway.
Yeah.

HE LAUGHS
It's lovely to see you.

HE LAUGHS
It's lovely to see you.

Thank you.
You keep warm.

Thank you.
You keep warm.

Yeah.
Thank you.

You're welcome.
Bye-bye.

You're welcome.
Bye-bye.

'At the height of summer,

'this museum resembles
a busy film set,

'this museum resembles
a busy film set,

'with scores of characters,
dressed in historic local costume,

'with scores of characters,
dressed in historic local costume,

'mingling with the visitors.

'Behind the scenes,

'workshops and wardrobe
and art departments

'workshops and wardrobe
and art departments

'help to recreate the past.'

'help to recreate the past.'

Hello.
Hello. Welcome.

I'm Michael.
Welcome.

You are now in the centre
where the magic is, I would say.

You are now in the centre
where the magic is, I would say.

'Costume designer Camilla
oversees hundreds of garments,

'Costume designer Camilla
oversees hundreds of garments,

'all conscientiously restored
and preserved.'

'all conscientiously restored
and preserved.'

And it's a big range
from all over Sweden.

And it's a big range
from all over Sweden.

This is from Dala-Floda,
Dalarna in Sweden.

This is from Dala-Floda,
Dalarna in Sweden.

I love the embroideries.
These are absolutely superb.

I love the embroideries.
These are absolutely superb.

Yes. And I can show you one
that is really, really old.

Yes. And I can show you one
that is really, really old.

I think it's so beautiful.
And you can see that it's been worn.

I think it's so beautiful.
And you can see that it's been worn.

Yes.
It's really, really old.

How old, do you think?
I would say 1850.

How old, do you think?
I would say 1850.

How old, do you think?
I would say 1850.

Isn't that remarkable?

And we have some photos here
of women wearing them.

And we have some photos here
of women wearing them.

So, it's a part of a folk costume,
so...

So, it's a part of a folk costume,
so...

How do you acquire
these costumes, then?

How do you acquire
these costumes, then?

Do you go out and buy them?
Sometimes.

Do you go out and buy them?
Sometimes.

And sometimes, we get gifts
from other museums.

And sometimes, we get gifts
from other museums.

And sometimes, we get gifts
from other museums.

You have real treasures here,
don't you?

You have real treasures here,
don't you?

'Before I leave,

'Camilla has agreed to let me
journey back to the 19th century,

'Camilla has agreed to let me
journey back to the 19th century,

'Camilla has agreed to let me
journey back to the 19th century,

'when traditional costume was worn

'when traditional costume was worn

'for special occasions
and celebrations.'

'for special occasions
and celebrations.'

Er, how is it going?
How are you doing?

Er, how is it going?
How are you doing?

Nearly there, nearly there.
Great.

Nearly there, nearly there.
Great.

A couple of things
are a bit awkward.

A couple of things
are a bit awkward.

I understand that.
Yeah.

Hey, hey.
Wow. Perfect.

Hey, hey.
Wow. Perfect.

It's such a beautiful costume.
Like you never wore anything else.

It's such a beautiful costume.
Like you never wore anything else.

It's such a beautiful costume.
Like you never wore anything else.

Like you were born into it.
I feel so proud to wear it.

Like you were born into it.
I feel so proud to wear it.

I feel like the person who wore this
was, erm, virtuous and hard working

I feel like the person who wore this
was, erm, virtuous and hard working

I feel like the person who wore this
was, erm, virtuous and hard working

and at a time when men didn't mind
being a little bit peacock-like.

and at a time when men didn't mind
being a little bit peacock-like.

and at a time when men didn't mind
being a little bit peacock-like.

Exactly.
Why did they stop being like that?

Exactly.
Why did they stop being like that?

Exactly.
Why did they stop being like that?

You've certainly given me
some new ideas for how to dress.

You've certainly given me
some new ideas for how to dress.

Good.

'Coming up...'

Yay.

'..I raise a toast
to a very cool bar...'

'..I raise a toast
to a very cool bar...'

The bar is made of ice.
Yes.

The bar is made of ice.
Yes.

The seats are made of ice.
Yes.

The seats are made of ice.
Yes.

'..and discover
a centuries-old warship

'..and discover
a centuries-old warship

'perfectly preserved.'

And you just can't get over
how intact it is.

And you just can't get over
how intact it is.

What a great slab of history.

What a great slab of history.

'Just a five-minute stroll

'from Stockholm's living museum
is where we're headed next.

'from Stockholm's living museum
is where we're headed next.

'from Stockholm's living museum
is where we're headed next.

'We'll be transported back 400 years
in time to August 1628,

'We'll be transported back 400 years
in time to August 1628,

'We'll be transported back 400 years
in time to August 1628,

'when a mighty seafaring vessel
was launched just north of here,

'when a mighty seafaring vessel
was launched just north of here,

'when a mighty seafaring vessel
was launched just north of here,

'commissioned by a great king
of Sweden, Gustavus Adolphus.'

'commissioned by a great king
of Sweden, Gustavus Adolphus.'

'commissioned by a great king
of Sweden, Gustavus Adolphus.'

Imagine the pride of Sweden

Imagine the pride of Sweden

when it built the greatest warship
ever seen in history.

when it built the greatest warship
ever seen in history.

69m long, 50m from keel
to the top of the mast,

69m long, 50m from keel
to the top of the mast,

69m long, 50m from keel
to the top of the mast,

weighing 1,200 tonnes,
bristling with cannon.

weighing 1,200 tonnes,
bristling with cannon.

At the front, a four-metre lion

representing the power
of the Swedish king.

representing the power
of the Swedish king.

And the Vasa set sail
on the 10th of August, 1628,

And the Vasa set sail
on the 10th of August, 1628,

from the palace docks in Stockholm
and travelled 1,300m,

from the palace docks in Stockholm
and travelled 1,300m,

from the palace docks in Stockholm
and travelled 1,300m,

when, to the shrieks and horror
of the crowd,

when, to the shrieks and horror
of the crowd,

a gust of wind caught it.

It began to tip,
the open gunports filled with water,

It began to tip,
the open gunports filled with water,

and it sank!

The shortest ever naval career.

The shortest ever naval career.

This is one of Stockholm's
most visited treasures,

This is one of Stockholm's
most visited treasures,

and it's been on my bucket list
for years.

and it's been on my bucket list
for years.

HE CHUCKLES

But not nearly as many as it spent
sunk deep beneath the waves.

But not nearly as many as it spent
sunk deep beneath the waves.

But not nearly as many as it spent
sunk deep beneath the waves.

I think they say shiver my timbers.
It's absolutely stunning.

I think they say shiver my timbers.
It's absolutely stunning.

I think they say shiver my timbers.
It's absolutely stunning.

This colossal vessel, the Vasa,
lives again.

This colossal vessel, the Vasa,
lives again.

It sank to the bottom of an icy sea,
so icy that worms and microbes

It sank to the bottom of an icy sea,
so icy that worms and microbes

It sank to the bottom of an icy sea,
so icy that worms and microbes

are very, very few
in that environment.

And so the woodwork
wasn't eaten away.

And so the woodwork
wasn't eaten away.

And in 1961, another extraordinary
crowd assembled to watch this thing,

And in 1961, another extraordinary
crowd assembled to watch this thing,

And in 1961, another extraordinary
crowd assembled to watch this thing,

And in 1961, another extraordinary
crowd assembled to watch this thing,

this huge hulk...
lifted out of the water.

this huge hulk...
lifted out of the water.

this huge hulk...
lifted out of the water.

And people must be absolutely
stunned by its completeness,

And people must be absolutely
stunned by its completeness,

And people must be absolutely
stunned by its completeness,

as though it had gone down
a few days before,

rather than centuries.

And you just can't get over
how intact it is.

And you just can't get over
how intact it is.

What a great slab of history.

What a great slab of history.

No wonder Sweden was proud.

It is indeed, even now,
a mighty warship.

It is indeed, even now,
a mighty warship.

After over 330 years
on the sea floor,

After over 330 years
on the sea floor,

After over 330 years
on the sea floor,

the mighty Vasa had to be
continuously sprayed with chemicals,

the mighty Vasa had to be
continuously sprayed with chemicals,

used to preserve waterlogged wood,
for a period of 17 years.

used to preserve waterlogged wood,
for a period of 17 years.

used to preserve waterlogged wood,
for a period of 17 years.

What a thing.

Today, the ship is still carefully
preserved in controlled conditions,

Today, the ship is still carefully
preserved in controlled conditions,

Today, the ship is still carefully
preserved in controlled conditions,

around 18 degrees and 55% humidity.

around 18 degrees and 55% humidity.

These carvings adorn the ship,

These carvings adorn the ship,

and they were all about the glory
of Swedish monarchs,

and they were all about the glory
of Swedish monarchs,

and they were all about the glory
of Swedish monarchs,

and in particular,

they asserted the legitimacy
of Gustav II Adolf,

they asserted the legitimacy
of Gustav II Adolf,

they asserted the legitimacy
of Gustav II Adolf,

the king of the day.

And it was alleged
that some decisions by the king

And it was alleged
that some decisions by the king

had played their part
in the catastrophe.

had played their part
in the catastrophe.

But there was an inquiry,

But there was an inquiry,

and it was discovered
that the only person to blame

and it was discovered
that the only person to blame

was the ship's architect,
who, by then, was long dead.

was the ship's architect,
who, by then, was long dead.

was the ship's architect,
who, by then, was long dead.

And so this was a work of flattery,
and this was a work of vanity.

And so this was a work of flattery,
and this was a work of vanity.

And so this was a work of flattery,
and this was a work of vanity.

And after pride comes a sinking.

And after pride comes a sinking.

As dusk falls on my final night
in Stockholm,

As dusk falls on my final night
in Stockholm,

I head to a bar that was
originally carved from river ice

I head to a bar that was
originally carved from river ice

I head to a bar that was
originally carved from river ice

124 miles north
of the Arctic Circle.

124 miles north
of the Arctic Circle.

Let me take you for a drink at
the coolest watering hole in town.

Let me take you for a drink at
the coolest watering hole in town.

Let me take you for a drink at
the coolest watering hole in town.

I've tracked down a Stockholm haunt
where even on a cold day,

I've tracked down a Stockholm haunt
where even on a cold day,

I've tracked down a Stockholm haunt
where even on a cold day,

it's colder inside than out.

it's colder inside than out.

Brr. The airlock
into Stockholm's ICEBAR.

Brr. The airlock
into Stockholm's ICEBAR.

Brr. The airlock
into Stockholm's ICEBAR.

A frozen world, set at -7C,

A frozen world, set at -7C,

A frozen world, set at -7C,

of glacial bubbles and igloos
and, I hope, cool cocktails.

of glacial bubbles and igloos
and, I hope, cool cocktails.

of glacial bubbles and igloos
and, I hope, cool cocktails.

of glacial bubbles and igloos
and, I hope, cool cocktails.

'First opened as part
of an ice hotel in northern Sweden,

'First opened as part
of an ice hotel in northern Sweden,

'First opened as part
of an ice hotel in northern Sweden,

'Stockholm's ICEBAR
has been serving locals and tourists

'Stockholm's ICEBAR
has been serving locals and tourists

'for more than 20 years.

'for more than 20 years.

'One of the men responsible
for carving and creating it

'One of the men responsible
for carving and creating it

'is sculptor Peter.'

Hello.
Hello.

Peter. How nice to see you.
Yeah, nice to see you, too.

Peter. How nice to see you.
Yeah, nice to see you, too.

The bar is made of ice.
Yes.

The bar is made of ice.
Yes.

The seats are made of ice.
Yes.

Where does all this ice come from?

It's come from Torne River,
actually. Yes.

It's come from Torne River,
actually. Yes.

Up north in Sweden. Yeah.

So you don't
actually manufacture the ice.

So you don't
actually manufacture the ice.

You actually bring natural ice
from a river?

You actually bring natural ice
from a river?

That's true. Yeah. We pick up
big chunks of ice, like, 1.6 tonne,

That's true. Yeah. We pick up
big chunks of ice, like, 1.6 tonne,

That's true. Yeah. We pick up
big chunks of ice, like, 1.6 tonne,

and then we cut it down
in smaller pieces,

and then we cut it down
in smaller pieces,

bring it down here
and build up the bar.

bring it down here
and build up the bar.

Cheers. Of course,
our glasses are made of ice as well.

Cheers. Of course,
our glasses are made of ice as well.

Yeah. Of course.

Mm. It's nice.
Quite cold on the lips.

Mm. It's nice.
Quite cold on the lips.

Yeah.

'Like the ice hotel up north,

'Like the ice hotel up north,

'which melts each spring
and is rebuilt every winter,

'which melts each spring
and is rebuilt every winter,

'which melts each spring
and is rebuilt every winter,

'Stockholm's ICEBAR
is reborn annually

'Stockholm's ICEBAR
is reborn annually

'from 40 tonnes of fresh ice calved
from the frozen River Torne.'

'from 40 tonnes of fresh ice calved
from the frozen River Torne.'

'from 40 tonnes of fresh ice calved
from the frozen River Torne.'

And these bars are pretty popular,
are they?They are.

And these bars are pretty popular,
are they?They are.

Especially in the summertime
when people come up here,

Especially in the summertime
when people come up here,

it's... the contrast is beautiful.

it's... the contrast is beautiful.

Of course, if you're coming in
from 35 degrees.Exactly.

Of course, if you're coming in
from 35 degrees.Exactly.

And then you get in here,

it's like, "Oh, how nice,"
you can stand there forever.

it's like, "Oh, how nice,"
you can stand there forever.

As long as you dress for it.
Yeah.

Let me just try, erm, move my glass.

Let me just try, erm, move my glass.

You wanna meet me in the middle?
Let's try that. Here goes.

You wanna meet me in the middle?
Let's try that. Here goes.

Yay.
Nice.

Yay.
Nice.

Are you able to show me a little bit
of how you do your work?

Are you able to show me a little bit
of how you do your work?

Yeah, I could actually invite you

to carve a little bit,
if you like to.

to carve a little bit,
if you like to.

Yeah, I'd love to. Let's just
finish our drinks...Yeah.

Yeah, I'd love to. Let's just
finish our drinks...Yeah.

..cos I think I'm gonna need
all the fortification I can get.

..cos I think I'm gonna need
all the fortification I can get.

OK, cool.

OK.
Good.

Let's go, then.
Let's go.

'During winter, Peter's workshop
is in the open on the terrace,

'During winter, Peter's workshop
is in the open on the terrace,

'During winter, Peter's workshop
is in the open on the terrace,

'where temperatures rarely exceed
two degrees.'

'where temperatures rarely exceed
two degrees.'

Temperature here is pretty good,
is it, for you?

Temperature here is pretty good,
is it, for you?

Yeah, I think it's quite all right.

So, we have the sharp end
of this tool here, the chisel.

So, we have the sharp end
of this tool here, the chisel.

So, we have the sharp end
of this tool here, the chisel.

There are two sides of it,
it's a flat side here,

There are two sides of it,
it's a flat side here,

which it makes straight lines.
Yeah.

And the angle side,
you make the deep cuts like that.

And the angle side,
you make the deep cuts like that.

And the angle side,
you make the deep cuts like that.

Then we're gonna make
some drawing of the ice

Then we're gonna make
some drawing of the ice

because I think, er...
OK.

because I think, er...
OK.

What do you reckon? I think a fish
would be fine to do.

What do you reckon? I think a fish
would be fine to do.

A fish? Sounds ambitious to me,
but, yes, let's go.

A fish? Sounds ambitious to me,
but, yes, let's go.

OK, so, we make some lines
like this.

OK, so, we make some lines
like this.

It's gonna be the fin here.

It's gonna be the fin here.

You're just taking the ice
away here.Yes.

So, if you take it
all the way down...

So, I try to shape the head here.

So, I try to shape the head here.

I'm just chopping away
some of the excess ice.

I'm just chopping away
some of the excess ice.

And creating, like,
a waterfall coming up here.

And creating, like,
a waterfall coming up here.

Ah, I'm creating a waterfall.
I didn't know that.

Ah, I'm creating a waterfall.
I didn't know that.

I'm a sort of glacial Michelangelo.
PETER LAUGHS

I'm a sort of glacial Michelangelo.
PETER LAUGHS

'It takes a team of seven sculptors
around ten days

'It takes a team of seven sculptors
around ten days

'to build the ice bar from scratch.

'to build the ice bar from scratch.

'And I can see how it might,
as I watch our fish take shape.'

'And I can see how it might,
as I watch our fish take shape.'

'And I can see how it might,
as I watch our fish take shape.'

So, the fish is curving
all the way around here now?

So, the fish is curving
all the way around here now?

That's right, yes.
Lovely, lovely.

Once you've made this sculpture,
how long do you think it will last?

Once you've made this sculpture,
how long do you think it will last?

A couple of hours. Or maybe
till the next day if it's cold.

A couple of hours. Or maybe
till the next day if it's cold.

Oh, my goodness. And you don't mind
putting all this work in

Oh, my goodness. And you don't mind
putting all this work in

for something that lasts
such a short time?

No, actually, I love to do it.

No, actually, I love to do it.

That's the main thing about it,
to create it.

That's the main thing about it,
to create it.

Is this quite a competitive field,
Peter?

You can actually do
some competitions with it.

You can actually do
some competitions with it.

For example, when I was in Turin,
they do the Olympics.

For example, when I was in Turin,
they do the Olympics.

I was... Yeah, it was fun,
and I made a torch.

I was... Yeah, it was fun,
and I made a torch.

It's about two-metres high.

It's about two-metres high.

Do you get nervous
when you're competing?

Do you get nervous
when you're competing?

In the beginning, yes,
but as soon as you start to carve,

In the beginning, yes,
but as soon as you start to carve,

you forget about everything.

You're just absorbed.
Yeah.

And you forget the time,

and someone have to tap you
on the shoulder and say,

"You have to eat today,"
things like that.

"You have to eat today,"
things like that.

MICHAEL LAUGHS

The skin looks beautiful here. Yeah.

The skin looks beautiful here. Yeah.

What do you think?

Well, I think
we have a fish emerging,

Well, I think
we have a fish emerging,

with its beautiful fins here
and its head and its gills.

with its beautiful fins here
and its head and its gills.

You did a great job.
THEY LAUGH

You did a great job.
THEY LAUGH

With some help.
I did nothing.

It's quite beautiful
if you see it from here.

It's quite beautiful
if you see it from here.

And it's getting lovelier as it gets
more glisten-y and more glassy.

And it's getting lovelier as it gets
more glisten-y and more glassy.

Yeah.
Beautiful.

Well done.
Good job. Thank you very much.

Well done.
Good job. Thank you very much.

I'm going to have to find
an "ice" place to put this.

I'm going to have to find
an "ice" place to put this.

'Coming up, I stumble
across England's patron saint

'Coming up, I stumble
across England's patron saint

'in a most unexpected place...'

'in a most unexpected place...'

Oh, Kristina.

Oh, Kristina.

An enormous Saint George
and a terrifying dragon.

An enormous Saint George
and a terrifying dragon.

'..and enjoy a final farewell fika.'

'..and enjoy a final farewell fika.'

Would they come together
in the morning for fika?

Would they come together
in the morning for fika?

You have the lunch
in the middle of the day.

And in the morning, and in
the afternoon, you have the fika.

And in the morning, and in
the afternoon, you have the fika.

Do you ever do any work?

'My long weekend in Stockholm
is almost over,

'My long weekend in Stockholm
is almost over,

'My long weekend in Stockholm
is almost over,

'but there's still time
to squeeze in a couple of treasures.

'but there's still time
to squeeze in a couple of treasures.

'Returning to the medieval heart
of Gamla Stan,

'Returning to the medieval heart
of Gamla Stan,

'at the far end of the Royal Palace,
I'm in search of Storkyrkan,

'at the far end of the Royal Palace,
I'm in search of Storkyrkan,

'at the far end of the Royal Palace,
I'm in search of Storkyrkan,

'Stockholm's
13th-century cathedral.'

'Stockholm's
13th-century cathedral.'

The religious centre of Stockholm
has been a church,

The religious centre of Stockholm
has been a church,

a great church,
a basilica and a cathedral.

a great church,
a basilica and a cathedral.

It has survived the Reformation,
and today is in the pink.

It has survived the Reformation,
and today is in the pink.

It has survived the Reformation,
and today is in the pink.

'From the outside,

'you wouldn't know that
this is Stockholm's oldest building.

'you wouldn't know that
this is Stockholm's oldest building.

'The exterior was refurbished
in the 18th century.

'The exterior was refurbished
in the 18th century.

'The interior,
around 500 years older,

'The interior,
around 500 years older,

'draws the crowds.

'Magnificent vaulted ceilings,
intricate columns

'Magnificent vaulted ceilings,
intricate columns

'Magnificent vaulted ceilings,
intricate columns

'and one of the earliest depictions
of the city itself

'and one of the earliest depictions
of the city itself

'are amongst Sweden's
finest examples

'are amongst Sweden's
finest examples

'of medieval architecture and art.

'of medieval architecture and art.

'The top attraction, however,

'is a figure tightly bound
to English identity.

'is a figure tightly bound
to English identity.

'The chaplain, Kristina,
has the explanation.'

'The chaplain, Kristina,
has the explanation.'

Oh, Kristina,

an enormous Saint George
and a terrifying dragon.

an enormous Saint George
and a terrifying dragon.

Yes. Isn't it?

Made out of oak
and elk and reindeer horn.

Made out of oak
and elk and reindeer horn.

Made out of oak
and elk and reindeer horn.

Really?
Yes.

This, then, dates back to when?

This, then, dates back to when?

1489.
That's quite incredible.

1489.
That's quite incredible.

So beautiful, so sophisticated.

So beautiful, so sophisticated.

'George is England's patron saint,

'George is England's patron saint,

'but he was neither English
nor a knight.

'but he was neither English
nor a knight.

'He was probably a Roman officer
who died a Christian martyr.

'He was probably a Roman officer
who died a Christian martyr.

'He was probably a Roman officer
who died a Christian martyr.

'And England shares him
as patron saint

'And England shares him
as patron saint

'with Genoa, Ethiopia,
Georgia and Catalonia.'

'with Genoa, Ethiopia,
Georgia and Catalonia.'

'with Genoa, Ethiopia,
Georgia and Catalonia.'

I suppose people come
from all over to see your dragon

I suppose people come
from all over to see your dragon

and your Saint George.
That's right.

and your Saint George.
That's right.

I say,
when we have too many tourists,

I say,
when we have too many tourists,

they rush over to this corner
to see Saint George and the dragon.

they rush over to this corner
to see Saint George and the dragon.

they rush over to this corner
to see Saint George and the dragon.

The story is about Saint George.

The story is about Saint George.

He'd come to believe in God,

He'd come to believe in God,

and he was out to do good things
for the world.

and he was out to do good things
for the world.

And then he met this little princess
outside the wall in tears,

And then he met this little princess
outside the wall in tears,

And then he met this little princess
outside the wall in tears,

And then he met this little princess
outside the wall in tears,

because she should be the next meal
for this horrible dragon.

because she should be the next meal
for this horrible dragon.

because she should be the next meal
for this horrible dragon.

That was a threat to the city.

That was a threat to the city.

And he said, "I'll save you,
and I'll save the city."

And he said, "I'll save you,
and I'll save the city."

And he said, "I'll save you,
and I'll save the city."

And this is the last battle.

And this is the last battle.

This visit has been full
of surprises.

I never expected to come across
a Saint George

I never expected to come across
a Saint George

and a terrifying dragon.

There are surprises in life.

'Before my flight home,
I returned to the island

'Before my flight home,
I returned to the island

'where my long weekend began,
Sodermalm.

'where my long weekend began,
Sodermalm.

'I'm in search of a daily ritual
that the Swedes take very seriously.

'I'm in search of a daily ritual
that the Swedes take very seriously.

'I'm in search of a daily ritual
that the Swedes take very seriously.

'I've heard about it all weekend

'I've heard about it all weekend

'and have saved it
for my final adventure.

'and have saved it
for my final adventure.

'I'm fixated to find why
there's a fervent fuss about fika.'

'I'm fixated to find why
there's a fervent fuss about fika.'

'I'm fixated to find why
there's a fervent fuss about fika.'

British industrial relations
between employers and trades unions

British industrial relations
between employers and trades unions

British industrial relations
between employers and trades unions

used to be dogged by disputes
over the tea break.

used to be dogged by disputes
over the tea break.

But when it comes
to the institutionalised moment

But when it comes
to the institutionalised moment

for rest and restoration,
the Swedish win the prize.

for rest and restoration,
the Swedish win the prize.

for rest and restoration,
the Swedish win the prize.

And here, it's called fika,
every day of the working week-a.

And here, it's called fika,
every day of the working week-a.

And here, it's called fika,
every day of the working week-a.

Hello.

Hello.
Hello.

'Alfred and Dana opened
their cafe-bakery three years ago.'

'Alfred and Dana opened
their cafe-bakery three years ago.'

'Alfred and Dana opened
their cafe-bakery three years ago.'

What a beautiful display
of baked goods.Thank you.

What a beautiful display
of baked goods.Thank you.

And the smell?
The smell is marvellous.

We bake everything
just five metres behind you, so...

We bake everything
just five metres behind you, so...

Yeah, of course.
It's really fresh.

I've come to investigate the fika.

I've come to investigate the fika.

Oh, maybe, like, the most important
thing in Swedish culture

Oh, maybe, like, the most important
thing in Swedish culture

is when people, almost every day,
come together to drink coffee

is when people, almost every day,
come together to drink coffee

is when people, almost every day,
come together to drink coffee

and eat like anything you want
of this.

and eat like anything you want
of this.

Most traditionally this season
is the semla

Most traditionally this season
is the semla

that people go crazy about
at the moment.

that people go crazy about
at the moment.

'To enjoy fika is one
of Sweden's most cherished customs.

'To enjoy fika is one
of Sweden's most cherished customs.

'To enjoy fika is one
of Sweden's most cherished customs.

'It's much more
than just a coffee break.

'It's much more
than just a coffee break.

'The social side
is equally important

'The social side
is equally important

'and requires you
to disconnect from work.'

'and requires you
to disconnect from work.'

Would they come together
in the morning for fika?

It can be any time,

but usually, like, you have lunch
in the middle of the day,

but usually, like, you have lunch
in the middle of the day,

and in the morning and
in the afternoon, you have the fika.

and in the morning and
in the afternoon, you have the fika.

So, wait a minute, you have a fika
in the morning, a lunch,

So, wait a minute, you have a fika
in the morning, a lunch,

and then a fika in the afternoon.
Do you ever do any work?

and then a fika in the afternoon.
Do you ever do any work?

It's a nice just few hours chatting
with your friends or colleagues,

It's a nice just few hours chatting
with your friends or colleagues,

having a good coffee or a pastry.

having a good coffee or a pastry.

Well, look, I'm very interested

in trying this important
Swedish cultural custom.

in trying this important
Swedish cultural custom.

Yeah.
So, may I have a coffee?

Yeah.
So, may I have a coffee?

And then which cake
were you recommending?

And then which cake
were you recommending?

I think you have to try the semla.
It's like a fluffy bun.

I think you have to try the semla.
It's like a fluffy bun.

Here, we do our own almond paste.

Here, we do our own almond paste.

The cream that we have on top,

it's actually
from Alfred's parent's farm.

it's actually
from Alfred's parent's farm.

So, this is your family's
farm's milk?

So, this is your family's
farm's milk?

Yeah, it feels really good
to have the best quality products,

Yeah, it feels really good
to have the best quality products,

and it makes a difference
in the taste. Yeah.

and it makes a difference
in the taste. Yeah.

It sounds wonderful.

'Semla buns are iconic in Sweden.

'Semla buns are iconic in Sweden.

'At one time, they were eaten
only on Shrove Tuesday.

'At one time, they were eaten
only on Shrove Tuesday.

'Today, Swedes consume them
any time after Christmas.

'Today, Swedes consume them
any time after Christmas.

'Dana and Alfred sell buns freshly
made on the premises every morning.

'Dana and Alfred sell buns freshly
made on the premises every morning.

'Dana and Alfred sell buns freshly
made on the premises every morning.

'Armed with my hot drink and bun...'

'Armed with my hot drink and bun...'

Hey.
Hi.

'..it's time for me to engage
in coffee, cake and conversation.

'..it's time for me to engage
in coffee, cake and conversation.

'..it's time for me to engage
in coffee, cake and conversation.

'That is to fika like a local.'

'That is to fika like a local.'

Do you find it easy
to work in a cafe?

Do you find it easy
to work in a cafe?

My workplace is very flexible.

My workplace is very flexible.

Yeah.
And I have three small kids.

Yeah.
And I have three small kids.

Oh, my goodness, where are they
at the moment?Kindergarten.

Oh, my goodness, where are they
at the moment?Kindergarten.

Excellent.

In Sweden, you know, when they turn
one, you can go to kindergarten.

In Sweden, you know, when they turn
one, you can go to kindergarten.

Are you paying for that?
300 euro per month for three kids.

Are you paying for that?
300 euro per month for three kids.

Are you paying for that?
300 euro per month for three kids.

Yeah, that's fantastic value,
isn't it?Yeah. Yes. It's amazing.

Yeah, that's fantastic value,
isn't it?Yeah. Yes. It's amazing.

And all part of the Swedish
mentality of supporting the family.

And all part of the Swedish
mentality of supporting the family.

Yeah, yeah. Yes. All the people
I know, they work a lot,

Yeah, yeah. Yes. All the people
I know, they work a lot,

but they also have a lot
of free time.

Look at you and me
with our semla buns.

Look at you and me
with our semla buns.

And I'm sorry to have disturbed you.
No, it's been nice talking to you.

And I'm sorry to have disturbed you.
No, it's been nice talking to you.

To be honest with you,

I don't often give a lot of thought
to what I'm eating.

I don't often give a lot of thought
to what I'm eating.

But before tackling my semla bun,

But before tackling my semla bun,

I heard from Alfred and Dana
about how proud they are of it,

I heard from Alfred and Dana
about how proud they are of it,

I heard from Alfred and Dana
about how proud they are of it,

that everything is done here
on the premises,

that they make
their own almond paste,

that the milk has come
from Alfred's family's farm

that the milk has come
from Alfred's family's farm

in the north of Sweden.

And now I'm tackling my bun
with real respect.

And now I'm tackling my bun
with real respect.

And now I'm tackling my bun
with real respect.

'I was really looking forward
to discovering the real Stockholm

'I was really looking forward
to discovering the real Stockholm

'I was really looking forward
to discovering the real Stockholm

'on my long weekend.'

My goodness, we are on the ice!

My goodness, we are on the ice!

'It's surpassed
my highest expectations.'

'It's surpassed
my highest expectations.'

I think I shall always
remember this.

This is a beautiful moment.

'Come prepared...'

For your winter break in Stockholm,
wear thermals.

For your winter break in Stockholm,
wear thermals.

A week ago, the temperature was -17.

A week ago, the temperature was -17.

A week ago, the temperature was -17.

'..and embrace
the Swedish way of life...'

'..and embrace
the Swedish way of life...'

Have you baked before?
Hardly.

Have you baked before?
Hardly.

THEY LAUGH

The Swedes fight back
against the cold by eating buns...

The Swedes fight back
against the cold by eating buns...

The Swedes fight back
against the cold by eating buns...

It's so lovely.

'..herring...'

This is food at its best.

This is food at its best.

'..and meatballs.'

It's in our blood.
It's in your blood?

It's in our blood.
It's in your blood?

..by downing schnapps...

Mild fire.

..and engaging in vigorous sports.

Oh! Oh!

Oh! Oh!

That's great.

The city has beautiful buildings...

The city has beautiful buildings...

Oh, my. This is astonishing.

Oh, my. This is astonishing.

HE LAUGHS

'..and museums
that cover Swedish culture,

'..and museums
that cover Swedish culture,

'from the Vikings...'

Oh, my word.

'..to ABBA
and everything in between.'

'..to ABBA
and everything in between.'

I think they say shiver my timbers.

I think they say shiver my timbers.

It's absolutely stunning.

It's absolutely stunning.

The vibe is chill,

The vibe is chill,

but the welcome will send you home
with a little sauna in your heart.

but the welcome will send you home
with a little sauna in your heart.

but the welcome will send you home
with a little sauna in your heart.

Skol.
Skol.