All language subtitles for Michael.Portillo.in.Stockholm.S01E01.1080p.HDTV.H264-DARKFLiX.en

Come with me as I take you
to some of my favourite cities

Come with me as I take you
to some of my favourite cities

on a long weekend.

Buongiorno tutti.

'Together, we'll explore
the places I love.'

'Together, we'll explore
the places I love.'

Oh, Palermo, what a beauty you are.

Oh, Palermo, what a beauty you are.

Oh, Palermo, what a beauty you are.

Oh, my word.
Madrid is next to heaven.

Oh, my word.
Madrid is next to heaven.

Oh, my word.
Madrid is next to heaven.

'And discover places new.'

'And discover places new.'

We put the vroom-vroom into Milano.

We put the vroom-vroom into Milano.

Oh, my. This is astonishing.

Oh, my. This is astonishing.

From Stockholm to Lisbon,
we'll raise a glass.

From Stockholm to Lisbon,
we'll raise a glass.

Saude.
Saude.

And enjoy great food.

And enjoy great food.

Mmm. Pork that melts in your mouth.

Mmm. Pork that melts in your mouth.

I don't think there's
any delicate way of eating it.

I don't think there's
any delicate way of eating it.

Oh...
SHE CHUCKLES

Oh...
SHE CHUCKLES

'We'll leave the tourist trail
behind.'

'We'll leave the tourist trail
behind.'

Every bone in my body
has been shaken.

Every bone in my body
has been shaken.

My goodness. We are on the ice.
Yes.

My goodness. We are on the ice.
Yes.

Oh, my word. We are tacking.

Oh, my word. We are tacking.

'And seek out special places
to stay.'

'And seek out special places
to stay.'

The view of Prague is magnificent.

The view of Prague is magnificent.

The view of Prague is magnificent.

'Along the way,
we'll make new friends.'

'Along the way,
we'll make new friends.'

Ciao, ciao!

Ciao, ciao!

Do you mind if we do a selfie?
Oh, really?

Do you mind if we do a selfie?
Oh, really?

'And memories to last a lifetime.'

'And memories to last a lifetime.'

Oh! Oh!
That's great!

Oh! Oh!
That's great!

I think I shall always remember
this. This is a beautiful moment.

I think I shall always remember
this. This is a beautiful moment.

I have rarely seen such opulence.

I have rarely seen such opulence.

What an amazing sight.

What an amazing sight.

I am loving this.
I can't wait to show you more.

I am loving this.
I can't wait to show you more.

I am loving this.
I can't wait to show you more.

CAR HORN HONKS

'Welcome to a capital city

'Welcome to a capital city

'whose beautiful buildings
are reflected

'whose beautiful buildings
are reflected

'in intensely blue waters...

'..but which is not mobbed
by visitors.

'..but which is not mobbed
by visitors.

'Stockholm in Sweden.

'Stockholm in Sweden.

'Around 500 miles south
of the Arctic Circle,

'Around 500 miles south
of the Arctic Circle,

'Around 500 miles south
of the Arctic Circle,

'Stockholm is 2.5 hours
from Britain.

'Stockholm is 2.5 hours
from Britain.

'The city is set
between a sprawling freshwater lake

'The city is set
between a sprawling freshwater lake

'The city is set
between a sprawling freshwater lake

'and the Baltic Sea, spread
across a patchwork of islands,

'and the Baltic Sea, spread
across a patchwork of islands,

'and the Baltic Sea, spread
across a patchwork of islands,

'making it one of the most exciting
places to explore

'making it one of the most exciting
places to explore

'making it one of the most exciting
places to explore

'on a long weekend.'

I have arrived in Stockholm
armed not with a guidebook

I have arrived in Stockholm
armed not with a guidebook

so much as preconceptions.

From Scandinavia, marauding Vikings
raided the British Isles.

From Scandinavia, marauding Vikings
raided the British Isles.

From Scandinavia, marauding Vikings
raided the British Isles.

This is the land of ABBA,

the smorgasbord
and flat-packed furniture.

the smorgasbord
and flat-packed furniture.

Here, the winter nights
and summer days are endless.

Here, the winter nights
and summer days are endless.

Here, the winter nights
and summer days are endless.

Stockholm gave its name
to a hostage syndrome,

Stockholm gave its name
to a hostage syndrome,

and it hosts the annual award
of the Nobel Prizes.

and it hosts the annual award
of the Nobel Prizes.

and it hosts the annual award
of the Nobel Prizes.

It is the city of the Royal Family,
equipped with palace and cathedral.

It is the city of the Royal Family,
equipped with palace and cathedral.

It is the city of the Royal Family,
equipped with palace and cathedral.

Let us brace ourselves
against the cold,

Let us brace ourselves
against the cold,

and, like warriors of old,

and, like warriors of old,

don our horned helmets
for a voyage of discovery.

don our horned helmets
for a voyage of discovery.

don our horned helmets
for a voyage of discovery.

We have much to learn.

'This is my first return
in more than two decades.

'This is my first return
in more than two decades.

'A long weekend of Scandinavian
rediscovery lies ahead...'

'A long weekend of Scandinavian
rediscovery lies ahead...'

I have not had this much fun
since I was five.

I have not had this much fun
since I was five.

SHE LAUGHS
'..promising Nordic hospitality...'

SHE LAUGHS
'..promising Nordic hospitality...'

Ah, the faithful Stefan. Hello.
Hello.

Ah, the faithful Stefan. Hello.
Hello.

'..fiery spirits...'
Shall we have another go?

'..fiery spirits...'
Shall we have another go?

Well, I reckon.

'..the Midas touch...'

Oh, my. This is astonishing.
HE CHUCKLES

Oh, my. This is astonishing.
HE CHUCKLES

Oh, my. This is astonishing.
HE CHUCKLES

'..and the clash of the icemen.'
Oh! Oh! Oh!

'..and the clash of the icemen.'
Oh! Oh! Oh!

'..and the clash of the icemen.'
Oh! Oh! Oh!

Oh-ho! It's the Stockholm bloodbath.

Oh-ho! It's the Stockholm bloodbath.

Oh-ho! It's the Stockholm bloodbath.

'Today, we'll immerse ourselves
in Swedish tradition...'

'Today, we'll immerse ourselves
in Swedish tradition...'

Oh, my word.

'..backstage at a royal banquet
fit for a king,

'..backstage at a royal banquet
fit for a king,

'..backstage at a royal banquet
fit for a king,

'queen, and visiting president.'

'queen, and visiting president.'

You know, I've been to state
banquets in Buckingham Palace.

You know, I've been to state
banquets in Buckingham Palace.

Mm-hm? I don't think
I've ever seen a table this big.

Mm-hm? I don't think
I've ever seen a table this big.

'We'll toast
with Sweden's national drink.'

'We'll toast
with Sweden's national drink.'

Jag alskar dig.
It means "I love you".

Jag alskar dig.
It means "I love you".

You're so kind.
I've only just arrived!

You're so kind.
I've only just arrived!

'And explore
the breath-taking beauty.'

'And explore
the breath-taking beauty.'

My goodness. We are on the ice.

My goodness. We are on the ice.

'..of Stockholm's
island archipelago.'

'..of Stockholm's
island archipelago.'

I think I shall always remember
this. This is a beautiful moment.

I think I shall always remember
this. This is a beautiful moment.

Skal.
Skal.

'I remember Stockholm as a relaxed,
easy-going city.

'I remember Stockholm as a relaxed,
easy-going city.

'I remember Stockholm as a relaxed,
easy-going city.

'Fewer than 2.5 million
international visitors

'Fewer than 2.5 million
international visitors

'overnight here per year.

'overnight here per year.

'It's never too crowded,
and in mid-winter, even less so.

'It's never too crowded,
and in mid-winter, even less so.

'It's never too crowded,
and in mid-winter, even less so.

'We have the place to ourselves,
but we must wrap up.'

'We have the place to ourselves,
but we must wrap up.'

'We have the place to ourselves,
but we must wrap up.'

A week ago,
the temperature was -17,

A week ago,
the temperature was -17,

A week ago,
the temperature was -17,

and snow came tumbling down aplenty.

and snow came tumbling down aplenty.

And now there's lots
of impacted ice.

'A long weekend begins on the
central city island of Sodermalm,

'A long weekend begins on the
central city island of Sodermalm,

'where I'm in search of a warming
food and Swedish hospitality.'

'where I'm in search of a warming
food and Swedish hospitality.'

'where I'm in search of a warming
food and Swedish hospitality.'

I'm in a part of Stockholm
called Sodermalm.

I'm in a part of Stockholm
called Sodermalm.

These blocks of flats were
constructed for the working class.

These blocks of flats were
constructed for the working class.

But the whole neighbourhood
has now been gentrified

But the whole neighbourhood
has now been gentrified

and is full of hipsters.

I'm attracted
like a moth to a flame.

I'm attracted
like a moth to a flame.

'But it might not look that way.

'Sodermalm is one of Stockholm's
oldest neighbourhoods,

'Sodermalm is one of Stockholm's
oldest neighbourhoods,

'dating to the 13th century.

'dating to the 13th century.

'In a city packed with emporia
offering traditional Swedish fare,

'In a city packed with emporia
offering traditional Swedish fare,

'In a city packed with emporia
offering traditional Swedish fare,

'I hanker for a dish
that we now associate

'I hanker for a dish
that we now associate

'with flat-pack furniture shopping.'

'with flat-pack furniture shopping.'

The time has come
for great balls of meat.

The time has come
for great balls of meat.

Roll up, roll up. Hello.

Roll up, roll up. Hello.

'The average Swede eats hundreds
of kottbullar every year.

'The average Swede eats hundreds
of kottbullar every year.

'The average Swede eats hundreds
of kottbullar every year.

'So I'm joining a table
of fellow hipsters

'So I'm joining a table
of fellow hipsters

'to find out
why they can't get enough of them.'

'to find out
why they can't get enough of them.'

And hello, meatball lovers.
How are you?

And hello, meatball lovers.
How are you?

Very good.
Hi. How are you?

Yeah, well.
Well, I'm Michael, what's your name?

Yeah, well.
Well, I'm Michael, what's your name?

My name is Lucas. Nice to meet you.
Hello, Lucas.

My name is Lucas. Nice to meet you.
Hello, Lucas.

Andreas.
Andreas.

Julia. Nice to meet you.
Julia.

Kristoffer.
Kristoffer.

And Jenny.
And Jenny.

This place is very popular.

I see there's a great queue outside
at the moment.

I see there's a great queue outside
at the moment.

Yeah. It's, like, crowded every day.

'Legend has it
that this much-loved dish

'Legend has it
that this much-loved dish

'was introduced to Sweden
in the 1700s,

'was introduced to Sweden
in the 1700s,

'when King Charles XII
brought back a recipe from Turkey.'

'when King Charles XII
brought back a recipe from Turkey.'

'when King Charles XII
brought back a recipe from Turkey.'

What's the thing with the Swedes
and meatballs?

What's the thing with the Swedes
and meatballs?

Thing with Swedes and meatballs?
It's tradition.

Thing with Swedes and meatballs?
It's tradition.

It's in our blood.

It's in your blood. So, you're
talking about your grandmother,

It's in your blood. So, you're
talking about your grandmother,

your mother cooking meatballs?
Yes. Of course.

your mother cooking meatballs?
Yes. Of course.

Yeah. Do you remember your mother,
your grandmother, anyone making...?

Yeah. Do you remember your mother,
your grandmother, anyone making...?

Of course. Yeah.
I think everyone has.

Yeah.That's, like,
in every Swedish household.

Yeah.That's, like,
in every Swedish household.

Is the eating of meatballs

associated with
any particular occasion?

associated with
any particular occasion?

I don't know, Christmas,
Easter, midsummer?

I don't know, Christmas,
Easter, midsummer?

Yeah, exactly.
Midsummer...

All the holidays.
All the holidays.

All the holidays.
All the holidays.

Every Monday.
Thursdays?

Every Wednesday.
Thursdays. Yeah.

Every Wednesday.
Thursdays. Yeah.

Regular day food. Exactly.
Fridays.

So, meatballs are associated
with holidays,

So, meatballs are associated
with holidays,

and also Mondays,
Wednesdays and Thursdays.

Yeah! OK. Right. So it sounds
like they're eaten quite a lot.

Yeah! OK. Right. So it sounds
like they're eaten quite a lot.

Oh, hello. Come on in. Yes.
There you go.

Oh, hello. Come on in. Yes.
There you go.

Oh, hello. Come on in. Yes.
There you go.

Then we've got the schnapps as well.
Oh, here comes the schnapps.

Then we've got the schnapps as well.
Oh, here comes the schnapps.

It's very nice to meet you guys.
We say skal, don't we, I think?

It's very nice to meet you guys.
We say skal, don't we, I think?

Skal.
Skal, yeah. Skal. Yep. Skal.

Skal.
Skal, yeah. Skal. Yep. Skal.

How do you drink these, guys?
Down in one, or...?

How do you drink these, guys?
Down in one, or...?

No, we do a song first.
Oh, a song.

No, we do a song first.
Oh, a song.

THEY SING
IN SWEDISH

Amazing.

Nice. You did it.
You did it!

Got the rest of today
to work as well.

LAUGHTER
It will be more fun that way.

Whoo!

'The menu includes reindeer,
wild bull, moose,

'The menu includes reindeer,
wild bull, moose,

'The menu includes reindeer,
wild bull, moose,

'even bear in the right season.

'even bear in the right season.

'Head chef and co-owner Mathias

'Head chef and co-owner Mathias

'will teach me
the classic homemade recipe.'

'will teach me
the classic homemade recipe.'

Mathias, you have
all the ingredients here

for some lovely meatballs.

Whose recipe is this?
It's from my grandma.

Whose recipe is this?
It's from my grandma.

We have a 50/50 by beef and pork.

We have a 50/50 by beef and pork.

Instead of just ordinary cream,
we're going to use some cream sauce.

Instead of just ordinary cream,
we're going to use some cream sauce.

We also need some extra flavours.

So that's why I brought
some anchovies.

So that's why I brought
some anchovies.

Well, I love the taste of anchovy.
In the liquid.

And then just put one fillet in.

And then just put one fillet in.

It all smelling great, isn't it?
Some onion.

It all smelling great, isn't it?
Some onion.

What sort of flavours are in there?

It's a little bit of all spice.
Yeah. Yeah, yeah.

It's a little bit of all spice.
Yeah. Yeah, yeah.

And we use it a lot
in the traditional Swedish kitchen.

And we use it a lot
in the traditional Swedish kitchen.

And then we just roll it up.

That's a funny feeling, that,

That's a funny feeling, that,

as you roll the cold meat
in your hands.

as you roll the cold meat
in your hands.

If you make meatballs
with a machine,

I'm sure they all come out
the same size.

If you make them with a Portillo,

If you make them with a Portillo,

they come out
in very different sizes and shapes.

they come out
in very different sizes and shapes.

But I love them.

'While my meatballs sizzle,

'While my meatballs sizzle,

'Mathias prepares a selection
from the menu

'Mathias prepares a selection
from the menu

'for me to blind taste.

'for me to blind taste.

'Can I tell my wild boar
from my elk?'

'Can I tell my wild boar
from my elk?'

These ones look different.

I'm wondering
whether these could be vegetarian.

I'm wondering
whether these could be vegetarian.

It could be.

I guess that that might be lamb.

I am finding this very tricky.

I am finding this very tricky.

I'm very surprised I'm not getting
really strong flavours

I'm very surprised I'm not getting
really strong flavours

of wild boar and, erm...
and reindeer.

of wild boar and, erm...
and reindeer.

Of course, it could be tricky
because we don't...

we don't only use the meat,
we add some flavours. Mm.

we don't only use the meat,
we add some flavours. Mm.

No, it's really defeated me.
I'm gonna say that's reindeer.

No, it's really defeated me.
I'm gonna say that's reindeer.

And I don't think that is elk,
but I'm gonna put elk there.

And I don't think that is elk,
but I'm gonna put elk there.

So, what is the result, Mr Judge?

So, what is the result, Mr Judge?

This one is reindeer,
so we're happy.

This one is reindeer,
so we're happy.

The lamb is actually wild boar.
Oh, dear, oh, dear.

The lamb is actually wild boar.
Oh, dear, oh, dear.

The lamb is actually wild boar.
Oh, dear, oh, dear.

Maybe the veggie was quite easy,
but, yeah, you're right.

Maybe the veggie was quite easy,
but, yeah, you're right.

So I got the veggie right. Good.

And this one is the lamb.
That's the lamb.

And this one is the lamb.
That's the lamb.

And the last one,
we haven't got any flag yet...

And the last one,
we haven't got any flag yet...

Oh.
..because it's... it's yours.

Oh.
..because it's... it's yours.

Oh, it's the one I made.

Which was basically classic,
but with the anchovy.

Which was basically classic,
but with the anchovy.

Yeah. Really classic.
MICHAEL CHUCKLES

Yeah. Really classic.
MICHAEL CHUCKLES

As we say in Britain,
"Good game, good game."

Good game.
THEY LAUGH

Good game.
THEY LAUGH

'Coming up...'

Oh, my word.

'..on the eve
of an official state visit...'

'..on the eve
of an official state visit...'

What a glorious uniform you have.

I see you need a sword
for your duties.Yes.

I see you need a sword
for your duties.Yes.

You never know what happens.

'..I catch a cab
with a difference...'

'..I catch a cab
with a difference...'

I've never before been on a taxi

I've never before been on a taxi

that had to pick its way
between the icebergs.

that had to pick its way
between the icebergs.

'..and on my first night,
venture off the beaten track.'

'..and on my first night,
venture off the beaten track.'

'..and on my first night,
venture off the beaten track.'

A candle in the window.
It offers welcome to the stranger.

A candle in the window.
It offers welcome to the stranger.

MICHAEL PORTILLO: 'It's early
afternoon on my first day

MICHAEL PORTILLO: 'It's early
afternoon on my first day

'in the Swedish capital, Stockholm.

'in the Swedish capital, Stockholm.

'Situated on an archipelago,

'Situated on an archipelago,

'the city is spread
across 14 islands.

'the city is spread
across 14 islands.

'Two thirds of it is given over
to water and green space,

'Two thirds of it is given over
to water and green space,

'making it one of Europe's
least urban cities.

'making it one of Europe's
least urban cities.

'It's surprisingly easy
to navigate on our visit.

'It's surprisingly easy
to navigate on our visit.

'We're spoilt for choice
between subways, buses and trams.

'We're spoilt for choice
between subways, buses and trams.

'We're spoilt for choice
between subways, buses and trams.

'I'd also recommend
hiring a water taxi,

'I'd also recommend
hiring a water taxi,

'perfect for island hopping
around the archipelago.'

'perfect for island hopping
around the archipelago.'

We all love water.

We enjoy watching
its constantly changing light

We enjoy watching
its constantly changing light

and shapes and shadows.

Lucky Stockholm, to be on the sea.

Lucky Stockholm, to be on the sea.

Lucky us to be able
to see the city from the boat.

Lucky us to be able
to see the city from the boat.

As the day goes on, if anything,
the ice is getting thicker.

As the day goes on, if anything,
the ice is getting thicker.

I've never before been on a taxi

I've never before been on a taxi

that had to pick its way
between the icebergs.

that had to pick its way
between the icebergs.

'Across the water from Sodermalm,

'Across the water from Sodermalm,

'on the neighbouring island
of Gamla Stan,

'on the neighbouring island
of Gamla Stan,

'is Stockholm's
oldest neighbourhood.

'is Stockholm's
oldest neighbourhood.

'For many centuries, it was home
to the Swedish royal family.

'For many centuries, it was home
to the Swedish royal family.

'The longest-reigning monarch,
King Carl XVI,

'The longest-reigning monarch,
King Carl XVI,

'is on the throne today.'

Scandinavia has been a region
of kingdoms since time immemorial.

Scandinavia has been a region
of kingdoms since time immemorial.

Scandinavia has been a region
of kingdoms since time immemorial.

Here in Sweden, the royal palace

Here in Sweden, the royal palace

is no longer the home
of His Majesty the King,

is no longer the home
of His Majesty the King,

although his standard flies above.

although his standard flies above.

He drives himself here daily

He drives himself here daily

in his Volvo to his office
to do his official work.

in his Volvo to his office
to do his official work.

But today, His Majesty is preparing
for a state visit.

But today, His Majesty is preparing
for a state visit.

But today, His Majesty is preparing
for a state visit.

'Compared
to some other royal palaces,

'Compared
to some other royal palaces,

'Stockholm's might appear
quite plain on the outside,

'Stockholm's might appear
quite plain on the outside,

'but the guidebook promises
opulence within.

'but the guidebook promises
opulence within.

'Well worth the £17 entrance fee.

'Well worth the £17 entrance fee.

'I'm meeting Kerstin,
who'll guide me

'I'm meeting Kerstin,
who'll guide me

'around the public
and private spaces,

'around the public
and private spaces,

'and she's promised me a surprise.'

'and she's promised me a surprise.'

Kerstin, hello.
Hello. Good to see you, Michael.

Kerstin, hello.
Hello. Good to see you, Michael.

And welcome
to the Royal Palace of Stockholm.

What an honour to be here.

'Just in case we bump
into His Majesty,

'Just in case we bump
into His Majesty,

'I've swapped my gilet
for a jacket and tie.'

'I've swapped my gilet
for a jacket and tie.'

Kerstin, when I arrive
at a magnificent building like this,

Kerstin, when I arrive
at a magnificent building like this,

of course, my first two questions
are, "How big and how old?"

of course, my first two questions
are, "How big and how old?"

Well, it is a huge palace.
It's got more than 600 rooms.

Well, it is a huge palace.
It's got more than 600 rooms.

Well, it is a huge palace.
It's got more than 600 rooms.

And the royal family moved in here
into the palace in 1754.

And the royal family moved in here
into the palace in 1754.

And the royal family moved in here
into the palace in 1754.

This is where they had
the National Library,

This is where they had
the National Library,

also the National Museum,
the Supreme Court...

also the National Museum,
the Supreme Court...

everything was in the same building.

Yeah. And that accounts
for its enormity.Yes.

Yeah. And that accounts
for its enormity.Yes.

'Ever since the palace
was completed in 1754,

'Ever since the palace
was completed in 1754,

'it has played a central role
in Swedish society.

'it has played a central role
in Swedish society.

'Today, much of it is open
to the public all year round.

'Today, much of it is open
to the public all year round.

'Today, much of it is open
to the public all year round.

'A palace for the people.'

This is wonderful.
Stockholm Slott guidebook.

This is wonderful.
Stockholm Slott guidebook.

It's published in 1875,
and it describes this room.

It's published in 1875,
and it describes this room.

It's published in 1875,
and it describes this room.

So it says that it's so fresh
and so shiny.

So it says that it's so fresh
and so shiny.

And it also describes
the king's private rooms,

And it also describes
the king's private rooms,

like his bedroom
and his drawing room.

like his bedroom
and his drawing room.

So people were allowed to come
very close to the royal family.

So people were allowed to come
very close to the royal family.

At some point, the royal family
stopped living here and moved out.

At some point, the royal family
stopped living here and moved out.

Where do they live now?
At Drottningholm.

Where do they live now?
At Drottningholm.

Because when our present
royal family had three children,

Because when our present
royal family had three children,

they wanted to live closer
to the nature.

they wanted to live closer
to the nature.

I mean, this is magnificent,
but not necessarily homely.

I mean, this is magnificent,
but not necessarily homely.

No. Not really.

'Many Swedish families
own a second home,

'Many Swedish families
own a second home,

'a summer house in the countryside.

'a summer house in the countryside.

'The royals are no exception.

'The royals are no exception.

'Drottningholm Palace,
on one of Stockholm's outer islands,

'Drottningholm Palace,
on one of Stockholm's outer islands,

'is now their main residence.

'However, the royal palace
still hosts official engagements

'However, the royal palace
still hosts official engagements

'and visits by heads of state,

'and the first such visit
in over a year

'and the first such visit
in over a year

'just happens to fall
tomorrow night.'

'just happens to fall
tomorrow night.'

Imposing doors.
Yes, very much so.

Imposing doors.
Yes, very much so.

Entrance forbidden.
MICHAEL LAUGHS

But we go in anyway.
Oh, yes.

But we go in anyway.
Oh, yes.

'Time for the surprise
that Kerstin promised.'

'Time for the surprise
that Kerstin promised.'

Oh, my word.
HE LAUGHS

Oh, my word.
HE LAUGHS

What a magnificent sight.

A table that stretches...
to the horizon.

A table that stretches...
to the horizon.

Yes. Four to five metres long.

You know, I've been to state
banquets in Buckingham Palace.

You know, I've been to state
banquets in Buckingham Palace.

Mm-hm? I don't think
I've ever seen a table this big.

Mm-hm? I don't think
I've ever seen a table this big.

'Inspired by the Hall of Mirrors
at Versailles,

'Inspired by the Hall of Mirrors
at Versailles,

'this grand chamber,
one of the palace's most opulent,

'this grand chamber,
one of the palace's most opulent,

'is normally open to the public.

'Filling the room,
this grandiose banqueting table

'Filling the room,
this grandiose banqueting table

'is one of the world's largest.

'is one of the world's largest.

'Responsible for perfecting this
display is Royal Steward Kurt.'

'Responsible for perfecting this
display is Royal Steward Kurt.'

'Responsible for perfecting this
display is Royal Steward Kurt.'

I'm Michael,
how marvellous to see you.

Nice to see you, too.

And what a glorious uniform
you have.

Thank you.

I see you need a sword
for your duties.Yes.

I see you need a sword
for your duties.Yes.

You never know what happens.

No, actually, it's a symbol
for my uniform and my position.

No, actually, it's a symbol
for my uniform and my position.

And forgive me, cos I have come
on a very busy day.

And forgive me, cos I have come
on a very busy day.

You are preparing
for a state banquet.

You are preparing
for a state banquet.

Who's coming?

President Macron. France.
Of France?

President Macron. France.
Of France?

Yes.
Yes.

Now, I assume because I've seen
these preparations elsewhere,

Now, I assume because I've seen
these preparations elsewhere,

that your people have been out
with their measuring tapes.

that your people have been out
with their measuring tapes.

Absolutely. Every single plate.

Absolutely. Every single plate.

How many places have you set
for dinner?

Today, it's actually 170,
which is a record in here.

Today, it's actually 170,
which is a record in here.

'Hosting a dinner like this

'Hosting a dinner like this

'requires the work of 42 footmen
with specific roles.

'requires the work of 42 footmen
with specific roles.

'requires the work of 42 footmen
with specific roles.

'But where royal hospitality
is involved,

'But where royal hospitality
is involved,

'not all place settings are equal.'

'not all place settings are equal.'

Now we've come to a place
where the menu cards are in place,

Now we've come to a place
where the menu cards are in place,

and the napkins are in place.

and the napkins are in place.

Yes. Not on this... This is
actually Princess Sophia's seat.

Yes. Not on this... This is
actually Princess Sophia's seat.

Yes. Not on this... This is
actually Princess Sophia's seat.

Yes.All the royals
have special napkins. Wow.

Yes.All the royals
have special napkins. Wow.

Yes.All the royals
have special napkins. Wow.

'A napkin fit for a king.

'A napkin fit for a king.

'I'm told that how to fold this
gravity-defying piece of table linen

'I'm told that how to fold this
gravity-defying piece of table linen

'I'm told that how to fold this
gravity-defying piece of table linen

'is a closely guarded secret,

'known by only three members
of the royal household,

'known by only three members
of the royal household,

'and it comes with a story.'

The napkin sitting in front of the
plate is symbolic and decorative,

The napkin sitting in front of the
plate is symbolic and decorative,

and the napkin on the plate,

and the napkin on the plate,

folded quite differently
from everybody else's,

folded quite differently
from everybody else's,

is the one that royalty
and the state guests will use.

is the one that royalty
and the state guests will use.

It's quite fantastic.

'Before I leave,
something else catches my eye.'

'Before I leave,
something else catches my eye.'

We also have an egg cup
on this royal setting.

We also have an egg cup
on this royal setting.

Nowadays, we don't have eggs in it.
No.

But it was... If they thought,

"Maybe I can't eat this,
it's poisoned," or whatever.

"Maybe I can't eat this,
it's poisoned," or whatever.

"I can always eat an egg."
Ah. An egg was considered safe.

"I can always eat an egg."
Ah. An egg was considered safe.

"I can always eat an egg."
Ah. An egg was considered safe.

Yes, because you couldn't poison it.

I do hope that you have briefed
the President of France,

I do hope that you have briefed
the President of France,

because otherwise
he may come here tomorrow,

because otherwise
he may come here tomorrow,

see an egg cup
and be very disappointed

if he doesn't have a boiled egg.
Yeah, yeah.

Wow. May I wish you and all
your colleagues all the best.

Wow. May I wish you and all
your colleagues all the best.

Wow. May I wish you and all
your colleagues all the best.

I hope it goes very, very smoothly.
Thank you.

And with luck,
you won't have to use your sword.

And with luck,
you won't have to use your sword.

Hopefully not. Thank you very much.
Thank you.

Hopefully not. Thank you very much.
Thank you.

'Back outside, dusk draws in.

'Back outside, dusk draws in.

'During the winter months,

'Stockholm manages
just six hours of daylight.

'Stockholm manages
just six hours of daylight.

'And it's dark by three o'clock.

'And in the short time
that I've been here,

'And in the short time
that I've been here,

'my perceptions of the city
are changing.'

'my perceptions of the city
are changing.'

Stockholm has the grand buildings
of a capital,

Stockholm has the grand buildings
of a capital,

but the vibe of a town.

but the vibe of a town.

It has the facilities
of a great city,

It has the facilities
of a great city,

but people treat each other with the
warmth of neighbours in a village.

but people treat each other with the
warmth of neighbours in a village.

I am learning to chill out,
and things can only get cooler still

I am learning to chill out,
and things can only get cooler still

I am learning to chill out,
and things can only get cooler still

as we take it easy
on our long weekend.

as we take it easy
on our long weekend.

'During my stay,
I do plan to overnight in the city,

'During my stay,
I do plan to overnight in the city,

'During my stay,
I do plan to overnight in the city,

'but tonight,
I'll emulate those locals

'but tonight,
I'll emulate those locals

'who love to steal away
to a second home

'who love to steal away
to a second home

'or a summer cabin at the weekend.

'or a summer cabin at the weekend.

'Many families have one.'

In that spirit,
I'm going to take a ferry,

In that spirit,
I'm going to take a ferry,

which departs from under the shadow
of the royal palace.

which departs from under the shadow
of the royal palace.

'I've been advised
that the place to go is Vaxholm.

'I've been advised
that the place to go is Vaxholm.

'Often referred to as the capital
of the archipelago,

'Often referred to as the capital
of the archipelago,

'Vaxholm consists of 70 islands

'Vaxholm consists of 70 islands

'and is an hour's ferry ride
from Stockholm.'

'and is an hour's ferry ride
from Stockholm.'

Being on the ferry gives me
a better idea than I had

Being on the ferry gives me
a better idea than I had

of how Stockholm spreads out.

of how Stockholm spreads out.

I'm passing suburbs now that...

I'm passing suburbs now that...

I'm guessing
not many tourists come to.

I'm guessing
not many tourists come to.

'The further that we sail
from the city centre,

'The further that we sail
from the city centre,

'the emptier the ferry becomes.'

'the emptier the ferry becomes.'

Ferry acts like a bus
within the city.

Ferry acts like a bus
within the city.

There's just a handful of us now
for Vaxholm,

There's just a handful of us now
for Vaxholm,

and I'm beginning to think
that it must be quite exclusive.

and I'm beginning to think
that it must be quite exclusive.

'The picture-postcard town
twinkles in the wind tonight.

'The picture-postcard town
twinkles in the wind tonight.

'The picture-postcard town
twinkles in the wind tonight.

'It's well below freezing,

'but the glowing lights
suggest a warm welcome.'

'but the glowing lights
suggest a warm welcome.'

Here is my bed and breakfast.

And in Sweden,
a candle in the window,

And in Sweden,
a candle in the window,

it offers welcome to the stranger.

it offers welcome to the stranger.

And in this house, all the windows
are burning brightly,

And in this house, all the windows
are burning brightly,

And in this house, all the windows
are burning brightly,

like a beacon
for the weary traveller.

like a beacon
for the weary traveller.

Wonderful to meet you.

Welcome to Vaxholm
Bed and Breakfast. I'm Linda.

Welcome to Vaxholm
Bed and Breakfast. I'm Linda.

What a lovely pleasure to see you,
Linda. I'm Michael.

What a lovely pleasure to see you,
Linda. I'm Michael.

What a very pretty house you have.
Oh, thank you.

What a very pretty house you have.
Oh, thank you.

So, this will be your room.
Welcome in to the studio.

So, this will be your room.
Welcome in to the studio.

Oh, so warm and so homely.
I'm glad to hear that.

Oh, so warm and so homely.
I'm glad to hear that.

Oh, so warm and so homely.
I'm glad to hear that.

I hope you'll make yourself
at home here.

I hope you'll make yourself
at home here.

What a beautiful sight.

After my cold walk
through the village,

it's like a mirage,
like a warm embrace.

it's like a mirage,
like a warm embrace.

And my goodness, I needed it
after that walk.

And my goodness, I needed it
after that walk.

I'm going to enjoy this.

Actually, I feel like storing up
all the warmth that I can.

Actually, I feel like storing up
all the warmth that I can.

Actually, I feel like storing up
all the warmth that I can.

Because tomorrow,
my plan is to get pretty cold -

Because tomorrow,
my plan is to get pretty cold -

Because tomorrow,
my plan is to get pretty cold -

to venture out
on the icy water, brr!

to venture out
on the icy water, brr!

to venture out
on the icy water, brr!

'Coming up,
I become very "kneady"...'

'Coming up,
I become very "kneady"...'

Have you baked before?
Hardly.

Have you baked before?
Hardly.

'..prepare to take an icy plunge...'

'..prepare to take an icy plunge...'

Men go to the moon
in less equipment than I am wearing.

Men go to the moon
in less equipment than I am wearing.

Men go to the moon
in less equipment than I am wearing.

'..and go back to nature,
Scandi style.'

'..and go back to nature,
Scandi style.'

In Sweden, the sauna
is taken in the nude.

In Sweden, the sauna
is taken in the nude.

'I'm enjoying a long weekend
in the Swedish capital, Stockholm,

'I'm enjoying a long weekend
in the Swedish capital, Stockholm,

'I'm enjoying a long weekend
in the Swedish capital, Stockholm,

'the biggest city
in the Nordic region.

'the biggest city
in the Nordic region.

'My first morning dawns
an hour away in Vaxholm...

'My first morning dawns
an hour away in Vaxholm...

'..a picturesque maritime town
on Stockholm's island archipelago.

'..a picturesque maritime town
on Stockholm's island archipelago.

'..a picturesque maritime town
on Stockholm's island archipelago.

'Last night,
I joined crowds of locals

'Last night,
I joined crowds of locals

'on their weekend exodus
to rural homes,

'on their weekend exodus
to rural homes,

'answering the Swedes' need
to draw closer to nature.

'answering the Swedes' need
to draw closer to nature.

'answering the Swedes' need
to draw closer to nature.

'I feel happiest
in the heart of a city,

'I feel happiest
in the heart of a city,

'but now I find myself awake
before everybody else...

'but now I find myself awake
before everybody else...

'..startled by the sheer and
utter tranquillity of this place.'

'..startled by the sheer and
utter tranquillity of this place.'

'..startled by the sheer and
utter tranquillity of this place.'

By day, Vaxholm turns out
to be a very pretty village,

By day, Vaxholm turns out
to be a very pretty village,

with old clapperboard houses
and picket fences.

with old clapperboard houses
and picket fences.

with old clapperboard houses
and picket fences.

And after the darkness,
there shall be light,

And after the darkness,
there shall be light,

with a glorious sunrise
over the Baltic Sea.

with a glorious sunrise
over the Baltic Sea.

'Down by the water's edge,
I'm pleased to discover

'Down by the water's edge,
I'm pleased to discover

'that I wasn't the first out of bed
after all.'

'that I wasn't the first out of bed
after all.'

Hej.
Hej.

My name is Michael, hello.
Hello. Hello.

Did you, er...?
Did you just go in the sea?

Yes, we did.
THEY LAUGH

Yes, we did.
THEY LAUGH

But there's ice on the water.
Yes.

But there's ice on the water.
Yes.

Revives you in the morning?

Revives you in the morning?

Yeah. Yes.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

Makes you calm, and also,
after you conquer the cold... Yes.

Makes you calm, and also,
after you conquer the cold... Yes.

Makes you calm, and also,
after you conquer the cold... Yes.

..just accept it.

What temperature is the water?
Around two degrees.

What temperature is the water?
Around two degrees.

How long do you spend in the water?
Now it's about a minute or two.

How long do you spend in the water?
Now it's about a minute or two.

Yeah. Ah.
When it's this cold.

Yeah. Ah.
When it's this cold.

Yeah.But when we started,
it was, like, seconds.

Yeah.But when we started,
it was, like, seconds.

THEY LAUGH
I can believe it.

Respect.

'Vaxholm was just a rocky outcrop
in the archipelago until 1548,

'Vaxholm was just a rocky outcrop
in the archipelago until 1548,

'Vaxholm was just a rocky outcrop
in the archipelago until 1548,

'Vaxholm was just a rocky outcrop
in the archipelago until 1548,

'when a fortress was built
on a neighbouring rock

'when a fortress was built
on a neighbouring rock

'by one of the greatest
Swedish kings, Gustav Vasa,

'by one of the greatest
Swedish kings, Gustav Vasa,

'by one of the greatest
Swedish kings, Gustav Vasa,

'who liberated the Swedes
from Danish rule.

'who liberated the Swedes
from Danish rule.

'By the 19th century,
it was a popular resort town

'By the 19th century,
it was a popular resort town

'and steadily grew
with the construction

'and steadily grew
with the construction

'of wooden summer houses
for the good people of Stockholm.

'of wooden summer houses
for the good people of Stockholm.

'My bed and breakfast owner, Linda,

'My bed and breakfast owner, Linda,

'moved here 24 years ago
to make a reality of her dream

'moved here 24 years ago
to make a reality of her dream

'moved here 24 years ago
to make a reality of her dream

'of running a small hotel
close to nature.'

'of running a small hotel
close to nature.'

Hello, Linda.
Hi. There you are.

I'm dressed for action.
Happy to hear that.

I'm dressed for action.
Happy to hear that.

'For the long weekender,
she also offers baking classes,

'For the long weekender,
she also offers baking classes,

'For the long weekender,
she also offers baking classes,

'specialising in
a very popular Swedish pastry.'

'specialising in
a very popular Swedish pastry.'

And today, it's cinnamon buns.

Yes. My favourite.
So...

Have you baked before?
Hardly.

Have you baked before?
Hardly.

OK, that's fun.
THEY LAUGH

OK, that's fun.
THEY LAUGH

'Cinnamon buns are almost sacrosanct
in Sweden.

'Cinnamon buns are almost sacrosanct
in Sweden.

'Cinnamon buns are almost sacrosanct
in Sweden.

'There's even a national day,
October 4th, in their honour.

'There's even a national day,
October 4th, in their honour.

'There's even a national day,
October 4th, in their honour.

'Whenever you have guests
for coffee,

'Whenever you have guests
for coffee,

'you generally offer cinnamon buns.'

'you generally offer cinnamon buns.'

Cinnamon buns have been
on the Swedish coffee table

Cinnamon buns have been
on the Swedish coffee table

since at least the '40s,
so right after the Second World War,

since at least the '40s,
so right after the Second World War,

since at least the '40s,
so right after the Second World War,

when all the spices
could come back in stock.

when all the spices
could come back in stock.

But that's interesting.
So, it's a 20th-century phenomenon.

But that's interesting.
So, it's a 20th-century phenomenon.

It doesn't go further back
than that, probably.No, exactly.

It doesn't go further back
than that, probably.No, exactly.

I think this is perfect.
That looks pretty good to me.

I think this is perfect.
That looks pretty good to me.

I'm surprised how good it is,
to tell you the truth.

I'm surprised how good it is,
to tell you the truth.

Linda, I saw some ladies this
morning who'd been into the sea.

Linda, I saw some ladies this
morning who'd been into the sea.

Linda, I saw some ladies this
morning who'd been into the sea.

Would you do that in winter?
No.

Would you do that in winter?
No.

THEY LAUGH

But we do have a lot of guests
that does. Yeah.

But we do have a lot of guests
that does. Yeah.

We see ladies and men swimming
down there every day of the year.

We see ladies and men swimming
down there every day of the year.

Yeah.
Yeah.

So, let's fold this,
and I fold it in three.

So, let's fold this,
and I fold it in three.

What kind of a village is Vaxholm?

What kind of a village is Vaxholm?

Do you get commuters here?
Yes.

People who live in Vaxholm,
many of them commute to...

People who live in Vaxholm,
many of them commute to...

to Stockholm, for instance,
for work.

Yeah.But we have around one million
visitors every year on this island.

Yeah.But we have around one million
visitors every year on this island.

Yeah.But we have around one million
visitors every year on this island.

One million?
One million, yeah.

That's astonishing.
Many people go... they go hiking,

That's astonishing.
Many people go... they go hiking,

they go boating, fishing.

they go boating, fishing.

Even in the winter,
if the ice is not on.

Even in the winter,
if the ice is not on.

Easy, right?
No.

THEY LAUGH

Hold one end, twist a little bit,
and then you go round your fingers.

Hold one end, twist a little bit,
and then you go round your fingers.

Oh, yeah.

'My buns need an hour to rise.

'My buns need an hour to rise.

'Luckily,
Linda prepared some earlier,

'Luckily,
Linda prepared some earlier,

'ready for breakfast.'

Here you go.
Ta-da!

Wow.
There you go.

I think those are the ones you made,
rather than the ones I made.

I think those are the ones you made,
rather than the ones I made.

They look perfect.

'Coffee and cake for breakfast.
What could be simpler?

'Coffee and cake for breakfast.
What could be simpler?

'Except that here in Sweden,
it's much more than that.'

'Except that here in Sweden,
it's much more than that.'

Mm. That's so lovely.

Mm. That's so lovely.

'Taking time out
over coffee and cake

'Taking time out
over coffee and cake

'is a social phenomenon
all of its own.

'is a social phenomenon
all of its own.

'It has a name - fika.'

'It has a name - fika.'

What else would you say to me about,
erm... about Vaxholm?

What else would you say to me about,
erm... about Vaxholm?

What else would you say to me about,
erm... about Vaxholm?

I think that, you know, we're
not much of the bragging types.

I think that, you know, we're
not much of the bragging types.

I want to show you things, but
it's very welcoming to come here,

I want to show you things, but
it's very welcoming to come here,

I want to show you things, but
it's very welcoming to come here,

but also relaxed.

And I think that's, erm,
pretty unique, I think.

And I think that's, erm,
pretty unique, I think.

The nature, I mean,

the privilege we have
to be out in the nature,

the privilege we have
to be out in the nature,

that's very exclusive.

that's very exclusive.

And most of our guests want to,

And most of our guests want to,

in some way,
experience the archipelago nature.

in some way,
experience the archipelago nature.

I understand.
We better give it a look.

I understand.
We better give it a look.

'The Stockholm archipelago
is a vast cluster

'The Stockholm archipelago
is a vast cluster

'of some 30,000 islands
spread out around the capital -

'of some 30,000 islands
spread out around the capital -

'of some 30,000 islands
spread out around the capital -

'the largest archipelago in Sweden.

'the largest archipelago in Sweden.

'Most of the islands
are uninhabited,

'Most of the islands
are uninhabited,

'have no roads or infrastructure.

'have no roads or infrastructure.

'But under Swedish law,
anyone can kayak and camp on them,

'But under Swedish law,
anyone can kayak and camp on them,

'But under Swedish law,
anyone can kayak and camp on them,

'except on private property.

'In Sweden,
fuelled by cinnamon buns,

'In Sweden,
fuelled by cinnamon buns,

'any man or woman is an island,
it appears.

'any man or woman is an island,
it appears.

'In the spirit
of communing with nature,

'In the spirit
of communing with nature,

'I've arranged to take to the water
with local expedition guide Teresa.'

'I've arranged to take to the water
with local expedition guide Teresa.'

'I've arranged to take to the water
with local expedition guide Teresa.'

Hello. I'm Michael.
Oh, hello.

Hello. I'm Michael.
Oh, hello.

Good morning.
Good morning to you.

Good morning.
Good morning to you.

Whoa!
Oh, la, la.

It's icy everywhere.
Yes, everywhere.

It's icy everywhere.
Yes, everywhere.

Can we possibly go out in kayaks
in this ice?

Can we possibly go out in kayaks
in this ice?

Yes. Luckily, we've been cutting
the ice yesterday with a chainsaw.

Yes. Luckily, we've been cutting
the ice yesterday with a chainsaw.

Yes. Luckily, we've been cutting
the ice yesterday with a chainsaw.

Then the ice could just drifted out
overnight.

Then the ice could just drifted out
overnight.

So, is that something
you have to do quite often?

Go out there with your chainsaw?
Yeah.

Go out there with your chainsaw?
Yeah.

On days in January,
it can happen, yes.

On days in January,
it can happen, yes.

Now, it looks as though you are
very substantially kitted out.

Now, it looks as though you are
very substantially kitted out.

Yes. That's our kayak fashion.

OK, well, I need
to have gear like that, please.

OK, well, I need
to have gear like that, please.

Do you have something in my size,
do you think?Of course.

Do you have something in my size,
do you think?Of course.

'Even with sea temperatures
close to freezing,

'Even with sea temperatures
close to freezing,

'kayaking is enjoyed all year round.

'kayaking is enjoyed all year round.

'Perfect weather for Swedish ducks.

'Perfect weather for Swedish ducks.

'Theresa has carefully embalmed me
from head to foot.'

'Theresa has carefully embalmed me
from head to foot.'

Men go to the moon
in less equipment than I am wearing.

Men go to the moon
in less equipment than I am wearing.

'And with much of the Baltic
iced over,

'And with much of the Baltic
iced over,

'we employ a boat with a reinforced
hull to find a safe spot to launch.'

'we employ a boat with a reinforced
hull to find a safe spot to launch.'

'we employ a boat with a reinforced
hull to find a safe spot to launch.'

So, right now, our boat
is crunching through the ice,

So, right now, our boat
is crunching through the ice,

and that's the sound you can hear.

and that's the sound you can hear.

We are just ploughing through ice,
pushing it aside.

We are just ploughing through ice,
pushing it aside.

ICE CRACKS

'According to Teresa,
conditions can be very much worse.'

'According to Teresa,
conditions can be very much worse.'

'According to Teresa,
conditions can be very much worse.'

Baltic Sea is like an inland sea.

Baltic Sea is like an inland sea.

It only has 0.3% of salt,
so it can actually freeze over.

It only has 0.3% of salt,
so it can actually freeze over.

It only has 0.3% of salt,
so it can actually freeze over.

So that means
you really have to think

about where we're going kayaking
today.Yes.

about where we're going kayaking
today.Yes.

It's kind of open water.

It's kind of open water.

We can still see the island,

We can still see the island,

but it's all covered in ice,
basically.

but it's all covered in ice,
basically.

Yeah.
Wow. Wow.

If we are lucky,
we can go on top of it.

That's quite funny. We will see
if it will carry us, yes.

That's quite funny. We will see
if it will carry us, yes.

That's quite funny. We will see
if it will carry us, yes.

'I do hope she's joking.'

'I do hope she's joking.'

Your idea of fun
is an interesting one.

Your idea of fun
is an interesting one.

Yeah. Yeah, yeah.

Yeah. Yeah, yeah.

Well, you take what you get
in winter, yes.

Well, you take what you get
in winter, yes.

'She's NOT joking.

'Finally, we arrive
at a suitable stretch of water.'

'Finally, we arrive
at a suitable stretch of water.'

I have been launched.

Yoo-hoo!
May God bless all who sail in her.

Yoo-hoo!
May God bless all who sail in her.

'Just in case I plough into trouble,

'Just in case I plough into trouble,

'experienced kayaker Miley joins me,
tandem kayaking.'

'experienced kayaker Miley joins me,
tandem kayaking.'

'experienced kayaker Miley joins me,
tandem kayaking.'

We're the only ones brave enough
today.Yes, exactly.

We're the only ones brave enough
today.Yes, exactly.

But lucky those of us
who have been brave today

But lucky those of us
who have been brave today

because this is marvellous,
isn't it?

I'm in a very, very,
very beautiful place.

Quite a lot of greenery,
quite a lot of trees.

Quite a lot of greenery,
quite a lot of trees.

'Plenty of birds on the water too.'

'Plenty of birds on the water too.'

In winter, you can see
a lot of swans and ducks.

In winter, you can see
a lot of swans and ducks.

We also have a lot of deers,
actually, on the island

We also have a lot of deers,
actually, on the island

because they go over the ice
in winter.

because they go over the ice
in winter.

And then in summertime, they get
stuck on the island, basically.

And then in summertime, they get
stuck on the island, basically.

And then in summertime, they get
stuck on the island, basically.

And then they just lay on your
terrace for the rest of the year.

And then they just lay on your
terrace for the rest of the year.

So, they become
your domestic animals.

So, they become
your domestic animals.

'The further out we go,
the bolder I feel.'

'The further out we go,
the bolder I feel.'

So, now you can start to see

So, now you can start to see

that the surface of the water
is changing, right?

that the surface of the water
is changing, right?

that the surface of the water
is changing, right?

We have one kind of
mirror-like surface,

We have one kind of
mirror-like surface,

so that's the ice, basically.

Mm-hm.

Oh, now we get a gust here.

Oh, now we get a gust here.

Yeah. Suddenly, some very cold water
in my face.Yes.

Yeah. Suddenly, some very cold water
in my face.Yes.

Which reminds me that the...
the Baltic is a very cold sea.

Which reminds me that the...
the Baltic is a very cold sea.

And we're just approaching
the sheet of ice.

And we're just approaching
the sheet of ice.

Ah-ha.
And my goodness, you...

We are on the ice!
Yes!

We are on the ice!
Yes!

I don't believe it.
We are on the ice.

I don't believe it.
We are on the ice.

Great, right?
I'm going to tap it with my...

Great, right?
I'm going to tap it with my...

You can try. It's so thick. Yes.

You can try. It's so thick. Yes.

Wow. That's exciting.
It is.

Wow. That's exciting.
It is.

I think
I shall always remember this.

This is a beautiful moment.

Mm. And now I would
then drift myself off,

Mm. And now I would
then drift myself off,

Mm. And now I would
then drift myself off,

and we can find some shelter
on this side.

and we can find some shelter
on this side.

OK, let's do that.
Yes.

You're sitting completely up there
on the ice at the moment.

You're sitting completely up there
on the ice at the moment.

I'm stuck here forever.

I'm stuck here forever.

No, no, you'll be fine
in the summer.Yes.

No, no, you'll be fine
in the summer.Yes.

'I'm happily surprised
at how much I've enjoyed this.

'I'm happily surprised
at how much I've enjoyed this.

'I go so far as to recommend

'that you try it
on your long weekend here.'

'that you try it
on your long weekend here.'

Hey, hey, hey!
Voila. What a landing.

Hey, hey, hey!
Voila. What a landing.

'But before I return
to my natural urban habitat,

'But before I return
to my natural urban habitat,

'But before I return
to my natural urban habitat,

'Theresa has one more rural treat
in store.'

'Theresa has one more rural treat
in store.'

The hardy Swede, having endured the
rigours of the Baltic in the kayak,

The hardy Swede, having endured the
rigours of the Baltic in the kayak,

The hardy Swede, having endured the
rigours of the Baltic in the kayak,

then takes a plunge
in the icy waters

then takes a plunge
in the icy waters

and then to the bastu,
which is Swedish for sauna.

and then to the bastu,
which is Swedish for sauna.

and then to the bastu,
which is Swedish for sauna.

I'm going to go in at 70 degrees
for about ten minutes,

I'm going to go in at 70 degrees
for about ten minutes,

I'm going to go in at 70 degrees
for about ten minutes,

which is rather longer
than a cinnamon bun.

which is rather longer
than a cinnamon bun.

And in Sweden,
the sauna is taken in the nude.

And in Sweden,
the sauna is taken in the nude.

And in Sweden,
the sauna is taken in the nude.

'Coming up, I return to urbanism...'

'Coming up, I return to urbanism...'

Look at these beautiful gables,

the soft lighting and the
restaurants that glow their welcome.

the soft lighting and the
restaurants that glow their welcome.

the soft lighting and the
restaurants that glow their welcome.

'..and at one of the world's
oldest bars,

'..and at one of the world's
oldest bars,

'I learn the language of love.'

'I learn the language of love.'

IN SWEDISH:

IN SWEDISH:

'I'm back in the Swedish capital,
Stockholm,

'I'm back in the Swedish capital,
Stockholm,

'ruddy cheeked
from my icy archipelago adventure.

'ruddy cheeked
from my icy archipelago adventure.

'And being mid-afternoon,
it's already becoming dark.

'And being mid-afternoon,
it's already becoming dark.

'On the old town island
of Gamla Stan,

'On the old town island
of Gamla Stan,

'I'm inspired
to continue my exploration

'I'm inspired
to continue my exploration

'of what connects the Swedes
to this wonderful place.'

'of what connects the Swedes
to this wonderful place.'

Returning from Vaxholm to Stockholm,

Returning from Vaxholm to Stockholm,

a city which is
increasingly familiar to me,

a city which is
increasingly familiar to me,

has felt like a homecoming
after a short holiday.

has felt like a homecoming
after a short holiday.

'Despite being one of Europe's
richest countries,

'Despite being one of Europe's
richest countries,

'there's very little bling
on display.

'there's very little bling
on display.

'Another very Swedish characteristic

'Another very Swedish characteristic

'is the marked lack
of towering glass skyscrapers.

'is the marked lack
of towering glass skyscrapers.

'Strolling the medieval streets
is a delight.'

'Strolling the medieval streets
is a delight.'

The old town of Stockholm
is very well preserved.

The old town of Stockholm
is very well preserved.

Cobbled streets,
twists and turns and hills.

Cobbled streets,
twists and turns and hills.

Cobbled streets,
twists and turns and hills.

Very, very charming.

Very, very charming.

And a conservation marvel.

And a conservation marvel.

No modern buildings
interrupting the facades.

No modern buildings
interrupting the facades.

Look at these beautiful gables,
look at these pastel colours,

Look at these beautiful gables,
look at these pastel colours,

the soft lighting and the
restaurants that glow their welcome.

the soft lighting and the
restaurants that glow their welcome.

the soft lighting and the
restaurants that glow their welcome.

'I'm learning that in Sweden,
when the dark winter nights draw in,

'I'm learning that in Sweden,
when the dark winter nights draw in,

'I'm learning that in Sweden,
when the dark winter nights draw in,

'you arrange to pass the time
by keeping yourself busy.

'you arrange to pass the time
by keeping yourself busy.

'A four-minute stroll away
is a Stockholm institution

'A four-minute stroll away
is a Stockholm institution

'which has been keeping
locals occupied for centuries.'

'which has been keeping
locals occupied for centuries.'

'which has been keeping
locals occupied for centuries.'

Do you know, I think
I might go into this old bar here.

Do you know, I think
I might go into this old bar here.

It's what they call
a "schnapps" decision.

It's what they call
a "schnapps" decision.

'In fact, I've been looking forward
to spending an evening here

'In fact, I've been looking forward
to spending an evening here

'In fact, I've been looking forward
to spending an evening here

'ever since arriving in Stockholm.

'ever since arriving in Stockholm.

'Head barman Simon will be my host.'

'Head barman Simon will be my host.'

Good evening.
Good evening.

Hello, Michael. I'm Simon.
Simon.

Hello, Michael. I'm Simon.
Simon.

Good to see you, Simon.
Are these schnapps glasses?

Good to see you, Simon.
Are these schnapps glasses?

Yes. Well, you're in Sweden now,
so... when in Rome.

Yes. Well, you're in Sweden now,
so... when in Rome.

This is, erm... This is a very well
known and ancient place, isn't it?

This is, erm... This is a very well
known and ancient place, isn't it?

Yeah. I mean, it's arguably the...

probably the oldest restaurant
in the world.

probably the oldest restaurant
in the world.

I mean, Google says different.

There's a place in Madrid
that opened in 1725.

There's a place in Madrid
that opened in 1725.

I've been there.
Oh, yeah, OK.

I've been there.
Oh, yeah, OK.

But this opened in 1722.

My goodness. I mean,
that's more than 300 years.Yes.

My goodness. I mean,
that's more than 300 years.Yes.

There is a painter called Zorn
who rescued the place

There is a painter called Zorn
who rescued the place

There is a painter called Zorn
who rescued the place

because it was near bankruptcy.
Yes.

because it was near bankruptcy.
Yes.

And then in his will,
became a part of Swedish heritage.

And then in his will,
became a part of Swedish heritage.

He said that this restaurant
will never close.

He said that this restaurant
will never close.

Ever, no matter what.
MICHAEL LAUGHS

And that must be unique,
I would think.Yeah.

'Sweden's preferred
distilled liquor, schnapps,

'Sweden's preferred
distilled liquor, schnapps,

'is made from potatoes or grains

'is made from potatoes or grains

'and flavoured with anything,
from butterscotch to watermelon.

'and flavoured with anything,
from butterscotch to watermelon.

'At Den Gyldene Freden,
there's an added extra.'

'At Den Gyldene Freden,
there's an added extra.'

Usually, we serve it with a beer.

You drink it
at the beginning of the dinner.

You drink it
at the beginning of the dinner.

We have our own unique schnapps,
which is this.

We have our own unique schnapps,
which is this.

It's made in the archipelago,
just past Vaxholm.

It's made in the archipelago,
just past Vaxholm.

It's nice and chilled.

Now, do we have to think carefully
about the beer as well?

Now, do we have to think carefully
about the beer as well?

Er, well, Swedes love lager.
OK.

Er, well, Swedes love lager.
OK.

This is one of the oldest lagers
in Sweden,

This is one of the oldest lagers
in Sweden,

from a place called Falkenberg.

from a place called Falkenberg.

So, slurp, and then a sip of beer,

and then
you're a fully qualified Swede.

and then
you're a fully qualified Swede.

Well, let me do that straight away.
Yeah.

Ah! Fire, fire. Glorious.

Ah! Fire, fire. Glorious.

Simon?
Yes.

You have a very English accent.

I am English. So, I've lived here
for nearly 20 years now.

I am English. So, I've lived here
for nearly 20 years now.

What's it been like settling in?
I mean, it's a beautiful country.

What's it been like settling in?
I mean, it's a beautiful country.

They're very open to tourists.

They're very open to tourists.

The problem for me is that I have
quite a thick northern accent,

The problem for me is that I have
quite a thick northern accent,

and when you speak Swedish,
you have to do the melody.

and when you speak Swedish,
you have to do the melody.

Give me an example of a sentence

where you go up and down
in your modulations,

where you go up and down
in your modulations,

where you sing... sing-song.

Well, jag alskar dig,
you know, it means I love you...

Well, jag alskar dig,
you know, it means I love you...

MICHAEL LAUGHS
You're so kind!

You've only been here two minutes.
I've only just arrived.

You've only been here two minutes.
I've only just arrived.

Jag alskar dig.
Jag alskar dig.

Jag alskar dig.
Jag alskar dig.

How did you find the schnapps?
I can't remember.

How did you find the schnapps?
I can't remember.

I wonder if I could have one
to remind me, please?

I wonder if I could have one
to remind me, please?

Do you want to try another one?
Yeah, I do.

Ah! Wonderful!
So, now you're officially a Swede.

Ah! Wonderful!
So, now you're officially a Swede.

Jag alskar dig.

Jag alskar dig.

So, you're picking up the lingo now?

Won't be able to talk at all soon.
No.

Won't be able to talk at all soon.
No.

THEY LAUGH

'Next time, in Stockholm...'

I've not had this much fun
since I was five.

I've not had this much fun
since I was five.

'..I discover more
about this spectacular city...'

'..I discover more
about this spectacular city...'

Ooh, la, la. This is astonishing.

Ooh, la, la. This is astonishing.

This is not the sort of place
where a man asks for a glass.

This is not the sort of place
where a man asks for a glass.

This is not the sort of place
where a man asks for a glass.

CHEERING

CHEERING