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[Keala] Everybody hopes that their life means something.

I hope that I've at least inspired women

to pursue their dreams no matter what anybody says.

All my life I'm hearing 'Oh, girls can't surf.

Girls can't get barreled.

They can't surf pipeline.'

Every time they would tell me I couldn't do something

and it just put like a fire on me to like prove them wrong.

'It is time to introduce our host

for this evening's double XL.

It's a big year, people!

And we're here to celebrate you,

the men and the women

of the Big Wave World Series.'

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

"This is a real special year, people!

This is the first time that a woman

is up to challenge the man

in a barrel competition!"

"The winner is...

Keala Kennelly."

[Keala] "I really, really wanna thank everybody

in my life that told me "You can't do that

because you're a woman!"

I've never been so proud in my life

to be a woman than I am tonight."

[crowd cheering]

I was born in Ohio in 1954.

[Bruce] When I got out of high school, my dream was to go

on some move to the north shore of Oahu.

And began to try and realize a dream

of becoming a pipeline master.

And that I wanted to win the Pipeline Master's.

But I never did.

I never realized my dream.

She's better than me.

She's not my character.

She's a competitor.

She's more of a competitor than I ever was.

[Bruce] Cinta, time to wake up.

Come on, roll over.

Ohh, how fast!

[Bruce] My daughter was born in Bali.

Johnny Atty Love Hansel Aka Chinta.

"Cinta" means "love" in Indonesian language.

Cinta's started surfing in 7 years old

but she had an accident with the board

and the fin hit her head

and she didn't want to surf again.

She'd stopped.

It kinda broke my heart.

[♪♪♪]

Two years later she goes surfing with her friend

and she comes back after riding a longboard and says:

"Dad, can you please make me another board?

I wanna surf, I wanna be a surfer."

[♪♪♪]

[Bruce] What's your dream?

What kind of waves do you wanna ride

in the future?

Eh... Pipe.

Pipeline!

Are you sure?

-It's a killer! -Um-hum.

You're gonna be brave.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

Oh!

I've never seen anybody learn

how to surf so quickly.

I took her out one day when it was solid 5-foot

beach break which is really pounding.

I said: "Cinta, here comes the set

and I'll take your leash off and throw your board away.

I want to see you swim to the beach.

And she did.

And I was just terrified!

Cause she didn't know how to swim!

She proved to me that she had become a swimmer

without me even watching her how to swim!

[♪♪♪]

And then she came to me and said: "Dad,

I wanna go to Kuta and do the Magic Wave com[petition]."

I said: "Whoa, really?

You really wanna do that?!"

And so she twisted my arm, went down there and did it,

and that's the beginning of the competition.

[host] And the winner is Chinta!

[cheering]

[Bruce] And then when she actually won her first competition.

Oh, there's on,

now she just wants more and more and more and more and more.

I wanna be a world champion.

A good surfer, be the best

and a professional surfer.

Ladies and gentlemen, number 4, Coco Ho.

[audience cheering]

[crowd hooting]

'Oh god.

I thought I was a gold medal but whatever.

[laughing]

I have a few career victories and being just 23

I feel like I still have a lot of time and the dream

is not over yet.

Number 3, Coco Ho.

[crowd cheering]

Yeh, still wanna be there, and number one.

[commentator 1] It's gonna be Coco Ho taking the first ride in the state.

Coco did that first turn

really drawing it out again.

[commentator 2] Yeah, first wave was just picture-perfect from Coco Ho.

[Coco] You know we saw one of the barrels of the day.

Professional surfing has grown so much since I've been

on tour 7 years now.

And in the beginning it was so fun.

[indescribable speech]

And now in this day and age it's hard,

everyone's watching you.

[indescribable speech]

You win but watching you lose it's hard to hide

your tears when little girls are looking up to you.

Also your personal life is so out there nowadays.

And it's hard to just have that security and that safety.

And just not share your whole life with everyone

but make your fans happy.

It's a crazy balance nowadays.

[♪♪♪]

[Coco] Fame can definitely bring a lot of terrible traits.

A lot of professional surfers come from Hawaii

and hit that fame.

But no matter how famous or successful

you were across the ocean you come home

and it's simple, it's pure and it's reality.

I think it's something about coming back to your friends,

and your family and it's all still how it was.

So they don't let you get father than you should you know,

it's just be back to your home,

back to your jean shorts and T-shirt

and staying at the beach all day.

[♪♪♪]

I'm home and I'm happy.

And I'm not traveling.

I push my suitcase faraway from my vision

and I just surf.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

My family is like number one

and everyone has such good experience here,

from my brother to my dad, my uncle Derek.

I just learned of their hits, I always watch their hits.

Now everybody's here watching me and it's super fun.

[Coco] Being the only girl there

definitely created my character,

all the men in my life have this extra

and it's so special to me cause I could do it alone

but I'm just lucky

cause I have like that little bit of extra love

and extra support and you're free to roam

and to explore your strength.

Hi, this is Coco Ho.

If you think the boys are ripping, check out the girls.

[kids giggling]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[Coco] The first time I realized that connection with the ocean,

I had that first love with it was

when I went surfing before school, it was really early.

It was just my dad and I and the most fun waves.

Everything was connecting and making sense to me.

The first thing my dad taught me was all about the ocean

and how important it is

before you learn how to paddle,

before you learn how to stand up and surf you need to know

every part of the ocean and how powerful it is.

I use my wave knowledge to the best of my ability

everywhere in the world.

My dad still comes and watches me surf and practice.

It makes me feel like a kid again almost.

It brings me back to the beginning

and yeah I feel so much support

and love from him when he's standing

on the beach watching.

[♪♪♪]

The tattoo on my hand is the crucifix.

To me it's a constant reminder as I'm paddling that

someone always is sacrificing more than you.

So it's like don't give up, don't stop, keep going.

[host 2] Here is Coco Ho...

[crowd cheering]

[host 3] Congratulations!

Coco Ho taking the wave

at Parml Mature Super Go Pro.

[Coco] If you're just surfing for the fun of it

or surfing to be a world champion, it's about the balance

and it's about trusting the ocean and trusting yourself.

Being a woman in the ocean will always be one

of the most beautiful things.

And just see that and embrace that

and let it reflect and show its beauty through.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[Bruce] You have to, really, speak from your heart, Cinta.

How do you feel about the ocean?

How does the ocean make you feel?

[♪♪♪]

When I go into the ocean I forget about all the stress,

I relieve everything, and all comes out,

and I can actually

just focus on surfing.

and when I come out of the water I feel clean.

How do you feel?

-Same. -Same...

Yeah.

Looking at perfect waves is like

looking at beautiful flower, so...

It's a gift of nature, yeah.

[♪♪♪]

[Bruce] I think, Cinta right now...

she doesn't understand all these emotional things

that we feel.

[♪♪♪]

She's still young, so, I mean, for her surfing

in the ocean is more performance-related.

[♪♪♪]

[Coco] I definitely feel more comfortable

and graceful underwater than I do above water.

I spend more time with the sharks than I do, like,

with my human family

which I've very happy about.

[♪♪♪]

[Coco] I grew up with the traditional Hawaiian values

which are very very strong respect for the ocean

and a strong respect for the mano.

Mano is a Hawaiian for shark.

And here we respect the mano as an 'aumakua.

'Aumakua is like a spirit or guardian, like a part

of your ohana or your family.

[♪♪♪]

[Coco] I think I was seven or eight the first time I saw a shark

and I was instantly just completely enamored,

just infatuated, and I thought that

they were incredible and perfect and nothing else moves

like them in the ocean.

[♪♪♪]

I've been diving with sharks for over 15 years.

I have to say that they have not stopped impressing me.

And I learn more and more.

I appreciate them more and more and more.

The first one, and it's gonna to be your first rule actually,

your safety rule, is eye contact.

I don't want you to act like zebras.

Zebras face one direction.

You need to look around.

And not just the six beautiful sharks in front of you

but maybe the 12 or 15 coming up behind you,

right?

So please look around.

Seeing sharks in their natural form versus

seeing them depicted as monsters on a TV screen,

it's completely different and I totally understand why

people would be terrified of them because if all you ever

saw was the movie "Jaws" or the way that they are

mis-portrayed in most media

then I completely understand why people would be afraid,

however, it's not the truth.

[indescribable speech]

That's why I enjoy sharing the natural beauty

of the animals with people every single day.

[♪♪♪]

99% of people that get on the boat with me

in the morning are scared and nervous.

And if you ask them what do you know about sharks

they would probably say something like they have teeth.

And that's it.

[♪♪♪]

I don't think that it's necessary to start out

in a cage,

I just think that it's necessary

to start out with respect.

[♪♪♪]

Haphen, Domino..

Imagine floating out

in deep blue, blue, blue.

And you seeing this beautiful animal 450 million years

of evolutionary perfection

just gliding around you.

People call me the shark whisper but I feel like

I whisper to the people

and the sharks whisper to me,

not that I whisper to them.

I listen to the sharks, I watch the sharks,

I respect the sharks and I let them do what they want.

I don't control them, they are animals wild

and they deserve to be.

But I do try to control the humans

because we're just visitors.

[♪♪♪]

Replacing fear with fascination,

you know, fear with information,

so that you can empower people.

When a person knows what to do when they are suddenly

approached by a shark instead of panicking

and swimming away and splashing on the surface

like an injured animal

or evoking a certain response on the animal

..instead they're going to look around like a predator,

they gonna face the sharks, and they gonna slowly move out

of their territory.

Interacting with these massive sharks

and just getting to lock eyes with them

and you can really see that level of intelligence.

And they're like you: up and down.

Like you really get to realize

that there's someone in there and

it's really need to experience that.

[♪♪♪]

[Coco] The very first time I was actually out

of the cage with a great white shark

and I was specifically studying a shark body language.

[♪♪♪]

Every single muscle movement means something and

so every single muscle movement from you

means something.

[♪♪♪]

We can peacefully coexist and actually they're not

mindless man-eating machines.

How many millions and millions of people go

in the ocean every single day.

If they wanted to eat us they could.

[♪♪♪]

They are individuals and so it's great

to spend time with the sharks and get to know

them as individuals.

There is a number of individual sharks

that I've known year after year.

It's kind of heartbreaking when you don't see an animal

for a while and you wonder what's going on!

Because these animals have so much risk to swim

in the oceans.

They could be killed the fisherman and wrapped up

in a net

or die from ingestion of plastics.

Sometimes I see the individual tiger sharks that I know

they come back and they've got a big hook.

Their jaws broken open or they've got stuff

wrapped around them.

And I love that I'm in a position

where I can help them.

I know the sharks better than I know

many people I wanna see them every year.

I wanna know that they're continuing to exist,

just like how you would protect your own family.

In six years maybe another

600 million sharks will have been killed.

And what was my impact really in the world to publish a paper

or to let all these beautiful animals who had given to me

so much and spend so much time with

was I not going to share my voice.

[Coco] I've created a platform that will help support other

researchers who want to get really quality science,

conservation based science.

I mean science that can be applied to benefit the community

both above water and below the water.

Every single dive I feel

a stronger sense to continue to speak up

and help to spread that.

And especially right now.

We killing rhinos and elephants.

I mean nobody needs a rhino's horn except for a rhino.

Nobody needs an elephant's tusks except for an elephant.

And the same thing nobody really needs a shark's fin

except for a shark.

And we do need sharks in the ocean where they belong.

We all rely on the ocean.

[♪♪♪]

We have one ocean, one planet and one chance.

And everyone has a choice

and how they play into that.

What kind of impact you're going to make?

Are you going to be part of the solution that helps it

and conserves it and protects it or are you going to be

a single-use plastic straw

that gets thrown and blows out and kills a turtle?

[♪♪♪]

You have a choice every single day.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[Bruce] I have 3 daughters and I don't have a son

and Chinta from the beginning has been like a tomboy.

She loves climbing trees, falling out of them,

riding bikes, falling off of them,

skateboarding, falling down and nothing stops her

from doing any of these things.

Now that she is getting a bit older, she's very feminine

on land doing all the little girly stuff

but, wow, throw her in a competition and watch out.

[♪♪♪]

[Chinta] My dad teach me this thing that

I'm going against people that are better than me.

Just don't think I'm going against them,

just think about I'm going against myself.

Beating myself's like being better than I used to be.

Sometime I cry but my dad will always

make me feel better, that just learn from the mistake

and do better.

[overlapping speech]

[man 1] Cinta!

Are you nervous?

[host 4] And the champion is...

Cinta!

[crowd cheering]

Thank you all: the sponsors, my dad,

everybody thank you very much.

[crowd cheering]

[♪♪♪]

[Anna] My highest dive was of 24,5 meters.

I don't have a limit that I say I wouldn't go

higher than that.

It's also not my goal to go higher and higher.

My goal is to make

the dives perfect.

[♪♪♪]

Maybe I'm not the strongest, maybe

I'm not the one that jumps highest or that turns fastest.

But I can try to be the most beautiful in the air.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[Anna] The body control I have now

is comes from early childhood

and what helped me a lot for making nice lines I think

it's gymnastics and ballet.

I had Russian coaches.

They were Olympians,

actually the same Olympics that my mom.

And they taught us being elegant

and this was something I was focusing on.

My mom was always a huge inspiration

for me since I've been young,

because I always saw these pictures.

She was a gymnast, she was so passionate for sports.

[♪♪♪]

I'm very proud of my family.

My grandmother, she's a very central person

for our family.

[laughing]

[♪♪♪]

I have brothers, I have sisters.

We grew up with this pleasure for moving.

Since childhood we were always around waters,

wherever we went, we just, you know, every free time

we went to the pools or the lakes.

Maybe we swam before we knew how to walk.

I feel very comfortable, I'm really not scared.

There was no life without water for us,

no way, no way.

[host 5] Anna Bader, from Germany.

Anna Bader.

[crowd cheering]

My first competition was in 2005 in Switzerland

and I was just the only woman.

The guys had their competition.

It was new for them too.

[speaking in foreign language]

[Anna] I did let's say demonstration jump

or an exhibition dive for the media.

And was always like a big deal: 'Oh', Well what did they call me

like: 'Oh, she's the bravest girl in Germany!'.

And those kind of things.

It was funny.

But I was like: Man, this is boring,

I want to compete.

[yelling]

[blowing whistle]

[Anna] And then bit by bit it started to happen.

I'm very glad that I was able to experience

like the beginning of this sport and even to promote it

and make it bigger.

[speaking in foreign language]

I visualize the dive.

I try exactly to understand how it's supposed to feel,

what should I see in the air

and what do I have to do.

Just to have it clear in my mind what I'm about to do.

Then I take it apart.

I just practice one part and one dive

and then the next part and maybe even the third part.

And in my mind I'm trying to put these like

parts of the dive together, like a puzzle.

You come to a competition and you haven't really done this

dive as one dive.

So then you have to put it together

and be strong enough to really do what you've practiced.

Body and mind are working by themselves.

[crowd cheering]

[blowing whistles]

[speaking in foreign language]

It's a moment of focus, just so much focus.

Because, you know, you can't do mistakes.

It's a high impact sport.

There is a risk.

You cannot fail, so you really have to focus 100%

and this is a very intense moment.

If you enter the water and you don't have the good angle,

it's really very dangerous.

You can break bones, you can tear things,

you can sprain ankles,

and possibly worse things.

We know about it, but then you have to

modify your thoughts in a positive way.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

And if I feel like I don't get

this positive feeling,

I can't transform it into something that makes me

want to jump off,

then I don't do it.

Step back, go to prepare again

and then you go up once you feel comfortable,

once you can say okay...

I've practiced enough,

I want to do it more than not, you know.

If you feel this and ready to do this,

then you can go.

Recently I had a big change in my life

because I'm pregnant.

And I'm extremely happy about that.

This is like totally new thing for me because during

the last decades of my life I was like in charge.

And now it's like nature takes over.

Once you're pregnant your body is on autopilot.

There is nothing you can do, it has its own rhythm.

It changes your perspective.

Ok, I'm going to be a mother.

That's perfect.

But it won't change who I am.

Like I'd still be a lot outside.

I'd still be moving a lot.

I'm very very independent.

I have a lot of ideas.

I like to be attached.

I love my family very much.

But I need my freedom.

Life opens a lot of opportunities for you.

You just have to be there and see them and grab them.

And then you really need to be courageous and brave to say

'Ok, this is what I want'.

I gonna try this.

No matter, if in the end it's not a good idea,

or it fails or there are risks.

Just go for it because you feel like.

[♪♪♪]

[laughing]

[Bruce] Chinta is 12 years old now and

so she's sprouting up, getting a lot taller,

her body's changing.

She's becoming a young woman.

[♪♪♪]

Boys are flirting with her,

she's getting messages on Instagram,

she's got fans and followers.

I'm preparing myself for it.

I can't own a shotgun here but I got a big machete.

[laughing]

I'm enjoying watching her grow up into a teenager

and a young woman.

It goes hand in hand with surfing.

[♪♪♪]

[Chinta] Next year

I wanna go to compete

in the competition against better girl

and my dream is also to surf in Hawaii,

like around Hawaii, like Pipe

and I have a plan,

like when I'm older,

I wanna compete like around the world.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

The other day I was looking into my life

I had this need to move.

I was thinking about this migration of birds...

they need to move, like, long distances...

and they have this need.

And this happens always in my life.

For different reasons I was living in Germany

and then went back to Chili and then moved to Italy,

moved to Spain, and moved to India,

and moved to Thailand and came here.

So for me was never meant to be

a last stop.

To build my own home?

I don't know...

I don't have the need.

Maybe it'll happen in the very future.

I'm not picturing anything in the future.

I'm just at the moment try to focus on the present.

[Rose] I love to be alone.

I enjoy very much my time alone.

Sometimes because I'm unhappy with myself

and I have something to work with.

I like to sit and meditate, I like to do my yoga practice.

I think I need my moments of being with myself a lot.

I like to start my day at the sea.

I go for a walk around the beach.

It's so beautiful because it changes also everyday,

same as us.

we're different everyday.

I was just always living by the sea

but I've never thought about going inside or look around.

When I moved to Koh Tao, my friend showed me

a mask.

I've never done snorkeling even, nothing.

[♪♪♪]

[Rose] When I was swimming with that mask I just could

see all these beautiful fish and all this coral

and all this marine life,

and it was like a door that opened.

It was just a different dimension or a different path.

[♪♪♪]

I felt that I was home.

I have found home.

And it was the ocean.

And for me the interesting thing was a connection

between freedom and you,

that connection about

this present moment and mind,

where you can really focus on yourself.

[♪♪♪]

When you holding the breath there is something special.

There is something that your whole body and soul

get to a different stage of awareness.

Because it's your life that you are holding for a second.

And that brings you in.

That brings your light here.

[♪♪♪]

That took me into free diving.

Not really a sport or like.

I started enjoying later about in a year, probably,

going deep.

At first drive was healing.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

We all have fears in different place

of our life.

Some fears we are aware of and some fairs

we are not aware of.

Free diving is a great way to work your fears.

We are in the moment of challenge, we decide to keep

on going or to go back.

And normally our minds find excuses:

Oh, no, this is too cold or this is too deep.

[♪♪♪]

But once you get over that fear

all the Universe open the doors for you.

I was always scared to break bones, because,

you know, with my dancing I've break

so many bones...

and I feel so safe in the water.

[♪♪♪]

You have no gravity...

You can do all the things you may not be

able to do in the air...

Nothing can happen...

it's like a mother and it's embracing you!

[♪♪♪]

I will never stop dancing.

It is something that takes with you, you don't choose anymore.

It's part of you.

So I dance whatever I am!

If I'm in the air I will dance in the air, if I'm

in the water I will dance in the water!

You are somewhere and you gonna start move.

And this is a way you feel...

life!

[♪♪♪]

I love to be a woman!

I love to be a woman and I enjoy to be a woman!

I think this feminine energy is needed right now.

This world has a chance to heal.

Not more exitizm, not more competition.

It's just loving and caring,

and embracing that the world need, that we all need.

[♪♪♪]

I dream place with people doesn't hurt other people,

and people doesn't hurt animals, and we are

taking care of each other, we can trust each other,

we can look at people's eyes and say 'I love you'

without thinking what's he gonna think

or she gonna feel...

that we can speak the truth!

[Bruce] Cinta keeps saying that she wants to surf pipeline.

That terrifies me.

Sometimes I drop her off in the waves-- they are, like,

solid five feet.

[♪♪♪]

For me, coming from Hawaii, when I say five feet,

it's like double overhead.

It's like triple overhead for her.

[♪♪♪]

And it's big, it's scary, it's gnarly.

And I get a bit nervous leaving her there, but I do.

[♪♪♪]

I have to let her go.

I can't just be the blanket on her

or protector all the time.

[woman 1] It was always really respected if you could charge

the big waves.

I really wanted to be respected by the guys

and I wanted to accept me like one of them.

It was hard to get the respect in the beginning.

They look at you like "Oh, you're a girl,

you're not gonna go..."

So it took a while to gain that respect from the boys.

[♪♪♪]

I grew up in Hawaii and I grew up in the ocean

and around the ocean.

I had two brothers and I was the middle child

so I just assumed that I was another boy and, like,

they had to explain to me: No-no, you're a girl, like,

it's different!"

I've been super bummed out coz being a girl meant you couldn't

a lot of stuff.

I just wanted to do all the stuff the boys are doing!

I grew up with like Andy and Bruce Irons

and guys like Kala Alexander and Laird Hamilton

and Titus Kinimaka and all these are, like, really,

like, tough macho-guys around.

So these were kinda my role-models,

I looked up to these guys.

[♪♪♪]

When I started getting attention for being good at surfing

it made me, like, really proud of myself, you know.

And I know it was something that made my father

really proud of me.

And it felt really good to win competitions

and give me just like a sense of self-worth.

[♪♪♪]

[moderator] "Welcome day number 3....

Pipe pro 2015".

[Keala] When I got on the tour and tried to get sponsors

and stuff they really wanted you to be a lot more feminine

so I kind of, like, tried to be that for them,

for impress the sponsors.

So I think I tried that for a lot of years to kind of

be something I was not and I was really unhappy.

I wasn't being honest.

That felt horrible.

I came really close to winning World title at one point.

I kinda feel like

I was never really gonna win the World title

and she would always find a way to...

"No, she's not gonna be good for women surfing!.."

So, I never really thought I was gonna win that World title

because of who I am.

I was trying to play the game

but you can't play the game forever,

it'll eat your soul...

The money started to not be as important

as just being honest.

[♪♪♪]

Finally I got to point where I just

stopped trying for the people and just decided

to be myself, and I cut my hair and I felt much better.

[♪♪♪]

[Keala] When you're being true to yourself,

people have to respect that.

They may not necessarily agree with it but when you're, like,

being true to yourself, people respect you.

I have too many interests.

I like to many things you know.

I like nature and surfing and beach

but I like cities, bars,

cool restaurants and people, you know..

I love music.

I love sharing music.

It makes you feel something and I love that

and I love to give that to other people...

You shouldn't give to get back.

You shouldn't give with expectation what you gonna get.

You should just give and be happy that you have made

somebody else happy.

I live very in the moment and I get by.

So..I just wanna keep doing stuff that I love.

[♪♪♪]

That was a very big moment for me...

to go back to Tahiti

to the place where I had such

an awful injury

and basically destroyed my face.

And it actually took me almost two years to go back

and overcome that fear and then triumph

and get the best way of my life...

I mean it was just a really special moment for me

in my life.

I saw the swell coming and I it was like

"If I don't go now,

If I don't chase this swell, If I don't do this,

I... I'm never...

I'll talk myself out of it... forever.

I need to go face my fear and I need to do this."

[crowd cheering]

Something about conquering your fear that is just so empowering.

[crowd cheering]

Fearless is ignorant.

Fearless isn't brave.

Brave is being afraid and doing it anyway.

[♪♪♪]

It is a passion, I love the way it makes me feel.

It makes me feel alive.

Big waves give me an adrenalin rush that

normal-size waves don't.

So much water swirling around you with all this energy...

I just feel like all this energy.

It's really hard to explain what it likes.

But it's intense and you're in it.

When you come out and you make it Oh my God,

it's like the best feeling in the world.

You feel like you're the master of the universe.

[host 6] The winner of the purest barrel of the Year Award

is Keala Kenelly.

[crowd applauding]

[Keala] I was always had to go my own way

and it was against everything.

Always.

My parents look at me like: God, you just try to make

your life hard for yourself with the choices you have made?"

And I am like: I am just being me,

I just being true to myself".

[♪♪♪]

You have to be really strong.

You gotta be able to pick yourself up

when you being knocked down.

That's the main thing cause you're always gonna get knocked

down as a woman.

In life you're gonna knocked down a lot.

It's the ones that can pick themselves up and rise again.

[♪♪♪]

Hi!

Hey, Cinta!

Come on.

Ready to go surfing.

I'm a shaper and then Cinta's boards

from her learning out of seven-foot minimal

and then progressing the better she got...

I spoilt her. I was giving her a board every two months!

And every time I gave her one, a shorter one,

I thought, "No way, she can't ride this."

"This is gonna take her for ever to get used to this!"

Two or three days later, "Dad, I love this board!"

Go, go, go.

She's becoming really quite good at surfing small waves

but now to ride bigger waves that's the challenge.

[♪♪♪]

I wanted her to take it to that point where she can just

go surf by herself.

[♪♪♪]

I'm not scared of the water but big wave...

not all the time but sometimes

when it gets really big...yeah...

I get scared.

I just gotta push myself

to do it,

like I just gotta have it in my own.

[♪♪♪]

[Bruce] It's like a new door opening now,

it's Chinta ask to challenge herself.

[♪♪♪]

And it can't come from me.

It has to come from inside of her

to overcome the fear of bigger waves.

My heart was pumping so hard

but that makes me braver.

Yeah.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[Andrea] I don't know what happened way back in the time

that made women with this image

of being a fragile thing.

Women, mothers

they're strong.

They're multitaskers and they go to so much.

It's undescribable what it is to be a woman.

I always enjoyed long distance.

I love the fact that I can travel on the surface

of the ocean and go from an island to another island.

It's from history

like they colonized, they discovered land

and paddling can actually allow you

to do that you can travel.

It's never easy, it's long.

The first hour you're happy, you're in the ocean,

you're surfing.

By the forth hour you're counting your minutes

to get to the end.

The finish line, it's a huge feeling.

It's a huge achievement.

It's like the achievement of dropping that big wave,

it's like the achievement of saving somebody's life.

[Andrea] I always look for challenges.

Once I have that in my head I have to go

and achieve it.

I need a challenge to keep going.

[♪♪♪]

I think I choose the ocean because it was part of my life

from what I remember as a child.

[♪♪♪]

We had nothing but the ocean as a kid.

There's the ocean, there's your playground.

I think for me to challenge the ocean

and be challenged by the nature of the ocean

it makes me feel alive.

[♪♪♪]

The ocean is a moment for myself.

Sometimes I need the silence and that is just

the ocean and I.

[music playing]

I started my career of athletes

after I had my daughter.

Keala is her own little person

and it's very interesting to see that.

As a parent I'm very connected to the ocean

and I want her to be the swimmer

and the surfer.

But I always had this 'I'm gonna teach you

how to love the ocean like I do.'

And then as they grow they will love things

how they love things and you can't force them.

And I have to respect whatever she likes

and whatever makes her happy.

I will support her.

[♪♪♪]

She really likes horses and she knows that I'm not that

comfortable with it.

So she wants to ride, she is like "Come ride with me mom

and see how tough you are now.'

She's teaching me a lot.

I love my child so much that it's scary

because nothing can happen to her.

The fear of something happening to her.

Oh, just thinking of mom.

Moms that lost their kids, you know, it's like...

And I've been seeing at my job you know...

you just spoke to a child

and you have to talk to the mom...

Man..

Mentally you have to be really strong in this job.

I got to see people dying in the water in the ocean

and a lot of times I show up to the scene

and the person's still alive and you have to do everything

you can and a lot of times the person doesn't make it.

And at the beginning of my career that is really hard.

But than as you mature into this career you need

to remember that: I did everything I could.

It was a good six years of school

to become a paramedic.

Once I put my foot in the classroom

I was where I wanted to be.

I have a passion for being able to help people,

being able to save a live and make a difference.

It's separate from the sport, it's separate from the ocean.

It's another break, it's another place,

where I get a happy feeling.

Center Medic 2 responding.

[indistinct radio chatter]

This is my castle.

None of this equipment came easy,

nothing was really given

and as I started surfing bigger and bigger,

the boards start going bigger and bigger.

This is one of the boards that I trust my life on it

because you're going to the biggest wave

you can catch in the day.

This winter was exceptional.

This winter was just perfect.

This time I was just committed.

I was going two hundred miles an hour.

I was working, straight from work to Jaws.

And then from Jaws to pick up the kid in school

and I buy a ticket to go to Mavericks

on the next day you know.

You was like you know like doing everything

as much as I can, life is too short.

[screaming]

-You like strawberry? -Wow strawberry!

[indescribable speech]

[Andrea] Nice..

oh, my God.

I left work at six in the morning,

I worked all night.

I paddled out on my favorite board.

I remember being in the line up with Shane Dorian and Danilo.

They were kind of even giving me hends.

I was trying so hard to catch a wave.

And this one wave just came out of nowhere.

[♪♪♪]

And at that time you almost don't think much.

Maybe the best thing would have for me to kick out,

but I wanted to make it.

[♪♪♪]

I felt like something just took my leg out of my body

for a split second.

I couldn't even speak,

I was in so much pain.

I went back home and straight to the doctor

and got an MRI and found out that

my hamstrings got

detached from the bone.

So my back leg was completely loose on my muscles.

I learned a lot because, you know,

you're so big and you're so strong

and you can surf and you can do all this,

and you can save people's lives, you know.

And the very next day

you are in bed

and you can't save your own life.

It was me and my body and me.

And you're there in bed all day.

And then your kid comes, and then it's you and your kid

and your boyfriend comes.

It's you and your boyfriend.

And your friends come to visit and help you.

And I started growing again.

And it's almost like I'm born again.

[♪♪♪]

My life had a whole new goal, a whole new challenge.

And this injury is not gonna wipe everything down,

but it's gonna make a new block.

And it's a beautiful block.

Even though it was hard and painful

but it's the woman growing.

I want to get stronger, I want to surf again

and I want to surf big waves again.

"The winner of the woman's best performance award

goes to Andrea Molar."

[audience cheering]

I didn't expect to win the award at all.

[audience cheering]

It was a new motivation.

I'm not getting stuck in bed

and taking medication.

If I do win I want to go to the awards walking.

[hooting]

[audience cheering]

[Andrea] Thank you.

I think it's a new era having a contest for women,

having Keala winning the barrel.

[audience cheering]

Thanks all the surfers who are having the women

in the lineup as one of you.

Thank you so much for being a family

in the water,

for welcoming the women and see you next winter!

Thank you!'

[audience cheering]

I think it's just the time of change.

And I'm excited for it.

[Andrea] Not just for me but for the girls are coming after me.

They need to go, they need that chance

Yeah, Sidney!

Hi, Bruce.

If you are watching this, hi Bruce!

-We're having fun! -Yeah!

[Bruce] She got a lot of media attention,

in the last few year especially and now it's even

escalating and becoming more.

[laughing]

One of her sponsors is out of Australia.

They contacted the branch here and said:

Don't lose that girl!.

He said: 'Keep her happy because that girl

has been getting more exposure than any of our

other men riders.

It is not in her nature to be stuck-up

or conceited.

She likes the attention, she likes seeing

that her dream is actually, it's on the way

of becoming true,

that she can be a world-class competitor.

[♪♪♪]

[speaking in foreign language]

[Bruce] I'm guarding Chinta to make sure that if this is her dream

of being the world champion,

I wanna show her the way.

[speaking in foreign language]

I'm getting out of my years, I'm not always gonna be here.

Life's not forever.

I want to hurry up the process

to be able to set her free and into this life of surfing.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

When my husband died all my energy went towards Todd.

All my energy was with him.

And so when Todd died that was

the most heaviest thing that could ever happen to me.

Todd was surfing big waves and he surfed big waves

all the time

and it was a big day that day

but I don't know that's the question that I asked

all the time why did this happen to Todd.

Why did it happen,

why am I still struggle every day with this.

Why?

[♪♪♪]

He was very smart, very happy

and just really funny guy made you laugh all the time.

He made friends really easily and just liked

to live life and have fun

and surf big waves

and yeah...

[♪♪♪]

I kept thinking that he's gonna come in that door any minute.

It's gonna be a joke,

this is some type of cosmic joke on me.

I try to think this is reality,

this did happen, okay.

So what are you gonna do now?

You're gonna keep [pointing at her back]?

No, you gonna keep going forward.

[♪♪♪]

They called me on the phone and I was at work

and they told me "Oh you have

this merkel cell carcinoma which is very rare

and we don't know much about it.

I'm like 'What? No way.'

I thought that my son would want me to fight it

and so I decided to fight it and do the chemo.

[♪♪♪]

I was bald, I lost all my hair.

I got very weak.

My friends came and helped me.

They made sure I had food even though I couldn't eat

a lot of times.

They took my garbage out for me, they cleaned the house for me.

And they did all these things that I wasn't able to do.

They helped me so much and I'm so grateful.

That was very traumatic

and very physically and emotionally draining.

But I made it through and the thing that helped me

realize my strength was surfing.

Just being in the water was so healing even though

I couldn't stand on my board or you know at least

I got down to the beach and got in the water

and felt so much better.

That's all I could do.

I could do that and then I could with head lay on the couch

the whole rest of the day.

I did see his face in a wave one time.

I was at Tavarua...

it was cloudbreak, there was only a few people out

and I saw him in the wave, like just

flash of him being there

and I looked around:

"Did anybody else see that and did I really see that?"

I was super happy

but at the same time I was a little bit shocked too.

[♪♪♪]

The ocean was Todd's life.

It didn't take his life, it was his life.

[♪♪♪]

It's not the ocean's fault,

it's just was something that happened.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

The ocean has brought me a lot of peace

and it does give me life,

it makes me appreciate life.

It's just something that keeps me going.

[♪♪♪]

If I die I think I would I wouldn't have to go to work the

next day so that might be a good thing.

But... I wouldn't be able to go surfing but I'd be surfing

in that big barrel and in the sky.

Suffering is not good.

So if it happens I hope it goes quickly or

in Johnny Depp's arms that would be kind of cool.

[laughing]

[♪♪♪]

[Chinta] It is my dream, a dream come true,

get to travel all the way to Hawaii

and also get to see Pipeline

like in real life, not in video and stuff.

And that's great, I hope I have the opportunity to

self-censor and vibe with this swells

and good winds in good direction.

[♪♪♪]

[commentator 3] Big thanks to Rip Curl for bringing this international

ground Search finalist here to Ala Moana Bowls

and another epic location.

And we are looking to get through the entire day today

with 30 minutes heats for the entire day today.

[♪♪♪]

Five, four, three,

two, one.

[commentator 3] Cinta Hansel from Indonesia up and riding.

She does so with a nice snap.

Another snap for Chinta.

[♪♪♪]

The situation in the water, red Cinta Hansel.

You are in the lead with 4-7-7.

And to 1:7

I did pretty good for like

this third one, cuz I made it all the way

to the quarter, which before never

made it to the quarter before, like this is the furthest

I've gone and I'm feeling

very great to compete against best

of the best who won the National final in their own country

and we get to represent our own country.

It's such a great honor that Rip Curl gives to us.

[commentator 3] Coming up in the next scene, so girls you gonna check in

any time with our beach Marshal Ray.

And I get outfitted in New Jersey.

[commentator 3] Cutting down the next scene 5-4-3-

2-1.

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[commentator 3] Priority is going to red.

Red your first Priority with a time check,

red with first Priority.

Last score for blue 0.83.

[♪♪♪]

And we're gonna count this heat out in

5-4-3

2-1.

[♪♪♪]

[Dr. Sylvia] It's impossible to give up hope,

no end of problems.

I'm like everybody else, I see those problems

but I also see plenty reasons for hope.

Plenty of reasons to think

that we have a chance, we cannot go back.

[♪♪♪]

[Dr. Sylvia] We can take ourselves high in the sky

and maybe you could imagine

that you could be up there in the sky

looking back on earth.

It's achievable.

People have gone down to the deepest places in the ocean.

I can follow that dream and do it too.

I did it.

[♪♪♪]

But as a child I dreamed of doing what

I knew other people had done.

Maybe I can do that and maybe something more.

That's what keeps civilization going from one place

to another.

[TED Talk] Now is the time!

Children are natural explorers.

If you just think like a kid anything is possible.

But we too soon get out of that stage

of wonderment.

If you're no longer a child find the child that still lives

inside of you.

It's there.

The sense of wonder is everywhere,

if you just have the openness

to see it.

There're miracles everywhere you look.

When I was 3 years old

I was knocked over by a wave

on a beach in New Jersey,

ocean got my attention.

But what has really held my attention

all these years,

of course it's the beauty

and the glory of the ocean for its own sake:

the rocks, the water, the waves.

But it's life, life in the ocean.

My existence, life itself is

dependent on the fact that

the world is basically blue.

We have this enormous body

of what we call the ocean.

It's a living ocean that makes Earth

habitable for us

and other forms of life as they now exist.

It's taken literally

billions of years of

fine-tuning to create

this amazing blue planet.

Diversity and abundance of life

starts at the surface of the ocean

and goes all the way to the deepest places of the sea.

Eleven kilometers down.

The average depth's 4 kilometers

it's about where the Titanic rests.

This is the maximum I have been into the sea

the average depth.

Only 3 people have been there and, think about it,

12 people have walked on the Moon.

I never at a single moment thought

I'm going to be a scientist or I want to be a scientist.

It was just natural.

It's what I did as a kid,

exploring, getting to know the beach

along New Jersey and then where we lived

on a little farm in South Jersey.

[commentator 4] Their leader is a renowned scientist

Dr. Sylvia Earle,

a marine botanist and an experienced diver.

[Dr. Sylvia] The power of caring

has to begin with the power of knowing and

that's what's missing now.

It isn't the technology.

It's the will, it's the will

to harness the technology,

to make the ocean accessible

to children, to anyone,

poets, musicians,

writers, scientists of course.

But right now it's limited to a very narrow

segment of military

or industrial applications.

And a few lucky scientists.

I've used to more than 30 different kinds of submarines.

Been diving in Lake Baikal, been diving off the coast

of Japan, been diving in places

all over the various places around the world.

But the best dives are coming.

[Dr. Sylvia] We're right at the edge of the greatest era

of exploration ever

for this part of the Universe,

the blue part of our own planet.

The history of life is there,

in the ocean with organisms.

They have ancestry that goes back for as long

as life has existed on earth.

So for me to go into the ocean

it's like diving into time,

diving into

the whole universe

of what life is about.

Respect for the ocean

comes naturally when you understand

that we're just a part of this

vast system, were not detached

from it in some miraculous way.

What we do to the ocean, we do to ourselves.

In my lifetime I've been a witness

to literally the greatest era of change

in all of human history.

There's a sea bird, an albatross that I met

halfway across the Pacific Ocean at Midway Island

and she was sitting on her most recent egg.

She began to fly about the same time

I was beginning to dive.

And that the world that we both have seen

has been a world of unprecedented change.

Fewer squid, a lot more plastic,

airplanes in the sky that weren't there

when she began to fly,

boats all over the ocean changed,

she certainly has witnessed.

She does not, cannot know why,

or even if she knew why,

what to do about it?

But I know why, I do know what to do about it,

but I'm not alone.

There are people all over the planet

who have witnessed these changes.

The great news is you can recover it,

you can.

We haven't lost all the sharks.

We still have 10%, we still have half the coral reefs,

still, maybe 5%

of the Bluefin tuna left

in the Pacific.

They're not all gone.

No hope for things that have been exterminated

and I've been the witness to the loss of a lot

of things in my lifetime.

And we do know what to do about it is lacking

or at least needs to be strengthened,

is the will to really understand,

comprehend our highest priority

must be.

Let's keep the planet safe.

And then we can do all these other wonderful things,

whether it's music and art, health,

whatever it keeps you happy.

We have to be able to breath,

we have to protect the water.

We have to respect other forms of life

because they keep us alive.

Every person has an impact,

whether it's positive

or not so positive.

Now we know,

we can focus on positive things.

Everyone of us can do, everyday

the choices we make that lead us

to a better place.

[commentator 5] It also brings us here our champion

for 2016, she's also the 2014 winner.

Miss Brisa Hennessy.

[crowd cheering]

[Chinta] I don't feel sad, cause I actually did pretty well.

Next year if I have a chance

again to be the International Final.

I really want to win like I'm hungry for it.

[chuckles]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]

[♪♪♪]