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I've followed the Equator across
Africa and across Asia,
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00:00:13,390 --> 00:00:17,110
and now I've got just over
one month to follow the line
3
00:00:17,110 --> 00:00:18,950
across Latin America.
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00:00:18,950 --> 00:00:21,990
Hopefully I'll make it
across the continent
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00:00:21,990 --> 00:00:24,190
in time to ride on a giant wave.
6
00:00:27,070 --> 00:00:29,030
Now, the route is going to take me
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across some of the most
dangerous parts of Colombia
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and some of the most
beautiful parts of Brazil.
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But right now, I get to witness
one of the great wildlife spectacles
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00:00:39,030 --> 00:00:42,270
on the planet,
here on the Galapagos.
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The final leg of
my long trip around the Equator
12
00:01:12,310 --> 00:01:14,190
took me across Latin America.
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00:01:14,190 --> 00:01:17,230
It's a continent
rich in natural resources
14
00:01:17,230 --> 00:01:19,390
and home to the lungs of the planet,
15
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but dogged
by drugs and civil war.
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00:01:23,190 --> 00:01:26,830
I began in the Pacific Ocean,
off the South American mainland,
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at an island archipelago
straddling the Equator -
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the Galapagos - where I witnessed
a spectacular display of wildlife...
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..like nowhere else on Earth.
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It was young Charles Darwin's
visit to the Galapagos in 1835
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that ultimately transformed
our understanding of evolution
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and put these islands on the map.
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Today, I'm being guided around
by conservationist Paul,
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00:01:59,670 --> 00:02:01,790
who wanted to show me the sea lions,
25
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some of the very few mammals
native to the islands.
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Ah!
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00:02:10,270 --> 00:02:12,030
Fantastic!
28
00:02:13,230 --> 00:02:15,310
That was absolutely extraordinary.
29
00:02:16,710 --> 00:02:20,750
This is one of those
breathtaking sort of moments.
30
00:02:20,750 --> 00:02:25,070
The seals are swimming
and dancing all around us
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as we're under the water.
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Scientists regard the Galapagos
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as one of the most precious
habitats on Earth,
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and the islands
are carefully preserved,
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with a whopping 97% of them
declared national park
36
00:02:37,470 --> 00:02:39,470
by the government of Ecuador.
37
00:02:39,470 --> 00:02:43,150
I just had a wonderful moment then
where I was going down
38
00:02:43,150 --> 00:02:45,070
and a sea lion was coming up,
39
00:02:45,070 --> 00:02:47,510
and he looked quite
surprised to see me,
40
00:02:47,510 --> 00:02:52,270
and it just kicked its tail and just
went whoosh, raced out of the way.
41
00:02:52,270 --> 00:02:56,950
It's just... Extraordinary
creatures, they really are.
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00:02:56,950 --> 00:02:58,350
What a privilege.
43
00:03:08,630 --> 00:03:14,630
The landscape here really is
completely otherworldly. It's stark.
44
00:03:14,630 --> 00:03:18,870
Millions of years ago, these islands
emerged from the Pacific Ocean
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00:03:18,870 --> 00:03:21,110
as a result of volcanic activity.
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00:03:21,110 --> 00:03:24,390
Their isolation has helped
keep them unspoiled,
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00:03:24,390 --> 00:03:28,030
providing scientists
with a portal to the past.
48
00:03:28,030 --> 00:03:30,870
A quarter of the shore fish,
half of the plants,
49
00:03:30,870 --> 00:03:34,230
and almost all of the reptiles
are only found here.
50
00:03:37,150 --> 00:03:40,230
The land iguanas are really
the highlight of this island.
51
00:03:40,230 --> 00:03:44,670
You're tripping over them, almost.
Look at this huge beastie here.
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00:03:44,670 --> 00:03:48,510
They're all around us. They're all
around us, they're all on the move.
53
00:03:48,510 --> 00:03:51,830
They don't seem particularly
concerned by our presence. No.
54
00:03:51,830 --> 00:03:54,030
Fearless. Absence of predators,
55
00:03:54,030 --> 00:03:58,310
absence of humans chasing them and
eating them. He's just so close.
56
00:03:58,310 --> 00:04:01,150
You're a fearsome-looking creature.
57
00:04:01,150 --> 00:04:04,030
We have a huge yellow one that's
on the move over here,
58
00:04:04,030 --> 00:04:06,030
and we might have a bit of action.
59
00:04:06,030 --> 00:04:08,670
Looks like he's going to chase
the other females.
60
00:04:08,670 --> 00:04:10,270
Ooh!
61
00:04:11,710 --> 00:04:14,550
He's stopped now
cos we've caught him at it!
62
00:04:14,550 --> 00:04:16,350
They have a hemi-penis.
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00:04:16,350 --> 00:04:20,030
A hemi-penis? What is that? It's
almost like a little double penis,
64
00:04:20,030 --> 00:04:24,070
so it doesn't get too awkward to
have to move things around too much,
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00:04:24,070 --> 00:04:26,350
you just have one on each side.
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00:04:26,350 --> 00:04:30,390
It doesn't mean they can have
two lady iguanas at once? No.
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00:04:30,390 --> 00:04:33,230
But it means if one of them
goes unserviceable,
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00:04:33,230 --> 00:04:35,350
they've got a back-up.
Quite nice.
69
00:04:35,350 --> 00:04:37,910
He's not going to show us
his todger, is he?
70
00:04:37,910 --> 00:04:39,510
No, he doesn't usually.
71
00:04:39,510 --> 00:04:42,990
I'm almost relieved. I'm not sure
I want to have any envy
72
00:04:42,990 --> 00:04:44,990
in that department. No, no.
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00:04:44,990 --> 00:04:47,190
Particularly not from an iguana!
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00:04:49,710 --> 00:04:52,230
How come no mammals
ever made it here?
75
00:04:52,230 --> 00:04:55,990
Do you think they might have done,
and couldn't survive? Well, no.
76
00:04:55,990 --> 00:05:00,270
The biggest limiting factor to life
in Galapagos is the journey across.
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00:05:00,270 --> 00:05:04,270
So if you're coming on floating
rafts on the ocean current,
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00:05:04,270 --> 00:05:07,470
the minimum time it takes to get
here is two weeks. Right.
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00:05:07,470 --> 00:05:09,790
Two weeks without food or water.
80
00:05:09,790 --> 00:05:12,630
That's too long in the baking sun
for a mammal? Exactly.
81
00:05:12,630 --> 00:05:15,790
A mammal cannot live for more than
three days without water.
82
00:05:15,790 --> 00:05:18,030
But reptiles...
Whereas a reptile can.
83
00:05:18,030 --> 00:05:22,590
And that is the limiting factor to
life, terrestrial life on Galapagos.
84
00:05:32,030 --> 00:05:33,550
Argh!
85
00:05:33,550 --> 00:05:36,830
That was one of the worst so far.
86
00:05:38,470 --> 00:05:42,510
'No wonder land mammals had trouble
making it across the ocean.
87
00:05:42,510 --> 00:05:44,830
'As we headed to the capital island,
88
00:05:44,830 --> 00:05:48,830
'Santa Cruz, we were given a real
battering by the Equatorial waters.
89
00:05:50,110 --> 00:05:54,910
'And my idea of a relaxing four-hour
boat trip was disappearing fast.
90
00:05:54,910 --> 00:05:58,350
'One by one,
we all succumbed to seasickness,
91
00:05:58,350 --> 00:06:00,790
'including my producer, Steve.'
92
00:06:00,790 --> 00:06:02,430
HE GROANS
93
00:06:05,030 --> 00:06:07,150
"Come to paradise," they said.
94
00:06:07,150 --> 00:06:09,350
"Have fun," they said.
95
00:06:09,350 --> 00:06:11,230
"See the animals."
96
00:06:11,230 --> 00:06:13,910
Hang on - this is what YOU said!
97
00:06:13,910 --> 00:06:15,390
Argh!
98
00:06:17,670 --> 00:06:20,710
Visitor numbers to
the Galapagos National Park
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00:06:20,710 --> 00:06:23,870
have more than doubled during
the last decade,
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00:06:23,870 --> 00:06:28,350
now reaching 100,000 tourists
a year, and bringing in $200m.
101
00:06:28,350 --> 00:06:31,070
But not all the 30,000 inhabitants
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00:06:31,070 --> 00:06:35,110
of the islands are benefiting
from this influx of cash.
103
00:06:42,510 --> 00:06:43,830
Down at the harbour,
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00:06:43,830 --> 00:06:47,790
it's not only the pelicans who are
scraping together a living.
105
00:06:47,790 --> 00:06:51,630
Fishermen on the islands claim
it's difficult to make a living
106
00:06:51,630 --> 00:06:54,870
because of fishing quotas
imposed by the government,
107
00:06:54,870 --> 00:06:57,870
who say they are trying
to protect fish stocks.
108
00:07:03,750 --> 00:07:06,990
It didn't look as if any of
these fishermen expected
109
00:07:06,990 --> 00:07:09,430
to make their fortune playing cards,
110
00:07:09,430 --> 00:07:14,110
so I thought it was safe enough
to take my chances among the sharks.
111
00:07:14,110 --> 00:07:16,750
Can we play a game with you?
I've got 20.
112
00:07:16,750 --> 00:07:19,270
LOUD CHATTER, LAUGHTER
113
00:07:19,270 --> 00:07:20,830
I've got 20!
114
00:07:20,830 --> 00:07:22,830
Come on, then. Sit here? Yeah. OK.
115
00:07:24,470 --> 00:07:26,390
Are we playing for a lot of money?
116
00:07:28,110 --> 00:07:29,750
LAUGHTER
117
00:07:29,750 --> 00:07:33,190
There's no way
I'm going to win any money!
118
00:07:35,310 --> 00:07:37,790
Protect the cards!
119
00:07:39,470 --> 00:07:42,350
Which one do you think I should
put down? That two. OK.
120
00:07:44,470 --> 00:07:47,830
This happens all the time.
121
00:07:47,830 --> 00:07:51,110
He says you've got the wrong teacher.
HE LAUGHS
122
00:07:51,110 --> 00:07:53,030
I'm a bit flummoxed by this game.
123
00:07:53,030 --> 00:07:56,510
Is this the popular game,
Fleece the Tourist?
124
00:07:59,950 --> 00:08:02,230
LAUGHTER
125
00:08:08,750 --> 00:08:11,910
While conservationists
want to preserve the Galapagos,
126
00:08:11,910 --> 00:08:15,470
these fishermen just
want to make a decent living.
127
00:08:15,470 --> 00:08:19,910
A growing number are furious
about restrictions on their work,
128
00:08:19,910 --> 00:08:23,990
and say the government cares more
for the wildlife than for humans.
129
00:08:23,990 --> 00:08:26,710
In recent years,
the anger boiled over,
130
00:08:26,710 --> 00:08:30,870
and fishermen besieged the
prestigious Darwin Research Centre,
131
00:08:30,870 --> 00:08:33,910
holding scientists
and animals hostage.
132
00:08:33,910 --> 00:08:36,190
Jose defends the protest.
133
00:08:38,750 --> 00:08:42,070
TRANSLATION: All the problems
started because there are too many
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00:08:42,070 --> 00:08:43,910
conservationists in the park.
135
00:08:43,910 --> 00:08:46,510
Have they stopped you working?
136
00:08:46,510 --> 00:08:48,590
Not stopped as such, but we have
137
00:08:48,590 --> 00:08:53,430
a growing problem with sea cucumber
fishing that gets worse every year.
138
00:08:55,030 --> 00:08:58,750
Now we are only allowed to fish it
for two months of the year,
139
00:08:58,750 --> 00:09:00,990
and that has caused many problems.
140
00:09:04,190 --> 00:09:06,910
Also, we have been trying to
sell our local products,
141
00:09:06,910 --> 00:09:08,870
mainly fish, internationally,
142
00:09:08,870 --> 00:09:11,990
and we have got the buyers, but they
have been clamping down on that.
143
00:09:18,230 --> 00:09:19,830
The angry fishermen confined
144
00:09:19,830 --> 00:09:22,910
30 scientists and several rare
tortoises to the Darwin Centre
145
00:09:22,910 --> 00:09:26,750
for four days and refused them
any food or supplies.
146
00:09:30,390 --> 00:09:32,110
You were holding people there,
147
00:09:32,110 --> 00:09:35,270
almost holding them hostage then,
and the tortoises as well?
148
00:09:38,550 --> 00:09:41,270
It took place at the entrance
to the park.
149
00:09:41,270 --> 00:09:44,230
A net barricade was put up
by the gate.
150
00:09:44,230 --> 00:09:46,070
They didn't even try to leave.
151
00:09:46,070 --> 00:09:50,110
They wouldn't have been able to do so
because of the people outside.
152
00:09:50,110 --> 00:09:52,550
There were ten times more of them.
153
00:09:56,630 --> 00:09:59,270
That war was not
started by fishermen.
154
00:09:59,270 --> 00:10:01,470
They were the ones
who started that war.
155
00:10:05,150 --> 00:10:09,310
The gang of disgruntled fishermen
came here to the Darwin Centre,
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00:10:09,310 --> 00:10:11,310
wielding machetes and knives,
157
00:10:11,310 --> 00:10:14,590
and threatened to kill Lonesome
George, one of the best-known
158
00:10:14,590 --> 00:10:16,510
residents of the Galapagos.
159
00:10:19,070 --> 00:10:21,590
I've come to see Lonesome George,
160
00:10:21,590 --> 00:10:24,230
who's really perhaps the
most famous of the tortoises here.
161
00:10:26,110 --> 00:10:28,070
Oh, there he is! He's huge!
162
00:10:28,070 --> 00:10:29,310
Hello, George.
163
00:10:30,750 --> 00:10:34,790
George is an 80-year-old giant
saddleback Galapagos tortoise,
164
00:10:34,790 --> 00:10:36,390
and the last of his kind.
165
00:10:38,150 --> 00:10:42,310
Since 1972, the Darwin Centre has
been trying to save his sub-species
166
00:10:42,310 --> 00:10:44,150
by encouraging him to mate.
167
00:10:44,150 --> 00:10:47,830
But poor old Lonesome George
has always resisted.
168
00:10:47,830 --> 00:10:51,030
What have you been doing
to try and find him a mate?
169
00:10:55,390 --> 00:10:59,990
TRANSLATION:
So that he can reproduce,
a girl came from Switzerland
170
00:10:59,990 --> 00:11:01,830
so that the tortoise can learn
171
00:11:01,830 --> 00:11:04,870
to be friendly with people
because he was very timid.
172
00:11:07,310 --> 00:11:09,470
You're talking about a human?
A human.
173
00:11:09,470 --> 00:11:13,630
A human being? A human Swiss girl,
yeah, a scientist. A scientist.
174
00:11:13,630 --> 00:11:15,630
And why did he need a friend?
175
00:11:15,630 --> 00:11:18,870
He needed her to extract his sperm.
176
00:11:18,870 --> 00:11:21,310
First of all, she started touching
177
00:11:21,310 --> 00:11:25,430
him in sort of strategic areas
and trying to get him excited.
178
00:11:25,430 --> 00:11:29,830
So, this scientist had to masturbate
this giant tortoise? Yes, she did.
179
00:11:29,830 --> 00:11:31,590
Just so we're clear about that.
180
00:11:32,950 --> 00:11:36,310
When the Swiss scientist
failed to produce the goods,
181
00:11:36,310 --> 00:11:39,110
two female tortoises
were moved into George's pen.
182
00:11:39,110 --> 00:11:41,430
But that was more than 14 years ago.
183
00:11:44,350 --> 00:11:51,390
I'm just on my way to see one of
the ladies who George has rejected.
184
00:11:51,390 --> 00:11:55,430
Oh, she's not fantastically
attractive from the back,
185
00:11:55,430 --> 00:11:58,510
but from the front,
I'm reliably informed,
186
00:11:58,510 --> 00:12:01,310
she's a bit of a looker
for a tortoise.
187
00:12:03,390 --> 00:12:05,190
He's the last of his kind.
188
00:12:08,150 --> 00:12:09,670
Aren't you?
189
00:12:11,270 --> 00:12:15,750
It would be such a shame
if his particular sub-species
190
00:12:15,750 --> 00:12:18,190
was to die out
191
00:12:18,190 --> 00:12:19,630
along with him.
192
00:12:23,870 --> 00:12:26,550
The Galapagos are so isolated,
193
00:12:26,550 --> 00:12:29,790
it's an incredible 600 miles
across the Pacific Ocean,
194
00:12:29,790 --> 00:12:31,390
along the Equator,
195
00:12:31,390 --> 00:12:35,630
until you finally hit land again -
the west coast of Ecuador.
196
00:12:37,830 --> 00:12:40,790
I think this is Karina,
who's going to be our guide
197
00:12:40,790 --> 00:12:43,030
and who's going to take us
across Ecuador.
198
00:12:45,470 --> 00:12:46,670
Karina!
199
00:12:55,870 --> 00:12:58,350
DOG BARKS
200
00:13:01,670 --> 00:13:04,510
I wanted to stick closely
to the Equator,
201
00:13:04,510 --> 00:13:07,750
so we hired a four-by-four
to get us across Ecuador's
202
00:13:07,750 --> 00:13:09,270
agricultural heartland.
203
00:13:09,270 --> 00:13:14,070
The population here is a mix
of indigenous tribes,
204
00:13:14,070 --> 00:13:17,270
descendants of African slaves
and of Spanish colonisers.
205
00:13:17,270 --> 00:13:22,470
A full 70% of the 14 million people
live below the poverty line.
206
00:13:26,830 --> 00:13:28,870
My foot is right down.
207
00:13:30,110 --> 00:13:32,110
Straight through it.
208
00:13:34,190 --> 00:13:36,190
ENGINE REVS
209
00:13:37,830 --> 00:13:41,150
Go, go, go, go, go, go!
210
00:13:41,150 --> 00:13:42,910
Go, go! Ow!
211
00:13:51,630 --> 00:13:54,670
Sounds like the engine's
going to explode.
212
00:13:54,670 --> 00:13:57,150
Go, go, go, go, go, go, go!
213
00:13:57,150 --> 00:14:00,150
Go, go, go! Oh...
214
00:14:04,310 --> 00:14:06,670
OK, we're stuck.
215
00:14:06,670 --> 00:14:08,070
Oh, dear.
216
00:14:08,070 --> 00:14:10,110
Oh, and it's so sticky.
217
00:14:10,110 --> 00:14:13,470
KARINA LAUGHS
218
00:14:13,470 --> 00:14:18,430
So, now we sort of know
how difficult it's going to be...
219
00:14:18,430 --> 00:14:20,670
to travel along the Equator.
220
00:14:24,190 --> 00:14:26,270
There's the town.
I can see the town.
221
00:14:28,110 --> 00:14:31,030
'We managed to free ourselves
from the mud,
222
00:14:31,030 --> 00:14:33,030
'but that was the easy bit.'
223
00:14:35,110 --> 00:14:36,710
Oh, no!
224
00:14:37,950 --> 00:14:39,230
Argh!
225
00:14:44,550 --> 00:14:48,310
There's no way we're going to
get across there.
226
00:14:53,190 --> 00:14:55,390
Argh! What do you think?
227
00:14:56,950 --> 00:15:02,310
It's very frustrating, cos we've
just driven a hell of a long way.
228
00:15:06,190 --> 00:15:08,830
THEY SPEAK IN SPANISH
229
00:15:10,150 --> 00:15:12,750
He does not recommend us to cross,
230
00:15:12,750 --> 00:15:18,270
because if the car turns off,
the river will take us. Really? Yeah.
231
00:15:18,270 --> 00:15:21,830
He has people that can push us.
232
00:15:21,830 --> 00:15:24,350
Push us? Oh, that's very kind.
233
00:15:24,350 --> 00:15:28,230
OK, I think we should
try and drive across, then.
234
00:15:35,030 --> 00:15:39,510
These guys, the villagers, are
very kindly standing in the water.
235
00:15:39,510 --> 00:15:42,150
They are going to guide
our car across,
236
00:15:42,150 --> 00:15:44,350
which means I've gotta drive
through the river,
237
00:15:44,350 --> 00:15:47,990
which I'm a little bit nervous
about, to be honest. OK!
238
00:15:47,990 --> 00:15:49,270
OK! OK!
239
00:15:52,310 --> 00:15:56,150
'I was hoping to make it across,
and stay dry.'
240
00:15:56,150 --> 00:15:57,310
Oh...
241
00:16:02,070 --> 00:16:05,070
I can feel the water.
242
00:16:05,070 --> 00:16:07,030
Gracias!
243
00:16:07,030 --> 00:16:09,350
Aye, aye, aye.
244
00:16:09,350 --> 00:16:11,790
OK, we're having trouble now.
245
00:16:13,070 --> 00:16:16,470
OK, OK. Ah, we're drifting.
246
00:16:16,470 --> 00:16:18,470
SHOUTING
247
00:16:21,150 --> 00:16:23,150
KARINA: Bravo!
248
00:16:23,150 --> 00:16:24,790
Yes!
249
00:16:28,230 --> 00:16:31,510
Gracias! Everybody who's wet
gets a beer, I think.
250
00:16:31,510 --> 00:16:34,630
These guys deserve lots of beers.
OK.
251
00:16:34,630 --> 00:16:36,550
Beers all around.
252
00:16:36,550 --> 00:16:38,390
Hey!
253
00:16:38,390 --> 00:16:41,910
Does anybody else need a beer?
254
00:16:50,190 --> 00:16:53,910
Due to a major fault line that
cuts across the Equator,
255
00:16:53,910 --> 00:16:58,110
Ecuador has one of the greatest
densities of volcanoes in the world.
256
00:16:58,110 --> 00:17:03,190
Its Avenue Of The Volcanoes
is a stunning 325km-long valley.
257
00:17:05,030 --> 00:17:09,870
Tucked away, right in the middle
of these volcanoes, lies Quito,
258
00:17:09,870 --> 00:17:12,910
the world's second-highest
capital city.
259
00:17:15,790 --> 00:17:20,950
1.8 million people, surrounded
by several active volcanoes.
260
00:17:25,510 --> 00:17:29,390
Experts say they are expecting
a huge eruption,
261
00:17:29,390 --> 00:17:32,470
but no-one seems
to be taking any notice.
262
00:17:47,030 --> 00:17:50,510
We set off from Quito
to climb the volcano Pichincha,
263
00:17:50,510 --> 00:17:54,190
the closest volcano to the city,
and the most threatening.
264
00:17:57,190 --> 00:18:00,470
Pichincha has erupted
at least 25 times.
265
00:18:00,470 --> 00:18:03,910
The worst eruption was in 1660,
266
00:18:03,910 --> 00:18:09,590
when more than 25cm of ash and
volcanic rock covered the capital.
267
00:18:13,990 --> 00:18:16,070
We'd arranged to meet Theo,
268
00:18:16,070 --> 00:18:19,190
a volcanologist
on a mission to save Quito.
269
00:18:21,270 --> 00:18:24,030
Hi, Simon. Theo. Hi, Theo.
Here's Simon. Hiya.
270
00:18:24,030 --> 00:18:26,230
How are you? Nice to meet you.
271
00:18:26,230 --> 00:18:29,110
You look as though you've got
properly togged up there.
272
00:18:29,110 --> 00:18:31,750
We're regularly up here,
we know what to do.
273
00:18:36,030 --> 00:18:41,070
In 1993, two volcanologists
were killed climbing Pichincha.
274
00:18:43,310 --> 00:18:45,350
They were working at
the crater mouth
275
00:18:45,350 --> 00:18:47,270
when Pichincha suddenly erupted,
276
00:18:47,270 --> 00:18:52,270
hurling out steam and ash, killing
the two scientists instantly.
277
00:18:52,270 --> 00:18:54,870
Theo was taking me
to the very same crater.
278
00:18:58,670 --> 00:19:00,630
We just take it...
279
00:19:00,630 --> 00:19:02,430
nice and slow.
280
00:19:07,350 --> 00:19:11,590
Is there any connection between
the Equator, the actual line,
281
00:19:11,590 --> 00:19:13,190
the Equatorial line,
282
00:19:13,190 --> 00:19:15,510
and all these volcanoes?
I would say yes.
283
00:19:15,510 --> 00:19:18,870
All those volcanoes which are
bordering us are the result
284
00:19:18,870 --> 00:19:21,070
of this chain of volcanoes,
285
00:19:21,070 --> 00:19:24,310
which were born
or formed at the Galapagos.
286
00:19:24,310 --> 00:19:29,030
Now, those volcanoes, they move
toward the South America continent.
287
00:19:29,030 --> 00:19:31,470
There is a connection.
You cannot deny this.
288
00:19:31,470 --> 00:19:33,670
A person denying this
must be religious,
289
00:19:33,670 --> 00:19:35,150
with no idea from science.
290
00:19:35,150 --> 00:19:39,190
Is anybody listening to you
when you're warning about this?
291
00:19:39,190 --> 00:19:41,030
People live there, they say,
292
00:19:41,030 --> 00:19:44,830
"I always lived here. Nothing
happened the last 30 years.
293
00:19:44,830 --> 00:19:48,550
"Oh, nothing big." They just want
to forget, to ignore the danger.
294
00:19:48,550 --> 00:19:50,950
But I say, " No, this is stupid."
295
00:19:50,950 --> 00:19:52,670
Craziness? Craziness, exactly.
296
00:19:52,670 --> 00:19:54,830
The threat is there, it's out there.
297
00:20:03,550 --> 00:20:06,510
'We climbed nearly 5km
into the clouds,
298
00:20:06,510 --> 00:20:08,830
'more than halfway up Everest.'
299
00:20:08,830 --> 00:20:11,030
HE PANTS
300
00:20:11,030 --> 00:20:14,510
'The altitude left me
breathless and exhausted.'
301
00:20:16,150 --> 00:20:18,190
We're on top of the world.
302
00:20:20,630 --> 00:20:22,430
Oh, it's knackering up here.
303
00:20:25,070 --> 00:20:27,710
You've got to be a mountain goat
to go up here.
304
00:20:33,830 --> 00:20:36,670
Theo, promise me we're nearly there.
305
00:20:41,350 --> 00:20:43,790
Theo, we've made it!
306
00:20:46,630 --> 00:20:49,430
We can't see down into the crater.
307
00:20:49,430 --> 00:20:52,110
The weather is absolutely terrible.
308
00:20:56,990 --> 00:20:59,990
You've brought me
to the top of the world.
309
00:20:59,990 --> 00:21:02,230
I'm absolutely shattered.
310
00:21:02,230 --> 00:21:06,910
'The mouth of the crater, where the
two scientists had met their end,
311
00:21:06,910 --> 00:21:09,590
'might seem a dangerous place
to stop for a picnic,
312
00:21:09,590 --> 00:21:13,430
'but Theo had brought
some artichoke hearts.' Mmm!
313
00:21:16,870 --> 00:21:18,510
Cheers!
314
00:21:18,510 --> 00:21:21,230
I think it's time to go down.
315
00:21:26,630 --> 00:21:29,030
We continued east towards Colombia,
316
00:21:29,030 --> 00:21:33,550
intending to cross the border on the
Putumayo River, near the Equator.
317
00:21:33,550 --> 00:21:37,310
But our travel plans were scuppered
by the Colombian authorities,
318
00:21:37,310 --> 00:21:41,070
who forced us to make an annoying
detour north, away from the Equator,
319
00:21:41,070 --> 00:21:45,150
to Ipiales, where there is a heavily
controlled immigration point.
320
00:21:48,790 --> 00:21:52,630
The word "Colombia" is just
synonymous with assassinations
321
00:21:52,630 --> 00:21:54,550
and death squads and murder
322
00:21:54,550 --> 00:21:58,990
and cocaine and drugs and killings
and kidnapping of Westerners.
323
00:21:58,990 --> 00:22:00,750
Welcome to Colombia.
324
00:22:09,070 --> 00:22:11,270
Hi, Simon. Nice to meet you.
325
00:22:11,270 --> 00:22:16,190
'My Colombian guide, Juan Pablo
met me in Puerto Asis,'
326
00:22:16,190 --> 00:22:18,430
a jungle town on my route south,
327
00:22:18,430 --> 00:22:21,070
as I tried to get
back onto the Equator.
328
00:22:21,070 --> 00:22:24,110
Puerto Asis is the heart
of the multi-billion-pound
329
00:22:24,110 --> 00:22:25,230
cocaine industry.
330
00:22:32,070 --> 00:22:35,870
Government forces have militarised
the town in an attempt
331
00:22:35,870 --> 00:22:38,150
to recapture this entire region
332
00:22:38,150 --> 00:22:41,390
from the Revolutionary
Armed Forces of Colombia - FARC -
333
00:22:41,390 --> 00:22:43,390
left-wing guerrilla rebels
334
00:22:43,390 --> 00:22:46,670
who have been at war
with the state since the 1960s.
335
00:22:49,270 --> 00:22:53,990
How safe is it in the town
where we are now, for foreigners?
336
00:22:53,990 --> 00:23:00,070
Yeah, I mean the town is a little
bit difficult for everybody.
337
00:23:00,070 --> 00:23:02,550
Difficult? What does that mean?!
338
00:23:02,550 --> 00:23:04,350
Very, very dangerous.
339
00:23:09,430 --> 00:23:11,270
'Getting back onto the Equator
340
00:23:11,270 --> 00:23:15,110
'would take us through one of the
most dangerous regions of Colombia,
341
00:23:15,110 --> 00:23:18,950
'where the army regularly
battles with FARC guerrillas.'
342
00:23:21,190 --> 00:23:23,670
HE SPEAKS IN SPANISH
343
00:23:29,230 --> 00:23:31,750
To secure safe passage south,
344
00:23:31,750 --> 00:23:35,630
we needed the help of
the local Army commander,
345
00:23:35,630 --> 00:23:39,070
Lieutenant Colonel Quintero,
a man whose battles with FARC
346
00:23:39,070 --> 00:23:41,510
have left him with a hefty
price on his head.
347
00:23:44,150 --> 00:23:47,230
What we didn't expect was
that the colonel would insist
348
00:23:47,230 --> 00:23:50,870
on personally escorting us,
along with his armed bodyguards.
349
00:23:56,630 --> 00:24:01,230
I'd just hitched a ride with
one of the FARC's most-wanted men.
350
00:24:04,070 --> 00:24:07,110
I know you've got a bounty
on your head.
351
00:24:07,110 --> 00:24:10,790
Do you know how much money
FARC is offering for you,
352
00:24:10,790 --> 00:24:14,270
and what are the chances of you
getting attacked?
353
00:24:14,270 --> 00:24:18,590
TRANSLATION: FARC have offered a
lot of money, but they can't stop me.
354
00:24:18,590 --> 00:24:20,510
We die the day we're meant to.
355
00:24:26,870 --> 00:24:31,270
Despite assurances from the colonel
that the army was now in control,
356
00:24:31,270 --> 00:24:34,950
dozens of soldiers had been
killed in recent battles,
357
00:24:34,950 --> 00:24:37,190
and FARC were
still launching attacks,
358
00:24:37,190 --> 00:24:40,430
in this case,
bombing the town's oil supply.
359
00:24:40,430 --> 00:24:44,470
OK, it's formed this sort of lake
of just oily water.
360
00:24:44,470 --> 00:24:48,150
Why do you think
they attacked the pipeline?
361
00:24:48,150 --> 00:24:51,990
TRANSLATION: They want to punish
the civilian population
362
00:24:51,990 --> 00:24:54,230
because they support the state,
363
00:24:54,230 --> 00:24:56,070
the government, the army.
364
00:24:57,710 --> 00:25:00,710
They always attack
the civilian population.
365
00:25:00,710 --> 00:25:03,270
We are here to protect
defenceless civilians.
366
00:25:13,550 --> 00:25:16,950
God, I mean it just looks like
we're part of the bloody army,
367
00:25:16,950 --> 00:25:20,030
doesn't it, now? This is
exactly what we didn't want.
368
00:25:20,030 --> 00:25:22,990
We wanted to keep away
from the military if we could.
369
00:25:22,990 --> 00:25:26,150
We're now connected
with the military,
370
00:25:26,150 --> 00:25:28,550
and that makes us
a much more inviting target.
371
00:25:33,230 --> 00:25:37,710
Behind the camera, there's about
15 soldiers following us.
372
00:25:41,350 --> 00:25:44,190
We need to get out of here.
Let's go.
373
00:25:46,870 --> 00:25:49,390
'We decided it'd be safer
to leave the colonel
374
00:25:49,390 --> 00:25:53,630
'and his bodyguards behind,
and continue south on our own.
375
00:25:53,630 --> 00:25:57,630
'This stretch of the road
sees regular FARC activity,
376
00:25:57,630 --> 00:26:01,430
'and I didn't want to be
caught up in any crossfire.'
377
00:26:10,430 --> 00:26:14,150
We only got a few
hundred metres outside town
378
00:26:14,150 --> 00:26:18,310
and we've just been pulled over by a
few of the Colombian army soldiers.
379
00:26:32,150 --> 00:26:34,150
I heard the word "gringo" there.
380
00:26:36,470 --> 00:26:39,470
The FARC is very eager
to kidnap gringos,
381
00:26:39,470 --> 00:26:41,270
or to see if they can get some...
382
00:26:41,270 --> 00:26:44,750
I hate that word "kidnap"!
I hate that word.
383
00:26:44,750 --> 00:26:47,990
This is what life is like here,
for the people who live here.
384
00:26:47,990 --> 00:26:50,830
Constant checkpoint, conflict,
385
00:26:50,830 --> 00:26:53,070
two sides battling
against each other.
386
00:26:53,070 --> 00:26:54,470
For the locals,
387
00:26:54,470 --> 00:26:57,670
they just want to get on with
their lives and pass through.
388
00:27:05,870 --> 00:27:10,150
Later that day, we reached the
unnervingly quiet town of Teteye,
389
00:27:10,150 --> 00:27:13,590
which had been attacked
and captured several times
390
00:27:13,590 --> 00:27:15,710
by one side, and then the other.
391
00:27:15,710 --> 00:27:17,950
The population has dwindled
to a few dozen.
392
00:27:30,230 --> 00:27:33,270
This is the president of the town.
393
00:27:33,270 --> 00:27:37,750
He's just come and found us,
he's come straight from his fields.
394
00:27:40,990 --> 00:27:43,430
Why has everybody left?
395
00:27:45,870 --> 00:27:47,910
TRANSLATION: They were afraid,
396
00:27:47,910 --> 00:27:51,790
because sometimes there is
conflict between the two sides.
397
00:27:55,310 --> 00:27:58,070
They came here and cautioned them...
398
00:27:59,670 --> 00:28:01,110
..then killed them.
399
00:28:02,750 --> 00:28:05,390
Shot them in the head.
400
00:28:05,390 --> 00:28:07,750
And who did this?
401
00:28:07,750 --> 00:28:11,030
TRANSLATION: It was the army.
402
00:28:17,150 --> 00:28:22,630
The army came here and started
to ask, "Where are the guerrillas?"
403
00:28:26,310 --> 00:28:30,350
But people don't have anything
to do with the guerrillas,
404
00:28:30,350 --> 00:28:33,230
so they don't give the army
any information.
405
00:28:42,950 --> 00:28:47,630
'Colonel Quintero had insisted
the army was protecting civilians,
406
00:28:47,630 --> 00:28:51,510
'but if what the president
of this town says is true,
407
00:28:51,510 --> 00:28:55,510
'it's clear the people of Colombia
suffer, whoever's in charge.
408
00:28:55,510 --> 00:28:59,190
'In the decades of fighting between
the army, right-wing paramilitaries
409
00:28:59,190 --> 00:29:02,430
'and the FARC,
tens of thousands have died
410
00:29:02,430 --> 00:29:05,030
'and millions have been
forced to leave their homes.'
411
00:29:16,270 --> 00:29:19,510
We travelled deeper
into south-east Colombia,
412
00:29:19,510 --> 00:29:24,910
finally joining the Putumayo river,
and heading towards the Equator,
413
00:29:24,910 --> 00:29:27,430
now just a few kilometres ahead.
414
00:29:31,190 --> 00:29:32,750
This is beautiful!
415
00:29:37,790 --> 00:29:40,310
'Entering La Paya National Park,
416
00:29:40,310 --> 00:29:44,910
'we hitched a ride
with head gamekeeper Carlos.
417
00:29:44,910 --> 00:29:47,950
'Hundreds of bird species
thrive here at the western edge
418
00:29:47,950 --> 00:29:49,070
'of the Amazon Basin.'
419
00:29:55,910 --> 00:29:59,590
The Equatorial line cuts
right through your park,
420
00:29:59,590 --> 00:30:02,110
but we're in southern Colombia,
421
00:30:02,110 --> 00:30:04,830
which doesn't really
attract many tourists.
422
00:30:04,830 --> 00:30:08,670
Do you get many visitors, many
foreigners or tourists coming here?
423
00:30:08,670 --> 00:30:12,950
TRANSLATION: In Colombia, as in the
rest of the world, when people hear
424
00:30:12,950 --> 00:30:15,150
the name Putumayo, they reject it.
425
00:30:15,150 --> 00:30:17,710
They are scared of coming here.
426
00:30:19,270 --> 00:30:22,670
But the conflict is not as bad here
as it is elsewhere in the region.
427
00:30:34,870 --> 00:30:41,390
14, 11, eight, five, two, one -
we've just crossed the Equator.
428
00:30:42,590 --> 00:30:45,230
We've just crossed! Congratulations!
429
00:30:47,670 --> 00:30:49,710
This is the centre of the world.
430
00:30:49,710 --> 00:30:50,710
Amazing!
431
00:30:52,550 --> 00:30:55,470
I think we should try
and land and set up camp.
432
00:30:56,910 --> 00:31:00,070
Looks like there's no food. What?
433
00:31:00,070 --> 00:31:01,790
Looks like there's no food.
434
00:31:04,470 --> 00:31:06,550
'It seems we'd inadvertently omitted
435
00:31:06,550 --> 00:31:09,910
'to bring some rather essential
items of our jungle inventory.'
436
00:31:09,910 --> 00:31:11,630
We really haven't got any food.
437
00:31:12,750 --> 00:31:14,390
'Namely, our dinner.
438
00:31:14,390 --> 00:31:18,030
'Apart from a bit of rice,
which wouldn't feed us all.'
439
00:31:18,030 --> 00:31:20,390
Everybody on our team
is now going to pitch in
440
00:31:20,390 --> 00:31:23,030
to try and find us some food,
441
00:31:23,030 --> 00:31:27,110
because otherwise our stomachs are
going to be rumbling all night.
442
00:31:28,110 --> 00:31:31,350
'Like all good cameramen,
ours had come well prepared.'
443
00:31:31,350 --> 00:31:33,470
What's that you've got?
444
00:31:34,990 --> 00:31:37,710
Rum. It's good.
445
00:31:38,830 --> 00:31:40,710
BOAT CLANKS
446
00:31:41,830 --> 00:31:43,310
Yes.
447
00:31:43,310 --> 00:31:45,750
Ah, jinks!
448
00:31:56,950 --> 00:31:58,790
OK, OK.
449
00:31:58,790 --> 00:32:00,390
What is that?
450
00:32:00,390 --> 00:32:01,630
A tarantula!
451
00:32:03,310 --> 00:32:06,670
Ahhhh... Let's get serious, though.
Don't get so close to it!
452
00:32:06,670 --> 00:32:08,710
It's not going to jump to your face.
453
00:32:10,150 --> 00:32:15,030
That's a small one, but
there must be mummy round here.
454
00:32:16,230 --> 00:32:18,070
Did Simon come back?
455
00:32:19,230 --> 00:32:22,470
These are desperate times.
Every man for himself.
456
00:32:24,350 --> 00:32:25,750
Tsk, tsk.
457
00:32:25,750 --> 00:32:29,030
You shouldn't make any noise,
there's an alligator there.
458
00:32:35,750 --> 00:32:37,790
I'm starting to find
the Colombian jungle
459
00:32:37,790 --> 00:32:39,390
a slightly dangerous place to be.
460
00:32:39,390 --> 00:32:42,150
We have to be quiet because
there's an alligator in front of us.
461
00:32:46,110 --> 00:32:47,710
THUMP ON BOAT
462
00:32:49,150 --> 00:32:50,350
MORE THUMPS
463
00:32:51,950 --> 00:32:55,630
Life on the Equator, who would have
thought it could be such fun(?)
464
00:32:59,510 --> 00:33:02,750
There's only one way to deal
with this situation.
465
00:33:07,630 --> 00:33:09,470
It's the only option.
466
00:33:12,710 --> 00:33:14,710
'It was looking as if we'd have
to resort to a liquid diet,
467
00:33:19,990 --> 00:33:20,830
'Well, our Colombian fisherman
friend did.'
468
00:33:22,470 --> 00:33:25,670
There is a fish. The man has a fish.
469
00:33:25,670 --> 00:33:28,110
Look at the teeth on it.
470
00:33:28,110 --> 00:33:30,590
That is not going to
feed eight people.
471
00:33:30,590 --> 00:33:33,910
Can you go out and
catch another 20 of them?
472
00:33:38,710 --> 00:33:41,150
Oh, wow, is this for us?
473
00:33:43,550 --> 00:33:47,030
'Carlos cooked us a jungle feast
with our rice, and the few fish.
474
00:33:48,870 --> 00:33:52,110
'We weren't to know this would be
our last hot meal for a few days,
475
00:33:52,110 --> 00:33:55,670
'as the next morning we were
going in search of a remote tribe
476
00:33:55,670 --> 00:33:59,430
'who we'd been told had a sacred
monument to the centre of the world.
477
00:34:00,870 --> 00:34:03,470
'All I had to do now
was negotiate my hammock.'
478
00:34:05,390 --> 00:34:05,670
Oh, please hold.
479
00:34:07,150 --> 00:34:08,350
Ah.
480
00:34:12,310 --> 00:34:13,750
Aaah!
481
00:34:17,470 --> 00:34:18,710
Goodnight, everybody.
482
00:34:22,670 --> 00:34:24,670
I'll have breakfast at nine, please.
483
00:34:41,470 --> 00:34:44,710
'We chartered a small plane
from a nearby jungle airstrip,
484
00:34:44,710 --> 00:34:48,790
'and headed to one of the remotest
parts of the Colombian Amazon.'
485
00:34:55,910 --> 00:34:57,910
Just crossed the Equator,
486
00:34:57,910 --> 00:35:01,150
we're now going to head east
directly along it.
487
00:35:08,470 --> 00:35:12,750
Beneath us now is an awful lot
of jungle but not many villages.
488
00:35:12,750 --> 00:35:16,710
But there is one at a place called
Pacoa which we're heading to now
489
00:35:16,710 --> 00:35:19,830
where they have a monument
signifying that they're at
490
00:35:19,830 --> 00:35:20,990
the centre of the world.
491
00:35:42,110 --> 00:35:44,310
That was perfect!
492
00:35:53,750 --> 00:35:59,270
'The tribe at Piedra Ni live 15 days
by boat from the nearest town.
493
00:35:59,270 --> 00:36:02,710
'And hadn't had a foreign
visitor for more than 20 years.'
494
00:36:05,270 --> 00:36:07,710
Hola. Buenos.
495
00:36:07,710 --> 00:36:11,510
I'm not sure they see many
foreign film crews here,
496
00:36:11,510 --> 00:36:14,310
or if they see any
foreigners at all.
497
00:36:18,350 --> 00:36:20,390
Look at this.
498
00:36:20,390 --> 00:36:25,510
'We stumbled into the main hall,
clearly the heart of the community.
499
00:36:29,550 --> 00:36:32,790
'The children certainly
seemed pleased to see us.'
500
00:36:35,630 --> 00:36:37,750
What is this? Show the camera this.
501
00:36:37,750 --> 00:36:42,950
'But the village shaman wasn't
very happy about our arrival.'
502
00:36:45,990 --> 00:36:49,430
We were told to stop filming.
You need to get permission first
503
00:36:49,430 --> 00:36:52,510
from the village elders
who are just behind me,
504
00:36:52,510 --> 00:36:56,550
so we've just had a very long
meeting and, quite frankly, very
505
00:36:56,550 --> 00:36:59,190
tense negotiations and discussions
506
00:36:59,190 --> 00:37:02,310
with really most of the village.
507
00:37:02,310 --> 00:37:06,110
Everybody's had a say, it's been
democracy in action, really.
508
00:37:06,110 --> 00:37:09,710
But ultimately they've agreed
that we can film.
509
00:37:09,710 --> 00:37:12,790
We're going to go through some
sort of initiation ceremony,
510
00:37:12,790 --> 00:37:16,670
and then we'll be allowed hopefully
to visit their sacred memorial
511
00:37:16,670 --> 00:37:18,270
to the centre of the world.
512
00:37:27,830 --> 00:37:29,870
PANPIPE IS PLAYED
513
00:37:48,750 --> 00:37:51,430
This really is an
extraordinary sight.
514
00:38:03,190 --> 00:38:05,150
LAUGHTER
515
00:38:42,590 --> 00:38:44,630
What is the purpose of the ceremony?
516
00:38:46,270 --> 00:38:51,310
TRANSLATION:
It is performed on very special
occasions, seasons of the year.
517
00:38:51,310 --> 00:38:54,030
Because of the rain, the weather,
518
00:38:54,030 --> 00:38:57,470
because of these things,
we perform the ceremony.
519
00:39:06,350 --> 00:39:09,430
What I really love
is how inclusive it is.
520
00:39:09,430 --> 00:39:12,110
That's how they try and keep
their culture alive.
521
00:39:12,110 --> 00:39:15,270
By getting the young and
the teenagers involved now.
522
00:39:15,270 --> 00:39:19,150
They'll know these dances hopefully
for the rest of their lives.
523
00:39:38,310 --> 00:39:42,830
Early next morning, some of the
elders from this 160-strong tribe
524
00:39:42,830 --> 00:39:44,950
took us to their sacred place.
525
00:39:48,950 --> 00:39:50,830
TRANSLATION: It's just over there.
526
00:39:50,830 --> 00:39:52,470
We'll soon be looking at it.
527
00:39:55,710 --> 00:39:57,510
So we're nearly there?
528
00:39:57,510 --> 00:39:59,950
TRANSLATION:
All these places here are sacred.
529
00:40:03,030 --> 00:40:05,190
It's hard to know what to expect,
530
00:40:05,190 --> 00:40:08,910
because obviously for us it's been
built up into something huge
531
00:40:08,910 --> 00:40:12,150
and hugely significant
and imbued with huge meaning.
532
00:40:12,150 --> 00:40:15,910
And certainly for the people
who live here it does seem
533
00:40:15,910 --> 00:40:18,350
to be the real focus of their lives.
534
00:40:26,190 --> 00:40:28,670
After we've travelled
such a long way,
535
00:40:28,670 --> 00:40:31,190
it's very exciting
to finally see it.
536
00:40:40,190 --> 00:40:43,830
To the people around here,
this is absolutely the very essence
537
00:40:43,830 --> 00:40:47,110
of what it means to live here
and to be part of their tribe.
538
00:41:00,910 --> 00:41:05,670
TRANSLATION: He is saying that the
first figure represents the God.
539
00:41:05,670 --> 00:41:08,950
It is the sun
that is illuminating us now.
540
00:41:08,950 --> 00:41:13,550
Because it is the one that holds the
life of all the indigenous people.
541
00:41:21,830 --> 00:41:23,630
It's extraordinary to think
542
00:41:23,630 --> 00:41:27,710
that tribes around here have
worshipped this and venerated it
543
00:41:27,710 --> 00:41:30,950
as being the centre
of the world for many decades,
544
00:41:30,950 --> 00:41:34,030
and now modern science
is able to confirm for them
545
00:41:34,030 --> 00:41:37,470
that it really does lie at
the actual centre of the planet.
546
00:41:45,990 --> 00:41:47,870
How long it's going to take?
547
00:41:47,870 --> 00:41:52,310
They want to know, because they
don't want to spend too much time.
548
00:41:53,670 --> 00:41:57,190
For some reason, the villagers were
unhappy about the amount of time
549
00:41:57,190 --> 00:41:59,630
we were spending
looking at the monument.
550
00:42:01,630 --> 00:42:04,470
Why don't you
like looking at the monument?
551
00:42:08,150 --> 00:42:11,430
TRANSLATION: This is the sun,
and that is why we cannot look up.
552
00:42:13,830 --> 00:42:19,230
Just as we can't look directly at the
sun, we can't look directly at that,
553
00:42:19,230 --> 00:42:21,870
as we'll lose our sight.
554
00:42:32,150 --> 00:42:35,790
I don't know quite how their
monument to the centre of the world
555
00:42:35,790 --> 00:42:38,430
came to be on the Equator,
but it had been a privilege
556
00:42:38,430 --> 00:42:42,470
to have spent time with the tribe
and witnessed their ceremonies.
557
00:42:45,910 --> 00:42:47,950
Ciao.
558
00:42:49,550 --> 00:42:53,350
We crossed into Brazil through
the back door, on the Uaupes River,
559
00:42:53,350 --> 00:42:55,070
just north of the Equator.
560
00:43:08,350 --> 00:43:11,110
There's a Brazilian military
checkpoint over there
561
00:43:11,110 --> 00:43:14,190
that we need to stop at. They're
not pleased at the fact that
562
00:43:14,190 --> 00:43:16,270
we're crossing the river
at this point,
563
00:43:16,270 --> 00:43:18,670
because there's
no immigration point here.
564
00:43:18,670 --> 00:43:22,070
So whether they're going to let us
go, we're not entirely sure.
565
00:43:22,070 --> 00:43:23,790
Fingers crossed again.
566
00:43:26,790 --> 00:43:29,790
Our somewhat cavalier attitude
to border controls
567
00:43:29,790 --> 00:43:32,390
was making our Brazilian guide
Augusto a little uneasy.
568
00:43:33,910 --> 00:43:35,510
Can you stop filming now?
569
00:43:35,510 --> 00:43:37,110
Why? Military.
570
00:43:37,110 --> 00:43:38,710
Cos what?
571
00:43:38,710 --> 00:43:40,790
Military.
572
00:43:40,790 --> 00:43:43,430
We've landed in Brazil.
573
00:43:43,430 --> 00:43:46,230
So this is the commander
coming down now to see us.
574
00:43:49,310 --> 00:43:52,910
Passport number?
No, your father name.
575
00:43:52,910 --> 00:43:56,430
They're going to let us go and I
think we're going to be all right.
576
00:43:56,430 --> 00:43:57,870
They're not cross or angry.
577
00:43:57,870 --> 00:44:00,470
"You're crossing here?
Nobody crosses here!"
578
00:44:06,350 --> 00:44:08,230
Can we stop now?
579
00:44:08,230 --> 00:44:10,630
Very slow, very slow.
580
00:44:10,630 --> 00:44:12,070
Stop, stop.
581
00:44:13,870 --> 00:44:18,630
Equator! Zero, zero, we've just
crossed from one to the other.
582
00:44:18,630 --> 00:44:22,430
We're crossing an imaginary line but
it's still quite exciting in a way.
583
00:44:22,430 --> 00:44:25,350
We're going from one side
of the planet to the other.
584
00:44:25,350 --> 00:44:26,870
Oh!
585
00:44:34,790 --> 00:44:37,470
Hey, Simon - come on.
586
00:44:37,470 --> 00:44:41,110
Many piranha, alligator, anaconda...
587
00:44:42,750 --> 00:44:44,150
..big monster.
588
00:44:45,790 --> 00:44:47,430
What sort of big monsters?
589
00:44:47,430 --> 00:44:49,470
The only big monster there is you!
590
00:44:54,270 --> 00:44:57,830
Come on, Simon, swim. Hold on,
he's got some valuables.
591
00:44:57,830 --> 00:45:00,830
I've got my passport in my pocket,
for crying out loud!
592
00:45:03,230 --> 00:45:06,950
It does feel quite special,
swimming on the Equator,
593
00:45:06,950 --> 00:45:10,030
even though something
did just brush my ankle,
594
00:45:10,030 --> 00:45:13,430
and I've already been warned
about snakes and piranhas.
595
00:45:13,430 --> 00:45:16,670
We're swimming on the Equator,
596
00:45:16,670 --> 00:45:18,870
along the Equator.
597
00:45:18,870 --> 00:45:20,910
East is this way.
598
00:45:20,910 --> 00:45:22,510
Come on!
599
00:45:29,950 --> 00:45:35,190
The Uaupes River runs directly
along the Equator for 200km,
600
00:45:35,190 --> 00:45:38,790
before joining the River Negro,
deep in the Amazon rainforest.
601
00:45:38,790 --> 00:45:43,870
35,000 Indians from 23 different
tribes populate the riverbanks
602
00:45:43,870 --> 00:45:45,910
along the Uaupes and Negro rivers,
603
00:45:45,910 --> 00:45:49,790
and they could do with some serious
help to protect and preserve
604
00:45:49,790 --> 00:45:52,190
their fast-disappearing way of life.
605
00:45:54,230 --> 00:45:58,910
This is the first community of
people we've seen actually living
606
00:45:58,910 --> 00:46:00,910
on the Equator. It's now 12.17.
607
00:46:00,910 --> 00:46:04,270
Feel a bit cheeky just
turning up in their village.
608
00:46:04,270 --> 00:46:06,070
The community here is very quiet.
609
00:46:07,830 --> 00:46:09,670
I wonder if there's anybody in.
610
00:46:17,790 --> 00:46:21,030
Unfortunately for us, there
doesn't seem to be anybody here.
611
00:46:25,510 --> 00:46:29,270
'Finally, a young woman
appeared from one of the houses.
612
00:46:29,270 --> 00:46:32,270
'She seemed to have
been left behind.
613
00:46:32,270 --> 00:46:35,350
'Thankfully, she didn't
mind a few prying questions.'
614
00:46:35,350 --> 00:46:38,110
Sorry to be so cheeky but
can I ask, are you married?
615
00:46:38,110 --> 00:46:39,510
Do you have children?
616
00:46:39,510 --> 00:46:41,550
HE TRANSLATES
617
00:46:48,870 --> 00:46:52,110
She has one son and
she gave birth one week ago.
618
00:46:52,110 --> 00:46:53,950
One week ago!
619
00:46:53,950 --> 00:46:56,150
Ah, congratulations!
620
00:46:56,150 --> 00:46:57,790
That's incredible!
621
00:46:57,790 --> 00:47:01,030
So she's 17 years old.
622
00:47:01,030 --> 00:47:03,190
So she's not married.
623
00:47:03,190 --> 00:47:08,790
Do you think it will be hard for you
to live as a single mother out here?
624
00:47:08,790 --> 00:47:11,150
TRANSLATION: I think it is difficult,
625
00:47:11,150 --> 00:47:14,990
because he doesn't have his
father here, he's in Sao Gabriel.
626
00:47:17,630 --> 00:47:19,350
It is difficult as a mother -
627
00:47:19,350 --> 00:47:22,150
you don't have the means
to support your child.
628
00:47:24,030 --> 00:47:27,270
Are many of the adults in the
village working in Sao Gabriel?
629
00:47:28,710 --> 00:47:29,510
TRANSLATION:
From here there are nine.
630
00:47:30,790 --> 00:47:31,510
TRANSLATION:
From here there are nine.
631
00:47:35,910 --> 00:47:38,310
Nearly half of the village's men
632
00:47:38,310 --> 00:47:41,870
had been drawn up the river
to the jungle town of Sao Gabriel,
633
00:47:41,870 --> 00:47:42,870
in search of work.
634
00:47:43,950 --> 00:47:46,750
And this looks like Sao Gabriel.
635
00:47:52,430 --> 00:47:56,710
The bars are open and
going strong. Yeah.
636
00:47:56,710 --> 00:47:58,350
10.30am.
637
00:48:02,990 --> 00:48:05,030
'Along the Uaupes and Negro rivers,
638
00:48:05,030 --> 00:48:07,670
'and throughout the
indigenous communities,
639
00:48:07,670 --> 00:48:09,710
'alcohol is banned by federal law,
640
00:48:09,710 --> 00:48:13,070
'but visitors to Sao Gabriel
can enjoy all the usual benefits
641
00:48:13,070 --> 00:48:15,190
'of 24-hour drinking.'
642
00:48:18,550 --> 00:48:20,110
Here's to travelling.
643
00:48:22,990 --> 00:48:26,750
'After several days travelling down
river through the rainforest,
644
00:48:26,750 --> 00:48:29,030
a cold beer was a welcome sight.
645
00:48:29,030 --> 00:48:31,630
'And I wasn't the only person
who thought so.'
646
00:48:38,950 --> 00:48:41,630
Are you waiting for a boat?
647
00:48:41,630 --> 00:48:44,950
TRANSLATION: My boat is about to
leave, but I don't want to go yet.
648
00:48:44,950 --> 00:48:46,470
I want another drink.
649
00:48:47,710 --> 00:48:49,950
Are they waiting for you?
650
00:48:54,590 --> 00:48:56,630
I'm already drunk.
651
00:48:56,630 --> 00:48:58,430
You're already drunk? Yeah.
652
00:48:58,430 --> 00:49:00,710
You're even more of
a lightweight than me!
653
00:49:00,710 --> 00:49:02,870
You've had about that much.
654
00:49:02,870 --> 00:49:06,630
I couldn't have one, actually.
You're falling off the table.
655
00:49:06,630 --> 00:49:08,470
Yes, I'm a bit "oooh"!
656
00:49:08,470 --> 00:49:11,350
'Before the advent
of 24-hour drinking,
657
00:49:11,350 --> 00:49:15,310
'indigenous communities drank
heavily, but only once or twice
658
00:49:15,310 --> 00:49:17,790
'a year at special ceremonies.
659
00:49:17,790 --> 00:49:19,990
'I met Domingo,
the president of FOIRN,
660
00:49:19,990 --> 00:49:22,710
'which campaigns for
the indigenous community.
661
00:49:22,710 --> 00:49:27,310
'He fears this constant availability
of alcohol has spelt disaster
662
00:49:27,310 --> 00:49:28,630
'for the indigenous tribes.'
663
00:49:30,950 --> 00:49:34,190
TRANSLATION: Their biggest dream
is to be in this city, with a job,
664
00:49:34,190 --> 00:49:37,670
and a good standard of living.
But when they arrive here they don't
665
00:49:37,670 --> 00:49:40,310
find the dream that they had when
they were in their communities.
666
00:49:42,350 --> 00:49:43,550
That doesn't exist.
667
00:49:47,510 --> 00:49:51,870
So the indigenous people
end up destroying themselves.
668
00:49:51,870 --> 00:49:56,990
So many indigenous families are
destroying themselves with alcohol.
669
00:50:01,830 --> 00:50:05,270
Little by little,
the culture is forgotten.
670
00:50:08,230 --> 00:50:12,190
Life here
in Sao Gabriel has no dignity.
671
00:50:16,990 --> 00:50:19,710
When you encourage
the indigenous people to leave
672
00:50:19,710 --> 00:50:21,830
their ancestral homes
673
00:50:21,830 --> 00:50:24,790
where they've lived for generations,
and come to a town like this...
674
00:50:24,790 --> 00:50:26,830
HE SLURS HIS WORDS
675
00:50:26,830 --> 00:50:30,670
..and when you promise them or offer
them jobs and education and health
676
00:50:30,670 --> 00:50:32,510
care and then when they come here
677
00:50:32,510 --> 00:50:35,550
and they find that there's
very few jobs... You OK?
678
00:50:35,550 --> 00:50:39,310
Ah? ..Very little health care and
the education is quite expensive,
679
00:50:39,310 --> 00:50:42,270
it's hardly a wonder
they get depressed.
680
00:50:42,270 --> 00:50:45,190
Although, he's not very depressed,
he's quite happily drunk.
681
00:50:45,190 --> 00:50:48,350
And then you throw 24-hour
drinking into the mix,
682
00:50:48,350 --> 00:50:50,470
they're going to turn to the bottle.
683
00:50:50,470 --> 00:50:53,030
As you have, haven't you?
You've turned to the bottle.
684
00:50:56,590 --> 00:50:58,110
Nao falo Portuguese.
685
00:51:00,150 --> 00:51:02,190
I don't speak Portuguese at all.
686
00:51:15,310 --> 00:51:20,070
Leaving Sao Gabriel, we flew
east across the Amazon rainforest.
687
00:51:20,070 --> 00:51:22,870
On the Equator, the forest
remains largely untouched,
688
00:51:22,870 --> 00:51:24,190
due to its remoteness,
689
00:51:24,190 --> 00:51:27,750
but farmers and loggers are
slowly encroaching from the south.
690
00:51:30,910 --> 00:51:33,590
Finally, we approached
Brazil's east coast,
691
00:51:33,590 --> 00:51:36,270
where the many tributaries
of the mighty Amazon
692
00:51:36,270 --> 00:51:37,910
lead to the Atlantic Ocean.
693
00:51:52,310 --> 00:51:55,230
'The final leg of my Equatorial
adventure took me towards
694
00:51:55,230 --> 00:51:57,430
'the mouth of the Araguari river.'
695
00:52:01,630 --> 00:52:04,830
On this river, when the
moon and tides are aligned,
696
00:52:04,830 --> 00:52:09,190
a natural phenomenon occurs pushing
a massive wave back up the river.
697
00:52:10,390 --> 00:52:13,070
The Pororoca is the
longest wave in the world.
698
00:52:15,230 --> 00:52:19,350
A wave which will be attempted
to be surfed, by the daring,
699
00:52:19,350 --> 00:52:21,790
the foolhardy...
700
00:52:21,790 --> 00:52:23,310
and me.
701
00:52:28,590 --> 00:52:31,030
I'm very interested
and excited about this landing
702
00:52:31,030 --> 00:52:32,870
because I've never surfed.
703
00:52:32,870 --> 00:52:36,030
Why is the Pororoca here
on the Amazon Basin,
704
00:52:36,030 --> 00:52:37,950
on the Equator, so special?
705
00:52:40,070 --> 00:52:43,470
TRANSLATION:
Surfers come from all over the world.
706
00:52:43,470 --> 00:52:47,390
On the sea, a wave will
last a maximum of 15 seconds.
707
00:52:48,590 --> 00:52:53,710
With the Pororoca wave,
you can surf for about 30 minutes.
708
00:52:53,710 --> 00:52:58,350
That's why it's considered
the longest wave in the world.
709
00:53:00,390 --> 00:53:04,150
So there are risks involved in
surfing the Pororoca, then?
710
00:53:07,110 --> 00:53:10,550
The risks are that the boat
could roll over or the surfer
711
00:53:10,550 --> 00:53:13,390
could hit something with the board.
712
00:53:13,390 --> 00:53:17,430
There is the chance of all
kinds of animals coming along.
713
00:53:17,430 --> 00:53:20,870
The biggest danger would
be the arraias.
714
00:53:20,870 --> 00:53:25,390
Their poison is so powerful that
it gives you many hours of pain,
715
00:53:25,390 --> 00:53:28,750
and can even make
your whole leg paralysed.
716
00:53:42,030 --> 00:53:45,870
'It was more than a little unnerving
watching an experienced surfer
717
00:53:45,870 --> 00:53:48,310
'like Ejiman prepare for the worst.'
718
00:53:57,150 --> 00:54:00,710
Ejiman, are you excited
about surfing the wave?
719
00:54:12,070 --> 00:54:13,910
Hold tight.
720
00:54:19,590 --> 00:54:22,870
There's quite enough waves already!
721
00:54:29,390 --> 00:54:32,190
He says that it's possible
to see on the horizon...
722
00:54:34,350 --> 00:54:36,510
..a volume of water coming.
723
00:54:40,910 --> 00:54:42,590
Well, I can't see it.
724
00:54:42,590 --> 00:54:44,430
I think I can.
725
00:54:45,430 --> 00:54:49,270
There was a slight
change on the horizon.
726
00:54:56,070 --> 00:54:58,590
OK, maybe now it's not
quite so slight.
727
00:55:01,230 --> 00:55:02,470
Bloody hell!
728
00:55:11,990 --> 00:55:16,910
This has to be the most incredible
natural phenomenon I've ever seen,
729
00:55:16,910 --> 00:55:19,910
this boiling, seething
mass of water.
730
00:55:19,910 --> 00:55:23,990
It really feels like we're being
chased by wild horses,
731
00:55:23,990 --> 00:55:27,430
clawing their way down the river
or up the river.
732
00:55:30,710 --> 00:55:32,550
You're not going to get us!
733
00:55:38,030 --> 00:55:39,670
OK, it's going to kick now.
734
00:55:48,990 --> 00:55:51,590
I'm clinging on for dear life.
735
00:55:51,590 --> 00:55:54,270
But this is what we're
going to have to do.
736
00:55:57,550 --> 00:56:00,230
He seems to have vanished
into the wave.
737
00:56:00,230 --> 00:56:04,310
I'm sure he's OK because he's one of
those lunatics who always survives.
738
00:56:05,630 --> 00:56:08,990
Stand, mate! Go on, stand up.
739
00:56:11,750 --> 00:56:13,990
He's up, he's up!
740
00:56:20,070 --> 00:56:21,270
He's done it!
741
00:56:28,190 --> 00:56:29,670
What a dude.
742
00:56:31,670 --> 00:56:34,110
Oh, now he's off, he's off, argh!
743
00:56:39,150 --> 00:56:42,790
I'm going to rescue him over there.
We've got to rescue both of them.
744
00:56:47,910 --> 00:56:50,110
I'm about to jump in the wave
745
00:56:50,110 --> 00:56:52,550
to try and rescue Stanley.
746
00:56:54,790 --> 00:56:56,950
Aggh!
747
00:56:59,070 --> 00:57:00,470
Aaaah!
748
00:57:02,910 --> 00:57:05,070
That was absolutely amazing.
749
00:57:06,150 --> 00:57:07,990
Stanley!
750
00:57:07,990 --> 00:57:09,950
You lunatic!
751
00:57:14,310 --> 00:57:16,590
Well done! Now it's our turn.
752
00:57:19,390 --> 00:57:22,830
Personally I haven't
got a clue what to do. Hold tight.
753
00:57:27,910 --> 00:57:31,550
What's the Brazilian for
"man overboard" and "drowning"?
754
00:57:38,710 --> 00:57:41,390
We didn't do very well.
755
00:57:41,390 --> 00:57:44,390
In fact, we were pretty
hopeless, weren't we?
756
00:57:46,030 --> 00:57:47,710
We felt its force.
757
00:57:51,550 --> 00:57:55,790
'My journey around the entire
planet was finally at an end.
758
00:57:55,790 --> 00:58:02,030
'25,000 miles, eight countries,
wars, floods, and killer diseases.
759
00:58:02,030 --> 00:58:05,270
'Quite frankly, I was exhausted.
760
00:58:05,270 --> 00:58:08,950
'But the Equator had one
final, unexpected thrill
761
00:58:08,950 --> 00:58:10,550
'left in store for us.'
762
00:58:16,270 --> 00:58:19,910
We forgot the Pororoca
happens twice a day!
763
00:58:19,910 --> 00:58:23,150
And it's happening now
in the night-time. Whoa!
764
00:58:23,150 --> 00:58:25,030
Stanley's gone overboard.
765
00:58:26,510 --> 00:58:29,350
Stanley's mattress. His
mattress has gone overboard.
766
00:58:29,350 --> 00:58:32,510
Aagh! Just stood
on some glass.
767
00:58:37,750 --> 00:58:40,630
What did he say? I don't know.
Do you speak Portuguese?
768
00:58:40,630 --> 00:58:42,870
The chef was in the shower.
769
00:58:42,870 --> 00:58:44,070
LAUGHTER
770
00:58:46,310 --> 00:58:48,950
Didn't anybody think
to tell us?!
771
00:58:48,950 --> 00:58:50,590
Next time, tell us as well!
62973
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