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Human beings venture into the
highest parts of our planet at their peril.
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Some might think that by climbing a great
mountain they have somehow conquered it,
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00:00:40,200 --> 00:00:42,630
but we can only be visitors here.
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00:00:45,680 --> 00:00:49,310
This is a frozen, alien world.
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This is the other extreme.
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00:01:03,360 --> 00:01:06,950
One of the lowest, hottest places on Earth.
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00:01:13,840 --> 00:01:17,350
It's over a hundred metres below
the level of the sea.
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But here, a mountain is in gestation.
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Pools of sulphuric acid
are indications that deep underground
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00:01:25,480 --> 00:01:27,910
there are titanic stirrings.
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00:01:33,840 --> 00:01:37,190
This is the Danakil Depression in Ethiopia,
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00:01:37,280 --> 00:01:40,230
lying within a colossal rent in the Earth's surface
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00:01:40,320 --> 00:01:43,950
where giant land masses
are pulling away from one another.
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00:01:46,560 --> 00:01:50,390
Lava rises to the surface
through this crack in the crust,
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00:01:50,480 --> 00:01:53,550
creating a chain of young volcanoes.
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00:02:04,960 --> 00:02:11,910
This one, Erta-Ale, is today the longest
continually-erupting volcano on the planet.
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00:02:12,120 --> 00:02:16,310
A lake of lava that has been molten
for over 100 years.
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00:02:27,600 --> 00:02:30,070
These same volcanic forces
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00:02:30,160 --> 00:02:33,790
also created Ethiopia's highlands.
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00:02:40,080 --> 00:02:46,710
Seventy million years ago, this land was just as
flat and as deep as the Danakil Depression.
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00:02:49,240 --> 00:02:52,390
Molten lava, rising from the Earth's core,
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forced up a huge dome of rock 500 miles wide.
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00:02:56,680 --> 00:02:58,950
The Roof of Africa.
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00:03:05,200 --> 00:03:11,670
Over millennia, rain and ice carved the rock
into a landscape of spires and canyons.
25
00:03:18,240 --> 00:03:20,710
These summits, nearly three miles up,
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are home to some very remarkable mountaineers.
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00:03:25,480 --> 00:03:27,430
Gelada baboons.
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00:03:27,520 --> 00:03:31,350
They are unique to the highlands of Ethiopia.
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00:03:45,080 --> 00:03:48,870
The cliffs where they sleep
are for expert climbers only.
30
00:03:48,960 --> 00:03:51,630
And geladas certainly have the right equipment,
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the strongest fingers of any primate
and an utterly fearless disposition.
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00:03:59,640 --> 00:04:03,710
But you need more than a head for heights
to survive up here.
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00:04:03,920 --> 00:04:08,550
A day in the geladas' life reveals
how they've risen to the challenge.
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00:04:21,960 --> 00:04:25,390
For all monkeys, morning is grooming time,
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a chance to catch up with friends.
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00:04:28,720 --> 00:04:34,150
But unlike other monkeys,
geladas chatter constantly while they do it.
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00:04:36,000 --> 00:04:39,590
It's a great way to network
while your hands are busy.
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00:04:40,200 --> 00:04:43,790
But these socials can't go on for too long.
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00:04:43,880 --> 00:04:48,470
Geladas have a busy daily schedule
and there's work to be done.
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00:04:52,520 --> 00:04:54,990
Most monkeys couldn't live up here.
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00:04:55,080 --> 00:04:57,750
There's no fruit and few insects to feed on.
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00:04:57,840 --> 00:04:59,670
But geladas are unique.
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00:04:59,760 --> 00:05:04,190
They're the only monkeys in the world
to live almost entirely on grass.
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00:05:15,320 --> 00:05:18,990
They live in the largest assemblies
formed by any monkeys.
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00:05:19,120 --> 00:05:24,710
Some groups are 800 strong and they crop
the high meadows like herds of wildebeest.
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The geladas graze alongside walia ibex,
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which are also unique to these highlands.
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These rare creatures are usually very shy,
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00:05:50,720 --> 00:05:54,150
but they drop their guard
when the geladas are around.
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00:05:58,320 --> 00:06:01,630
You might expect that grazers
would avoid each other's patch,
51
00:06:01,720 --> 00:06:05,750
but this is a special alliance
from which both partners benefit.
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00:06:06,760 --> 00:06:11,510
It's not so risky to put your head down
if others are on the lookout.
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00:06:13,560 --> 00:06:15,390
Ethiopian wolves.
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00:06:15,480 --> 00:06:18,750
They won't attempt an attack in broad daylight.
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00:06:22,480 --> 00:06:26,950
But at dusk, the plateau becomes
a more dangerous place.
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00:06:30,200 --> 00:06:32,070
With the grazing largely over,
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00:06:32,160 --> 00:06:36,990
there's a last chance to socialise
before returning to the sleeping cliffs.
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00:06:55,480 --> 00:06:59,590
An early warning system
puts everyone on the alert.
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00:07:49,840 --> 00:07:54,390
Their day ends as it began,
safe on the steep cliffs.
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00:08:01,800 --> 00:08:04,590
The Ethiopian volcanoes are dormant
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00:08:04,720 --> 00:08:07,830
but elsewhere, others still rage.
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00:08:20,960 --> 00:08:25,630
Volcanoes form the backbone
of the longest mountain chain on our planet,
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the Andes of South America.
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00:08:29,440 --> 00:08:35,870
This vast range stretches 5, 000 miles
from the equator down to the Antarctic.
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00:08:37,440 --> 00:08:40,070
It formed as the floor of the Pacific Ocean
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00:08:40,200 --> 00:08:43,790
slid beneath the South American continent,
buckling its edge.
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00:08:55,640 --> 00:08:59,750
At the southern end
stand the mountains of Patagonia.
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00:09:02,440 --> 00:09:04,030
It's high summer.
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00:09:09,160 --> 00:09:13,630
But the Andes have the most unstable
mountain weather on the planet
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and storms can erupt without warning.
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00:09:18,520 --> 00:09:22,110
Temperatures plummet and
guanacos and their newborn young
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00:09:22,200 --> 00:09:24,590
must suddenly endure a blizzard.
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Truly, all seasons in one day.
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A puma, the lion of the Andes.
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Pumas are usually solitary and secretive.
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00:10:06,720 --> 00:10:11,910
To see a group walking boldly
in the open is extremely rare.
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It's a family, a mother with four cubs.
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She has just one brief summer
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in which to teach them
their mountain survival techniques.
80
00:10:46,040 --> 00:10:50,910
Rearing four cubs to this age
is an exceptional feat,
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00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:55,910
but she does have an excellent territory,
rich in food and water.
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00:10:59,280 --> 00:11:01,870
Although the cubs are now
as large as their mother,
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they still rely on her for their food.
84
00:12:25,960 --> 00:12:30,830
It will be another year before
the cubs can hunt for themselves.
85
00:12:41,960 --> 00:12:44,870
Without their mother's skill and experience,
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they would never survive their first winter.
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00:13:07,440 --> 00:13:12,790
Battered by hurricane-force winds,
these slopes are now lifeless.
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00:13:16,080 --> 00:13:19,310
Further north, they hold other dangers.
89
00:13:49,880 --> 00:13:52,910
Moving at 250 miles an hour,
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an avalanche destroys everything in its path.
91
00:14:16,600 --> 00:14:22,590
In the American Rockies, 100, 000 avalanches
devastate the slopes every winter.
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00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:30,750
This huge mountain chain
continues the great spine
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00:14:30,840 --> 00:14:33,910
that runs from Patagonia to Alaska.
94
00:14:52,520 --> 00:14:55,230
The slopes of the Rockies, bleak though they are,
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provide a winter refuge for some animals.
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00:15:01,720 --> 00:15:07,470
A mother grizzly emerges from her den
after six months dozing underground.
97
00:15:07,760 --> 00:15:12,670
Her two cubs follow her
and take their first steps in the outside world.
98
00:15:26,680 --> 00:15:30,150
These steep slopes provide
a sanctuary for the cubs.
99
00:15:30,240 --> 00:15:33,990
A male bear would kill and eat them
given the chance
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00:15:34,080 --> 00:15:37,310
but big animals find it difficult to get about here.
101
00:15:37,400 --> 00:15:42,270
Males may be twice the size of a female
and even she can have problems.
102
00:15:56,280 --> 00:16:01,150
Her cubs, however, make light of the snow
and of life in general.
103
00:16:14,880 --> 00:16:17,310
But the mother faces a dilemma.
104
00:16:17,400 --> 00:16:22,790
It's six months since she last fed
and her milk is starting to run dry.
105
00:16:23,560 --> 00:16:26,590
She must soon leave the safety
of these nursery slopes
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and lead her cubs away from the mountain.
107
00:16:30,080 --> 00:16:34,510
If she delays, the whole family will risk starvation.
108
00:17:01,560 --> 00:17:05,310
Summer reveals the true nature of the Rockies.
109
00:17:13,800 --> 00:17:18,310
Stripped of snow,
the peaks bare their sculpted forms.
110
00:17:21,520 --> 00:17:25,390
Only now can mountaineers
reclaim the upper reaches.
111
00:17:55,240 --> 00:18:01,030
Two miles up, the crumbling precipices
seem devoid of life.
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00:18:10,560 --> 00:18:13,790
But there are animals here.
113
00:18:32,360 --> 00:18:34,110
A grizzly bear.
114
00:18:34,200 --> 00:18:38,390
It seems to be an odd creature
to find on these high rocky slopes.
115
00:18:42,080 --> 00:18:45,590
It's hard to imagine
what could have attracted it here.
116
00:19:00,720 --> 00:19:05,230
At this time of the year,
bears should be fattening up for the winter,
117
00:19:05,320 --> 00:19:09,990
yet they gather in some numbers
on these apparently barren slopes.
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00:19:22,120 --> 00:19:25,470
They're searching for a rather unusual food.
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Moths.
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00:19:28,840 --> 00:19:32,350
Millions have flown up here
to escape the heat of the lowlands
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00:19:32,440 --> 00:19:35,230
and they're now roosting among the rocks.
122
00:19:38,080 --> 00:19:41,110
Moths may seem a meagre meal for a bear,
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00:19:41,200 --> 00:19:43,230
but their bodies are rich in fat
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00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:47,790
and can make all the difference
in a bear's annual struggle for survival.
125
00:19:51,160 --> 00:19:56,150
Another battle is being waged here
but on a much longer time scale.
126
00:19:56,600 --> 00:20:00,750
These loose boulders
are the mountains' crumbling bones.
127
00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:05,590
The Rockies are no longer rising
but slowly disintegrating.
128
00:20:10,560 --> 00:20:16,390
All mountains everywhere
are being worn down by frost, snow and ice.
129
00:20:22,760 --> 00:20:26,350
The Alps were raised some 15 million years ago
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00:20:26,480 --> 00:20:30,910
as Africa, drifting northwards,
collided with the southern edge of Europe.
131
00:20:37,080 --> 00:20:41,190
These spires are the eroded remains
of an ancient seabed
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that once stretched between the two continents.
133
00:21:01,120 --> 00:21:04,950
But these are just the Alpine foothills.
134
00:21:05,040 --> 00:21:09,110
The range at its centre rises to three miles high
135
00:21:09,200 --> 00:21:12,030
and is crowned with permanent snows.
136
00:21:25,360 --> 00:21:29,950
The Matterhorn, its summit too steep
to hold a snowfield.
137
00:21:38,720 --> 00:21:42,430
Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe.
138
00:21:55,400 --> 00:21:58,750
The distinctive jagged shapes of the Alps
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00:21:58,840 --> 00:22:02,310
were carved by those great mountain sculptors,
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00:22:02,400 --> 00:22:04,430
the glaciers.
141
00:22:09,560 --> 00:22:13,670
Immense rivers of moving ice, laden with rock,
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grind their way down the mountains,
gouging out deep valleys.
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They're the most powerful
erosive force on our planet.
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00:22:37,360 --> 00:22:41,150
A moulin, a shaft in the ice opened by meltwater
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as it plunges into the depths of the glacier.
146
00:22:59,720 --> 00:23:04,070
Like the water running through it,
the ice itself is constantly moving,
147
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flowing down the valley with unstoppable force.
148
00:23:26,080 --> 00:23:28,390
Alpine glaciers may seem immense,
149
00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:31,430
but they're dwarfed by those in the great ranges
150
00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:34,670
that divide the Indian subcontinent from Tibet.
151
00:23:39,120 --> 00:23:44,270
This is the boulder-strewn snout
of the giant Baltoro Glacier
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in the Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan.
153
00:23:56,280 --> 00:23:59,350
It's the biggest mountain glacier on Earth,
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43 miles long and over three miles wide.
155
00:24:03,280 --> 00:24:08,950
This huge, ice-filled valley is so large
it's clearly visible from space.
156
00:24:31,600 --> 00:24:36,070
This is the greatest concentration
of peaks over five miles high
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to be found anywhere on Earth.
158
00:24:41,560 --> 00:24:44,630
They're the most dangerous mountains of all.
159
00:24:44,720 --> 00:24:50,030
K2 and her sister peaks
have claimed more lives than any others.
160
00:25:01,560 --> 00:25:04,590
The peaks here rise so precipitously,
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00:25:04,680 --> 00:25:07,150
the glaciers are so steep and crevassed,
162
00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:12,110
that few except the most skilled mountaineers
can penetrate these ranges.
163
00:25:16,000 --> 00:25:18,910
Markhor gather for their annual rut.
164
00:25:31,240 --> 00:25:34,350
Males must fight for the right to breed,
165
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but on these sheer cliffs,
any slip by either animal could be fatal.
166
00:25:50,240 --> 00:25:54,150
A snow leopard, the rarest of Himalayan animals.
167
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It's a female returning to her lair.
168
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These are the first intimate images
of snow leopard ever filmed in the wild.
169
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She greets her one-year-old cub.
170
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Her den is well chosen.
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It has exceptional views of the surrounding cliffs.
172
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On these treacherous slopes,
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no hunter other than the snow leopard
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would have a chance of catching such agile prey.
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A female with young makes an easier target.
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Her large paws give an excellent grip
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and that long tail helps her balance.
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Silently she positions herself above her prey.
179
00:28:37,800 --> 00:28:40,430
She returns with nothing.
180
00:29:10,640 --> 00:29:13,470
Golden eagles patrol these cliffs
181
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in search of the weak or injured.
182
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With a two-metre wingspan,
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this bird could easily take a young markhor.
184
00:29:44,840 --> 00:29:50,710
Eagles hunt by sight and the thickening
veil of snow forces them to give up.
185
00:30:06,240 --> 00:30:11,750
For the leopard, the snow provides cover
and creates an opportunity.
186
00:30:29,600 --> 00:30:33,310
The worsening weather
dampens the sound of her approach,
187
00:30:33,400 --> 00:30:37,150
allowing her to get within striking distance.
188
00:30:54,200 --> 00:30:58,990
It was an act of desperation
to try and catch such a large animal.
189
00:31:08,080 --> 00:31:13,390
Wolves have made a kill,
giving other hunters a chance to scavenge.
190
00:31:29,360 --> 00:31:32,870
The worst of the blizzard
brings success for the snow leopard.
191
00:31:32,960 --> 00:31:35,710
But having descended so far to make the kill,
192
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she has a gruelling climb to get back to her lair.
193
00:31:53,400 --> 00:31:55,350
The cub must be patient.
194
00:31:55,440 --> 00:31:58,190
It will be a year before
it has the strength and skill
195
00:31:58,280 --> 00:32:01,630
to kill for itself on these difficult slopes.
196
00:32:26,280 --> 00:32:29,790
The snow leopard is an almost mythical creature,
197
00:32:29,880 --> 00:32:31,790
an icon of the wilderness,
198
00:32:31,880 --> 00:32:34,750
an animal few humans have ever glimpsed
199
00:32:34,840 --> 00:32:37,870
for its world is one we seldom visit.
200
00:32:45,920 --> 00:32:49,230
The Karakoram lie at the western end of a range
201
00:32:49,320 --> 00:32:52,350
that stretches across a tenth of our planet,
202
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the Himalayas.
203
00:33:04,960 --> 00:33:07,950
These, the highest mountains in the world,
204
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like other great ranges,
were created by the collision of continents.
205
00:33:15,240 --> 00:33:19,470
Some 50 million years ago,
India collided with Tibet,
206
00:33:19,560 --> 00:33:23,710
thrusting up these immense peaks
which are still rising.
207
00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:33,990
This vast barrier of rock and ice is so colossal
208
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it shapes the world's climate.
209
00:33:38,200 --> 00:33:43,670
Warm winds from India, full of moisture,
are forced upwards by the Himalayas.
210
00:33:43,800 --> 00:33:48,310
As the air rises, so it cools, causing clouds to form
211
00:33:48,400 --> 00:33:50,710
and the monsoon is born.
212
00:34:28,000 --> 00:34:32,270
At high altitudes, the monsoon rains fall as snow.
213
00:34:33,360 --> 00:34:36,670
Here, at the far eastern end of the range in China,
214
00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:41,110
one inhabitant endures
the bitter winters out in the open.
215
00:34:48,560 --> 00:34:52,590
Most other bears
would be sleeping underground by now
216
00:34:52,680 --> 00:34:56,830
but the giant panda
can't fatten up enough to hibernate.
217
00:35:00,200 --> 00:35:04,150
Its food, bamboo, on which it totally relies,
218
00:35:04,240 --> 00:35:06,950
has so little nutritional value
219
00:35:07,040 --> 00:35:10,630
that it can't build up a store of fat
like other bears.
220
00:35:12,280 --> 00:35:16,670
Most of the creatures here
move up or down the slopes with the seasons,
221
00:35:16,760 --> 00:35:19,950
but the panda is held captive by its diet,
222
00:35:20,040 --> 00:35:24,150
for the kind of bamboo it eats
only grows at this altitude.
223
00:35:31,640 --> 00:35:36,230
But these forests hold fewer challenges
for the more mobile.
224
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The golden snub-nosed monkey,
225
00:35:41,800 --> 00:35:45,030
like the giant panda, lives only in China.
226
00:35:48,360 --> 00:35:53,150
Their thick fur allows them to survive
at greater altitudes than any other monkey.
227
00:35:53,280 --> 00:35:57,790
And when the cold bites,
they have these upper slopes to themselves.
228
00:36:05,520 --> 00:36:07,470
Even if you have a warm coat,
229
00:36:07,560 --> 00:36:12,110
it apparently helps to surround yourself
with as many layers as possible.
230
00:36:14,320 --> 00:36:16,630
But at least these monkeys have a choice.
231
00:36:16,720 --> 00:36:20,150
If they tired of tree bark and other survival food,
232
00:36:20,280 --> 00:36:23,350
they can always descend
to lower, warmer altitudes
233
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and not return until spring.
234
00:36:29,960 --> 00:36:34,270
As the snows retreat, trees come into bloom.
235
00:36:40,360 --> 00:36:41,870
Cherry blossom.
236
00:36:44,800 --> 00:36:47,870
Rhododendrons. Here in their natural home,
237
00:36:47,960 --> 00:36:53,150
they form great forests and fill the landscape
with the colours of a new season.
238
00:37:12,280 --> 00:37:17,670
These forests are host
to a rich variety of springtime migrants.
239
00:37:32,200 --> 00:37:35,430
Beneath the blooms, another display.
240
00:37:38,600 --> 00:37:41,910
It's the mating season for oriental pheasants,
241
00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:43,630
Himalayan monal,
242
00:37:47,400 --> 00:37:50,750
tragopan and blood pheasant.
243
00:37:58,880 --> 00:38:03,870
Musk deer make the most
of a short flush of spring foods.
244
00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:08,350
This male smells a potential mate.
245
00:38:23,920 --> 00:38:27,470
The red panda, rarely glimpsed in the wild.
246
00:38:27,560 --> 00:38:30,070
It was once considered a kind of raccoon
247
00:38:30,160 --> 00:38:33,350
but is now believed to be a small mountain bear.
248
00:38:44,200 --> 00:38:47,870
By midsummer, its larger more famous relative
249
00:38:47,960 --> 00:38:50,430
has retreated into a cave.
250
00:39:04,040 --> 00:39:08,670
A giant panda nurses a tiny week-old baby.
251
00:39:15,760 --> 00:39:19,190
Her tender cleaning wards off infection.
252
00:39:30,920 --> 00:39:34,030
She won't leave this cave for three weeks.
253
00:39:36,480 --> 00:39:39,830
Not while her cub is so utterly helpless.
254
00:39:49,120 --> 00:39:55,510
Progress is slow, for milk produced
on a diet of bamboo is wretchedly poor.
255
00:40:02,600 --> 00:40:06,670
Four weeks old and the cub is still blind.
256
00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:19,790
Its eyes do not fully open
until three months after birth.
257
00:40:20,600 --> 00:40:24,910
But the chances of the cub
reaching adulthood are slim.
258
00:40:29,440 --> 00:40:34,870
The struggle of a giant panda mother
to raise her cub is a touching symbol
259
00:40:34,960 --> 00:40:38,950
of the precariousness of life in the mountains.
260
00:40:48,800 --> 00:40:54,230
On the highest summits of our planet,
nothing can live permanently.
261
00:40:58,440 --> 00:41:01,510
The highest peak of all, Mount Everest.
262
00:41:01,600 --> 00:41:05,950
Five and a half miles
above sea level and still rising.
263
00:41:06,040 --> 00:41:07,870
The roof of our world.
264
00:41:10,000 --> 00:41:15,550
Of those humans who've tried to climb it,
1 in 10 have lost their lives.
265
00:41:16,000 --> 00:41:21,150
Those that succeed can stand
for only a few moments on its summit.
266
00:41:21,760 --> 00:41:26,910
The Nepalese call it,
"A mountain so high no bird can fly above it."
267
00:41:34,080 --> 00:41:38,510
But each year, over 50, 000 demoiselle cranes
268
00:41:38,600 --> 00:41:42,590
set out on one of the most
challenging migrations on Earth.
269
00:41:45,200 --> 00:41:50,990
To reach their over-wintering grounds in India,
they must cross the Himalayas.
270
00:41:57,960 --> 00:42:02,270
By late morning,
ferocious winds are roaring past the peaks.
271
00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:06,870
The cranes must gain height
to avoid the building storm.
272
00:42:34,960 --> 00:42:37,670
They've hit serious turbulence.
273
00:42:42,320 --> 00:42:46,030
They must turn back or risk death.
274
00:43:20,080 --> 00:43:23,510
A new day and a new opportunity.
275
00:43:25,120 --> 00:43:29,110
The flock stay in close contact
by calling to one another.
276
00:43:38,280 --> 00:43:40,510
Weak from lack of food and water,
277
00:43:40,640 --> 00:43:45,350
they use thermals, rising columns of warm air,
to gain height.
278
00:44:02,400 --> 00:44:07,310
For many, this is their first journey
across the Himalayas.
279
00:44:07,400 --> 00:44:10,390
For some, it will be their last.
280
00:44:19,160 --> 00:44:22,030
The golden eagles have been expecting them.
281
00:44:32,680 --> 00:44:37,630
The eagles work in pairs
to separate a young crane from the flock.
282
00:45:22,560 --> 00:45:26,910
It escapes the clutches of one
and is caught by another.
283
00:45:30,200 --> 00:45:33,670
But even a young crane is a heavy prize
284
00:45:33,760 --> 00:45:37,310
and the eagle has to struggle to control it.
285
00:45:55,880 --> 00:45:57,910
The mother can wait no longer.
286
00:45:58,000 --> 00:46:01,630
This is a desperate race
against worsening weather.
287
00:46:08,360 --> 00:46:10,750
The rest of the flock battle on.
288
00:46:15,200 --> 00:46:20,390
In the final ascent, every wing-beat
becomes an exhausting struggle.
289
00:46:38,600 --> 00:46:43,710
At last, they are over the highest barrier
that lies in their way.
290
00:46:51,360 --> 00:46:55,310
But like all who visit the world
of the high mountains,
291
00:46:55,400 --> 00:46:57,190
they dare not linger.
25830
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