Original subtitles

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all right

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I am so

confused it wasn't supposed to be like

this of all the places of all the

countries all the years of traveling

it's here in Iran that I'm greeted most

warmly by total strangers hello the

other stuff it's there the Iran we've

read about heard about seen in the

news but this this I wasn't prepared for

I took a walk through this beautiful

world felt theol Rain on My

[Applause]

Shoulder found something good in this

beautiful

world I felt the

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roller la la la la sh la la la la la sh

la la la

[Applause]

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thank

you so good to be here finally it's

taking some time

oh like a lot of time like 40 years have

been trying

finally Tran city of nearly 8 million

people capital of Iran this neighborhood

feels kind of like their neighborhoods

of Rome this feels a lot like after all

this time I finally had my chance to see

a country I'd heard so much about the

weather's nice too I don't know what I

was expecting but it's nice a big Blank

Spot on nearly every fre Travelers

resume mer delicious thank

[Laughter]

you once upon a time there was an

ancient Kingdom where they found a lot

of magical black stuff under the

ground but to other kingdoms had the key

to the magical black stuff and when they

wouldn't share the people of the ancient

Kingdom got

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mad they voted and their leader said the

magical black stuff is ours to

keep but the other kingdoms were afraid

of losing all the magical black stuff so

they gave money to some bad men to get

rid of the

leader they put back in power another

leader and they gave him money

too to some he was a good King but to

others he could be very

cruel after many years the people of the

Kingdom got mad this time even

matter so they scared the king away

[Laughter]

forever and then things started to get

really messed up

okay that's a simplistic and incomplete

way to sum up the last 100 odd years of

Iranian history but the point is there

were a lot of issues and differing

agendas leading up to the explosion of

Rage known as the Iranian hostage

crisis look we know what Iran the

government

does George W bush famously called them

part of the axis of Evil their proxies

in Iraq have done American soldiers real

harm there is no doubt of

this but I hope I could be forgiven for

finding these undeniable truths hard to

reconcile with how we're treated on the

streets everywhere we

go so forget about the politics if you

can for a moment how about the food the

food here is

amazing cello Kebab as close as you get

to a national dish and the king of

Kebabs ground lamb with spices a good

place to

start so what do you guys do for a

little I export knots I'm a curator of

Contemporary Art which is an exploding

scene here Iranian country has three

different culture Western culture

Iranian and Islamic culture it's really

progressing it has changed a lot during

last

decades so this is the actual menu right

I would recommend you to try this one

and this one and this one okay why

[Laughter]

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not cello Kebab wouldn't be complete

without Persian

rice fluffy long grained and perfectly

seasoned with saffron the rice in this

country is like nothing you've ever have

so Tony first you should take the butter

and put it on

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good very good

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yeah it was a hopeful time when I

arrived in Iran

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a window had opened there had been a

slight loosening of restrictions since

the election of President Hassan rouani

and there was optimism for a deal that

could lead to an easing of crippling

economic sanctions imposed because of

Iran's continued nuclear program trade

restrictions that have been very very

difficult for

everyone but there's a push happening

between opposing factions and the

government on one hand Iranians are the

descendants of ancient Persia an EMP

Empire of poetry flowers the highly

influential culture that goes back

thousands of

years but the ruling clerical and

Military class are at best ambivalent at

worst actively hostile to much of that

tradition severe religious-based

restrictions of speech dress Behavior

were ushered in by the rise of the

Ayatollah during the 1979 Islamic

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revolution

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fore

spe

foreign

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speech the

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so how does one have fun in Iran these

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days this is a line that is constantly

being tested alcohol is of course

forbidden you can get away with

listening to rock or rap sort of

sometimes but you cannot yourself rock

or be seen to visibly

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[Applause]

Rock not everyone in Iran is delighted

with what their country has become since

the

revolution but even in uating discontent

can have consequences protesters

dissidents journalists have been simply

disappeared into the mall of the

National Security System military what

it's some military place don't shoot

please oh

don't let us cross there

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we are in this northernmost spit land in

Teran up here in darband uh the road

stops and it gets really steep place for

Iranians to escape the heat escape the

pollution and have a kebab and a shisha

and just kind of unwind

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as print journalists our job's difficult

but it's also kind of easy cuz there's

so much to write about you know it's it

the difficult part is convincing people

on the other side of the world that that

what we're telling you we're seeing in

front of our eyes is actually there when

you walk down the street you see a

different side of things people are

proud the culture is vibrant uh people

have a lot to say Jason Rion is the

Washington Post correspondent for Iran

yagan his wife and a fellow journalist

works for the UAE based newspaper the

national Jason is Iranian American yagan

is a full Iranian citizen this is their

City Teran the official attitude towards

fun in general seems to be an Ever

shifting how is fun even a good idea

um a lot of push and pull a lot of give

and take when I first started come in

here you wouldn't hear pop music in a in

a restaurant orwhere now it's everywhere

we have police they arrest girls or

women for having bad hijob or not being

covered enough but it's not that we

leave with the police in our head you

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know you know one of the first things

that people will say when you say well

I'm going to run oh yeah but don't they

make women do this this this this this M

actually not so much not as much as our

friends friends compare and contrast

women aren't allowed to drive in Saudi

Arabia that's right or vote uh or vote

you can drive you can vote yeah business

of course my sister is an accountant she

has her own company girls are allowed to

do almost everything uh except we want

to go and watch football which is like

can go watch football we cannot

women's issues are often at the spear

point of change or possible change here

on one hand prevailing conservative

attitudes demand certain things on the

other hand Iranian women are famously

assertive opinionated it's a striking

difference from almost everywhere else

in the region so why are we so friendly

with the Saudis again it's a great

question it's a really good

question I'm happy bab you ask that

question

do you like it you happy here look I I'm

at a point now after 5 years where uh I

miss certain things about home I miss my

buddies I miss uh burritos I miss having

certain beverages with my buddies and

burritos in certain types of

establishments um but I love it I love

it and I hate it you know but it's home

it's become home are you optimistic

about the future yeah especially if this

nuclear deal finally happens uh

yeah very much

actually despite the hopeful nature of

our conversation 6 weeks after the

filming of this episode Jason and yagan

were mysteriously arrested and detained

by the

police sadly in Iran this sort of thing

is not an isolated incident

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what is okay to film in a and what is

not what's okay for the friendly to us

at least Ministry of guidance might not

be okay at all for the BGE essentially

roving young religious

militias despite all permits and

paperwork being in order we're detained

for several hours this sort of

harassment is a daily part of life for

Iranians please turn it off right now

byebye byebye

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byebye well I'm so glad to be here thank

you hello

hi me

you so people have been ridiculously

nice to us aren't you guys supposed to

be the axis of Evil you you're

absolutely right we are demonized by the

media outside you show black and white

people are demonstrating and killing and

bombing and this and that and you your

Syria in this and that but you never

talk about the real people who are

actually living peacefully inside the

country you know could be eventually in

the future of the world we and Americans

have a very special place in this Middle

East you cannot play a game without

considering Iran as a friend one of

Faro's many passions is ancient Persia

culinary history in particular and he's

writing a book on the subject how do you

pronounce the specialty here dizy what

they say is called DIY which actually is

the name of the P that's right it's a

like an earth andwar

uh this is one of the LA dishes of

humankind it goes back to Mesopotamia

6,000 years ago potato chick Fe water

lamb cooked together add a little fat

mash it up with potatoes and

chickpeas that's good what do Iranians

want to eat today it's a homecooking

culture I mean yes we didn't have the

culture of eating out this is a culture

of secret Foods in the house things

which are unheard of is not in the book

really a lot of

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Secrets have you ever tried traditional

Rani food uh it's difficult because

everybody says the great food of Iran is

cooked in people's homes

yes this is a land of secret recipes

passed down within families like

treasured possessions Mr Tony please

beautiful spread of food she's my wife

and I'm a really lucky man she's very

good beon like so many other Iranians

I've met has been kind enough to invite

me to his home this is milk soup milk

and chicken soup it's really

good my mom said that Iranian people

loves guests and they will never get

tired if the guests likes their

food is call it fenan a stew of fried

chicken onion ground wallnuts

pomegranate and tomato paste and there's

fruit some kind of fruit yes there

there's the dry apricot inside this as

well delicious so good needed around 24

hours time M these are very

sophisticated very timeconsuming dishes

to prepare always from scratch and

always in excess of what you could

possibly need you tend to kill your

guests with kindness around here Tila

pil that fish is from the south of Iran

from the Persian Gulf pers Persian this

one is from North

call maybe if I could try some uh yes

thank you of course and that one is we

made it with beans meat so good M

fantastic food men and wife both of them

working you know so it's hard to do

something like

this that's what I've been waiting

that's the crispy rice at the bottom

right there the what's it called Tek is

that T tadik exactly

we's

see my mom and my mother in those they

thinks if they have a guest they have to

at least two or three kind of foods and

uh if they make just one they thinks

that it is not very polite for a guest

but uh nowadays for example for my

generation when I have a guest I would

just made one food one appetizer and one

dessert you know why and you know why

because it's much

easier

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yes times have changed pre-1979 Tran was

party central but with Iran's 1979

Revolution 2,500 years of monarchy was

over the supreme leader Ayatollah ki's

word became more or less

law today hundreds of thousands of

Iranians are bust to his enormous Shrine

from all over the

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country a national holiday Ki died on

this day in

1989 his funeral attended by over 10

million Iranians

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my down with

ignorance

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wisdom all of Iranian need American and

all of the world for

friendship

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thanks you don't want to miss the bus

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south of teron the landscape opens

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up nearly 300 mil of Iranian Highway

stretching to the city of esphahan

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esphahan is Iran's third largest city

half the world as the saying went back

when this was the capital of Persia and

Beyond the city is renowned for its

architecture the grandest bridges and

mosques dating back to the Middle

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Ages USA

from America where are you from from

esvan or from Teran Teran well nice to

meet you nice to meet you

too yes hello welcome to thank you

welcome to thank you so much it's very

beautiful

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I'm guessing from the decor this is a

former wrestler's Hangout

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tucked deep in the Labyrinth of esphahan

Bazaar the smell of something very very

good this shop has been here doing the

same thing for a 100 years and based on

the line it must be doing it right I've

had Biryani in India I've had it in

usbekistan but there's no question who

invented Biryani no no

way Biryani maybe you know the word

though this doesn't look like any

Biryani I've ever had minced lamb

shoulder onion turmeric cinnamon mint

and of course saffron more valuable than

gold by

weight this is

delicious really good isan today the one

of the most visited areas by tourists

yeah everybody you know if you come to

Iran and you don't visit esah you are

wasting your

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time the Royal mosque sits a stri imom

square the second largest Square in the

World Behind tanen in China

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at dusk families come to the square to

cool off picnic have yes it looks like

even a little bit of fun

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know

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oh

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all

morning prayer in esah

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across town the kaju

bridge where men gather spontaneously to

sing

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is this okay this impromptu giving

oneself over to the creative urge to

stand and sing out to no one in

particular maybe but not okay apparently

to film we got to go we got to go

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the road back to

Teran along the way reminders of just

how far back this culture

goes the ruins of ancient Caravans arise

highway rest stops from when armies

Merchants Traders traveling by camel by

foot all passed along these same

routes this right here a stop on what

was once the Silk Road extending all the

way to China

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[Applause]

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in this part of the world whatever your

background bread is a vital essential

fundamental and deeply respected Staple

in mornings at Teran countless bakeries

like this one turn out as much as they

can

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oh man smells good in here you have to

stay in line no problem standing online

is a daily part of life for many

Iranians they B these things on small

stones gives it that texture this is why

it's called sangak sang is a stone

Pebble in the years since the 1979

Revolution Iranians have weathered Wars

food shortages and crippling trades

sanctions that have caused the economy

to

sputter so I'm going to make you a small

table all right Bobak is kind enough to

take me for breakfast this is called

halim awesome and it's made from uh

bulgar wheat yes and you know what is

inside except wheat it is meat it is

Turkey this is a mixture of sugar and

cinnamon that's good you like yeah

and this spread is

amazing so you were how old when the war

with Iraq started I was exactly seven

Iraq attacked and it was a surprise

attack Iran's 8-y yearlong war with

Saddam Hussein's Iraq is deeply deeply

felt hundreds of thousands of Iranians

many of them children died fighting in

that conflict were you afraid we were

afraid my brother was in the France for

3 years out of eight and it was not only

my brother many young people like him

eight years of war you know with the

country that is supported by many big

powers and it is worth mentioning

whatever you think wherever we are now

that Saddam supported by the US

government and with our full knowledge

used sarin and mustard gas on hundreds

of thousands of

Iranians less known in America known and

felt by everyone in

Iran and it was a mistake of United

States at that time they made a bad

memory for Iranians but still people are

indeed really really nice here I mean

because people here don't hate Americans

you helped

aoup and then a revolution everything

and then we captured your Embassy and

okay it's finished we didn't kill each

other we didn't have a real fight so can

be some Mis political misunderstanding

which is resolved which will be resolved

maybe I

hope inshah

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inshah so far Iran does not look does

not feel the way I'd expected

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neither East nor

West but always somewhere in the

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middle well it looks

spectacular you can't have this in a

restaurant it's time consuming it's very

expensive so you have to Persian Cuisine

has to be experienced in somebody's home

thank you so this one here is called

bosor it's slow cooked lamb in yogurt is

in yogurt and saffron and egg

Ys nazila prominent Art Gallery owner

insisted I come over for lunch with

their friends and family and here we

have the sour cherry rice little

meatballs and chicken sour cherries more

than any other Nation I think we love

sour yeah Raheem The Cook has been with

the family for Generations

rice mixed with yogurt and saffron baked

into a crispy Dome don't think of rice

as a side dish around here it can be the

main event okay very very good you put

far more on the table than anyone could

conceivably eat is that yeah if you

don't like your guest you don't put

anything and here we have K which is a

large very big meat ball KU tabrizi

ground beef onion and cooked rice

walnuts dried apricots boiled egg and

barbaries anyways we are a very

interesting Nation indeed and very very

confusing extremely confusing for me the

contradictions are just enormous

enormous Iranians we take you to our

house we take you to our hearts and all

of that and in that way we are extreme

you know we are extremists in so many

ways so good okay you see this tortured

relationship between America and Iran

for many years how do you think most

Americans will react when they see this

start

coming is very important for us as

Iranians to get true to make sure that

we are seen as humans here not the

so-called enemy or the darkness of Iran

you know like you go to anybody's house

in Iran and I'm sure they they will

welcome you the excess of evil we not

the excess

oh just normal evil like everybody

else 10 years ago Iran was people they

had hope for future young people they

wanted to travel they had little bit

money but because of sanction this

sanction really squeeze everybody eight

years no foreign investment here and so

it was very difficult time I mean the

population is really young 70% are under

35 and the thing is they deserve much

more than what they have now they want

to have good job they want to make you

know have families but is not possible

now for them I hope we can have more

faith in the ordinary Americans because

every little uh change in the policy of

the W Western Country it really really

affects our lives here

[Music]

the Mad Tower Iran's tallest building

and a symbol of national pride it rises

a th000 ft in the air and looks out at

all Teran and

[Music]

Beyond we were out of the observation

deck taking it all in trying to make

some sense of it all our time in Iran

was coming to an end and it was

impossible to say was a window

opening or was it only a moment in time

before it shut

[Music]

again you learn pretty quickly that in

Iran there is plenty of gray

area an undefined territory

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where is the line it seems to change

with barely a moment's notice okay here

it

comes now

dangerous this is the first time that we

have experienced such

thing not sh

you know stand away from your

glass look please find this way please

follow me this

[Music]

way please just stop filming

last day in Iran nightfalls and the kids

like kids anywhere get in their rides

and head for somewhere they could hang

out amazing American American Classics

here we're where where do they where do

you get them uh old men's old P yeah old

guys right and then fix them up

yeah

[Music]

Mustang Camaro Camaro yeah Firebird P

that's a perfect La car right

there is this a car club or is this just

people just come we hang out this way

with our friends awesome all right well

I called out for a little

delivery one last thing everyone's been

telling me I have to

try Iranian take out

pizza it comes with ketchup what do you

think about Iranian Pizza not bad not

bad we don't put ketchup on Pizza though

I love

ketchup beer

spent my youth pretty much doing this

hanging in a park of

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lot let's assume the worst let's assume

that you cannot see any way to reconcile

what you think of Iran with your own

personal beliefs that that you just

generally don't approve yeah I think

those are exactly the sort of places you

should go totally see who we're talking

about and where we're talking about here

and I think it's almost unamerican not

to go to those places you

[Music]

know I don't know that I can put it in

any kind of perspective I feel you know

deeply conflicting deeply confusing

exhilarating heartbreaking beautiful

place yeah exactly

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[Applause]

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American cars are crazy American cars

are crazy and they're fun

yeah I can tell you is the Iran I've

seen on TV and read about it papers it's

a much bigger picture let's put it this

way it's

[Laughter]

[Music]

complicated after 10 weeks yagan was

finally

released but as I read these lines Jason

remains a

prisoner his future the reasons for

their arrest are still

unknown 1 2

3 all right thank you guys thank you you

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n

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[Applause]

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I took a walk through this beautiful

world felt

Rain on My

[Applause]

Shoulder found something good in this

beautiful

world I the rain gettinger

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[Applause]

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[Applause]

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[Applause]

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I drink

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uple me nearly a year on the road all

those miles all those airports infinite

variety of awful

Plumbing it was time for something low

impact so off to

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Jamaica this is the first time I've ever

driven a car on a on the wrong side of

the road I mean

knowingly how hard could it be oh I get

the pass on the right too

woohooo thankfully we have a roll bar

but this time a different angle you

probably know of Jamaica as a vacation

Paradise but it's worth mentioning this

is a divided country and has been in one

form or another since the days of

slavery there's a small minority who

control most everything and then there's

the poorer generally darker skinned

majority less connected left

out Jamaican Cuisine a lot of it still

reflects this conflicted history bread

fruit saltfish this was slave food cheap

longlasting filling introduced basically

as

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feed

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fing day one first order of business get

you know some jerk

[Music]

chicken can you blame me no I think

not oh that's

good yeah yeah I know this routine

believe me

it's brown it's murky and it burns mommy

it

burns and there are still all these

years later two

jamaicas there's the Jamaica that most

Jamaicans live in cook in struggle to

survive in the Real Jamaica then there's

the Jamaica which you're probably more

familiar with

[Music]

but tourists have been coming to Jamaica

for a long time when this part of the

island particularly Port Antonio

threatened to become an international

Jet Set

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destination local Legend has it that

Errol Flynn was Shipwrecked here on his

yacht in 1947 and promptly fell in love

with the place

before Flynn it had been an Empire of

bananas a huge industry that later

became United

Fruit bananas went out tourists came in

the banana business eventually went

elsewhere and when tourism shifted to

the other side of the island with the

construction of an airport at Montego

Bay well that was pretty much it the

Northeast Coast was largely forgotten

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it has the feel still of a forgotten

Paradise there are those who believe

that the area can come back that it must

come back that the future is in hotels

and resorts and restaurants for wealthy

visitors as it once was

[Music]

take this place for instance the Trident

Hotel expensive luxurious best of all

I'm the only

guest oh did I mention it comes with a

castle what kind of person would own a

building like that who who

why then this man arrived and kind of

answered that question all of this

belongs to Michael Lee chin local boy

turned billionaire one of the richest

men in the world and my host he's

invited me for dinner

[Music]

before we do some crabbing right yeah

that sounds like a plan but first we

need crabs for that dinner I'm told

caught in the traditional style a drink

is in order cheers man respect CB

[Music]

in a lot of crab holes this time of year

Port Antonio is literally crawling with

crabs I'm told it'll be really easy just

scoop up the little B bastards and then

it's back to the pool you you haven't

seen any right now I'm looking a lunge

at

him it's hot I think it's that R you

know really thick in the bush you know

it's sweltering freaking hot and dark

you find something yeah yeah yeah yeah

awesome man but it doesn't seem to

bother the hotel chefs who willingly

risk dismemberment for the sake of

procuring a tasty dinner we want him

alive we have questions to ask him where

are your friends oh yeah you know welome

one crab down 49 left to go with the

help of Tony we're going to get some

more tonight so I'm frankly anxious to

get this over with so when the

opportunity arises to stick my paw down

into a hole where there's probably a

pissed-off crab looking a clamp down on

my pinky with his pincers I could care

less

nothing no nobody

home oh hunts God damn it think I

stepping hunt are those fire ants

wonderful please attack my nut sack

anything to get this over with quicker

he's running hey

man okay I don't want to kill the little

guy that's it right there right on Left

Right on left who yeah

expert nice one

next what seems like several sweltering

hours later its mission accomplished and

it's back to home base and time to get

ready for dinner at the Castle followed

by a party I'm

told do you recognize these t i put this

guy in a

bag I'm joined by billionaire Michael

his partner John Baker music producer

and hotelier John's wife nordia Errol

Flynn's grandson Luke Flynn and his wife

[Music]

Sky you grew up in this in this yes in

this area what was Port Antonio like in

in the 50s Port Antonio was uh it was

vibrant banana lots of wealthy

tourists so Port Antonio was a happening

place

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one by

one by

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two you're a man with a diverse

Financial interests mhm Banks uh

Communications as a veteran of 30 years

in the hospitality business why why

would you do such a hard and probably

unprofitable thing

I mean usually unprofitable you're being

very kind it's a really business

generally well I thought you're smart I

that you're brilliant but your behavior

shows that you're dumb no no I know the

answer you're you're are you a

romantic great things can will happen

when you uh you you romanticize you

dream you Aspire you see a vision and

you set out to achieve that

Vision Trident is here to catalyze

people to come to P Anon and discover

wow wo and wo

again where does it cross over where all

of the things you love about about this

area where all of the Villas are

spanking new and people are building 400

room

hotels is there a threshold where things

start to not

be the things that you loved about the

place in the first place and how do you

guard against that you know Tony p and

tun is a long way from getting

there it has not progressed out of the

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50s it's had very little tourism in

recent years why isn't there lots of

everybody loves reggae everybody loves

Bob Marley everybody loves spicy

delicious Jamaican food

what's the problem because you don't get

off a plane and go 100 yards to an

all-inclusive there's no realle lift

here you have to get here it's that

simple there's no it's as simple as a

lift and it's as simple as we're

shrouded by the Blue Mountains and it's

an effort to get here so it filters out

certain forms of Travelers so we have to

make it a little bit easier to get we

get beat out by a lot of lame Islands

face no totally and even in Jamaica

Lamer areas for me I say if someone says

oh I've been to Jamaica and they haven't

been to Port Antonio I'm like really you

didn't get a real feeling of

Jamaica you can't go many places in the

world and find natural beauty people who

are genuinely warm where there's a

strong culture of food strong culture in

terms of music and at the same time be

able to be a part of a community and you

can be a visitor without being a part of

the tourist

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industry e

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hello

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during World War II British Naval

intelligence officer Ian Fleming came to

Jamaica on a secret mission to

investigate possible ubot

activity like the legendary character he

would later create he was a

spy the mission came to nothing but

Fleming fell immediately in love with

the island and vowed to return which he

did buying this place Golan ey

at the time considered very Spartan a

cottage a single room really a few

smaller rooms in the back but an

incredible

view he spent much of the rest of his

life here writing a book each year at

this desk you know those

books today Fleming's Cottage has been

enlarged and made more luxurious as a

hotel but the original House still

stands along with some improvements

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Grotto a what did every Young American

Boy want every red-blooded American male

born in 1956 I can tell you they wanted

a

grotto it sounded pretty good to me at

12 as I got older I started to think

about these it's like exactly who was in

that Grotto before me becomes more of a

concern as you grow up it's like did did

Ron Jeremy just leave The Grotto am I

the first one in The Grotto has someone

changed the water in The Grotto these

were these were concerns later in life

but this was it I wanted a

grotto I still kind of

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do thank you so

much this is totally better than the

Playboy

Mansion you know that the Playboy

Mansion totally smells like old man ear

stink

the current owner of golden eye is

another unusual man Chris Blackwell

legendary music producer turn

hotelier over the years Blackwell has

expanded the property into a resort its

Gates reaching right up to the fishing

beach at neighboring

oracabessa Blackwell has big plans for

the area

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the next day I leave golden eyes

luxurious Embrace headed into town for

something well I just had to have a

longtime favorite what do we have here

oh Oxdale yeah I'm on Cur goat oh sweet

I don't care whether it's the Bronx or

Kingston or wherever I can get it oxtail

curry goat callaloo and of course rice

and pigeon peas got to have

that man I love the food in this country

man it's the best it's such a

mix African a lot of people Totally Miss

out I mean curry goat that's that comes

from the East Indies what they used to

call that's true Chef Chris's cook shop

has become something of a local

institution a thriving business in a

town that's seen better

days how long you been open here I've

been open this little for 13 years 133

years yeah man the town changed in that

time or stayed the same well right right

now you know we're um our econom is not

doing so good right now so why not it's

one of the most beautiful areas in the

world yeah for real we have a beautiful

water beautiful weather beautiful

fantastic food yeah what more I I ask

for what do you think went wrong I mean

why why would people stop coming I guess

the guys in the top seat messed it up so

they're trying to correct it now you

know

it's expanding fast yeah it is the town

they're going to be building all the way

yeah all the way down there all the way

around yeah so so that's thousands of

tourists thousands to be honest I'm

waiting for that moment I don't want to

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think we really need that you know

because this town was D fast and real

fast so Chris black came back and now

he's booming the town so it's a good

step in the right direction oh thank

you oh yeah see now now I'm

happy that is just beautiful nice place

to grow up it is but what what's it like

being a kid my child is day I used to

spend it at the beach that's pretty good

who gets to do that well I guess only me

and my friends but I mean do you ever do

you ever take it for granted like you

ever that you ever get yeah we do we do

we do we do see the thing about it when

we really need it that's the time we

can't have it you know cuz a lot of our

waterfronts have been gone you know we

have very little right now you know it's

okay we have James Pond Beach like 10

minutes walk from here also so at least

we're one of the luckier ones

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it's inevitable of course that next door

to Golden Eye there would be a James

Bond Beach all of the Bond movies were

conceptualized and written

here when Blackwell heard I wanted to

visit the local fisherman he hooked me

up with his good friend Carl to

accompany

me I'm here to hit Dr h a local rumar

where one can indulge in a typical

hardworking f F's breakfast

rum so we drinking rum here we drinking

beer we drinking rum and beer oh I know

it's hardcore but you're recommending

just like some beer and some rum

together no steel btom now steel all

right steel Bottom now right going to do

one partt of rum one yep right and four

pots of

beer no water no I try that it's a steel

bottom meaning it's it's n

it's good work and you could take it to

your dimension so who fishes here you

fish yeah what are you fishing for hold

on let me get it's multiple fishing

right which will be your Snapper your

parrot your grunt exactly right so is

business better these days or Worse

these days worse over fishing is a

problem oracabessa is a fishing Village

for now at

least all throughout the Caribbean fish

stocks are in Decline and making a

living from the sea is getting harder

and harder so right here is actually

become a fishing Sanctuary we're we're

trying to now revive the fish stock

around the island so if this becomes a

protected Sanctuary what are you going

to do for yeah so you have to

go further out to sea for deep sea

fishing that means more gas more gas

more economic condition less fish so

it's a strain right

is there a future for the traditional

fishing industry in in Jamaica or do you

think like every place else in the

Caribbean is it going to end up an

entirely tourist economy this going to

belong to the tourist this is this place

here because I can tell you something I

live just up the road loveely spot which

is on the coast just like Chris

Blackwell and they going to tell me that

I cannot fish in

you what is happing here's what I'm kind

of getting at rich

people want to live what they see as a

simple life in their minds they want to

live the life of a Jamaican fisherman so

they want to live the life of somebody

who doesn't have a lot of money but the

people who actually do that now are

giving up their living and essentially

entering the tourist sector there's a

certain amount of weird irony at work

here who gets to live in Paradise nobody

because guess what point and I like to

clear up what you have right there's a

lot of things going on here

right read a piece of paper a couple

months ago that's going on down here

right the native here don't have no

beach in a few

mon this architect's model sits in one

of golden ey's offices showing what

oracabessa Coastline will look like if

all goes according to

plan they going to have a

ID to come inside here we don't care

about truth man we kill people with

truth I'm talking

truth I'm no on local politics but

whatever is going on here has clearly

stirred up some strong

emotions see the street here that's

school kid I to go to school they also

want to own that that's

true that's

true wait a

minute wait a minute Chris

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stop

stop stop

talk big man

stop work you see me we

cool which is better to be your own man

uphold family tradition in a dangerous

ever shrinking ever more difficult

business trying to catch fish in the sea

or carry a golf bag for a wealthy

tourist I couldn't tell you I was in the

service industry cooking people's food

for most of my working life so it's not

like I have anything against against it

but I don't

know it's a joyous

day let us find this spirit in

man and

travel to the

unknown you think because we are here in

the present that it it it had just

started long this is coming way out of

the unknown out of the

nothingness and we are going to go on

into the information are to the

celestial we what it called astral

Travelers travel Dimension to Dimension

if one man die all man dead and if one

man live all man

live

tolerance one dog one fall one Co one p

one Moon one Sun it had to be

multi-purpose in order to sustain energy

and life say have black blue green pink

yellow River Sea Mountain bird

dog everything is from the non such

everything is related the car the

money everything is connected to the

universe so if we as a human person does

not realize how vulnerable we are within

the changes of

time Earth will not disappear my Breen

is I

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I who gets to live in

Paradise it's Jamaica let's accept as a

as a basic premise that this is about as

close to Paradise as it gets right this

place I'm staying was built by a guy who

lived here 2 months out of the year that

place down there probably the same in 2

months a year sad to say I I think it's

unlikely that 50 years from now anyone

but the

extraordinarily fortunate the

extraordinarily connected and the

extraordinarily

Rich will be able to even look at a

Vista like

this that is my personal

Theory look here I am fully where the

irony is this

situation it's like the whole

preservation thing who who preserve for

who save the reef for who save the beach

for

whom not you probably

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later that evening Blackwell invited me

to his private bar just down the cliff

from Fleming's old Villa there are very

few pieces of land anywhere on earth

like this especially with this kind of

legendary status legendary status yes

it's Fleming really Bon's birth space

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Chris Blackwell is the founder of Island

Records he's credited with discovering

Bob Marley and spreading the gospel of

Reggae into the mainstream all across

the

world to the extent that one person can

sort of be responsible for the

soundtrack of your life you are

responsible for much of the soundtrack

of my life you signed uh Roxy Music and

Brian briano both yes yes did you have

any idea

cting Bob Marley the extent to

which His Image alone would blow up to

to to you know chuara

level Bo Bob somehow managed to touch

people in every corner of the world in

different different cultures different

societies um no I I never could have

imagined I don't think anybody could

have imagined it's so

unbelievable having sold Island records

for a sum rumored to be in the hundreds

of millions of dollars Blackwell spends

his time well doing whatever he

wants you have a number of hotel

properties um rum business M what's the

master plan or you just having fun well

always is to have fun this part of the

master plan you only live around here

one time so I'm I'm very excited about

here what I'm doing here I'm trying to

to break a little Resort town it's

something that filters into the town

filters into the parish filters into the

country lately the project at hand is

the oracabessa fish Sanctuary set up to

protect the local fish habitat and

breeding grounds a noble cause but one

that has put Blackwell squarely at odds

with some of his

neighbors it seems to me that most

people who come to Jamaica pretty much

stay within the compound uh you know

sandals or whatever and don't really get

out there much it's a business model and

that business model works well for

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people the market that I'm going for are

the ones on the high level in terms of

high cost level is it an inevitability

that basically all of the Caribbean that

it's essentially going to end up as a

service

economy yes I think yes I think I I I I

think mainly so and then it's based on

uh tourism it's based on people visiting

it's tough

balance the engine that's going to

preserve or save is often dependent on

who's coming to look and what they're

willing to pay to come and look MH can

there be a balance do you think I mean

can a place this beautiful be

unspoiled forever I think I think there

could be a couple hundred places like

this in

Jamaica as long as there are people who

can go and spend some money in

communities go to a little restaurant go

to a little bar go to you know shop that

That's essential for Jamaica to really

Thrive if life were a Bond film who

would you be be in a bon film well

there's only one hero in a bon film

that's oh you'd be the hero I'd have to

be i' have to figure that out I don't

know whether I'd be the villain yeah I'd

be like number 17 he has unhappy end

there yes and his end is quite short

yeah

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but we're all looking for isn't it the

perfect

Beach remote uncluttered by douchery

Cold local beer

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the perfect end to a long and well bumpy

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road win's Beach is that beach mostly

locals a few clued in visitors white

sand clear warm

water and of course local

food this is Aki

Jamaica favorite dish typically Jamaica

we use it as a breakfast Cynthia and

Dennis run this place and come highly

recommended I'm told this is the spot

for the classic got to have it or you

ain't really been to Jamaica Aki and

saltfish salt Cod rehydrated and cooked

with Aki a local fruit that happens to

be toxic if you don't handle it right

now they say best AUM saltfish aish

anywhere and yeah also some

banana delicious that is delicious yeah

Cynthia's friends joy and marjerie also

have little restaurants or food stalls

on the beach and they tell me that here

too it's in danger of Redevelopment that

all this might disappear into the ever

churning wheel of well

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win Fred Beach is a public beach it has

been one of the best beach in Jamaica

the beach was left to give the poor

people of Jamaica so the government

takes it over supposedly to make it a

public space but they want to sell it to

a what a hotel group yeah they want to

make like a

resort there were a lot of islands in

the Caribbean where you're not allowed

to own a beach meaning all beaches are

public even if it's a really exclusive

Hotel at least theoretically anybody can

go right here it's different here if you

can buy a house and the beach M you can

if you you you're a hotel you can make

it a private beach meaning they don't

let the locals on or vendors or anything

they could keep people out right so how

many public access beaches are there in

this area just one one that's it more no

more I no more Beach we have other

beaches around you know we have like

blue lag which is a private be J Bay

private and Sansan is private so this is

the only public one you know yeah what

happens if I mean that would be sort of

ridiculous if Jamaicans can't go to the

beach in Jamaica

exactly there are two sides to every

story of course and the government for

its part claims locals will still have

access to their Beach we don't trust

them so we do not believe what they said

want to do want to get us off and like

call six seven here they don't do

anything on it and close it off

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right what kind of monstrous human being

or organization would displace yes the

people from their own Beach from our

freedom they take this away from us we

would like we are in prison yeah yeah

cuz when the time is hot we would have

nowhere to come and

swim so we the people we are in court

with the government because we do not

want them to take away the one and only

beach that we have in Jamaica Portland

what do you think your chances are you

think your chances are are good you're

going to win yes I've been fighting over

seven years trust in the Lord seven

years seven years and I said I'm going

to fight until I reach the top if when I

reach to top and I lose I feel much

better but I'm not giving up let's face

it there are only so many beaches in

this world even fewer unspoiled beaches

and even fewer beaches like

this I mean that's one of the things

that's nice about this area is it's not

a big resort area like some of the other

parts and the food is amazing right yeah

we do nice food you can't get this at

the hotel get it but not like this

that's so fresh really really really

tasty I'm going to have to come back

here like

tomorrow whenever people come here and

they has problem they go to the Sea and

they look over there in the ocean and

when they finished they never have a

problem again it's go right in the water

and down a m

here and I hope that the world can see

what is going on at winred beach right

that they can come out and enjoy the

beauty of the beach the nature of the

beach the people and the love of the

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beach next day and I know where I'm

going R

mango mango your name g abro

because you never know because it may

not be here that much longer not like

this

anyway son sand rum and tin and some

more

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food oh yeah

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hi wow what a

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spread uh I'm not going hungry today

beautiful thank you I'm so

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excited that is actually quite

delicious you're not missing out on

starches when you get yam

plantain bread fruit rice peas corn

carrots dumpling

Festival like the man said eat dessert

first life is

uncertain that's good I knew I was

coming back here I knew it was a smart

move to come back

here these ladies can

cook point being the way the World Turns

The Inevitable grind of History seems to

indicate that places like this

and people like this get plowed under

pushed aside paved

over who owns Paradise after all who in

the end gets to own Paradise use

Paradise or even visit it that's a

question that's probably worth paying

attention to before there's none left at

all

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how do you do this and be a good person

I don't think you can like if you wanted

to do this regularly for the rest of

your life I would like to spend three

months out of the year in a hammock

looking out at the Caribbean in a

secluded Beach like this you'd have to

do bad things to do this

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right James Bond doesn't get this James

Bond's a hustler he gets this for a

couple of days before he moves on to the

next location the guy who lives here is

the bond villain not James

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Bond Ian Fleming was much closer to like

blow Feld or Hugo Drax you know those

guys had lots of leisure time sitting

around in hammocks figuring out how to

take over

World a lot of downtime in world

domination Bond was a working

class that's what I've been

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missing all right go

wide summon the robot

piranhas where's my cocktail