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Britain's iconic bridges, spanning
our most dramatic landscapes,
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have not only linked our island,
but, made it great.
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These are the bridges that
are known around the world,
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built by visionaries
like Stevenson and Brunel
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who are famous even today.
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Look at this!
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From the banks of the Tyne
to the mighty Thames,
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from the Firth of Forth
to the Menai Strait...
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I'm on a journey to discover
how those great bridges were built...
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Here we go.
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And the sweat and sacrifice
that went into their constructions.
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Stopping traffic.
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I'll uncover the huge egos,
flawed geniuses and jealous rivalries
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behind their creation.
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It's as if he'd been airbrushed
from the whole story.
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These are Britain's greatest bridges.
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1,500 tons of wrought iron,
75 metres high,
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stretching gracefully
for over 200 metres
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across the dramatic Avon Gorge
in Somerset,
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the Clifton Suspension Bridge
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is nothing short
of an engineering masterpiece.
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Ask anyone in England
to name a famous engineer
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and they'll probably say
Isambard Kingdom Brunel,
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ask them what he built
and they'll probably say this.
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The Clifton Suspension Bridge
was Brunel's lifelong passion,
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a work of art, that would make him
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one of the most famous engineers
in history.
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Brunel called it his "darling",
his first child.
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And you can see why
he loved it so much.
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It seems to hang in the sky.
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But back in 1830,
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the challenge of designing a bridge
to span this vast chasm
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was a monumental task...
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one that would result
in great rivalries
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and push engineering to new heights.
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For over 150 years,
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this great bridge
has stood as a testament
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to Brunel's engineering brilliance.
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But this bridge
was almost never completed.
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And questions still remain
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as to whether Brunel
was the true designer at all.
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The breathtaking Avon Gorge,
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which marks the boundary
between north Somerset and Bristol
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dates to the last ice age.
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It was formed when the original
River Avon became blocked by ice
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and was diverted, cutting its way
through the soft limestone.
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Looking at it now,
it's hard to believe
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but this narrow stretch
of the River Avon,
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was once one of the most important
waterways in the whole of Britain.
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It linked the bustling city
of Bristol,
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the second-largest port in England,
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with the Bristol Channel,
that's six miles in that direction.
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But back in the 18th century, one of
the port's most profitable activities
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was the trading of slaves...
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its ships sailing to Africa to take
on a human cargo bound for America,
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and returning
with their holds full of sugar.
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It was an inhumane trade
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but nevertheless made Bristol one
of the richest cities in the land.
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Navigating this stretch
of the river wasn't easy.
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The tides
at the mouth of the river Avon
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can vary the water levels
by up to 12 metres,
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that's the second-largest tidal range
of anywhere in the world.
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The rising river could help
the ships in towards Bristol
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and these tides
even made it as far as Bath.
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But at low tide, ships could find
themselves grounded on the riverbed,
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and in the worst cases,
that could cause them to break apart.
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The passage through the Avon Gorge
was undoubtedly hazardous,
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but the profits made the journey
a risk worth taking.
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As a result the city grew
in both wealth and size.
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But, there was only one bridge
across the river Avon in Bristol
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and by 1750
it had become massively congested.
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The first stone bridge
which stood for over 500 years
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was covered in houses and even shops
until it was replaced in 1768.
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The new bridge was supposed
to ease congestion, but it didn't.
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And worse still
for the people of Bristol,
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there was now a toll to use it.
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For years, the locals campaigned
to have the hefty charges scrapped.
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For a while it looked
like the protesters would win
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but the tolls
were just too lucrative.
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And in 1793, the city decided
to extend them instead.
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This resulted in a massive riot.
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At least 11 people were killed,
and another 45 were injured.
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There was no doubt
the city needed another bridge
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but where was the money
going to come from?
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The answer can be found here
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at Merchant Hall in Clifton Down
just metres from the bridge.
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This copy of a will dated 1754,
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is that of one William Vick,
a major wine merchant in Bristol.
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According to its terms,
he left a sum of £1,000
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for a bridge over the River Avon
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from Clifton Town
to the opposite side on Leigh Town
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which he hoped
would be of great public utility.
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Vick requested that when that money
had matured to £10,000
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a bridge was to be built at Clifton
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where high-masted ships
could easily sail below.
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So, there was money on the table
but there was a problem.
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The gorge at its narrowest
was over 200 metres wide
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and nearly 100 metres high.
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No-one had built a bridge that long
or that high before,
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but it didn't stop people
from trying.
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In 1793, over 40 years after
Vick's death
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the appropriately named William
Bridges, a local Bristol engineer,
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submitted this extraordinary design.
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Bridges' vision
was for a five-storey arch
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that would have dominated the gorge,
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incorporating factories, a chapel,
granaries,
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two built-in windmills
and even a naval school.
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But his stone design was dated
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and the cost of building it
would have been well over £10,000,
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a figure William Vick's
initial investment
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was still a long way from reaching.
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00:07:52,720 --> 00:07:55,880
Sadly, nothing ever came
of William Bridges' design
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and it would be another four decades
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before plans for a new bridge
were seriously considered.
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00:08:02,280 --> 00:08:05,080
But even when a design was chosen,
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00:08:05,240 --> 00:08:10,040
building the bridge across the gorge
would take more than three decades
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and prove to be
THE greatest challenge
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for the most famous British engineer
of all time.
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For many people,
the Clifton Suspension Bridge
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spanning the vertigo-inducing
Avon Gorge in Somerset
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is THE most beautiful bridge
in the world...
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a 214 metre-long engineering marvel
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that has dominated
this incredible landscape
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for over a century and a half.
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Today, it is widely regarded
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as the crowning glory
of Isambard Kingdom Brunel,
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one of the greatest engineers
of the 19th century.
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Walking up here alongside the bridge,
stood 250 feet above the river below,
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you can't help but feel a bit small,
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a bit insignificant maybe.
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And not just because of the enormity
of the bridge itself,
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but because of the enormity
of the man behind it.
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Isambard Kingdom Brunel's
Clifton Suspension Bridge
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might never have happened, though...
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were it not for an event
that occurred here,
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in a hole in the ground,
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00:09:57,915 --> 00:10:01,635
over 100 miles from Bristol
in south-east London.
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It was a disaster
that killed six men,
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but that led directly
to Brunel's involvement at Clifton.
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00:10:20,875 --> 00:10:25,115
At this very spot, in February, 1825,
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50 metres from the banks
of the River Thames
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an engineer by the name
of Mark Brunel, Isambard's father,
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began a monumental endeavour.
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His challenge was to link the north
and south banks of the River Thames
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without disrupting the flow
of the 3,000 tall-masted ships
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which sailed up the Thames every day
laden with trade,
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pivotal to the city's economy.
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Brunel's solution was not a bridge
but the Thames Tunnel,
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the so-called
eighth wonder of the world.
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This was Brunel's
grand entrance hall
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which led down to the first-ever
tunnel beneath the Thames.
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In fact it was the first tunnel
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beneath any river
anywhere in the world.
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It connected Rotherhithe
here on the south side of the river
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across to Wapping on the north bank
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without blocking any shipping
in and out of London.
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At almost 400 metres in length,
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20 metres
below the surface of the river,
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00:11:32,795 --> 00:11:37,035
the construction of the Thames
Tunnel was a mammoth undertaking.
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At the time, it was THE most
ambitious engineering project
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anywhere in the world.
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Perhaps even more amazing
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was that Mark Brunel
entrusted most of the day-to-day work
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to his deputy engineer,
his son Isambard,
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who was aged just 20
when he was appointed the role.
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The grand entrance,
or sinking shaft as it became known,
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was the elaborate way
into the subterranean tunnel.
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The tunnel itself
runs right beneath my feet,
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and you can see
up on the walls here
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where the old stairways
would run all the way down.
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When the tunnel was opened
to the public in 1843,
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on the first day alone, 50,000 people
passed through these walls.
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After three months,
one million people had visited
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all desperate to experience
the world's first river tunnel.
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These days,
the tunnel is used by trains
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on the London Overground network
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carrying thousands of commuters
beneath the Thames every day.
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But while 21st century commuters
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might well take the tunnel
for granted,
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back in the 1820s, the construction
process was a Herculean challenge
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that was fraught with danger.
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On the 12th of January, 1828,
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the roof gave way
and the freezing water burst through.
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Six workers were killed,
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and Isambard himself was carried out
unconscious but alive.
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Britain had almost lost one
of its greatest-ever engineers
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before he'd finished
his first project.
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Needing to convalesce,
Brunel was sent to Bristol
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and it was this
that led to his involvement
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in the Clifton Suspension Bridge.
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By now,
William Vick's initial investments
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for a new bridge across the gorge
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had risen from £1,000 to £8,000.
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And the city was keen to spend it.
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Additional funding was still needed
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00:13:50,395 --> 00:13:53,395
but Bristol
just couldn't wait any longer
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so the city announced a competition
to find an engineer
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00:13:57,035 --> 00:14:01,795
to design and build the long-awaited
bridge across the gorge.
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Never one to doubt his own abilities,
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00:14:05,875 --> 00:14:09,395
the 23-year-old Brunel
leapt at the chance.
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In seven weeks, he produced
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not one but four separate designs
for the bridge.
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These weren't just plans
for any old bridge,
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they were plans for
THE highest and THE longest bridge
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00:14:21,715 --> 00:14:23,555
that had ever been built.
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00:14:23,715 --> 00:14:26,435
Now, plans are one thing,
but if he won,
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Brunel would also have the mammoth
task of actually building it.
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Brunel, though, was not fazed
and submitted his drawings.
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The city of Bristol
would now have to decide
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which of a total of 22 designs
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received from well-established
and budding engineers
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would be the winner.
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00:14:47,715 --> 00:14:51,435
And it was clear that one type
of structure was considered the key
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00:14:51,595 --> 00:14:55,435
to spanning the 200 metre-wide gorge,
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00:14:55,595 --> 00:15:00,035
the suspension bridge, which by 1828,
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00:15:00,195 --> 00:15:05,755
had successfully been used
to span rivers up to 175 metres wide.
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00:15:07,955 --> 00:15:09,875
For thousands of years,
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00:15:10,035 --> 00:15:13,315
primitive suspension bridges
have been used to cross rivers.
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00:15:14,635 --> 00:15:18,355
The genius of their design
lies in their simplicity -
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00:15:18,515 --> 00:15:22,715
a single span supported entirely
from anchors at each end.
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00:15:22,875 --> 00:15:26,515
The result
is a strong yet flexible structure
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that requires no central supports
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built into
the often-treacherous rivers below.
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Alright.
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Now, this is a great place to see how
a suspension bridge really works.
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The entire weight of the bridge,
all 1,500 tons of it,
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is supported
by these huge, big chains
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00:15:48,515 --> 00:15:51,915
that run the whole length
from one side to the other.
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00:15:52,075 --> 00:15:55,075
Now, you might think
that when those chains reach here,
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00:15:55,235 --> 00:15:59,475
that weight they're holding is
transferred down through the towers
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00:15:59,635 --> 00:16:01,235
and into the cliffs below.
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00:16:01,395 --> 00:16:03,035
Well, some of it is.
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But a lot of the weight is actually
taken by the anchor points
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at the very ends of the chains,
buried deep down into the cliffside.
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00:16:10,635 --> 00:16:12,435
And one of the key decisions
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00:16:12,595 --> 00:16:14,635
anyone designing a suspension bridge
has to make
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00:16:14,795 --> 00:16:17,395
is how long these chains should be,
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00:16:17,555 --> 00:16:21,915
ie, how much of a dip
you get between the two towers.
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00:16:22,075 --> 00:16:24,875
In every suspension bridge
ever built,
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the engineers
have had to find a compromise
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00:16:27,915 --> 00:16:30,675
between the tightness of the cables,
242
00:16:30,835 --> 00:16:32,835
and the stiffness of the bridge.
243
00:16:32,995 --> 00:16:34,755
So, here is my model
244
00:16:34,915 --> 00:16:36,355
of a suspension bridge.
245
00:16:36,515 --> 00:16:38,155
I've got the towers here
246
00:16:38,315 --> 00:16:39,955
on either end,
247
00:16:40,115 --> 00:16:42,555
the string represents the chain,
248
00:16:42,715 --> 00:16:44,355
the weight hanging off of the string
249
00:16:44,515 --> 00:16:46,555
is the weight of the bridge decks
250
00:16:46,715 --> 00:16:48,315
that the chain supports.
251
00:16:48,475 --> 00:16:52,395
And on either end I've got my anchor
points holding the chain in place.
252
00:16:52,555 --> 00:16:53,875
And finally, here,
253
00:16:54,035 --> 00:16:55,395
built into my piece of string
254
00:16:55,555 --> 00:16:57,235
I've got a little device
255
00:16:57,395 --> 00:17:01,155
which tells me how tight
the chain is being pulled.
256
00:17:01,315 --> 00:17:02,915
It's kind of like the device you use
257
00:17:03,075 --> 00:17:04,395
when you weigh your luggage
258
00:17:04,555 --> 00:17:05,915
when you go on holiday.
259
00:17:06,075 --> 00:17:10,795
The pull on the cables is currently
only about half a kilogram.
260
00:17:10,955 --> 00:17:12,795
Now, if I shorten the chain,
261
00:17:12,955 --> 00:17:16,755
immediately you see the dip
in the middle is much smaller,
262
00:17:16,915 --> 00:17:21,995
and my device here is giving me
a reading of 1.5 kilograms.
263
00:17:22,155 --> 00:17:24,315
So this is now quite tight.
264
00:17:24,475 --> 00:17:26,995
You can see
that's not giving very much at all.
265
00:17:27,155 --> 00:17:28,755
Have it too tight
266
00:17:28,915 --> 00:17:32,315
and you risk that the anchors
get pulled clean out of the ground,
267
00:17:32,475 --> 00:17:34,875
and the whole bridge
just comes crashing down.
268
00:17:35,035 --> 00:17:38,795
You might think that a loose chain
is the way to go -
269
00:17:38,955 --> 00:17:42,435
less risk of the chains pulling
themselves out from the ground.
270
00:17:42,595 --> 00:17:44,075
But you'd be wrong.
271
00:17:44,235 --> 00:17:45,955
Have it too loose,
272
00:17:46,115 --> 00:17:50,835
and the bridge can easily
sway back and forth.
273
00:17:50,995 --> 00:17:55,155
And that's not what you want
when you're 75 metres up in the air.
274
00:18:01,475 --> 00:18:06,035
The fact that Brunel's, and so many
of the other 22 designs submitted
275
00:18:06,195 --> 00:18:07,875
were for suspension bridges,
276
00:18:08,035 --> 00:18:09,995
had a lot to do with this,
277
00:18:10,155 --> 00:18:12,635
the Menai Bridge
across the Menai Strait
278
00:18:12,795 --> 00:18:15,715
from the Welsh mainland to Anglesey.
279
00:18:15,875 --> 00:18:18,195
This revolutionary bridge,
280
00:18:18,355 --> 00:18:22,795
with a record-breaking single span
of 177 metres,
281
00:18:22,955 --> 00:18:25,035
proved for the first time
282
00:18:25,195 --> 00:18:28,635
that it was possible
for the heavy-duty suspension bridge
283
00:18:28,795 --> 00:18:31,355
to cover vast distances.
284
00:18:33,075 --> 00:18:34,875
And, importantly,
285
00:18:35,035 --> 00:18:38,715
given the limited budget available
to span the Avon Gorge,
286
00:18:38,875 --> 00:18:43,155
the suspension bridge used far less
materials than other bridge designs,
287
00:18:43,315 --> 00:18:45,235
so they were cheaper to build.
288
00:18:46,475 --> 00:18:49,875
The Menai Suspension Bridge,
completed in 1826,
289
00:18:50,035 --> 00:18:51,355
was built by Thomas Telford,
290
00:18:51,515 --> 00:18:53,755
one of the greatest engineers
in the country.
291
00:18:53,915 --> 00:18:57,795
And the man the city of Bristol
turned to to judge their competition.
292
00:18:57,955 --> 00:19:01,315
Unfortunately, Telford rejected
all the designs,
293
00:19:01,475 --> 00:19:03,155
saying of Brunel's bridges
294
00:19:03,315 --> 00:19:06,115
that they would certainly tumble down
in a strong wind.
295
00:19:06,275 --> 00:19:08,315
His key point
was that it was impossible
296
00:19:08,475 --> 00:19:14,195
for anyone to build a suspension
bridge longer than 183 metres,
297
00:19:14,355 --> 00:19:17,515
roughly the length of his own bridge
across the Menai Strait.
298
00:19:17,675 --> 00:19:21,195
But, Telford kindly offered
to save the day.
299
00:19:22,195 --> 00:19:24,915
In what some felt
was a cunning move,
300
00:19:25,075 --> 00:19:27,275
Telford submitted his own design,
301
00:19:27,435 --> 00:19:33,155
a three-span suspension bridge
supported by two huge gothic towers.
302
00:19:33,315 --> 00:19:37,955
These helped reduce the central span
to just 110 metres,
303
00:19:38,115 --> 00:19:42,755
almost a third of the length
of Brunel's first design.
304
00:19:42,915 --> 00:19:47,195
To the bemusement of many,
Telford was awarded the contract.
305
00:19:48,475 --> 00:19:52,475
After losing, it's said Brunel
lit up one of his famous cigars,
306
00:19:52,635 --> 00:19:54,555
and smoked away his anger.
307
00:19:54,715 --> 00:19:59,275
But Brunel's disappointment
was short lived.
308
00:19:59,435 --> 00:20:03,555
Telford's bridge would cost
£52,000 to build,
309
00:20:03,715 --> 00:20:06,275
over six times the budget,
310
00:20:06,435 --> 00:20:08,715
and many thought
the monstrous pillars
311
00:20:08,875 --> 00:20:11,595
would ruin
the natural beauty of the gorge.
312
00:20:11,755 --> 00:20:15,515
Eventually, the committee decided
a second competition was needed,
313
00:20:15,675 --> 00:20:18,195
with both Telford
and Brunel entering.
314
00:20:18,355 --> 00:20:22,115
Brunel sketched out
four new designs,
315
00:20:22,275 --> 00:20:26,875
this time, for a bridge
with a span of 194 metres.
316
00:20:27,035 --> 00:20:31,715
Better still, he added a price tag
of just £42,000,
317
00:20:31,875 --> 00:20:34,395
10,000 less than Telford's,
318
00:20:34,555 --> 00:20:36,795
and yet neither of them won.
319
00:20:36,955 --> 00:20:42,795
The new judge brought in to replace
Telford was Davies Gilbert,
320
00:20:42,955 --> 00:20:45,115
a mathematician and theorist
321
00:20:45,275 --> 00:20:48,435
who'd helped mastermind
the record-breaking Menai Bridge.
322
00:20:49,795 --> 00:20:51,555
After scrutinising designs
323
00:20:51,715 --> 00:20:55,315
by entrants
including Brunel and Telford,
324
00:20:55,475 --> 00:20:58,635
along with engineers Samuel Brown,
and William Hawkes
325
00:20:58,795 --> 00:21:00,955
from the Eagle Foundry in Birmingham,
326
00:21:01,115 --> 00:21:04,475
Gilbert recorded his conclusions.
327
00:21:04,635 --> 00:21:07,115
"I would place them
in the following order,"
328
00:21:07,275 --> 00:21:12,475
"first, Mr Hawkes, second, Mr Brunel."
329
00:21:12,635 --> 00:21:15,315
"Third, Mr Brown."
330
00:21:15,475 --> 00:21:19,235
Unfortunately, Telford's design
was placed to one side
331
00:21:19,395 --> 00:21:21,835
on the grounds
of being too expensive.
332
00:21:21,995 --> 00:21:26,155
So, it was Mr Hawkes' design
that was considered first class.
333
00:21:26,315 --> 00:21:28,395
But despite the judge's
recommendations,
334
00:21:28,555 --> 00:21:32,635
he wasn't given the job,
and so, returned to Birmingham
335
00:21:32,795 --> 00:21:36,155
where he went on to enjoy a career
designing postboxes.
336
00:21:36,315 --> 00:21:40,235
So, what led
to the committee's change of heart?
337
00:21:40,395 --> 00:21:43,995
Well, in what was nothing short
of an audacious move
338
00:21:44,155 --> 00:21:45,755
by the young engineer,
339
00:21:45,915 --> 00:21:49,675
Brunel confronted Gilbert,
the competition judge,
340
00:21:49,835 --> 00:21:51,155
discrediting the winning entry
341
00:21:51,315 --> 00:21:55,435
by revealing what he considered
to be serious design flaws
342
00:21:55,595 --> 00:22:00,035
and insisting that his
was the only workable design.
343
00:22:02,075 --> 00:22:04,595
Convinced, Gilbert conceded,
344
00:22:04,755 --> 00:22:07,955
and after agreeing
to make a series of adjustments,
345
00:22:08,115 --> 00:22:10,835
Brunel was declared the winner.
346
00:22:10,995 --> 00:22:13,955
The young engineer
had never built a bridge before,
347
00:22:14,115 --> 00:22:17,795
and perhaps it was Brunel's
sheer confidence in his design
348
00:22:17,955 --> 00:22:19,835
that led to him winning the contract.
349
00:22:21,035 --> 00:22:22,995
So, was the cocky engineer right
350
00:22:23,155 --> 00:22:26,115
to have so much faith
in his own design?
351
00:22:27,595 --> 00:22:29,515
Experts today, believe
352
00:22:29,675 --> 00:22:33,115
he got the all-important
length of the chains spot on.
353
00:22:34,795 --> 00:22:38,675
But, little did Brunel know
that completing the bridge,
354
00:22:38,835 --> 00:22:41,275
would be his greatest-ever challenge.
355
00:22:41,435 --> 00:22:44,555
And prove to be more
than a lifetime's work.
356
00:23:15,590 --> 00:23:20,030
In June, 1831,
groundwork began at the Avon Gorge
357
00:23:20,190 --> 00:23:23,630
in preparation to build
Brunel's masterpiece.
358
00:23:27,190 --> 00:23:30,110
For the 24-year-old engineer,
359
00:23:30,270 --> 00:23:31,910
the Clifton Suspension Bridge
360
00:23:32,070 --> 00:23:34,750
would be his first major project
in charge...
361
00:23:36,230 --> 00:23:40,550
and ultimately the most challenging
of his entire career.
362
00:23:43,070 --> 00:23:46,470
Of all the projects Isambard Kingdom
Brunel was involved with,
363
00:23:46,630 --> 00:23:50,670
the Clifton Suspension Bridge
is probably the most well recognised.
364
00:23:50,830 --> 00:23:52,830
But the bridge
that stands here today,
365
00:23:52,990 --> 00:23:56,750
is very different to the one
Brunel originally wanted to build.
366
00:23:58,310 --> 00:24:00,710
This early drawing
clearly illustrates
367
00:24:00,870 --> 00:24:03,710
how Brunel
intended the bridge to look
368
00:24:03,870 --> 00:24:06,630
when he first sketched out a design.
369
00:24:06,790 --> 00:24:11,590
The roadway suspended by chains
attached to the top of the cliff,
370
00:24:11,750 --> 00:24:15,510
and accessed by tunnels
carved out of the solid rock.
371
00:24:17,830 --> 00:24:21,750
But the 299-metre span
exceeded the length
372
00:24:21,910 --> 00:24:25,510
deemed safe by suspension bridge
expert Thomas Telford.
373
00:24:27,310 --> 00:24:31,070
Brunel's solution was to build
two platforms called abutments
374
00:24:31,230 --> 00:24:33,070
out of the jagged cliff.
375
00:24:33,230 --> 00:24:37,150
These would form the foundations
for two large towers,
376
00:24:37,310 --> 00:24:39,790
from which the chains
would be draped,
377
00:24:39,950 --> 00:24:45,830
reducing the free suspended span
of the bridge to 194 metres,
378
00:24:45,990 --> 00:24:49,390
much more in line with
Telford's recommendations.
379
00:24:52,550 --> 00:24:54,990
Until recently, it was assumed
380
00:24:55,150 --> 00:24:59,910
the abutments at either end
of the bridge, were solid.
381
00:25:00,070 --> 00:25:02,750
But, in 2002,
382
00:25:02,910 --> 00:25:06,150
the maintenance team discovered
a hidden shaft,
383
00:25:06,310 --> 00:25:10,590
leading to a series
of underground tunnels and vaults.
384
00:25:10,750 --> 00:25:12,430
I've been given special permission
385
00:25:12,590 --> 00:25:16,110
to explore the bridge's
best kept secret,
386
00:25:16,270 --> 00:25:20,310
a secret which is key
to the entire structure's success.
387
00:25:20,470 --> 00:25:22,910
Isambard, hi. Hi.
How are you doing?
388
00:25:23,070 --> 00:25:25,310
And joining me is a man
called Isambard Thomas,
389
00:25:25,470 --> 00:25:27,990
Brunel's great-great-great grandson.
390
00:25:28,150 --> 00:25:30,310
How was the journey? Easy.
391
00:25:30,470 --> 00:25:32,510
So, we're going down in the vaults
392
00:25:32,670 --> 00:25:34,750
up here
in the suspension bridge today.
393
00:25:34,910 --> 00:25:37,030
Have you been down there before?
I've never been down.
394
00:25:37,070 --> 00:25:40,310
I've been on the bridge many times,
but, never inside the vaults.
395
00:25:40,470 --> 00:25:42,350
It's a fantastic view.
396
00:25:42,510 --> 00:25:46,110
Today, we're heading deep
into the very foundations
397
00:25:46,270 --> 00:25:48,830
of this incredible structure.
398
00:25:48,990 --> 00:25:52,510
Our guide is Bridge Master
David Anderson.
399
00:25:52,670 --> 00:25:56,350
This little wall here, was that part
of the transportation system
400
00:25:56,510 --> 00:25:57,830
during the construction?
401
00:25:57,990 --> 00:25:58,830
That's right. Yeah.
402
00:25:58,990 --> 00:26:02,110
That was the abutment for the iron
bar that Brunel put across the gorge,
403
00:26:02,270 --> 00:26:05,110
for the transporting men
and materials across the gorge
404
00:26:05,270 --> 00:26:07,310
when the two towers
and abutments were being built.
405
00:26:07,470 --> 00:26:09,270
Fantastic.
It was a long way round, otherwise.
406
00:26:09,390 --> 00:26:10,870
Exactly.
407
00:26:11,030 --> 00:26:14,790
This steel door now covers
the entrance to the vaults
408
00:26:14,950 --> 00:26:19,710
which were sealed off and forgotten
about for more than 150 years.
409
00:26:22,110 --> 00:26:25,510
Wow.. Look at this.
410
00:26:44,750 --> 00:26:47,830
What do you think of that, Isambard?
It's quite stunning.
411
00:26:47,990 --> 00:26:51,070
It's quite a surprise.
412
00:26:51,230 --> 00:26:53,206
It's sort of really not
what I was expecting at all.
413
00:26:53,230 --> 00:26:57,230
It's actually quite like a bridge
arch, isn't it? Indeed.
414
00:26:57,390 --> 00:27:01,030
It's just like a... In fact it is a
bridge with water on the side of it.
415
00:27:01,190 --> 00:27:03,270
It's absolutely beautiful.
416
00:27:03,430 --> 00:27:09,310
This arched chamber, built
out of the steep limestone cliff,
417
00:27:09,470 --> 00:27:12,510
is one of a network
of 12 interconnecting vaults
418
00:27:12,670 --> 00:27:15,910
that form the two-storey abutment.
419
00:27:16,070 --> 00:27:17,470
It was Brunel's ingenious way
420
00:27:17,630 --> 00:27:21,070
of distributing the weight
of the bridge effectively,
421
00:27:21,230 --> 00:27:24,070
keeping it strong and stable,
422
00:27:24,230 --> 00:27:27,870
but at the same time,
using less material,
423
00:27:28,030 --> 00:27:30,950
which crucially kept costs down.
424
00:27:32,030 --> 00:27:36,110
This is vault number four out of 12.
David, this is incredible.
425
00:27:36,270 --> 00:27:38,230
This is one of the better vaults
we've got.
426
00:27:38,390 --> 00:27:44,070
It's about 11 metres high, it's got
a span of six metres across,
427
00:27:44,230 --> 00:27:47,070
and the length of this one
is nearly 20 metres.
428
00:27:47,230 --> 00:27:49,430
So quite impressive.
429
00:27:50,430 --> 00:27:53,390
And of course what you are looking
at here is the natural rock
430
00:27:53,550 --> 00:27:56,310
going back up the slope
of the gorge.
431
00:27:56,470 --> 00:27:59,430
As you can see,
they just built around it.
432
00:27:59,590 --> 00:28:04,310
Over the decades, water has leaked
through the limestone ceiling,
433
00:28:04,470 --> 00:28:07,070
forming these beautiful stalactites,
434
00:28:07,230 --> 00:28:10,390
some of which
are up to four metres long.
435
00:28:10,550 --> 00:28:14,390
These stalactites give it quite an
awesome effect in here, don't they?
436
00:28:14,550 --> 00:28:16,790
Yeah. Water percolates through.
437
00:28:16,950 --> 00:28:19,510
It was built without any
water proofing over the top
438
00:28:19,670 --> 00:28:21,990
so rainwater does percolate through.
439
00:28:22,150 --> 00:28:24,070
And it's very damp and humid
in here.
440
00:28:24,230 --> 00:28:26,750
And over 180 years,
441
00:28:26,910 --> 00:28:31,270
the water trickling through has
allowed those stalactites to form.
442
00:28:31,430 --> 00:28:34,510
It's basically lime being washed
out of the lime mortar.
443
00:28:34,670 --> 00:28:37,190
Amazing.
Beautiful effect isn't it?
444
00:28:37,350 --> 00:28:38,990
Yeah. I mean it's like...
It really is.
445
00:28:39,150 --> 00:28:41,750
It's very cathedral-like in here, isn't it?
Yeah. That's right.
446
00:28:41,910 --> 00:28:44,510
And of course the water drips off
the ends of the stalactites
447
00:28:44,670 --> 00:28:46,510
lands on the ground,
and forms a stalagmite.
448
00:28:46,670 --> 00:28:48,990
Yeah... yeah. Amazing.
449
00:28:49,150 --> 00:28:52,630
So, there are more chambers like this
down here? There's 12 chambers altogether.
450
00:28:52,790 --> 00:28:54,190
And they are all linked
451
00:28:54,350 --> 00:28:56,510
with various little passageways
and tunnels and shafts.
452
00:28:56,670 --> 00:28:59,230
You'd have absolutely no idea
walking across the bridge
453
00:28:59,390 --> 00:29:00,710
that this was all down here.
454
00:29:00,870 --> 00:29:02,350
That's correct.
455
00:29:05,190 --> 00:29:09,750
Come through and have a look through here.
The maze continues, David.
456
00:29:11,870 --> 00:29:15,550
Here you go. So, this
is vault number five of 12.
457
00:29:15,710 --> 00:29:19,350
This is actually the largest
vault of the lot. Amazing.
458
00:29:19,510 --> 00:29:21,790
And we're right under the tower now.
459
00:29:21,950 --> 00:29:25,710
So, the Leigh Wood's tower,
basically straddles across the road.
460
00:29:25,870 --> 00:29:28,950
The roadway runs along
the top of the... of this chamber.
461
00:29:29,110 --> 00:29:32,470
And the two legs of the tower
sit on top of these walls.
462
00:29:32,630 --> 00:29:36,270
These take the weight of the tower
right down to the rock below us.
463
00:29:36,430 --> 00:29:38,950
It's extraordinary, isn't it?
464
00:29:39,110 --> 00:29:41,430
Right here, we are
surrounded by the bridge.
465
00:29:41,590 --> 00:29:45,110
We are in a vault,
vault there, vault there,
466
00:29:45,270 --> 00:29:48,030
vault there, vault there
and a tower right above us.
467
00:29:48,190 --> 00:29:49,726
In the heart of the abutment here.
Yeah.
468
00:29:49,750 --> 00:29:51,270
This is the central vault.
469
00:29:51,430 --> 00:29:54,150
And four more at this level
and another five down below.
470
00:29:54,310 --> 00:29:56,830
And the bricks are very...
They're pretty rough, aren't they?
471
00:29:56,990 --> 00:29:59,230
Well, Brunel didn't expect anybody
to come in here
472
00:29:59,390 --> 00:30:02,310
and admire the handicraft
so... it's...
473
00:30:02,470 --> 00:30:04,886
I wonder, are you sure about that?
It's just left very rough ..
474
00:30:04,910 --> 00:30:07,950
Look at the stonework around this little
tunnel here. It's beautifully done..
475
00:30:08,110 --> 00:30:10,190
It's built to last
but it's not built for appearance.
476
00:30:10,310 --> 00:30:12,870
You know, that little tunnel
needed to last forever.
477
00:30:13,030 --> 00:30:16,870
The more you learn about this bridge
the more impressed you are, I think.
478
00:30:17,030 --> 00:30:21,630
Does this change your kind of
feelings about the bridge at all?
479
00:30:21,790 --> 00:30:23,670
Or enhanced them in any way?
480
00:30:23,830 --> 00:30:25,830
Well, both of those things, yeah.
481
00:30:25,990 --> 00:30:28,630
The skill with which
they built it...
482
00:30:28,790 --> 00:30:30,590
it's beautiful.
483
00:30:33,110 --> 00:30:35,030
The intricate abutments
484
00:30:35,190 --> 00:30:38,830
are a testament
to Brunel's incredible design.
485
00:30:38,990 --> 00:30:43,630
But, just four months after
work began on the bridge,
486
00:30:43,790 --> 00:30:46,830
the entire project
was brought to a dramatic halt
487
00:30:46,990 --> 00:30:51,270
by a decision made
over 100 miles away in London.
488
00:30:52,630 --> 00:30:55,030
In October, 1831,
489
00:30:55,190 --> 00:30:59,390
a government U-turn on plans
to give more people a right to vote,
490
00:30:59,550 --> 00:31:01,830
led to anger on the streets.
491
00:31:03,070 --> 00:31:07,550
Bristol was once again
a city in crisis.
492
00:31:09,390 --> 00:31:14,030
Building didn't start for five years
due to yet more rioting in Bristol
493
00:31:14,190 --> 00:31:17,270
as political unrest
swept across the country.
494
00:31:17,430 --> 00:31:20,910
Brunel himself was enlisted
as a Special Constable.
495
00:31:21,070 --> 00:31:23,670
While calm was eventually restored,
496
00:31:23,830 --> 00:31:26,990
investor confidence
had been shaken to the core.
497
00:31:27,150 --> 00:31:31,870
When work on the bridge
finally resumed in December, 1835,
498
00:31:32,030 --> 00:31:36,230
a grand ceremony was held to mark
the laying of the foundation stone,
499
00:31:36,390 --> 00:31:38,990
and reignite faded interest.
500
00:31:39,990 --> 00:31:43,670
But it wasn't long before the
enormity of the project was realised.
501
00:31:45,430 --> 00:31:49,910
The huge abutments
and two 26 metre-tall towers
502
00:31:50,070 --> 00:31:54,630
took six years to build, almost
three years longer than planned,
503
00:31:54,790 --> 00:31:58,230
crippling the already-overstretched
budget.
504
00:31:58,390 --> 00:32:03,030
A rethink to Brunel's flamboyant
design was urgently needed.
505
00:32:04,350 --> 00:32:06,550
The stonework on the towers here
506
00:32:06,710 --> 00:32:10,630
was supposed to be covered
with stylised iron panels,
507
00:32:10,790 --> 00:32:14,110
illustrating the story
of the construction of the bridge.
508
00:32:14,270 --> 00:32:19,310
The plans even showed two sphinxes
one atop each of the towers.
509
00:32:19,470 --> 00:32:22,870
Sadly, all of this was considered
too expensive.
510
00:32:25,590 --> 00:32:29,670
As various cost-cutting solutions
were offered, and rejected,
511
00:32:29,830 --> 00:32:34,230
doubts were raised as to whether
the bridge would ever be finished,
512
00:32:34,390 --> 00:32:39,670
one local predicting
a completion date of 1987.
513
00:32:41,030 --> 00:32:43,550
As progress on the bridge
slowed to a crawl,
514
00:32:43,710 --> 00:32:46,990
Brunel turned his attention
to other projects.
515
00:32:50,110 --> 00:32:54,510
By now, Brunel was not only in charge
of the Clifton Suspension Bridge,
516
00:32:54,670 --> 00:32:59,190
he was also Chief Engineer
on another massively ambitious build,
517
00:32:59,350 --> 00:33:01,430
The Great Western Railway.
518
00:33:02,630 --> 00:33:07,390
This 116-mile track
would provide a high-speed link
519
00:33:07,550 --> 00:33:09,390
between London and Bristol,
520
00:33:09,550 --> 00:33:14,710
cutting the journey time by 13 hours
to just four.
521
00:33:14,870 --> 00:33:18,390
Brunel would design every aspect
of the railway,
522
00:33:18,550 --> 00:33:23,630
including three viaducts, seven
tunnels and four major bridges.
523
00:33:25,230 --> 00:33:26,830
If this wasn't enough
of a distraction
524
00:33:26,990 --> 00:33:29,790
from his barely-started bridge
at Clifton,
525
00:33:29,950 --> 00:33:33,870
Brunel had also developed
an interest in ship building.
526
00:33:36,670 --> 00:33:39,270
This is the SS Great Britain,
527
00:33:39,430 --> 00:33:42,550
the second of Brunel's
massive liners,
528
00:33:42,710 --> 00:33:46,070
and the first iron ship ever
to cross the Atlantic.
529
00:33:46,230 --> 00:33:50,030
She was built right here,
in Bristol in the 1840s.
530
00:33:50,190 --> 00:33:51,510
And on her maiden voyage
531
00:33:51,670 --> 00:33:55,710
she sailed right past
the unfinished towers at Clifton.
532
00:33:55,870 --> 00:33:59,390
By 1843,
the towers were finally finished
533
00:33:59,550 --> 00:34:02,670
and most of the iron work
for the crossing had been delivered.
534
00:34:02,830 --> 00:34:06,350
But, money for the bridge
had now completely dried up
535
00:34:06,510 --> 00:34:10,630
and construction work came to a halt.
536
00:34:10,790 --> 00:34:12,470
In a letter to the local paper
537
00:34:12,630 --> 00:34:16,790
one man referred to them
as "unsightly piers"
538
00:34:16,950 --> 00:34:19,630
and suggested
they be left uncompleted
539
00:34:19,790 --> 00:34:22,630
"as monuments to our folly".
540
00:34:24,190 --> 00:34:28,550
The future of the Clifton Suspension
Bridge lay in tatters,
541
00:34:28,710 --> 00:34:32,950
but Brunel's numerous
other projects remained on track.
542
00:34:33,110 --> 00:34:36,110
In 1858, Brunel was photographed
543
00:34:36,270 --> 00:34:38,670
at the launch
of the largest of his steamers,
544
00:34:38,830 --> 00:34:40,590
the SS Great Eastern.
545
00:34:41,590 --> 00:34:45,750
He looks every inch
the powerful Victorian engineer.
546
00:34:45,910 --> 00:34:49,030
But the incredible workload
of numerous projects
547
00:34:49,190 --> 00:34:51,350
was about to take its toll.
548
00:34:54,070 --> 00:34:57,670
This photo,
taken less than two years later,
549
00:34:57,830 --> 00:34:59,990
shows a very different man -
550
00:35:00,150 --> 00:35:02,310
broken and frail.
551
00:35:02,470 --> 00:35:08,710
And just minutes after this
was taken, Brunel suffered a stroke.
552
00:35:09,790 --> 00:35:12,470
He died 10 days later
553
00:35:12,630 --> 00:35:15,310
at the age of just 53.
554
00:35:15,470 --> 00:35:20,830
Despite years of trying, Brunel
never saw his bridge completed.
555
00:35:23,710 --> 00:35:28,270
At the time of his death, most
of the bridge was still unfinished,
556
00:35:28,430 --> 00:35:30,270
the decks were missing,
557
00:35:30,430 --> 00:35:33,110
the chains and numerous other parts
had been sold off.
558
00:35:34,350 --> 00:35:38,150
So, the question is who on earth
would want to take up the challenge
559
00:35:38,310 --> 00:35:41,710
of completing Brunel's
most iconic design?
560
00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:17,440
For over a century and a half,
561
00:36:17,600 --> 00:36:22,120
the Clifton Suspension Bridge
has dominated the Avon Gorge.
562
00:36:22,280 --> 00:36:24,120
Brunel's mesmerising design
563
00:36:24,280 --> 00:36:27,640
has become
the symbol of the city of Bristol
564
00:36:27,800 --> 00:36:32,000
and there is no better place
to appreciate it than from up here.
565
00:36:32,160 --> 00:36:34,680
What an amazing view.
566
00:36:34,840 --> 00:36:38,040
For many, this bridge,
the Clifton Suspension Bridge,
567
00:36:38,200 --> 00:36:42,320
is the crowning glory
of Isambard Kingdom Brunel's career.
568
00:36:48,600 --> 00:36:51,880
For 30 years, Brunel tried
to get the bridge finished
569
00:36:52,040 --> 00:36:56,200
but the project was crippled
by bad luck and lack of money.
570
00:36:57,320 --> 00:37:00,440
When he died, in 1859...
571
00:37:01,680 --> 00:37:04,200
the only part of the bridge
that had been built
572
00:37:04,360 --> 00:37:09,520
were the so-called
"monuments of failure", the towers.
573
00:37:11,040 --> 00:37:13,840
The road deck was nonexistent
574
00:37:14,000 --> 00:37:17,080
and the suspension chains
had been sold off.
575
00:37:17,240 --> 00:37:21,560
But just when many thought that
the bridge would never be finished...
576
00:37:22,680 --> 00:37:26,120
another suspension bridge
came to its rescue...
577
00:37:27,720 --> 00:37:32,320
this one, the Hungerford Bridge
across the River Thames
578
00:37:32,480 --> 00:37:35,480
where the Charing Cross Bridge
now stands.
579
00:37:36,600 --> 00:37:37,920
If you look closely behind me,
580
00:37:38,080 --> 00:37:40,760
you'll see there are actually
a number of bridges here.
581
00:37:40,920 --> 00:37:44,040
In the middle, the Charing Cross
Bridge, the railway bridge,
582
00:37:44,200 --> 00:37:47,120
and on either side of that,
a pair of pedestrian bridges,
583
00:37:47,280 --> 00:37:49,200
the Golden Jubilee Bridges.
584
00:37:49,360 --> 00:37:52,480
But there are actually remnants
of a fourth bridge here too.
585
00:37:52,640 --> 00:37:56,240
The brick buttresses
of what's now the railway bridge
586
00:37:56,400 --> 00:37:59,560
are actually the original foundations
of another Brunel bridge,
587
00:37:59,720 --> 00:38:01,800
the original Hungerford Bridge,
588
00:38:01,960 --> 00:38:07,040
which stood here until 1862,
when work began to knock it down.
589
00:38:07,200 --> 00:38:11,280
Brunel's footbridge
only lasted 14 years
590
00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:14,840
and featured a pier
for steamers to dock.
591
00:38:15,000 --> 00:38:19,400
It was the only suspension bridge
that Brunel completed in his lifetime.
592
00:38:19,560 --> 00:38:22,200
It was demolished to make way
for a new railway bridge
593
00:38:22,360 --> 00:38:24,040
into Charing Cross Station.
594
00:38:24,200 --> 00:38:28,600
The engineer in charge
of building the new Thames Bridge
595
00:38:28,760 --> 00:38:32,640
was John Hawkshaw,
an admirer of Brunel's,
596
00:38:32,800 --> 00:38:35,000
and together with his colleague,
William Barlow,
597
00:38:35,160 --> 00:38:38,480
the pair came up with a radical idea.
598
00:38:38,640 --> 00:38:42,040
Why not use the chains and saddles
from the old Hungerford Bridge,
599
00:38:42,200 --> 00:38:46,680
to finish off the Clifton Bridge
as a fitting memorial to Brunel?
600
00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:50,600
The idea took off,
and three years after Brunel's death,
601
00:38:50,760 --> 00:38:52,880
Hawkshaw and Barlow
were put in charge
602
00:38:53,040 --> 00:38:56,480
of completing a new
Clifton Suspension Bridge.
603
00:38:56,640 --> 00:39:00,000
Work on Brunel's "darling"
began once more.
604
00:39:01,720 --> 00:39:03,960
Hawkshaw and Barlow
may not be the names
605
00:39:04,120 --> 00:39:08,840
that most people associate
with the Clifton Suspension Bridge,
606
00:39:09,000 --> 00:39:10,960
but they were absolutely key
607
00:39:11,120 --> 00:39:14,560
in masterminding the structure
we see today.
608
00:39:14,720 --> 00:39:18,080
They acquired Brunel's
initial plans, but times had changed
609
00:39:18,240 --> 00:39:21,720
in the 30 years since work
had first started on the bridge.
610
00:39:21,880 --> 00:39:24,920
Engineers had learnt a great deal
about bridge building
611
00:39:25,080 --> 00:39:29,640
and how dangerous strong winds can be
to a suspension bridge like this one.
612
00:39:29,800 --> 00:39:31,840
These new discoveries
613
00:39:32,000 --> 00:39:36,440
led to Hawkshaw and Barlow
redesigning some parts of the bridge.
614
00:39:38,560 --> 00:39:40,160
Brunel had originally intended
615
00:39:40,320 --> 00:39:43,480
that the bridge be held up
by two chains on each side,
616
00:39:43,640 --> 00:39:45,040
one on top of the other,
617
00:39:45,200 --> 00:39:48,400
but Hawkshaw and Barlow increased
that to three on each side,
618
00:39:48,560 --> 00:39:50,480
making the bridge stronger.
619
00:39:51,760 --> 00:39:54,520
Brunel had also intended
to use wooden struts
620
00:39:54,680 --> 00:39:56,600
to support the road deck,
621
00:39:56,760 --> 00:40:01,360
but again,
these were deemed to be too weak.
622
00:40:01,520 --> 00:40:05,800
So Hawkshaw and Barlow
changed the design,
623
00:40:05,960 --> 00:40:11,160
swapping wood for the wrought iron
lattice work structure we see today.
624
00:40:11,320 --> 00:40:14,320
Now, some engineers say these
design changes have been crucial
625
00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:19,240
in keeping the bridge safe and stable
over the last 150 years.
626
00:40:19,400 --> 00:40:21,800
And had it been built
to Brunel's original design,
627
00:40:21,960 --> 00:40:26,720
it may have come crashing down
into the gorge below long, long ago.
628
00:40:29,280 --> 00:40:32,240
On the 8th of December, 1864,
629
00:40:32,400 --> 00:40:38,520
Hawkshaw and Barlow's reworking of
Brunel's original design, was complete.
630
00:40:38,680 --> 00:40:42,400
Almost 30 years
after construction began,
631
00:40:42,560 --> 00:40:47,840
the Clifton Suspension Bridge
was finally declared open.
632
00:40:48,000 --> 00:40:52,040
Tellingly, none of Brunel's family
attended the ceremony.
633
00:40:54,600 --> 00:40:59,960
But after years of waiting, Bristol
had its bridge across the gorge,
634
00:41:00,120 --> 00:41:04,200
offering road access
between Clifton Down and Leigh Woods
635
00:41:04,360 --> 00:41:05,840
for the first time.
636
00:41:07,400 --> 00:41:09,800
The bridge is Grade I listed
637
00:41:09,960 --> 00:41:13,400
and still has 99%
of its original parts.
638
00:41:13,560 --> 00:41:15,720
They do take some looking after,
though.
639
00:41:15,880 --> 00:41:17,600
You can see
the tower at the far side,
640
00:41:17,760 --> 00:41:20,720
is currently undergoing
a vital maintenance program.
641
00:41:20,880 --> 00:41:23,560
Since the day it opened,
642
00:41:23,720 --> 00:41:27,360
the bridge has relied upon
the support of the people who use it
643
00:41:27,520 --> 00:41:29,080
to fund its upkeep.
644
00:41:30,560 --> 00:41:36,120
The Clifton Suspension Bridge Trust
now oversees its day-to-day running,
645
00:41:36,280 --> 00:41:40,600
and the works program
that ensures that the bridge remains
646
00:41:40,760 --> 00:41:43,760
in the condition
that Brunel intended.
647
00:41:50,880 --> 00:41:54,240
For over 150 years,
the Clifton Suspension bridge
648
00:41:54,400 --> 00:41:58,440
has swayed majestically
high above the Avon Gorge.
649
00:41:59,720 --> 00:42:01,720
Yet, despite the passage of time,
650
00:42:01,880 --> 00:42:06,280
few other bridges on the planet
have come close to rivalling it
651
00:42:06,440 --> 00:42:11,480
in terms of ambition
and sheer engineering brilliance.
652
00:42:12,920 --> 00:42:15,520
So, is this really
Hawkshaw and Barlow's bridge,
653
00:42:15,680 --> 00:42:17,640
just a monument to Brunel?
654
00:42:17,800 --> 00:42:20,160
Some people think so, they point out
655
00:42:20,320 --> 00:42:23,520
it's just the towers and some
of the chains that were Brunel's.
656
00:42:23,680 --> 00:42:25,000
The rest of the structure,
657
00:42:25,160 --> 00:42:28,680
and the fact that it still stands
today, are down to others.
658
00:42:28,840 --> 00:42:31,120
But had it not been for the genius,
659
00:42:31,280 --> 00:42:34,520
the vision and the dogged
determination of one man,
660
00:42:34,680 --> 00:42:37,000
it simply wouldn't have been here
at all.
661
00:42:38,480 --> 00:42:40,600
For me, Brunel deserves his credit,
662
00:42:40,760 --> 00:42:44,480
as the father
of Clifton Suspension Bridge.
663
00:42:47,040 --> 00:42:51,440
Captions by Red Bee Media
SBS Australia 2019
56786
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