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1
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As a boy growing up in Zimbabwe, my
first swim was in the Zambezi River,
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where deadly crocodiles, hippos, and
snakes were as common as cats and dogs.
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00:00:23,500 --> 00:00:27,460
But like most kids, I dreamed of what
was beyond my reach.
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The remote islands in the sea.
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Like some enormous, ancient dinosaur
boulders baking in the tropical sun.
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00:00:39,110 --> 00:00:43,610
I dreamed of seeing the giant tortoises
of the Galapagos Islands.
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Oh my God!
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Every single year, as many as 2 ,000
species are deemed extinct worldwide.
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00:00:54,230 --> 00:00:58,990
But the process we use to declare an
animal extinct is an inexact science.
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00:00:59,390 --> 00:01:01,790
It happens all the time.
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Animals are rediscovered that were
thought to be gone forever.
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My grandfather discovered a coelacanth
66 million years after it was supposed
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be extinct.
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I'm Forrest Galante. I'm a wildlife
biologist, and my life work is searching
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animals that we've given up on.
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On this expedition, I'm living my dream,
traveling to the most remote of the
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Galapagos Islands in the footsteps of
Charles Darwin himself.
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to hike a live volcano in search of the
Fernandina tortoise, an animal that was
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only seen once over a hundred years ago.
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Mysterious signs have been reported, but
searching for it will mean hiking for
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miles through the hottest, most
difficult terrain on the planet.
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The clues are piling up, as this
forbidden island continues to reveal
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Will we make the scientific discovery
for the agent?
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Look at this.
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This is Extinct or Alive.
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The Fernandina Tortoise.
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This is the Galapagos, an archipelago of
nearly 20 volcanic islands
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sitting right on the equator.
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My childhood home, Africa, is often
referred to as the cradle of life.
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These islands are the cradle of our
understanding of it, with endless unique
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species that exist nowhere else on
Earth.
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I've been here for 30 seconds, and I've
already seen Sally Lightfoot crabs,
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marine iguanas, Galapagos.
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sea lions, there's frigates and boobies
in the air, there's fish below us. I
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mean, the place is just teeming with
wildlife.
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It was 1835 when Charles Darwin famously
explored these islands, discovering
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bird and tortoise species that were
unique to each.
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Since these land masses are volcanic,
they emerge from the sea rather than
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splitting off from larger masses.
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That meant each species evolved
independently.
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00:03:22,430 --> 00:03:27,610
And this discovery formed the basis for
Darwin's theory of evolution, the
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foundation of wildlife biology.
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The word Galapagos means turtle in old
Spanish.
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This whole island is based around sea
turtles and tortoises and our
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understanding of their behavior.
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Turtles are aquatic animals, allowing
them to travel great distances.
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Tortoises only live on land, which is
why so many unique species have evolved
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independently.
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In fact, 15 different species of
Galapagos tortoises have been
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only 11 are believed to remain.
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But my mission is to prove the
Fernandina tortoise still lives.
52
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Our path to Fernandina starts here, in
Santa Cruz.
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The flora and fauna of this island are
natural treasure.
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And like any treasure, it's protected.
55
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Just the process of visiting this
incredible island is remarkable.
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From solar -powered airports to chemical
sprays to sniffer dogs for live things
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and seeds, there's so much going on to
keep the restoration of this place and
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the ecology as pristine as it is.
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The tortoises of the Galapagos are the
world's largest.
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weighing nearly half a ton at full size.
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These hulking vertebrates live well over
100 years, and their giant shells
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aren't just for protection.
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They harness the heat of the sun.
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A couple hours of basking can store
enough energy for eight or nine hours of
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foraging for grasses, leaves, and cacti.
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The Fernandina tortoise is named for the
island it comes from.
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Its shell has a unique saddleback shape,
with a lip at the front and the back.
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It's been labeled extinct, but clues
have been seen on the island that defy
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explanation.
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clues that my friend and local biologist
Kale has been discussing for years.
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I've come because I'm looking for the
Fernandina tortoise. Yeah. Because in
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1964, a scientist named Ross Keister got
photographic evidence of bite marks in
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a cactus too high up to be from an
iguana, as well as species which are
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definitely from a tortoise on
Fernandina. Prior to this, the only
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tortoise on record was found by a
scientific expedition in 1906.
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00:06:00,040 --> 00:06:02,820
But more clues have been popping up in
recent years.
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A park ranger in 2014 found tortoise
droppings and a tortoise
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bite mark on a cactus.
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One that was alive in 2014 could
definitely still be alive today. They
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very long lifespan.
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00:06:18,140 --> 00:06:19,140
It's amazing.
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It makes sense now why we got this
permit and why the national parks are
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supporting us so much is because they
believe that there's a good chance that
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the animal could be there.
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jewel of the crown of Galapagos. Sure.
My idol as a biologist is Charles
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And to think, outside of Charles Darwin,
only a handful of local rangers have
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ever stepped foot on Fernandina. But
then it's one of the hardest terrains in
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the world for working, you know? You are
walking over lava flows, and I don't
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know how many times you've been
searching species in an active volcano.
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Zero times.
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Acquiring the permits to access this
island was complicated, since they are
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fiercely scrutinized and rarely granted.
But tomorrow morning, we're stepping
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onto a forbidden island.
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on the expedition I've been waiting a
lifetime for. We're just cruising around
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the southernmost tip of Isabela Island
now, one of the largest islands in the
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Galapagos with five active volcanoes on
it. And as we cruise, there's just life
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everywhere. There's sea lions, sea
turtles, there's blue -footed boobies
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cormorants and penguins. I mean,
everything is out here.
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The fact that nobody goes there, the
fact that people don't step foot there
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much as even once a year, holds out hope
that the animal could be hiding out.
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Almost every biological expedition
through the area has given a clue of the
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existence of this animal.
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If we didn't have the support of the
national parks, we wouldn't be able to
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either. And as we finally close in, the
reality of embarking on an adventure
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on a live volcano is starting to sink
in.
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This place has been described as hell on
earth, and you look out at it.
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00:08:05,230 --> 00:08:10,690
It's like something from out of this
world. These big poxmarked landscapes
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these volcanic craters and these light
patches of green and dark black patches
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of rock.
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To think that anything can live there is
almost beyond comprehension.
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Of all the challenges I've ever done,
this may in fact be the most difficult
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one.
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Coming up... Dude, this is insane.
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Look at that!
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Look at the size of that!
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And later...
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Just spotting Fernandina poking through
the clouds on the horizon.
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Seeing this island appear out of the
mist. It looks like King Kong lives
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and perhaps the King Kong of tortoises
does.
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We're not just looking for an extinct
animal, but one that was only seen once,
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over a hundred years ago.
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Finding the Fernandina tortoise would
mean discovering a missing link in the
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evolution of tortoises, and allow us to
secure funding to essentially bring the
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species back.
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Recent clues suggest there's a chance
it's still here.
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We just arrived at Fernandina, and
that's the Queen Mabel, our home on the
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for the next few days.
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Hola, amigos.
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Welcome to Fernandina Island.
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Gracias.
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Thank you, my friend.
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Washington, nice to meet you. Nice to
meet you, too. Jeffrey.
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Jeffrey Malaga and Washington Tapia are
rangers and scientists here in the
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Galapagos.
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00:10:04,030 --> 00:10:10,110
These two spotted suspicious tortoise
scat in 2009 and 2014, and they've used
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their connections to help us gain access
to this forbidden island.
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When we first wanted to come to
Fernandina, it looked like it was
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because no one's allowed to go to
Fernandina.
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But it's thanks to you guys we've been
granted the permission to go and
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conduct the survey.
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We are waiting for this opportunity for
a long time, and I hope really we can
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find some fantasticus animal.
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The rangers refer to the Fernandina
tortoise as fantasticus, which
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from Latin means imaginary.
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Gives you an idea of how this animal
carries an almost mystical reputation on
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these islands.
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So both of you believe that the
fantasticus is still there? Yes,
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And what kind of population do you think
could still be there? I think very few
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animals. Maybe not fantasticus, but
really I hope these are fantasticus.
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We've got a pretty big hike ahead of us
tomorrow, right?
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The plan is to work more or less five or
six kilometers
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crossing the lava flows in order to get
the forest. And so
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we'll just cover as much ground as we
can for the remainder of the week?
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Start early in the morning and work
until 11.
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When the tortoise is looking for shade.
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So like us, in the midday sun, the
tortoises, they're just hiding.
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Basically don't move because they are
reptiles. Right.
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As the sun rises, I pull the team
together before we head out on the
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our lives.
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All right, guys, it's going to be a
pretty crazy few days.
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That's a hell of a volcano to get up to
find a pink tortoise. I hope you're
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ready.
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We're just pulling up to the beach for
the first time. There's fur seals,
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there's penguins on the rocks, there's
three nesting turtles. I mean, this
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is just full of life.
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But due to tight restrictions in our
permit, my producer and some of the crew
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will have to remain on the boat.
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All right, boys, here we go.
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Ready?
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Do this.
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As soon as my feet hit the volcanic
rock, I'm completely mesmerized by this
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display of untouched nature.
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There's just wildlife everywhere, from
the Sally Lightfoot crabs, Galapagos sea
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lions, and most excitingly for me, this
colony of marine
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iguanas.
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They look like little godzillas with
those spikes on their back.
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Now these are the world's only...
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saltwater -dwelling lizards. These guys
will actually sunbathe up here in the
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hot sun, warm up, and then dive into the
cool ocean, graze on algae, and as soon
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as they start feeling chilly or slow,
they climb back up on the rocks to
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all of this warmth.
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See how they appear to be sneezing? What
that is is excreting saltwater. Because
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these animals spend so much time in the
ocean, they actually ingest tons of
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salt, far more than their bodies can
tolerate.
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So in order to get rid of that salt,
they sneeze it out of their nostrils,
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that mucus is a highly concentrated
saline solution which keeps their bodies
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neutral pH.
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These crabs scurrying everywhere are
called Sally Lightfoot.
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They've been here since Charles Darwin
first landed, and he collected some for
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study.
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They really are light on their feet,
moving in any direction with incredible
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speed and grace.
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The body and legs are flat, allowing
them to squeeze between rocks, feeding
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mostly on algae.
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Plus, they've developed a symbiotic
relationship with the iguanas by eating
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ticks off their scaly back.
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All right, but we've got to keep going.
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Washington, Jeffrey, and my crew came
ashore on one of the few areas this
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00:14:36,210 --> 00:14:37,210
island would allow.
200
00:14:37,530 --> 00:14:42,510
And unfortunately, it's a long way from
the mountain where I suspect the
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00:14:42,510 --> 00:14:44,310
Fernandina tortoise still lives.
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00:14:45,850 --> 00:14:50,070
Hidden from civilization in those little
pockets of green.
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So, we are trekking up the mountain in
massive lava fields in 110
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00:14:57,610 --> 00:15:04,440
degree heat to search for and extinct
tortoise that hasn't been seen in
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00:15:04,440 --> 00:15:05,440
112 years.
206
00:15:05,680 --> 00:15:11,000
We're doing it with an insanely heavy
backpack, tons of scientific equipment,
207
00:15:11,220 --> 00:15:12,720
and a winning attitude.
208
00:15:30,030 --> 00:15:36,530
I'm living my dream of hiking the
Galapagos Islands, searching for the
209
00:15:36,530 --> 00:15:43,270
to be extinct Fernandina tortoise, which
I suspect may be surviving somewhere up
210
00:15:43,270 --> 00:15:45,990
on the active volcano which forms this
island.
211
00:15:47,490 --> 00:15:52,990
I'm nearing a coastline that was too
rocky for our boat, but if I'm hearing
212
00:15:52,990 --> 00:15:55,890
I think I am, it's about to get stupid
cute.
213
00:15:56,330 --> 00:15:58,950
These babies are so cute!
214
00:16:00,130 --> 00:16:02,510
These are baby Galapagos fur seals.
215
00:16:02,770 --> 00:16:06,650
And actually, contrary to their name,
they're not a seal. They're a true sea
216
00:16:06,650 --> 00:16:09,390
lion, but they were named fur seals
based on their coat.
217
00:16:11,610 --> 00:16:16,690
But look at their ridiculously adorable
eyes. They're so cute, they're almost
218
00:16:16,690 --> 00:16:20,990
sad. These animals have absolutely no
fear of human beings.
219
00:16:21,600 --> 00:16:25,860
They have no predators on land. So over
generational time, they have lost the
220
00:16:25,860 --> 00:16:29,880
instinct to run away from things. So
here they sit. This one's going back to
221
00:16:29,880 --> 00:16:32,040
sleep. That one's going over to suckle
for mama.
222
00:16:33,300 --> 00:16:35,620
Look at this guy coming out of the cave.
Look at his face.
223
00:16:36,680 --> 00:16:40,360
I don't want to touch him. You know, I
don't want to, by any chance, give him
224
00:16:40,360 --> 00:16:41,620
anything that I could be carrying.
225
00:16:42,900 --> 00:16:47,300
The same lack of fear led to the death
of hundreds of thousands of giant
226
00:16:47,300 --> 00:16:48,300
tortoises.
227
00:16:49,680 --> 00:16:54,500
Pirates and whalers in the 16th and 17th
centuries scooped them up in droves
228
00:16:54,500 --> 00:17:00,140
once they realized they could keep them
alive on their ships to provide fresh
229
00:17:00,140 --> 00:17:01,840
meat whenever it was needed.
230
00:17:04,240 --> 00:17:09,180
Six different giant tortoise species are
now extinct, but thankfully these
231
00:17:09,180 --> 00:17:14,119
islands are now heavily protected, which
is why this expedition was such a hard
232
00:17:14,119 --> 00:17:17,200
-won opportunity with a short and
difficult time frame.
233
00:17:18,319 --> 00:17:19,640
So it's back to our hike.
234
00:17:23,839 --> 00:17:27,339
So we've just come out of the lava rock
field, and we found an area now with
235
00:17:27,339 --> 00:17:28,098
some sand.
236
00:17:28,099 --> 00:17:30,120
So what we're going to do is actually
build camp here.
237
00:17:30,520 --> 00:17:33,160
There's nowhere with shade on the
island, so this is as good as it's going
238
00:17:33,160 --> 00:17:38,200
get. Pick a nice soft spot like this,
and then make this base camp and hike
239
00:17:38,200 --> 00:17:42,100
here up into the higher up greenery
where the food sources for a tortoise
240
00:17:42,100 --> 00:17:46,560
be. So we'll start building camp right
away, and we'll keep heading up the
241
00:17:46,560 --> 00:17:47,560
mountain.
242
00:17:50,480 --> 00:17:55,020
Our plan is to follow Jeffrey's lead,
since he found the last evidence of a
243
00:17:55,020 --> 00:17:56,020
tortoise here.
244
00:18:00,780 --> 00:18:05,440
Jeffrey, you remember the spot where you
saw the feces? And that was what, five
245
00:18:05,440 --> 00:18:06,159
years ago?
246
00:18:06,160 --> 00:18:07,160
Four years ago.
247
00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:09,340
Yeah, I think that sounds like a good
place to start.
248
00:18:09,660 --> 00:18:16,320
And after maybe to do two grooves, one
go to the left and one go to the right.
249
00:18:16,440 --> 00:18:19,480
Cover more ground, put more feet down.
Yeah. Let's go.
250
00:18:22,660 --> 00:18:27,400
I'm eager to get moving, since we have
plenty of sunlight left, and Jeffrey
251
00:18:27,400 --> 00:18:30,180
tells us it won't take long to get back
to his spot.
252
00:18:50,030 --> 00:18:54,530
He compared the cut here with the iguana
cut.
253
00:18:55,270 --> 00:18:56,330
It's different.
254
00:18:56,570 --> 00:19:00,850
There's iguana, very clear. Small and
straight and not round.
255
00:19:01,110 --> 00:19:02,990
What happened to that sample?
256
00:19:08,580 --> 00:19:15,260
Don't collect because his work at that
moment was only collect plants and don't
257
00:19:15,260 --> 00:19:16,260
have permit.
258
00:19:16,740 --> 00:19:21,020
All right, well, there's obviously no
feces here now, so maybe what we should
259
00:19:21,020 --> 00:19:24,520
is spread out and just cover a bunch of
different ground and we can stay in
260
00:19:24,520 --> 00:19:25,560
touch on our walkie -talkies.
261
00:19:25,820 --> 00:19:26,820
Yeah.
262
00:19:27,160 --> 00:19:31,240
I'm heading east from the site while
Washington and Jeffrey head west.
263
00:19:31,740 --> 00:19:36,900
With so much terrain to cover and few
clues to go on, Who knows how long we'll
264
00:19:36,900 --> 00:19:37,900
be out here.
265
00:19:38,380 --> 00:19:39,600
Tell me again.
266
00:19:40,560 --> 00:19:41,820
Washington, what have you found?
267
00:19:44,240 --> 00:19:45,240
Footprint.
268
00:19:45,480 --> 00:19:47,320
Footprint, maybe, or something.
269
00:19:48,140 --> 00:19:50,360
Guys, guys, come. They've just found
footprints.
270
00:19:51,400 --> 00:19:55,040
If Washington and Jeffrey say they've
found something, I believe it.
271
00:19:55,620 --> 00:19:56,620
Down there.
272
00:19:57,360 --> 00:19:58,360
Climb down.
273
00:20:00,640 --> 00:20:01,640
What'd you see?
274
00:20:02,240 --> 00:20:05,060
Yeah, you can see this trail.
275
00:20:05,840 --> 00:20:08,580
Looks like tortoise because there are
two.
276
00:20:09,220 --> 00:20:12,400
I don't know if you guys can get a shot
of this, but what you see here, you see
277
00:20:12,400 --> 00:20:16,060
front foot, hind foot, front foot, hind
foot, front foot, hind foot. And it's
278
00:20:16,060 --> 00:20:20,280
got the perfect spacing for an animal
about that wide. And it looks like in
279
00:20:20,280 --> 00:20:21,280
drainage.
280
00:20:21,490 --> 00:20:25,050
There's standing water right there.
Yeah, this is the first pool of standing
281
00:20:25,050 --> 00:20:28,310
water we've seen on the entire island.
And of course, there's a set of tracks
282
00:20:28,310 --> 00:20:31,910
leading right up to it. Day one and you
found some tracks. That's pretty good,
283
00:20:31,970 --> 00:20:32,869
my friend.
284
00:20:32,870 --> 00:20:35,390
There's only one tortoise native to this
island.
285
00:20:35,830 --> 00:20:37,910
And it's our Fernandina tortoise.
286
00:20:38,250 --> 00:20:42,390
Right here could have been an extinct
tortoise. And this could be three days
287
00:20:42,390 --> 00:20:46,070
old, three weeks old. It's really hard
to say. But it's not so old because any
288
00:20:46,070 --> 00:20:47,810
big rain would wash this out completely.
289
00:20:50,700 --> 00:20:54,820
To think it's hour four of the survey on
the ground here and we've already found
290
00:20:54,820 --> 00:20:58,100
tracks is pretty exciting. And to have
the tortoise biologists, professionals
291
00:20:58,100 --> 00:21:02,080
who work with tortoises all day and all
night say these are tortoise tracks,
292
00:21:02,240 --> 00:21:05,860
it's got the heart really racing. So
we're just going to keep going, keep
293
00:21:05,860 --> 00:21:07,620
tracking along the ravine and see what
we see.
294
00:21:10,520 --> 00:21:13,680
The tracks Jeffrey and Washington found
give us hope.
295
00:21:14,300 --> 00:21:19,140
But to find a live specimen, we need to
look where it's going, not where it's
296
00:21:19,140 --> 00:21:20,140
already been.
297
00:21:21,450 --> 00:21:24,450
The best way to do that is to find what
it eats.
298
00:21:25,330 --> 00:21:31,530
So this is the first cactus that I've
seen, and it's the wrong kind. It's an
299
00:21:31,530 --> 00:21:34,970
endemic species to the Galapagos, but
we're looking for a puntia, the prickly
300
00:21:34,970 --> 00:21:35,970
pear cactus.
301
00:21:36,510 --> 00:21:40,290
Bite marks on the prickly pear are one
of the clues that led to our search.
302
00:21:41,890 --> 00:21:47,490
Seeing healthy vegetation like this is a
great sign, but I need to get up higher
303
00:21:47,490 --> 00:21:49,210
to scan for the right food source.
304
00:21:49,790 --> 00:21:50,790
Wow, what?
305
00:21:51,209 --> 00:21:52,530
barren island this is.
306
00:21:53,930 --> 00:21:56,930
Let's just see if there are any big
green patches at all out here.
307
00:21:59,370 --> 00:22:01,070
There's a nice dense patch of greenery.
308
00:22:02,130 --> 00:22:04,630
That is the most dense bit of green
we've seen.
309
00:22:05,810 --> 00:22:06,810
There's one right there.
310
00:22:07,430 --> 00:22:08,430
That's a prickly pear.
311
00:22:10,710 --> 00:22:13,190
Can you drop down on it a little more?
It is a prickly pear, right?
312
00:22:13,770 --> 00:22:18,630
Looks like it. Looks like it's kind of
not very tall, but it's got a lot of
313
00:22:18,630 --> 00:22:19,630
branching out.
314
00:22:19,930 --> 00:22:21,050
Go down. Go down more.
315
00:22:21,870 --> 00:22:22,870
That's prickly pear.
316
00:22:23,030 --> 00:22:25,190
That's what we want. Can you mark that?
317
00:22:27,110 --> 00:22:28,470
You can bring it in, Johnny.
318
00:22:28,910 --> 00:22:31,670
That's where we have to go next. There's
a long hike.
319
00:22:32,830 --> 00:22:36,050
On an active volcano, green equals life.
320
00:22:36,650 --> 00:22:41,510
The prickly pear is a great sign, and
I'm finding more signs of life myself.
321
00:22:44,110 --> 00:22:47,730
Look at this stunning large female land
iguana.
322
00:22:48,320 --> 00:22:52,320
This is the closest relative of the
marine iguana, but unlike the cousins
323
00:22:52,320 --> 00:22:56,460
live way back down there on the coast,
these guys will never enter into salt
324
00:22:56,460 --> 00:22:59,620
water. They rely entirely on the
moisture and the vegetation around here.
325
00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:05,620
If there's enough vegetation to keep
iguanas like her alive, it's likely
326
00:23:05,620 --> 00:23:06,680
enough for a tortoise.
327
00:23:07,260 --> 00:23:09,360
Beautiful, beautiful animal. Thank you,
sweetheart.
328
00:23:10,800 --> 00:23:12,000
Ah, so cool.
329
00:23:13,660 --> 00:23:18,410
With little daylight left... Washington
and Jeffrey are leading the crew back to
330
00:23:18,410 --> 00:23:19,410
camp for the night.
331
00:23:19,930 --> 00:23:21,470
But I'm continuing solo.
332
00:23:21,730 --> 00:23:26,370
I can't bring myself to head back before
reaching the cactus we located on the
333
00:23:26,370 --> 00:23:27,370
drone.
334
00:23:29,290 --> 00:23:34,990
Take a look at this. These right here
are cactus fruit. Not only do tortoises
335
00:23:34,990 --> 00:23:40,330
like them, I can get one off without
getting too prickered, but these
336
00:23:40,330 --> 00:23:44,410
are absolutely delicious.
337
00:23:47,350 --> 00:23:51,790
Not only does it give me a little bit of
sugar energy, but it gives me much
338
00:23:51,790 --> 00:23:53,870
-needed moisture. Look at all the
moisture that comes out of that.
339
00:23:54,090 --> 00:23:55,090
See that?
340
00:23:55,130 --> 00:23:56,450
Oh, yeah, that's beautiful.
341
00:23:57,050 --> 00:24:00,310
Unfortunately, I don't see any bite
marks from any tortoises, but there'll
342
00:24:00,310 --> 00:24:01,310
few bite marks from me now.
343
00:24:02,290 --> 00:24:06,870
I'm going to need that little
refreshment for my nearly four -hour
344
00:24:06,870 --> 00:24:07,870
camp.
345
00:24:08,390 --> 00:24:13,910
The heat coming off this island is
indescribable, and Fernandina isn't just
346
00:24:13,910 --> 00:24:14,910
active volcano.
347
00:24:15,210 --> 00:24:20,570
It's the most active volcano in the
Galapagos, with at least 24 known major
348
00:24:20,570 --> 00:24:23,110
eruptions, including one just last year.
349
00:24:23,910 --> 00:24:26,790
Let's hope she stays nice and calm
during our visit.
350
00:24:29,770 --> 00:24:30,990
This is insane.
351
00:24:34,070 --> 00:24:35,570
Are you rolling? Yeah.
352
00:24:36,250 --> 00:24:40,990
With cameras down, I've caught up to
Washington and Jeffrey hiking back.
353
00:24:41,270 --> 00:24:42,350
And maybe...
354
00:24:42,620 --> 00:24:43,700
Just made a discovery.
355
00:24:43,900 --> 00:24:44,900
Tortuga, no?
356
00:24:50,580 --> 00:24:51,140
This
357
00:24:51,140 --> 00:24:58,460
is
358
00:24:58,460 --> 00:24:59,460
insane.
359
00:25:02,980 --> 00:25:04,540
Um, are you rolling? Yeah.
360
00:25:06,300 --> 00:25:09,260
We're on Fernandina Island in the
Galapagos.
361
00:25:10,370 --> 00:25:14,610
standing on an active volcano, where I'm
searching for an extinct giant
362
00:25:14,610 --> 00:25:19,990
tortoise. And while hiking back to camp
for the night, I believe I may have made
363
00:25:19,990 --> 00:25:20,990
a discovery.
364
00:25:21,210 --> 00:25:22,210
Look.
365
00:25:23,990 --> 00:25:24,990
Tortuga, no?
366
00:25:25,030 --> 00:25:26,030
Yeah.
367
00:25:27,130 --> 00:25:29,890
I mean, a piece this old, it could even
be a sea turtle.
368
00:25:30,110 --> 00:25:32,490
No. No, it doesn't. It looks like a
tortoise, doesn't it?
369
00:25:33,030 --> 00:25:36,950
It can take thousands of years for a
shell to fully fossilize.
370
00:25:38,190 --> 00:25:40,930
But no other giant tortoise ever lived
here.
371
00:25:41,330 --> 00:25:44,970
So this is most certainly from the
Fernandina tortoise.
372
00:25:45,910 --> 00:25:47,510
Forrest from Mitch. Forrest from Mitch.
373
00:25:47,730 --> 00:25:48,669
Yeah, go ahead.
374
00:25:48,670 --> 00:25:51,510
Dude, we just found a tortoise fossil on
the island.
375
00:25:51,930 --> 00:25:52,930
Found a what?
376
00:25:53,070 --> 00:25:56,690
We're just walking along in this
rainstorm. We're probably three hours
377
00:25:56,690 --> 00:26:01,810
camp. And I'm kind of picking up random
rocks and kicking dirt over. And I pick
378
00:26:01,810 --> 00:26:05,250
up something and I realize it's got
ridges on it. And turns out it's a
379
00:26:05,250 --> 00:26:07,350
fossilized piece of tortoise shell.
380
00:26:07,880 --> 00:26:09,520
What part of the tortoise is it from?
381
00:26:09,720 --> 00:26:10,720
The shell?
382
00:26:10,940 --> 00:26:12,960
It's shell, yeah. It's from the
plasteron.
383
00:26:13,360 --> 00:26:17,980
While the upper part of the shell is
called the carapace, this fossil is
384
00:26:17,980 --> 00:26:21,380
from the underside, otherwise known as
the plasteron.
385
00:26:21,620 --> 00:26:25,840
This is only the second ever piece of
evidence of a tortoise coming off of
386
00:26:25,840 --> 00:26:30,420
Fernandina, and the first one in 112
years. So this is a huge scientific
387
00:26:30,420 --> 00:26:33,840
accomplishment to actually confirm the
existence of tortoises on this island.
388
00:26:34,410 --> 00:26:35,510
You're excited, right, Washington?
389
00:26:35,950 --> 00:26:36,950
Absolutely.
390
00:26:37,430 --> 00:26:40,350
This is huge, scientifically. We marked
the area.
391
00:26:41,090 --> 00:26:44,530
Washington and Jeffrey were super
excited. Do you want me to give you a
392
00:26:45,630 --> 00:26:48,650
Fortunately, these guys can get a carbon
data. We can find out how old it is.
393
00:26:49,030 --> 00:26:52,730
You know, it doesn't really motivate the
fact that there could be a live one,
394
00:26:52,830 --> 00:26:56,030
but what it does do is confirm that
there were tortoises here at one time.
395
00:27:00,350 --> 00:27:03,110
I finally reached camp for a couple
hours of sleep.
396
00:27:04,560 --> 00:27:07,280
And I'm up again at sunrise to plot our
next move.
397
00:27:08,180 --> 00:27:12,520
I'm scaling the highest point in the
vicinity to see where the most likely
398
00:27:12,520 --> 00:27:13,520
sources are.
399
00:27:14,100 --> 00:27:20,020
Now that we've made it 1 ,400 feet or so
up from sea level, I've spotted a
400
00:27:20,020 --> 00:27:21,500
really dense green patch.
401
00:27:21,700 --> 00:27:24,920
That's the highest concentration of
green vegetation that I've seen on this
402
00:27:24,920 --> 00:27:28,640
island. If there's anywhere there's
going to be a tortoise, it's down there.
403
00:27:30,060 --> 00:27:33,040
Vegetation that thick provides both a
food source...
404
00:27:33,260 --> 00:27:35,040
and natural shielding from detection.
405
00:27:35,780 --> 00:27:39,960
It's why airplanes and helicopters can't
spot tortoises from the air.
406
00:27:42,180 --> 00:27:48,460
It's also a long, brutal hike. I'm
looking at seven hours at least in
407
00:27:48,460 --> 00:27:49,460
heat.
408
00:27:49,800 --> 00:27:52,840
So we've just dropped down now into the
greenery and vegetation.
409
00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:56,880
And for the first time on this island,
it feels like we're in a habitat that
410
00:27:56,880 --> 00:28:00,660
could actually support a tortoise.
There's trees, there's shrubbery,
411
00:28:00,660 --> 00:28:04,960
moisture on the ground. I mean, this is
actually ideal habitat for a tortoise.
412
00:28:06,280 --> 00:28:08,580
Oh, look at this. Look at this.
413
00:28:11,180 --> 00:28:13,780
This is tortoise scat right here.
414
00:28:14,240 --> 00:28:17,660
This is genetic proof that there's a
tortoise on this island.
415
00:28:18,240 --> 00:28:19,640
Oh, there's more up here. Look up here.
416
00:28:21,200 --> 00:28:25,300
Oh, my God. See how this bush is all
flattened? An iguana couldn't do that.
417
00:28:25,340 --> 00:28:28,940
That's from a big tortoise shell
flattening all of this vegetation out
418
00:28:28,940 --> 00:28:29,940
pushing over here.
419
00:28:30,800 --> 00:28:35,260
Look at that. Look at the size of that.
There's only one animal on this entire
420
00:28:35,260 --> 00:28:38,200
island that could do a dropping like
that. It's bigger than my hand.
421
00:28:38,500 --> 00:28:39,500
That right there.
422
00:28:39,700 --> 00:28:45,440
This. This is 100 % genetic proof that
the animal is still alive. This is a
423
00:28:45,440 --> 00:28:47,480
scientific accomplishment to find this.
424
00:28:47,720 --> 00:28:48,720
Unbelievable.
425
00:28:50,600 --> 00:28:52,260
Watcho, watcho, watcho, do you copy?
426
00:28:54,760 --> 00:28:59,580
I've found excrementia, scat, and big
scratch marks from a tortoise here in
427
00:28:59,580 --> 00:29:00,580
green area.
428
00:29:04,140 --> 00:29:08,060
It's such an honor sharing this
experience with two of the world's
429
00:29:08,060 --> 00:29:09,680
experts on giant tortoises.
430
00:29:10,120 --> 00:29:15,040
And maybe the only other people on earth
as excited as I am about poop.
431
00:29:15,440 --> 00:29:16,600
Look, my friend.
432
00:29:17,180 --> 00:29:19,740
Wow. Look at that right there, right
there by your feet.
433
00:29:19,940 --> 00:29:25,640
This is tortoise, absolutely. 100 %
confirmation of tortoise. And I think
434
00:29:25,640 --> 00:29:31,620
was in the highland and come here
because it's completely grass. All the
435
00:29:31,620 --> 00:29:33,740
grasses. Yeah. But that's proof.
436
00:29:33,980 --> 00:29:35,440
100 % confirmation.
437
00:29:35,800 --> 00:29:37,160
Absolutely. No bite.
438
00:29:38,730 --> 00:29:42,590
So what Jeffrey is explaining here is
tortoises don't chew their food. They
439
00:29:42,590 --> 00:29:43,590
take a bite and swallow.
440
00:29:43,710 --> 00:29:46,650
Whereas iguanas, everything else, chew
their food. And you can see all of this
441
00:29:46,650 --> 00:29:47,650
grass is intact.
442
00:29:47,730 --> 00:29:52,290
So it's undeniable, 100 % proof of
tortoises here on Fernandina.
443
00:29:52,670 --> 00:29:53,790
That's not very old.
444
00:29:53,990 --> 00:29:54,990
No.
445
00:29:55,710 --> 00:29:58,150
This gap needs to be collected and
studied.
446
00:29:59,070 --> 00:30:02,430
But it also means there's a live
tortoise nearby.
447
00:30:03,150 --> 00:30:04,630
There's a tortoise around here now.
448
00:30:04,870 --> 00:30:08,110
I think so. What I'm going to do is take
a sample.
449
00:30:08,520 --> 00:30:11,920
I know without any doubt that this is
the proof that we've been looking for.
450
00:30:12,000 --> 00:30:14,980
There are indeed tortoises here on
Fernandina.
451
00:30:15,660 --> 00:30:21,320
In the center is fresh, wet material,
and that material, uncontaminated, will
452
00:30:21,320 --> 00:30:22,320
contain DNA.
453
00:30:23,600 --> 00:30:29,200
This right here is undeniably the most
important, most beautiful poop I've ever
454
00:30:29,200 --> 00:30:31,200
found. This is incredible.
455
00:30:31,520 --> 00:30:37,720
If it's recent enough and we find any
other sign, I may be able to track it.
456
00:30:39,400 --> 00:30:43,120
We can't even continue on one thing.
They've just found a tortoise bed right
457
00:30:43,120 --> 00:30:46,000
over here. I mean, there's proof in
every direction.
458
00:30:49,380 --> 00:30:53,780
This is a tortoise bedding area. He's
dug down to cool off into this muddy
459
00:30:53,960 --> 00:30:55,700
You can see there's footprints right
here.
460
00:30:55,960 --> 00:30:58,400
You can still see it's wet. I mean, it's
here.
461
00:30:58,720 --> 00:31:00,680
There are tortoises here on Fernandina.
462
00:31:03,100 --> 00:31:04,100
Holy!
463
00:31:06,420 --> 00:31:09,540
Wow! The tortoise is right here! Why?
464
00:31:45,100 --> 00:31:46,100
Look at this!
465
00:31:46,500 --> 00:31:48,720
Oh my God!
466
00:31:49,080 --> 00:31:50,420
We found her!
467
00:31:51,340 --> 00:31:55,840
We found her!
468
00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:59,060
After 112 years!
469
00:31:59,320 --> 00:32:05,000
Wow! I can't imagine what she's
thinking.
470
00:32:06,220 --> 00:32:09,380
Since we are the first humans she has
ever seen.
471
00:32:16,110 --> 00:32:17,790
Oh, me too. I want to give her a kiss.
472
00:32:18,210 --> 00:32:20,070
It's a very old female.
473
00:32:20,550 --> 00:32:25,350
I'm in the Galapagos Islands, living out
a childhood dream of studying
474
00:32:25,350 --> 00:32:29,490
tortoises. And we've just found what
nobody believed we could.
475
00:32:29,710 --> 00:32:33,730
The greatest Galapagos discovery in over
100 years.
476
00:32:34,030 --> 00:32:38,930
A live specimen of the previously
extinct Fernandina tortoise.
477
00:32:39,230 --> 00:32:42,850
But you can see she's saddlebacked in
shape. Yes. She lives at lower
478
00:32:43,130 --> 00:32:45,770
There's less to eat here, so it makes
sense that she's smaller.
479
00:32:45,970 --> 00:32:52,670
You can see this plate, and you compare
with the pictures of the male in the
480
00:32:52,670 --> 00:32:58,410
cast. It's the same form. Exactly. This
very unique ridging, the pinch at the
481
00:32:58,410 --> 00:33:02,290
hind, the pinch at the front. Completely
unique tortoise. No other species on
482
00:33:02,290 --> 00:33:04,230
Earth has this shell shape. Absolutely.
483
00:33:04,810 --> 00:33:06,350
Oh, my God.
484
00:33:11,180 --> 00:33:15,020
What just happened is beyond words,
beyond comprehension.
485
00:33:15,340 --> 00:33:21,540
It is undeniably the largest discovery
for turtles and tortoises in, well,
486
00:33:21,620 --> 00:33:26,240
probably 112 years since the one and
only Fernandina specimen was collected.
487
00:33:27,660 --> 00:33:32,820
I'm beyond words, honestly. The emotions
that I'm feeling, the amount of
488
00:33:32,820 --> 00:33:35,980
excitement, the fact that it's a
tortoise, and turtles and tortoises are
489
00:33:35,980 --> 00:33:37,340
my favorite animals in the world.
490
00:33:38,170 --> 00:33:43,790
It's hard to actually articulate how
exciting this is, but this right here is
491
00:33:43,790 --> 00:33:44,950
Fernandina Island tortoise.
492
00:33:47,530 --> 00:33:52,450
So now what we're doing is bringing our
fantastic specimen into a nice cool
493
00:33:52,450 --> 00:33:57,530
area, and Washington, Jeffrey, and
myself are going to conduct all the
494
00:33:57,530 --> 00:33:58,530
science.
495
00:33:59,390 --> 00:34:03,810
Funny to think that just two hours ago I
collected this piece of scat and
496
00:34:03,810 --> 00:34:06,750
thought this was the most incredible
scientific finding.
497
00:34:07,530 --> 00:34:11,949
Basically of my life, and now, sitting
here, is the most important find of my
498
00:34:11,949 --> 00:34:13,850
life. So, you want to do measurements
first?
499
00:34:14,270 --> 00:34:19,550
Yeah. I've sent half the crew down the
mountain to get the boat ready to
500
00:34:19,550 --> 00:34:21,409
transport this incredible tortoise.
501
00:34:22,170 --> 00:34:26,889
But before we carry her down, we're
quickly collecting measurements and even
502
00:34:26,889 --> 00:34:28,330
taking a small blood sample.
503
00:34:28,690 --> 00:34:32,550
It's the only animal of its kind in
existence, so to have the genetic
504
00:34:32,550 --> 00:34:33,690
is hugely important.
505
00:34:35,909 --> 00:34:39,310
Yeah. Now what we're doing is putting a
pit tag in the animal.
506
00:34:42,730 --> 00:34:43,969
Tortoise barely feels it.
507
00:34:44,530 --> 00:34:45,530
Tag's inserted.
508
00:34:48,850 --> 00:34:51,010
Activated. And she's done.
509
00:34:54,350 --> 00:35:00,070
And just like that, the first scientific
data on Chelonia fantasticus has been
510
00:35:00,070 --> 00:35:04,790
completed. So the emotional wildlife
lover in me.
511
00:35:05,540 --> 00:35:09,940
wants to leave her here. She's lived
here for 120 years, and this is her
512
00:35:10,400 --> 00:35:14,520
But the scientist in me, the
conservationist, the person that knows
513
00:35:14,520 --> 00:35:17,860
for the species, knows that she has to
be taken to a facility.
514
00:35:18,260 --> 00:35:22,080
What that will do is secure millions of
dollars in funding to send return
515
00:35:22,080 --> 00:35:25,660
efforts to find a male, compatible male
that she can breed with and bring the
516
00:35:25,660 --> 00:35:30,180
species population way up. So it's the
right thing to do.
517
00:35:31,600 --> 00:35:36,120
Let's go to the coast. Take her back to
the boat. Yes. So now what the porters
518
00:35:36,120 --> 00:35:40,420
and I in Washington are doing is we're
basically building a tortoise stretcher.
519
00:35:40,780 --> 00:35:44,620
As rudimentary and crude as this may
seem, this is actually the preferred
520
00:35:44,620 --> 00:35:45,740
for moving tortoises.
521
00:35:45,940 --> 00:35:49,240
Puts no stress on them. It doesn't make
them go upside down or backwards.
522
00:35:49,660 --> 00:35:53,720
Instead, what it does is let them stay
horizontal and just stay out in the air
523
00:35:53,720 --> 00:35:54,720
while being carried.
524
00:35:56,040 --> 00:36:00,320
It is hugely important to have her
breeding, not just here, but on a
525
00:36:00,320 --> 00:36:04,960
island, because this is the most active
volcano in the Galapagos. At any time,
526
00:36:05,000 --> 00:36:09,260
the volcano could erupt, a single sweep
of lava could cover this, and there'd be
527
00:36:09,260 --> 00:36:11,000
no more animals in this singular
population.
528
00:36:12,029 --> 00:36:16,150
So, by taking her out of here, putting
her in a breeding facility in Santa Cruz
529
00:36:16,150 --> 00:36:20,150
where she can be monitored and
regulated, no poaching can occur,
530
00:36:20,150 --> 00:36:24,050
breeding can occur, and 20 or 30 years
from now when she's had several hundred
531
00:36:24,050 --> 00:36:28,170
offspring, they can be put right back
here and let the population continue to
532
00:36:28,170 --> 00:36:29,170
expand.
533
00:36:29,290 --> 00:36:30,610
Off we go towards the beach.
534
00:36:41,560 --> 00:36:47,040
Forrest is very much a turtle, tortoise
guy. He loves turtles and tortoises. He
535
00:36:47,040 --> 00:36:49,680
has, I don't know, how many dozen at his
house.
536
00:36:49,920 --> 00:36:54,900
Mitch, so we're going to go to the area
that they're at.
537
00:36:55,260 --> 00:36:58,840
We've got to get the drone out to look
for them so we know where. To try to
538
00:36:58,840 --> 00:37:01,400
them. To find a place on this shore.
Yeah.
539
00:37:02,020 --> 00:37:03,020
Copy.
540
00:37:04,800 --> 00:37:08,700
This discovery means everyone on the
team shifts into a new role.
541
00:37:28,069 --> 00:37:31,250
I've made contact.
542
00:37:31,810 --> 00:37:34,970
Now we just need a good spot on the
shore to make the transfer.
543
00:37:35,690 --> 00:37:37,950
We're getting picked up in the
inflatable dinghy.
544
00:37:38,360 --> 00:37:42,100
which will then take our Fernandina
tortoise to our boat for safe travel.
545
00:37:43,060 --> 00:37:46,880
We've made it. This is the most precious
cargo I've ever hiked. And we just
546
00:37:46,880 --> 00:37:49,460
hiked through all the way down this
mountain out of a volcano.
547
00:37:50,540 --> 00:37:53,500
Look at the way these waves are crashing
against the rock.
548
00:37:54,500 --> 00:38:00,060
This is looking very risky for my crew,
as I once again ask them to put danger
549
00:38:00,060 --> 00:38:03,400
aside in order to try and save an
extinct species.
550
00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:06,140
It looks like it's going to be hairy
getting on the boat.
551
00:38:07,920 --> 00:38:13,420
Due to these conditions, this transfer
must happen very quickly, and no one has
552
00:38:13,420 --> 00:38:14,580
any room for error.
553
00:38:20,640 --> 00:38:22,640
I've just
554
00:38:22,640 --> 00:38:33,360
made
555
00:38:33,360 --> 00:38:34,660
the discovery of my life.
556
00:38:37,190 --> 00:38:44,030
We found the Fernandina tortoise, last
seen 113 years ago, here
557
00:38:44,030 --> 00:38:46,630
on an active volcano in the Galapagos
Islands.
558
00:38:48,830 --> 00:38:53,570
Now we're attempting to take her off
-island to a safe facility that can
559
00:38:53,570 --> 00:38:55,450
preserve and repopulate the species.
560
00:39:07,050 --> 00:39:11,550
This is her first time leaving the
island, and as hard as it is for me to
561
00:39:11,550 --> 00:39:16,290
moving her, the role she'll play in the
conservation of her species is
562
00:39:16,290 --> 00:39:17,290
monumental.
563
00:39:17,950 --> 00:39:23,190
This is a big boat ride for her, and for
all of us. And over, and over, and
564
00:39:23,190 --> 00:39:24,870
down. Next level, next level.
565
00:39:29,610 --> 00:39:31,290
An extinct animal on the boat.
566
00:39:31,690 --> 00:39:32,690
How you feeling, buddy?
567
00:39:33,110 --> 00:39:35,610
Exhausted, emotional, happy.
568
00:39:37,270 --> 00:39:41,790
slightly sad for bringing her out of the
wild, but way more joyous for knowing
569
00:39:41,790 --> 00:39:43,790
that we potentially could save the
species.
570
00:39:47,930 --> 00:39:52,910
She's the rarest animal on Earth, one of
a kind, and we've named her Fern after
571
00:39:52,910 --> 00:39:53,910
her home.
572
00:39:54,410 --> 00:39:58,270
Shortly after dawn, Fern is on the last
leg of her journey to the breeding
573
00:39:58,270 --> 00:40:03,270
center. We're on our way there now. The
plan is she has an isolated home where
574
00:40:03,270 --> 00:40:04,450
she will be kept in quarantine.
575
00:40:04,790 --> 00:40:06,490
She'll be fed and fattened up.
576
00:40:06,780 --> 00:40:09,000
The thing is, Fern is very underweight
currently.
577
00:40:09,320 --> 00:40:13,980
What's amazing about tortoise
reproduction is if she's had a male
578
00:40:13,980 --> 00:40:19,280
last 15 or so years, she may actually
have the ability to hold viable sperm
579
00:40:19,280 --> 00:40:24,340
within her, and when she fattens up and
is not stressed environmentally, she
580
00:40:24,340 --> 00:40:28,880
could actually produce fertile eggs that
would hatch into baby Fernandina Island
581
00:40:28,880 --> 00:40:29,880
tortoises.
582
00:40:32,280 --> 00:40:35,480
We've arranged for a national parks boat
to take us to shore.
583
00:40:37,140 --> 00:40:41,200
Once there, she's just a short drive
away from the Fausto Lorena breeding
584
00:40:41,200 --> 00:40:42,640
center. All right.
585
00:40:43,080 --> 00:40:44,080
Here we go.
586
00:40:45,100 --> 00:40:46,100
This is her pen?
587
00:40:46,500 --> 00:40:47,500
Yeah. Okay.
588
00:40:48,140 --> 00:40:51,500
Just right here? Yeah. Lots of space.
589
00:40:52,360 --> 00:40:54,000
Fantastic. Fantastic.
590
00:40:54,480 --> 00:40:56,000
Good job, my friend.
591
00:40:56,600 --> 00:40:57,600
Well done.
592
00:40:57,760 --> 00:40:59,240
Well done, Wacho. Well done.
593
00:41:00,340 --> 00:41:03,560
And this is it. She's in her new home.
Everybody's studying her. Everybody's
594
00:41:03,560 --> 00:41:06,760
fascinated. This is the rarest animal on
Earth.
595
00:41:07,260 --> 00:41:10,640
There's one known individual in
existence, and she's sitting right here,
596
00:41:10,740 --> 00:41:15,280
healthy, safe, protected, and taken care
of by all of these great national parks
597
00:41:15,280 --> 00:41:18,900
people. Soon there will be a return
expedition to look for a male. She'll be
598
00:41:18,900 --> 00:41:21,520
genetically tested to see if she has
fertile sperm within her.
599
00:41:22,200 --> 00:41:26,020
Everything is lining up for the ongoing
existence of this animal. It's the
600
00:41:26,020 --> 00:41:29,500
greatest accomplishment of my scientific
life. It's the most fantastic thing
601
00:41:29,500 --> 00:41:32,180
that I've ever been a part of, and I
couldn't be happier.
602
00:41:32,400 --> 00:41:33,660
It's a dream come true.
51992
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