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In the far reaches of the Pacific
Ocean...
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00:00:14,440 --> 00:00:18,200
lies a land cut-off from the rest of
the world...
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00:00:20,040 --> 00:00:23,000
since the time of the dinosaurs.
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00:00:30,880 --> 00:00:35,400
After 80 million years of isolation,
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00:00:35,400 --> 00:00:38,000
nature has gone its own way.
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00:00:41,920 --> 00:00:46,120
In this lost world, life plays by
different rules.
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00:00:50,040 --> 00:00:51,960
Penguins in the forests...
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00:00:53,720 --> 00:00:55,280
parrots in the snow...
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and predators from prehistory.
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00:01:04,120 --> 00:01:09,120
Their lives are dominated by the
most powerful forces on earth.
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00:01:11,600 --> 00:01:15,880
When humans finally arrived, they
discovered
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00:01:15,880 --> 00:01:21,680
nowhere is more strange and
mysterious than New Zealand.
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00:01:38,400 --> 00:01:42,000
At the extreme southern tip of
New Zealand,
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00:01:42,000 --> 00:01:46,440
the influence of the South Pole
is surprisingly clear.
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00:01:50,760 --> 00:01:54,360
The Aurora Australis,
the Southern Lights.
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00:02:02,440 --> 00:02:06,960
At 47 degrees south,
the next stop is Antarctica.
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00:02:11,880 --> 00:02:18,080
At these latitudes in summer,
the nights don't last long.
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00:02:18,080 --> 00:02:21,440
So there is only a brief window
of opportunity
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00:02:21,440 --> 00:02:24,720
for the creatures who hunt by night.
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00:02:32,640 --> 00:02:36,360
Like this mysterious beachcomber.
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00:02:36,360 --> 00:02:39,480
He's only found in New Zealand
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00:02:39,480 --> 00:02:41,720
and very rarely seen.
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00:02:46,120 --> 00:02:50,960
He has stubby wings,
but he's too heavy to fly.
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00:02:55,520 --> 00:02:59,320
A wild southern brown kiwi.
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00:03:08,200 --> 00:03:13,880
Just after sunset, the kiwi hits the
beach in search of sand-hoppers.
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00:03:22,960 --> 00:03:27,400
He relies on his sense of smell and
sniffs out the bugs through
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00:03:27,400 --> 00:03:30,640
nostrils at the end of his bill.
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00:03:35,000 --> 00:03:39,560
Kiwis come out at night to avoid
daytime predators.
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00:03:39,560 --> 00:03:42,160
So it's rare to get such a good look
at them.
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00:03:54,680 --> 00:03:59,560
Cold nights and meagre pickings mean
that as the first rays of the sun
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appear, this kiwi doesn't run and
hide.
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He keeps hunting into dawn.
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00:04:15,880 --> 00:04:21,160
The conditions here force the
southern brown kiwi to stay out in
daylight.
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00:04:34,200 --> 00:04:38,840
To live this far south, it has had
to completely alter its normal
routine.
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00:04:50,720 --> 00:04:55,200
Every creature who lives in this
wild and remote part of the world
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00:04:55,200 --> 00:04:59,520
must come up with radical solutions
to the challenges of living here.
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00:05:04,240 --> 00:05:09,520
New Zealand's closeness to the pole
makes it vulnerable to storms,
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particularly in the south, where
they say you can feel the icy breath
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00:05:14,480 --> 00:05:16,160
of Antarctica.
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00:05:31,880 --> 00:05:37,080
New Zealand's southern beaches are a
refuge for one incredible
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00:05:37,080 --> 00:05:39,200
subantarctic pioneer.
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00:05:50,280 --> 00:05:52,360
A New Zealand sea lion.
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00:05:54,680 --> 00:05:58,560
Possibly the rarest sea lion in the
world.
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00:06:00,160 --> 00:06:04,120
Almost hunted to extinction
150 years ago.
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00:06:12,560 --> 00:06:18,800
But then, in 1993, one female
returned and gave birth.
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00:06:20,760 --> 00:06:24,600
Over 20 years on,
their descendants are still here.
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00:06:27,240 --> 00:06:31,960
An adult male can weigh about as
much as four grown men.
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00:06:34,120 --> 00:06:37,600
It can take eight years to reach
maturity.
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00:06:39,160 --> 00:06:42,680
SEA LION ROARS
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00:06:45,560 --> 00:06:50,160
Adult male sea lions are the rugby
front row of the South Island.
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00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:58,080
During the breeding season, the
beaches become their battleground.
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00:07:00,960 --> 00:07:05,320
Only the biggest and toughest
will win the right to breed.
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00:07:12,160 --> 00:07:17,240
A female returning from a three-day
fishing trip doesn't want to attract
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00:07:17,240 --> 00:07:18,880
the males' attention.
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00:07:29,320 --> 00:07:32,520
She has something else on her mind.
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00:07:43,040 --> 00:07:47,720
She might be able to dive deeper
than any other sea lion on earth,
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00:07:47,720 --> 00:07:53,680
but hauling 160kg up over a
sand dune is more of a struggle.
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00:07:53,680 --> 00:07:56,520
SEA LION CALLS
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00:08:20,240 --> 00:08:24,280
There is a reason for all this
effort.
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00:08:24,280 --> 00:08:26,920
She's searching for something
precious.
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00:08:38,680 --> 00:08:41,760
The centre of her world.
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Her pup.
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00:08:45,160 --> 00:08:47,280
Only a couple of weeks old.
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00:08:55,240 --> 00:09:01,520
By hiding her baby in the woods, she
avoids the bullyboys on the beach.
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00:09:07,840 --> 00:09:12,040
In the safety of the forest,
he can suckle in peace.
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00:09:16,680 --> 00:09:18,880
All along the southern coast,
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00:09:18,880 --> 00:09:22,080
sea creatures come ashore to find
shelter.
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00:09:29,440 --> 00:09:34,880
But living on land when you're meant
to be at sea can bring problems of
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its own.
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00:09:45,520 --> 00:09:47,360
On the Snares Islands,
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00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:50,040
penguins build their nests amongst
the trees
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00:09:50,040 --> 00:09:53,400
because it's a safe place to breed.
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00:09:53,400 --> 00:09:57,040
But protection in these forests
comes at a price.
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00:09:57,040 --> 00:09:59,880
BIRDS SQUAWK
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00:10:12,160 --> 00:10:17,320
Thousands of tiny feet turn the
nesting ground into a quagmire.
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00:10:24,840 --> 00:10:28,120
They get covered in sticky mud,
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not just their feet, but their
precious feathers, too.
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00:10:34,480 --> 00:10:39,000
The mud not only ruins their looks,
it could threaten their lives.
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00:10:42,880 --> 00:10:46,200
Their densely-packed plumage
is their survival suit.
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00:10:48,640 --> 00:10:50,480
If their feathers are dirty,
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they won't insulate as effectively
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00:10:53,080 --> 00:10:56,760
and the penguins will lose vital
energy.
83
00:11:01,200 --> 00:11:04,400
These are coastlines where risks
cannot be taken.
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00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:10,240
So before he dives headfirst into
the sea,
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00:11:10,240 --> 00:11:13,760
this penguin checks
into the penguin spa.
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00:11:15,680 --> 00:11:20,480
The rock pool gives him a chance to
wash and scrub up in safety.
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00:11:32,440 --> 00:11:34,280
He combs through his feathers...
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00:11:37,240 --> 00:11:39,960
then waterproofs them with a wax
from an oil gland
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00:11:39,960 --> 00:11:42,000
at the base of his tail.
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00:11:44,520 --> 00:11:47,600
Not only does this wax
help him stay warm,
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00:11:47,600 --> 00:11:51,440
it will also help glide through
the water more efficiently.
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00:11:55,520 --> 00:12:00,680
Insulated and waterproof once more,
he's now dressed for dinner.
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00:12:08,640 --> 00:12:13,280
Ready to tackle the wild
ocean beyond.
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00:12:33,480 --> 00:12:36,160
The waters surrounding
the South Island
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are some of the most
brutal on earth.
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00:12:42,960 --> 00:12:45,040
These are the Roaring Forties.
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00:12:46,840 --> 00:12:49,800
Gale force winds rage year-round,
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00:12:49,800 --> 00:12:52,120
churning up seas that batter the
shores.
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00:12:57,320 --> 00:13:00,880
Fierce weather systems can arrive
without warning.
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00:13:04,320 --> 00:13:07,000
Open ocean swells and storms charge
up
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00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:11,800
from Antarctica and create massive
waves up to eight metres high.
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00:13:16,120 --> 00:13:17,880
It's always a challenge.
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00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:21,440
The challenge of being able work the
area.
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00:13:21,440 --> 00:13:23,680
You just have to be prepared all the
time.
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00:13:25,920 --> 00:13:30,640
Tackling the tempest is a regular
occurrence for Peter Young.
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00:13:30,640 --> 00:13:32,400
It's his commute to work.
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00:13:36,640 --> 00:13:40,640
But the view from his workplace
makes up for it.
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00:13:40,640 --> 00:13:44,320
One of the most spectacular sights
in New Zealand -
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Fiordland.
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00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:03,520
This labyrinth of steep-sided fjords
and inlets offers shelter to a whole
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host of marine life.
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00:14:15,960 --> 00:14:21,360
For bottlenosed dolphins,
it's a place to rest and feed.
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00:14:25,800 --> 00:14:29,920
And a nursery, where baby fur seals
can build up their strength.
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00:14:34,480 --> 00:14:37,440
Peter is a ranger for the
Department of Conservation.
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00:14:38,920 --> 00:14:41,520
He monitors and protects
the wildlife here.
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00:14:43,560 --> 00:14:47,320
The diversity of Fiordland
is something I love.
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00:14:47,320 --> 00:14:49,400
It's something that not a lot of
people
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in the world will ever get to do.
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00:14:52,720 --> 00:14:55,760
You sort of get a 40-tonne whale
just come cruising up.
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00:14:57,800 --> 00:14:59,800
Right beside the boat, rolling over,
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00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:02,640
exposing their bellies to you
as if they want a bit of a scratch.
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00:15:10,800 --> 00:15:14,440
Fiordland is the jewel
of the South Island.
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00:15:17,240 --> 00:15:23,240
At almost 5,000 square miles, it's
New Zealand's biggest national park.
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00:15:39,560 --> 00:15:43,240
This dramatic landscape was gouged
out by glaciers
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00:15:43,240 --> 00:15:45,720
during the last ice age.
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00:15:48,440 --> 00:15:51,880
Creating incredibly
deep saltwater inlets.
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00:15:55,320 --> 00:15:58,520
Here, two distinct worlds meet.
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00:16:00,120 --> 00:16:03,720
Fresh water from the land
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00:16:03,720 --> 00:16:06,400
mixes with saltwater from the
ocean...
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00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:11,760
to create a unique ecosystem.
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00:16:22,120 --> 00:16:25,800
Fresh water arrives here from the
forests,
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rich in tannins from rotting
vegetation,
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00:16:29,320 --> 00:16:31,320
turning it into a dark tea.
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00:16:40,560 --> 00:16:45,400
It pours off these cliffs to mix
with the saltwater below.
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00:17:00,960 --> 00:17:03,400
Less dense than saltwater,
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00:17:03,400 --> 00:17:08,680
the stained fresh water floats above
and blocks out the light...
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00:17:15,480 --> 00:17:20,160
creating a dark and cold
underwater world.
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00:17:23,480 --> 00:17:28,320
Here, creatures that normally live
in the inky depths of the ocean make
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00:17:28,320 --> 00:17:30,680
their home much nearer to the
surface.
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00:17:39,760 --> 00:17:43,920
Black corals normally grow below
100 metres, but here,
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00:17:43,920 --> 00:17:47,320
underwater forests of them
thrive in the shallows.
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00:17:53,720 --> 00:17:58,280
It may be known as black coral, but
it appears white as it's covered in
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00:17:58,280 --> 00:18:00,920
millions of tiny coral polyps,
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00:18:00,920 --> 00:18:02,960
all feeding in the current.
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00:18:04,800 --> 00:18:08,240
Black corals are the slowest-growing
corals in the world.
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00:18:09,800 --> 00:18:13,360
But here they grow a remarkable
two centimetres a year.
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00:18:15,360 --> 00:18:19,280
To create a forest of them
can take hundreds of years.
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00:18:22,720 --> 00:18:26,240
Prehistoric shellfish, brachiopods,
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00:18:26,240 --> 00:18:29,320
are relics from the time of the
dinosaurs.
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00:18:29,320 --> 00:18:33,960
They, too, have crept up the cliff
walls and into the shallows.
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00:18:39,080 --> 00:18:43,040
A unique mix of marine life has
adapted to live here thanks
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00:18:43,040 --> 00:18:47,320
to the extraordinary way
fresh and saltwater meet.
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00:19:00,480 --> 00:19:05,560
The south of New Zealand is one
of the wettest places on earth.
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00:19:14,040 --> 00:19:17,560
Freezing winds from Antarctica
collide with warm wet weather
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from the north.
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00:19:20,880 --> 00:19:25,280
Huge volumes of moist air are forced
to rise over the South Island's
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00:19:25,280 --> 00:19:30,520
mountains, where they cool
and form vast banks of cloud.
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00:19:35,480 --> 00:19:39,120
The South Island's west coast and
forests are drenched with rain for
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00:19:39,120 --> 00:19:41,360
more than 200 days a year.
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00:19:45,680 --> 00:19:50,640
The water sustains vast swathes
of temperate rainforest.
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Forests brought to life
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by New Zealand's bizarre and
beautiful birds.
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00:20:04,120 --> 00:20:08,640
Where tuis' complex calls echo
through the canopy.
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00:20:08,640 --> 00:20:12,120
TUIS SING
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00:20:12,120 --> 00:20:16,520
Bellbirds trade nectar
for a dusting of blue pollen.
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00:20:19,280 --> 00:20:24,160
And flightless weka skulk in the
undergrowth.
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00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:38,440
It is the perfect environment for
moisture-loving mosses and ferns.
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00:20:50,560 --> 00:20:52,120
Underneath them,
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00:20:52,120 --> 00:20:58,560
a humid forest floor of mucus
and slime with a deadly secret.
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00:21:09,320 --> 00:21:14,400
It comes to life at twilight
when the hunters come out.
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00:21:17,840 --> 00:21:22,680
Their lairs are in dark and damp
forest overhangs where the extreme
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moisture is put to good use.
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00:21:30,240 --> 00:21:35,320
These silken threads are the work
of a tiny larva of a gnat.
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00:21:36,960 --> 00:21:41,760
Beautiful though they may appear,
the threads have a sinister purpose.
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00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:46,720
The larvae use them to trap
their prey.
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00:21:55,280 --> 00:21:59,320
Droplets of sticky mucus work
like spider webs,
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00:21:59,320 --> 00:22:02,320
waiting to catch hold of flying
insects.
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Mayflies are a particular favourite.
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00:22:22,760 --> 00:22:24,600
As darkness settles,
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00:22:24,600 --> 00:22:30,360
the genius of their deadly traps is
revealed in all its beautiful glory.
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00:22:38,560 --> 00:22:42,720
Gnat larvae are also known as
glow-worms.
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00:22:44,520 --> 00:22:46,760
The bioluminescence is generated
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00:22:46,760 --> 00:22:49,480
by a chemical reaction within their
tail.
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00:22:53,800 --> 00:22:58,080
Creating an irresistible lure.
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00:23:04,160 --> 00:23:08,560
The hungrier they are,
the brighter they glow,
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00:23:08,560 --> 00:23:11,320
drawing in victims like moths
to a flame.
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00:23:13,560 --> 00:23:16,240
And this glow-worm isn't alone.
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00:23:27,680 --> 00:23:29,560
Hundreds live side-by-side.
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00:23:44,560 --> 00:23:50,080
It's almost as if together
they create their own starscape,
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00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:54,600
confusing navigating insects
and luring them to their doom.
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00:24:27,760 --> 00:24:30,560
When the air itself becomes
saturated
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00:24:30,560 --> 00:24:33,120
and the temperature is just right,
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00:24:33,120 --> 00:24:35,880
rare giants emerge.
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00:24:52,520 --> 00:24:55,240
A powelliphanta snail.
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00:24:55,240 --> 00:24:57,760
It can grow to the size of
a man's fist.
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00:25:06,920 --> 00:25:11,560
So rare, they can only be filmed
in captivity
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00:25:11,560 --> 00:25:14,240
where their extraordinary behaviour
is revealed.
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00:25:17,000 --> 00:25:20,720
It's still a mystery as to exactly
how they track down their food.
199
00:25:22,960 --> 00:25:26,120
But one thing is for sure,
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00:25:26,120 --> 00:25:28,640
this snail has unusual tastes.
201
00:25:30,680 --> 00:25:33,320
And revolting table manners.
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00:26:25,800 --> 00:26:30,600
Its mouth envelops and suffocates
the earthworm.
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00:26:40,080 --> 00:26:42,640
It's sucked down like spaghetti.
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00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:07,720
For anything bigger, it's got 6,000
teeth ready to shred the next meal.
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00:27:12,600 --> 00:27:15,160
In this supersaturated environment,
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00:27:15,160 --> 00:27:20,080
this specialised snail is the
ultimate predator.
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00:27:21,680 --> 00:27:27,120
BIRDS SING
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00:27:31,720 --> 00:27:34,160
Water dominates the land.
209
00:27:39,080 --> 00:27:43,720
It thunders off the mountains,
creating raging white-water rapids.
210
00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:48,600
Some of the South Island's mountain
rivers flow
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at over 60,000 gallons a second.
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00:27:55,320 --> 00:27:58,000
This is no place to bring up a
family.
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00:28:01,520 --> 00:28:04,640
But these parents have no choice.
214
00:28:18,840 --> 00:28:22,920
Fortunately, blue duck chicks
are born ready.
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00:28:33,240 --> 00:28:35,720
They have to navigate the churning
currents
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00:28:35,720 --> 00:28:38,240
to reach the best feeding grounds.
217
00:28:48,600 --> 00:28:53,120
And like their parents, they must
dabble to feed.
218
00:28:53,120 --> 00:28:55,720
The tastiest food is on the rocks.
219
00:28:59,920 --> 00:29:03,160
Blue duck bills are specially-shaped
to scrape
220
00:29:03,160 --> 00:29:05,440
insect larvae from the riverbed.
221
00:29:08,200 --> 00:29:11,880
The ducklings have a protective
membrane to stop their bills
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00:29:11,880 --> 00:29:13,320
being rubbed raw.
223
00:29:24,760 --> 00:29:26,960
It almost looks like fun.
224
00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:37,920
But sudden storms or snowmelt
can cause flash floods...
225
00:29:41,960 --> 00:29:45,920
which can dislodge boulders,
let alone a tiny ball of feathers.
226
00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:02,200
But these blue duck chicks can motor
through this powerful flow.
227
00:30:06,920 --> 00:30:09,920
Their giant webbed feet
are far too big on land,
228
00:30:09,920 --> 00:30:12,160
but they are perfect in the torrent.
229
00:30:26,000 --> 00:30:30,200
Allowing this violent river
to become their playground.
230
00:30:44,480 --> 00:30:48,240
There is more than one way
to conquer these extremes.
231
00:31:09,120 --> 00:31:12,480
Parrots are very intelligent birds.
232
00:31:12,480 --> 00:31:16,280
But the kea is perhaps the smartest
of them all.
233
00:31:22,080 --> 00:31:25,320
When it comes to setting up home,
they choose a warm,
234
00:31:25,320 --> 00:31:28,680
dry burrow to keep their family safe
from the elements.
235
00:31:28,680 --> 00:31:31,720
HIGH-PITCHED SQUAWKING
236
00:31:36,720 --> 00:31:39,240
The chicks huddle together for
warmth and comfort
237
00:31:39,240 --> 00:31:41,520
while their parents are away.
238
00:31:45,040 --> 00:31:47,360
But nine weeks after they've
hatched,
239
00:31:47,360 --> 00:31:49,360
they hanker for something more.
240
00:31:54,840 --> 00:31:59,240
Kea are famous for their insatiable
curiosity.
241
00:31:59,240 --> 00:32:02,360
THEY SQUAWK
242
00:32:04,120 --> 00:32:07,160
With a little parental
encouragement,
243
00:32:07,160 --> 00:32:09,680
there's no holding
these youngsters back.
244
00:32:17,320 --> 00:32:20,120
On broad wings, they are led out
from the forest...
245
00:32:22,000 --> 00:32:24,000
into a whole new realm.
246
00:32:37,640 --> 00:32:40,200
Kea have unusually agile minds.
247
00:32:42,600 --> 00:32:47,200
Car parks and ski slopes are
a smorgasbord of opportunity.
248
00:33:04,760 --> 00:33:07,320
It's not just their minds that are
flexible.
249
00:33:09,200 --> 00:33:12,560
Their hooked beaks are a multi-tool.
250
00:33:21,080 --> 00:33:26,400
Perfect for digging, twisting, and
getting into all kinds of mischief.
251
00:33:42,600 --> 00:33:45,240
It's this combination of beak and
brain
252
00:33:45,240 --> 00:33:50,040
that enables kea to tackle even the
most hostile face of the mountains.
253
00:34:04,920 --> 00:34:08,240
Its bill even serves as an ice axe.
254
00:34:14,800 --> 00:34:19,920
The kea is the only parrot in the
world to thrive above the snow line.
255
00:34:44,200 --> 00:34:46,920
Of all the wild places
in New Zealand,
256
00:34:46,920 --> 00:34:50,760
the Southern Alps present the most
extreme challenges of all.
257
00:35:01,840 --> 00:35:05,360
They dictate the weather
that rules all life here.
258
00:35:09,320 --> 00:35:13,560
They tower almost 4,000 metres
above sea level
259
00:35:13,560 --> 00:35:15,240
and they're still rising.
260
00:35:18,480 --> 00:35:21,880
These are some of the
fastest-growing mountains in the
world.
261
00:35:27,960 --> 00:35:32,360
They might stand 20,000 metres high
if they weren't battered down and
262
00:35:32,360 --> 00:35:33,960
eroded by the elements.
263
00:35:40,240 --> 00:35:44,320
It's a fractured, high altitude,
frozen kingdom.
264
00:35:44,320 --> 00:35:47,280
The most inhospitable of
all New Zealand.
265
00:35:53,120 --> 00:35:57,000
Up here, the grip of ice
is impossible to escape.
266
00:35:59,000 --> 00:36:02,120
Heavy snow falls on heavy snow.
267
00:36:02,120 --> 00:36:06,280
It squeezes out the air,
compacting into giant blocks of ice
268
00:36:06,280 --> 00:36:08,440
to create immense glaciers.
269
00:36:12,520 --> 00:36:17,120
Millions of tonnes of fresh water
stored, frozen solid.
270
00:36:27,640 --> 00:36:33,920
These powerful giants carve out
valleys and deep glacial lakes.
271
00:36:33,920 --> 00:36:38,960
They dominate the entire landscape
and hold all life here in balance.
272
00:36:44,360 --> 00:36:48,600
But the strength of the
South Island's glaciers is slipping,
273
00:36:48,600 --> 00:36:53,000
and one man has devoted
his life's work to find out why.
274
00:37:03,280 --> 00:37:06,640
Brian Anderson is a glacial
scientist
275
00:37:06,640 --> 00:37:10,200
who builds machines that help him
look into the future.
276
00:37:15,200 --> 00:37:16,680
I like to get out to the mountains.
277
00:37:16,680 --> 00:37:20,040
I like to measure glaciers and try
and understand how they work,
278
00:37:20,040 --> 00:37:21,720
what's happening at the moment,
279
00:37:21,720 --> 00:37:23,360
and then try and build a picture
280
00:37:23,360 --> 00:37:25,760
of what glaciers might do in the
future.
281
00:37:32,680 --> 00:37:37,040
Brian's workplace has to be one of
the most remote in the country.
282
00:37:42,360 --> 00:37:46,520
His mission forces him into parts of
the wilderness so cut-off,
283
00:37:46,520 --> 00:37:50,320
he must take everything he needs
with him.
284
00:38:07,400 --> 00:38:09,720
Brian has to drive a stake eight
metres down
285
00:38:09,720 --> 00:38:14,720
into the icy heart of the glacier
to reveal its deepest secrets.
286
00:38:16,760 --> 00:38:19,480
And he does it with this portable
steam drill.
287
00:38:22,000 --> 00:38:26,200
For the steam drilling we use this
backpack-mounted boiler.
288
00:38:26,200 --> 00:38:28,760
You have to drill quite deep.
289
00:38:28,760 --> 00:38:31,120
It might melt six or eight metres
over the summer,
290
00:38:31,120 --> 00:38:33,040
and so we need our stakes to be long
enough
291
00:38:33,040 --> 00:38:34,840
that they'll actually stay in.
292
00:38:36,760 --> 00:38:39,840
By measuring the depth of snow
through the year,
293
00:38:39,840 --> 00:38:43,400
Brian can record how the glacier
changes size,
294
00:38:43,400 --> 00:38:46,080
building a picture of its long-term
behaviour.
295
00:38:55,280 --> 00:38:58,560
Glaciers move incredibly slowly,
296
00:38:58,560 --> 00:39:02,520
so the only way to watch them is to
speed up time itself.
297
00:39:04,480 --> 00:39:09,560
And his handbuilt time-lapse units
will let Brian do exactly that.
298
00:39:17,720 --> 00:39:21,880
Or they will, providing he can
get them into the best positions.
299
00:39:28,160 --> 00:39:32,760
It all started with one camera
and then I think I got seven cameras
300
00:39:32,760 --> 00:39:35,640
looking at glaciers
around the Southern Alps.
301
00:39:35,640 --> 00:39:39,320
So the beauty of using a camera is
that it's taking a photo every hour.
302
00:39:39,320 --> 00:39:40,560
It gives us the kind of data
303
00:39:40,560 --> 00:39:42,920
that you can't get from measuring on
the ground.
304
00:39:42,920 --> 00:39:45,560
And you can't really get
from measuring from space, either,
305
00:39:45,560 --> 00:39:49,120
because these glacier environments
are often really cloudy.
306
00:39:54,080 --> 00:39:58,320
Time-lapse cameras can condense
a year into a few seconds.
307
00:40:00,520 --> 00:40:04,320
But only if they survive the months
of freezing conditions.
308
00:40:19,400 --> 00:40:21,360
The results are worth it.
309
00:40:26,120 --> 00:40:28,600
When you actually look at the
photos,
310
00:40:28,600 --> 00:40:31,640
like every hour over weeks or months
or years,
311
00:40:31,640 --> 00:40:34,160
you can actually see every
little change in the glacier.
312
00:40:34,160 --> 00:40:37,120
I always find things
that I wouldn't have expected.
313
00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:43,880
Glaciers are rivers of ice
314
00:40:43,880 --> 00:40:47,200
and it's only in time-lapse that we
really see them flow.
315
00:40:53,920 --> 00:40:58,800
Some of the South Island's glaciers
shift as much as seven metres a day.
316
00:41:08,800 --> 00:41:11,120
The meltwater helps them move.
317
00:41:11,120 --> 00:41:15,120
CREAKING
318
00:41:28,520 --> 00:41:31,680
It carves its way through to the
base of the glacier.
319
00:41:43,920 --> 00:41:47,480
Where it lubricates the mass of ice,
320
00:41:47,480 --> 00:41:49,240
allowing it to flow.
321
00:41:52,280 --> 00:41:54,960
The huge weight carried by the water
322
00:41:54,960 --> 00:41:58,520
grinds its way down the valleys in
colossal cascades.
323
00:42:07,520 --> 00:42:11,600
Brian is discovering that parts of
New Zealand's frozen kingdom
324
00:42:11,600 --> 00:42:13,280
are melting away.
325
00:42:18,720 --> 00:42:23,160
Even the South Island's mightiest,
the Tasman Glacier,
326
00:42:23,160 --> 00:42:27,680
16 miles long and 600 metres deep,
is retreating.
327
00:42:31,800 --> 00:42:35,040
And the more they melt,
the faster they flow.
328
00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:43,600
Scientists estimate that the
Southern Alps
329
00:42:43,600 --> 00:42:46,640
have lost a third of their
permanent snow and ice
330
00:42:46,640 --> 00:42:48,160
over the last 40 years.
331
00:43:03,520 --> 00:43:06,960
As the ice retreats,
it reveals a broken landscape.
332
00:43:08,560 --> 00:43:10,600
A challenging place to
get a foothold.
333
00:43:11,640 --> 00:43:15,400
But New Zealand has some remarkable
mountaineers.
334
00:43:17,600 --> 00:43:19,800
It's alpine buttercup.
335
00:43:27,880 --> 00:43:32,000
At permanent risk of being destroyed
by falling rocks.
336
00:43:37,920 --> 00:43:42,760
The secret to its survival
lies beneath the scree -
337
00:43:42,760 --> 00:43:45,760
a snakelike stem which grows
horizontally.
338
00:43:52,640 --> 00:43:54,840
This is its underground larder.
339
00:43:57,760 --> 00:44:02,720
If a stem is snapped, a whole new
plant can still grow.
340
00:44:16,160 --> 00:44:20,440
Creating a shower of sunshine
across the grey mountainside.
341
00:44:30,560 --> 00:44:33,200
And they aren't the only hardy
plants up here.
342
00:44:38,480 --> 00:44:43,040
Edelweiss has its own fleecy blanket
as insulation against the cold.
343
00:44:48,800 --> 00:44:53,920
And there is one plant which packs
its leaves so tightly together
344
00:44:53,920 --> 00:44:55,840
they become a dense living carpet.
345
00:45:01,280 --> 00:45:05,640
Raoulia grows as low to the ground
as possible, just off the rocks,
346
00:45:05,640 --> 00:45:07,640
where it can be a few degrees
warmer,
347
00:45:07,640 --> 00:45:10,240
tucked away from the harsh
mountain weather.
348
00:45:16,720 --> 00:45:20,560
Antarctic storms bring a sudden drop
in temperature.
349
00:45:25,800 --> 00:45:29,880
Freezing conditions and gale-force
winds bring death in their wake.
350
00:45:48,720 --> 00:45:53,080
To survive here, you have to be
prepared to die here.
351
00:46:05,920 --> 00:46:11,200
But the sun can return as quickly
as the storm arrived.
352
00:46:11,200 --> 00:46:16,440
And a rise of just a few degrees
is enough to spark a thaw,
353
00:46:16,440 --> 00:46:17,880
even underground.
354
00:46:48,760 --> 00:46:52,160
Frozen solid, a mountain stone weta.
355
00:46:54,920 --> 00:46:58,840
It has the most extraordinary
survival technique of all.
356
00:47:12,880 --> 00:47:16,360
The ability to come back
from the dead.
357
00:47:21,920 --> 00:47:24,160
Only in a specialised
filming chamber
358
00:47:24,160 --> 00:47:27,200
can we capture its extraordinary
talent.
359
00:47:28,680 --> 00:47:31,520
The weta has developed special
proteins which prevent
360
00:47:31,520 --> 00:47:34,840
ice crystals from forming inside
its cells.
361
00:47:38,320 --> 00:47:42,120
A remarkable trick for a creature
whose ancestors once lived in
362
00:47:42,120 --> 00:47:44,360
prehistoric warm, wet forests.
363
00:47:47,960 --> 00:47:50,680
But when New Zealand's mountains
grew up beneath them,
364
00:47:50,680 --> 00:47:53,080
around five million years ago,
365
00:47:53,080 --> 00:47:56,240
they were forced to come up with
this incredible ability to survive
366
00:47:56,240 --> 00:47:57,840
near lethal temperatures.
367
00:48:06,200 --> 00:48:09,400
Defrosting uses up a lot of energy.
368
00:48:16,640 --> 00:48:20,080
So mountain snow berries
are a welcome sight.
369
00:48:25,560 --> 00:48:28,480
The weta needs to stock up while it
can.
370
00:48:29,960 --> 00:48:33,720
The next Antarctic storm could be
the return of winter.
371
00:48:55,240 --> 00:48:58,920
It can tolerate over 80%
of its body freezing solid,
372
00:48:58,920 --> 00:49:02,840
and can do so day-in and day-out
for weeks at a time.
373
00:49:13,840 --> 00:49:19,640
Nowhere else in New Zealand does
life go to such extremes to survive.
374
00:49:26,920 --> 00:49:29,120
Every living thing here must rise
375
00:49:29,120 --> 00:49:32,120
to the challenges of this land's
extremes.
376
00:49:38,320 --> 00:49:40,240
In the face of adversity,
377
00:49:40,240 --> 00:49:44,320
life has found unexpected and
ingenious solutions.
378
00:49:47,040 --> 00:49:50,760
But perhaps most striking of
all is their resilience.
379
00:49:53,960 --> 00:49:59,240
This is the true spirit of
New Zealand's remarkable pioneers.
380
00:50:16,920 --> 00:50:19,680
Visitors to New Zealand's
Southern Alps
381
00:50:19,680 --> 00:50:23,520
are likely to be confronted
by a noisy welcoming party.
382
00:50:29,240 --> 00:50:32,520
Kea are the boldest characters
in the mountains.
383
00:50:39,720 --> 00:50:42,880
Infamous for sticking
their beaks into everything.
384
00:50:53,480 --> 00:50:56,480
These mischievous vandals
know how to charm.
385
00:51:05,680 --> 00:51:11,520
But these entertaining encounters
mask a worrying situation.
386
00:51:13,320 --> 00:51:15,840
Kea are slowly disappearing.
387
00:51:20,840 --> 00:51:24,240
One man is on a mission
to find out why.
388
00:51:24,240 --> 00:51:27,200
I think something that people are
unaware of
389
00:51:27,200 --> 00:51:30,840
is that kea are actually quite
endangered, and there's not many.
390
00:51:30,840 --> 00:51:33,080
Corey Mosen is a kea fanatic.
391
00:51:35,080 --> 00:51:37,680
I think I like
their inquisitive nature
392
00:51:37,680 --> 00:51:40,360
and how they're really cheeky.
393
00:51:40,360 --> 00:51:43,120
You know, they can outsmart you
quite easily,
394
00:51:43,120 --> 00:51:45,840
and working with
them is interesting every day.
395
00:51:48,600 --> 00:51:51,240
For nearly a decade,
Cory has been trying
396
00:51:51,240 --> 00:51:53,440
to understand the kea's decline,
397
00:51:53,440 --> 00:51:55,040
and he doesn't do it alone.
398
00:51:55,040 --> 00:51:57,080
He has an assistant.
399
00:51:57,080 --> 00:51:59,000
Come here. Come here.
400
00:51:59,000 --> 00:52:00,720
His name's Ajax.
401
00:52:00,720 --> 00:52:03,040
I've been training the dog
since he was a puppy.
402
00:52:03,040 --> 00:52:05,000
I've trained him to find kea nests.
403
00:52:05,000 --> 00:52:09,160
So he will follow a scent and lead
me to where
404
00:52:09,160 --> 00:52:12,320
a kea is going in and out of a hole.
405
00:52:12,320 --> 00:52:15,880
Ajax is the only kea search dog
in the world.
406
00:52:15,880 --> 00:52:18,160
AJAX BARKS
407
00:52:18,160 --> 00:52:20,920
He's pretty good company
in the bush
408
00:52:20,920 --> 00:52:22,760
and he can keep up with me.
409
00:52:24,760 --> 00:52:28,160
Kea breed in some of the most remote
parts of New Zealand.
410
00:52:31,640 --> 00:52:36,520
Today, Corey and Ajax are on their
annual kea nest checkup,
411
00:52:36,520 --> 00:52:38,800
and have a two-day journey
ahead of them.
412
00:52:38,800 --> 00:52:42,800
Sometimes you have to walk over
a couple of mountains and down into
413
00:52:42,800 --> 00:52:47,360
valleys, and then up through
some rivers and around some bluffs,
414
00:52:47,360 --> 00:52:50,840
but eventually you'll find where
they are.
415
00:52:50,840 --> 00:52:54,200
But Corey's task is getting
harder every year.
416
00:52:56,200 --> 00:52:59,080
He starts by checking some closer
nesting sites.
417
00:53:01,200 --> 00:53:04,520
Which, a few years ago, would have
been full of kea families.
418
00:53:06,440 --> 00:53:08,000
Now they're empty.
419
00:53:11,480 --> 00:53:14,440
Corey and Ajax are going
to have to go further afield.
420
00:53:20,120 --> 00:53:24,080
With the light fading,
they make camp for the night.
421
00:53:32,600 --> 00:53:35,280
My favourite thing is just
being outside.
422
00:53:37,960 --> 00:53:41,840
I am outside all the time, in the
snow, in the rain, in the wind,
423
00:53:41,840 --> 00:53:44,240
and it all just makes
you feel alive.
424
00:53:56,320 --> 00:53:58,200
Next day, they set off early.
425
00:54:00,640 --> 00:54:03,040
And Ajax announces
426
00:54:00,640 --> 00:54:03,040
AJAX BARKS
427
00:54:03,040 --> 00:54:05,640
he's found exactly
what they're looking for.
428
00:54:17,440 --> 00:54:21,280
But this burrow is built for a kea,
not for a kea tracker.
429
00:54:23,680 --> 00:54:26,000
This is not comfortable.
430
00:54:29,080 --> 00:54:32,000
To study them, Corey first needs
to catch them.
431
00:54:47,520 --> 00:54:49,880
A collar keeps Corey's fingers safe.
432
00:54:51,640 --> 00:54:54,960
He carefully attaches a leg ring
433
00:54:54,960 --> 00:54:56,640
and records the details.
434
00:55:00,400 --> 00:55:04,280
A quick draw of blood adds to the
genetic database for the species.
435
00:55:05,960 --> 00:55:10,320
A final check, and he releases
the bird back to the nest,
436
00:55:10,320 --> 00:55:11,680
none the worse for wear.
437
00:55:16,760 --> 00:55:19,240
But Corey has one more job to do.
438
00:55:23,840 --> 00:55:26,760
During the three months kea
nest underground,
439
00:55:26,760 --> 00:55:28,640
they're extremely vulnerable.
440
00:55:30,360 --> 00:55:32,960
We put a trail camera outside the
kea nest
441
00:55:32,960 --> 00:55:35,640
to monitor for predator visits.
442
00:55:35,640 --> 00:55:39,240
So every time something moves
outside the nest,
443
00:55:39,240 --> 00:55:41,200
it'll take three photos,
444
00:55:41,200 --> 00:55:44,680
and we can use those photos
to determine,
445
00:55:44,680 --> 00:55:47,000
you know, what's visiting the nests.
446
00:55:47,000 --> 00:55:48,600
Whether it's just the keas
447
00:55:48,600 --> 00:55:52,560
or whether stoats and possums
and rats are annoying them, as well.
448
00:55:53,680 --> 00:55:56,760
Corey's trail-cams provide a unique
insight
449
00:55:56,760 --> 00:55:58,840
into the private life of kea.
450
00:56:01,400 --> 00:56:04,800
But they also reveal
what is really going on.
451
00:56:11,600 --> 00:56:15,360
Predatory mammals
introduced from around the world
452
00:56:15,360 --> 00:56:18,640
are decimating
New Zealand's native birds.
453
00:56:30,040 --> 00:56:33,240
Kea are easy prey for a stoat.
454
00:56:39,920 --> 00:56:43,760
I fear that they might be
approaching extinction
455
00:56:43,760 --> 00:56:47,280
and that they will no longer
be in the wild.
456
00:56:47,280 --> 00:56:50,040
We need to find a way
to control stoats.
457
00:56:50,040 --> 00:56:54,320
Stoats are the big
number-one pest that affect
458
00:56:54,320 --> 00:56:57,000
all New Zealand's native birds
459
00:56:57,000 --> 00:57:00,040
and if they weren't here,
they'd do a lot better.
460
00:57:04,840 --> 00:57:07,920
In areas where there
are pest control,
461
00:57:07,920 --> 00:57:14,240
the kea actually have a chance of
producing young that make it out.
462
00:57:14,240 --> 00:57:17,120
It's great to see them
become adults,
463
00:57:17,120 --> 00:57:20,880
flying around the same area
where we tagged them as chicks.
464
00:57:24,400 --> 00:57:27,680
Oh, I'd like to see kea everywhere.
465
00:57:27,680 --> 00:57:30,520
Every time you go for a hike
into the mountains
466
00:57:30,520 --> 00:57:33,480
it would be nice to have an
interaction with a kea
467
00:57:33,480 --> 00:57:35,080
somewhere along the way
468
00:57:35,080 --> 00:57:37,960
and to hear them screaming in the
hills
469
00:57:37,960 --> 00:57:39,840
and in the forest would be great.
470
00:57:41,480 --> 00:57:43,920
Thanks to Corey's hard work
471
00:57:43,920 --> 00:57:50,040
we are realising that despite their
clever nature, kea need our help.
472
00:57:50,040 --> 00:57:53,920
And only with our help will New
Zealand's Alpine valleys
473
00:57:53,920 --> 00:57:57,760
remain the realm
of this cheeky mountain king.
474
00:58:02,120 --> 00:58:05,040
KEA SQUAWKS
475
00:58:08,560 --> 00:58:10,320
Next time...
476
00:58:10,320 --> 00:58:13,320
New opportunities transform
New Zealand.
477
00:58:15,240 --> 00:58:16,640
A farmer's paradise...
478
00:58:18,440 --> 00:58:19,520
a fisherman's dream...
479
00:58:22,800 --> 00:58:24,960
and a playground for new arrivals.
480
00:58:26,840 --> 00:58:29,560
The home of world-renowned
conservation...
481
00:58:31,600 --> 00:58:36,000
where a flightless
parrot discovers fame.
63895
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