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1
00:00:12,080 --> 00:00:13,900
Nothing was easy about going back to
Columbia.
2
00:00:14,660 --> 00:00:18,660
You could hike and bleed all day and
cover just a couple miles.
3
00:00:20,380 --> 00:00:22,980
It didn't really occur to us how
dangerous it was.
4
00:00:25,240 --> 00:00:27,800
Four soldiers just materialized out of
the bush.
5
00:00:34,160 --> 00:00:36,300
We're surrounded, and it's just crazy.
6
00:00:38,040 --> 00:00:40,680
They were going to take me into the
jungle and put a bullet in my head.
7
00:01:05,129 --> 00:01:05,848
I was 21.
8
00:01:05,850 --> 00:01:07,290
I went to the University of Colorado.
9
00:01:07,850 --> 00:01:10,230
I really wasn't doing very well. I
wanted to leave.
10
00:01:11,470 --> 00:01:13,590
I was thinking about what I was going to
do next.
11
00:01:16,050 --> 00:01:17,290
I was from Colombia.
12
00:01:18,070 --> 00:01:23,130
When I was very small, two months, I was
adopted by an American couple, and it
13
00:01:23,130 --> 00:01:24,510
occurred to me that I should go back to
Colombia.
14
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I think it's important for people that
have grown up somewhere else to go back.
15
00:01:31,250 --> 00:01:32,270
It would be an adventure.
16
00:01:33,080 --> 00:01:36,860
I figured I would grow as a person, and
then everything would make sense.
17
00:01:41,460 --> 00:01:44,000
I had a road trip down from Colorado.
18
00:01:44,720 --> 00:01:48,900
That was an important part of the trip,
was to really get off the tourist track.
19
00:01:49,360 --> 00:01:53,660
I wanted to go back to Columbia in a way
that was meaningful to me.
20
00:01:56,340 --> 00:01:58,020
I can fly or take a boat.
21
00:01:58,240 --> 00:01:59,240
It was like...
22
00:01:59,580 --> 00:02:02,900
Kung fu or something, this idea that I
would be walking through Central
23
00:02:03,380 --> 00:02:05,680
I felt there was some truth to this.
24
00:02:06,780 --> 00:02:10,580
You can get on a road and you can take
it all the way south, but it ends in
25
00:02:10,580 --> 00:02:11,580
Panama, that's it.
26
00:02:12,560 --> 00:02:15,780
But to cross into Colombia, you have to
cross the Darien Gap.
27
00:02:20,740 --> 00:02:24,220
The Darien is kind of mythical. It's
jungle for hundreds of miles.
28
00:02:25,120 --> 00:02:27,200
I had no idea what it would take to get
across.
29
00:02:27,680 --> 00:02:31,580
There was... any number of potential
dangers there.
30
00:02:32,780 --> 00:02:37,380
I would talk to travelers about the
Darien. People talked about drug
31
00:02:37,380 --> 00:02:38,620
and the guerrillas.
32
00:02:38,940 --> 00:02:41,980
They said, crazy, it's a stupid idea.
33
00:02:42,540 --> 00:02:43,540
Who gets kidnapped?
34
00:02:43,760 --> 00:02:45,420
Or killed, either one.
35
00:02:45,780 --> 00:02:50,160
I was a little nervous, but that
certainly wasn't enough to dissuade me.
36
00:02:50,380 --> 00:02:54,580
I thought it was an amazing opportunity
to kind of prove something myself.
37
00:03:00,460 --> 00:03:04,300
It's challenging, this idea to cross the
Darien. Frightening.
38
00:03:05,980 --> 00:03:07,360
But why should it be easy?
39
00:03:09,720 --> 00:03:16,460
I bought a machete, a pair of tropical
combat boots, a
40
00:03:16,460 --> 00:03:18,140
small military backpack.
41
00:03:18,580 --> 00:03:20,080
Didn't really want to carry much.
42
00:03:22,620 --> 00:03:24,700
Bought a baby blue mosquito net.
43
00:03:25,020 --> 00:03:28,200
It's a little comical. You know, how
does one shop for a jungle adventure?
44
00:03:31,630 --> 00:03:34,190
I was trying to shed my kind of American
appearance.
45
00:03:34,570 --> 00:03:37,250
I felt like it would be easier for me to
kind of blend in.
46
00:03:38,710 --> 00:03:40,330
I don't know if I did a very good job.
47
00:03:41,230 --> 00:03:42,970
I look kind of like a bum, I think.
48
00:03:46,510 --> 00:03:50,090
The last thing I needed before I left
was a map.
49
00:03:51,150 --> 00:03:53,930
Not a lot of people ask for a map of the
Darien, obviously.
50
00:03:54,630 --> 00:03:57,310
And I'm looking at what kind of maps are
there.
51
00:03:58,650 --> 00:04:00,370
And this guy walks in.
52
00:04:01,770 --> 00:04:03,030
He goes to the same counter.
53
00:04:04,330 --> 00:04:07,570
He asks about a map of the Darien.
54
00:04:10,010 --> 00:04:11,930
This is kind of strange.
55
00:04:12,350 --> 00:04:14,110
Now I'm just all ears. I'm curious.
56
00:04:17,089 --> 00:04:20,829
He introduced himself.
57
00:04:21,329 --> 00:04:25,050
He said he was a journalist.
58
00:04:26,350 --> 00:04:29,170
The woman gave a set of aerial
photographs.
59
00:04:30,350 --> 00:04:32,870
They all looked the same. It was just
green with these trees.
60
00:04:33,090 --> 00:04:36,030
Wow, that's going to be a big help. You
couldn't distinguish one from the other.
61
00:04:38,190 --> 00:04:39,210
When were you thinking of going?
62
00:04:39,710 --> 00:04:42,930
Next day or two. I think both of us were
trying to figure out if it was a good
63
00:04:42,930 --> 00:04:45,930
fit to go together, and so we agreed to
meet up at his hotel.
64
00:04:48,330 --> 00:04:51,350
Already I was thinking about if we were
going to travel together, how this would
65
00:04:51,350 --> 00:04:52,350
go.
66
00:04:52,510 --> 00:04:55,850
I brought something out for my own. My
plan was to kind of go unnoticed through
67
00:04:55,850 --> 00:04:56,789
the Darien.
68
00:04:56,789 --> 00:04:59,810
But he was traveling with another woman
who was my age.
69
00:05:01,390 --> 00:05:02,390
My friend Megan.
70
00:05:02,710 --> 00:05:07,010
I'm like, you know, she's blonde and six
feet tall.
71
00:05:07,250 --> 00:05:10,810
At that point, I'm like, well, there's
no way we're going to be sneaking
72
00:05:10,810 --> 00:05:12,750
the Darien. We're just trying to figure
out the best route.
73
00:05:13,070 --> 00:05:17,870
I don't think Meg was so sure about me
coming along, which is funny because I
74
00:05:17,870 --> 00:05:19,290
kind of had my own concerns about them.
75
00:05:20,200 --> 00:05:23,180
I think we were all a little interested
in what we would encounter in the
76
00:05:23,180 --> 00:05:27,260
Darien. We could run into some Colombian
guerrillas in this area. Yeah, right,
77
00:05:27,400 --> 00:05:29,100
the FARC. I knew about the FARC.
78
00:05:33,740 --> 00:05:36,780
FARC stands for the Revolutionary Armed
Forces of Colombia.
79
00:05:37,920 --> 00:05:41,120
I was interested in what they were
trying to do.
80
00:05:41,520 --> 00:05:46,180
There were people that, in my 21 -year
-old liberal arts mind, were taking
81
00:05:46,180 --> 00:05:47,220
direct action.
82
00:05:48,240 --> 00:05:51,080
I thought that they would change the way
things were in Columbia.
83
00:05:51,800 --> 00:05:52,800
Poverty.
84
00:05:53,700 --> 00:05:54,800
Romantic. Freedom fighters.
85
00:05:55,020 --> 00:05:56,020
Yeah.
86
00:05:58,240 --> 00:06:01,280
There was a discussion about the
potential of us being kidnapped.
87
00:06:02,120 --> 00:06:06,580
But I had to get to Columbia, and I was
going to do it this way. So how do you
88
00:06:06,580 --> 00:06:07,820
feel about us all going together?
89
00:06:11,060 --> 00:06:12,540
I said, yeah. Do it.
90
00:06:18,250 --> 00:06:22,070
We got in the boat, and there we were,
headed into the Darien.
91
00:06:24,010 --> 00:06:27,430
There was really no thought to even if
we belonged in that part of the world.
92
00:06:28,030 --> 00:06:29,970
That didn't occur to us. It was our
trip.
93
00:06:32,970 --> 00:06:35,130
I didn't think there'd be any real
severe consequences.
94
00:06:35,650 --> 00:06:38,670
Anything that I was going to get into, I
felt like I could kind of get out of. I
95
00:06:38,670 --> 00:06:39,670
think we all felt that way.
96
00:06:45,620 --> 00:06:47,660
We'd take all day to travel three or
four miles.
97
00:06:48,940 --> 00:06:50,320
But we were definitely on our way.
98
00:06:52,860 --> 00:06:57,160
Robert had a GPS, but the GPS was tough
in that part of the world.
99
00:06:58,200 --> 00:07:00,300
We tried to get our maps to gel with the
GPS.
100
00:07:01,160 --> 00:07:03,240
We couldn't get the map to coordinate.
101
00:07:05,020 --> 00:07:09,160
It became very clear that this type of
journey was impossible without a guide.
102
00:07:12,520 --> 00:07:17,080
We went upriver all day, and we arrived
at a native village, Kapati.
103
00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:21,640
At that time, we met Victor.
104
00:07:22,700 --> 00:07:24,000
He saw us pull in.
105
00:07:24,620 --> 00:07:26,280
Hello. Welcome.
106
00:07:26,660 --> 00:07:28,180
Good morning. Mark.
107
00:07:28,780 --> 00:07:30,320
I liked Victor right off.
108
00:07:30,540 --> 00:07:31,540
He was really friendly.
109
00:07:31,920 --> 00:07:32,859
Good morning, miss.
110
00:07:32,860 --> 00:07:34,540
I am single.
111
00:07:34,960 --> 00:07:36,540
Older, early 50s.
112
00:07:39,020 --> 00:07:42,180
Victor kind of took us on a tour. We
walked through the village. He showed us
113
00:07:42,180 --> 00:07:43,180
his house.
114
00:07:43,260 --> 00:07:46,240
We told Victor we were planning to cross
the Darien into Colombia.
115
00:07:47,280 --> 00:07:50,040
And that didn't seem like too big an
issue for him.
116
00:07:51,360 --> 00:07:54,400
He talked about his experience guiding
in the past.
117
00:07:55,780 --> 00:08:00,460
And he claimed to have contacts with the
park, which was another relief. That's
118
00:08:00,460 --> 00:08:03,800
one less of a reason to worry with a
guide that has contacts with the park.
119
00:08:03,940 --> 00:08:05,400
Great. What do you think?
120
00:08:05,840 --> 00:08:07,160
Kind of won us over, you know.
121
00:08:08,120 --> 00:08:14,740
But before we could leave Capati with
Victor,
122
00:08:14,920 --> 00:08:16,720
we had to meet with the Panamanian
police.
123
00:08:18,960 --> 00:08:22,180
Capati was the final outpost on the
Panamanian side.
124
00:08:23,060 --> 00:08:26,680
There was a little garrison on the edge
of the Darien.
125
00:08:27,060 --> 00:08:28,220
It was fortified.
126
00:08:28,720 --> 00:08:31,840
They had sandbag placements, machine gun
placements.
127
00:08:33,880 --> 00:08:37,039
Clearly they were protecting that part
of Panama from something.
128
00:08:39,460 --> 00:08:42,059
We're going to have to somehow appease
the police to let us through.
129
00:08:44,900 --> 00:08:46,540
We began this kind of negotiation.
130
00:08:48,100 --> 00:08:49,500
We asked to leave.
131
00:08:50,000 --> 00:08:52,180
They told us it was too dangerous.
132
00:08:57,980 --> 00:09:02,160
They had all sorts of stories about what
they thought was in the Daria. They
133
00:09:02,160 --> 00:09:04,180
mentioned drug trafficking, they
mentioned the FARC.
134
00:09:05,300 --> 00:09:08,400
And they sort of look to Victor and they
look at me. Do you understand?
135
00:09:10,140 --> 00:09:12,280
Sort of, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, you
know, guerrillas.
136
00:09:13,780 --> 00:09:15,340
We said, we're not going to go far.
137
00:09:17,440 --> 00:09:19,020
They weren't having it.
138
00:09:21,340 --> 00:09:24,980
At that point, I was concerned that this
was as far as it was going to go.
139
00:09:25,960 --> 00:09:29,680
I thought maybe we were going to be back
on the river, headed back the same way
140
00:09:29,680 --> 00:09:30,680
we came.
141
00:09:33,720 --> 00:09:37,240
I think this is the part where I began
to trust Victor because he wasn't
142
00:09:37,240 --> 00:09:38,240
to give up.
143
00:09:42,940 --> 00:09:44,240
And so it went on all afternoon.
144
00:09:51,290 --> 00:09:56,110
Finally, the commanding officer said
that his commander was going to come and
145
00:09:56,110 --> 00:10:00,410
was going to talk to us. All the
soldiers grabbed their weapons and
146
00:10:00,410 --> 00:10:01,410
me, go.
147
00:10:02,770 --> 00:10:04,470
And they headed up to this hilltop.
148
00:10:09,470 --> 00:10:14,270
And that was the commander in his
helicopter just coming in low right over
149
00:10:14,270 --> 00:10:15,270
canopy.
150
00:10:18,600 --> 00:10:19,680
The helicopter landed.
151
00:10:20,180 --> 00:10:21,420
Officer jumped out.
152
00:10:21,920 --> 00:10:22,960
Blades are still spinning.
153
00:10:25,040 --> 00:10:27,400
Shot it over. He asked who Mark was.
154
00:10:27,660 --> 00:10:29,680
I was a Spanish speaker.
155
00:10:29,920 --> 00:10:30,920
That's me.
156
00:10:31,180 --> 00:10:36,120
And he was very brief. He said,
Panamanian police cannot ensure your
157
00:10:36,120 --> 00:10:38,480
this region of the Darien. Do you
understand the risks involved?
158
00:10:39,360 --> 00:10:40,360
I said, yes.
159
00:10:40,820 --> 00:10:41,820
He said, okay.
160
00:10:42,160 --> 00:10:43,059
Good luck.
161
00:10:43,060 --> 00:10:46,940
And that was it. He took my hand, got
back in the helicopter, and left.
162
00:10:48,040 --> 00:10:49,040
We felt great.
163
00:10:49,480 --> 00:10:50,720
Everything was back on track.
164
00:10:52,700 --> 00:10:55,100
Frankly, I don't think there was
anything they could have told us that
165
00:10:55,100 --> 00:10:56,820
have really deterred us from continuing.
166
00:10:59,300 --> 00:11:03,320
As it turned out, the Panamanian police
were right, but not for the reason that
167
00:11:03,320 --> 00:11:04,320
any of us expected.
168
00:11:05,500 --> 00:11:07,960
No one really could have predicted what
was going to happen next.
169
00:11:12,360 --> 00:11:15,280
It's going to take about two hours to
get to the next village.
170
00:11:15,600 --> 00:11:16,840
Leaving Kapiti was phenomenal.
171
00:11:17,320 --> 00:11:18,760
It was happening. It was really
happening.
172
00:11:20,220 --> 00:11:22,020
Victor negotiated a guide.
173
00:11:23,060 --> 00:11:25,720
We had a young boy that was our guide to
the next village.
174
00:11:26,580 --> 00:11:28,340
Everybody was in a pretty good mood.
175
00:11:29,140 --> 00:11:31,220
Robert shot some video of us leaving.
176
00:11:31,500 --> 00:11:33,700
These are like three different rivers
that come together.
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The bridge.
178
00:11:35,560 --> 00:11:36,560
We were on our way.
179
00:11:47,690 --> 00:11:49,530
The first couple days were really rough
for Robert.
180
00:11:50,610 --> 00:11:52,730
He had, like, the exhaustion.
181
00:11:53,110 --> 00:11:55,290
It was just really difficult keeping up
fluids.
182
00:11:56,130 --> 00:12:00,210
We were hiking between, like, 10 to 12
hours each day.
183
00:12:00,530 --> 00:12:03,030
Portions of the trail were really slow.
We had to cut through brush.
184
00:12:03,250 --> 00:12:04,570
They weren't well -traveled.
185
00:12:06,070 --> 00:12:10,630
We'd walk in riverbed for an hour, and
then suddenly our guide would skirt off
186
00:12:10,630 --> 00:12:14,450
on a very small, almost like a game
trail that you'd never fought on your
187
00:12:19,210 --> 00:12:22,250
We walked for almost 12 hours coming
into Pucaro.
188
00:12:25,890 --> 00:12:30,050
It was dusk, and we startled the people
there.
189
00:12:33,650 --> 00:12:40,650
It was just a really rare occurrence to
have
190
00:12:40,650 --> 00:12:41,810
people coming to the village.
191
00:12:45,110 --> 00:12:46,790
These young men came out.
192
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They had machetes.
193
00:12:49,990 --> 00:12:51,210
It felt really hostile.
194
00:12:53,630 --> 00:12:54,630
Yeah, I'm scared.
195
00:12:55,430 --> 00:12:56,349
I'm scared.
196
00:12:56,350 --> 00:12:57,950
I have no idea what they're going to do.
197
00:13:08,130 --> 00:13:13,310
I don't know what's going to happen.
198
00:13:14,550 --> 00:13:15,670
Are we going to be beat?
199
00:13:19,020 --> 00:13:20,280
And it's just crazy.
200
00:13:25,660 --> 00:13:27,160
They were in our faith.
201
00:13:28,220 --> 00:13:33,260
There was dogs. Just unbelievable
commotion.
202
00:13:40,600 --> 00:13:45,920
We're uninvited. We're in the Darien.
We've left the police outpost, and all
203
00:13:45,920 --> 00:13:46,920
really have is victory.
204
00:13:47,340 --> 00:13:48,740
All I could think, stay with Victor.
205
00:13:49,080 --> 00:13:50,080
Stay with Victor.
206
00:13:50,940 --> 00:13:53,480
If anyone's going to sort this out,
Victor's going to sort it out.
207
00:13:55,680 --> 00:13:59,920
Victor kept his calm, and he walked
directly to the chief's home.
208
00:14:02,220 --> 00:14:06,420
Obviously, they wanted to hear from us
what we were doing there and what we
209
00:14:06,420 --> 00:14:07,420
planning.
210
00:14:07,920 --> 00:14:10,320
Victor negotiated with the tribe.
211
00:14:26,290 --> 00:14:31,830
They gave us a cabin to stay in for the
night.
212
00:14:33,230 --> 00:14:35,930
From that point, I think the trip, it
changed a little bit.
213
00:14:37,030 --> 00:14:39,250
Now things are kind of coming into
focus.
214
00:14:42,150 --> 00:14:43,530
We are in the Darien now.
215
00:14:44,990 --> 00:14:47,940
And things are going to only become...
more unexpected.
216
00:14:49,320 --> 00:14:52,520
It's not that we couldn't have turned
around from there, but we limited our
217
00:14:52,520 --> 00:14:53,520
options for ourselves.
218
00:14:53,840 --> 00:14:57,740
It began to be, you know, not fun and
games. Like, this is real.
219
00:15:03,860 --> 00:15:08,180
The next day, Victor negotiated guides
for us.
220
00:15:10,500 --> 00:15:14,360
The plan was for the guides to take us
as far as Paya, which was the last
221
00:15:14,360 --> 00:15:15,400
Panamanian village.
222
00:15:16,120 --> 00:15:18,740
In just a matter of days, we'd be inside
Columbia.
223
00:15:19,400 --> 00:15:22,720
I certainly didn't think that we'd put
the most difficult part of the trek
224
00:15:22,720 --> 00:15:23,720
behind us.
225
00:15:24,180 --> 00:15:29,940
We had yet to enter the border region,
the real heart of the jungle, if you
226
00:15:29,940 --> 00:15:30,940
will.
227
00:15:36,380 --> 00:15:37,840
We hiked all day through the jungle.
228
00:15:39,260 --> 00:15:43,020
I remember Victor kind of laughing with
the guides about the amount of water we
229
00:15:43,020 --> 00:15:44,020
were drinking.
230
00:15:46,120 --> 00:15:47,940
And then we did run out of water.
231
00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:51,160
At first, it's like, wow, I'm really
thirsty. I'd really like some water. And
232
00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:55,720
then I really don't feel well, feel
lightheaded. We need to find water soon.
233
00:16:00,300 --> 00:16:00,700
Eventually,
234
00:16:00,700 --> 00:16:08,240
we
235
00:16:08,240 --> 00:16:09,500
find a grove of green bamboo.
236
00:16:10,600 --> 00:16:16,760
They would hack off part of the tree,
and then... cut off the top, and
237
00:16:16,760 --> 00:16:19,880
have six, eight ounces of water stored
in the tree.
238
00:16:21,540 --> 00:16:24,060
It was like a tremendous relief.
239
00:16:27,280 --> 00:16:31,200
We hiked all afternoon, and that
afternoon we arrived in Paia.
240
00:16:37,980 --> 00:16:41,720
Coming into Paia was much different than
Pucuru because they were expecting it.
241
00:16:43,790 --> 00:16:47,470
We made it to the last stop before you
cross the border into Colombia.
242
00:16:53,010 --> 00:16:55,550
That evening, we attended this tribal
meeting.
243
00:16:55,970 --> 00:16:58,790
I can remember there was a group of
young men that were kind of dancing in
244
00:16:58,790 --> 00:17:01,150
circles, playing their music, enjoying
themselves.
245
00:17:02,550 --> 00:17:06,369
We ate fish and then rice and some
bushmeat, iguana.
246
00:17:07,410 --> 00:17:08,470
We would eat what's served.
247
00:17:09,069 --> 00:17:10,109
And it was good.
248
00:17:10,410 --> 00:17:11,410
It was good.
249
00:17:12,319 --> 00:17:15,940
By that time, things were moving along
pretty well, and we were able to
250
00:17:15,940 --> 00:17:18,060
negotiate with the chief for guides.
251
00:17:20,640 --> 00:17:22,020
I couldn't believe where I was.
252
00:17:22,220 --> 00:17:23,619
I felt incredibly fortunate.
253
00:17:23,880 --> 00:17:26,400
I felt like I was doing what I set out
to do.
254
00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:36,260
We were there for a couple days.
255
00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:41,200
Victor told us that that would be safer
if we made contact with the FARC now
256
00:17:41,200 --> 00:17:42,200
rather than later.
257
00:17:43,100 --> 00:17:46,920
He told us that a local commander with
the FARC would meet with us.
258
00:17:48,080 --> 00:17:49,920
We spent a whole day. We just hung out.
259
00:17:51,220 --> 00:17:53,220
But they never showed up.
260
00:17:54,900 --> 00:17:58,220
If the FARC had showed up, that would
have been a huge relief.
261
00:17:58,880 --> 00:18:01,580
But that didn't happen, and the
following day we left.
262
00:18:04,590 --> 00:18:07,390
Leaving Paya, I knew we were close to
Columbia.
263
00:18:08,450 --> 00:18:11,870
We were probably about a day or a day
and a half from the border.
264
00:18:13,710 --> 00:18:17,790
Paya was our last village, and then
beyond that, the really serious part
265
00:18:19,930 --> 00:18:22,390
Hiking through the jungle is what you'd
expect.
266
00:18:23,550 --> 00:18:28,070
Everything is sharp and pointy or trying
to eat you.
267
00:18:30,010 --> 00:18:33,430
I had a compass, but you can't just pick
a direction and walk east.
268
00:18:33,740 --> 00:18:35,200
There's ravines and valleys.
269
00:18:37,820 --> 00:18:44,180
You could hike and bushwhack and bleed
all day and cover just a couple miles
270
00:18:44,180 --> 00:18:46,220
not really be any farther than from
where you started.
271
00:18:48,460 --> 00:18:51,360
There'd be points where the guide would
turn around and we'd go back the same
272
00:18:51,360 --> 00:18:52,360
way we came.
273
00:18:53,760 --> 00:18:54,980
Went off in another direction.
274
00:18:57,920 --> 00:19:00,640
You don't have any line of sight and
you're down under the canopy.
275
00:19:01,200 --> 00:19:03,980
And you really don't have a sense even
what direction you're walking.
276
00:19:04,740 --> 00:19:07,920
What I noticed more than anything was
this feeling that we were almost walking
277
00:19:07,920 --> 00:19:08,920
in circles.
278
00:19:09,560 --> 00:19:14,940
You'll pass a tree or some sort of
feature of vegetation and you'll swear
279
00:19:14,940 --> 00:19:15,940
already walked by it.
280
00:19:25,820 --> 00:19:30,100
We camped at night and expected to be in
Columbia the following day.
281
00:19:31,980 --> 00:19:33,260
I slept in my hammock.
282
00:19:34,080 --> 00:19:38,440
You kind of feel like a tuna in a net. I
mean, it's just not very comfortable.
283
00:19:38,680 --> 00:19:39,960
And it's warm and there's bugs.
284
00:19:40,720 --> 00:19:43,420
All sorts of things going on at night.
But it is loud.
285
00:19:45,000 --> 00:19:51,220
I think gradually I was starting to feel
fatigued. Not physically, but
286
00:19:51,220 --> 00:19:53,260
emotionally I was beginning to feel
tired.
287
00:19:55,680 --> 00:20:00,040
Even in the times when things were going
as well as they possibly could have.
288
00:20:00,540 --> 00:20:05,080
There was always an underlying fear of
where we were and what we were doing.
289
00:20:12,420 --> 00:20:14,180
The next morning we woke up, we had
breakfast.
290
00:20:14,760 --> 00:20:15,940
Hey Robert, you all packed?
291
00:20:16,380 --> 00:20:17,380
All packed.
292
00:20:18,140 --> 00:20:19,220
What about your hammock?
293
00:20:20,180 --> 00:20:23,220
And we continued. We knew that we were
probably going to cross into Columbia
294
00:20:23,220 --> 00:20:24,220
that day.
295
00:20:26,480 --> 00:20:28,380
Right around noon we decided to stop for
lunch.
296
00:20:30,129 --> 00:20:34,230
And while we were eating, three men we
knew from Paya passed us.
297
00:20:35,250 --> 00:20:38,330
They were headed to the same village,
and they were moving quite quickly. They
298
00:20:38,330 --> 00:20:41,850
had heavy bags, but they were moving
much faster than we were. We exchanged
299
00:20:41,850 --> 00:20:45,070
pleasantries, and they were off. We knew
we probably wouldn't see them again
300
00:20:45,070 --> 00:20:46,070
until we got there.
301
00:20:48,310 --> 00:20:52,610
So after lunch, we grabbed our stuff,
and we got back underway.
302
00:20:53,730 --> 00:20:57,090
And shortly after that, we were up on a
ridge line.
303
00:20:57,640 --> 00:21:00,320
It was open. There was a storm that had
come in and knocked down a lot of the
304
00:21:00,320 --> 00:21:02,240
trees, and we were kind of all picking
our way through.
305
00:21:02,740 --> 00:21:07,880
And it was at that point where we heard
the gunshots.
306
00:21:11,080 --> 00:21:11,400
We
307
00:21:11,400 --> 00:21:18,540
heard
308
00:21:18,540 --> 00:21:19,560
the gunshots.
309
00:21:19,960 --> 00:21:21,320
They were pretty distinct.
310
00:21:21,580 --> 00:21:22,580
Is that what I think it is?
311
00:21:23,160 --> 00:21:26,800
They were farther up the valley, maybe a
half mile or a mile away.
312
00:21:28,040 --> 00:21:30,720
They were just low births of fire.
313
00:21:34,340 --> 00:21:41,080
My heart's racing. I remember kind of
having my own moment of anxiety, you
314
00:21:46,520 --> 00:21:49,960
At that point, our guides simply said
that they weren't going to continue.
315
00:21:55,500 --> 00:21:58,060
And they dropped everything they were
carrying, and they ran.
316
00:21:59,780 --> 00:22:02,900
There was no discussion. They were going
back to Paya. End of story.
317
00:22:04,640 --> 00:22:09,780
In moments, they were gone, and Robert's
gear and our food and everything were
318
00:22:09,780 --> 00:22:10,780
just on the trail.
319
00:22:13,120 --> 00:22:14,120
Mark, are you okay?
320
00:22:14,540 --> 00:22:17,200
And that was Victor and Meg and Robert
and myself.
321
00:22:18,440 --> 00:22:22,300
Before we could really talk about what
we wanted to do and what our plan was,
322
00:22:23,020 --> 00:22:25,400
Two of the men that had passed us
earlier in the day showed up.
323
00:22:29,440 --> 00:22:34,060
One of them was bleeding, and they were
completely terrified.
324
00:22:36,000 --> 00:22:40,520
Apparently they'd been cutting bamboo,
and people had just started shooting at
325
00:22:40,520 --> 00:22:41,520
them. That's all they could say.
326
00:22:42,240 --> 00:22:46,240
And then one of them sort of showed
where the third man had been shot, that
327
00:22:46,240 --> 00:22:47,240
they'd killed him.
328
00:22:49,900 --> 00:22:51,520
And they continued back to Rupaya.
329
00:22:52,090 --> 00:22:53,870
where our guides had just run off to.
330
00:22:56,650 --> 00:22:59,910
I was trying to delay panic. You know, I
figured there'd be time to panic later
331
00:22:59,910 --> 00:23:02,410
on, but at this point we really just
needed to figure out what we were going
332
00:23:02,410 --> 00:23:03,389
do.
333
00:23:03,390 --> 00:23:04,390
What do you think?
334
00:23:05,070 --> 00:23:06,170
Do you think it's the FARC?
335
00:23:06,510 --> 00:23:07,510
Seems likely, huh?
336
00:23:08,490 --> 00:23:11,470
We didn't want to be trying to outrun
them through the jungle. Their first
337
00:23:11,470 --> 00:23:15,110
response would be to fire on anyone that
was trying to move away from them.
338
00:23:15,690 --> 00:23:18,910
You think we could make it back to Paya?
And then Paya was two days away.
339
00:23:19,130 --> 00:23:21,190
That meant a night in the jungle with...
340
00:23:21,550 --> 00:23:24,890
Whoever else was out there. And those
options didn't seem very appealing.
341
00:23:25,310 --> 00:23:26,310
So what do you think?
342
00:23:28,210 --> 00:23:29,610
I remember being quiet.
343
00:23:31,050 --> 00:23:35,390
I remember not really saying much. I
just kind of went back into myself.
344
00:23:37,310 --> 00:23:38,770
This wasn't really my game.
345
00:23:41,370 --> 00:23:43,930
Robert was the one that suggested... I
think we keep going.
346
00:23:45,250 --> 00:23:46,250
Toward the ambush.
347
00:23:48,950 --> 00:23:50,610
It'll be safer than to, uh...
348
00:23:51,230 --> 00:23:52,230
To turn back.
349
00:23:52,350 --> 00:23:53,350
What about Victor?
350
00:23:54,970 --> 00:23:55,970
We stayed together.
351
00:23:56,310 --> 00:23:57,970
Mark, are you happy with that?
352
00:23:59,450 --> 00:24:00,450
I'm scared.
353
00:24:00,810 --> 00:24:03,290
But this was something I kind of hoped
to encounter.
354
00:24:03,590 --> 00:24:05,890
A true, true, true test.
355
00:24:07,250 --> 00:24:08,750
Okay, so we're all agreed.
356
00:24:09,630 --> 00:24:13,310
It was that important to me that I could
deal with whatever it was down the
357
00:24:13,310 --> 00:24:14,310
trail.
358
00:24:17,830 --> 00:24:19,470
There was a lot of internal monologue.
359
00:24:20,840 --> 00:24:24,400
I was thinking about the fact that maybe
their first response was going to be to
360
00:24:24,400 --> 00:24:25,400
open fire.
361
00:24:28,580 --> 00:24:34,440
Robert suggested that we speak loudly so
they would have ample warning before we
362
00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:36,880
encountered whoever it was that had been
shooting.
363
00:24:37,440 --> 00:24:38,980
All right, where are we going, Victor?
364
00:24:39,700 --> 00:24:40,700
Where are we going?
365
00:24:42,120 --> 00:24:44,660
I was kind of reaching a bit of a
breaking point.
366
00:24:47,690 --> 00:24:48,629
Keep talking.
367
00:24:48,630 --> 00:24:54,110
Louder. After maybe just 15 or 20
minutes, we made our way up to a bluff.
368
00:24:54,370 --> 00:24:58,050
And Robert, I think, actually said, This
would be a really good place for an
369
00:24:58,050 --> 00:24:59,050
ambulance.
370
00:24:59,450 --> 00:25:03,190
And four soldiers just materialized.
They just stood up.
371
00:25:07,770 --> 00:25:10,510
True hair. Young, probably all in their
early 20s.
372
00:25:15,720 --> 00:25:19,260
And I remember very distinctly that the
soldier just directly in front of me had
373
00:25:19,260 --> 00:25:22,820
a green bandana and a single blue
feather right in the middle, kind of
374
00:25:25,140 --> 00:25:29,960
Their arms pointed their guns at us. We
had our hands up, and we took off our
375
00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:31,360
bag, and then we sat down.
376
00:25:34,740 --> 00:25:37,340
At that point, the soldiers were just
immediately on their radios.
377
00:25:44,939 --> 00:25:46,320
We were thinking they were the FARC.
378
00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:51,220
Victor was the one with the FARC
contact, and now we were going to fall
379
00:25:51,220 --> 00:25:54,200
Victor's relationship and then also
Robert as a journalist.
380
00:25:56,420 --> 00:25:59,640
They wanted to kind of figure out who we
were.
381
00:26:01,800 --> 00:26:07,280
Robert had articles, and he kind of
wanted to demonstrate to them that he
382
00:26:07,280 --> 00:26:08,280
actually was a journalist.
383
00:26:09,700 --> 00:26:11,980
But they weren't too interested in our
story.
384
00:26:17,509 --> 00:26:21,450
They started this casual conversation
about tiger meat, tigre.
385
00:26:22,150 --> 00:26:24,530
And they asked Victor if he'd ever had
tigre.
386
00:26:25,590 --> 00:26:28,470
Victor said, yeah, yeah, it's very rich,
it's very rich. And they said, yeah,
387
00:26:28,470 --> 00:26:29,810
yeah, yeah, we really like tigers.
388
00:26:30,830 --> 00:26:32,290
They said, tigers eat tigers.
389
00:26:32,730 --> 00:26:34,890
You know, predators eat predators.
390
00:26:36,150 --> 00:26:40,590
From there, they went on to say that
they'd just seen tiger.
391
00:26:40,850 --> 00:26:43,290
In fact, they'd shot at one in the
jungle.
392
00:26:43,950 --> 00:26:46,810
And they kind of hinted at whether or
not we'd heard the gunfire.
393
00:26:47,130 --> 00:26:48,130
No, no, no.
394
00:26:48,310 --> 00:26:52,050
No, no. We said no. We all had the good
sense to keep our mouths shut.
395
00:26:57,590 --> 00:27:00,650
After about an hour of waiting around,
another group of soldiers arrived.
396
00:27:01,830 --> 00:27:05,890
Now there was maybe 30 or 40 soldiers,
like, right where we were.
397
00:27:06,830 --> 00:27:08,310
We don't know what the hell is going on.
398
00:27:11,090 --> 00:27:12,550
They separate us from Big Sur.
399
00:27:19,000 --> 00:27:22,520
Victor was nervous from the beginning,
and I could kind of see it on his face.
400
00:27:24,180 --> 00:27:27,920
He was too far away to hear what he was
saying, but he was talking to the squad
401
00:27:27,920 --> 00:27:28,920
commander.
402
00:27:34,820 --> 00:27:41,780
Eventually, Victor came back, and the
squad commander launched
403
00:27:41,780 --> 00:27:42,719
into this.
404
00:27:42,720 --> 00:27:45,760
speech about the Revolutionary Armed
Forces of Colombia, the FARC.
405
00:27:47,460 --> 00:27:51,340
They were members of the FARC. They were
there to protect the people of
406
00:27:51,340 --> 00:27:52,340
Colombia.
407
00:27:53,780 --> 00:27:55,140
And we listened.
408
00:27:59,120 --> 00:28:04,060
When he was done speaking, Victor
started speaking to me in English.
409
00:28:08,980 --> 00:28:12,120
He was trying to appear casual, but he
was struggling.
410
00:28:12,670 --> 00:28:14,330
He was really trying to pick his words
carefully.
411
00:28:15,190 --> 00:28:22,090
He told me they didn't trust him, and he
412
00:28:22,090 --> 00:28:23,590
didn't know them, that he was worried.
413
00:28:24,530 --> 00:28:26,050
At that point, I was really confused.
414
00:28:27,410 --> 00:28:28,830
Victor didn't know who they were.
415
00:28:29,310 --> 00:28:32,470
They claimed they were FARC, but they
were making up stories about shooting in
416
00:28:32,470 --> 00:28:33,470
the jungle.
417
00:28:33,790 --> 00:28:37,410
They haven't killed us, that's good, but
it was another story now.
418
00:28:38,010 --> 00:28:39,250
How are we going to get out of this?
419
00:28:49,580 --> 00:28:54,340
They wanted to see our maps, and they
had some questions about Paya and who
420
00:28:54,340 --> 00:28:55,340
there and what was there.
421
00:28:56,900 --> 00:29:02,660
They decided that they were going into
Panama for themselves, but they needed a
422
00:29:02,660 --> 00:29:04,020
guide to retrace our steps.
423
00:29:07,240 --> 00:29:08,240
What did he say?
424
00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:10,520
He said they want to take Victor with
them to Panama.
425
00:29:11,600 --> 00:29:12,680
There was a brief argument.
426
00:29:14,960 --> 00:29:19,360
We were pretty emphatic about it, but
Victor didn't really say much of
427
00:29:19,360 --> 00:29:20,159
on his behalf.
428
00:29:20,160 --> 00:29:23,260
I think at that point he realized that
things were beyond his control.
429
00:29:28,480 --> 00:29:32,060
I mean, we really pleaded with him, but
they assured us, they said, it's not to
430
00:29:32,060 --> 00:29:33,420
worry, we're just going to secure the
area.
431
00:29:35,900 --> 00:29:38,640
The situation that I put myself in.
432
00:29:39,160 --> 00:29:42,400
Decision after decision led me to this
point of running into the park.
433
00:29:43,940 --> 00:29:48,280
This is almost exactly what I thought
might happen. Did I not realize the
434
00:29:48,280 --> 00:29:49,280
seriousness of this?
435
00:29:53,140 --> 00:29:54,220
I was really worried.
436
00:29:54,980 --> 00:29:57,360
I was convinced Victor was probably
dead.
437
00:30:05,320 --> 00:30:07,180
We more or less stayed.
438
00:30:07,800 --> 00:30:08,920
put right where we were.
439
00:30:10,260 --> 00:30:14,800
They put us right in the middle of this
group of soldiers, maybe 20, so we slept
440
00:30:14,800 --> 00:30:15,800
surrounded.
441
00:30:18,700 --> 00:30:20,960
No one was going to sneak off in the
middle of the night.
442
00:30:21,580 --> 00:30:23,540
And I don't remember sleeping a lot that
night.
443
00:30:25,640 --> 00:30:28,800
The soldiers, they would pull guard duty
all night.
444
00:30:29,780 --> 00:30:33,960
Every couple hours, four or five
soldiers would get up and go in and take
445
00:30:34,040 --> 00:30:35,220
and four or five more would come back.
446
00:30:36,270 --> 00:30:37,470
I don't know what they wanted.
447
00:30:38,430 --> 00:30:41,070
I don't know what we would do if we were
permanently held.
448
00:30:42,890 --> 00:30:46,830
To be so foolish as to just stumble
across a border the way we did.
449
00:30:48,610 --> 00:30:53,210
Our ability to make choices ended once
we walked down the trail.
450
00:30:59,930 --> 00:31:01,230
In the morning, they moved us.
451
00:31:02,170 --> 00:31:04,750
It was very warm, and there was a
particular smell in the area.
452
00:31:05,420 --> 00:31:08,560
It could have been anything, but it
smelled like
453
00:31:08,560 --> 00:31:12,480
death.
454
00:31:13,700 --> 00:31:15,560
It's something that happened at that
location.
455
00:31:17,920 --> 00:31:21,140
The two men that had run back and the
third that had been killed, we saw their
456
00:31:21,140 --> 00:31:23,960
things. They were just kind of torn
open, stewing apart.
457
00:31:28,420 --> 00:31:32,340
His body wasn't there. It was just the
bags that the men had been carrying.
458
00:31:33,320 --> 00:31:34,740
But it felt like a body.
459
00:31:35,360 --> 00:31:36,780
Their things felt like a body.
460
00:31:45,080 --> 00:31:50,200
At that point, we were kind of with this
small group of soldiers, kind of made a
461
00:31:50,200 --> 00:31:53,440
camp there in the jungle, and we just
waited.
462
00:31:56,920 --> 00:32:01,380
So I'm thinking, okay, so this is the
FARC, the left wing, you know, the
463
00:32:01,380 --> 00:32:04,260
fighters. They were young, really young.
464
00:32:04,830 --> 00:32:05,709
Kids, really.
465
00:32:05,710 --> 00:32:07,710
16, 17, 18 years old.
466
00:32:09,310 --> 00:32:13,250
I wasn't an expert about the FARC, but I
had some pretty pointed questions, kind
467
00:32:13,250 --> 00:32:14,250
of philosophical stuff.
468
00:32:16,370 --> 00:32:20,550
But any conversation that I tried to
engage them with, it didn't go anywhere.
469
00:32:24,310 --> 00:32:28,710
They were curious about Robert's iPod.
They wanted to talk about music.
470
00:32:29,050 --> 00:32:30,850
They wanted to talk about their
families.
471
00:32:37,260 --> 00:32:40,840
At night, they were kind of jumpy, and I
think that just comes with being in the
472
00:32:40,840 --> 00:32:42,180
jungle for as long as they've been.
473
00:32:44,340 --> 00:32:46,980
It was just on the edge of darkness. I
became aware of this really distinct
474
00:32:46,980 --> 00:32:47,980
noise.
475
00:32:52,180 --> 00:32:58,640
And I asked if anyone else heard it. It
was distant, but it was
476
00:32:58,640 --> 00:32:59,640
low.
477
00:33:04,750 --> 00:33:08,410
It kept building in intensity over the
span of maybe four or five minutes.
478
00:33:09,430 --> 00:33:13,750
The soldiers started to become alarmed
because it continued to get louder and
479
00:33:13,750 --> 00:33:14,750
louder and louder.
480
00:33:16,330 --> 00:33:17,350
Was that a helicopter?
481
00:33:17,670 --> 00:33:21,170
We're thinking maybe it was a
helicopter, but the sound was becoming
482
00:33:21,170 --> 00:33:22,170
complex.
483
00:33:25,290 --> 00:33:28,750
There was this kind of clicking, almost
like a metallic sound.
484
00:33:30,750 --> 00:33:35,110
Now the soldiers are totally spooked,
and their little squad leader is telling
485
00:33:35,110 --> 00:33:37,270
them to take position, and they don't
want to go.
486
00:33:38,290 --> 00:33:42,110
We're all like, what do you think it is?
Robert looks at us, and he says, Sounds
487
00:33:42,110 --> 00:33:46,530
like a column of men coming toward us.
And I listen, and it's just right there.
488
00:33:46,630 --> 00:33:47,630
Yeah.
489
00:33:48,470 --> 00:33:52,990
Of course, it's a massive amount of
soldiers running toward us through the
490
00:33:52,990 --> 00:33:53,990
forest.
491
00:34:06,440 --> 00:34:12,060
And then the noise just rose to a level
where the soldiers just opened up.
492
00:34:15,199 --> 00:34:18,760
Robert, like, get as far away from the
muzzle blast as possible.
493
00:34:19,300 --> 00:34:23,300
I have a very clear memory of trying to
literally, like, bury my head in a
494
00:34:23,300 --> 00:34:24,300
jungle.
495
00:34:28,300 --> 00:34:31,239
And it keeps firing, and there's just
silence.
496
00:34:31,840 --> 00:34:33,060
Just complete silence.
497
00:34:39,370 --> 00:34:45,290
And then someone says, it's pigs, wild
pigs.
498
00:34:45,530 --> 00:34:47,190
And that's exactly what it was.
499
00:34:56,510 --> 00:34:59,190
The days continued to come and go.
500
00:34:59,710 --> 00:35:02,650
It became fatiguing. It was kind of
wearing on my psyche.
501
00:35:05,530 --> 00:35:08,130
It became more and more serious.
502
00:35:08,940 --> 00:35:10,300
because we weren't getting handed over.
503
00:35:12,840 --> 00:35:15,800
We would hear helicopters, you know,
Blackhawks had like a really distinct
504
00:35:15,800 --> 00:35:17,860
to them, kind of real low, throaty.
505
00:35:19,620 --> 00:35:23,780
We'd all kind of look at it, but it's
impossible for them to see us.
506
00:35:32,080 --> 00:35:35,320
We were certainly kind of under guard,
but we weren't restrained.
507
00:35:35,760 --> 00:35:36,960
Our hands were never bound.
508
00:35:41,150 --> 00:35:44,630
We also really didn't talk about
escaping. That was a step that I don't
509
00:35:44,630 --> 00:35:45,890
were prepared to even think about.
510
00:35:46,770 --> 00:35:47,810
There was opportunities.
511
00:35:49,010 --> 00:35:51,870
They were kind of careless with their
weapons. They didn't leave them around.
512
00:35:52,270 --> 00:35:53,410
Sometimes they'd forget them.
513
00:35:55,090 --> 00:35:56,810
But then once you escape, where do you
go?
514
00:35:57,230 --> 00:36:01,090
We didn't have provisions on us. Then we
really would have been on our own.
515
00:36:03,230 --> 00:36:05,770
Frankly, we didn't have a lot of our own
survival skills.
516
00:36:10,150 --> 00:36:13,410
Then, that evening, another group of
soldiers arrived.
517
00:36:13,770 --> 00:36:17,170
They were the soldiers that went into
Panama.
518
00:36:18,770 --> 00:36:23,390
They had heavier mortars, Russian squad
machine guns.
519
00:36:25,050 --> 00:36:28,930
The commander that originally took
Victor reassures us that Victor is going
520
00:36:28,930 --> 00:36:30,450
be coming along any minute.
521
00:36:31,970 --> 00:36:34,150
It's a man. All of our electronic
equipment.
522
00:36:35,050 --> 00:36:38,210
They took our media, our passports.
523
00:36:39,630 --> 00:36:40,630
Everything we had.
524
00:36:41,270 --> 00:36:43,970
The level of anxiety, it's gradually
building.
525
00:36:45,970 --> 00:36:48,650
Like, grab your bag, get your stuff, we
need to leave.
526
00:36:54,830 --> 00:36:58,390
As we were climbing out of this
ridgeline, Robert and I began this
527
00:36:58,610 --> 00:37:04,130
which was basically, how do we really
know these people are who they say they
528
00:37:04,130 --> 00:37:05,130
are?
529
00:37:05,630 --> 00:37:08,850
We thought if we were going to run into
somebody, it would be the part.
530
00:37:09,390 --> 00:37:12,650
But I remember Victor was nervous from
the beginning that he didn't really know
531
00:37:12,650 --> 00:37:13,650
who they were.
532
00:37:15,290 --> 00:37:16,810
When he left, he was really quiet.
533
00:37:17,630 --> 00:37:19,090
I'm certain he feared for his life.
534
00:37:20,130 --> 00:37:23,590
It's possible he was thinking they were
the sworn enemy of the FARC
535
00:37:23,590 --> 00:37:25,770
paramilitaries.
536
00:37:26,530 --> 00:37:29,470
I knew there were rumors about them
using chainsaws on people.
537
00:37:31,990 --> 00:37:37,330
I was familiar with the paramilitaries,
the right wing, death squad.
538
00:37:39,280 --> 00:37:41,100
I was aware that their tactics were
horrifying.
539
00:37:42,100 --> 00:37:47,360
They wanted support in the rural areas,
and they were willing to do anything to
540
00:37:47,360 --> 00:37:48,360
get that.
541
00:37:49,020 --> 00:37:53,920
It was pretty rare that paramilitaries
would take people and then release them.
542
00:37:54,960 --> 00:37:57,360
Now I have no idea what was going to
happen next.
543
00:38:03,640 --> 00:38:06,780
We hiked all night.
544
00:38:10,770 --> 00:38:13,830
Moving at night, you just follow the
soldier in front of you.
545
00:38:15,690 --> 00:38:17,230
You can't see anything.
546
00:38:18,650 --> 00:38:20,410
Just pitch black dark.
547
00:38:21,130 --> 00:38:24,790
Nobody can use a flashlight because
there was potential to run into other
548
00:38:24,790 --> 00:38:25,790
groups.
549
00:38:27,610 --> 00:38:29,250
It just feels like it's never going to
end.
550
00:38:38,010 --> 00:38:43,210
Finally, We arrived at the village that
was kind of our original destination in
551
00:38:43,210 --> 00:38:44,210
Columbia.
552
00:38:45,110 --> 00:38:49,190
We come out onto this really large
soccer field, and there's dozens of
553
00:38:49,190 --> 00:38:52,610
already sacked out on the field, and we
just crashed.
554
00:38:56,230 --> 00:38:59,190
We're all beyond words, just so
fatigued.
555
00:39:06,590 --> 00:39:08,670
I don't remember sleeping. I must have.
556
00:39:09,020 --> 00:39:13,380
But just a couple hours later, 4 or 5 in
the morning, the soldier woke me up.
557
00:39:15,200 --> 00:39:17,280
There was about six soldiers.
558
00:39:17,740 --> 00:39:19,160
I didn't recognize any of them.
559
00:39:19,400 --> 00:39:20,500
These guys were older.
560
00:39:20,840 --> 00:39:23,180
They meant business, and they told us to
get up.
561
00:39:24,420 --> 00:39:27,760
Of course, at that point, it's just
like, what, are you kidding me? Like, we
562
00:39:27,760 --> 00:39:31,000
hiked all night. We've only slept for a
couple hours, and we're moving again.
563
00:39:33,200 --> 00:39:36,620
I'm waking up now, and I'm kind of
realizing that this isn't probably the
564
00:39:36,620 --> 00:39:37,620
situation.
565
00:39:38,060 --> 00:39:39,060
I don't know these guys.
566
00:39:40,040 --> 00:39:43,040
They're not the soldiers that we kind of
had a relationship with.
567
00:39:43,380 --> 00:39:49,760
It just becomes apparent. For whatever
reason, they don't want us to be seen by
568
00:39:49,760 --> 00:39:50,760
anybody in the village.
569
00:39:52,040 --> 00:39:55,020
At this point, I'm consciously fearful
for my life.
570
00:39:58,740 --> 00:40:02,620
They take us to a graveyard, to the Kuna
burial site. It's outside the village.
571
00:40:04,300 --> 00:40:06,700
I look at Megan. I'm just like, what do
you think?
572
00:40:07,309 --> 00:40:10,370
And Meg has this kind of, like, way of
putting things. She's like, I don't
573
00:40:10,490 --> 00:40:11,930
She's like, I think they're going to do
it.
574
00:40:12,970 --> 00:40:13,970
I'm like, really?
575
00:40:14,230 --> 00:40:15,230
I think you're right.
576
00:40:15,790 --> 00:40:19,370
Like, that's exactly how I feel. I mean,
like, is this it? Is it how it's going
577
00:40:19,370 --> 00:40:20,229
to go down?
578
00:40:20,230 --> 00:40:22,130
And she's like, I don't know. That's
what it feels like.
579
00:40:23,670 --> 00:40:26,150
I was like, now I know what's going to
happen. They're going to kill us.
580
00:40:29,730 --> 00:40:32,130
They kept telling us they were going to
release us, and they never did. We've
581
00:40:32,130 --> 00:40:33,130
been in the jungle days.
582
00:40:33,530 --> 00:40:35,070
And now we're in a graveyard.
583
00:40:35,470 --> 00:40:36,470
They took our media.
584
00:40:37,210 --> 00:40:38,710
So there's no evidence now.
585
00:40:39,110 --> 00:40:40,710
They have everything. They have us.
586
00:40:41,010 --> 00:40:42,010
We're going to be shot.
587
00:40:56,710 --> 00:40:57,710
So we waited.
588
00:41:00,690 --> 00:41:06,030
And four or five soldiers showed up, and
they took me.
589
00:41:06,430 --> 00:41:07,430
by myself.
590
00:41:10,830 --> 00:41:17,570
And Meg was just like...
591
00:41:17,570 --> 00:41:21,170
She just said goodbye to me.
592
00:41:21,810 --> 00:41:25,150
They both said goodbye to me.
593
00:41:27,410 --> 00:41:33,350
It was... I went with them. I left.
594
00:41:39,520 --> 00:41:41,560
Now I know what's going to happen.
They're going to kill us.
595
00:41:43,020 --> 00:41:45,180
I don't know why, but they're going to
kill us.
596
00:41:49,740 --> 00:41:51,360
I kind of gave up at that point.
597
00:41:51,880 --> 00:41:55,760
I feel kind of, in a weird way, ready. I
mean, maybe this is how it should have
598
00:41:55,760 --> 00:41:58,100
been. I mean, I'm back in Columbia,
right?
599
00:41:58,680 --> 00:42:03,360
Things have kind of come around, you
know?
600
00:42:06,000 --> 00:42:08,660
You always think you try to run, grab a
weapon or something.
601
00:42:09,180 --> 00:42:12,220
But oddly enough, that wasn't on my
mind.
602
00:42:13,920 --> 00:42:17,340
I just figured that they were going to
take me into the jungle and put me on my
603
00:42:17,340 --> 00:42:18,480
knees and put a bullet in my head.
604
00:42:27,480 --> 00:42:31,540
They took me out onto the riverbank.
Most of the entire guerrilla detachment
605
00:42:31,540 --> 00:42:32,238
right there.
606
00:42:32,240 --> 00:42:34,140
And another superior had showed up.
607
00:42:34,780 --> 00:42:38,480
And they sat me down, like, right in the
middle.
608
00:42:38,880 --> 00:42:41,380
And now it's just like, well, what's
going to happen next?
609
00:42:42,220 --> 00:42:47,760
The commander offered me a cigarette,
and we start this conversation about
610
00:42:47,760 --> 00:42:48,760
politics.
611
00:42:50,840 --> 00:42:52,980
He wants to know what I think about the
paramilitary.
612
00:42:54,100 --> 00:42:55,740
Pretty certain they're not the FARC
anymore.
613
00:42:56,800 --> 00:42:59,020
I told him what I thought about them.
614
00:42:59,860 --> 00:43:02,000
I figured if they wanted to shoot me,
they could shoot me.
615
00:43:02,640 --> 00:43:06,420
I told him that the paramilitary was
probably the biggest problem in Colombia
616
00:43:06,420 --> 00:43:07,420
that time.
617
00:43:08,700 --> 00:43:11,560
the assassinations and the murders and
the massacres.
618
00:43:13,140 --> 00:43:15,080
I just sort of gave him a piece of my
mind.
619
00:43:15,920 --> 00:43:17,640
I think I probably was ranting.
620
00:43:20,280 --> 00:43:23,820
And partway through the rant, this
commander kind of interrupts me
621
00:43:23,820 --> 00:43:30,780
and pulls off his T -shirt
622
00:43:30,780 --> 00:43:31,780
and like, there it is.
623
00:43:34,500 --> 00:43:36,400
We're paramilitary.
624
00:43:37,600 --> 00:43:41,300
Let's go on crossbones with kind of
their little tag. What do you think
625
00:43:41,300 --> 00:43:42,300
that?
626
00:43:46,060 --> 00:43:48,200
He said, I'd take the cigarette now.
627
00:43:54,300 --> 00:43:55,980
I'd just run my mouth off.
628
00:43:56,420 --> 00:43:57,580
That was a big joke.
629
00:43:59,540 --> 00:44:03,580
It became clear that they'd gotten
instruction to play along with his fart
630
00:44:03,580 --> 00:44:04,640
storyline.
631
00:44:06,670 --> 00:44:08,870
And the joke really was on me, but I
laughed too.
632
00:44:10,830 --> 00:44:14,030
Once everybody kind of laughed at me, I
kind of became convinced that they
633
00:44:14,030 --> 00:44:15,270
thought we were completely harmless.
634
00:44:20,490 --> 00:44:22,570
Robert and Meg were down the riverbank
when they saw me.
635
00:44:24,230 --> 00:44:25,910
They were surprised to see me alive.
636
00:44:28,390 --> 00:44:30,870
Tell us that we can go.
637
00:44:35,370 --> 00:44:36,710
I almost couldn't believe it.
638
00:44:43,110 --> 00:44:46,050
The next day, there were some people
here to pick us up.
639
00:44:46,910 --> 00:44:51,110
We thought it was going to be the Red
Cross, but it was a Colombian priest and
640
00:44:51,110 --> 00:44:52,470
nun from a convent.
641
00:44:54,790 --> 00:44:58,450
I hadn't really gotten time to really
think about what had happened.
642
00:45:00,290 --> 00:45:01,450
I was still wound up.
643
00:45:03,240 --> 00:45:08,120
It was just a huge continuum of emotion.
It was like dread and then relief.
644
00:45:14,240 --> 00:45:17,600
I felt like there was going to be a
point where I would have to kind of dump
645
00:45:17,600 --> 00:45:19,320
of the stress and anxiety I was feeling.
646
00:45:19,540 --> 00:45:21,840
But at that point, I was hanging in
there, I think.
647
00:45:22,280 --> 00:45:23,280
I was hanging in there.
648
00:45:25,100 --> 00:45:28,580
We were out of the jungle, and we were
definitely in Columbia.
649
00:45:35,660 --> 00:45:37,760
The U .S. Embassy sent the jet for us.
650
00:45:38,180 --> 00:45:41,820
And then, same day, they fly us to
Bogota.
651
00:45:44,060 --> 00:45:49,760
They sit us right down in office, and
they're just all ears.
652
00:45:51,260 --> 00:45:55,360
They want to know everything.
653
00:45:56,060 --> 00:45:58,880
At that point, the cracks are starting.
654
00:45:59,120 --> 00:46:00,300
I was starting to feel burnout.
655
00:46:02,340 --> 00:46:04,140
And there were a lot of questions about
Victor.
656
00:46:04,650 --> 00:46:05,650
Where did you meet him?
657
00:46:05,910 --> 00:46:08,850
There are questions about how we met
him. He's one of the locals in Kapati.
658
00:46:09,090 --> 00:46:10,910
What he'd done in certain situations.
659
00:46:11,250 --> 00:46:12,250
You okay?
660
00:46:12,510 --> 00:46:13,810
You haven't heard what happened?
661
00:46:15,050 --> 00:46:20,410
It was then that we got the full story
about what had happened after Victor
662
00:46:20,410 --> 00:46:21,610
with the paramilitary.
663
00:46:24,350 --> 00:46:26,390
They got Victor to lead them back into
Panama.
664
00:46:26,630 --> 00:46:29,950
And when they got to Paya, there was
kind of a celebration underway.
665
00:46:33,870 --> 00:46:37,010
For whatever reason, they didn't like
the cooperation they were getting.
666
00:46:39,810 --> 00:46:42,450
The chief was killed by the
paramilitaries.
667
00:46:45,130 --> 00:46:46,430
His son was left for dead.
668
00:46:48,170 --> 00:46:52,090
From there, they left Paya, and they
went even deeper into Panama, all the
669
00:46:52,090 --> 00:46:53,090
to Pucuru.
670
00:46:53,570 --> 00:46:57,430
I'm guessing if Victor wasn't convinced
before that he was a dead man, he's
671
00:46:57,430 --> 00:46:58,750
absolutely convinced now.
672
00:46:59,910 --> 00:47:01,590
So, Victor escapes.
673
00:47:02,430 --> 00:47:06,930
Somewhere between Paya and Pukuru,
there's like a 50 -year -old man trying
674
00:47:06,930 --> 00:47:13,710
outrun an entire squad of hardened,
trained paramilitary soldiers in the
675
00:47:13,710 --> 00:47:16,050
jungle. And he outruns them.
676
00:47:17,770 --> 00:47:21,750
Warns the village. And by the time the
paramilitary show up, the village is
677
00:47:21,750 --> 00:47:22,930
empty. They looted.
678
00:47:24,990 --> 00:47:29,270
Burned a couple of the buildings to the
ground and left. We burned a couple of
679
00:47:29,270 --> 00:47:31,610
buildings to the ground and left.
680
00:47:32,490 --> 00:47:33,970
They took what they wanted.
681
00:47:34,370 --> 00:47:38,050
When I heard about what happened, I
blamed myself.
682
00:47:39,610 --> 00:47:41,130
This was an act of terrorism.
683
00:47:42,250 --> 00:47:44,930
It was the first paramilitary incursion
into Panama.
684
00:47:45,830 --> 00:47:47,310
Our guides were from Paya.
685
00:47:47,990 --> 00:47:49,370
There had been people killed.
686
00:47:50,730 --> 00:47:53,450
I mean, everything kind of fell away.
687
00:47:54,230 --> 00:47:55,590
The room started spinning.
688
00:47:57,010 --> 00:47:59,690
I just felt suddenly really horrible.
689
00:48:01,710 --> 00:48:04,850
I could just feel a fever coming on, and
they asked me, are you okay?
690
00:48:05,050 --> 00:48:05,988
I'm like, no.
691
00:48:05,990 --> 00:48:06,990
I need to lie down.
692
00:48:07,090 --> 00:48:13,590
They sat me down, and this
693
00:48:13,590 --> 00:48:17,530
nurse came in. She just said, what
happened to you?
694
00:48:19,050 --> 00:48:20,550
I completely lost it.
695
00:48:22,070 --> 00:48:23,710
I just cried. It felt really good.
696
00:48:24,710 --> 00:48:29,650
I couldn't explain to her what had
happened to me because I didn't know
697
00:48:29,650 --> 00:48:30,650
happened to me.
698
00:48:31,470 --> 00:48:32,890
but I'd made it to where I wanted to be.
699
00:48:33,210 --> 00:48:34,470
I was back in Columbia.
700
00:48:35,210 --> 00:48:36,970
That in itself was kind of overwhelming.
701
00:48:40,510 --> 00:48:43,150
Literally, I just had this day in
Bogota, and that was it.
702
00:48:45,450 --> 00:48:48,530
I got a cab, and I went to a central
park in the middle of the city.
703
00:48:49,010 --> 00:48:50,690
I walked, I sat on a bench.
704
00:48:52,630 --> 00:48:56,890
I had more questions sitting on that
bench than I did when I left.
705
00:48:59,290 --> 00:49:00,470
There had been people killed.
706
00:49:00,920 --> 00:49:02,380
And maybe it was our fault.
707
00:49:03,860 --> 00:49:10,340
Whether or not the paramilitaries would
have gone into Panama without us is up
708
00:49:10,340 --> 00:49:13,360
for argument, but I felt responsible for
what happened.
709
00:49:16,860 --> 00:49:22,120
Even eight years later, I still think
about it. I still think about the
710
00:49:22,120 --> 00:49:24,540
I made to take that trip.
711
00:49:27,000 --> 00:49:29,180
I'd gotten this idea in my head.
712
00:49:29,900 --> 00:49:33,180
That I would personally pay any cost to
cross the Darien.
713
00:49:33,640 --> 00:49:35,680
But in the end, I didn't have to pay it,
really.
714
00:49:38,320 --> 00:49:39,720
Other people paid for it.
57943
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