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ODD FISH

- Well, good morning.
- Good morning.

Catch anything?

Yeah, three and a half tons.

Yeah, wait, when are you closing
for the winter?

- Today's the last day.
- I see.

So I won't have a chance to grab
a meal from you before that?

And?

Well, it's just that I've been
supplying you with quite a lot now.

- You want money?
- No.

Actually, some money would be nice.

- Happy?
- Yes.

Wouldn't it be better to put
this money into the María Júlía?

It's not sufficient for that, buddy.

No, it'd be cheaper just to sink it.

Hjalti, wouldn't it be smarter
to bring her ashore

and display her in town?

No, that wouldn't be smart.

Why not?

Because the wood would dry up
and ruin her.

She's already rotting here anyway.

Well, that's why
I'm trying to save her.

Nobody cares,
and she's just in the way.

She's not bothering anyone,

and she's no more in your way
than your mind.

Here comes my buddy now.

SEPTEMBER

So, what do you have for us today?

- Some beautiful redfish.
- Ok.

They sure are beautiful!

Then just the usual...

Maybe more later.
Has Bjössi arrived yet?

No.

Do you need anything?

Hey.

No, I just stopped by to see my dad.

Butter?

Okay, I'll take care of it.

Hey.

Hey?

- Anything I can do for you?
- I'm just here to pick up the butter.

- Oh?
- Didn't Hjalti speak to you?

No.

I'm just pulling your leg.

How about some coffee?
You're not in a hurry, are you?

- Hey.
- Hey.

- So, you finally decided to show up?
- Lúlú, it was just two minutes.

Still, those minutes counted.

Listen, you've got to whip up
some dressing, pronto.

Yes.

Step on it, dear,
and go straight into fourth gear.

- How's it going?
- Two hundred people today.

Great.

How do you say fish-drying shed
in English?

Right.

Right.

You guys are something else.

What are you doing, man?
Be careful with your back.

Yeah.

What did the doctor say?

- The doctor?
- Yeah.

Weren't you down south
getting your back checked?

- Uh, yeah.
- Yeah.

You've been there so many times.
They must know something by now.

They think it's arthritis.

Arthritis?

- Yeah.
- Rheumatoid arthritis?

No.

- Osteoarthritis?
- Not sure.

We'll just have to wait and see.

Let's hope it's not
polymyalgia rheumatica.

My mom has that,
and it's really bad.

Dear guests,
welcome to the Red House.

You're fortunate to be here
because it's quite a special day.

It's our last day open
for the summer,

and we're thrilled to see
such a full house.

We'll start with fish soup,

followed by

freshly caught
fish straight from the harbor,

served in pans
and absolutely delicious.

While I'm sure you'll love the soup,

we highly recommend
leaving room for the fish

because it's just as tasty.
Enjoy your meal!

Okay.
What would you like?

What would you like?
Yeah, cod.

Plaice - very tasty.

It's a beautiful plaice.

- What can I bring?
- The plaice.

- Where are the rest of the fish tongues?
- They're almost ready.

Relax. It's not like
it's the end of the world.

You just make them so well
that they go fast.

Hey, tell them to finish their food.

- They're too poorly raised.
- My, oh, my?

I'll tell them.
They won't get any chocolate.

We call it "Steinbítur"
the one who bites stones.

How's your dad doing?

The same.

Right.

- Is he in pain?
- No.

That's good.

Will there be a large crowd tonight?

It's going to be a full house,
my friend.

Great.

- Hello, Björn.
- Hey.

- Here you go.
- Thanks.

Bjössi?

Will you serve soup at the
Rhymester night like last year?

What?

Rhymester night that we had
on the museum last year?

- The Lions evening?
- Yes.

You made a soup.

Yeah, right...

- Will you do it again this year?
- I don't know.

Then who knows?

Well, I'll be!

This looks amazing.

This compass was onboard
Gestur from Vigur.

From Gestur?
That trusty ship.

Do you think you might have
any use for this?

Yes.

Let me tell you,

this is a museum piece
par excellence.

It's exactly what we need.

And it's in great condition, too,
so we'll just give it a polish,

and it'll look brand new.

And I even think it's still accurate.

- You don't say.
- Yeah.

- It's secured between two irons.
- Sure.

- But it's moving slightly.
- Yeah.

Tinna!
You know I'm leaving early today?

- No.
- Oh?

You do now.
Thanks for the summer.

Thanks for the summer.

- That wasn't funny.
- I know, dear.

Thanks for the summer.
It's been great.

- Thank you, too.
- Will I see you again next summer?

- Let's hope so.
- Shouldn't we just decide now?

- Sure.
- You won't get rid of me! Bye!

Aren't you curious
about the summer profit?

How did the summer profit turn out?

At least you won't have to worry
about money this winter.

- Aren't you happy about that?
- Sure.

But what?

I'd like to keep the place
open year-round.

- To have some stability.
- Yeah, but...

Then something has to change
around here.

What are your plans for this winter?

Well, I have to tend to the boats.

I was thinking of adding
an extra pump to the María Júlía

in case the old one fails.

No luck getting grants?

No...

I fear the town
might try to get rid of it.

Then,

the Lifesaving Association women
might come back to haunt me.

I mainly asked to see
if you were going to Reykjavik

to see Fjóla in the winter?

Sure, I'll visit.

How's Styrmir doing?

Styrmir?

- He's okay!
- Just okay?

Well, you know,
he's working through his stuff.

Do you two talk at all?

Yeah, of course, we talk.
He's my son.

You think I don't talk to him?

Well, talking isn't the same
as really talking.

It's just all so strange...

With his health issues
and his being gay.

- Does that bother you?
- No...

I don't mind if it's
some random stranger.

Still it's different
when it's your own kid.

How so?

You just want what's best
for your kid

without making life
any harder than it needs to be.

You know what I mean.

But don't you want to just swing by?

You know Styrmir
isn't up for going west.

But what about you?
Why not just come by yourself,

and we can do something fun?

No, that's not an option right now.
He's been feeling really down lately.

But aren't you planning to come soon?

Yeah, I'll swing by soon.

I'm not just talking about
swinging by, Hjalti.

Aren't you going to come
and live with us?

Yes...

It's been like this
for almost three years.

I can't take it much longer.

Fjóla, you know I have
nothing to do in Reykjavik.

But what about me and the boys?
And the grandchildren?

Yes...

Yes.
You'll have to decide soon.

I can't wait forever.

Wait, are you going somewhere?

You know what I mean.

Either we're together
or we are not.

Yes.

OCTOBER

Well, we've turned him around.

- Does he understand anything I'm saying?
- Yes.

Please try to talk to him.

Hearing is always
the last thing to go.

- Thanks.
- No problem.

- Hello, Hjalti.
- Lilja? Great to see you.

You too.

I was so surprised
to see you in church.

Yeah, it's been ages.

Since last time?

At the Festival of the Sea dance?

Could be. When we ended up drunk
and snuck into that alley.

Jesus, let's not bring that up.

I haven't told a living soul.

- Good, let's just keep it that way.
- Sure.

- Care to join me?
- Yeah.

So, what are you doing here?

I've moved back home.

- Back from Denmark?
- Yeah.

- I just took over the music school.
- I see!

And your family came along?

There's no family, just me.

Where's your husband?

- Addi?
- Yes.

He passed away.

What?

Pancreatic cancer.

Damn!

I'm sorry for your loss.

Thanks.

How about you? I heard you took over
the Maritime Museum.

Yeah, I just took over.

Twenty years ago.

Sorry.
So that just happened yesterday.

And then I was dumb enough
to open a restaurant

in one of the museum buildings.

- You mean the Red House?
- Yes.

But wait,
I thought Björn managed that?

When Bjössi and I were at sea
together, he was always the cook.

When I took over this place,
I tried hosting a saltfish feast.

And got Bjössi to cook.

Turns out the boy isn't just
short-order cook.

Oh no, he was born to do this.

So, Björn handles the cooking,
and what do you do?

Well, Björn is the gourmet chef,
while I'm the captain of the ship.

Well, well...
That's quite something.

Indeed.

How is he holding up?

Times like these are always tough.

But life goes on.

Hi, Dad.

It's me, Björn.

There's so much I want to tell you.

So much I want to thank you for.

Thanks for taking us skiing
and mountain climbing.

Thanks for picking the raisins
from your cake and giving them to me.

I know that was your way
of saying you loved me.

You always knew I was different,

not like the others.

I used to think I was
an elf child under a spell.

And when I learned about what I was,
what I've always been, I panicked.

But now I can't pretend anymore.

This is my voice.

This is how I sound.

Some people might have
kicked me out, but...

with you and Mom,

I was always safe.

I wish we had more time together,

that you could have seen me blossom.

That you could have seen
the real me.

I'll be fine.

We'll all be fine.

Northern lights tourism?
Is that a coming attraction?

- I'm introducing it here.
- Huh?

- A package deal with food and everything.
- No?

We'll kick it off by taking them up
to the cross-country skiing area

- to avoid the town's light pollution.
- Clever.

When they return,
they'll need some refreshments.

- Something classy.
- Yes.

- Something unforgettable.
- Aha.

And I thought about the Red House.

Right.

How many times
did you have in mind?

- The entire winter.
- The entire winter?

The northern lights start in the fall
and end around Easter.

Would that work?

Yeah, you bet.

Perfect.

Look, the first clients will arrive
at the start of the new year,

but before that,
the Danes need to check all services.

- What Danes?
- The Danish travel agency people.

What?

It was a Danish monopolist
who built all the houses around here.

- Now we profit from them.
- Yeah.

But first, you and Bjössi need to
prove yourselves to land this deal.

Sure, it's not our first rodeo.

No, I know.
But I still suggest you should...

What?

Just clean the kitchen more
thoroughly and offer classier wine.

I mean, you can't have some
snobby Danes catching you off guard.

- No, not on my watch.
- No.

- When are they coming?
- End of November.

Think Björn's up for it?

Definitely, you can count on him.

Björn does as he is told.

I can't stand much longer,
this wandering spree.

And then cried old Mundi.

It's plenty, it's plenty.

I can't stand much longer,
this wandering spree...

It's now time we wrap up
this subject.

"Constructing mighty reservoirs,
in the mountain's geography.

Where dogs got lost in days of yore,
to give way to better traffic."

Indriði, go ahead.

"It's fine and well

to mock their engines

But the road to hell
is paved with good intentions."

And that concludes the energy sector.

Now, we move on to the rivals,
Hjalti and Pétur.

Who are set to debate

our national heritage

and progress.

Cheeky bastard.

Well, just you wait.

Dear friends, as you all know,

Pétur was our local
representative,

and during his time in office,
a terrible blunder was made

when restoration grants for boats

were placed under the
Archaeological Heritage Fund.

That's why I've knocked off
a few verses on this issue.

- Sorry I'm a late.
- Who are you?

I'll get to that in a minute.

Where's Björn?

There never was a Björn.

'Björn' was just a disguise
I used to survive.

My name is Birna Kristinsdóttir.

I know this comes
as quite a surprise to most of you,

but this is me.

In fact,
I've always been Birna.

I just wanted to use the opportunity
and come out once and for all,

here in front of my friends
and recite the following:

"Now hear my limerick,
so short and slick,

Of how I'm no longer
sporting a prick.

Oh, what joy to
be done being a dude,

In spring,
I'll stroll around in the nude."

Yes...

Anyway, help yourselves to the soup
and sourdough bread,

along with the homemade
butter from Óskar.

Enjoy your meal.

Look, if this is some joke,
you better tell me now.

I'm dead serious.
This is me.

You?

- You speak like a woman.
- I am a woman.

You've got breasts.

I got breast augmentation
on my last trip to Reykjavík.

Since when are you gay?

I'm not gay, Hjalti.
I'm a trans woman.

- So you don't suck dick?
- Jesus, Hjalti.

- You don't like men?
- I don't have a preference.

- So you prefer women?
- Just as well.

I'm pan, if you must know.

- Pa?
- Pan.

Pansexual.
It's about hearts, not body parts.

Why didn't you ever tell me anything?

I haven't told anyone
except for one friend.

- What friend?
- A trans woman I met in Reykjavik.

What about me?

I've known you my whole life.

Have you been lying to me
for 50 years?

I've been lying to everyone,
especially to myself.

And you're going to stay like this
from now on?

- Yes, then I'll continue.
- Continue where?

Gender affirmation surgery.

I've been on hormones
for over a year now.

That's why I've been going
to Reykjavik so frequently.

So you don't have arthritis?

No, I don't have arthritis.

You sure?

Are you sure you don't have
fucking brain arthritis?

Hjalti!

Because something is really wrong,
Björn Kristinsson,

if you're going to Reykjavik
to have your balls snipped off.

- Balls snipped off?
- Yeah!

It's not like gutting a fish, Hjalti!

It's a major surgery,
and by the way, I'm Birna!

Is this highly risky as well?

Yes, there's always some risk,
but it's either that or the cemetery.

And I'd rather take my chances of
dying as the woman I've always been

than keep on living
as some pretend man.

Great God in heaven!

What the hell is happening?

I know it's quite a shock.

Quite a shock?
I'm having a heart attack here.

I doubt that.

Everything's gone.

First Fjóla and now you,

my best and only friend.

Is there any news about Fjóla?

Fjóla is just...
Fjóla has left.

Left here or left you?

Does it matter?

Yes, it matters.
At least you have a choice.

What a choice.

Leave everything behind,
or stay here with you like this.

Oh, Jesus.

I could always go for the third
option and hang myself in the shed.

Do you really think
that will help anyone?

You're no help at all.

You know,
this is so typical you.

If it's not the booze
or pills or depression,

then it's fucking
nonsense like this.

Just when we might be able
to keep the place open during winter.

- Open during winter?
- Yeah.

What do you mean?

Einar from Western Tours is launching
northern lights tours here,

and he wants the tourists
to eat at our restaurant.

The whole winter?

The whole winter.
You know what that means for us?

But first, the agency needs to come,

check out the place,
taste the food, feel the vibe, and...

- And?
- And?

Yes, and?

Do you really think the vibe
will be all right?

You mean between us?

- Yes.
- Hjalti...

Nothing about our partnership
needs to change.

I'll just turn up and cook
as I've always done,

and you just handle your part.

The only question is,
what do you want, Hjalti?

Do you want this to work?
Because I do.

And I don't just mean the restaurant,
I mean our friendship too.

You wouldn't be the only one
losing a best friend

if we stopped talking.

Hjalti.

- Leave me alone!
- Hjalti.

Leave me alone!

We're so proud of you.

Thanks, it means the world to me.

I really appreciate both of you.

Will I get to cook more?

Well, with more customers,
I'll need extra help with the pans.

Agreed.

What happens next?

First thing, we need
to overhaul the place.

Then, we'll have a trial night.

Finally, the big night
with the Danes,

and if all goes well,
it's just...

This thing here.

Ching ching!

- Good morning, Hjalti.
- Yeah, good morning.

- What have you got there?
- A heater.

If we're going to stay open,
we need to keep the place warm.

It's not insulated,

and the wind comes in
through everywhere.

Got it, thanks.

How do you feel about all this?

It's an adjustment.

Yes...

It's going to be a blast.

Find a spot for this, please.
I've got to run.

Okay, hon.
Take care.

Yes...

Don't worry.
He usually comes around fast.

Yes.
Let's hope so.

NOVEMBER

- Hello.
- Well, hello, laddie...

Um, lassie.

No worries. The Icelandic language
doesn't make it any easier.

No, tell me about it.

One really needs
to make an effort.

Yeah.

Yes...

So, would ye like some coffee?

Sure, thanks.

But there's no need
for the formalities.

I think it looks nice.

Are you already kayaking
around the country?

Yes, I'll be in your town
in a couple of days.

Do you want to catch up
and have a glass of wine then?

Okay, I'm looking forward
to seeing you.

Same here.

Hey there.
One admission?

Yes.

Would you mind changing
the name on the card?

Sure thing.

- It's Birna, right?
- Yes, Kristinsdóttir.

Do you think I could use the private
changing room down the hall?

Just a moment.

Svenni, could you come here
for a moment?

Sure.

- Hey.
- Hey.

Has the shower in the hallway
changing room been fixed?

The disabled one?

No, the plumber has been
dragging his feet.

Have you considered using those?

You know, I don't feel ready yet.

- No worries.
- Is there anything we can do?

It's alright.
I'll just bathe at home.

Maybe just let me know when

the gender-neutral
changing room is ready?

Definitely.

Thanks.

Hey, Hjalti.

So, are you reopening?

I couldn't hear you clearly
when you called.

We were sailing by Straumnes,
and the signal kept cutting out.

It's just polite to answer
when someone talks to you.

Yeah, we got an unexpected
group showing up.

Right, Birna's friends.

Birna's friends?

Transgender people.

Gay people?

I noticed you put up the rainbow flag
at the Red House the other day.

Or is it wrong to say rainbow flag?

What's your problem, man?

I'm only trying to make conversation.

Then talk about the weather
or something.

There's no point talking
about the weather;

the forecast says nothing
but sunshine ahead.

Well, that's something,
isn't it?

Sure, I miss Denmark,
but...

I mostly just miss Addi.

I understand.

But you guys didn't have kids,
did you?

No, no kids.

We tried for a long time
to get pregnant.

Tried everything,

but nothing worked.

It wasn't until
he passed away that I

admitted to myself that,

deep down,
I probably didn't really want kids.

I adore kids.
I work with them every day,

but being a mom
just isn't for me.

I'm sure you can imagine
what people think about that.

Their opinion of a woman
who doesn't want kids.

I'm quite familiar with people
having opinions

about who I am
and how I am.

But I've always wanted
to be a mother.

My heart sinks
every time

I see a pregnant woman
on the street because...

I know I can never become like her.

How's your treatment going?

It's going fine.

Though, I'm still adjusting
to the hormones and all.

It feels like puberty all over again.

I even found myself crying at
a shampoo commercial the other day.

Those damn hormones.

It'll be such a relief

to finally be rid of this damn
birth defect.

Speaking of "defects".

How are things between you
and Hjalti?

Wow, I'm not sure where to begin.

We had a big row the other day,

so now we're only communicating
through text messages.

Besides, his life's such
a mess at the moment, poor guy.

He and his wife, Fjóla,

have been in a long-distance
relationship for a few years now.

Why's that?

Their youngest son, Styrmir,

was bullied so horribly at the
elementary school here that

Fjóla felt the only option was to
take him to Reykjavik

for proper support.

And Hjalti just stayed behind.

Why isn't he with them in Reykjavik?

Good question.

Over here, he's a big fish
in a small pond,

and he's not great at dealing with
his own or others' feelings.

So, how's their marriage?

Their marriage?

The less said, the better.

Speak of the devil.

He didn't even notice us.

A bit heavy-footed, aren't you.

What brings you here?

I was walking the dog
and spotted this girl smoking here.

We were just chatting about
French wines and stuff.

French wines?

I heard you're expecting
company from Copenhagen.

Birna insisted I join you.

- She speaks Danish.
- Yeah.

You hiring people now?

I offered to help,

but I don't want to rock the boat.

You're not rocking my boat.

Maybe you could join us tonight too?

We're trying out new dishes

and could use some
professional advice on wine.

I'm no expert, though.
No sommelier.

At least you know more
than Hjalti and me.

Well, thanks for the offer,

but if everyone's not okay
with me being here.

No, not at all.
I'd be happy to have you.

We're just having our usual
back-and-forth.

So, you start with the oil?

Yes, then you add the butter.
Otherwise, it'll burn.

Hjalti, have you filleted
the wolffish yet?

Almost done.

- Hi, how's it going?
- Hi.

Oh, so it's like that.

Maybe you should keep
the white wine by Hjalti.

It seems he's just
the right temperature.

Maybe we should wait outside?

We still need to prep everything.

Okay, got it.

Listen, we get to
chop the vegetables.

How great.

How are you anyway?

How did it go bringing
Jóhanna ashore?

Just fine.

And is the engine working alright,
and the wheelhouse?

- Yeah, she sailed like an angel.
- Great.

She's such a beautiful boat.

Yeah, she is.

Hjalti.

Aren't you going to try?

Try what?

What else am I doing if not trying?

Alright.

Have it your way.

Yeah, that's exactly
what I had in mind.

Hey, Styrmir.

How are you doing, son?

I'm fine.

So, are you planning to visit soon?
Your grandma and I miss you.

No, Dad.
I don't feel up to it.

Don't feel up to it?

What do you mean? Didn't you enjoy it
here last Christmas?

No, I didn't feel good at Christmas,

and I don't want to
come back this time.

What do you mean,
not coming back?

Come back west this Christmas.

You want to stay in Reykjavik
for Christmas?

Yeah, Mom does too.

Did your mom say that?

Yes, we both want to spend
Christmas in Reykjavik.

Where is she?
I can't reach her.

She went out to dinner.

Alone?

No, with her friend.

Who's that?

Some guy from the hiking club.

Your mom joined a hiking club?

Yeah.

Do you know if she's met
this guy before?

Yes, they've met before.
They're good friends.

Dad?

Listen, I've got to run, old sport.
We'll catch up later.

- Okay.
- Bye.

Bye.

...and later,
when I was older,

I returned to them
and started helping out as a guide

for wine-tasting tours.

- That must have been fun.
- Yes, it was wonderful.

That's when my interest
really started,

and it has stayed with me ever since.

So, this one's a Chardonnay
from Bourgogne.

Please take a whiff.

I'm pretty sure I can smell
wine in there.

I think this will go nicely
with the butter-fried fish.

The acidity cuts through the fat,

and it's refreshingly dry.

It's a bit too sour for my taste,

but I'm not sure
how it goes with the food.

That's all that
really matters to you.

It sure does.
I'll try some now.

So, do you buy it
from the local liquor store?

No, it comes straight
from the farmer.

And do you know
a farmer in Bourgogne?

Not exactly. But I know someone
who knows someone.

She's well-connected.

- But how do you like it?
- It's good.

Really good.

Should I order some
for the big night?

Yeah, why not?

Order two boxes for us.
What do you think, Hjalti?

Isn't it expensive?

Well, sort of.

Should we really be
concerned about the cost?

Concerned about the cost?
Of course, we should.

Aren't we in agreement to go all out
and do this right?

- Do you recommend this?
- I recommend this.

I trust you.

Cheers.

- Cheers.
- Oh, I already drank mine.

Now try to look a bit nice.
Loosen up a bit, Hjalti. Relax.

Relax, there.

-Is that the museum's camera?
- Yup. Thanks for letting us borrow it.

It's not supposed to be here.

Don't you need to document
all the old stuff?

- You've got to move over.
- I am moving!

- I can't get in.
- Come on, squeeze in.

I'm not going to squeeze in.
No, stop it.

Bye.

Lilja!

Are you in a hurry?

No.

You don't have to help us with those
Danes if you don't feel like it.

I know I don't have to.

- I want to.
- Really?

Yes.

I like being a hostess,
and having some company is also nice.

Then, I'll leave this night
in your hands

if you promise not to
outshine me too much.

We'll see about that.

Yes.

How are things going
at the museum?

It's going okay.
It's here to stay.

Are you able to gather
a lot of old stuff?

It's not like I go around
collecting old things.

Oh, so how does it work then?

People just come
and donate things to the museum.

Like what?

It can be all kinds of treasures
and precious items.

Sometimes,
people bring someone's entire estate.

Some junk no one
wants to throw away

but still don't want
to keep themselves.

And I'm expected to give them
a permanent home.

But it's a museum,
not a storage.

- It can be hard to let go.
- Yes.

Speaking of old things.

Thanks.

Welcome aboard
Iceland's first rescue ship.

The María Júlía.

Well, I'll be!

Where did that name come from?

The local lifesaving association's
women raised the funds.

Everyone pitched in,

but one woman
donated the most.

- María Júlía?
- Yes.

- Was she wealthy?
- No, she gave everything she had.

These women saw their fathers,

brothers, sons,
and husbands perish at sea.

Fifty people died during one trip
in Önundafjörður.

Proportionally,
that's more casualties

than among
the biggest nations at war.

Then more people got killed
during rescue missions.

But this lady,
she changed everything.

Now people want to discard her,
because restoration is too costly!

When did we become such
a spiritually bankrupt nation?

You're really into boats, right?

Yeah, they're our Notre Dame,

but no one seems to notice
they're all disappearing.

Back in the day,
every household

had these small rowboats
called skekta,

used for everything.

They were like
the automobile of that era.

How many do you think are left?

- I don't know.
- Not a single one. None.

Right.

It's incredible how little respect
we show our history and culture.

Exactly.

As kids, we spend whole days
at school for almost 20 years.

But there's hardly
any mention of meditation,

art, culture, or values.

Or why we have this
creative impulse

and what it is about art
that moves us.

Imagine how much it could help kids
understand themselves.

We're all pigeonholed.

People spend their whole lives
trying to break free.

Not everyone can handle it.

I don't know.

Maybe I'm just still peeved about
how things were when I was young.

While I romanticize the past.

Yeah, a bit.

Look at the fish!

Oh, wow!

- They're young fish!
- Wow, there are so many.

Yeah.
They are having a ball.

So, how do you like
living alone here?

I've never really
thought about it like that.

But it's definitely different.

- Don't you miss your kids?
- Yeah.

But it seems like they're
managing just fine without me.

How are you getting along
all by yourself?

It was rough at the start,

but I'm getting used to it.

You haven't dated anyone
since Addi passed away?

No.

But I got a dog.

Is that enough?

- Are you asking me out on a date?
- No, no. Just curious.

Besides, I won't jump in bed
with just anyone.

Yeah, don't do that.

By all means, don't do that.

I'm glad we agree.

So, there's no way you and Styrmir
will come here for Christmas?

Yes, Hjalti.

How many times do I have to tell you?

Will that hiker be joining you?

Come on.
We're just friends.

Sure, friends who go out
to dinner together.

At least someone
wants to spend time with me.

You certainly don't.

No.

By the way, Birna stopped by
for coffee yesterday.

She mentioned that
if everything goes well tonight,

the Red House might stay open
all winter.

Yeah, it might.

So you won't be coming
to spend any time with us?

No, or yes.

Let's discuss it later. I've got
to go take care of some stuff.

- Sure.
- We'll talk soon.

Hi.

What's all this stuff?

The wine.
Can you give me a hand?

How are you anyway?

Excited about tonight?

Fjóla mentioned you had coffee
with her yesterday.

Yes, we did.
It was really good to see her.

- What did you guys talk about?
- All kinds of things.

Like what?

Where do you want me to start?

Please don't go behind my back
in my private life too.

I was just listening.

Wait.

- Do we still agree to go all out tonight?
- Sure.

- All out.
- Yeah, but what?

Would you mind ditching
the women's clothes?

What do you mean?

We don't know how those people
might react.

- How they'd react to a freak like me.
- Björn.

My name is Birna.

It's not my personal opinion
that you shouldn't wear a dress.

- A dress?
- Yes.

Am I wearing a dress now?

- No.
- No.

You know,
I burned all my old clothes.

So I couldn't indulge you
even if I wanted to.

- I could lend you some clothes.
- Are you serious?

Besides, you'll be wearing an apron.

Jesus, Hjalti!

I'm only asking you to consider
my feelings for this one night.

Is that really such a big deal?

If I were to genuinely
consider your feelings,

it wouldn't be
just this one night, Hjalti.

Did it ever occur to you

that maybe these people
aren't like you?

- Like me, how?
- Scared of me.

I'm not scared of you.
It's not like you bite.

Don't you think I noticed you
looking around earlier?

- Can't a guy look around anymore?
- Hjalti...

You are ashamed of me.

I'm not ashamed of you.
I'm here with you in the car?

How brave of you.

Shut up.

Since this isn't a problem for you,

let's just go down to the docks now
and pick up some fish together.

No. You're going home.

No, I'm coming with you.

No!

Stop it!

Diddi's coming ashore.
Let's go.

Now shut your damn mouth
and do as I say.

If you don't take us
to the harbor right now,

I'm not cooking tonight
or any other damn fucking night.

You're crazy, man.

Crazy, ma'am, you jerk.

Hey, Diddi.

- Hey.
- Did you catch a lot?

- Uh, five tons.
- Good job.

Hjalti, you think this wolffish
could bite you harder than me?

Shut up, boy!

- Boy?
- Yes!

Unless you let that wolffish
bite off your dick.

Do you know what will be
the first thing I do

after I've recovered
from the major surgery?

No.

I'm going to go aboard

one of Halti's old boats
and masturbate.

Maybe I'll start
with the María Júlía.

Wouldn't you rather get
on these ships and get fucked!

- Are you going to pimp me out?
- No.

Tugboat whores know how to
take care of themselves.

You should know.

Don't you dare accuse me
of any harlotry!

- Harlotry?
- Yes!

Are we in the middle ages?

And you keep
your mouth trap for once!

How's it going?

We could use some extra hands.

- Is Hjalti still upstairs?
- Who cares?

Yeah, all the houses here
were built by Danish merchants.

- Good evening.
- Good evening.

- We have a reservation at eight.
- That's right.

Hey.

This is the fantastic Red House.

Hjalti, the guests are here.

I know.

Leave that alone.

Yeah.

What happened today?

I don't really like discussing it.

I came here because I thought
it would be fun.

I think you can just
forget about that.

I could easily leave.
I don't need to be here.

But I won't. Because I won't abandon
Birna to handle everything alone

just because you can't
behave yourself.

Lilja...

My wife just left me,
my son is mentally ill,

and my best friend is,

gone.

I'm all alone.

I can't even bring myself
to get out of bed in the morning

because I dread whatever
damn nonsense awaits me.

- Is everything okay?
- Can you give us a minute?

- Huh?
- Just a minute.

- What's wrong?
- Nothing.

Look, I know you're not handling
this thing with Bjössi too well.

- Really?
- And the whole town knows it.

But the Danes are buying it.

It's like a modern vibe mixed
with the old one. It's cool.

Yeah, yeah.
It's just great.

Cut it out. I won't let you
ruin this set-up for me.

Why don't you just take these people
somewhere else to eat?

There's nowhere else.
I already gave them a package deal.

This restaurant,
my buses, and this mountain.

If you're going to
mess everything up,

I'm moving this business
to the next town.

- Since when...
- Since the start.

I just couldn't tell you.

Why doesn't anybody
tell me anything?

Am I just some schmuck around here?

- Einar, this isn't helping.
- Okay.

I don't know about you, but I'm going
down and keeping my promise.

Thanks.

Yeah, here it comes.

Yes, yes.

Here you go.

Thank you.

This is fantastic.
Freshest fish in the country.

Cheers.

Damn good, damn good.

Really good.

How does it taste?

Delicious.

I think this is the best fish.

Oh, I'm glad.

Wolffish.

- Wolffish.
- Yes.

Perfect.

Thanks, cheers.

Cheers.

They were thrilled.

Yes...

- Having a Mohito, are we?
- Yeah.

Yeah.
Then I need to teach some phrases.

- Damn, you really came through, Bjössi.
- Birna!

Yeah, you just go for it.

No nonsense.

That's right.

I've often wondered
about this type of stuff.

What type of stuff?

Like when I'm in Amsterdam,

in the red light district

and see the ladyboys
in the blue windows.

- The ladyboys?
- Yeah, the ladyboys in the blue windows.

Well...

I sort of desire them.

I mean, I'm not into guys.

Transwomen are women, not boys.

Einar, maybe we should
get some fresh air?

Nah, I've got gum.

But you know...

Boy, oh boy, oh boy.

Then we need to get
the María Júlía up and running.

Up and running?

Yeah, for whale-watching,
or wasn't that what she was used for?

Yeah, but she was also
Iceland's first research vessel.

Exactly, I want a boat with some
history. That's a better sell.

Yeah, that might save her.
But won't funding be difficult?

It'll be easy.

If we can show it'll make money,
getting funds will be a breeze.

- I mean, I know people.
- I see.

I mean everything I say.
Just look at how tonight turned out.

Yeah.
I'll be in touch about this.

Let's talk and move forward
after Christmas.

Yeah.

You can trust this guy.

I'm sorry.

I'm sorry about today.
I just lost my temper.

Aren't you going to say anything?

This fight today wasn't just
some row at the pub.

You really hurt me.

Yeah, I'm sorry. I don't know
what else I can say or do.

I'm just asking
that you see me for who I am.

- And treat me with respect.
- I just don't understand this.

You don't need to understand
everything under the sun.

I don't understand
everything you do, either.

But I can still respect it.

I'll do better, trust me.
I really don't want to screw this up.

And I'm not just talking
about the restaurant.

Thanks.

And sorry how I acted just now.
I was a total bitch.

Hjalti...

without you,
there wouldn't be any Birna.

DECEMBER

Just remember
that women come in all types.

- Yeah, I know.
- Just take me, for instance.

I'm always in outdoor gear and a cap.

- Yeah.
- Yes.

I was just so lucky to meet such
amazing people in kayaking

who accepted me as I am.

- Saved you?
- Yeah, completely.

My lifeline has always been

cooking good food and feeding people.

That hasn't changed.

Hjalti.

Hey there.

No, I'm just working
on the María Júlía.

Installing an extra pump
for my peace of mind.

Yeah...

I see.

This can easily wait.

What did you have in mind?

How's it going?

Do people actually enjoy this?

I'm not going any further.

Should we have a snack?

Yeah, sounds good.

- Come on.
- I'm exhausted.

This never fails to amaze me.

Yeah.

Just think how many people
have never seen the northern lights.

That's what Einar is going to sell
to those people.

- He wouldn't be the first.
- No.

What do you think people used
to think the northern lights were?

Well, they must have
scratched their heads over it.

For sure.

I once heard the Vikings believed

they were a shield guarding them
from the sun's rays.

I see.

They were pretty clever.

I read somewhere that

some Native American tribes
think the northern lights

are the souls of the dead.

That's a bit heavy.

I think I prefer
the sunscreen theory.

- That was fun.
- Mhm.

Would you like to come in?

Do you have more cocoa?

- I probably have more than just that.
- Yeah, I thought so.

What is it?

- It's a small town.
- And?

People talk.

You don't want to be seen
with me?

Sure, but it might
complicate things a bit.

- I mean, aren't you divorced?
- In a way.

In a way?

Are you divorced or not?

Not officially.

Hjalti...

You've been talking like it's over
between you two.

Yeah, I know.

You need to be honest.

I can't get involved
in some nonsense here.

Yeah, sorry.
It's just...

It's still unresolved.

And I'm, well,

I don't know what else
to say about that.

Sounds pretty clear to me.

Goodnight.

Goodnight.

Good morning.

- Good morning.
- You Hjalti?

Yes.

What can I do for you?

So, where do you want this?

Weren't you supposed to bring
a beechwood barrel?

Yeah, but isn't this also
a folk museum?

Yes.
Just set it down over there.

These are some of
the old couple's collectibles.

Here's my mother-in-law's
napkin collection.

Everything's laminated.
Look, Pizza 67.

Here's a confirmation napkin
from 2000.

Hey, that's María Dís.

Yes, my mom collected all kinds
of napkins.

There's also a plaque.

I think it's for bridge.

- Her old man was quite the bridge player.
- Yeah, he sure was.

Here, Lions Club, 40 years.
It's really lovely.

Wait, there's more.

Do you think you can use any of this?

I'll have to sort through it
and go over it first.

- This bed is pretty famous.
- Really?

My dad made it.
Jón, the cabinet-maker

- Don't you remember him?
- Now let me think.

Jón Guðni,
Beta Bjarna's husband.

They lived on the spit
across from Gúttó.

- That's right.
- He made this bed.

- I see.
- All my siblings and I slept in it.

We even have a painting
of my dad for you.

It's quite heavy, I'll tell you.

Be careful with that.

Well...

Here's the old man
in all his splendor.

Shouldn't we just leave it here?

He was quite a guy,
my father-in-law.

Yeah, he was.

Good morning,
Westfjords Maritime Museum.

Speaking.
Come again?

Did you pay attention
to the pump motor's phase sequence?

Can't you haul it back up?

That'll take days
and cost a fortune.

- Who gets the bill?
- The Maritime Museum.

Then, the town council will dispose
of it once it's on shore.

Well, at least you fought for her.

Fought?
Some heroic battle that was.

If I were a character
in a Viking Saga,

I'd be Ingjald's fool,
tied to a pole,

babbling nonsense
while everyone laughed.

I am of no use to anyone.

It would've been wiser
just to let me sink too.

You can't save everything.

You've already saved
a bunch of boats.

And it was you who stopped
the old houses from being torn down.

Just see how much
our culture is thriving.

Yeah, but for how long?

It'll all disappear someday.

Then I'll be dead too.

I just can't go on
if everything I do

is all for nothing.

What about the time
you've spent with your family?

Do you think that was wasted?

No.

I'd trade places with you
in a heartbeat.

To have someone
to share your life with,

share your home with,

have children,

and then grandchildren.

These wonderful creatures who visit
you and are even named after you.

Not that it really matters,
but still.

Believe me, I am happier now
than when I was still in the closet.

But I'm just so scared
of dying alone.

Lying old and sick
in some hospital bed,

with nobody coming to see me.

No one to hold my hand when I die.

The only thing that keeps
me going is the hope

that maybe something more
awaits us when we leave this life.

And whatever that may be,

spirit, light, or warmth,

I hope it welcomes
and embraces me.

Well, then.

Well.

You can use it
to pick up fish and stuff

after the new year when
things get busy again.

The clutch is a bit worn out,
so watch out for that.

- I've only ever owned clunkers.
- Yeah.

Have a safe trip,
and say hi to everyone for me.

Thanks, see you later.

- Hey.
- Hey.

- How was your flight?
- Fine.

I thought maybe we could
stop by a café and chat

since Styrmir is at home.

Sure.

And he assumed I was single,
which was understandable,

and I didn't correct him
when he invited me out to dinner.

Did anything happen?

No, nothing like that.

I wouldn't blame you even
if something did happen.

If I were married to myself, I might
have affairs all over the place

Why?
Did you meet someone?

No, I...

No, not really.
No, just a casual walk on the pier,

and I told her about the museum
and the boats.

Listen...

Hjalti, I think...

Hjalti, I don't think I can
handle much more of this.

It's been nearly three years

since I moved here with Styrmir,
and I've attended

a whole slew of meetings
with doctors and therapists.

And tried various treatments,
ups and downs,

and I've even started taking
anti-anxiety medication

because I'm on the verge
of a breakdown.

I'll just put in more effort
with him now.

Right now, it's not just
about making an effort

but being reliable
and simply being there.

For Styrmir, for me,

for the older boys,
for the grandchildren.

Either...

you come and stay with
us here in Reykjavik,

or it's over.

I understand that
a promise is just a word,

but if I promise to get my
act together,

could we at least spend Christmas
together as a regular family?

And after that, my actions
will have to speak for themselves.

Did you get the ptarmigan yet?

Yes.

- Don't you agree?
- Yes, let's do that.

- Styrmir, one or two?
- One's fine, thanks.

- Watch out for the pellets.
- What?

Nothing.

This is wild boar.

Should we raise a toast?

Cheers.

What do we have here?

To Styrmir from Mom and Dad.

Thanks.

I think it's skis.

Look who's here
Grandpa's dear girl!

- Nobody could have expected it, really.
-No.

So, what are your plans here, Dad?

Well, first, I'm going to spend
some time with your mom.

- And once I've driven her crazy.
- Yeah, by noon tomorrow.

Exactly.

Then, I'll figure out
what to do next.

What about the museum
and the Red House?

We'll have to wait
and see about the museum,

but Bjössi will come through.

Birna.

Her too.

Hey, give me a break.

We're going to keep at it for
the next 20 years.

No!

Have you made
any new friends at school?

Um, yeah.
Remember Inga?

She came over.

Yeah.

I think I remember her.

Anyway, we're spending
a lot of time together.

Are you two dating?

Dad, you know I'm gay.

Yeah, I know.

So, are you two getting along well?

Yeah.

She's pretty much my best friend
down here.

I met her on the first day of school.

I was just walking down the hall and

heard someone calling after me,
"Styrmir, wait!"

So I was like, "Huh.

Who's calling me?"

And I turned around
and saw Inga coming toward me.

Okay.

And she asked me if I wanted
to go to class with her.

I was like, "What!?"

"Who wants to go to class with me?"

She just,

came up to me first
out of the blue

and didn't find me disgusting
or anything.

He couldn't even sit down.

All the kids refused
to let him sit with them.

- Refused him?
- Yes.

Even kicked him
out of the classroom

so that he couldn't
even eat lunch there.

He always walked home for lunch,
even if the weather was miserable.

I had no idea about it.
He never told me anything.

The teachers kept giving
him a hard time for

losing his school things.

I kept going to the store
to buy new ones.

It was just the kids

who kept stealing from
his pencil case and ruining it.

Then it just got worse.

Remember how he was looking
forward to the sports festival?

Yes.

Then he came home
and said he hated sports

and didn't want to be there.

He was supposed to work
at the food stand,

but they all refused
to work with him.

It's only now
that he can talk about this.

You know, it was so awful.

He was always just alone.

I wasn't aware
this was going on at all.

ONE YEAR LATER

Finally, we'll have
Jón Sigurpálsson with,

"What is folk culture?
Is it National Heritage?"

But we'll start with
Hjalti Einarsson,

former director of the
Westfjords Maritime Museum

of 25 years
and my predecessor.

He'll be giving a talk titled

"The María Júlía Rescue Ship,
a Symbol of Indifference."

If you please, Hjalti.

Thank you, Edda.

It seems the museum is in good hands
since Edda managed

to organize this forum within a year.

I ran it for 25 years

and couldn't even get a single
meeting

with the Cultural Heritage Agency.

I would like to open
by quoting an article

that appeared in The Morning Paper
on April 22nd, 1950.

"There's been a quick
succession of significant events

in Iceland's cultural affairs lately.
Just the other day,

they opened the country's
most magnificent cultural center,

the National Theatre,

and yesterday,
the most advanced rescue ship

the nation has ever had
arrived in Reykjavik's harbor.

It's fitting that these events
should happen

more or less simultaneously

because although they seem
unrelated at first glance,

they are rooted in the same mindset.

After all, art admiration
and saving lives

are both characteristics
of true culture.

A nation that does not
enjoy fine arts

is not a cultured nation.

And a nation that does not try

to protect its citizens' lives

cannot be considered
a cultured nation either.

We've been, are,
and always will be a nation

because we know how to fish.

- Good afternoon.
- Oh, pardon me.

- How can I help you?
- We have a reservation.

- Sure, what's the name?
- Hjalti.

- Please follow me.
- Thank you.

Here you are, please.

Wow, this looks nice.

Can I get you anything to drink?

Yes, I would like
a glass of white wine, thanks.

Do you still have
Chardonnay from Burgundy?

Yes...
I'm not sure.

The head chef will know.

- I can ask her. Do you know Birna?
- Yes.

Of course, let me check.

- Chardonnay from Burgundy.
- Yeah.

Is that new here?

No, we got some for the place a year ago.

It was really good back then,
but I'm not sure how long it stays fresh.

Oh, it's so great to see you!

- How are you?
- Hi, darling.

- Hi, Fjóla.
- Wow, the place looks amazing.

Thanks.
We've missed having you here.

I doubt it.

So, how's everything going?
How's Styrmir?

Well, he's doing great,
and he's got a boyfriend now.

- That's wonderful.
- He's got a friend.

- Some things never change.
- Are the girls here?

Yeah, do you want
to come to the kitchen

and say hi to them
before you eat?

Definitely.

Wait, Birna, look who I found.

Anyone recognize those people?

Yeah, a little bit.

It's amazing we managed to capture
such a nice picture of this group.

Go in ahead of us.

Hello, hello, hello!

- No way!
- Hey.

- Hjalti, good to see you.
- Good to see you too.

Oh my God.
Hi, darling.

- Good to see you.
- How are you?

- So, you're here.
- Hey.

Hey. I'm Fjóla.

Wow, that looks amazing, girls!

You have to try the Tinna Special.

I told you they'd manage
just fine without you.

Clearly.

FOR JÓN