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although just eight percent of the people of waitsfield
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it's hard to imagine the perseverance it took
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to farm here.
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the valley averages ten feet of snow a year,
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and has the shortest growing season in the state--
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less than four months.
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and yet, throughout history,
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vermonters have made their living by farming.
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today the major landmark in the small village of waitsfield
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is the great eddy bridge, which spans the mad river.
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the oldest operating covered bridge in the state.
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over time the farms grew, raising grain, beef and sheep.
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still work in farming,
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the landscape is beautifully preserved...
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especially along route 100,
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ranked as one of the ten most scenic roads in america.
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the road winds north for 200 miles,
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along the rugged spine of the green mountains,
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across some of the best scenery in the state.
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and best of all there are no garish billboards
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to spoil the view.
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and the ground level was reserved for cows' manure,
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one of the very few remaining round barns in vermont.
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based on a shaker design, the barns epitomize
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the shaker rule of craftsmanship.
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"let it be plain and simple, of good and substantial quality,
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unembellished by any superfluities
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which add nothing to its goodness or durability."
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round barns are the model of practicality.
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hay was stored on the top floor,
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horses and cows kept on the middle floor,
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road signage has been banned here since 1963.
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where it could be easily removed.
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all in all, a most practical design
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for a working farmer's barn.
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this gently sloping land of the mad river valley
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is the heart of vermont's historic farmland.
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here, small towns and covered bridges
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trace the path of vermont's earliest farmers.
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european colonists first settled here in 1790.
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then farms were small, yielding just enough to feed a family.
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although set in india,
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the long trail was also the inspiration
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for the famed appalachian trail,
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which links the mountains of the eastern united states
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from maine to georgia.
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west of the long trail lies the perfectly preserved home
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of rudyard kipling.
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he called it naulakha.
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believe it or not, the jungle book
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here in vermont.
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and unfolds for 270 miles from one end of vermont to the other.
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it was written in these green hills
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where he and his wife lived happily for four years.
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"naulakha" is a hindu word
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loosely translated as "a jewel beyond price."
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he described his green-shingled farmhouse
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as "three miles from anywhere and wonderfully self-contained."
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and its design, he wrote,
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"is long and narrow to resemble a ship,
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appears to be riding on a hillside
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including the early homes of the abenaki tribe,
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the green mountain range
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is the most prominent natural feature of vermont.
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and the green mountain national forest
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covers more than 400,000 acres
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and stretches almost the entire length of the state.
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here the scenery ranges from rugged wilderness
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to quiet villages.
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within this land are thousands of historic sites
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spanning the history of vermont,
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is the great joslyn round barn--
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the native americans who settled here 12,000 years ago.
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the forest also travels through three alpine ski areas
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and 900 miles of trails for cross country skiing and hiking.
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hidden beneath the forest's brilliant fall canopy
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lies the appropriately named "long trail,"
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which travels the length of the green mountains.
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also known as vermont's "footpath in the wilderness,"
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it is the oldest long distance hiking trail
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in the united states,
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for over a century, granite was the rock
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by the vermont poet robert tristam coffin.
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vermont's a place "where barns come painted
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red as a strong man's heart,
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where stout carts and stout boys in freckles
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are highest forms of art."
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central vermont has long been defined
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by its massive granite quarries,
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source of a near flawless stone
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used in gravestones and buildings all over the world.
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a land best described
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on which the fortunes of the nearby city of barre
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rose and fell.
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even today, barre is an industrial city
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built by generations of immigrants.
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barre's "rock of ages" quarry
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runs a quarter mile long and 450 feet deep--
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the largest in the world.
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in the late 1800s, generations of european stonecutters
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arrived to work in the quarries.
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final resting place of its townsfolk for over 150 years.
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peacham's rolling hills, red barns
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and white-steepled church
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have made it the setting ethan frome,
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where the rivers flow north the spitfire grill.
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first settled in 1776, peacham is still a small town,
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complete with an old town store, built in 1842,
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that still does a roaring trade.
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it even offers rooms for rent.
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close by is peacham cemetery,
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in just one decade, granite brought so many people to barre
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here, in the shade of red maples,
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a gravestone tells the tragic story
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of three generations of a vermont family.
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one spring, in the 1800s,
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a grandmother, her daughter and eight-year-old grandson
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froze to death as they walked into town.
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hard to imagine today
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when stretching out on all sides of the village
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are peaceful open valleys and endless farms.
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goddard college is based on the "free school" concept--
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to the gothic design of the episcopal church
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made of vermont granite.
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just north of the capital is the town of plainfield,
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home to the progressive goddard college.
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here, in the 1960s, the school was home
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to some of the most vocal opposition to the vietnam war.
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in time, the school's bohemian reputation
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turned plainfield into a mecca for communes and hippies,
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some of whom are still here.
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ranging from a greek revival courthouse
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what they describe as
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"progressive education for creative minds."
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actor william h. macy and playwright david mamet
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are two of goddard's free-thinking alumni.
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mamet--known for his edgy, rapid-fire dialogue--
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is friends with macy,
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who frequently acts in mamet's films.
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moving south,
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to the fertile farmlands of the mad river valley,
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many of them carved by master stonecutters
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that the town's population grew from 2,000 to nearly 7,000.
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tons of granite and marble from across the state
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was carried by rail to washington, d.c.,
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for construction of the jefferson memorial
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and the supreme court.
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just outside barre is one
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of the most fantastic displays of granite to be seen.
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the hope cemetery covers 85 acres of monuments
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that date back to 1895--
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like a little boat on the flank of a wave."
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early in the 20th century.
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just west of barre is vermont's state capital, montpelier.
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with a population of just 10,000,
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it's the smallest in the nation.
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the state house is known for its gold leaf dome,
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bearing aloft a statue representing agriculture--
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a monument to vermont's farming industry.
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the area around the state house
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is known for its varied architectural styles--
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they bought the land in 1928,
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dedicated to restoring grafton's historic buildings.
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but the town is best known for its cheddar cheese business,
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which began in 1892.
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today the grafton village cheese company
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makes one of the finest cheddars in the world.
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fast forward from the 1800s to the roaring twenties
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and look down at the bucolic home
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of author sinclair lewis and journalist dorothy thompson.
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these 300 acres combined the land of two farms
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into a property the couple christened "twin farms."
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he created the wyndam foundation,
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a year after lewis's novel was published.
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the couple fell in love with vermont
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and invited their literary friends to visit.
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one described the fall foliage as:
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"wildly, insanely, cock-eyed lovely,
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like a couple of million drunken rainbows in a brawl."
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later, after the couple separated,
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dorothy wrote lewis that twin farms was
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"the best expression in life of both of us--
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but many of grafton's historic buildings still stand.
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today there are stunning views from the trestle bridge,
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built in 1911,
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and miles of hiking trails winding past waterfalls.
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to the south is the historic village of grafton.
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founded in 1763, grafton thrived through the 1800s
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with sheep farms and mills.
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in 1830, its population peaked at nearly 1,500 people--
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and 10,000 sheep.
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the days of sheep farming are gone,
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beautiful, hospitable and unpretentious."
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this classic four-story white clapboard inn,
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known as "the old tavern," was first built in 1801.
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today it's one of the oldest operating inns in america.
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the old tavern that once served
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stagecoach passengers and their horses
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still hosts guests today.
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a major part of the town's renaissance
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was financed by investment banker dean mathey
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who once summered in the area.
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braved snow-covered mountains to settle its valleys,
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he gave comfort to his fellow vermonters
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with these simple yet eloquent words:
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"it was here that i first saw the light of day;
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here that i received my bride; here my dead lie."
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"i love vermont because of her hills and valleys,
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her scenery and invigorating climate,
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but most of all because of her indomitable people."
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aerial vermont tells the story of these indomitable people
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who farmed its stony fields,
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but after a devastating flood
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and kept the land intact.
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here conservation of america's earliest landscapes
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began and prospered.
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a state begun by the fierce independence
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of its earliest heroes,
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whose spirit inspired a president,
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and a poet, who's words best describe vermont's gift:
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"i chose the road less traveled and it made all the difference."
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and a poet, who's words best describe vermont's gift:
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today, the hillside farm is an historic site.
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our final destination is the small hill town
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of plymouth notch,
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the birthplace of calvin coolidge.
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here, in 1923, as vice president calvin coolidge
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was helping his father harvest the hay,
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he received word of the death of president warren harding.
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coolidge was immediately sworn in
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as the 30th president of the united states
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by his father, a notary public.
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was created some 13,000 years ago by glaciers.
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the president is buried in the town cemetery
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with seven generations of coolidges.
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when asked why he wished to be buried
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in such humble surroundings, he replied,
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"we draw our presidents from the people,
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i came from them.
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i wish to be one of them again."
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"silent cal," as coolidge was known,
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had a reputation as a man of very few words.
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"new hampshire," with the ironic words,
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to watch his woods fill up with snow."
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in 1920, 44-year-old robert frost
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moved from new hampshire to vermont, as he put it,
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"to seek a better place to farm and especially grow apples."
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apparently he found it.
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for the next four decades, frost lived mainly in vermont,
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writing much of his verse in this log cabin near ripton,
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a small town in the heart of the green mountain forest.
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he ended his pulitzer prize-winning poem,
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he will not see me stopping here.
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"at present i am living in vermont."
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today, ripton, with a population of just 550,
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is still a very small town, dominated by middlebury college,
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which owns the land and the log cabin where frost worked.
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from 1921, when he first spoke at the school,
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frost returned every summer for 42 years
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in support of the writers program.
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00:37:19,020 --> 00:37:23,460
another artist found his voice in southwestern vermont.
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00:37:23,490 --> 00:37:27,030
this little town of arlington was, for 14 years,
263
00:35:07,390 --> 00:35:11,830
a restored lodge originally built by loggers in 1813.
264
00:34:34,690 --> 00:34:37,760
it has been restored by the british landmark trust,
265
00:34:37,790 --> 00:34:41,330
a foundation that restores historic british properties--
266
00:34:41,360 --> 00:34:46,100
not as museums but as unconventional guest homes.
267
00:34:46,130 --> 00:34:47,570
naulakha.
268
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the perfect literary getaway.
269
00:34:53,310 --> 00:34:56,740
here is the moosalamoo region of the green forest,
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00:34:56,780 --> 00:35:00,280
covering 22,000 acres of wilderness.
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perched in the midst of the forest
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is the blueberry hill inn,
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00:37:27,060 --> 00:37:31,100
home to the famed american artist norman rockwell.
274
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45 miles of trails stretch out from the inn into the forest.
275
00:35:20,400 --> 00:35:24,770
but the favorite is the robert frost interpretive trail.
276
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the path is a perfect monument to the poet,
277
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surrounded by the woods,
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which inspired so much of his work.
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as visitors hike or ski the route
280
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they can stop to read his poems, posted along the trail.
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among them: "whose woods these are i think i know.
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his house is in the village though.
283
00:39:25,780 --> 00:39:27,180
he and his wife built
284
00:38:59,690 --> 00:39:01,760
a large part of the credit for that title
285
00:39:01,790 --> 00:39:03,160
is due to the efforts
286
00:39:03,190 --> 00:39:06,360
of laurance rockefeller and his wife mary french.
287
00:39:06,390 --> 00:39:08,160
there are no phone or power lines
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00:39:08,200 --> 00:39:10,200
to spoil the village landscape,
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00:39:10,230 --> 00:39:14,040
since rockefeller saw to it that the lines were buried.
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00:39:16,740 --> 00:39:20,170
for 60 years the couple worked to preserve the town--
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00:39:20,210 --> 00:39:21,440
due in large part to the work
292
00:39:21,480 --> 00:39:25,750
of mary's grandfather, frederick billings.
293
00:38:56,080 --> 00:38:59,650
as the prettiest small town in america.
294
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the town's centerpiece woodstock inn and resort
295
00:39:29,850 --> 00:39:32,020
in 1969.
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00:39:39,790 --> 00:39:42,600
as well as deep pockets, the rockefellers were known
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00:39:42,630 --> 00:39:45,100
for their commitment to conservation,
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00:39:45,130 --> 00:39:48,000
an interest that first took place in vermont.
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00:39:51,240 --> 00:39:53,410
just down the river from woodstock
300
00:39:53,440 --> 00:39:57,140
is one of vermont's stunning natural wonders--
301
00:39:57,180 --> 00:40:00,680
the quechee gorge.
302
00:40:00,710 --> 00:40:04,790
this dramatic 165-foot-high and mile-long gorge
303
00:38:16,410 --> 00:38:18,780
many visitors are drawn to hildene,
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00:37:34,340 --> 00:37:36,300
after leaving new york city,
305
00:37:36,340 --> 00:37:38,410
rockwell described moving to vermont
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00:37:38,440 --> 00:37:41,680
as having "fallen into utopia."
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here in small town vermont,
308
00:37:49,120 --> 00:37:52,420
rockwell created some of his best work--
309
00:37:52,450 --> 00:37:56,560
portraits which captured both the heroic and humble
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00:37:56,590 --> 00:37:58,590
in human nature.
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00:38:10,470 --> 00:38:12,640
nestled in the hills north of arlington
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00:38:12,670 --> 00:38:16,380
is the charming town of manchester center.
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00:22:38,540 --> 00:22:40,240
in new england.
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00:38:18,810 --> 00:38:21,380
the home built by robert todd lincoln--
315
00:38:21,420 --> 00:38:23,980
son of president abraham lincoln.
316
00:38:33,760 --> 00:38:35,360
in the mid 1800s,
317
00:38:35,400 --> 00:38:37,160
the mineral water of manchester village
318
00:38:37,200 --> 00:38:39,800
became a draw for wealthy travelers
319
00:38:39,830 --> 00:38:41,900
who came to "take the waters"
320
00:38:41,940 --> 00:38:44,940
which were thought to have healing properties.
321
00:38:50,580 --> 00:38:53,080
moving west to the connecticut river valley
322
00:38:53,110 --> 00:38:56,050
is woodstock, considered by many
323
00:07:16,920 --> 00:07:20,760
instead the green mountain boys fought off the yorkers.
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00:06:51,560 --> 00:06:53,960
between new york and new hampshire,
325
00:06:54,000 --> 00:06:55,360
who both claimed the land
326
00:06:55,400 --> 00:06:58,970
of vermont's fertile champlain valley.
327
00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:01,640
to protect their land from the hated "yorkers,"
328
00:07:01,670 --> 00:07:04,610
two fiercely independent new hampshire landowners--
329
00:07:04,640 --> 00:07:06,280
ira and ethan allen--
330
00:07:06,310 --> 00:07:09,980
formed a militia called "the green mountain boys."
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00:07:10,010 --> 00:07:11,750
"the boys" defied new york's threat
332
00:07:11,780 --> 00:07:14,120
to drive vermont settlers off the fields
333
00:07:14,150 --> 00:07:16,890
and into the green mountains to the east.
334
00:06:48,190 --> 00:06:51,530
but the notoriously vague borders led to bitter disputes
335
00:07:20,790 --> 00:07:23,390
but in the end neither new hampshire nor new york
336
00:07:23,430 --> 00:07:25,460
was able to control the land,
337
00:07:25,490 --> 00:07:29,630
and "the boys" helped establish the republic of vermont.
338
00:07:32,000 --> 00:07:34,840
perched on the edge of the lake lies burlington--
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00:07:34,870 --> 00:07:38,910
no, not the coat factory, but vermont's largest city--
340
00:07:38,940 --> 00:07:43,350
with a population of just 40,000.
341
00:07:43,380 --> 00:07:47,250
despite its small size, it's a cosmopolitan town.
342
00:07:49,720 --> 00:07:53,320
in its heyday, as a port city in the steamship era,
343
00:07:53,360 --> 00:07:55,890
it attracted some famous visitors,
344
00:06:15,220 --> 00:06:16,930
particularly the green mountains,
345
00:05:38,250 --> 00:05:40,920
brothers who helped to found vermont.
346
00:05:46,830 --> 00:05:50,000
in 1779, vermont gave these islands
347
00:05:50,030 --> 00:05:53,170
in tribute to the allens and their associates,
348
00:05:53,200 --> 00:05:57,110
popularly known as "the green mountain boys."
349
00:05:58,940 --> 00:06:02,610
how the boys earned their name, and became so beloved,
350
00:06:02,650 --> 00:06:05,110
is also the story of how an early colony
351
00:06:05,150 --> 00:06:08,680
became known as vermont.
352
00:06:08,720 --> 00:06:10,890
one of the smallest states in america,
353
00:06:10,920 --> 00:06:15,190
vermont is a land rich in lakes, rivers and mountains,
354
00:07:55,930 --> 00:08:00,030
including the author charles dickens.
355
00:06:16,960 --> 00:06:20,030
which dominate the state.
356
00:06:20,060 --> 00:06:24,770
early french explorers named the land "vert," meaning green,
357
00:06:24,800 --> 00:06:27,170
and "mont," meaning mountain--
358
00:06:27,200 --> 00:06:31,570
thus "vermont," or vermont.
359
00:06:31,610 --> 00:06:36,250
today, ethan allen's homestead lies east of lake champlain
360
00:06:36,280 --> 00:06:40,650
amid the spectacular vermont scenery he fought to defend.
361
00:06:40,680 --> 00:06:42,220
in the 1700s,
362
00:06:42,250 --> 00:06:44,020
colonial boundaries were determined
363
00:06:44,050 --> 00:06:48,160
by royal land grants made in england.
364
00:10:11,930 --> 00:10:15,000
today it operates as a non-profit working farm
365
00:09:36,090 --> 00:09:42,170
she made her last voyage over land, mooring here in 1955.
366
00:09:42,200 --> 00:09:44,270
today she offers visitors a glimpse
367
00:09:44,300 --> 00:09:48,940
into the elegant life of travel aboard a 19th-century steamship.
368
00:09:51,510 --> 00:09:54,110
nearby is shelburne farms,
369
00:09:54,140 --> 00:09:58,810
an estate of nearly 400 acres with several buildings.
370
00:09:58,850 --> 00:10:03,320
one of the most impressive is the breeding barn.
371
00:10:03,350 --> 00:10:05,790
the farm was created in 1886
372
00:10:05,820 --> 00:10:08,860
by lila vanderbilt and william seward webb
373
00:10:08,890 --> 00:10:11,890
as a model agricultural estate.
374
00:09:31,650 --> 00:09:36,060
from the golden age of steamship travel.
375
00:10:15,030 --> 00:10:17,130
teaching conservation.
376
00:10:27,180 --> 00:10:29,110
for over 100 centuries,
377
00:10:29,150 --> 00:10:31,780
native americans called the abenaki
378
00:10:31,810 --> 00:10:35,820
traveled vermont's waterways in birch bark canoes.
379
00:10:40,160 --> 00:10:44,930
the winooski, from an abenaki word meaning "wild onion land,"
380
00:10:44,960 --> 00:10:48,200
is one of vermont's most important rivers,
381
00:10:48,230 --> 00:10:50,600
running 90 miles from the green mountains
382
00:10:50,630 --> 00:10:52,700
west to lake champlain.
383
00:10:59,340 --> 00:11:02,780
this was the waterway used by generations of abenaki
384
00:08:49,380 --> 00:08:52,050
over the hump, and down into the valley,
385
00:08:00,060 --> 00:08:02,870
today, the "pretty little town" of burlington--
386
00:08:02,900 --> 00:08:04,470
as dickens described it--
387
00:08:04,500 --> 00:08:06,940
still captivates visitors.
388
00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:15,210
the town center at the church street marketplace
389
00:08:15,240 --> 00:08:18,680
is a bustling mix of cafes and shops.
390
00:08:24,950 --> 00:08:27,320
and the lake attracts swimmers,
391
00:08:27,360 --> 00:08:31,860
and most of all sailors who love champlain's gusty winds.
392
00:08:38,130 --> 00:08:43,210
moving inland lie camel's hump and mount mansfield--
393
00:08:43,240 --> 00:08:45,840
the two highest mountains in vermont.
394
00:05:33,550 --> 00:05:38,220
were once named "two heroes" in honor of ethan and ira allen,
395
00:08:52,080 --> 00:08:54,120
just three miles away,
396
00:08:54,150 --> 00:08:58,190
is the 45-acre shelburne museum--
397
00:08:58,220 --> 00:09:00,360
a village of historic buildings
398
00:09:00,390 --> 00:09:04,660
that hold the finest collection of americana in the country.
399
00:09:08,330 --> 00:09:11,400
known as "the smithsonian of new england,"
400
00:09:11,430 --> 00:09:15,670
the village holds over 100,000 artifacts,
401
00:09:15,700 --> 00:09:20,810
from cigar store indians to a full-sized carousel.
402
00:09:24,650 --> 00:09:26,750
one of the town's stranger sights
403
00:09:26,780 --> 00:09:31,620
is the 220-foot ticonderoga-- a graceful relic
404
00:02:11,450 --> 00:02:13,150
lake champlain.
405
00:01:05,210 --> 00:01:07,950
this northern state of stony fields,
406
00:01:07,980 --> 00:01:11,020
red painted barns and sugar maples
407
00:01:11,050 --> 00:01:13,520
is still a place where mad rivers run
408
00:01:13,560 --> 00:01:16,560
beneath covered bridges.
409
00:01:16,590 --> 00:01:19,200
vermont shows us an america
410
00:01:19,230 --> 00:01:23,500
young, green and full of promise.
411
00:02:00,570 --> 00:02:05,210
from the time the glaciers melted over 10,000 years ago,
412
00:02:05,240 --> 00:02:07,410
this vast body of water
413
00:02:07,440 --> 00:02:11,410
has defined the land and life around it.
414
00:01:00,610 --> 00:01:03,010
as "the road less traveled."
415
00:02:15,720 --> 00:02:21,620
120 miles long and in some places 12 miles wide.
416
00:02:25,260 --> 00:02:28,770
it lies deep in a valley carved by glaciers,
417
00:02:28,800 --> 00:02:31,200
with the adirondack mountains to the west
418
00:02:31,230 --> 00:02:33,870
and the green mountains to the east.
419
00:02:37,740 --> 00:02:40,480
today the skeletal remains of beluga whales
420
00:02:40,510 --> 00:02:42,280
are evidence that the lake was once a part
421
00:02:42,310 --> 00:02:46,050
of a salty inland arm of the atlantic ocean.
422
00:02:52,790 --> 00:02:54,160
the lake takes its name
423
00:02:54,190 --> 00:02:57,460
from the great french explorer samuel de champlain,
424
00:00:33,050 --> 00:00:34,950
the state whose lakes and land
425
00:00:02,720 --> 00:00:06,590
is as fiercely independent as vermont.
426
00:00:06,620 --> 00:00:08,330
the green mountain state,
427
00:00:08,360 --> 00:00:10,430
founded by an unruly bunch of yankees
428
00:00:10,460 --> 00:00:14,200
known as the green mountain boys.
429
00:00:14,230 --> 00:00:16,600
no other state is as "green"--
430
00:00:16,630 --> 00:00:22,240
in its trees, mountains, and quest for conservation.
431
00:00:22,270 --> 00:00:26,610
it was the first state in the union to abolish slavery.
432
00:00:26,640 --> 00:00:29,850
but also the state whose native indian population
433
00:00:29,880 --> 00:00:33,020
would all but disappear.
434
00:02:57,490 --> 00:03:00,330
known as the father of new france.
435
00:00:34,980 --> 00:00:37,290
were first explored by the french,
436
00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:40,960
but settled by the english.
437
00:00:40,990 --> 00:00:43,990
today its great lake still harbors a monster
438
00:00:44,030 --> 00:00:47,460
older than "nessie" of loch ness.
439
00:00:47,500 --> 00:00:50,900
its land is home to some of the most pristine farmland
440
00:00:50,930 --> 00:00:52,970
in the nation.
441
00:00:53,000 --> 00:00:54,800
its woods the inspiration
442
00:00:54,840 --> 00:00:58,240
for the great american poet robert frost,
443
00:00:58,270 --> 00:01:00,580
who perhaps best described vermont
444
00:04:52,610 --> 00:04:58,050
the loch ness monster-- 50 years after champ's debut.
445
00:04:17,540 --> 00:04:22,950
it's no surprise that mystery lurks deep within these waters.
446
00:04:22,980 --> 00:04:27,150
they are home to an elusive creature known as "champ"--
447
00:04:27,180 --> 00:04:30,420
america's very own loch ness monster.
448
00:04:32,990 --> 00:04:36,890
the first sighting of champ took place in 1609,
449
00:04:36,930 --> 00:04:38,560
when a member of the champlain expedition
450
00:04:38,590 --> 00:04:41,200
noted "a 20-foot serpent,
451
00:04:41,230 --> 00:04:45,500
with a horse-shaped head and body as thick as a keg."
452
00:04:48,640 --> 00:04:50,170
there were dozens more champ sightings
453
00:04:50,210 --> 00:04:52,580
before the first appearance of nessie--
454
00:04:15,140 --> 00:04:17,510
given the great age of the lake,
455
00:04:58,080 --> 00:05:01,320
but perhaps it's not surprising to find strange creatures
456
00:05:01,350 --> 00:05:05,520
in places like this.
457
00:05:05,560 --> 00:05:09,430
lake champlain and loch ness are quite similar.
458
00:05:09,460 --> 00:05:13,860
both are deep freshwater lakes created 10,000 years ago--
459
00:05:13,900 --> 00:05:17,970
perfect hideouts for shy monsters.
460
00:05:18,000 --> 00:05:20,540
while champ's existence is yet to be proven,
461
00:05:20,570 --> 00:05:23,670
his legend has been a boost for tourism.
462
00:05:29,210 --> 00:05:31,380
the next two islands of lake champlain--
463
00:05:31,410 --> 00:05:33,520
north and south hero--
464
00:03:39,540 --> 00:03:41,300
until the 20th century,
465
00:03:05,840 --> 00:03:10,170
in 1609, he headed south on the lake from canada,
466
00:03:10,210 --> 00:03:11,740
and was likely the first european
467
00:03:11,770 --> 00:03:14,440
to set foot on isle la motte.
468
00:03:19,580 --> 00:03:23,220
under these waters lies the chazy reef.
469
00:03:23,250 --> 00:03:26,790
scientists claim it's the world's oldest reef,
470
00:03:26,820 --> 00:03:30,890
where corals first appeared.
471
00:03:30,930 --> 00:03:33,560
formed half a billion years ago,
472
00:03:33,600 --> 00:03:35,800
it was part of an ancient ocean which covered
473
00:03:35,830 --> 00:03:39,500
most of the eastern north american continent.
474
00:11:02,810 --> 00:11:06,950
to reach their largest settlement--mississquoi.
475
00:03:41,340 --> 00:03:44,370
the only clues to the reef's scientific importance
476
00:03:44,410 --> 00:03:47,380
were the odd markings in the beautiful black limestone
477
00:03:47,410 --> 00:03:49,350
from the island's quarries.
478
00:03:52,920 --> 00:03:54,880
this stone was used in the construction
479
00:03:54,920 --> 00:03:58,450
of radio city music hall, the brooklyn bridge,
480
00:03:58,490 --> 00:04:02,060
and the national gallery of art.
481
00:04:02,090 --> 00:04:04,490
early quarry workers never knew
482
00:04:04,530 --> 00:04:06,760
that the strange marks on the rock
483
00:04:06,800 --> 00:04:10,700
were marine fossils half a billion years old.
484
00:18:59,390 --> 00:19:02,660
lasting maybe 15 years.
485
00:18:11,010 --> 00:18:12,810
explains why vermont is invaded
486
00:18:12,840 --> 00:18:16,240
by thousands of visitors every fall.
487
00:18:27,060 --> 00:18:30,960
in the green mountains lies the town of montgomery--
488
00:18:30,990 --> 00:18:33,700
covered bridge capital of vermont.
489
00:18:38,800 --> 00:18:43,770
for many, the bridges invoke nostalgia for a simpler time.
490
00:18:43,810 --> 00:18:45,610
but in the 19th century
491
00:18:45,640 --> 00:18:48,480
they were a remarkable engineering achievement
492
00:18:48,510 --> 00:18:51,750
that helped facilitate the growth of a young nation.
493
00:18:54,580 --> 00:18:56,850
battered by winter ice and snow,
494
00:18:56,890 --> 00:18:59,350
wooden bridges deteriorated quickly,
495
00:18:07,200 --> 00:18:10,970
surely one of nature's most extravagant displays of color--
496
00:19:02,690 --> 00:19:05,860
but building a cover to protect the massive structural beams
497
00:19:05,890 --> 00:19:09,730
could extend the life of a bridge by over 100 years.
498
00:19:15,140 --> 00:19:16,840
in the 1870s,
499
00:19:16,870 --> 00:19:21,110
10,000 covered bridges spanned the american landscape.
500
00:19:21,140 --> 00:19:24,580
today just 750 remain--
501
00:19:24,610 --> 00:19:27,580
with over 100 of them in vermont.
502
00:19:31,420 --> 00:19:34,860
six covered bridges still stand in montgomery--
503
00:19:34,890 --> 00:19:37,860
most of them still in use.
504
00:19:57,080 --> 00:19:59,050
east of the green mountains
505
00:17:29,830 --> 00:17:33,570
and the notch is closed.
506
00:16:55,330 --> 00:17:00,240
between politics and business during the war of 1812.
507
00:17:03,410 --> 00:17:06,810
despite america's ban against trade with canada,
508
00:17:06,840 --> 00:17:10,510
vermonters defied the law and smuggled beef through the notch
509
00:17:10,550 --> 00:17:13,250
to sell in british canada,
510
00:17:13,280 --> 00:17:17,950
while other vermonters fought to keep the british troops at bay.
511
00:17:17,990 --> 00:17:22,220
for both sides it must have been tough.
512
00:17:22,260 --> 00:17:23,830
in summer, the steep road
513
00:17:23,860 --> 00:17:27,300
forges a winding path through the mountains.
514
00:17:27,330 --> 00:17:29,800
but in winter, snow makes it impassable,
515
00:19:59,080 --> 00:20:04,550
lies the splendid isolation of the "northeast kingdom."
516
00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:35,840
and just like the old yankee yarn,
517
00:17:35,870 --> 00:17:39,040
when a visitor asks the way to the ski area at the notch,
518
00:17:39,070 --> 00:17:43,910
the locals' answer may be, "you can't get there from here."
519
00:17:47,320 --> 00:17:51,120
in fall, the sugar maple, vermont's state tree,
520
00:17:51,150 --> 00:17:53,690
turns the hills a fiery red,
521
00:17:53,720 --> 00:17:58,090
setting the hills ablaze with color.
522
00:17:58,130 --> 00:18:01,200
in spring, when the maples produce their sap,
523
00:18:01,230 --> 00:18:03,530
vermont's sugaring season begins.
524
00:18:05,400 --> 00:18:07,170
one glance at the foliage--
525
00:22:01,300 --> 00:22:04,770
a yankee tradition from colonial times.
526
00:21:28,700 --> 00:21:31,510
are warned to beware of moose,
527
00:21:31,540 --> 00:21:35,040
the most dangerous animals in the northern woods.
528
00:21:35,080 --> 00:21:39,880
moose don't just dent cars-- they total them.
529
00:21:43,350 --> 00:21:46,390
further south is the quintessential vermont town
530
00:21:46,420 --> 00:21:48,860
of craftsbury.
531
00:21:48,890 --> 00:21:52,460
it was founded in 1788 by ebenezer crafts,
532
00:21:52,490 --> 00:21:55,700
a revolutionary war veteran.
533
00:21:55,730 --> 00:21:57,770
like many new england towns,
534
00:21:57,800 --> 00:22:01,270
craftsbury retains its historic town common--
535
00:21:26,600 --> 00:21:28,670
in the kingdom, back-road travelers
536
00:22:06,170 --> 00:22:08,740
back then a common space in the village center
537
00:22:08,780 --> 00:22:11,980
was set aside for grazing sheep and cattle.
538
00:22:13,850 --> 00:22:17,190
while the days of free ranging livestock are gone,
539
00:22:17,220 --> 00:22:21,360
the tidy green commons remain.
540
00:22:21,390 --> 00:22:23,460
in the crisp light of autumn,
541
00:22:23,490 --> 00:22:26,860
the skies in the northeast kingdom seem bluer,
542
00:22:26,900 --> 00:22:32,670
the fields greener, and the trees exquisite.
543
00:22:32,700 --> 00:22:36,440
each fall, the foliage surrounding the town of peacham
544
00:22:36,470 --> 00:22:38,510
becomes one of the most photographed scenes
545
00:20:42,760 --> 00:20:48,600
the largest, lake willoughby, is shaped like a nordic fjord.
546
00:20:04,590 --> 00:20:06,820
it was named when a senator from vermont
547
00:20:06,860 --> 00:20:10,730
was struck by the area's natural splendor and said,
548
00:20:10,760 --> 00:20:13,400
"this is such beautiful country up here
549
00:20:13,430 --> 00:20:16,730
that it should be called the northeast kingdom."
550
00:20:22,800 --> 00:20:25,070
in fall, when the trees are ablaze
551
00:20:25,110 --> 00:20:28,180
in every shade of yellow and red,
552
00:20:28,210 --> 00:20:31,250
this could be the most beautiful place in america.
553
00:20:35,120 --> 00:20:37,790
here, forested hills open
554
00:20:37,820 --> 00:20:42,720
into one-church villages and gorgeous lakes.
555
00:16:53,030 --> 00:16:55,300
it became the scene of an historic clash
556
00:20:48,630 --> 00:20:50,100
formed by glaciers
557
00:20:50,130 --> 00:20:54,270
that carved out u-shaped valleys and spectacular cliffs,
558
00:20:54,300 --> 00:20:57,470
the lake covers nearly 1,700 acres.
559
00:21:02,580 --> 00:21:04,250
the northeastern frontier
560
00:21:04,280 --> 00:21:07,320
was settled later than other places in vermont,
561
00:21:07,350 --> 00:21:10,890
and most towns have populations in three figures.
562
00:21:14,760 --> 00:21:17,160
but the land sustains a way of life
563
00:21:17,190 --> 00:21:21,060
that has long since disappeared from most parts of the country.
564
00:21:23,100 --> 00:21:26,570
and yet, there are downsides.
565
00:13:18,680 --> 00:13:21,020
after taking a five-dollar correspondence course
566
00:12:46,380 --> 00:12:49,290
at one point henry ford tried to buy the church
567
00:12:49,320 --> 00:12:51,550
and move it to michigan.
568
00:12:51,590 --> 00:12:55,190
but the town's answer was a very firm "no!"
569
00:12:57,890 --> 00:13:01,860
just off the interstate heading north is waterbury,
570
00:13:01,900 --> 00:13:03,700
a town that holds a special place
571
00:13:03,730 --> 00:13:07,270
in the hearts of ice cream fans.
572
00:13:07,300 --> 00:13:11,170
this is the home of ben & jerry's ice cream factory,
573
00:13:11,210 --> 00:13:16,780
the culmination of an amazing american success story.
574
00:13:16,810 --> 00:13:18,650
back in 1978,
575
00:12:40,740 --> 00:12:43,550
were held for 160 years.
576
00:13:21,050 --> 00:13:23,290
in ice cream manufacturing,
577
00:13:23,320 --> 00:13:25,660
ben cohen and jerry greenfield
578
00:13:25,690 --> 00:13:29,890
opened ben & jerry's first ice cream store in burlington.
579
00:13:32,330 --> 00:13:33,900
today, from this building,
580
00:13:33,930 --> 00:13:37,370
thousands of gallons of cherry garcia and chunky monkey
581
00:13:37,400 --> 00:13:40,070
make their way to fans across the state
582
00:13:40,100 --> 00:13:42,270
and all over the world.
583
00:13:45,270 --> 00:13:48,110
for over 30 years, ben & jerry's has been known
584
00:13:48,140 --> 00:13:50,710
as a phenomenally successful business
585
00:12:01,300 --> 00:12:02,770
stands as a testament
586
00:11:12,690 --> 00:11:15,260
here they lived as farmers and hunters
587
00:11:15,290 --> 00:11:17,830
until the arrival of europeans,
588
00:11:17,860 --> 00:11:20,600
whose diseases and wars would bring an end
589
00:11:20,630 --> 00:11:23,230
to the abenaki way of life.
590
00:11:30,910 --> 00:11:35,410
today, the area is preserved as a wildlife refuge.
591
00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:46,420
and, while 2,500 abenaki still live here around the lake,
592
00:11:46,460 --> 00:11:49,730
much of their heritage is lost.
593
00:11:55,330 --> 00:11:57,870
moving east to richmond,
594
00:11:57,900 --> 00:12:01,270
here one of the most unusual buildings in the state
595
00:13:50,750 --> 00:13:54,220
with one of the best corporate reputations in america.
596
00:12:02,810 --> 00:12:06,110
to vermont's credo of religious freedom.
597
00:12:06,140 --> 00:12:09,910
it's known as the "old round church."
598
00:12:09,950 --> 00:12:15,120
although it appears round, it's actually 16-sided.
599
00:12:15,150 --> 00:12:18,790
as the story goes, 16 men built the church
600
00:12:18,820 --> 00:12:21,490
and the 17th built the belfry.
601
00:12:23,430 --> 00:12:27,500
one theory for its shape is that if the church has no corners
602
00:12:27,530 --> 00:12:30,200
there's nowhere for the devil to hide.
603
00:12:32,900 --> 00:12:37,370
in time, the round church became the town hall.
604
00:12:37,410 --> 00:12:40,710
here annual town meetings-- a vermont tradition--
605
00:16:10,450 --> 00:16:12,020
here the family began
606
00:15:32,710 --> 00:15:36,050
made from staves from a barrel.
607
00:15:36,080 --> 00:15:38,490
but skiing really took off with the creation
608
00:15:38,520 --> 00:15:42,420
of the country's first rope tow in 1934.
609
00:15:45,030 --> 00:15:49,870
today, stowe is one of the best ski mountains in new england.
610
00:15:49,900 --> 00:15:51,100
and although these hills aren't alive
611
00:15:51,130 --> 00:15:53,300
with the voice of julie andrews,
612
00:15:53,340 --> 00:15:56,510
they are home to the famous von trapp family.
613
00:15:58,840 --> 00:16:02,280
their story of a daring escape from nazi-occupied austria
614
00:16:02,310 --> 00:16:05,820
inspired the movie "the sound of music."
615
00:15:27,410 --> 00:15:32,680
in 1900, the first "skier" slid down the mountain on "skis"
616
00:16:12,050 --> 00:16:15,620
the country's first cross country ski center--
617
00:16:15,660 --> 00:16:19,160
the 2,400-acre trapp family lodge.
618
00:16:24,030 --> 00:16:26,370
the location, overlooking meadows,
619
00:16:26,400 --> 00:16:28,670
a valley and the green mountains
620
00:16:28,700 --> 00:16:31,770
has a distinctly austrian air.
621
00:16:37,310 --> 00:16:39,480
six miles north of stowe,
622
00:16:39,520 --> 00:16:42,850
travelers arrive at a dense, dark forest
623
00:16:42,890 --> 00:16:46,990
and a gorge, known as smugglers' notch.
624
00:16:49,490 --> 00:16:53,000
although this narrow pass had long been known for smuggling,
625
00:14:33,790 --> 00:14:36,330
"snowflake bentley," as he became known,
626
00:14:07,900 --> 00:14:11,400
winter in vermont is a time of deep snows...
627
00:14:11,430 --> 00:14:14,600
and wilson bentley.
628
00:14:14,640 --> 00:14:18,210
the most famous son of the little town of jericho
629
00:14:18,240 --> 00:14:19,980
was a man born very much
630
00:14:20,010 --> 00:14:23,250
in the right place at the right time.
631
00:14:23,280 --> 00:14:24,950
in 1885,
632
00:14:24,980 --> 00:14:27,820
bentley combined the new technology of photography
633
00:14:27,850 --> 00:14:29,250
with a microscope
634
00:14:29,280 --> 00:14:31,650
to study the snowflake.
635
00:00:01,180 --> 00:00:02,690
perhaps no other state
636
00:14:36,360 --> 00:14:37,760
was the first person to discover
637
00:14:37,790 --> 00:14:40,930
that no two snowflakes are alike.
638
00:14:46,440 --> 00:14:51,240
today much of what we know about snow is based on his research.
639
00:15:00,620 --> 00:15:04,450
in the 20th century, snow became a goldmine
640
00:15:04,490 --> 00:15:07,490
for the 200-year-old town of stowe,
641
00:15:07,520 --> 00:15:09,990
located on mount mansfield.
642
00:15:12,830 --> 00:15:17,670
at over 4,000 feet, it's the tallest mountain in vermont.
643
00:15:17,700 --> 00:15:19,270
and the views from the summit
644
00:15:19,300 --> 00:15:22,600
are well worth the four-hour hike to the top.
51235
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