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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:04,162 WWW.MY-SUBS.CO 1 00:00:01,733 --> 00:00:04,033 >> Earth--a unique planet-- 2 00:00:04,335 --> 00:00:06,535 restless and dynamic 3 00:00:09,534 --> 00:00:12,469 Continents shift and clash. 4 00:00:12,537 --> 00:00:16,273 Volcanoes erupt, glaciers grow 5 00:00:16,374 --> 00:00:18,742 and recede. 6 00:00:18,810 --> 00:00:20,243 Titanic forces that are 7 00:00:20,278 --> 00:00:22,445 constantly at work, leaving 8 00:00:22,547 --> 00:00:24,181 a trail of geological mysteries 9 00:00:24,282 --> 00:00:26,917 behind. 10 00:00:26,984 --> 00:00:29,619 This episode explores Yosemite 11 00:00:29,720 --> 00:00:32,355 Valley, a magnificent 12 00:00:32,456 --> 00:00:35,826 3,000-foot-deep canyon. 13 00:00:35,893 --> 00:00:37,460 Traveling through time, 14 00:00:37,528 --> 00:00:39,629 scientists are unlocking deep 15 00:00:39,730 --> 00:00:41,965 Secrets trapped inside these 16 00:00:41,999 --> 00:00:44,634 granite walls. 17 00:00:44,702 --> 00:00:47,637 These rocks have literally been 18 00:00:47,705 --> 00:00:50,607 to hell and back, frozen, 19 00:00:50,641 --> 00:00:52,876 drenched, and battered by 20 00:00:52,910 --> 00:00:54,911 earth-shattering forces. 21 00:00:54,979 --> 00:00:56,880 One more chapter in the 22 00:00:56,914 --> 00:00:57,815 incredible story of... 23 00:00:57,816 --> 00:01:02,416 Yosemite Original Air Date on December 22, 2009 24 00:01:02,453 --> 00:01:05,355 -- Sync, corrected by elderman -- -- for MY-SUBS.com --- 25 00:01:06,524 --> 00:01:07,991 In the foothills of the mighty 26 00:01:08,059 --> 00:01:09,960 Sierra Nevada, California, lies 27 00:01:09,994 --> 00:01:11,695 a valley like no other on 28 00:01:11,729 --> 00:01:15,799 earth--Yosemite, a 7-mile-long, 29 00:01:15,900 --> 00:01:18,802 one-mile-wide granite canyon. 30 00:01:18,903 --> 00:01:20,537 Here lie some of the most 31 00:01:20,605 --> 00:01:22,539 awe-inspiring geological 32 00:01:22,607 --> 00:01:24,507 features on the planet: 33 00:01:24,542 --> 00:01:26,243 Half Dome--America's most 34 00:01:26,344 --> 00:01:29,446 iconic peak; Yosemite Falls-- 35 00:01:29,513 --> 00:01:31,314 the highest unbroken waterfall 36 00:01:31,349 --> 00:01:33,516 on the continent; 37 00:01:33,584 --> 00:01:35,518 And El Capitan--one of the 38 00:01:35,586 --> 00:01:37,153 biggest sheer cliffs in the 39 00:01:37,221 --> 00:01:39,789 world. 40 00:01:39,857 --> 00:01:41,524 The europeans discovered this 41 00:01:41,626 --> 00:01:43,627 astonishing valley only 150 42 00:01:43,694 --> 00:01:45,695 years ago. 43 00:01:45,763 --> 00:01:47,797 >> These sheer walls and granite 44 00:01:47,865 --> 00:01:49,299 cliffs and high waterfalls were 45 00:01:49,333 --> 00:01:52,168 a marvel to them as it is to us. 46 00:01:52,236 --> 00:01:54,070 >> Ever since it shot to fame, 47 00:01:54,171 --> 00:01:55,872 Yosemite has been shrouded in 48 00:01:55,940 --> 00:01:57,874 mystery. 49 00:01:57,875 --> 00:01:59,709 >> It's almost as if there was 50 00:01:59,777 --> 00:02:01,144 a higher power at work that 51 00:02:01,245 --> 00:02:02,312 basically said, "that looks 52 00:02:02,346 --> 00:02:04,247 really good right about there, 53 00:02:04,248 --> 00:02:05,248 and let's just put a little bit 54 00:02:05,316 --> 00:02:06,716 of grass right there, and some 55 00:02:06,784 --> 00:02:08,118 oak, like, an oak woodland right 56 00:02:08,152 --> 00:02:09,886 through there, and that's it! 57 00:02:09,987 --> 00:02:11,254 That's perfect!" because it 58 00:02:11,322 --> 00:02:12,255 doesn't seem like anything was 59 00:02:12,323 --> 00:02:14,157 haphazard. It seems like this 60 00:02:14,258 --> 00:02:16,126 was designed to overwhelm and 61 00:02:16,160 --> 00:02:18,795 then leave people awestruck. 62 00:02:18,863 --> 00:02:20,864 >> Yosemite's unique design has 63 00:02:20,932 --> 00:02:22,699 intrigued scientists for 64 00:02:22,767 --> 00:02:24,701 centuries. 65 00:02:24,769 --> 00:02:25,502 >> I think when you see 66 00:02:25,603 --> 00:02:26,403 something that is this 67 00:02:26,437 --> 00:02:27,337 dramatic, you just have 68 00:02:27,405 --> 00:02:28,505 questions, and the question is, 69 00:02:28,572 --> 00:02:30,040 how did this happen? How do you 70 00:02:30,074 --> 00:02:31,408 get monoliths, these huge 71 00:02:31,475 --> 00:02:33,677 stone structures that are just 72 00:02:33,778 --> 00:02:35,412 rising thousands of feet off the 73 00:02:35,513 --> 00:02:36,746 valley floor? How does that come 74 00:02:36,781 --> 00:02:38,248 to pass? And for over a hundred 75 00:02:38,316 --> 00:02:39,516 years, people have been trying 76 00:02:39,583 --> 00:02:43,420 to answer that question. 77 00:02:43,521 --> 00:02:45,588 >> The story begins in 1870, 78 00:02:45,690 --> 00:02:47,691 when amateur geologist John Muir 79 00:02:47,792 --> 00:02:49,859 went hunting for the answer. 80 00:02:49,927 --> 00:02:52,228 Founder of the Sierra Club, he 81 00:02:52,330 --> 00:02:53,863 funded his obsession with the 82 00:02:53,965 --> 00:02:55,699 valley by herding sheep and 83 00:02:55,766 --> 00:02:58,501 writing articles about Yosemite. 84 00:02:58,569 --> 00:03:00,770 He wrote that "no temple made 85 00:03:00,871 --> 00:03:03,239 with hands can compare with 86 00:03:03,307 --> 00:03:07,777 Yosemite." 87 00:03:07,845 --> 00:03:10,146 Muir scoured the landscape for 88 00:03:10,247 --> 00:03:12,215 clues as to how this unusual, 89 00:03:12,249 --> 00:03:15,218 box-shaped canyon formed 90 00:03:15,319 --> 00:03:17,387 and came up with a radical, 91 00:03:17,421 --> 00:03:20,223 seemingly far-fetched theory. 92 00:03:20,291 --> 00:03:21,324 He believed that the world's 93 00:03:21,392 --> 00:03:23,026 climate was once extremely 94 00:03:23,060 --> 00:03:24,861 different, and the lush canyon 95 00:03:24,929 --> 00:03:26,429 where the Merced River flows was 96 00:03:26,497 --> 00:03:28,665 filled by a gigantic glacier 97 00:03:28,699 --> 00:03:31,034 thousands of feet thick. 98 00:03:31,102 --> 00:03:32,936 Muir proposed that as this river 99 00:03:32,970 --> 00:03:34,871 of ice slowly flowed downhill, 100 00:03:34,972 --> 00:03:36,673 over thousands of years, it 101 00:03:36,774 --> 00:03:38,842 gouged a deep canyon and sliced 102 00:03:38,876 --> 00:03:40,610 vertical cliffs into the granite 103 00:03:40,678 --> 00:03:43,580 walls. But that controversial 104 00:03:43,681 --> 00:03:45,148 idea brought him into conflict 105 00:03:45,216 --> 00:03:46,783 with a fearsome opponent-- 106 00:03:46,851 --> 00:03:48,485 the admired California state 107 00:03:48,586 --> 00:03:50,587 geologist, professor Josiah 108 00:03:50,654 --> 00:03:53,223 Whitney. 109 00:03:53,290 --> 00:03:54,591 >> Josiah Whitney did not have 110 00:03:54,692 --> 00:03:56,593 much respect for John Muir 111 00:03:56,694 --> 00:03:58,395 because Josiah Whitney was the 112 00:03:58,496 --> 00:03:59,863 State geologist, and at that 113 00:03:59,930 --> 00:04:02,832 time, John Muir was herding 114 00:04:02,867 --> 00:04:05,201 sheep. Certainly he's thinking, 115 00:04:05,236 --> 00:04:07,470 what does this man know about 116 00:04:07,505 --> 00:04:10,106 this range? How dare he? 117 00:04:10,141 --> 00:04:11,574 >> Whitney believed that this 118 00:04:11,675 --> 00:04:13,676 unusually square, steep-sided 119 00:04:13,744 --> 00:04:14,944 valley could only have been 120 00:04:15,012 --> 00:04:17,213 formed by a sudden, cataclysmic 121 00:04:17,314 --> 00:04:20,116 event. He was adamant that giant 122 00:04:20,217 --> 00:04:21,751 cracks in the earth caused the 123 00:04:21,786 --> 00:04:23,386 valley to pull apart and 124 00:04:23,487 --> 00:04:26,456 dranatically sink... 125 00:04:26,490 --> 00:04:29,092 cleaving steep cliffs as it 126 00:04:29,126 --> 00:04:31,394 fell. 127 00:04:31,495 --> 00:04:33,296 This bitter Whitney-Muir 128 00:04:33,397 --> 00:04:35,465 conflict raged on for decades, 129 00:04:35,499 --> 00:04:37,734 but now scientists are hoping to 130 00:04:37,768 --> 00:04:39,469 figure out this complex puzzle 131 00:04:39,503 --> 00:04:42,472 once and for all. The first 132 00:04:42,506 --> 00:04:43,940 stage of the investigation is to 133 00:04:44,008 --> 00:04:45,508 understand how the rocks 134 00:04:45,576 --> 00:04:47,844 themselves were created. The 135 00:04:47,912 --> 00:04:50,213 canyon is made almost entirely 136 00:04:50,314 --> 00:04:52,315 of Yosemite granite, one of the 137 00:04:52,383 --> 00:04:54,951 hardest rocks in the world. 138 00:04:55,019 --> 00:04:56,853 To understand how this formed, 139 00:04:56,954 --> 00:04:59,122 scientists must travel back in 140 00:04:59,223 --> 00:05:03,593 time to the beginning. 141 00:05:03,661 --> 00:05:07,130 It's 250 million years ago, and 142 00:05:07,198 --> 00:05:10,033 the landscape is very different. 143 00:05:10,101 --> 00:05:12,402 Dinosaurs roam the land and 144 00:05:12,470 --> 00:05:15,305 dominate the skies. 145 00:05:15,372 --> 00:05:17,207 [dinosaurs screeching] 146 00:05:17,308 --> 00:05:19,676 An incredibly rare remnant of 147 00:05:19,743 --> 00:05:21,277 that time has been discovered 148 00:05:21,312 --> 00:05:23,012 Northwest of the valley at 149 00:05:23,047 --> 00:05:25,482 Mount Hoffman. 150 00:05:25,549 --> 00:05:27,283 This patch of softer, reddish 151 00:05:27,318 --> 00:05:30,286 rock is the oldest in the park. 152 00:05:30,321 --> 00:05:32,722 It's sandstone, and it once 153 00:05:32,756 --> 00:05:35,458 covered the entire region. 154 00:05:35,459 --> 00:05:37,760 >> This rock is very different 155 00:05:37,828 --> 00:05:38,561 than most of the rock in 156 00:05:38,629 --> 00:05:39,963 Yosemite. It's much darker in 157 00:05:40,030 --> 00:05:41,931 color, got a different texture. 158 00:05:41,932 --> 00:05:42,832 This was originally a 159 00:05:42,933 --> 00:05:43,933 sedimentary rock that was 160 00:05:44,001 --> 00:05:46,469 deposited in layers. 161 00:05:46,570 --> 00:05:48,471 >> On an ancient shore, sand and 162 00:05:48,539 --> 00:05:51,040 sludge compacted together and, 163 00:05:51,108 --> 00:05:52,475 over millions of years, formed 164 00:05:52,576 --> 00:05:55,645 this sandstone. This tranquil 165 00:05:55,679 --> 00:05:57,714 landscape was transformed by an 166 00:05:57,748 --> 00:05:59,482 earth-shattering event deep 167 00:05:59,583 --> 00:06:01,184 below the surface, and the 168 00:06:01,218 --> 00:06:04,654 evidence lies here in the rock. 169 00:06:04,722 --> 00:06:05,922 >> Here we have this older, 170 00:06:06,023 --> 00:06:07,924 layered sedimentary rock, and 171 00:06:07,992 --> 00:06:09,926 you see that many layers and 172 00:06:10,027 --> 00:06:12,128 banding, which continues across 173 00:06:12,196 --> 00:06:14,731 over in here. But, strangely, 174 00:06:14,765 --> 00:06:16,399 yhis section of granite has cut 175 00:06:16,467 --> 00:06:17,300 tight through the sedimentary 176 00:06:17,401 --> 00:06:19,002 rock and split this section 177 00:06:19,036 --> 00:06:22,605 in two. 178 00:06:22,673 --> 00:06:24,674 >> How this unusual rock 179 00:06:24,742 --> 00:06:26,743 formation formed can be 180 00:06:26,844 --> 00:06:28,578 explained by a simple experiment 181 00:06:28,646 --> 00:06:30,713 using sand and wax. 182 00:06:30,748 --> 00:06:32,815 >> This red wax here represents 183 00:06:32,850 --> 00:06:34,717 the granite, the sand represents 184 00:06:34,752 --> 00:06:37,287 sedimentary rock, and right now 185 00:06:37,354 --> 00:06:38,288 I'm heating it to see what's 186 00:06:38,389 --> 00:06:39,255 going to happen when the wax 187 00:06:39,290 --> 00:06:42,192 melts. Actually I start to hear 188 00:06:42,259 --> 00:06:43,493 some--oh, here it goes. We're 189 00:06:43,527 --> 00:06:45,328 actually getting a little bit of 190 00:06:45,362 --> 00:06:47,497 the wax pushing up through the 191 00:06:47,531 --> 00:06:49,899 sand. And the molten wax is 192 00:06:49,967 --> 00:06:52,068 lighter, and so it's pushing its 193 00:06:52,136 --> 00:06:53,803 way up through the sand, which 194 00:06:53,871 --> 00:06:55,438 represents the sedimentary rock. 195 00:06:55,539 --> 00:06:57,907 Yep, here's some more. 196 00:06:57,975 --> 00:06:59,809 >> It proves the only way 197 00:06:59,877 --> 00:07:01,177 granite could have cut through 198 00:07:01,245 --> 00:07:02,946 this sandstone is if it was 199 00:07:02,980 --> 00:07:04,881 originally molten and able to 200 00:07:04,982 --> 00:07:07,584 flow like a liquid. 201 00:07:07,618 --> 00:07:09,586 >> molten rock forms deep within 202 00:07:09,687 --> 00:07:11,221 the earth, rises up through the 203 00:07:11,255 --> 00:07:13,323 crust, in this case, forced its 204 00:07:13,390 --> 00:07:15,658 way through a crack, expanding 205 00:07:15,759 --> 00:07:18,127 it open, and then cooling and 206 00:07:18,195 --> 00:07:19,729 solidifying to form this band 207 00:07:19,763 --> 00:07:21,197 of granite. 208 00:07:21,232 --> 00:07:22,365 >> This band of granite tells 209 00:07:22,399 --> 00:07:23,766 scientists that Yosemite's 210 00:07:23,834 --> 00:07:25,835 cliffs were once molten and 211 00:07:25,869 --> 00:07:27,737 heated to 1,800 degrees 212 00:07:27,771 --> 00:07:29,639 fahrenheit. 213 00:07:29,673 --> 00:07:31,040 >> 95% percent of the rock in 214 00:07:31,108 --> 00:07:33,042 Yosemite is granite, and I can 215 00:07:33,110 --> 00:07:34,544 see with the naked eye all the 216 00:07:34,578 --> 00:07:36,279 crystals in here. They're fairly 217 00:07:36,313 --> 00:07:37,647 large, and that tells me that 218 00:07:37,681 --> 00:07:39,382 this rock cooled very slowly. 219 00:07:39,450 --> 00:07:40,917 >> Scientists were now on the 220 00:07:40,951 --> 00:07:42,485 hunt for what was generating all 221 00:07:42,586 --> 00:07:45,588 this molten rock. 222 00:07:45,656 --> 00:07:47,957 The investigation led them to 223 00:07:48,025 --> 00:07:50,126 Mount Gibbs, another unusually 224 00:07:50,227 --> 00:07:51,661 colored mountain in the northern 225 00:07:51,729 --> 00:07:54,831 reaches of the park. 226 00:07:54,932 --> 00:07:57,834 It lies above a layer of granite 227 00:07:57,901 --> 00:07:59,769 and is made from reddish-gray 228 00:07:59,837 --> 00:08:03,072 rock. 229 00:08:03,173 --> 00:08:05,141 Strangely, these rocks were 230 00:08:05,209 --> 00:08:06,743 also once molten. 231 00:08:06,844 --> 00:08:08,111 >> Here I have a rock from Mount 232 00:08:08,212 --> 00:08:10,280 Gibbs, and I can see that most 233 00:08:10,314 --> 00:08:11,581 of the crystals are very, very 234 00:08:11,649 --> 00:08:12,849 small. Most of them I can't 235 00:08:12,916 --> 00:08:14,017 even see. 236 00:08:14,118 --> 00:08:15,485 >> These small crystals tell 237 00:08:15,552 --> 00:08:18,021 an incredible story. When molten 238 00:08:18,088 --> 00:08:19,722 rock cools quickly in the open 239 00:08:19,757 --> 00:08:21,457 air, crystals don't have time 240 00:08:21,492 --> 00:08:23,259 to grow. 241 00:08:23,294 --> 00:08:24,294 >> What that tells me is that 242 00:08:24,361 --> 00:08:25,928 this is a volcanic rock that was 243 00:08:25,996 --> 00:08:29,766 spewed out at the surface. 244 00:08:29,833 --> 00:08:32,835 >> It is 200 million years ago. 245 00:08:32,936 --> 00:08:34,804 Volcanoes shatter the tranquil 246 00:08:34,838 --> 00:08:37,473 West coast. The earth explodes 247 00:08:37,574 --> 00:08:40,476 with molten rock. For the next 248 00:08:40,577 --> 00:08:42,945 100 million years, lava pours 249 00:08:43,013 --> 00:08:44,914 thick and fast onto the land, 250 00:08:44,948 --> 00:08:46,549 covering the sandstone in 251 00:08:46,583 --> 00:08:51,120 volcanic rock 10,000 feet high. 252 00:08:51,188 --> 00:08:54,023 It stretches for 400 miles along 253 00:08:54,124 --> 00:08:56,659 the coast. 254 00:08:56,760 --> 00:08:58,294 North America's greatest 255 00:08:58,395 --> 00:08:59,829 mountain chain--the mighty 256 00:08:59,897 --> 00:09:02,031 Sierra Nevada--is forming, and 257 00:09:02,099 --> 00:09:03,533 the area that would become 258 00:09:03,567 --> 00:09:05,268 Yosemite is caught right in the 259 00:09:05,302 --> 00:09:07,737 middle of it. 260 00:09:07,838 --> 00:09:10,073 But some of this rising, molten 261 00:09:10,107 --> 00:09:11,574 rock never makes it to the 262 00:09:11,642 --> 00:09:13,843 surface. Trapped beneath the 263 00:09:13,911 --> 00:09:15,645 blanket of mountains, it cools 264 00:09:15,713 --> 00:09:18,281 slowly, creating a giant chamber 265 00:09:18,349 --> 00:09:20,283 full of solidifying granite 266 00:09:20,351 --> 00:09:23,453 two miles below the surface. 267 00:09:23,487 --> 00:09:26,723 400 miles long, 60 miles wide, 268 00:09:26,757 --> 00:09:29,092 and 5 miles deep, it stretches 269 00:09:29,159 --> 00:09:31,094 along the entire spine of the 270 00:09:31,161 --> 00:09:33,262 Sierra Nevada mountain range. 271 00:09:33,297 --> 00:09:34,931 Yosemite's immense granite 272 00:09:34,998 --> 00:09:37,100 monoliths were forged in a fiery 273 00:09:37,201 --> 00:09:40,470 furnace two miles below ground. 274 00:09:40,537 --> 00:09:42,071 >> A hundred million years ago, 275 00:09:42,106 --> 00:09:43,806 I would have been standing in a 276 00:09:43,841 --> 00:09:46,109 vast chamber of molten rock, 277 00:09:46,210 --> 00:09:47,910 with rock rising thousands of 278 00:09:48,011 --> 00:09:51,481 feet above me. 279 00:09:51,548 --> 00:09:53,883 >> Scientists investigating how 280 00:09:53,951 --> 00:09:55,518 the rocks at Yosemite formed 281 00:09:55,586 --> 00:09:58,721 have found... 282 00:09:58,789 --> 00:10:01,057 bands of granite--evidence 283 00:10:01,158 --> 00:10:02,325 Yosemite's rocks were once 284 00:10:02,426 --> 00:10:04,327 molten... 285 00:10:04,428 --> 00:10:06,696 and volcanic rocks--proof that 286 00:10:06,797 --> 00:10:08,331 the granite formed deep beneath 287 00:10:08,399 --> 00:10:10,433 the earth. 288 00:10:10,501 --> 00:10:11,801 But scientists were still 289 00:10:11,869 --> 00:10:14,237 mystified. Yosemite granite is 290 00:10:14,304 --> 00:10:16,572 so strong, it's unlike granite 291 00:10:16,607 --> 00:10:18,775 anywhere else on earth. 292 00:10:18,809 --> 00:10:20,343 For hundreds of years, they 293 00:10:20,444 --> 00:10:21,978 tried to solve the mystery, 294 00:10:22,012 --> 00:10:23,946 while the answer was actually 295 00:10:23,981 --> 00:10:26,221 staring them in the face. 296 00:10:30,436 --> 00:10:32,370 >> 250 million years ago, 297 00:10:32,438 --> 00:10:34,105 Yosemite's landscape was a 298 00:10:34,173 --> 00:10:38,610 peaceful coastal plain. 299 00:10:38,644 --> 00:10:40,178 Now the investigation moves to 300 00:10:40,279 --> 00:10:42,280 100 million years ago. 301 00:10:42,348 --> 00:10:43,348 The land that would become 302 00:10:43,416 --> 00:10:45,717 Yosemite is in turmoil. 303 00:10:45,785 --> 00:10:47,485 Volcanoes dot the skyline, 304 00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:49,287 spilling mountains of lava onto 305 00:10:49,321 --> 00:10:52,057 the land. 306 00:10:55,061 --> 00:10:57,495 And entombed beneath two miles 307 00:10:57,563 --> 00:10:59,597 of volcanic rock lies Yosemite's 308 00:10:59,665 --> 00:11:01,599 molten granite. 309 00:11:01,667 --> 00:11:03,601 The next ten million years is a 310 00:11:03,669 --> 00:11:05,036 critical period for the rocks 311 00:11:05,137 --> 00:11:06,738 of Yosemite. 312 00:11:06,772 --> 00:11:08,306 Something unique is happening to 313 00:11:08,407 --> 00:11:10,208 the granite, making it tough 314 00:11:10,242 --> 00:11:12,410 enough to hold up cliffs 3,000 315 00:11:12,478 --> 00:11:16,681 feet high. 316 00:11:16,749 --> 00:11:18,049 The search for the secret of 317 00:11:18,117 --> 00:11:19,517 Yosemite granite's immense 318 00:11:19,585 --> 00:11:21,319 strength led scientists to the 319 00:11:21,387 --> 00:11:23,388 biggest steep-sided granite 320 00:11:23,422 --> 00:11:26,057 block in the world--the mighty 321 00:11:26,125 --> 00:11:28,760 El Capitan. 322 00:11:33,466 --> 00:11:35,033 Twice the height of the Empire 323 00:11:35,101 --> 00:11:37,669 State building, over 3 billion 324 00:11:37,736 --> 00:11:40,672 cubic feet of rock rises into 325 00:11:40,739 --> 00:11:46,478 the air. 326 00:11:46,512 --> 00:11:48,279 >> El Capitan is the largest 327 00:11:48,314 --> 00:11:49,781 Granite monolith in Yosemite 328 00:11:49,849 --> 00:11:51,683 National Park--3,000 feet of 329 00:11:51,784 --> 00:11:54,185 pure granite. It's one of the 330 00:11:54,220 --> 00:11:55,820 biggest cliffs in the world. 331 00:11:55,855 --> 00:11:57,055 When I look up at something like 332 00:11:57,123 --> 00:11:58,323 this, I really want to hang onto 333 00:11:58,390 --> 00:11:59,491 the rock because I feel like I'm 334 00:11:59,592 --> 00:12:00,758 going to fall backwards with 335 00:12:00,826 --> 00:12:03,862 vertigo. Amazing. 336 00:12:12,638 --> 00:12:14,873 >> El Capitan is the ultimate 337 00:12:14,940 --> 00:12:17,775 "big wall" climb. Once 338 00:12:17,843 --> 00:12:19,043 considered impossible to 339 00:12:19,111 --> 00:12:20,578 conquer, it's a treacherous 340 00:12:20,679 --> 00:12:22,480 ascent up a vertical, near 341 00:12:22,581 --> 00:12:25,016 featureless rock face, with only 342 00:12:25,050 --> 00:12:26,384 a handful of routes to the 343 00:12:26,418 --> 00:12:27,952 summit. 344 00:12:28,020 --> 00:12:30,021 Sheer granite walls are normally 345 00:12:30,122 --> 00:12:32,123 unstable and over time get 346 00:12:32,191 --> 00:12:34,559 pulled down by erosion, so it 347 00:12:34,593 --> 00:12:36,294 was a mystery how rocks could 348 00:12:36,395 --> 00:12:39,130 hold up cliffs this big. 349 00:12:39,198 --> 00:12:41,566 [rhythmic tapping] 350 00:12:41,634 --> 00:12:43,201 Scientists are sampling the 351 00:12:43,269 --> 00:12:45,136 rocks to find out, but the 352 00:12:45,204 --> 00:12:47,138 Yosemite granite doesn't give in 353 00:12:47,206 --> 00:12:49,307 without a fight. 354 00:12:49,408 --> 00:12:52,043 >> Whew! These Yosemite granites 355 00:12:52,111 --> 00:12:53,478 are really hard. You can work up 356 00:12:53,579 --> 00:12:54,679 quite a sweat trying to collect 357 00:12:54,747 --> 00:13:00,218 a bagful of this stuff. 358 00:13:00,286 --> 00:13:02,020 >> Buried within this rock is 359 00:13:02,121 --> 00:13:04,756 the secret to Yosemite granite's 360 00:13:04,823 --> 00:13:07,458 success. 361 00:13:07,493 --> 00:13:12,630 >> Oh, finally. 362 00:13:12,631 --> 00:13:14,399 Well, one clue to why these 363 00:13:14,466 --> 00:13:15,767 rocks are so tough is given by 364 00:13:15,834 --> 00:13:18,203 this sample right here. 365 00:13:18,204 --> 00:13:21,306 These are really large crystals. 366 00:13:21,373 --> 00:13:23,474 Large crystals make a rock 367 00:13:23,576 --> 00:13:24,475 really strong and they kind of 368 00:13:24,543 --> 00:13:25,643 weld together and they're 369 00:13:25,678 --> 00:13:27,011 flawless and they give a rock 370 00:13:27,079 --> 00:13:28,179 a lot of strength. 371 00:13:28,214 --> 00:13:29,480 >> But it was a mystery how 372 00:13:29,548 --> 00:13:31,082 these tough crystals got so 373 00:13:31,116 --> 00:13:33,384 large and created such flawless 374 00:13:33,485 --> 00:13:36,588 rocks. 375 00:13:36,655 --> 00:13:38,356 This is in contrast to normal 376 00:13:38,390 --> 00:13:40,191 granite, which, when it cools, 377 00:13:40,259 --> 00:13:42,493 forms a hard rock with a fatal 378 00:13:42,561 --> 00:13:45,129 flaw. 379 00:13:45,197 --> 00:13:46,931 Riddled with cracks, these rocks 380 00:13:46,999 --> 00:13:49,400 are vulnerable to erosion. 381 00:13:49,468 --> 00:13:50,935 >> If you take anything and it's 382 00:13:51,003 --> 00:13:52,103 very hot and you cool it 383 00:13:52,171 --> 00:13:55,373 quickly, it'll shatter. 384 00:13:55,441 --> 00:13:56,941 Granite bodies that cool 385 00:13:57,009 --> 00:13:58,543 quickly form a lot of cracks 386 00:13:58,577 --> 00:14:00,011 that weaken the rock body and 387 00:14:00,112 --> 00:14:01,913 make it unable to support 388 00:14:02,014 --> 00:14:03,748 3,000-foot cliffs. 389 00:14:03,849 --> 00:14:05,483 If you walk up to a typical 390 00:14:05,551 --> 00:14:06,718 granite and look at it, you'll 391 00:14:06,752 --> 00:14:08,453 find cracks a foot apart, two 392 00:14:08,487 --> 00:14:10,722 feet apart. If you walk up to 393 00:14:10,756 --> 00:14:11,889 El Capitan, you might have to 394 00:14:11,924 --> 00:14:13,625 go a hundred feet or more 395 00:14:13,659 --> 00:14:16,761 between cracks in the rock. 396 00:14:16,829 --> 00:14:18,263 >> Clearly, something different 397 00:14:18,297 --> 00:14:20,398 happened here 100 million years 398 00:14:20,466 --> 00:14:22,300 ago. 399 00:14:22,368 --> 00:14:24,569 >> El Capitan is really just one 400 00:14:24,670 --> 00:14:27,438 large, uniform, essentially 401 00:14:27,473 --> 00:14:29,474 faultless piece of granite, and 402 00:14:29,575 --> 00:14:31,009 that makes it very difficult for 403 00:14:31,076 --> 00:14:33,177 erosion to deal with. 404 00:14:33,212 --> 00:14:34,345 >> For many years, it was 405 00:14:34,380 --> 00:14:35,647 a puzzle what had caused 406 00:14:35,748 --> 00:14:37,348 Yosemite granite to form so 407 00:14:37,383 --> 00:14:39,617 differently. But the secret had 408 00:14:39,652 --> 00:14:41,386 been staring scientists in the 409 00:14:41,453 --> 00:14:43,021 face. 410 00:14:43,088 --> 00:14:44,188 >> One of the things you can see 411 00:14:44,256 --> 00:14:46,157 is a clue as to how this 412 00:14:46,191 --> 00:14:48,626 landscape formed in that dark, 413 00:14:48,661 --> 00:14:52,297 diagonal splotch. 414 00:14:52,364 --> 00:14:53,998 That's called the North American 415 00:14:54,066 --> 00:14:55,633 wall because that dark blob 416 00:14:55,668 --> 00:14:57,468 looks like, with some 417 00:14:57,569 --> 00:14:59,203 imagination, a map of North 418 00:14:59,271 --> 00:15:01,272 America and you can kind of see 419 00:15:01,373 --> 00:15:02,807 Baja California sticking down on 420 00:15:02,908 --> 00:15:04,742 the left side there and Alaska 421 00:15:04,843 --> 00:15:06,377 up to the northwest. 422 00:15:06,445 --> 00:15:07,845 And it's made up of a much 423 00:15:07,913 --> 00:15:09,480 darker, finer-grained rock 424 00:15:09,548 --> 00:15:10,815 like this. 425 00:15:10,916 --> 00:15:12,450 >> This dark granite is not just 426 00:15:12,551 --> 00:15:14,452 a map of North America. 427 00:15:14,553 --> 00:15:17,021 It's a window into the unique 428 00:15:17,089 --> 00:15:18,656 events that happened inside the 429 00:15:18,724 --> 00:15:20,458 Yosemite granite, when it was 430 00:15:20,559 --> 00:15:22,727 buried deep beneath the earth. 431 00:15:22,828 --> 00:15:24,195 >> And it's a younger body of 432 00:15:24,296 --> 00:15:26,464 granitic rock that filled a 433 00:15:26,532 --> 00:15:29,200 crack within the main body of 434 00:15:29,268 --> 00:15:31,903 El Capitan granite. 435 00:15:31,970 --> 00:15:34,472 >> 100 million years ago, the 436 00:15:34,540 --> 00:15:36,374 main body of granite cools and 437 00:15:36,475 --> 00:15:37,909 begins to harden beneath the 438 00:15:38,010 --> 00:15:40,511 earth. 439 00:15:40,546 --> 00:15:42,914 But then fresh, molten rock 440 00:15:42,981 --> 00:15:44,982 invades a crack and injects it 441 00:15:45,017 --> 00:15:46,918 with a blast of heat. 442 00:15:47,019 --> 00:15:49,153 The granite now takes ten times 443 00:15:49,188 --> 00:15:52,623 longer to cool. Huge, robust 444 00:15:52,725 --> 00:15:55,059 crystals form and reseal the 445 00:15:55,094 --> 00:15:57,695 defective cracks. Time after 446 00:15:57,730 --> 00:15:59,997 Time, fresh molten rock invades 447 00:16:00,099 --> 00:16:02,200 old, re-melting and welding 448 00:16:02,267 --> 00:16:04,635 the Yosemite granite, creating 449 00:16:04,703 --> 00:16:06,904 gigantic, shatterproof blocks 450 00:16:06,972 --> 00:16:08,806 which now tower thousands of 451 00:16:08,874 --> 00:16:11,642 feet into the air. 452 00:16:11,710 --> 00:16:13,611 >> Given that these are 453 00:16:13,645 --> 00:16:15,646 obviously very strong rocks, 454 00:16:15,714 --> 00:16:17,281 it puts the Whitney-Muir 455 00:16:17,349 --> 00:16:18,716 controversy in an interesting 456 00:16:18,784 --> 00:16:20,818 light, because Whitney wanted 457 00:16:20,886 --> 00:16:22,620 the rocks to have broken and for 458 00:16:22,721 --> 00:16:24,255 the valley to have fallen down 459 00:16:24,356 --> 00:16:26,457 in between a couple of major 460 00:16:26,558 --> 00:16:28,359 cracks. Muir wanted the whole 461 00:16:28,427 --> 00:16:30,461 thing to be carved by glaciers. 462 00:16:30,529 --> 00:16:31,462 And both of those seem really 463 00:16:31,530 --> 00:16:33,531 difficult, given how strong 464 00:16:33,599 --> 00:16:35,533 these rocks are, and yet behind 465 00:16:35,601 --> 00:16:36,934 me here is a 3,000-foot-deep 466 00:16:37,035 --> 00:16:39,637 valley. Something carved it. 467 00:16:46,178 --> 00:16:48,012 >> In the search to understand 468 00:16:48,113 --> 00:16:49,947 why Yosemite granite is so 469 00:16:50,015 --> 00:16:54,018 strong, scientists have found... 470 00:16:54,086 --> 00:16:56,220 large granite crystals welded 471 00:16:56,288 --> 00:16:57,855 together to form a tough, 472 00:16:57,923 --> 00:17:00,491 flawless rock, and the North 473 00:17:00,559 --> 00:17:02,260 America wall--evidence that 474 00:17:02,294 --> 00:17:03,928 Yosemite granite was reheated 475 00:17:03,996 --> 00:17:06,531 time after time, creating huge, 476 00:17:06,565 --> 00:17:09,300 faultless blocks. 477 00:17:09,401 --> 00:17:10,835 100 million years ago, 478 00:17:10,936 --> 00:17:12,904 Yosemite's granite lies buried 479 00:17:12,938 --> 00:17:14,539 beneath a volcanic mountain 480 00:17:14,573 --> 00:17:17,074 range two miles high. 481 00:17:17,109 --> 00:17:18,943 Rivers slice into this soft 482 00:17:19,011 --> 00:17:20,945 volcanic roof, gouging and 483 00:17:21,013 --> 00:17:22,847 washing it away. 484 00:17:22,915 --> 00:17:25,850 Then, 60 million years ago, when 485 00:17:25,918 --> 00:17:27,652 Dinosaurs are no more, the 486 00:17:27,719 --> 00:17:29,487 featureless lump of Yosemite 487 00:17:29,555 --> 00:17:31,389 granite is finally exposed to 488 00:17:31,490 --> 00:17:33,491 the elements. 489 00:17:33,559 --> 00:17:35,193 But Yosemite's ultra-tough 490 00:17:35,260 --> 00:17:37,295 granite defies attack. 491 00:17:37,396 --> 00:17:39,630 For another 50 million years, 492 00:17:39,665 --> 00:17:42,300 it remains unscathed. 493 00:17:42,367 --> 00:17:44,469 It would take a catastrophic 494 00:17:44,570 --> 00:17:47,472 event to chisel the 3,000-foot 495 00:17:47,573 --> 00:17:48,906 Canyon out of one of the 496 00:17:48,941 --> 00:17:51,556 toughest rocks on earth. 497 00:17:55,654 --> 00:17:57,021 >> Yosemite's Merced River 498 00:17:57,122 --> 00:18:00,925 meanders in a 3,000-foot canyon. 499 00:18:00,993 --> 00:18:03,928 But 250 million years ago, 500 00:18:03,996 --> 00:18:08,299 no vast canyon stood here. 501 00:18:08,367 --> 00:18:10,735 Yosemite is a flat coastal 502 00:18:10,802 --> 00:18:12,837 plain. It is blasted by 503 00:18:12,938 --> 00:18:14,939 volcanoes, and its granite is 504 00:18:15,007 --> 00:18:16,807 buried beneath two miles of 505 00:18:16,842 --> 00:18:19,277 volcanic rock. 506 00:18:19,378 --> 00:18:20,645 When the Yosemite granite is 507 00:18:20,746 --> 00:18:22,513 finally exposed, it is 508 00:18:22,648 --> 00:18:23,915 a shallow, run-of-the-mill 509 00:18:23,982 --> 00:18:25,516 river valley. 510 00:18:25,584 --> 00:18:27,618 For a staggering 50 million 511 00:18:27,719 --> 00:18:29,887 years, it defies the destructive 512 00:18:29,955 --> 00:18:32,256 powers of erosion. 513 00:18:32,324 --> 00:18:33,891 If scientists were going to 514 00:18:33,959 --> 00:18:35,159 solve the mystery of how 515 00:18:35,260 --> 00:18:36,961 Yosemite valley formed, they'd 516 00:18:37,062 --> 00:18:38,596 have to investigate the pivotal 517 00:18:38,630 --> 00:18:40,898 moment 7 million years ago when 518 00:18:40,966 --> 00:18:43,501 a 3,000-foot canyon was suddenly 519 00:18:43,535 --> 00:18:45,870 chiseled into the granite, one 520 00:18:45,971 --> 00:18:48,506 of the toughest rocks on earth. 521 00:18:48,607 --> 00:18:50,675 A clue to what almighty force 522 00:18:50,709 --> 00:18:52,610 overpowered the Yosemite granite 523 00:18:52,711 --> 00:18:54,211 lies high up on the exposed 524 00:18:54,246 --> 00:18:57,782 cliffs--strange, deep cracks 525 00:18:57,849 --> 00:18:59,317 running for hundreds of feet 526 00:18:59,351 --> 00:19:01,786 through the rock. 527 00:19:01,887 --> 00:19:03,120 >> Yosemite's granites are 528 00:19:03,155 --> 00:19:04,221 strong, but they're not always 529 00:19:04,256 --> 00:19:06,424 strong. I'm standing on a fin of 530 00:19:06,491 --> 00:19:08,693 rock between two deep fissures. 531 00:19:08,694 --> 00:19:10,328 These cracks run right across 532 00:19:10,429 --> 00:19:12,597 the Yosemite landscape, and they 533 00:19:12,664 --> 00:19:14,198 clearly formed after the 534 00:19:14,266 --> 00:19:15,733 granite formed. 535 00:19:15,734 --> 00:19:16,634 And if I look at their 536 00:19:16,668 --> 00:19:18,669 orientation... 537 00:19:18,770 --> 00:19:23,274 they all go to the northeast. 538 00:19:23,308 --> 00:19:25,209 >> Strangely, Yosemite valley is 539 00:19:25,277 --> 00:19:27,311 also oriented along the same 540 00:19:27,379 --> 00:19:28,946 northeast-southwesterly 541 00:19:29,014 --> 00:19:31,015 direction. 542 00:19:31,116 --> 00:19:32,717 Perhaps these cracks were the 543 00:19:32,751 --> 00:19:34,285 remnants of a cataclysmic 544 00:19:34,386 --> 00:19:35,853 rock-splitting event, as 545 00:19:35,921 --> 00:19:38,489 Josiah Whitney had predicted. 546 00:19:38,557 --> 00:19:40,458 A respected, Yale-educated 547 00:19:40,492 --> 00:19:41,759 scientist, he passionately 548 00:19:41,827 --> 00:19:44,095 believed titanic forces beneath 549 00:19:44,129 --> 00:19:45,830 Yosemite had pulled the land 550 00:19:45,931 --> 00:19:47,832 apart, causing it to collapse 551 00:19:47,933 --> 00:19:49,400 along gigantic fault-line 552 00:19:49,468 --> 00:19:51,669 cracks. 553 00:19:51,737 --> 00:19:53,204 Could it be that the argument 554 00:19:53,271 --> 00:19:54,672 was swinging in the bombastic 555 00:19:54,740 --> 00:19:56,641 Whitney's favor, and Muir's 556 00:19:56,675 --> 00:19:58,476 glacial theory was the rambling 557 00:19:58,543 --> 00:19:59,910 of an ignorant shepherd after 558 00:19:59,945 --> 00:20:02,680 all? Scientists searching for 559 00:20:02,714 --> 00:20:03,881 the answers as to how these 560 00:20:03,982 --> 00:20:06,517 giant cracks formed used modern 561 00:20:06,618 --> 00:20:08,085 technology to take a closer 562 00:20:08,153 --> 00:20:09,954 look at the ground beneath the 563 00:20:09,988 --> 00:20:11,689 Sierra Nevada. 564 00:20:11,723 --> 00:20:12,857 They did not find evidence of 565 00:20:12,891 --> 00:20:14,625 Whitney's cataclysmic rifting 566 00:20:14,726 --> 00:20:16,360 valley, but discovered 567 00:20:16,428 --> 00:20:18,529 a catastrophic event which had 568 00:20:18,597 --> 00:20:20,598 ramifications on a far greater 569 00:20:20,632 --> 00:20:22,667 scale. 570 00:20:22,734 --> 00:20:24,301 Seismic evidence has revealed 571 00:20:24,369 --> 00:20:25,870 that the earth's crust is made 572 00:20:25,937 --> 00:20:28,105 of layers. The lighter outer 573 00:20:28,140 --> 00:20:30,141 shell forms the land, but 574 00:20:30,208 --> 00:20:32,309 fastened beneath is a dense 575 00:20:32,411 --> 00:20:34,845 anchor of sturdy rock. 576 00:20:34,913 --> 00:20:36,414 And beneath the Sierra Nevada, 577 00:20:36,481 --> 00:20:38,049 scientists discovered something 578 00:20:38,116 --> 00:20:40,685 extraordinary--a huge section of 579 00:20:40,752 --> 00:20:43,554 this lower crust, 200 miles long 580 00:20:43,655 --> 00:20:47,291 and 40 miles wide, is missing. 581 00:20:47,325 --> 00:20:49,927 >> This model represents the 582 00:20:49,961 --> 00:20:51,762 Sierra Nevada as it looked ten 583 00:20:51,830 --> 00:20:52,830 million years ago. 584 00:20:52,831 --> 00:20:54,231 So the top here represents the 585 00:20:54,299 --> 00:20:55,666 mountain range. The bottom 586 00:20:55,767 --> 00:20:57,501 there, it represents the lower 587 00:20:57,569 --> 00:20:58,569 crust. 588 00:20:58,570 --> 00:21:00,037 Sometime in the past ten million 589 00:21:00,138 --> 00:21:02,373 years, part of that lower crust 590 00:21:02,407 --> 00:21:03,841 disconnected from the mountain 591 00:21:03,909 --> 00:21:07,411 range and dropped away. 592 00:21:07,479 --> 00:21:09,914 The end result is that there was 593 00:21:09,948 --> 00:21:11,282 uplift of the Sierra Nevada 594 00:21:11,316 --> 00:21:12,216 because they were being held 595 00:21:12,284 --> 00:21:14,118 down by those dense rocks. So 596 00:21:14,186 --> 00:21:15,286 there was uplift of the Sierra 597 00:21:15,320 --> 00:21:16,554 Nevada, but because most of the 598 00:21:16,588 --> 00:21:18,089 root fell away to the east, the 599 00:21:18,123 --> 00:21:19,557 whole mountain range, rather 600 00:21:19,591 --> 00:21:21,292 than bobbing straight up, tilted 601 00:21:21,359 --> 00:21:23,494 to the west. 602 00:21:23,562 --> 00:21:25,730 >> 7 million years ago, a huge 603 00:21:25,764 --> 00:21:27,298 chunk of the lower crust 604 00:21:27,399 --> 00:21:29,133 suddenly drops away. 605 00:21:29,201 --> 00:21:31,302 The entire mountain chain snaps 606 00:21:31,369 --> 00:21:32,770 along its spine and tilts 607 00:21:32,838 --> 00:21:35,773 upward. Finally, here is a force 608 00:21:35,841 --> 00:21:37,675 capable of overcoming Yosemite's 609 00:21:37,743 --> 00:21:42,113 ultra-tough granite. 610 00:21:42,214 --> 00:21:44,381 As it snaps, the enormous 611 00:21:44,483 --> 00:21:45,916 pressure cracks the solid 612 00:21:45,951 --> 00:21:47,852 granite along the entire length 613 00:21:47,953 --> 00:21:49,954 of the mountain range. 614 00:21:50,021 --> 00:21:51,555 But it was a mystery how these 615 00:21:51,656 --> 00:21:53,190 cracks could give rise to 616 00:21:53,225 --> 00:21:55,860 a 3,000-foot-deep canyon. 617 00:21:55,927 --> 00:21:58,262 Scientists realized some other 618 00:21:58,296 --> 00:21:59,930 force must have attacked the 619 00:22:00,031 --> 00:22:02,199 weakened, vulnerable granite. 620 00:22:02,300 --> 00:22:03,934 The hunt was on for an 621 00:22:04,002 --> 00:22:06,537 accomplice... 622 00:22:06,571 --> 00:22:08,205 and 5 miles downstream of 623 00:22:08,273 --> 00:22:10,641 Yosemite, at El Portal, they 624 00:22:10,675 --> 00:22:14,311 find it. 625 00:22:14,379 --> 00:22:18,482 Rapids. 626 00:22:18,550 --> 00:22:21,218 Here, Yosemite's meandering 627 00:22:21,286 --> 00:22:23,287 Merced River has transformed 628 00:22:23,355 --> 00:22:26,757 Into a raging torrent. 629 00:22:26,825 --> 00:22:29,894 At times, 1,000 cubic feet of 630 00:22:29,928 --> 00:22:31,228 water gush through this narrow 631 00:22:31,296 --> 00:22:34,298 gorge every second, creating 632 00:22:34,366 --> 00:22:36,667 treacherous waves and turbulent 633 00:22:36,735 --> 00:22:40,805 eddies. 634 00:22:40,839 --> 00:22:42,940 >> So this is the Merced River, 635 00:22:43,008 --> 00:22:44,542 about 5 miles downstream of 636 00:22:44,576 --> 00:22:45,843 Yosemite valley. 637 00:22:45,911 --> 00:22:47,845 It's extremely powerful. It's 638 00:22:47,913 --> 00:22:50,748 a series of rapids and cascades 639 00:22:50,849 --> 00:22:52,483 over these boulders, and there's 640 00:22:52,551 --> 00:22:54,285 a lot of energy being expended 641 00:22:54,352 --> 00:22:55,986 by this river right now. 642 00:22:56,021 --> 00:22:57,621 >> Scientists realized this 643 00:22:57,656 --> 00:22:59,723 ferocious force, combined with 644 00:22:59,758 --> 00:23:01,559 the rock-weakening cracks, even 645 00:23:01,626 --> 00:23:03,194 had the power to cut into 646 00:23:03,261 --> 00:23:04,829 Yosemite's granite. 647 00:23:04,896 --> 00:23:06,030 >> The erosion of the river is 648 00:23:06,097 --> 00:23:07,364 focused right along the river 649 00:23:07,465 --> 00:23:09,733 bed, and so it will cut down 650 00:23:09,835 --> 00:23:12,203 like a saw blade into the rock, 651 00:23:12,270 --> 00:23:13,838 about the width of the river. 652 00:23:13,905 --> 00:23:15,105 So as it does that, it will come 653 00:23:15,173 --> 00:23:16,841 down and steepen the valley 654 00:23:16,942 --> 00:23:19,276 walls. Those walls will become 655 00:23:19,344 --> 00:23:21,378 unstable, and there will be 656 00:23:21,446 --> 00:23:22,646 landslides into the river. 657 00:23:22,747 --> 00:23:23,647 The river will wash away the 658 00:23:23,715 --> 00:23:25,649 material, and you'll be back to 659 00:23:25,750 --> 00:23:27,384 that "V" shape. 660 00:23:27,452 --> 00:23:29,186 >> Scientists realized, if the 661 00:23:29,287 --> 00:23:30,988 Merced River created this deep, 662 00:23:31,022 --> 00:23:33,290 V-shaped canyon, then it could 663 00:23:33,358 --> 00:23:35,426 also have cut a deep Yosemite 664 00:23:35,460 --> 00:23:37,995 Valley. 665 00:23:43,468 --> 00:23:45,369 7 million years ago, as the 666 00:23:45,470 --> 00:23:47,571 Sierra Nevada tilts upwards, the 667 00:23:47,639 --> 00:23:49,707 mountain slope gets 3 times 668 00:23:49,741 --> 00:23:51,642 steeper, and the western-flowing 669 00:23:51,710 --> 00:23:53,177 Merced River surges with 670 00:23:53,278 --> 00:23:55,246 a torrent of water. 671 00:23:55,280 --> 00:23:57,381 Like a saw blade, it zigzags 672 00:23:57,449 --> 00:23:59,183 along the path of weakened, 673 00:23:59,284 --> 00:24:01,252 cracked granite. 674 00:24:01,286 --> 00:24:03,087 In less than 5 million years, 675 00:24:03,154 --> 00:24:05,723 it cuts a 3,000-foot, v-shaped 676 00:24:05,824 --> 00:24:07,625 canyon running straight through 677 00:24:07,726 --> 00:24:10,995 the heart of Yosemite. 678 00:24:11,062 --> 00:24:13,097 Scientists investigating how 679 00:24:13,198 --> 00:24:14,899 Yosemite's deep canyon formed 680 00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:17,101 have discovered... 681 00:24:17,168 --> 00:24:20,004 strange cracks in the rock-- 682 00:24:20,105 --> 00:24:21,805 proof that the up-lifting Sierra 683 00:24:21,840 --> 00:24:24,742 Nevada weakened the granite... 684 00:24:24,809 --> 00:24:27,378 and rapids downstream--evidence 685 00:24:27,445 --> 00:24:28,646 that the Merced River cut a 686 00:24:28,713 --> 00:24:31,982 deep, V-shaped Yosemite canyon. 687 00:24:32,017 --> 00:24:33,550 But one part of the riddle 688 00:24:33,618 --> 00:24:36,887 remained unsolved... 689 00:24:36,922 --> 00:24:39,290 Yosemite's unique, box-like 690 00:24:39,357 --> 00:24:41,892 shape. 691 00:24:41,927 --> 00:24:44,328 Some other extraordinary force 692 00:24:44,362 --> 00:24:45,996 had caused the canyon walls to 693 00:24:46,097 --> 00:24:47,998 collapse and the valley floor 694 00:24:48,099 --> 00:24:49,600 to flatten. 695 00:24:49,634 --> 00:24:51,368 The controversy about how this 696 00:24:51,436 --> 00:24:54,785 strange canyon formed raged on. 697 00:24:58,673 --> 00:25:00,608 >> Yosemite has had a turbulent 698 00:25:00,675 --> 00:25:04,044 past. 200 million years ago, its 699 00:25:04,145 --> 00:25:06,580 coastal plain is shattered by 700 00:25:06,648 --> 00:25:09,650 volcanoes. And then, 7 million 701 00:25:09,751 --> 00:25:11,552 years ago, the Merced River 702 00:25:11,653 --> 00:25:13,254 suddenly carves a deep, 703 00:25:13,288 --> 00:25:15,656 V-shaped Yosemite valley. 704 00:25:15,724 --> 00:25:17,524 For the next 4 million years, 705 00:25:17,559 --> 00:25:19,627 the river runs in this narrow 706 00:25:19,661 --> 00:25:23,297 canyon. But then, Yosemite is 707 00:25:23,365 --> 00:25:27,735 radically transformed again. 708 00:25:27,802 --> 00:25:29,336 >> About two and a half million 709 00:25:29,371 --> 00:25:30,871 years ago, when our ancestors 710 00:25:30,972 --> 00:25:32,206 Were beginning to evolve in 711 00:25:32,274 --> 00:25:34,842 Africa, the v-shaped valley that 712 00:25:34,843 --> 00:25:36,911 was here began to evolve into 713 00:25:36,978 --> 00:25:38,812 the present valley floor, which 714 00:25:38,914 --> 00:25:40,881 Is flat, and is bounded by these 715 00:25:40,882 --> 00:25:42,516 vertical, sheer rock walls 716 00:25:42,550 --> 00:25:44,018 on its side. 717 00:25:44,085 --> 00:25:45,653 >> It was during this second 718 00:25:45,720 --> 00:25:47,354 extraordinary stage of cliff 719 00:25:47,455 --> 00:25:49,189 formation that the most iconic 720 00:25:49,291 --> 00:25:51,158 rock in America formed-- 721 00:25:51,192 --> 00:25:53,928 Half Dome. 722 00:25:53,995 --> 00:25:55,696 This natural wonder's unique 723 00:25:55,730 --> 00:25:57,431 shape has intrigued people for 724 00:25:57,465 --> 00:25:59,266 centuries. 725 00:25:59,367 --> 00:26:01,735 Its enormous granite dome is 726 00:26:01,803 --> 00:26:03,904 over 3 billion cubic feet in 727 00:26:04,005 --> 00:26:07,174 size, as large as 1,000 football 728 00:26:07,242 --> 00:26:09,543 stadiums, and its striking 729 00:26:09,644 --> 00:26:12,179 northwest face is a 2,000-foot 730 00:26:12,280 --> 00:26:15,549 vertical drop. 731 00:26:15,617 --> 00:26:18,719 In 1870, amateur geologist John 732 00:26:18,820 --> 00:26:20,521 Muir had a radical theory about 733 00:26:20,555 --> 00:26:22,523 how Half Dome and Yosemite's 734 00:26:22,557 --> 00:26:24,892 other vast cliffs formed. 735 00:26:24,993 --> 00:26:26,460 He believed that thousands of 736 00:26:26,528 --> 00:26:27,695 years ago, the earth's 737 00:26:27,729 --> 00:26:29,196 temperature had plummeted and 738 00:26:29,264 --> 00:26:30,331 the valley had been filled with 739 00:26:30,398 --> 00:26:32,199 ice. 740 00:26:32,200 --> 00:26:33,233 >> You know, one thing that's 741 00:26:33,301 --> 00:26:34,435 important to keep in mind about 742 00:26:34,502 --> 00:26:36,971 John Muir, he didn't come up 743 00:26:36,972 --> 00:26:38,839 with this idea overnight. He was 744 00:26:38,873 --> 00:26:40,574 trekking, hiking, walking, going 745 00:26:40,608 --> 00:26:41,709 up to the tops of mountains. And 746 00:26:41,776 --> 00:26:42,943 the entire time he was doing 747 00:26:42,978 --> 00:26:44,311 this, he was listening, he was 748 00:26:44,346 --> 00:26:45,412 seeing, he was feeling, he was 749 00:26:45,513 --> 00:26:47,247 touching. And so he was slowly, 750 00:26:47,315 --> 00:26:49,583 letter by letter, word by word, 751 00:26:49,684 --> 00:26:51,318 learning the language of 752 00:26:51,386 --> 00:26:54,221 Yosemite. 753 00:26:54,322 --> 00:26:56,056 >> Muir knew from research in 754 00:26:56,124 --> 00:26:57,691 the european Alps that glaciers 755 00:26:57,792 --> 00:26:59,159 were capable of gouging out 756 00:26:59,227 --> 00:27:01,128 solid rock. 757 00:27:01,229 --> 00:27:02,763 As these great rivers of ice 758 00:27:02,864 --> 00:27:04,698 flow downhill, they press down 759 00:27:04,766 --> 00:27:06,133 on the canyon walls with a 760 00:27:06,201 --> 00:27:08,569 weight equal to 200 trucks per 761 00:27:08,603 --> 00:27:11,305 square yard, ripping out chunks 762 00:27:11,339 --> 00:27:13,307 of rock and causing the valley 763 00:27:13,341 --> 00:27:15,976 walls to get steeper. 764 00:27:16,044 --> 00:27:17,745 >> In general, glaciers 765 00:27:17,779 --> 00:27:20,047 transform a v-shaped valley that 766 00:27:20,115 --> 00:27:21,315 we see as characteristic of a 767 00:27:21,416 --> 00:27:23,784 river into a u-shaped valley 768 00:27:23,852 --> 00:27:26,286 by focusing their erosion on the 769 00:27:26,321 --> 00:27:28,389 valley walls, rather than on the 770 00:27:28,423 --> 00:27:30,858 valley bottom, until it has 771 00:27:30,925 --> 00:27:32,626 reached this "u" shape, at which 772 00:27:32,694 --> 00:27:34,762 point it can then continue to 773 00:27:34,829 --> 00:27:36,964 erode as that "u" shape. 774 00:27:37,032 --> 00:27:38,599 >> Muir knew that as a glacier 775 00:27:38,666 --> 00:27:40,467 flows, it grinds and polishes 776 00:27:40,502 --> 00:27:42,669 the bedrock with rough shards 777 00:27:42,737 --> 00:27:45,305 of rock lodged at its base. 778 00:27:45,373 --> 00:27:47,207 As they melt and disappear, 779 00:27:47,242 --> 00:27:49,576 glaciers leave behind u-shaped 780 00:27:49,644 --> 00:27:51,979 valleys and distinctiv 781 00:27:52,013 --> 00:27:56,183 scratch marks. 782 00:27:56,284 --> 00:27:58,185 Muir proposed that giant rivers 783 00:27:58,253 --> 00:28:00,187 of ice also once flowed through 784 00:28:00,288 --> 00:28:02,456 Yosemite valley. 785 00:28:02,557 --> 00:28:04,191 He hunted high and low for 786 00:28:04,259 --> 00:28:05,826 evidence of glacial scratch 787 00:28:05,927 --> 00:28:07,661 marks and eventually found a 788 00:28:07,729 --> 00:28:10,197 small, 20-foot square patch of 789 00:28:10,265 --> 00:28:12,332 rock 30 feet from the valley 790 00:28:12,367 --> 00:28:14,368 floor. 791 00:28:14,469 --> 00:28:16,336 >> The granite has scratches on 792 00:28:16,371 --> 00:28:18,439 its surface. Each one of these 793 00:28:18,473 --> 00:28:20,340 scratches is associated with 794 00:28:20,375 --> 00:28:22,009 a rock embedded in the sole 795 00:28:22,110 --> 00:28:24,978 of a glacier. I can imagine Muir 796 00:28:25,013 --> 00:28:27,514 claiming that this is 797 00:28:27,549 --> 00:28:29,083 irrefutable evidence of glacial 798 00:28:29,184 --> 00:28:31,251 occupation of the valley floor. 799 00:28:31,286 --> 00:28:32,820 >> But if glaciers ploughed down 800 00:28:32,921 --> 00:28:34,488 the valley, why weren't there 801 00:28:34,556 --> 00:28:36,090 millions of scratch marks on 802 00:28:36,157 --> 00:28:38,158 the cliffs? 803 00:28:38,193 --> 00:28:40,894 If Muir was correct, this is 804 00:28:40,995 --> 00:28:43,730 a picture of what happened. 805 00:28:43,798 --> 00:28:45,199 Two and a half million years 806 00:28:45,266 --> 00:28:47,634 ago, the temperature plummets. 807 00:28:47,702 --> 00:28:49,803 Yosemite valley fills to the 808 00:28:49,904 --> 00:28:52,639 brim with a gigantic glacier. 809 00:28:52,740 --> 00:28:54,541 Only the tallest mountains peek 810 00:28:54,642 --> 00:28:57,244 above the sea of ice. 811 00:28:57,278 --> 00:28:58,712 For thousands of years, the 812 00:28:58,813 --> 00:29:00,347 glacier grinds away at the 813 00:29:00,381 --> 00:29:02,449 granite walls, scratching the 814 00:29:02,517 --> 00:29:04,151 cliffs and undercutting a peak 815 00:29:04,185 --> 00:29:06,153 that will become Half Dome. 816 00:29:06,187 --> 00:29:08,188 When it retreats, the glacier 817 00:29:08,256 --> 00:29:09,990 leaves precarious slabs of 818 00:29:10,058 --> 00:29:12,159 overhanging rock. 819 00:29:12,193 --> 00:29:13,527 The unstable rock face crashes 820 00:29:13,628 --> 00:29:19,633 to the valley floor... 821 00:29:19,734 --> 00:29:22,102 cleaving the great northwest 822 00:29:22,170 --> 00:29:25,706 face of Half Dome. 823 00:29:25,740 --> 00:29:27,341 In the same way, subsequent 824 00:29:27,375 --> 00:29:29,009 smaller glaciers cut away at 825 00:29:29,077 --> 00:29:30,444 the base of the valley for two 826 00:29:30,545 --> 00:29:34,281 million years, cleaving sheer, 827 00:29:34,315 --> 00:29:36,250 vertical cliffs and removing all 828 00:29:36,284 --> 00:29:39,720 traces of glacial scratch marks. 829 00:29:39,787 --> 00:29:41,421 But there was still one 830 00:29:41,456 --> 00:29:43,457 glaringly obvious problem with 831 00:29:43,525 --> 00:29:45,726 Muir's theory, and arch enemy 832 00:29:45,793 --> 00:29:47,261 geologist Josiah Whitney 833 00:29:47,328 --> 00:29:49,163 pounced on it. 834 00:29:49,230 --> 00:29:50,898 If glaciers had carved the 835 00:29:50,965 --> 00:29:53,367 valley, why was Yosemite 836 00:29:53,434 --> 00:29:56,069 uniquely box-shaped and not 837 00:29:56,137 --> 00:29:57,704 U-shaped, like a classic 838 00:29:57,805 --> 00:29:59,907 glacial valley? 839 00:29:59,974 --> 00:30:01,909 Whitney attacked Muir's theory 840 00:30:01,976 --> 00:30:03,443 and stubbornly declared this 841 00:30:03,511 --> 00:30:05,245 square, flat-bottomed valley 842 00:30:05,280 --> 00:30:07,347 could only have formed if the 843 00:30:07,415 --> 00:30:10,350 bottom had fallen out. 844 00:30:10,418 --> 00:30:12,619 >> Whitney hypothesized that 845 00:30:12,720 --> 00:30:14,988 instead of being carved by 846 00:30:15,056 --> 00:30:16,223 glaciers that this was a 847 00:30:16,257 --> 00:30:18,358 fault-bounded valley with the 848 00:30:18,426 --> 00:30:20,327 valley walls being faults down 849 00:30:20,361 --> 00:30:23,163 which the block in between the 850 00:30:23,264 --> 00:30:27,634 valley walls has dropped. 851 00:30:27,702 --> 00:30:29,403 In Whitney's theory, the flat 852 00:30:29,437 --> 00:30:30,871 valley floor would be the top 853 00:30:30,905 --> 00:30:34,341 of the down-dropped block. 854 00:30:34,409 --> 00:30:36,343 >> Iin the quest to unravel the 855 00:30:36,444 --> 00:30:37,711 mystery of Yosemite's 856 00:30:37,812 --> 00:30:39,980 flat-bottomed canyon, scientists 857 00:30:40,048 --> 00:30:41,615 are investigating the valley 858 00:30:41,683 --> 00:30:44,785 floor. 859 00:30:44,886 --> 00:30:46,720 >> The kind of sediment that I 860 00:30:46,788 --> 00:30:49,156 see in this cut bank are coarse 861 00:30:49,224 --> 00:30:51,325 grains, pebbles, and sand--the 862 00:30:51,359 --> 00:30:53,126 same kind of rocks and sediment 863 00:30:53,161 --> 00:30:54,895 that the present stream can 864 00:30:54,963 --> 00:30:58,065 carry. In contrast to that, the 865 00:30:58,166 --> 00:31:03,403 deposit I see at my feet... 866 00:31:03,438 --> 00:31:05,539 is very fine-grained. 867 00:31:05,607 --> 00:31:07,808 >> Light, fine grained sediment 868 00:31:07,875 --> 00:31:09,776 like this is easily carried by 869 00:31:09,811 --> 00:31:12,145 flowing water. But when a river 870 00:31:12,247 --> 00:31:14,147 hits a body of still water, its 871 00:31:14,215 --> 00:31:16,049 energy levels slump, and it 872 00:31:16,084 --> 00:31:17,985 dumps its load. 873 00:31:18,052 --> 00:31:19,253 >> This the kind of sediment 874 00:31:19,354 --> 00:31:20,854 that we would expect to see on 875 00:31:20,888 --> 00:31:23,156 the floor of a lake. 876 00:31:23,224 --> 00:31:24,791 >> Further research has found 877 00:31:24,892 --> 00:31:26,693 similar strange sediments all 878 00:31:26,761 --> 00:31:28,528 over Yosemite. 879 00:31:28,596 --> 00:31:31,064 It's proof that 10,000 years 880 00:31:31,165 --> 00:31:33,133 ago, an ancient lake drowned 881 00:31:33,167 --> 00:31:35,769 this entire valley. 882 00:31:35,803 --> 00:31:36,770 Starting at the head of the 883 00:31:36,804 --> 00:31:39,072 canyon, it stretched for 5 miles 884 00:31:39,140 --> 00:31:41,408 through the landscape. 885 00:31:41,442 --> 00:31:43,043 But it was a mystery how Lake 886 00:31:43,077 --> 00:31:45,245 Yosemite had formed. 887 00:31:45,346 --> 00:31:46,980 Scientists scoured the valley 888 00:31:47,048 --> 00:31:48,849 looking for answers, and near 889 00:31:48,883 --> 00:31:50,784 the base of El Capitan at the 890 00:31:50,852 --> 00:31:52,519 farthest end of the valley, 891 00:31:52,620 --> 00:31:53,854 they stumbled upon an 892 00:31:53,888 --> 00:31:56,156 insignificant-looking ridge. 893 00:31:56,224 --> 00:31:58,525 It's an important clue to how 894 00:31:58,593 --> 00:32:00,160 Lake Yosemite and the valley 895 00:32:00,228 --> 00:32:03,497 formed. This mound is made of an 896 00:32:03,531 --> 00:32:05,499 unusual collection of rocks, 897 00:32:05,600 --> 00:32:07,668 And it runs from one side of 898 00:32:07,702 --> 00:32:11,238 the valley to the other. 899 00:32:11,306 --> 00:32:13,674 >> Given this arc of a ridge is 900 00:32:13,708 --> 00:32:15,976 just down from El Cap, one might 901 00:32:16,044 --> 00:32:17,110 expect that it could have been 902 00:32:17,145 --> 00:32:18,679 caused from a rock fall. 903 00:32:18,780 --> 00:32:22,983 But if you look around... 904 00:32:23,051 --> 00:32:25,585 that's not the case. Clearly, 905 00:32:25,620 --> 00:32:27,321 even in this local area, we have 906 00:32:27,388 --> 00:32:29,056 rocks that came from at least 907 00:32:29,123 --> 00:32:31,325 3 different places, no doubt, up 908 00:32:31,426 --> 00:32:33,060 the valley. This pink rock came 909 00:32:33,127 --> 00:32:34,594 from one portion of the valley, 910 00:32:34,696 --> 00:32:36,863 this gray granite came from 911 00:32:36,964 --> 00:32:38,765 another place. And this 912 00:32:38,866 --> 00:32:41,335 particular one, we can see the 913 00:32:41,402 --> 00:32:44,504 distinctive feldspars associated 914 00:32:44,605 --> 00:32:45,672 with the cathedral peaks 915 00:32:45,707 --> 00:32:47,407 granite. 916 00:32:47,475 --> 00:32:49,343 >> This strange distribution of 917 00:32:49,410 --> 00:32:51,311 rocks means that the ridge could 918 00:32:51,412 --> 00:32:52,612 not have formed from a 919 00:32:52,680 --> 00:32:54,781 catastrophic rock fall. 920 00:32:54,849 --> 00:32:57,317 Something else just as epic 921 00:32:57,385 --> 00:32:59,753 must have created it. 922 00:32:59,787 --> 00:33:02,956 This is a glacial moraine, the 923 00:33:03,057 --> 00:33:04,858 remnants of a glacier which once 924 00:33:04,926 --> 00:33:06,927 filled the valley. It's the 925 00:33:06,961 --> 00:33:08,595 conclusive evidence Muir had 926 00:33:08,663 --> 00:33:10,764 hoped for. 927 00:33:10,832 --> 00:33:13,500 Moraines form as glacial ice 928 00:33:13,601 --> 00:33:15,335 rips fragments of rock from the 929 00:33:15,403 --> 00:33:17,304 valley walls, carries them like 930 00:33:17,338 --> 00:33:18,972 a conveyor belt several miles 931 00:33:19,040 --> 00:33:21,241 downstream, and dumps the rubble 932 00:33:21,309 --> 00:33:23,944 at the mouth of the glacier. 933 00:33:24,011 --> 00:33:26,880 Scientists realized this ridge 934 00:33:26,948 --> 00:33:29,149 was also key to solving the 935 00:33:29,217 --> 00:33:31,284 mystery of how Lake Yosemite and 936 00:33:31,319 --> 00:33:33,120 the flat-bottomed valley floor 937 00:33:33,221 --> 00:33:34,955 formed. 938 00:33:35,056 --> 00:33:37,591 It wasn't just a moraine, it was 939 00:33:37,658 --> 00:33:40,394 a giant dam. 940 00:33:45,032 --> 00:33:46,500 It's two and a half million 941 00:33:46,567 --> 00:33:49,035 years ago, and glaciers grind 942 00:33:49,103 --> 00:33:51,772 through the valley. 10,000 years 943 00:33:51,873 --> 00:33:53,507 ago, the temperature rises and 944 00:33:53,574 --> 00:33:55,041 the glacier retreats. 945 00:33:55,109 --> 00:33:57,043 A huge moraine is dumped at the 946 00:33:57,145 --> 00:33:59,146 valley mouth, damming back the 947 00:33:59,213 --> 00:34:00,781 icy melt water. 948 00:34:00,848 --> 00:34:02,582 The entire valley floods, 949 00:34:02,650 --> 00:34:04,851 creating an enormous Lake 950 00:34:04,919 --> 00:34:06,420 Yosemite. 951 00:34:06,487 --> 00:34:08,755 Mountain streams spill into this 952 00:34:08,856 --> 00:34:10,657 still water and dump ton after 953 00:34:10,691 --> 00:34:13,293 ton of fine sediment. 954 00:34:13,327 --> 00:34:15,095 The lake chokes with silt, 955 00:34:15,163 --> 00:34:17,731 creating Yosemite's distinctive 956 00:34:17,832 --> 00:34:20,167 flat-bottomed valley floor. 957 00:34:20,201 --> 00:34:22,102 >> We know from seismic evidence 958 00:34:22,203 --> 00:34:23,970 collected in the 1930s that it's 959 00:34:24,005 --> 00:34:25,972 2,000 feet thick. That's enough 960 00:34:26,007 --> 00:34:27,607 sediment to cover New York City 961 00:34:27,642 --> 00:34:30,377 by a foot. 962 00:34:30,445 --> 00:34:32,279 >> And beneath this lake of 963 00:34:32,346 --> 00:34:33,747 sediment, they found the 964 00:34:33,815 --> 00:34:35,715 evidence that had always eluded 965 00:34:35,817 --> 00:34:38,618 Muir--a u-shaped basin, the 966 00:34:38,653 --> 00:34:40,821 hallmark of a classic glacial 967 00:34:40,888 --> 00:34:43,623 valley. It was indisputable 968 00:34:43,691 --> 00:34:45,559 evidence that Muir's intuitive 969 00:34:45,626 --> 00:34:47,260 Observations and seemingly 970 00:34:47,361 --> 00:34:48,962 far-fetched theory were 971 00:34:48,996 --> 00:34:51,898 correct, and the final nail in 972 00:34:51,999 --> 00:34:53,533 the coffin for Whitney's theory 973 00:34:53,634 --> 00:34:57,637 of a cataclysmic rifting valley. 974 00:34:57,705 --> 00:34:59,372 Scientists trying to understand 975 00:34:59,440 --> 00:35:00,807 how the steep cliffs and 976 00:35:00,908 --> 00:35:02,342 flat-bottomed valley formed 977 00:35:02,376 --> 00:35:04,544 have found... 978 00:35:04,645 --> 00:35:06,446 scratch marks--evidence that the 979 00:35:06,514 --> 00:35:07,781 sheer cliffs were carved by 980 00:35:07,815 --> 00:35:09,883 glaciers, 981 00:35:09,917 --> 00:35:11,785 and a glacial moraine--proof 982 00:35:11,819 --> 00:35:13,420 that an ancient Lake Yosemite 983 00:35:13,521 --> 00:35:14,788 filled with sediment and 984 00:35:14,856 --> 00:35:18,158 created the flat valley floor. 985 00:35:18,226 --> 00:35:19,926 For over two million years, 986 00:35:19,961 --> 00:35:21,428 the glaciers whittle away at 987 00:35:21,496 --> 00:35:24,865 Yosemite. Then 10,000 years ago, 988 00:35:24,966 --> 00:35:26,867 the glaciers retreat for good, 989 00:35:26,934 --> 00:35:28,502 Leaving the one-mile-wide 990 00:35:28,569 --> 00:35:30,871 Canyon we know today. 991 00:35:30,972 --> 00:35:32,672 But strange, dangerous forces 992 00:35:32,773 --> 00:35:34,508 are still exerting their power 993 00:35:34,609 --> 00:35:36,409 on Yosemite's landscape, with 994 00:35:36,477 --> 00:35:38,946 catastrophic consequences. 995 00:35:47,972 --> 00:35:49,172 >> Yosemite valley has been 996 00:35:49,240 --> 00:35:51,174 sculpted by torrential water and 997 00:35:51,242 --> 00:35:53,944 thick slabs of ice, but today 998 00:35:53,978 --> 00:35:55,979 another hidden force is shaping 999 00:35:56,080 --> 00:35:58,515 this magnificent landscape. 1000 00:35:58,616 --> 00:36:00,884 [loud rumbling] 1001 00:36:00,952 --> 00:36:05,622 It's 6:52 pm, July 10, 1996. 1002 00:36:05,690 --> 00:36:07,124 Yosemite is hit by 1003 00:36:07,158 --> 00:36:11,161 a catastrophic rock fall. 1004 00:36:11,262 --> 00:36:14,030 Within minutes, a huge dust 1005 00:36:14,065 --> 00:36:16,433 cloud of pulverized rock engulfs 1006 00:36:16,501 --> 00:36:19,236 the valley. News spreads that 1007 00:36:19,337 --> 00:36:21,304 Happy isles, the busiest trail 1008 00:36:21,339 --> 00:36:22,806 In the valley, has been 1009 00:36:22,874 --> 00:36:25,609 decimated. Yosemite is in 1010 00:36:25,710 --> 00:36:27,878 a state of emergency. 1011 00:36:27,879 --> 00:36:29,946 >> When I got here, the 1012 00:36:29,981 --> 00:36:32,516 devastation was really in full 1013 00:36:32,583 --> 00:36:35,252 force. I saw trees that were 1014 00:36:35,253 --> 00:36:36,686 just everywhere. There were 1015 00:36:36,754 --> 00:36:39,523 ambulances, and chaos just was 1016 00:36:39,624 --> 00:36:40,757 everywhere. People were running 1017 00:36:40,792 --> 00:36:42,325 around screaming, and the whole 1018 00:36:42,427 --> 00:36:44,261 area looked like a bomb had 1019 00:36:44,328 --> 00:36:45,796 gone off. 1020 00:36:45,897 --> 00:36:47,697 >> 80,000 tons of rock had 1021 00:36:47,799 --> 00:36:49,499 suddenly dislodged from the 1022 00:36:49,534 --> 00:36:51,067 cliff face. 1023 00:36:51,169 --> 00:36:52,936 >> The weight of 1,600 trucks 1024 00:36:52,970 --> 00:36:56,072 basically fell down. It hit and 1025 00:36:56,140 --> 00:36:58,842 then exploded, and it created 1026 00:36:58,876 --> 00:37:00,043 a windblast. 1027 00:37:00,144 --> 00:37:01,511 >> As strong as a tornado, 1028 00:37:01,579 --> 00:37:03,480 the wind blast uprooted trees a 1029 00:37:03,514 --> 00:37:05,482 half-mile away from the impact 1030 00:37:05,516 --> 00:37:06,850 zone. 1031 00:37:06,884 --> 00:37:08,685 >> We can have about 3,000 1032 00:37:08,786 --> 00:37:11,254 people go up and down that trail 1033 00:37:11,322 --> 00:37:14,224 in one day, and so we did not 1034 00:37:14,325 --> 00:37:15,759 know how many people were 1035 00:37:15,793 --> 00:37:17,961 trapped under the trees. And, 1036 00:37:18,062 --> 00:37:20,063 tragically, a young man was 1037 00:37:20,164 --> 00:37:22,466 pinned by a tree and was killed, 1038 00:37:22,533 --> 00:37:24,234 and a young woman was trapped 1039 00:37:24,268 --> 00:37:28,872 under a tree and is paralyzed. 1040 00:37:28,906 --> 00:37:31,441 >> A deadly, mysterious force is 1041 00:37:31,509 --> 00:37:33,910 continually at work in Yosemite, 1042 00:37:33,978 --> 00:37:35,345 causing the surface layers of 1043 00:37:35,446 --> 00:37:37,247 the ultra-tough Yosemite granite 1044 00:37:37,281 --> 00:37:40,550 to peel away in huge chunks. 1045 00:37:40,618 --> 00:37:42,452 One large rock fall occurs every 1046 00:37:42,553 --> 00:37:44,888 week in the park, and yet up to 1047 00:37:44,989 --> 00:37:47,257 4 million people visit Yosemite 1048 00:37:47,358 --> 00:37:49,159 each year, getting perilously 1049 00:37:49,260 --> 00:37:50,594 close to these potentially 1050 00:37:50,628 --> 00:37:53,797 unstable cliffs. 1051 00:37:53,865 --> 00:37:55,999 To discover what's causing 1052 00:37:56,067 --> 00:37:57,734 Yosemite's incredibly tough 1053 00:37:57,802 --> 00:37:59,436 granite to fall down, 1054 00:37:59,537 --> 00:38:00,904 researchers have dotted 1055 00:38:00,972 --> 00:38:02,372 vibration sensors and 1056 00:38:02,440 --> 00:38:04,007 solar-powered seismic stations 1057 00:38:04,075 --> 00:38:05,942 all over Yosemite's cliffs, 1058 00:38:05,977 --> 00:38:07,811 enabling them to listen to the 1059 00:38:07,912 --> 00:38:09,346 rocks. 1060 00:38:09,413 --> 00:38:11,181 >> This computer allows me to 1061 00:38:11,249 --> 00:38:12,549 see what's going on all the 1062 00:38:12,617 --> 00:38:13,984 time. 1063 00:38:13,985 --> 00:38:16,419 For example, if I throw this 1064 00:38:16,454 --> 00:38:22,425 rock at the cliff over there... 1065 00:38:22,426 --> 00:38:24,427 I just created a mini-rock fall, 1066 00:38:24,462 --> 00:38:26,363 and take a look. And these 1067 00:38:26,430 --> 00:38:27,531 spikes are the rock hitting the 1068 00:38:27,632 --> 00:38:28,999 cliff and then tumbling down. 1069 00:38:29,066 --> 00:38:30,267 This is a mini rock fall that 1070 00:38:30,334 --> 00:38:31,635 happened right here. 1071 00:38:31,702 --> 00:38:32,636 So the station will pick up 1072 00:38:32,703 --> 00:38:33,603 rock falls that happen that are 1073 00:38:33,638 --> 00:38:34,971 small right here, but it'll pick 1074 00:38:35,072 --> 00:38:37,774 up larger ones in other places. 1075 00:38:37,808 --> 00:38:39,442 >> This seismic listening device 1076 00:38:39,544 --> 00:38:41,311 has pinpointed a recent rock 1077 00:38:41,345 --> 00:38:43,780 fall behind Half Dome. 1078 00:38:43,814 --> 00:38:45,982 It's a chance for Valerie Zimmer 1079 00:38:46,083 --> 00:38:48,151 to investigate why Yosemite's 1080 00:38:48,185 --> 00:38:50,887 rocks are falling down, and all 1081 00:38:50,988 --> 00:38:52,789 the evidence indicates another 1082 00:38:52,857 --> 00:38:58,528 cataclysmic event has occurred. 1083 00:38:58,596 --> 00:39:02,699 >> Oh, look at this. 1084 00:39:02,767 --> 00:39:03,900 All these trees have been 1085 00:39:03,968 --> 00:39:04,801 knocked over like they're 1086 00:39:04,869 --> 00:39:05,969 toothpicks. 1087 00:39:06,037 --> 00:39:07,871 These rocks range from the size 1088 00:39:07,905 --> 00:39:10,407 of a house to just dust. 1089 00:39:10,441 --> 00:39:12,309 >> Analysis of the seismic data 1090 00:39:12,410 --> 00:39:14,144 shows this was a massive rock 1091 00:39:14,211 --> 00:39:16,012 fall, one of the biggest in the 1092 00:39:16,047 --> 00:39:18,582 last 20 years. It shook the 1093 00:39:18,649 --> 00:39:20,116 ground so hard, it was the 1094 00:39:20,184 --> 00:39:22,319 equivalent of a magnitude 2.4 1095 00:39:22,386 --> 00:39:24,220 earthquake. 1096 00:39:24,322 --> 00:39:25,855 >> If you look up on that 1097 00:39:25,923 --> 00:39:27,090 mountain, the amount of rocks 1098 00:39:27,124 --> 00:39:28,291 that came down, you know, you 1099 00:39:28,326 --> 00:39:29,326 look up high, it doesn't look 1100 00:39:29,393 --> 00:39:30,727 like a big area, but it's 1101 00:39:30,761 --> 00:39:32,862 deceivingly large. It's probably 1102 00:39:32,930 --> 00:39:35,298 the size of maybe 40 houses 1103 00:39:35,399 --> 00:39:37,100 all together. 1104 00:39:37,134 --> 00:39:39,235 >> Strangely, immediately above 1105 00:39:39,303 --> 00:39:41,037 the scarred rock face, a new 1106 00:39:41,138 --> 00:39:43,673 dome is forming. 1107 00:39:47,845 --> 00:39:50,213 Mysterious domes are forming all 1108 00:39:50,314 --> 00:39:52,115 over the valley, the most 1109 00:39:52,216 --> 00:39:54,584 famous--Half Dome. 1110 00:39:54,652 --> 00:39:56,453 Glaciers cleaved its vertical 1111 00:39:56,554 --> 00:39:58,855 face, but its domed top has been 1112 00:39:58,956 --> 00:40:01,291 shrouded in mystery. 1113 00:40:01,392 --> 00:40:03,193 A strange underlying force is 1114 00:40:03,227 --> 00:40:04,928 sculpting these peaks into 1115 00:40:05,029 --> 00:40:07,197 domes, causing the rocks to 1116 00:40:07,298 --> 00:40:09,899 tumble down. 1117 00:40:13,471 --> 00:40:15,438 North of Yosemite, on the dome 1118 00:40:15,506 --> 00:40:17,340 at Olmstead Point, it's possible 1119 00:40:17,375 --> 00:40:18,608 to get close enough to 1120 00:40:18,643 --> 00:40:20,243 investigate why the surface 1121 00:40:20,277 --> 00:40:21,511 layers of granite are 1122 00:40:21,545 --> 00:40:22,979 shattering. 1123 00:40:23,080 --> 00:40:24,280 >> These domes are all over the 1124 00:40:24,348 --> 00:40:26,282 place. You see these layers 1125 00:40:26,350 --> 00:40:28,351 running parallel to the surface. 1126 00:40:28,452 --> 00:40:29,719 They're almost like the layers 1127 00:40:29,820 --> 00:40:32,155 on an onion, and the layers are 1128 00:40:32,189 --> 00:40:33,456 starting to peel off. In fact, 1129 00:40:33,524 --> 00:40:34,457 look right here. This one is 1130 00:40:34,525 --> 00:40:35,959 coming apart. 1131 00:40:35,993 --> 00:40:37,727 >> The outer surface of the rock 1132 00:40:37,795 --> 00:40:39,629 has fractured into layers, 1133 00:40:39,730 --> 00:40:41,064 running over the summit and down 1134 00:40:41,098 --> 00:40:45,602 the sides of the dome. 1135 00:40:45,636 --> 00:40:47,537 >> These are weaknesses in the 1136 00:40:47,605 --> 00:40:50,540 rock. It's obvious that there 1137 00:40:50,608 --> 00:40:52,809 must be some sort of force 1138 00:40:52,877 --> 00:40:54,411 that's causing the rock to break 1139 00:40:54,445 --> 00:40:56,913 in this way and peel apart 1140 00:40:56,981 --> 00:40:58,815 like an onion. 1141 00:40:58,883 --> 00:41:00,450 >> The only force capable of 1142 00:41:00,518 --> 00:41:01,985 fracturing the ultra-tough 1143 00:41:02,053 --> 00:41:03,820 Yosemite granite like this 1144 00:41:03,888 --> 00:41:05,522 originates deep within the 1145 00:41:05,623 --> 00:41:08,792 Earth. 1146 00:41:08,893 --> 00:41:10,994 100 million years ago, the 1147 00:41:11,062 --> 00:41:12,629 Yosemite granite is beginning 1148 00:41:12,697 --> 00:41:15,331 to form. Submerged beneath two 1149 00:41:15,366 --> 00:41:17,634 miles of volcanic rock, it's 1150 00:41:17,702 --> 00:41:19,703 squashed and squeezed from every 1151 00:41:19,770 --> 00:41:21,171 direction. 1152 00:41:21,272 --> 00:41:22,605 Over the next 40 million years, 1153 00:41:22,707 --> 00:41:25,709 the volcanic roof erodes away. 1154 00:41:25,776 --> 00:41:27,544 The immense downward pressure is 1155 00:41:27,611 --> 00:41:29,813 removed, leaving these titanic 1156 00:41:29,880 --> 00:41:31,948 forces out of balance. 1157 00:41:31,982 --> 00:41:33,349 The surface of the exposed 1158 00:41:33,417 --> 00:41:34,984 Yosemite granite is now an 1159 00:41:35,052 --> 00:41:36,419 avenue through which this 1160 00:41:36,520 --> 00:41:37,887 pent-up pressure can be 1161 00:41:37,988 --> 00:41:40,423 released. 1162 00:41:43,894 --> 00:41:45,061 >> The granite is still being 1163 00:41:45,162 --> 00:41:46,162 squeezed from the sides and from 1164 00:41:46,230 --> 00:41:47,764 the bottom, but at the surface 1165 00:41:47,798 --> 00:41:49,065 it's free to move. 1166 00:41:49,166 --> 00:41:50,433 What happens is these layers 1167 00:41:50,501 --> 00:41:52,402 start to open up parallel to 1168 00:41:52,436 --> 00:41:53,503 the surface. 1169 00:41:53,537 --> 00:41:54,671 >> The release of this ancient 1170 00:41:54,705 --> 00:41:56,172 pressure causes the surface of 1171 00:41:56,240 --> 00:41:57,807 the granite to fracture into 1172 00:41:57,875 --> 00:41:59,976 onion layers, which then peel 1173 00:42:00,077 --> 00:42:01,311 away. 1174 00:42:01,345 --> 00:42:02,445 >> And so, when the tops of 1175 00:42:02,513 --> 00:42:03,780 those mountains fall off, you're 1176 00:42:03,881 --> 00:42:04,981 left with rounded domes. 1177 00:42:05,082 --> 00:42:06,983 >> But it's not just the granite 1178 00:42:07,051 --> 00:42:08,518 peaks that are affected. 1179 00:42:08,619 --> 00:42:11,321 It's the cliffs, too. 1180 00:42:11,355 --> 00:42:12,622 >> These layers are also formed 1181 00:42:12,690 --> 00:42:13,990 if the ground surface is 1182 00:42:14,058 --> 00:42:15,792 vertical like a cliff, creating 1183 00:42:15,860 --> 00:42:17,894 vertical fractures alongside the 1184 00:42:17,962 --> 00:42:19,696 cliff. These vertical fractures 1185 00:42:19,764 --> 00:42:21,397 allow the rock to then slide out 1186 00:42:21,432 --> 00:42:24,167 and create rock falls, and this 1187 00:42:24,235 --> 00:42:25,502 is one of the major contributing 1188 00:42:25,536 --> 00:42:26,503 factors to rock falls 1189 00:42:26,604 --> 00:42:28,037 in Yosemite. 1190 00:42:28,072 --> 00:42:29,506 >> Yosemite's catastrophic rock 1191 00:42:29,607 --> 00:42:31,241 falls are the legacy of its 1192 00:42:31,308 --> 00:42:32,976 prehistoric birth beneath the 1193 00:42:33,043 --> 00:42:35,879 Earth, 100 million years ago. 1194 00:42:35,980 --> 00:42:38,214 The gradual release of this 1195 00:42:38,249 --> 00:42:39,949 ancient, pent-up pressure has 1196 00:42:39,984 --> 00:42:42,051 created an untamed and dynamic 1197 00:42:42,119 --> 00:42:44,220 landscape. 1198 00:42:44,255 --> 00:42:45,488 >> Rock fall is a natural 1199 00:42:45,523 --> 00:42:47,323 process and is part of the 1200 00:42:47,424 --> 00:42:49,325 ongoing evolution of Yosemite 1201 00:42:49,393 --> 00:42:51,427 National Park. I always get 1202 00:42:51,495 --> 00:42:53,396 a little bit tickled when people 1203 00:42:53,430 --> 00:42:55,665 ask me questions like, "what are 1204 00:42:55,699 --> 00:42:56,499 You going to do to prevent 1205 00:42:56,600 --> 00:42:58,067 future rock falls?" 1206 00:42:58,135 --> 00:42:59,402 It's a constant reminder that 1207 00:42:59,470 --> 00:43:01,471 this is a wild place and that 1208 00:43:01,539 --> 00:43:03,273 there's nothing we can do or 1209 00:43:03,307 --> 00:43:06,209 should do to tame it in any way, 1210 00:43:06,277 --> 00:43:07,677 shape, or form. But it's 1211 00:43:07,745 --> 00:43:09,445 something that, after I'm long 1212 00:43:09,480 --> 00:43:12,348 gone, will continue to happen. 1213 00:43:12,383 --> 00:43:15,018 >> For the last 150 years, 1214 00:43:15,119 --> 00:43:16,486 scientists have been figuring 1215 00:43:16,554 --> 00:43:18,555 out how this magnificent valley 1216 00:43:18,622 --> 00:43:19,923 formed. 1217 00:43:19,990 --> 00:43:21,658 They found... 1218 00:43:21,725 --> 00:43:23,726 volcanic rocks--proof that the 1219 00:43:23,761 --> 00:43:25,361 molten granite cooled deep 1220 00:43:25,396 --> 00:43:27,363 beneath the earth; 1221 00:43:27,398 --> 00:43:29,666 karge crystals--evidence that 1222 00:43:29,733 --> 00:43:31,534 Yosemite granite cooled slowly, 1223 00:43:31,569 --> 00:43:34,838 creating tough, faultless rock; 1224 00:43:34,939 --> 00:43:37,207 Rapids downstream show that 1225 00:43:37,274 --> 00:43:38,942 the Merced River cut a deep, 1226 00:43:39,009 --> 00:43:41,477 V-shaped canyon; 1227 00:43:41,545 --> 00:43:43,746 And rocks carried by a glacier-- 1228 00:43:43,814 --> 00:43:45,582 conclusive evidence that ice 1229 00:43:45,649 --> 00:43:47,750 carved Yosemite's steep cliffs 1230 00:43:47,818 --> 00:43:51,621 and flattened its valley floor. 1231 00:43:54,725 --> 00:43:57,727 Yosemite, a valley of giants, 1232 00:43:57,828 --> 00:44:00,363 is a geological masterpiece. 1233 00:44:00,364 --> 00:44:02,198 The unique strength of its 1234 00:44:02,266 --> 00:44:04,000 near-perfect granite has created 1235 00:44:04,034 --> 00:44:05,735 some of the most imposing and 1236 00:44:05,803 --> 00:44:07,704 iconic landscapes on planet 1237 00:44:07,738 --> 00:44:10,573 Earth, one where the deep earth 1238 00:44:10,641 --> 00:44:12,208 forces that created it are 1239 00:44:12,276 --> 00:44:14,377 continuing to shape its future, 1240 00:44:14,478 --> 00:44:17,814 Living proof that the earth is 1241 00:44:17,848 --> 00:44:20,150 never at rest. 1242 00:44:20,184 --> 00:44:25,284 -- Sync, corrected by elderman -- -- for MY-SUBS.com --- 77875

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