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1
00:39:33,900 --> 00:39:35,740
And thin!
And if you look here...
2
00:39:53,900 --> 00:39:55,380
No. No?
3
00:39:50,220 --> 00:39:53,900
So not specific tartan
for specific clans?
4
00:39:48,620 --> 00:39:50,220
Not at that period.
5
00:39:45,180 --> 00:39:48,620
And presumably, each group,
each clan, has its own...
6
00:39:42,540 --> 00:39:45,180
That's a twill weave,
because it's hardwearing.
7
00:39:39,460 --> 00:39:42,540
Same as denim, for jeans.
Very, very strong.
8
00:39:37,860 --> 00:39:39,460
It's windproof.
Yeah, it's really solid!
9
00:39:35,740 --> 00:39:37,860
It's thin, but it's waterproof.
10
00:39:55,380 --> 00:39:58,780
You had regional styles of it,
like dialect or architecture.
11
00:39:32,380 --> 00:39:33,900
It's really harsh?
Really harsh, yep.
12
00:39:29,100 --> 00:39:32,380
this is probably
first-half 18th-century.
13
00:39:25,580 --> 00:39:29,100
Yeah, so we've got a piece here,
it's an old plaid,
14
00:39:23,220 --> 00:39:25,580
Have you got any pieces
that are particularly early?
15
00:39:21,580 --> 00:39:23,220
Not Scottish dress at that period.
16
00:39:18,980 --> 00:39:21,580
So this is Highland dress,
not Scottish dress?
17
00:39:15,060 --> 00:39:18,980
noted for their customs,
their manners and their dress.
18
00:39:12,740 --> 00:39:15,060
These are soldiers overseas,
19
00:40:27,020 --> 00:40:28,660
That's bright.
20
00:40:54,900 --> 00:40:57,660
from wearing Highland dress.
21
00:40:49,900 --> 00:40:54,900
So when their uprising failed
in 1746, highland men were outlawed
22
00:40:44,940 --> 00:40:49,900
wore tartan to symbolise their stand
against the British Crown.
23
00:40:42,460 --> 00:40:44,940
Bonnie Prince Charlie
and his Jacobite supporters
24
00:40:37,060 --> 00:40:42,460
that he gave to a Jacobite heroine
called Colonel Anne MacKintosh.
25
00:40:34,500 --> 00:40:37,060
It's part of a plaid
that belonged to him
26
00:40:31,340 --> 00:40:34,500
It's a piece that he actually held.
27
00:40:28,660 --> 00:40:31,340
That's particularly associated
with Bonnie Prince Charlie.
28
00:39:10,140 --> 00:39:12,740
And here we have a number
of Highlanders.
29
00:40:23,340 --> 00:40:27,020
So here's a piece, beautiful piece
of the very bright red tartan.
30
00:40:21,100 --> 00:40:23,340
made from exotic insects.
31
00:40:17,180 --> 00:40:21,100
Only the wealthy could afford
the imported red cochineal dye,
32
00:40:14,620 --> 00:40:17,180
because they wouldn't
have been able to afford it.
33
00:40:12,300 --> 00:40:14,620
The poor would not
have been wearing bright red,
34
00:40:07,860 --> 00:40:12,300
their quality and colours revealed
much about their wearers.
35
00:40:04,300 --> 00:40:07,860
But while they weren't linked
to clans or families,
36
00:39:59,980 --> 00:40:04,300
There's evidence of around 100
different tartans from this time.
37
00:37:39,860 --> 00:37:43,500
They get through nearly two miles
of this fabric every week.
38
00:38:01,700 --> 00:38:03,940
If it's our coat, yes, you will!
39
00:38:00,140 --> 00:38:01,700
running about with it on?
40
00:37:57,500 --> 00:38:00,140
Even in the Highlands of Scotland,
you wouldn't find a farmer
41
00:37:55,060 --> 00:37:57,500
Won't find that anywhere else?
Won't find it anywhere else.
42
00:37:52,420 --> 00:37:55,060
Ancient tartan?
Exclusive to our brand.
43
00:37:49,940 --> 00:37:52,420
Yes, there is, it's called
the ancient tartan.
44
00:37:47,460 --> 00:37:49,940
I recognise that.
Is there a name for that?
45
00:37:43,500 --> 00:37:47,460
And it's only used
for this range of jackets.
46
00:38:04,980 --> 00:38:06,980
But not on his kilt?
No.
47
00:37:34,940 --> 00:37:38,180
back, sleeves and pockets.
48
00:37:30,380 --> 00:37:34,940
Altogether, there are 12 pieces of
lining that fit into the front,
49
00:37:25,820 --> 00:37:29,060
The bottom pockets are lined
with soft cotton tartan.
50
00:37:23,980 --> 00:37:25,820
for the first time.
51
00:37:21,540 --> 00:37:23,980
This is where we attach
the tartan to the jacket,
52
00:37:19,700 --> 00:37:21,540
This is the front of your coat.
Yeah?
53
00:37:18,060 --> 00:37:19,700
Go on, what happens here?
54
00:37:14,860 --> 00:37:18,060
This, I really want to show you.
55
00:38:42,980 --> 00:38:48,140
The oldest surviving piece
dates from around 230 AD.
56
00:39:08,340 --> 00:39:10,140
Wearing full highland dress.
57
00:39:06,820 --> 00:39:08,340
1680.
58
00:39:03,540 --> 00:39:06,820
A lovely image of Lord Mungo Murray.
59
00:39:00,900 --> 00:39:03,540
that we start to see
depictions of tartan.
60
00:38:58,620 --> 00:39:00,900
But it's perhaps
100 years later after that
61
00:38:54,580 --> 00:38:58,620
I think probably the earliest
reference we have is from 1538.
62
00:38:51,740 --> 00:38:54,580
as tartan expert
Peter McDonald explains.
63
00:38:48,140 --> 00:38:51,740
But the next history milestone
isn't for over 1,000 years,
64
00:40:57,660 --> 00:41:00,700
Highland dress was
associated with riot,
65
00:38:38,740 --> 00:38:42,980
We do at least know tartan
was here nearly 2,000 years ago.
66
00:38:33,460 --> 00:38:38,740
It makes them sound as if they've
been around since time immemorial.
67
00:38:30,420 --> 00:38:33,460
And a Fraser.
68
00:38:27,620 --> 00:38:30,420
This is a McDonald's, for example.
69
00:38:24,660 --> 00:38:27,620
And many of them carry family names.
70
00:38:21,500 --> 00:38:24,660
There are thousands
of tartans around these days.
71
00:38:14,900 --> 00:38:18,580
Ruth is in Edinburgh
to trace its chequered history.
72
00:38:06,980 --> 00:38:10,900
It might be called ancient,
but just how old is tartan?
73
00:43:18,420 --> 00:43:19,860
Right.
74
00:43:42,420 --> 00:43:44,460
Clamped together.
75
00:43:38,340 --> 00:43:42,420
Both separate, come in,
down the machine...
76
00:43:35,340 --> 00:43:38,340
Top one? Top one.
Bottom one? Bottom one.
77
00:43:32,660 --> 00:43:35,340
and fastens them both together.
78
00:43:30,140 --> 00:43:32,660
the other one comes on top,
the clamp comes down,
79
00:43:27,820 --> 00:43:30,140
They come down the channel,
one goes underneath,
80
00:43:24,540 --> 00:43:27,820
Got your underneath stud
and your top stud.
81
00:43:19,860 --> 00:43:24,540
They get through more than 18,000
of these brass poppers a day.
82
00:43:44,460 --> 00:43:47,540
Now I just need a pocket to work on.
83
00:43:13,740 --> 00:43:15,020
Stand back!
Stand back!
84
00:43:11,740 --> 00:43:13,740
That's a job you can try, yeah!
85
00:43:10,420 --> 00:43:11,740
Is that a job I can do?
86
00:43:07,060 --> 00:43:10,420
Now they need press studs
to fasten them.
87
00:43:04,740 --> 00:43:07,060
The front square pockets
are nearly finished.
88
00:43:02,820 --> 00:43:04,740
along the production line.
89
00:42:58,460 --> 00:43:02,820
Our green wax cotton and tartan
lined jacket is making progress
90
00:42:49,100 --> 00:42:52,820
Orangey, definitely, orangey.
91
00:44:08,620 --> 00:44:11,100
You can feel the power of it.
92
00:44:35,820 --> 00:44:37,580
Right, I get it.
93
00:44:25,780 --> 00:44:30,140
Now our studded pocket is sewn
onto the front of the jacket.
94
00:44:24,260 --> 00:44:25,780
You can.
95
00:44:22,300 --> 00:44:24,260
I'm really proud of that,
can I have another one?
96
00:44:17,940 --> 00:44:18,980
Yes!
97
00:44:14,100 --> 00:44:15,740
Yeah.
Taut on the thing.
98
00:44:12,460 --> 00:44:14,100
Lie it flat down on the...
99
00:44:11,100 --> 00:44:12,460
Right.
100
00:42:44,300 --> 00:42:47,820
Find one I like, claim it as me own.
101
00:44:07,340 --> 00:44:08,620
Oh!
102
00:44:01,500 --> 00:44:05,540
A light helps me place the studs
perfectly in position.
103
00:43:58,180 --> 00:44:01,500
You wouldn't let me work here,
would you? No!
104
00:43:54,820 --> 00:43:58,180
Right, hold them,
don't get in the way!
105
00:43:52,980 --> 00:43:54,820
Well, don't hide them!
106
00:43:51,340 --> 00:43:52,980
There. Oh!
107
00:43:49,380 --> 00:43:51,340
Where? Stop.
108
00:43:47,540 --> 00:43:49,380
There's the pockets there.
109
00:41:28,700 --> 00:41:32,020
The king wore this fantastic outfit.
110
00:41:54,740 --> 00:41:56,500
as to what they should wear.
111
00:41:52,500 --> 00:41:54,740
There were instructions
that went out to people
112
00:41:49,260 --> 00:41:52,500
into the unofficial
uniform of all Scots.
113
00:41:46,020 --> 00:41:49,260
And in doing so, he turned
this traditional Highland dress
114
00:41:43,980 --> 00:41:46,020
as well as England.
115
00:41:40,540 --> 00:41:43,980
George IV chose to wear tartan
to show that he was King of Scotland
116
00:41:36,140 --> 00:41:38,700
under his kilt
to protect his modesty.
117
00:41:32,020 --> 00:41:36,140
Jacket, kilt, hose and it's said
that he wore flesh coloured tights
118
00:41:56,500 --> 00:41:58,380
And particularly,
they were urged to turn up
119
00:41:24,900 --> 00:41:28,700
the first monarch to come
to Scotland for 150 years.
120
00:41:21,620 --> 00:41:24,900
This was where George IV
landed in 1822,
121
00:41:19,620 --> 00:41:21,620
I've brought you down
to Leith Harbour.
122
00:41:13,740 --> 00:41:19,620
Its eventual revival was ironically
thanks to another British king.
123
00:41:08,060 --> 00:41:12,460
The ban lasted nearly 40 years
and tartan almost disappeared.
124
00:41:05,380 --> 00:41:08,060
in a rebel group?
Absolutely.
125
00:41:02,620 --> 00:41:05,380
So it's a way of sort of stamping
out what had become almost a uniform
126
00:41:00,700 --> 00:41:02,620
rebellion, violence?
Correct.
127
00:42:15,460 --> 00:42:18,740
your whatever it was,
it was sort of largely
128
00:42:40,460 --> 00:42:44,300
I thought I'd do what they did
in the early 19th century.
129
00:42:36,580 --> 00:42:40,460
With absolutely no family
tradition of any tartan,
130
00:42:31,580 --> 00:42:33,740
Absolutely is.
And it all started here.
131
00:42:30,260 --> 00:42:31,580
of the 19th century?
132
00:42:25,980 --> 00:42:30,260
So the whole clan tartan idea
is an idea born in the beginning
133
00:42:23,780 --> 00:42:25,980
and clan symbology if you like.
134
00:42:20,380 --> 00:42:23,780
This was perhaps the event
that crystallised Scottish identity
135
00:42:18,740 --> 00:42:20,380
"That one, please!"
136
00:37:13,220 --> 00:37:14,860
Where are we going out?
137
00:42:12,420 --> 00:42:15,460
So your Gordon tartan,
your MacLeod tartan,
138
00:42:10,380 --> 00:42:12,420
and people would just
select what they liked.
139
00:42:07,380 --> 00:42:10,380
The weavers by that time had quite
a large pattern book collection
140
00:42:05,820 --> 00:42:07,380
"Help, what am I meant to wear?"
141
00:42:04,100 --> 00:42:05,820
They would go off
to a weaver and say,
142
00:42:02,060 --> 00:42:04,100
because there had never
been such a thing.
143
00:42:00,100 --> 00:42:02,060
But many of them had
no idea what that was,
144
00:41:58,380 --> 00:42:00,100
in their true clan tartan.
145
00:32:24,780 --> 00:32:28,380
To keep you completely dry,
it needs to withstand at least
146
00:32:42,460 --> 00:32:46,340
This fabric is so resistant
to water, it's burst open
147
00:32:38,380 --> 00:32:39,380
POPPING SOUND
148
00:32:37,380 --> 00:32:38,380
20 psi...
149
00:32:35,860 --> 00:32:37,380
So at 17, what we're up to now.
150
00:32:33,940 --> 00:32:35,860
OK, wow!
151
00:32:32,300 --> 00:32:33,940
We've got to 15 already, look.
152
00:32:30,620 --> 00:32:32,300
It looks like it wants to pop.
153
00:32:28,380 --> 00:32:30,620
ten psi of pressure.
154
00:32:46,340 --> 00:32:48,740
before any liquid
has leaked through.
155
00:32:21,700 --> 00:32:24,780
My goodness, and this is up to 3.8.
156
00:32:14,220 --> 00:32:17,260
So, absolutely no water
is coming through.
157
00:32:09,780 --> 00:32:10,980
Absolutely, yes.
158
00:32:07,740 --> 00:32:09,780
that I would recognise
from a waterproof jacket.
159
00:32:04,860 --> 00:32:07,740
So this feels very much
like the kind of material
160
00:32:03,460 --> 00:32:04,860
So we've got one here.
161
00:32:01,620 --> 00:32:03,460
It should do a lot better.
162
00:31:59,380 --> 00:32:01,620
What about a waterproof fabric?
How does that do?
163
00:33:11,300 --> 00:33:12,740
at the top there.
164
00:33:35,860 --> 00:33:37,900
All right, Mark, make it rain.
165
00:33:31,380 --> 00:33:35,860
the simplest way to create
a barrier against the rain.
166
00:33:28,740 --> 00:33:31,380
which blocks holes
in the weave of the fabric,
167
00:33:24,780 --> 00:33:28,740
This bright orange jacket is
coated in a thin layer of plastic,
168
00:33:22,660 --> 00:33:24,780
All right, saddle up.
169
00:33:17,180 --> 00:33:19,700
It's been customised!
170
00:33:15,420 --> 00:33:17,180
pointed at a particular angle?
171
00:33:12,740 --> 00:33:15,420
A modified nozzle, is
the modified nozzle a garden hose
172
00:31:55,700 --> 00:31:59,380
It's fine for a drizzle,
but not for a downpour.
173
00:33:09,060 --> 00:33:11,300
The rain's going to come
from the modified nozzle
174
00:33:07,380 --> 00:33:09,060
This is where we make rain.
175
00:33:05,420 --> 00:33:07,380
hi-tech rain room.
176
00:33:03,180 --> 00:33:05,420
Mark's going to demonstrate
the problem in his...
177
00:32:58,940 --> 00:33:03,180
But even if your coat is waterproof,
it can still let you down.
178
00:32:54,420 --> 00:32:55,580
Yeah.
179
00:32:52,220 --> 00:32:54,420
you're going to be pretty safe
in that jacket?
180
00:32:48,740 --> 00:32:52,220
OK, so unless you're standing
under Niagara Falls,
181
00:30:30,300 --> 00:30:32,860
From fishermen to farmers,
182
00:30:55,820 --> 00:30:58,660
I'm at the University of Leeds.
183
00:30:52,940 --> 00:30:55,820
To get to grips with
the science of staying dry,
184
00:30:49,700 --> 00:30:51,540
And what is breathability?
185
00:30:46,980 --> 00:30:49,700
water resistant and shower proof.
186
00:30:44,220 --> 00:30:46,980
I want to know what the difference
is between waterproof,
187
00:30:41,460 --> 00:30:44,220
But not all raincoats are equal.
188
00:30:35,300 --> 00:30:40,180
we all rely on waterproof gear
when the heavens open.
189
00:30:32,860 --> 00:30:35,300
from hikers to hipsters,
190
00:30:58,660 --> 00:31:00,100
Hi, Mark, lovely to meet you.
191
00:30:21,700 --> 00:30:25,140
and a surprising amount
of science behind them.
192
00:30:19,260 --> 00:30:21,700
There's a wide range
of fabrics out there,
193
00:30:17,460 --> 00:30:19,260
the Great British weather.
194
00:30:15,180 --> 00:30:17,460
Of course, wax isn't
the only way to keep out
195
00:30:10,740 --> 00:30:13,140
There you go!
And it gives you it back.
196
00:30:08,700 --> 00:30:10,740
God, it's the lightest
of touches, isn't it?
197
00:30:07,060 --> 00:30:08,700
pieces in place.
198
00:30:03,220 --> 00:30:07,060
to cut a slit in our waxed cloth
and stitch all the hand warmer
199
00:31:27,820 --> 00:31:31,180
using this hydro-static head tester,
200
00:31:53,460 --> 00:31:55,700
rated shower proof.
201
00:31:48,860 --> 00:31:53,460
This low psi or pounds per square
inch means this fabric is only
202
00:31:45,020 --> 00:31:47,820
And we've got to a pressure
of 0.4 psi.
203
00:31:42,180 --> 00:31:45,020
which means your jacket
will keep you drier.
204
00:31:39,700 --> 00:31:42,180
Higher pressure equals
greater water resistance,
205
00:31:37,460 --> 00:31:39,700
Oh, wow, look at that, yes.
206
00:31:34,740 --> 00:31:37,460
And if you can see, there's water
coming through already.
207
00:31:31,180 --> 00:31:34,740
which forces pressurised
water against it.
208
00:33:43,580 --> 00:33:45,420
Got in my shoe!
209
00:31:24,660 --> 00:31:27,820
We are going to test
this fabric's water resistance
210
00:31:22,460 --> 00:31:24,660
Yeah, it's incredibly light,
isn't it?
211
00:31:18,540 --> 00:31:22,460
So it would make a very nice
light shower proof running top.
212
00:31:15,900 --> 00:31:18,540
So, what we've got here
is a shower proof fabric.
213
00:31:13,100 --> 00:31:14,900
can vary between jackets.
214
00:31:09,980 --> 00:31:13,100
First, he wants to show me
how wildly water resistance
215
00:31:05,140 --> 00:31:09,980
Dr Mark Taylor is a world expert
in performance clothing.
216
00:31:00,100 --> 00:31:02,500
Hi, Cherry, welcome to Leeds.
Thank you.
217
00:35:49,820 --> 00:35:53,580
the technology, I'm much
less baffled by breathability.
218
00:36:22,980 --> 00:36:25,100
And this is where you're going
to see your jacket made
219
00:36:20,940 --> 00:36:22,980
Yep, this is your production line.
220
00:36:19,700 --> 00:36:20,940
This looks busy.
221
00:36:14,500 --> 00:36:15,540
into a coat.
222
00:36:11,420 --> 00:36:14,500
The parts we've prepped have come
through to be stitched together
223
00:36:05,980 --> 00:36:09,300
And now, we're moving onto
the main production line.
224
00:36:02,940 --> 00:36:04,460
of making our jacket.
225
00:35:58,820 --> 00:36:02,940
Back in the factory, we're almost
24 hours into the process
226
00:36:25,100 --> 00:36:26,580
from start to finish.
227
00:35:47,180 --> 00:35:49,820
Now that I understand
the terminology behind
228
00:35:43,980 --> 00:35:47,180
strangely, you need
a jacket covered in holes.
229
00:35:41,460 --> 00:35:43,980
To weather the weather,
while staying comfortable,
230
00:35:39,780 --> 00:35:41,460
There you have it.
231
00:35:34,700 --> 00:35:37,500
And it is leaving the jacket.
Yeah.
232
00:35:32,140 --> 00:35:34,700
The sweat from my body
is evaporating.
233
00:35:29,620 --> 00:35:32,140
I'm hiking, I'm walking my dog,
I'm riding my bike.
234
00:35:27,340 --> 00:35:29,620
So I'm jumping around,
I'm doing star jumps,
235
00:36:49,500 --> 00:36:52,100
and finished handwarmers.
236
00:37:09,780 --> 00:37:13,220
each adding their own pieces
to our jacket shaped puzzle.
237
00:37:05,300 --> 00:37:09,780
From here, this panel passes
through the hands of 20 machinists,
238
00:37:01,620 --> 00:37:03,300
That's your hand warmer. Yay!
239
00:36:59,820 --> 00:37:01,620
And here's me moleskin pocket.
240
00:36:58,180 --> 00:36:59,820
This is my stand.
That's your stand.
241
00:36:55,740 --> 00:36:58,180
That's my bit there, right?
It is, yeah.
242
00:36:54,340 --> 00:36:55,740
I see.
243
00:36:52,100 --> 00:36:54,340
Can I? Yeah.
244
00:35:24,140 --> 00:35:27,340
Oh, look!
There we go.
245
00:36:46,420 --> 00:36:49,500
Meaning we now have a front panel
with a stand
246
00:36:42,940 --> 00:36:46,420
The flaps are going onto
the pockets I sewed.
247
00:36:40,100 --> 00:36:42,940
There's a bit precision
engineering gone in there!
248
00:36:38,260 --> 00:36:40,100
That's the bit I made!
249
00:36:36,660 --> 00:36:38,260
I'm helping to make.
250
00:36:32,100 --> 00:36:36,660
Today on this line,
they'll sew 162 jackets like the one
251
00:36:30,660 --> 00:36:32,100
Yes.
252
00:36:26,580 --> 00:36:30,660
So each one of these machinists
represents another bit of a jacket?
253
00:34:09,580 --> 00:34:13,860
Which is where breathability
comes into it.
254
00:34:32,740 --> 00:34:34,460
it becomes water vapour.
255
00:34:30,700 --> 00:34:32,740
So when the sweat
evaporates off your skin,
256
00:34:28,460 --> 00:34:30,700
also allow your sweat out?
257
00:34:25,020 --> 00:34:28,460
So how on earth can a garment
that protects you from the rain
258
00:34:23,380 --> 00:34:25,020
of their own.
259
00:34:19,340 --> 00:34:23,380
Today, nearly every outdoor clothing
manufacturer has a similar fabric
260
00:34:16,900 --> 00:34:19,340
in 1976.
261
00:34:13,860 --> 00:34:16,900
Gore-Tex were the first to market
waterproof, breathable fabrics
262
00:34:34,460 --> 00:34:36,420
So this is water
in its gaseous form.
263
00:34:06,580 --> 00:34:09,580
In fact, you're an even more gross
type of wet.
264
00:34:05,340 --> 00:34:06,580
You don't stay dry.
265
00:34:03,260 --> 00:34:05,340
Yeah, that's the sweat
that's coming off you.
266
00:34:00,660 --> 00:34:03,260
I feel very clammy.
And hot.
267
00:33:58,740 --> 00:34:00,660
I'm quite damp on the inside.
268
00:33:55,900 --> 00:33:57,180
Or out.
269
00:33:52,340 --> 00:33:54,940
means not a single drop
has made it in.
270
00:33:48,660 --> 00:33:52,340
Whatever I put it through,
its impervious PVC layer
271
00:35:03,260 --> 00:35:06,860
So, if we imagine this coffee
is the human body and the steam
272
00:35:22,940 --> 00:35:24,140
A steam patch.
273
00:35:21,100 --> 00:35:22,940
And the mirror should
hopefully show us...
274
00:35:18,500 --> 00:35:21,100
or steam comes through.
Clever!
275
00:35:15,620 --> 00:35:18,500
And then we can use this mirror
to see if any moisture vapour
276
00:35:14,100 --> 00:35:15,620
Place it on top.
277
00:35:11,940 --> 00:35:14,100
That's breathable.
That's it.
278
00:35:09,740 --> 00:35:11,940
So that is my waterproof jacket?
Yeah.
279
00:35:06,860 --> 00:35:09,740
that's coming off the hot coffee
is our evaporating sweat.
280
00:44:37,580 --> 00:44:39,980
There's my hand warmer.
281
00:35:00,780 --> 00:35:03,260
Mark is going to show me
how they work.
282
00:34:56,700 --> 00:35:00,780
less than half the diameter
of a human hair.
283
00:34:51,860 --> 00:34:56,700
Most waterproof, breathable fabrics
are peppered with holes
284
00:34:47,980 --> 00:34:51,860
then water can't go through one way
but it can come out the other.
285
00:34:43,900 --> 00:34:47,980
the water molecules but
much smaller than the raindrops,
286
00:34:41,380 --> 00:34:43,900
So if we have holes there
a little bit bigger than
287
00:34:39,620 --> 00:34:41,380
Raindrops are very big.
288
00:34:36,420 --> 00:34:39,620
So it's individual molecules
and they're very small. Yeah.
289
00:53:33,820 --> 00:53:35,540
Oh, yeah!
290
00:53:51,220 --> 00:53:53,020
and I'll come back
and I'll have a few for you.
291
00:53:48,980 --> 00:53:51,220
You're putting me off.
Go and get a cup of tea
292
00:53:47,420 --> 00:53:48,980
Really?
293
00:53:45,140 --> 00:53:47,420
Half a minute.
30 seconds.
294
00:53:42,660 --> 00:53:45,140
So how long should it take someone
to do what I just did?
295
00:53:41,420 --> 00:53:42,660
Bit slow.
296
00:53:39,820 --> 00:53:41,420
How do you think I'm doing?
297
00:53:35,540 --> 00:53:37,100
Stud away!
298
00:53:53,020 --> 00:53:54,660
I'm going home in a minute, love.
299
00:53:32,140 --> 00:53:33,820
So once, that's it...
300
00:53:29,580 --> 00:53:32,140
Same as I did the pockets?
Yes.
301
00:53:27,620 --> 00:53:29,580
Straight onto the yellow
chalk marks.
302
00:53:24,180 --> 00:53:27,620
Stud, stud the back
and then stud that one.
303
00:53:21,660 --> 00:53:24,180
We'll start with the collar.
304
00:53:18,180 --> 00:53:21,660
And by now, I should have my eye in.
305
00:53:15,420 --> 00:53:18,180
These studs need to be
lined up perfectly.
306
00:53:12,940 --> 00:53:15,420
they're hand-finished.
307
00:54:14,900 --> 00:54:18,620
this highly complex
3D jigsaw is complete.
308
00:54:47,300 --> 00:54:50,620
that bar code can
trace it back to me? Yeah.
309
00:54:44,540 --> 00:54:47,300
So if there was a problem
with the studs that I put on,
310
00:54:42,380 --> 00:54:44,540
It's just in case
they come back with a fault.
311
00:54:40,940 --> 00:54:42,380
Why do you bar code them?
312
00:54:39,260 --> 00:54:40,940
You scan it just to get
onto the screen.
313
00:54:36,580 --> 00:54:39,260
This is the final inspection.
314
00:54:28,100 --> 00:54:31,620
So we're taking them
to the inspection department.
315
00:54:21,700 --> 00:54:26,740
My jacket and the last of the day's
batch now need checking and packing.
316
00:53:10,380 --> 00:53:12,940
Every jacket is unique,
so it's essential
317
00:54:11,900 --> 00:54:14,900
With all its separate pieces
sewn into place,
318
00:54:06,220 --> 00:54:09,060
And that's the jacket
complete on studs.
319
00:54:03,180 --> 00:54:06,220
And then Maureen will
put the top studs in.
320
00:54:00,740 --> 00:54:03,180
So Lindsay puts the eyelets in.
321
00:53:59,300 --> 00:54:00,740
This is the eyelet machine.
322
00:53:57,700 --> 00:53:59,300
Then you turn it.
323
00:53:56,260 --> 00:53:57,700
Haven't finished yet.
324
00:53:54,660 --> 00:53:56,260
You haven't finished yet.
Oh, hang on.
325
00:51:52,780 --> 00:51:55,100
That's amazing.
Wow!
326
00:52:25,260 --> 00:52:26,700
Coming through!
327
00:52:22,300 --> 00:52:25,260
..where I'm meeting Cath Edge.
328
00:52:20,420 --> 00:52:22,300
Look out!
Mind your backs.
329
00:52:17,540 --> 00:52:20,420
I'm heading to the
finishing section...
330
00:52:12,260 --> 00:52:16,380
But there are still some
important jobs to do.
331
00:52:10,420 --> 00:52:12,260
into the jacket making process.
332
00:52:05,780 --> 00:52:10,420
Back in South Shields,
we're 24 and three quarters hours
333
00:51:55,100 --> 00:51:57,660
All I need now is to do
a rain dance.
334
00:52:26,700 --> 00:52:28,300
Hello!
Come on!
335
00:51:49,980 --> 00:51:52,780
It does!
336
00:51:47,820 --> 00:51:49,980
Does it work?
337
00:51:45,380 --> 00:51:47,820
it's finally ready.
338
00:51:41,260 --> 00:51:45,380
After cutting, framing,
stitching and a bit of ferruling,
339
00:51:39,340 --> 00:51:41,260
And there we have it.
340
00:51:35,900 --> 00:51:39,340
called a ferrule is hammered on
to protect the tip.
341
00:51:32,460 --> 00:51:35,900
And finally, an elegant metal cap
342
00:51:30,620 --> 00:51:32,460
You're always meant
to roll your umbrella.
343
00:52:45,180 --> 00:52:47,940
That's to say that all the sewing
now is finished on the jacket
344
00:53:07,900 --> 00:53:10,380
where to put the studs.
345
00:53:05,340 --> 00:53:07,900
She'll use a yellow chalk
pencil so you know exactly
346
00:53:03,660 --> 00:53:05,340
on the jackets.
347
00:53:01,620 --> 00:53:03,660
Yes, this is Michelle,
she does all the marking
348
00:52:59,700 --> 00:53:01,620
This lady is drawing
all over your coats.
349
00:52:52,340 --> 00:52:56,740
Now it's time to prepare our jackets
for their final component.
350
00:52:49,540 --> 00:52:52,340
Sewing is over?
Sewing is over with, yeah.
351
00:52:47,940 --> 00:52:49,540
and it's ready for marking.
352
00:54:50,620 --> 00:54:53,540
Seriously, Cath?
I'll give you a ring!
353
00:52:41,540 --> 00:52:45,180
Well, the pressure's on here,
this is the end of the line!
354
00:52:39,900 --> 00:52:41,540
Brilliant!
355
00:52:37,540 --> 00:52:39,900
Are your Mother Hem?
I am.
356
00:52:35,820 --> 00:52:37,540
And these are our two hem finishers?
357
00:52:34,140 --> 00:52:35,820
They get hemmed first.
Right.
358
00:52:32,300 --> 00:52:34,140
Well, I try to be.
359
00:52:30,340 --> 00:52:32,300
I am, yes.
Right, OK.
360
00:52:28,300 --> 00:52:30,340
Cath, are you the boss of finishing?
361
00:56:52,180 --> 00:56:56,220
Russia, Japan, and Australia.
362
00:57:25,500 --> 00:57:28,940
It's been incredibly satisfying
seeing all that goes into making
363
00:57:15,980 --> 00:57:20,020
it's a waxed jacket, ready to cope
with the rainy weather.
364
00:57:11,460 --> 00:57:15,980
Nearly 25 hours after we started
processing our cotton,
365
00:57:08,860 --> 00:57:11,460
Coming through, Dave.
Where do you want it, on the right?
366
00:57:05,180 --> 00:57:08,860
The beautifully studded jackets.
367
00:57:01,540 --> 00:57:03,460
I've got to load these jackets.
OK.
368
00:56:59,740 --> 00:57:01,540
Excuse me, some of us
have got work to do.
369
00:56:57,580 --> 00:56:59,740
Helen, lovely to meet you.
And you.
370
00:57:28,940 --> 00:57:30,580
these British classics.
371
00:56:48,740 --> 00:56:52,180
as well as countries
as far afield as the USA,
372
00:56:45,100 --> 00:56:48,740
The jackets head to stores
right across the UK,
373
00:56:43,020 --> 00:56:45,100
from there.
374
00:56:39,820 --> 00:56:43,020
And then they're distributed out
to all over the world
375
00:56:38,020 --> 00:56:39,820
of the jackets from here.
376
00:56:35,780 --> 00:56:38,020
We have one distribution
point that takes all
377
00:56:32,860 --> 00:56:35,780
because you're basically sending out
six of these cages? Yeah.
378
00:56:30,820 --> 00:56:32,860
That's why you haven't
got a massive dispatch,
379
00:58:06,540 --> 00:58:10,700
visiting one of the biggest
croissant factories in the world.
380
00:58:28,260 --> 00:59:00,030
You could hurt someone with those.
381
00:58:24,340 --> 00:58:28,260
And Cherry learns what makes
the perfect pastry.
382
00:58:22,580 --> 00:58:24,340
the more I like it.
383
00:58:20,780 --> 00:58:22,580
The more I learn
about the croissant,
384
00:58:19,300 --> 00:58:20,780
You know what?
385
00:58:15,460 --> 00:58:19,300
Where every hour, 18,000 breakfasts
roll off the production line.
386
00:58:12,420 --> 00:58:15,460
That is a massage parlour
for croissants.
387
00:58:10,700 --> 00:58:12,420
That is fantastic!
388
00:56:27,540 --> 00:56:30,820
And each cage will contain
about 100 jackets.
389
00:58:05,020 --> 00:58:06,540
..I'm in France,
390
00:58:02,700 --> 00:58:05,020
This is hard work.
391
00:58:01,260 --> 00:58:02,700
Next time...
392
00:57:44,660 --> 00:57:48,220
There is, without doubt,
a highly skilled workforce here.
393
00:57:41,340 --> 00:57:44,660
And then when I realised that,
how quickly they do it.
394
00:57:37,220 --> 00:57:41,340
But what's amazed me is,
it's virtually made by hand.
395
00:57:33,940 --> 00:57:37,220
All the way from the wax cotton
to the finished jacket.
396
00:57:31,740 --> 00:57:33,940
I thought the process
was fascinating.
397
00:55:10,620 --> 00:55:12,580
Put your hand in the pocket.
398
00:55:31,540 --> 00:55:34,580
Do you want a bag?
Yes, I do want a bag, yeah.
399
00:55:29,180 --> 00:55:31,540
And then you just fold it in half.
400
00:55:26,860 --> 00:55:29,180
Every single jacket.
Right, right, right.
401
00:55:25,020 --> 00:55:26,860
Yes.
Every single one?
402
00:55:22,780 --> 00:55:25,020
Do you have to do this on
every single one, or just...?
403
00:55:20,780 --> 00:55:22,780
in just two minutes.
404
00:55:16,500 --> 00:55:20,780
The team is so experienced,
they can examine every centimetre
405
00:55:12,580 --> 00:55:14,180
And zip it up.
406
00:55:35,860 --> 00:55:37,260
That's it.
407
00:55:08,980 --> 00:55:10,620
Check the eyelets on the pocket.
408
00:55:07,260 --> 00:55:08,980
Check the back of your collar.
409
00:55:04,940 --> 00:55:07,260
Fold it in half.
410
00:55:02,700 --> 00:55:04,940
Washers on the eyelets.
411
00:55:00,260 --> 00:55:02,700
Check for any weaving faults.
412
00:54:57,500 --> 00:55:00,260
Right, show me what you're
checking for. Right.
413
00:54:56,380 --> 00:54:57,500
Yeah, it is.
414
00:54:53,540 --> 00:54:56,380
That bar code is your jacket's DNA.
415
00:55:58,940 --> 00:56:00,780
Cath, thank you, thank you so much.
No problem.
416
00:56:22,780 --> 00:56:25,100
We send out 650 jackets a day.
417
00:56:20,220 --> 00:56:22,780
This might be the smallest
dispatch area I have ever seen.
418
00:56:16,220 --> 00:56:20,220
Now, you must be Helen?
I am.
419
00:56:14,180 --> 00:56:16,220
Helen Barbour.
420
00:56:11,220 --> 00:56:14,180
..where I'm meeting
company vice-chairman
421
00:56:08,700 --> 00:56:11,220
Exceptional stud work.
422
00:56:06,260 --> 00:56:08,700
Coming through,
with a perfect batch!
423
00:56:02,020 --> 00:56:06,260
Jackets finished, I'm taking them
through to the dispatch area...
424
00:51:28,340 --> 00:51:30,620
..before the finishing touch
is added.
425
00:55:57,620 --> 00:55:58,940
Leave this with me.
426
00:55:56,260 --> 00:55:57,620
Over there, right?
Yeah.
427
00:55:54,300 --> 00:55:56,260
That's ready for dispatch.
428
00:55:52,460 --> 00:55:54,300
Right, Gregg, that's
the security tag on. Right.
429
00:55:46,580 --> 00:55:48,780
That's your jacket complete.
430
00:55:42,100 --> 00:55:43,500
Pop that into the bag.
431
00:55:40,020 --> 00:55:42,100
I couldn't even do the bag!
432
00:55:37,260 --> 00:55:40,020
I couldn't even get
the bag the right way up.
433
00:46:40,980 --> 00:46:44,820
Another popular way to keep
off the rain is the humble umbrella.
434
00:47:11,260 --> 00:47:16,660
Fox Umbrellas have been
handcrafting brollies since 1868.
435
00:47:06,940 --> 00:47:08,380
Thank you.
436
00:47:04,900 --> 00:47:06,940
All right, you can stop now.
437
00:47:00,420 --> 00:47:04,900
The simple technology has saved
my skin on many an occasion.
438
00:46:57,220 --> 00:47:00,420
I will not leave the house
without my trusty umbrella.
439
00:46:54,540 --> 00:46:57,220
If the weather is looking
a little bit dodgy outside,
440
00:46:50,100 --> 00:46:52,940
Cherry is finding out
how they're made.
441
00:46:44,820 --> 00:46:50,100
We spend an astonishing
£10 million on them every year.
442
00:47:16,660 --> 00:47:19,940
Their components and manufacturing
methods have barely changed
443
00:46:37,420 --> 00:46:40,980
Of course, waxed jackets are only
one way to stay dry.
444
00:46:30,900 --> 00:46:32,700
Thank you so much.
Thank you.
445
00:46:28,980 --> 00:46:30,900
We've finished too?
We've finished too.
446
00:46:26,740 --> 00:46:28,980
Are you coming there? No.
We've finished.
447
00:46:24,700 --> 00:46:26,740
Do you want to pick it up
and take them?
448
00:46:22,900 --> 00:46:24,700
Does that actually mean the finish?
Yes.
449
00:46:21,460 --> 00:46:22,900
Finishing section?
Finishing section.
450
00:46:18,340 --> 00:46:21,460
The hem and the studs is done
in the finishing section.
451
00:47:40,740 --> 00:47:43,980
I've got 15 different woods
to choose from.
452
00:48:03,740 --> 00:48:05,020
It's about 100 years old.
453
00:48:02,100 --> 00:48:03,740
What an amazing machine.
454
00:47:58,900 --> 00:48:02,100
The first job is to cut
my stick to size.
455
00:47:56,940 --> 00:47:58,900
and easy to work with.
456
00:47:52,900 --> 00:47:56,940
Not only is it strong,
but maple is also very supple
457
00:47:50,260 --> 00:47:52,900
It's got lovely graining in it,
very strong.
458
00:47:48,500 --> 00:47:50,260
That's maple.
459
00:47:43,980 --> 00:47:48,500
I love that one, because it's got
lots of interesting markings on it.
460
00:46:13,340 --> 00:46:18,340
And that is obviously not finished.
461
00:47:38,380 --> 00:47:40,740
Isn't that beautiful?
462
00:47:35,340 --> 00:47:36,860
Oh, beautiful, wow!
463
00:47:33,260 --> 00:47:35,340
This is where we choose
what wood we're going to use.
464
00:47:30,100 --> 00:47:33,260
Each and every one begins
with the handle.
465
00:47:26,660 --> 00:47:30,100
..oversees production
of 400 brollies a week.
466
00:47:24,620 --> 00:47:26,660
Hi, John.
Hi, how are you doing?
467
00:47:22,540 --> 00:47:24,620
Today, factory owner John Garrett...
468
00:47:19,940 --> 00:47:22,540
in 150 years.
469
00:45:05,100 --> 00:45:07,260
of the major sections
put together.
470
00:45:28,540 --> 00:45:29,660
The sleeves!
471
00:45:25,820 --> 00:45:28,540
But there are a couple
of vital elements missing.
472
00:45:21,940 --> 00:45:25,820
We've got 18 of our waxed cotton
puzzle pieces in place.
473
00:45:19,500 --> 00:45:20,740
get any mistakes.
474
00:45:16,260 --> 00:45:19,500
These girls are so skilled
that very rarely we ever
475
00:45:14,420 --> 00:45:16,260
That fits perfectly in line.
476
00:45:10,180 --> 00:45:12,180
And that fits perfectly.
477
00:45:07,260 --> 00:45:08,500
That's brilliant!
478
00:45:33,100 --> 00:45:34,540
Now...
479
00:45:02,260 --> 00:45:05,100
This is the first time
that I've seen one, two, three
480
00:45:00,020 --> 00:45:02,260
We are now attaching
the two fronts to your back.
481
00:44:58,380 --> 00:45:00,020
Come on, come on, come on!
482
00:44:56,740 --> 00:44:58,380
Is it being put together here?
Yes, it is.
483
00:44:51,700 --> 00:44:56,740
And it finally begins
to resemble the jacket I know!
484
00:44:49,460 --> 00:44:51,700
The zip is fitted...
485
00:44:44,180 --> 00:44:49,460
It's taken more than 24 hours
of production to get to this stage.
486
00:44:39,980 --> 00:44:42,540
And that's the pocket I saw put on.
487
00:45:52,020 --> 00:45:54,620
The collar is the last
piece to attach.
488
00:46:11,300 --> 00:46:13,340
Studs on it?
489
00:46:10,060 --> 00:46:11,300
But it's got no...
490
00:46:07,860 --> 00:46:10,060
Hang on...
491
00:46:02,580 --> 00:46:05,140
One with the finished collar
on it, please?
492
00:46:00,700 --> 00:46:02,580
Oh, let me see!
493
00:45:58,500 --> 00:46:00,700
hardwearing corduroy.
494
00:45:56,340 --> 00:45:58,500
Waxed cotton below,
and around the neck,
495
00:45:54,620 --> 00:45:56,340
It has two layers.
496
00:48:05,020 --> 00:48:06,900
That's absolutely incredible.
497
00:45:49,580 --> 00:45:52,020
Over here?
Yes.
498
00:45:47,940 --> 00:45:49,580
Collar goes on it
in your next stage.
499
00:45:45,940 --> 00:45:47,940
But there's still no
collar on it, right?
500
00:45:42,660 --> 00:45:45,940
So the sleeve actually follows
the shape of the jacket.
501
00:45:41,060 --> 00:45:42,660
of the sleeve.
502
00:45:38,860 --> 00:45:41,060
Christine knows which is the back
of the sleeve and the front
503
00:45:36,620 --> 00:45:38,860
Because there's
no pattern to follow.
504
00:45:34,540 --> 00:45:36,620
This looks tricky, the sleeves.
It is.
505
00:50:08,260 --> 00:50:11,620
Oh, that is fabulous.
506
00:50:31,300 --> 00:50:33,900
So then it will be sealed
with the repellency.
507
00:50:27,140 --> 00:50:31,300
The waterproofing process is done
when the fabric is woven together.
508
00:50:24,020 --> 00:50:27,140
are being cut out for my canopy.
509
00:50:20,380 --> 00:50:24,020
Next door, eight panels
of lightweight, waterproof polyester
510
00:50:17,380 --> 00:50:19,100
down the street like this.
You would.
511
00:50:15,820 --> 00:50:17,380
I think I'd get a few
funny looks if I walked
512
00:50:14,260 --> 00:50:15,820
I think we need to put
a cover on it.
513
00:50:11,620 --> 00:50:14,260
It's more kind of helicopter
than an umbrella, isn't it?
514
00:50:33,900 --> 00:50:37,380
So it's an actual chemical and
also the way the material is made
515
00:50:04,740 --> 00:50:08,260
Stretchers attached,
fixing the ribs is straightforward.
516
00:49:56,780 --> 00:50:00,020
All right! Then we're going
to use the cutters.
517
00:49:55,100 --> 00:49:56,780
There we go!
518
00:49:52,500 --> 00:49:55,100
It's definitely a job
for the professional.
519
00:49:51,020 --> 00:49:52,500
No, that way!
520
00:49:49,060 --> 00:49:51,020
Keep the umbrella pointing down.
That way?
521
00:49:47,420 --> 00:49:49,060
That's going in, you stay in there!
522
00:49:44,420 --> 00:49:47,420
Oh no, they've all come off.
They've all come off.
523
00:50:58,940 --> 00:51:01,980
And it's absolutely perfect.
524
00:51:25,580 --> 00:51:28,340
Just that little bit there, yeah.
OK.
525
00:51:22,500 --> 00:51:25,580
Once it's in place,
I need to iron out any creases...
526
00:51:18,220 --> 00:51:22,500
If it's not tight enough,
we'll get a droopy canopy.
527
00:51:15,180 --> 00:51:18,220
OK, you can do the rest!
528
00:51:10,740 --> 00:51:12,540
It really hurts.
529
00:51:07,260 --> 00:51:09,700
You're just pulling it up
and hooking it over.
530
00:51:05,500 --> 00:51:07,260
to attach the tips.
531
00:51:01,980 --> 00:51:05,500
At last, my frame and canopy
are brought together and it's time
532
00:49:42,340 --> 00:49:44,420
You've lost one.
533
00:50:56,700 --> 00:50:58,940
That was so fast!
534
00:50:55,460 --> 00:50:56,700
Look at that.
535
00:50:49,580 --> 00:50:54,260
A team of highly skilled machinists
stitch our panels together.
536
00:50:46,740 --> 00:50:49,580
And there's your cover.
537
00:50:45,300 --> 00:50:46,740
Ta-da!
538
00:50:41,340 --> 00:50:45,300
So when it's all stitched together,
the thread is waterproof as well.
539
00:50:39,100 --> 00:50:41,340
And not only that,
we use waterproof thread as well.
540
00:50:37,380 --> 00:50:39,100
is waterproof?
Exactly.
541
00:48:32,860 --> 00:48:34,180
for the springs.
542
00:48:52,500 --> 00:48:56,020
Then simple steel springs
are hammered into the groove.
543
00:48:49,980 --> 00:48:51,300
I feel so proud!
544
00:48:48,540 --> 00:48:49,980
Did it work? It worked.
545
00:48:43,660 --> 00:48:48,540
The blade cuts an 8.5cm-long
channel into the wood.
546
00:48:41,300 --> 00:48:43,660
And then pull away.
547
00:48:39,420 --> 00:48:41,300
Keep going until it stops.
Yeah.
548
00:48:37,340 --> 00:48:39,420
in the open or closed position.
549
00:48:34,180 --> 00:48:37,340
The slots will house the wire
springs which lock the umbrella
550
00:48:56,020 --> 00:49:00,020
And a runner is slid onto the stick.
551
00:48:30,340 --> 00:48:32,860
So the next stage is,
we're going to cut the slots
552
00:48:25,940 --> 00:48:30,340
from members of the royal family
to US President John F Kennedy.
553
00:48:20,700 --> 00:48:25,940
This machine has made brollies
for some illustrious customers,
554
00:48:18,700 --> 00:48:20,700
Keep it on the blade.
555
00:48:15,620 --> 00:48:18,700
Oh, my God, I really don't
want to mess it up.
556
00:48:12,980 --> 00:48:15,620
It's the perfect height
for the average person.
557
00:48:10,940 --> 00:48:12,980
36 inches in length.
558
00:48:06,900 --> 00:48:10,940
We'll use a belt-driven circular saw
to trim it to precisely
559
00:49:22,660 --> 00:49:24,980
out the canopy.
560
00:49:41,140 --> 00:49:42,340
This is...
561
00:49:39,900 --> 00:49:41,140
yeah, perfect.
562
00:49:37,700 --> 00:49:39,900
Then move, hold your index finger
and hold that one,
563
00:49:35,460 --> 00:49:37,700
Then that's come out.
So, yeah.
564
00:49:33,660 --> 00:49:35,460
Then that one gets...
First one's come out.
565
00:49:31,580 --> 00:49:33,660
Get that second one in,
you've got that.
566
00:49:27,940 --> 00:49:31,580
to the runner
with one-millimetre-thick wire.
567
00:49:24,980 --> 00:49:27,940
Now, the fiddly task
of attaching my stretchers
568
00:29:59,940 --> 00:30:03,220
It takes just seconds
for this hi-tech sewing machine
569
00:49:20,060 --> 00:49:22,660
A hinge, so this is the stretcher
part, so this is what pushes
570
00:49:17,260 --> 00:49:20,060
These are the ribs. And then
you've got kind of hinge here.
571
00:49:14,940 --> 00:49:17,260
This is like the skeleton
of the umbrella.
572
00:49:13,100 --> 00:49:14,940
support the canopy.
573
00:49:10,300 --> 00:49:13,100
The next job is to attach
the steel frame, which will
574
00:49:05,620 --> 00:49:10,300
It's so simple and yet
so brilliant and elegant.
575
00:49:02,940 --> 00:49:05,620
And then the top spring
locks it in place there.
576
00:49:00,020 --> 00:49:02,940
So this locks in place here
on this spring.
577
00:10:13,660 --> 00:10:16,340
Looks like the Hadron Collider,
this is immense!
578
00:10:31,940 --> 00:10:36,020
you've got the vertical threads,
and then the horizontal threads.
579
00:10:29,340 --> 00:10:31,940
Right, so if we've got
our piece of material,
580
00:10:25,500 --> 00:10:29,340
The warp are the vertical threads
that we need to begin our weaving.
581
00:10:23,020 --> 00:10:25,500
What is a warp?
582
00:10:21,580 --> 00:10:23,020
and we're creating the warp.
583
00:10:19,340 --> 00:10:21,580
What we're doing is, we're taking
our twisted threads
584
00:10:17,780 --> 00:10:19,340
What is going on in here?
585
00:10:16,340 --> 00:10:17,780
This is our warping machine.
586
00:10:36,020 --> 00:10:39,340
This is doing the vertical threads?
Yep.
587
00:10:11,460 --> 00:10:13,660
Are you trying to smash
particles together?
588
00:10:09,220 --> 00:10:11,460
Holy moley!
589
00:10:03,540 --> 00:10:07,700
they're spun onto a drum
with a seven-metre circumference.
590
00:10:00,740 --> 00:10:03,540
Before these yarns
can be woven together,
591
00:09:56,620 --> 00:10:00,740
The blue, the denim, a green
and brown or a bronze colour. Yes.
592
00:09:53,820 --> 00:09:56,620
Here, we have four colour
components for this tweed.
593
00:09:50,420 --> 00:09:53,820
but also produces a thread
that's stronger and denser.
594
00:09:47,300 --> 00:09:50,420
Twisting them together not only
creates a new colour,
595
00:11:04,460 --> 00:11:06,740
on this hi-tech rapier loom.
596
00:11:27,420 --> 00:11:30,700
The loom lifts each
alternate warp thread,
597
00:11:24,580 --> 00:11:26,380
happening about six times a second.
598
00:11:22,140 --> 00:11:24,580
across to the other side
of the cloth and that's probably
599
00:11:19,900 --> 00:11:22,140
they meet in the middle,
transfer that thread
600
00:11:17,580 --> 00:11:19,900
the weft thread,
bringing it into the middle,
601
00:11:14,020 --> 00:11:17,580
So we have two rapiers at each end
which are basically picking up
602
00:11:10,140 --> 00:11:11,780
Look at that go.
603
00:11:07,940 --> 00:11:10,140
Oh, my goodness me!
604
00:09:43,980 --> 00:09:47,300
so literally just put
a twist on the yarn. Right!
605
00:11:00,180 --> 00:11:04,460
Now we're ready for them to meet
the horizontal weft threads
606
00:10:55,060 --> 00:10:58,820
called a beam, which will create
the vertical pattern.
607
00:10:52,300 --> 00:10:55,060
The threads are rolled
onto this huge bobbin,
608
00:10:49,620 --> 00:10:52,300
150 centimetres wide.
609
00:10:45,060 --> 00:10:49,620
This warp is made up of 2,000
threads, which will produce a fabric
610
00:10:42,660 --> 00:10:45,060
I'm hanging on by a thread.
Yes.
611
00:10:40,940 --> 00:10:42,660
Am I with you?
You're with me.
612
00:10:39,340 --> 00:10:40,940
And that's called a warp?
A warp.
613
00:08:20,060 --> 00:08:23,260
We're on our way to making
water resistant coats.
614
00:08:47,580 --> 00:08:50,860
making traditional heavy-duty tweed.
615
00:08:45,340 --> 00:08:47,580
sound of mechanical looms
616
00:08:41,860 --> 00:08:45,340
200 years ago, these streets
would have rung with the clattering
617
00:08:36,820 --> 00:08:39,820
where Cherry is learning
her warp from her weft.
618
00:08:32,780 --> 00:08:36,820
Historically, it was made in
the Scottish borders town of Hawick,
619
00:08:28,540 --> 00:08:30,540
Tweed!
620
00:08:25,860 --> 00:08:28,540
another very British
fabric ruled the roost.
621
00:08:23,260 --> 00:08:25,860
But long before
waxed cotton came along,
622
00:08:50,860 --> 00:08:53,660
And they would have needed it
in weather like this.
623
00:08:16,100 --> 00:08:20,060
I don't think jackets are supposed
to be this complicated!
624
00:08:12,620 --> 00:08:14,460
so the enzyme can soak in.
625
00:08:09,220 --> 00:08:12,620
And then it's wrapped
in polythene for six hours,
626
00:08:06,340 --> 00:08:09,220
It takes 45 minutes
to dip all our cotton.
627
00:08:04,500 --> 00:08:06,340
the enzyme to work.
628
00:08:02,060 --> 00:08:04,500
The longer you leave it,
the longer you are giving
629
00:07:58,820 --> 00:08:00,420
the starch in our food.
630
00:07:55,580 --> 00:07:58,820
It's also present in saliva,
where it helps to break down
631
00:09:22,100 --> 00:09:24,220
That's an impressive
great wall of yarn.
632
00:09:40,780 --> 00:09:43,980
What we are wanting to do is
to twist those into a combination,
633
00:09:37,420 --> 00:09:39,740
we're combining
two colours together.
634
00:09:35,340 --> 00:09:37,420
Yeah, OK, so the first stage here,
635
00:09:33,860 --> 00:09:35,340
My goodness me!
636
00:09:30,700 --> 00:09:32,860
tweed's complex colours.
637
00:09:27,740 --> 00:09:30,700
First, these vibrant shades
need blending to help create
638
00:09:25,940 --> 00:09:27,740
It's amazing, isn't it?
639
00:09:24,220 --> 00:09:25,940
The great wall of yarn,
it is indeed.
640
00:11:30,700 --> 00:11:34,220
and a computer-controlled rapier
carries the weft thread
641
00:09:19,860 --> 00:09:22,100
Hi, James, lovely to meet you.
Hello, good to see you!
642
00:09:15,820 --> 00:09:18,620
James Fleming is
the operations manager.
643
00:09:12,060 --> 00:09:14,380
of this iconic cloth every year.
644
00:09:08,380 --> 00:09:12,060
Here at Lovat Mill,
they produce 125 miles
645
00:09:05,020 --> 00:09:06,940
to repel water.
646
00:09:01,580 --> 00:09:05,020
But it's the tight weave of
this woollen fabric that helps it
647
00:08:58,740 --> 00:09:01,580
and intricate colour combinations.
648
00:08:55,900 --> 00:08:58,740
Tweed is famous for its diagonal
twill pattern
649
00:13:53,260 --> 00:13:54,780
It is green!
650
00:14:27,180 --> 00:14:31,980
First, a giant mangle squeezes out
25% of the moisture.
651
00:14:22,060 --> 00:14:27,180
After a five-hour swim in the
hot dye, our cloth needs drying.
652
00:14:15,700 --> 00:14:19,420
Mate, if I get picked up by aliens,
can you tell my wife I love her?
653
00:14:13,980 --> 00:14:15,700
As we disappear!
654
00:14:09,620 --> 00:14:11,860
95 degrees Celsius.
655
00:14:05,980 --> 00:14:09,620
while the liquid heats up
to a positively steamy
656
00:14:02,260 --> 00:14:05,980
And the cotton is dipped
in and out 16 times,
657
00:13:58,780 --> 00:14:02,260
The colour floods into the bottom
of the dying machine.
658
00:14:31,980 --> 00:14:37,180
Then, it travels through
a 16-metre long oven,
659
00:13:51,220 --> 00:13:53,260
All right, all right, all right.
660
00:13:46,140 --> 00:13:47,780
of dye powder.
661
00:13:43,100 --> 00:13:46,140
And it dissolves as fast
as our eight and a half kilos
662
00:13:39,100 --> 00:13:43,100
It's the same stuff our dishwasher
tablets come wrapped in.
663
00:13:35,140 --> 00:13:37,940
You can't put the plastic in there!
It's dissolvable plastic.
664
00:13:33,060 --> 00:13:35,140
That's it, let go of the plastic.
665
00:13:31,340 --> 00:13:33,060
What, the whole bag?
666
00:13:29,700 --> 00:13:31,340
No, no, just lower the bag in.
667
00:15:03,460 --> 00:15:07,140
Yeah, because the wax and the oil
will change that colour again.
668
00:15:31,780 --> 00:15:33,620
This is all just waxing, yeah.
669
00:15:28,940 --> 00:15:31,780
That thing there, this machine,
all this just for waxing it?
670
00:15:26,980 --> 00:15:28,940
Gregg.
Pleased to meet you, Gregg.
671
00:15:25,340 --> 00:15:26,980
Are you Jimmy?
672
00:15:20,620 --> 00:15:25,340
Managing director Jimmy Campbell
is overseeing this crucial job.
673
00:15:17,140 --> 00:15:19,620
for its all important wax layer.
674
00:15:12,980 --> 00:15:17,140
Dyed and dried, the cotton
for our coats is finally ready
675
00:15:07,140 --> 00:15:09,860
Right, right.
676
00:13:28,460 --> 00:13:29,700
What, empty it in?
677
00:15:00,940 --> 00:15:03,460
But that doesn't look
like the jacket as I know it.
678
00:14:57,860 --> 00:15:00,940
You've ruined it!
No, that's plenty dark.
679
00:14:56,060 --> 00:14:57,860
That's too light!
No, it's not.
680
00:14:54,220 --> 00:14:56,060
The colour doesn't look right!
681
00:14:50,620 --> 00:14:54,220
can actually be treated
so strenuously. Yeah.
682
00:14:47,100 --> 00:14:50,620
I can't believe something
I considered as delicate as cotton
683
00:14:45,540 --> 00:14:47,100
God, that is red hot!
684
00:14:37,180 --> 00:14:40,540
emerging an hour and a half later
perfectly dry.
685
00:11:56,260 --> 00:11:59,140
Ten metres of tweed
roll off each hour.
686
00:12:25,380 --> 00:12:27,740
Full of really, really odd words!
687
00:12:22,980 --> 00:12:25,380
And full of lots of
hard work as well.
688
00:12:21,660 --> 00:12:22,980
It is indeed.
689
00:12:19,220 --> 00:12:21,660
It is a material
that is full of history.
690
00:12:10,340 --> 00:12:14,340
There it is,
washed, pressed, and ready.
691
00:12:08,660 --> 00:12:10,340
Wow!
692
00:12:04,380 --> 00:12:06,940
repairing any imperfections by hand.
693
00:12:00,740 --> 00:12:04,380
And experts meticulously
inspect every centimetre,
694
00:12:36,100 --> 00:12:41,180
After more than ten and a half
hours of production,
695
00:11:52,660 --> 00:11:56,260
and you see the intricacies of
the weave and the colour mixtures.
696
00:11:49,980 --> 00:11:52,660
Yeah, completely, it's just,
it bursts out when you get closer
697
00:11:47,820 --> 00:11:49,980
Absolutely jam-packed
full of colour.
698
00:11:45,500 --> 00:11:47,820
It's full of colour!
It's amazing.
699
00:11:41,860 --> 00:11:45,500
and the process repeats, gradually
building up our twill pattern.
700
00:11:39,020 --> 00:11:41,860
Then a bar pushes the weft
down onto the warp,
701
00:11:37,260 --> 00:11:39,020
on the other side.
702
00:11:34,220 --> 00:11:37,260
through the gap, passing it
to another rapier
703
00:13:06,740 --> 00:13:09,180
You said it was green!
704
00:13:25,740 --> 00:13:28,460
and just lower that bag
into the tank.
705
00:13:22,620 --> 00:13:25,740
Right, Gregg, so if you want
to take hold of that bag,
706
00:13:17,940 --> 00:13:22,620
Don't mess it up, because no-one
is going to want orange jackets!
707
00:13:16,100 --> 00:13:17,940
And that will make green?
708
00:13:14,260 --> 00:13:16,100
There's a yellow, a red, and a blue.
709
00:13:12,340 --> 00:13:14,260
Yes, because there's
three colours in here.
710
00:13:10,700 --> 00:13:12,340
That, my friend, is orange.
711
00:13:09,180 --> 00:13:10,700
It is green.
712
00:07:52,580 --> 00:07:55,580
The enzyme is called amylase.
713
00:13:04,260 --> 00:13:06,740
Lift that out of there.
714
00:13:02,500 --> 00:13:04,260
That's the colour, yes.
715
00:13:00,660 --> 00:13:02,500
Is that the dye?
716
00:12:58,220 --> 00:13:00,660
we're making.
717
00:12:54,580 --> 00:12:58,220
So it's ready to become the classic
sage green of the coats
718
00:12:49,700 --> 00:12:52,660
It's fed by hand
into the dyeing machine.
719
00:12:44,900 --> 00:12:47,620
through its own colour
transformation.
720
00:12:41,180 --> 00:12:44,900
our giant roll of plain cotton
fabric is about to go
721
00:02:37,340 --> 00:02:39,780
of one of their best sellers.
722
00:03:10,940 --> 00:03:15,260
Production manager Derek Orr
is checking in today's shipment.
723
00:03:04,900 --> 00:03:08,540
Every week, a lorry arrives here
laden with cotton.
724
00:02:59,220 --> 00:03:02,060
..to the Halley Stevensons
textile mill.
725
00:02:54,100 --> 00:02:56,340
to the Scottish city of Dundee...
726
00:02:49,420 --> 00:02:54,100
And to get that,
I'm heading 190 miles north,
727
00:02:45,260 --> 00:02:49,420
we're going to need
a super-size batch of cloth.
728
00:02:42,740 --> 00:02:45,260
But before we start
making our waxed jackets,
729
00:02:39,780 --> 00:02:41,380
The Bedale in sage green.
730
00:03:15,260 --> 00:03:17,500
You must be Derek?
Yep.
731
00:02:35,300 --> 00:02:37,340
This time, we're following
production
732
00:02:32,580 --> 00:02:35,300
25 different designs.
733
00:02:28,740 --> 00:02:32,580
More than 150 people cut,
stitch and rivet
734
00:02:23,620 --> 00:02:25,060
for 125 years.
735
00:02:20,740 --> 00:02:23,620
Because after all,
they've been making them
736
00:02:17,500 --> 00:02:20,740
The guys here know a thing
or two about jackets.
737
00:02:14,900 --> 00:02:17,500
A stone's throw from
Newcastle upon Tyne.
738
00:02:11,860 --> 00:02:14,900
This is the Barbour factory
in South Shields.
739
00:03:39,140 --> 00:03:42,060
That's a phenomenal amount.
740
00:04:09,900 --> 00:04:12,140
Our first stop is
a batching machine
741
00:04:07,940 --> 00:04:09,900
Right.
Nice and heavy.
742
00:04:02,780 --> 00:04:05,620
..production of our
waxed jackets begins.
743
00:03:57,660 --> 00:04:00,140
As the raw cotton enters the mill...
744
00:03:51,820 --> 00:03:53,780
Come on, come on. OK.
Where do we go?
745
00:03:48,940 --> 00:03:51,820
Can you show me what you do
to that cotton, please? Yes.
746
00:03:45,500 --> 00:03:48,940
And there are 133 of them on board.
747
00:03:42,060 --> 00:03:45,500
One roll is enough
to make 333 jackets.
748
00:01:50,500 --> 00:01:52,660
Welcome to Inside the Factory.
749
00:03:37,020 --> 00:03:39,140
500 metres.
750
00:03:32,980 --> 00:03:37,020
If one of those was rolled out flat,
what's the length of cotton?
751
00:03:28,860 --> 00:03:31,980
That makes each one
about two Gregg Wallaces.
752
00:03:25,860 --> 00:03:28,860
They're around about
160 kilos a roll.
753
00:03:23,220 --> 00:03:25,860
And how much does
one of those rolls weigh?
754
00:03:21,380 --> 00:03:23,220
This is the roll cutting.
755
00:03:19,700 --> 00:03:21,380
What is this, please?
756
00:03:17,500 --> 00:03:19,700
Good to meet you.
Hi, Gregg.
757
00:00:29,900 --> 00:00:33,940
The jackets made in this factory
are exported to more than
758
00:00:52,260 --> 00:00:54,660
..cotton goes through
to become a coat.
759
00:00:50,020 --> 00:00:52,260
That's obviously supposed
to happen, right? Yes.
760
00:00:46,340 --> 00:00:50,020
And tonight I'll be following
the blistering work-out...
761
00:00:43,500 --> 00:00:46,340
You can feel the power of it.
762
00:00:41,060 --> 00:00:43,500
I'm Gregg Wallace.
763
00:00:39,420 --> 00:00:41,060
You're putting me off.
764
00:00:38,260 --> 00:00:39,420
Right.
765
00:00:33,940 --> 00:00:35,780
40 countries across the globe.
766
00:00:58,260 --> 00:00:59,540
This is my stand.
767
00:00:27,900 --> 00:00:29,900
Famous worldwide.
768
00:00:25,020 --> 00:00:27,900
It's an icon of British style.
769
00:00:18,940 --> 00:00:23,980
And few items work as hard to keep
us dry as the humble waxed jacket.
770
00:00:16,620 --> 00:00:18,940
You're going to need that.
Oh, no.
771
00:00:15,060 --> 00:00:16,620
clothing every year.
772
00:00:11,660 --> 00:00:15,060
It's no surprise then, that we spend
nearly £1 billion on outdoor
773
00:00:09,820 --> 00:00:11,660
talking about nothing else.
774
00:00:06,540 --> 00:00:09,820
On average, we spend over
five months of our life
775
00:01:19,860 --> 00:01:21,100
Oh, yeah!
776
00:01:47,620 --> 00:01:50,500
and 25,000 rivets.
777
00:01:43,660 --> 00:01:47,620
Getting through 2,600
metres of fabric
778
00:01:38,940 --> 00:01:43,660
the people in this factory
will stitch together 650 jackets.
779
00:01:35,700 --> 00:01:38,940
Come rain or shine,
over the next 24 hours,
780
00:01:29,420 --> 00:01:31,500
Smell that linseed oil!
781
00:01:27,140 --> 00:01:29,420
it would make enormous sense?
Yeah!
782
00:01:24,420 --> 00:01:27,140
I suppose if you've got waterproof
sailcloth hanging around,
783
00:01:21,100 --> 00:01:24,420
..investigates the fishy origins
of waxed jackets.
784
00:04:12,140 --> 00:04:14,940
that we're loading
with our fabric.
785
00:01:17,580 --> 00:01:19,860
And historian Ruth Goodman...
786
00:01:14,380 --> 00:01:17,580
I'm hanging on by a thread.
Yes.
787
00:01:12,060 --> 00:01:14,380
And unravelling
the technology behind tweed.
788
00:01:09,860 --> 00:01:12,060
That's breathable?
That's it.
789
00:01:07,460 --> 00:01:09,860
That is my waterproof jacket?
Yeah.
790
00:01:02,620 --> 00:01:07,460
I'm Cherry Healey and I'm learning
the dark art of defying a deluge.
791
00:01:00,780 --> 00:01:02,620
And here's me moleskin pocket.
Yeah.
792
00:00:59,540 --> 00:01:00,780
That's your stand.
793
00:06:30,860 --> 00:06:35,500
It's whipping through at a carefully
calculated one metre a second.
794
00:06:53,020 --> 00:06:55,020
That's correct.
Give it a smooth finish?
795
00:06:50,380 --> 00:06:53,020
So you're burning
all the hairy fibres off it?
796
00:06:48,940 --> 00:06:50,380
Erm, yes.
797
00:06:45,060 --> 00:06:46,940
Come on, mate,
you must have done.
798
00:06:43,220 --> 00:06:45,060
Have you ever set light to a fabric?
799
00:06:40,260 --> 00:06:43,220
It is, a lot of it is
trial and error, initially.
800
00:06:38,180 --> 00:06:40,260
and setting light
to the whole thing?
801
00:06:35,500 --> 00:06:38,180
It's got to be a fine balance
between burning the hairs off
802
00:06:55,020 --> 00:06:57,060
A nice smooth finish, yeah.
803
00:06:28,820 --> 00:06:30,860
We would set the fabric alight.
804
00:06:24,540 --> 00:06:28,820
If we slowed this down,
we would burn holes in the cloth.
805
00:06:22,140 --> 00:06:24,540
That is flame!
Speed.
806
00:06:19,300 --> 00:06:22,140
What stops the material
itself from burning?
807
00:06:16,220 --> 00:06:19,300
That's hotter than
an erupting volcano.
808
00:06:14,620 --> 00:06:16,220
at 2,000 degrees Celsius.
809
00:06:10,100 --> 00:06:14,620
The singeing machine is shooting out
gas-fuelled flames
810
00:06:08,500 --> 00:06:10,100
You will see it.
811
00:07:22,900 --> 00:07:25,900
then pulled in and out of it
seven times.
812
00:07:50,460 --> 00:07:52,580
Then we can wash it off, yes.
813
00:07:48,980 --> 00:07:50,460
And then you can wash it off?
814
00:07:46,620 --> 00:07:48,980
And that makes it easier to remove.
815
00:07:42,740 --> 00:07:46,620
We're adding an enzyme to
break down the starch into sugar.
816
00:07:38,700 --> 00:07:42,740
But detergent alone
isn't enough to shift it.
817
00:07:35,060 --> 00:07:38,700
like a barrier to the dye,
stopping it from taking evenly.
818
00:07:31,980 --> 00:07:35,060
We are going to be colouring our
cotton and the starch would act
819
00:07:27,700 --> 00:07:30,780
What are you doing there?
We need to get rid of the starch.
820
00:06:05,460 --> 00:06:07,420
and especially after dyeing.
821
00:07:19,580 --> 00:07:22,900
The cotton is plunged
into the near boiling water,
822
00:07:15,740 --> 00:07:18,180
So what is the temperature of that?
95 degrees.
823
00:07:14,100 --> 00:07:15,740
Thermal springs?
Almost.
824
00:07:12,900 --> 00:07:14,100
Don't tell me.
825
00:07:07,220 --> 00:07:09,660
immediately gets another scalding.
826
00:07:02,780 --> 00:07:07,220
After its baptism of fire,
our newly shorn cloth
827
00:06:58,540 --> 00:07:00,500
Almost as smooth as your head!
828
00:06:57,060 --> 00:06:58,540
How thorough is it?
829
00:04:33,780 --> 00:04:35,660
It helps with the strength
830
00:04:54,380 --> 00:04:57,980
We need one long length of cotton
to make processing easier.
831
00:04:52,740 --> 00:04:54,380
There's no time for snoozing.
832
00:04:50,100 --> 00:04:52,740
Can you turn the light out now?
833
00:04:48,260 --> 00:04:50,100
Are you all right on that side?
834
00:04:45,420 --> 00:04:48,260
It looks like we're
getting in bed together!
835
00:04:43,100 --> 00:04:45,420
Do we have to stand here
holding this?
836
00:04:39,780 --> 00:04:43,100
Its thread count is around the same
as my bed sheets at home.
837
00:04:35,660 --> 00:04:39,780
of the fabric, durability,
and water repellency.
838
00:04:57,980 --> 00:05:01,620
So we're joining five shorter pieces
end-to-end with a hefty
839
00:04:31,820 --> 00:04:33,780
Why do you want such a dense weave?
840
00:04:27,860 --> 00:04:31,820
Really, what you've got
is a tightly woven dense fabric.
841
00:04:25,100 --> 00:04:27,860
Just to strengthen the yarn
during the weaving process.
842
00:04:23,300 --> 00:04:25,100
Why add starch?
843
00:04:20,220 --> 00:04:23,300
No, it's the starch in the fabric
that is making it stiff.
844
00:04:18,620 --> 00:04:20,220
This is stiff.
845
00:04:16,700 --> 00:04:18,620
I was expecting this to be like
a loose cotton sheet.
846
00:04:14,940 --> 00:04:16,700
This feels stiff to me.
847
00:05:30,140 --> 00:05:33,780
But I wasn't expecting the process
to be such an extreme regime.
848
00:06:02,420 --> 00:06:05,460
Because it will affect the overall
appearance of the fabric
849
00:06:00,100 --> 00:06:02,420
Why can't it have a few
stray hairs left on it?
850
00:05:58,740 --> 00:06:00,100
getting rid of them.
851
00:05:54,900 --> 00:05:58,740
We're taking off any hairs
on the outside of the fabric,
852
00:05:52,300 --> 00:05:54,900
We're singeing off
any loose fibres.
853
00:05:50,780 --> 00:05:52,300
What's it doing?
854
00:05:42,860 --> 00:05:45,340
That's obviously supposed
to happen, right? Yes.
855
00:05:38,740 --> 00:05:40,460
That is on fire!
856
00:15:33,620 --> 00:15:38,460
We're starting near the top of
this 15-metre tall metal monster
857
00:05:27,540 --> 00:05:30,140
as a hard wearing jacket.
858
00:05:23,420 --> 00:05:27,540
Our fabric needs to be tough enough
to make the grade
859
00:05:18,940 --> 00:05:21,580
a mile and a half long.
860
00:05:15,500 --> 00:05:18,940
It takes three hours to create
a giant sheet of cotton
861
00:05:09,380 --> 00:05:11,140
And press down on it.
862
00:05:07,740 --> 00:05:09,380
And we're ready to roll.
863
00:05:04,900 --> 00:05:07,740
So, to start, all you do is
put your foot on that pedal.
864
00:05:01,620 --> 00:05:03,300
hand-held sewing machine.
865
00:25:23,500 --> 00:25:27,780
It's a complex three-dimensional
jigsaw, made up of the waxed cotton
866
00:25:47,900 --> 00:25:49,500
It could be.
867
00:25:45,220 --> 00:25:47,900
I mean, messing it up must be
the most expensive thing ever?
868
00:25:43,340 --> 00:25:45,220
On 100 jackets, yeah.
869
00:25:41,500 --> 00:25:43,340
one jacket, you get it wrong on 100?
870
00:25:38,740 --> 00:25:41,500
If you get this wrong,
you don't get it wrong on
871
00:25:34,860 --> 00:25:37,100
It all starts with cutting out.
872
00:25:31,820 --> 00:25:33,820
and a heavy-duty zip.
873
00:25:27,780 --> 00:25:31,820
outer, a tartan lining,
29 studs, ten eyelets,
874
00:25:49,500 --> 00:25:53,540
The layers must be perfectly aligned
to minimise mistakes.
875
00:25:19,420 --> 00:25:23,500
The company's been producing
this traditional style for 39 years.
876
00:25:17,620 --> 00:25:19,420
That'll do nicely.
877
00:25:11,700 --> 00:25:14,660
so the least amount
of material is wasted.
878
00:25:08,780 --> 00:25:11,700
Computer software has arranged
them on the paper,
879
00:25:04,260 --> 00:25:08,780
There are 23 waxed cotton parts
for our jacket.
880
00:25:02,980 --> 00:25:04,260
Yep.
881
00:25:00,740 --> 00:25:02,980
These are all the different
pieces of the jacket?
882
00:24:57,900 --> 00:25:00,740
Yes, it is. It is.
Turn round.
883
00:26:24,220 --> 00:26:26,260
to the prep section,
884
00:26:42,700 --> 00:26:44,780
Quite heavy.
885
00:26:40,940 --> 00:26:42,700
You can put those down.
886
00:26:39,300 --> 00:26:40,940
I am, Gregg.
Can I put these down?
887
00:26:37,380 --> 00:26:39,300
Janice!
Are you Janice?
888
00:26:33,420 --> 00:26:37,380
And with her 30 years' experience,
I'm in safe hands.
889
00:26:30,980 --> 00:26:33,420
Janice Warner is the team leader.
890
00:26:29,300 --> 00:26:30,980
Everything fitting OK?
891
00:26:26,260 --> 00:26:29,300
where seven of the jacket's pieces
are assembled.
892
00:24:55,860 --> 00:24:57,900
The pattern is all
the different shapes, right?
893
00:26:21,140 --> 00:26:24,220
of my jacket, I'm heading
from the cutting room
894
00:26:16,660 --> 00:26:21,140
And now, nearly 23 and three
quarters hours into production
895
00:26:11,940 --> 00:26:16,660
After 42 minutes of cutting, I've
got all the waxed cotton I need.
896
00:26:09,380 --> 00:26:11,940
Very sharp.
897
00:26:06,700 --> 00:26:09,380
I can see why you have
to wear that glove.
898
00:26:02,860 --> 00:26:06,700
It's razor-sharp,
so requires a chainmail glove.
899
00:25:58,300 --> 00:26:02,860
Gary's using a blade that's a cross
between a scalpel and a saw.
900
00:25:53,540 --> 00:25:56,580
So these are now clamped down firm?
Yeah.
901
00:23:45,220 --> 00:23:46,380
Stop there.
902
00:24:03,420 --> 00:24:06,540
And then we drop the clamp down,
it keeps the material in place.
903
00:23:58,020 --> 00:24:03,420
The machine's job is to measure out
waxed cotton into 1.5 metre squares.
904
00:23:56,140 --> 00:23:58,020
Wow!
905
00:23:53,300 --> 00:23:56,140
If you want to go that way,
you turn it to the opposite way.
906
00:23:50,700 --> 00:23:53,300
If you want to go that way,
you turn it towards you.
907
00:23:49,220 --> 00:23:50,700
This control here.
908
00:23:47,620 --> 00:23:49,220
This is where the fun starts.
909
00:23:46,380 --> 00:23:47,620
Right, then.
910
00:24:06,540 --> 00:24:07,860
Oh, I see.
And you go back again?
911
00:23:43,780 --> 00:23:45,220
Keep going?
912
00:23:41,300 --> 00:23:43,780
as an automatic fabric spreader.
913
00:23:38,500 --> 00:23:41,300
We load our roll into
what's known in the trade
914
00:23:35,260 --> 00:23:38,500
Is it just pressing the button?
Yup, that one's up.
915
00:23:33,580 --> 00:23:35,260
Right, can I do that?
Course you can!
916
00:23:31,780 --> 00:23:33,580
Right, we have to hoist it up
onto the machine.
917
00:23:28,740 --> 00:23:31,780
Right.
How do we make these into jackets?
918
00:23:26,700 --> 00:23:28,740
Yes, I am.
919
00:24:34,340 --> 00:24:35,540
And cut, right?
920
00:24:54,020 --> 00:24:55,860
If you wouldn't mind
putting that on for us?
921
00:24:52,020 --> 00:24:54,020
Right, we need to put the pattern on
and get ready to cut.
922
00:24:50,020 --> 00:24:52,020
So, what do we do now?
923
00:24:47,580 --> 00:24:50,020
We could be a team, Gary.
We could.
924
00:24:45,220 --> 00:24:47,580
which takes us 59 minutes.
925
00:24:41,020 --> 00:24:45,220
I'm helping to make one coat
but they cut them in batches of 100,
926
00:24:39,620 --> 00:24:41,020
No, luckily.
927
00:24:37,420 --> 00:24:39,620
Has that ever come off the end?
928
00:26:44,780 --> 00:26:47,220
Right, what are we doing, then?
You're going to make a stand.
929
00:24:28,860 --> 00:24:30,460
And back again?
930
00:24:25,020 --> 00:24:28,860
The super sharp blade
slices through our fabric.
931
00:24:21,900 --> 00:24:23,100
Whoa!
932
00:24:19,700 --> 00:24:21,900
Whoa!
933
00:24:15,220 --> 00:24:18,340
So that is the button
so you just press it.
934
00:24:13,140 --> 00:24:15,220
And now we need to cut it.
935
00:24:09,980 --> 00:24:13,140
Just the right size
to make one jacket.
936
00:24:07,860 --> 00:24:09,980
And you go back up that end.
937
00:28:46,740 --> 00:28:47,900
I am.
938
00:29:09,780 --> 00:29:13,860
The powerful suction holds
the front panel in place.
939
00:29:05,580 --> 00:29:09,780
Press your left pedal,
you'll feel a suction.
940
00:29:03,460 --> 00:29:05,580
Watch your pedals.
941
00:29:01,700 --> 00:29:03,460
Take a seat.
942
00:28:59,740 --> 00:29:01,700
How hard is this, Kerry?
943
00:28:54,740 --> 00:28:56,900
Don't let Kerry bully me.
I'm harmless!
944
00:28:51,740 --> 00:28:54,740
to you what you've got to do
and how you've got to use it.
945
00:28:49,260 --> 00:28:51,740
It is complicated,
but Kerry is going to explain
946
00:29:13,860 --> 00:29:17,300
Hang on, it's now sucked
this cloth down to the table.
947
00:28:43,980 --> 00:28:46,740
Right, now, you're not going to
let me have a go at this, are you?
948
00:28:40,540 --> 00:28:42,940
And it can even cut as well as sew.
949
00:28:38,500 --> 00:28:40,540
the pocket perfectly.
950
00:28:34,460 --> 00:28:38,500
This clever machine has a laser
guidance system to place
951
00:28:29,780 --> 00:28:31,780
It's a tightly woven soft cotton.
952
00:28:27,140 --> 00:28:29,780
Right, but it's not really
made out of moles. No.
953
00:28:25,100 --> 00:28:27,140
They're furrier?
Yeah.
954
00:28:22,860 --> 00:28:25,100
I've held a hamster,
they're furrier.
955
00:29:33,780 --> 00:29:36,620
Put this one on top of your welt.
956
00:29:53,580 --> 00:29:57,260
You press once, twice, three,
there you are.
957
00:29:51,820 --> 00:29:53,580
And then do it again.
958
00:29:49,020 --> 00:29:51,820
Whoa!
Just once, one at a time!
959
00:29:46,740 --> 00:29:49,020
Press your left pedal.
960
00:29:45,140 --> 00:29:46,740
There? Yeah.
961
00:29:41,660 --> 00:29:43,300
And line that side up.
962
00:29:39,740 --> 00:29:41,660
I'm sure that's an old
Yorkshire saying.
963
00:29:36,620 --> 00:29:39,740
Put me moleskin on top of me welt?
964
00:28:20,660 --> 00:28:22,860
Have your touched a mole, Kerry?
No.
965
00:29:30,500 --> 00:29:32,740
And if you get the moleskins.
966
00:29:28,860 --> 00:29:30,500
Like that there, yeah?
967
00:29:27,260 --> 00:29:28,860
Just lie it to the corner.
968
00:29:25,660 --> 00:29:27,260
And then that's gotta...
969
00:29:22,700 --> 00:29:25,660
Yeah, that's it.
That way up? Yeah.
970
00:29:20,740 --> 00:29:22,700
Pick a welt up.
Is that it there?
971
00:29:18,740 --> 00:29:20,740
So that makes sure
all the bits don't move.
972
00:29:17,300 --> 00:29:18,740
Right, go on.
973
00:27:08,140 --> 00:27:11,180
So basically you are feeding
that material down two sides
974
00:27:33,100 --> 00:27:36,100
We get them transferred
over and then Florrie is attaching
975
00:27:31,460 --> 00:27:33,100
So, stands are done.
976
00:27:26,980 --> 00:27:31,460
That's one and a half a minute.
It is that. Right.
977
00:27:24,140 --> 00:27:26,980
90. 9-0?
9-0.
978
00:27:20,300 --> 00:27:24,140
Joyce can make 90 of these
stands in an hour. 90?
979
00:27:17,780 --> 00:27:20,300
How many does Joyce make in an hour?
980
00:27:13,580 --> 00:27:16,220
All right, and stitching
them up at the end.
981
00:27:11,180 --> 00:27:13,580
of a metal funnel?
Yes.
982
00:27:36,100 --> 00:27:38,180
a front stand onto
the front of your coat.
983
00:27:05,860 --> 00:27:08,140
That does not look simple.
No, it's not.
984
00:27:04,060 --> 00:27:05,860
Yes.
985
00:27:00,580 --> 00:27:04,060
Is that the stand there
that's being made?
986
00:26:56,340 --> 00:27:00,580
protecting the zip
and keeping out draughts.
987
00:26:53,380 --> 00:26:56,340
The stand runs down
the centre of the jacket,
988
00:26:51,660 --> 00:26:53,380
but most important pieces.
989
00:26:49,420 --> 00:26:51,660
We're starting with
one of the smallest
990
00:26:47,220 --> 00:26:49,420
This is one of the parts
that you cut out.
991
00:28:04,580 --> 00:28:05,660
Nice to meet you.
992
00:28:18,340 --> 00:28:20,660
How would we know if it's authentic?
993
00:28:17,060 --> 00:28:18,340
Me neither.
994
00:28:15,140 --> 00:28:17,060
Well, I've never touched one.
I wouldn't know.
995
00:28:13,540 --> 00:28:15,140
Is that what a mole is going to...
996
00:28:12,140 --> 00:28:13,540
Have a go.
997
00:28:10,140 --> 00:28:12,140
Have you ever touched a mole?
No.
998
00:28:08,020 --> 00:28:10,140
of the jacket.
Moleskin?
999
00:28:05,660 --> 00:28:08,020
This is where we put the moleskin
handwarmers into the front
1000
00:23:24,660 --> 00:23:26,700
Are you Gary?
1001
00:28:02,940 --> 00:28:04,580
This is Kerry.
Hello, Kerry.
1002
00:28:00,940 --> 00:28:02,940
Hello.
Hiya..
1003
00:27:55,380 --> 00:27:58,140
specially designed
for frozen fingers.
1004
00:27:52,980 --> 00:27:55,380
..where they add two handwarmers,
1005
00:27:48,340 --> 00:27:51,100
before it's passed
onto the next station...
1006
00:27:44,060 --> 00:27:48,340
It takes 30 seconds to sew
the stand onto the front panel,
1007
00:27:39,980 --> 00:27:41,020
Yes!
1008
00:27:38,180 --> 00:27:39,980
Is that a stand and deliver?
1009
00:17:45,660 --> 00:17:50,940
to create enough fabric
for 1,666 waxed coats.
1010
00:18:22,220 --> 00:18:26,260
But in fact, the history
of this particular fashion item
1011
00:18:19,580 --> 00:18:22,220
and open countryside.
1012
00:18:15,780 --> 00:18:19,580
that springs to mind is muddy boots
and cocker spaniels
1013
00:18:12,740 --> 00:18:15,780
Often, when you think of
wax jackets, the first image
1014
00:18:05,540 --> 00:18:07,180
Ruth went to find out.
1015
00:18:00,740 --> 00:18:05,540
But where did the idea of smearing
a jacket with wax come from?
1016
00:17:56,220 --> 00:17:59,660
before sending it
to our jacket factory.
1017
00:17:50,940 --> 00:17:56,220
They roll it into shorter lengths,
and let the colour fully mature,
1018
00:18:26,260 --> 00:18:28,660
is a far fishier tale.
1019
00:17:42,780 --> 00:17:45,660
It's taken over 20 hours
of production,
1020
00:17:39,540 --> 00:17:41,580
and that's where we've ended up.
1021
00:17:36,420 --> 00:17:39,540
That's the shade we started
with before waxing,
1022
00:17:34,660 --> 00:17:36,420
and it starts to look granite.
1023
00:17:32,020 --> 00:17:34,660
The more you stare at this,
the less green it looks
1024
00:17:22,100 --> 00:17:27,260
Our whole batch of cotton runs
through in just two hours.
1025
00:17:17,620 --> 00:17:20,060
Can I see it in its finished state?
Come on, let's go.
1026
00:17:14,980 --> 00:17:17,620
I'm surprised when people lean
on the wall, they don't slip off.
1027
00:18:55,300 --> 00:18:59,780
Well, in the 15th century,
fishermen here who were trawling
1028
00:19:23,620 --> 00:19:26,380
And I suppose if you've got
waterproof sailcloth hanging around,
1029
00:19:18,460 --> 00:19:23,620
And then they used that to fashion
capes and hats for themselves.
1030
00:19:15,540 --> 00:19:18,460
to make sure that
it becomes waterproof.
1031
00:19:10,580 --> 00:19:15,540
They would have used fish oils,
grease or tar, whatever was at hand
1032
00:19:09,340 --> 00:19:10,580
It slows them down.
1033
00:19:07,100 --> 00:19:09,340
Yes, and when it gets waterlogged...
It slows them down?
1034
00:19:03,940 --> 00:19:07,100
So, I mean, sailcloth, we're talking
about this sort of stuff here?
1035
00:18:59,780 --> 00:19:03,940
the harsh seas were
waterproofing their sailcloth.
1036
00:17:13,540 --> 00:17:14,980
That's quite incredible.
1037
00:18:53,540 --> 00:18:55,300
and wax jackets?
1038
00:18:49,620 --> 00:18:53,540
What on earth is the connection
then between fishing boats
1039
00:18:46,660 --> 00:18:49,620
..to meet fashion historian
Dr Jane Tynan.
1040
00:18:44,540 --> 00:18:46,660
Can I come aboard?
Yes, you can.
1041
00:18:43,100 --> 00:18:44,540
Hello!
1042
00:18:39,860 --> 00:18:43,100
I've come to the historic
harbour of Cellardyke...
1043
00:18:34,380 --> 00:18:36,620
off the east coast of Scotland.
1044
00:18:32,060 --> 00:18:34,380
The story of this garment
starts off in the cold waters
1045
00:15:55,580 --> 00:15:58,060
Is that enough to melt it
and use it?
1046
00:16:19,700 --> 00:16:21,740
A paraffin wax.
Like your candle wax.
1047
00:16:18,300 --> 00:16:19,700
type chemical.
1048
00:16:13,220 --> 00:16:18,300
We've got a petroleum jelly,
so petroleum jelly is like lip balm
1049
00:16:11,140 --> 00:16:13,220
It's a combination of
three compounds.
1050
00:16:09,460 --> 00:16:11,140
What wax is it?
1051
00:16:04,020 --> 00:16:09,460
Enough to cover all
2,500 metres of our cotton.
1052
00:16:00,500 --> 00:16:04,020
In here, there's around
1,900 litres.
1053
00:15:58,060 --> 00:16:00,500
Yes, it allows it
to be applied easier.
1054
00:16:21,740 --> 00:16:23,500
Then a refined oil.
1055
00:15:52,620 --> 00:15:55,580
So we hold to the wax in here
about 95 degrees centigrade.
1056
00:15:50,500 --> 00:15:52,620
It looks like the chip shop.
It does!
1057
00:15:48,780 --> 00:15:50,500
A deep fat fryer.
It's a bit like that.
1058
00:15:47,020 --> 00:15:48,780
Do you know what that
actually reminds me of?
1059
00:15:44,780 --> 00:15:47,020
You haven't got a little Nessie
hiding in there, have you?
1060
00:15:43,340 --> 00:15:44,780
Is there something in there?
1061
00:15:40,660 --> 00:15:41,940
This is it.
1062
00:15:38,460 --> 00:15:40,660
with a tank of liquid wax.
1063
00:16:48,020 --> 00:16:50,980
That's beginning to look like
the jacket? Yeah, it is, yeah.
1064
00:17:12,140 --> 00:17:13,540
of the weave.
1065
00:17:08,940 --> 00:17:12,140
Well, it's actually a combination
of the wax and the tightness
1066
00:17:06,420 --> 00:17:08,940
And is that what keeps the rain out?
1067
00:17:04,220 --> 00:17:06,420
Yeah. Is your wax?
That's correct, yeah.
1068
00:17:00,780 --> 00:17:04,220
So a third of the jacket is wax?
1069
00:16:57,660 --> 00:17:00,780
of wax over that.
Really? Yeah.
1070
00:16:54,380 --> 00:16:57,660
Yeah, so that's 200 gram cotton,
and we're adding about 100g
1071
00:16:50,980 --> 00:16:54,380
Do you know how much wax
has gone on to that cotton?
1072
00:19:26,380 --> 00:19:28,420
it would make enormous sense?
Yeah.
1073
00:16:45,940 --> 00:16:48,020
OK, now that is certainly
the right colour.
1074
00:16:44,580 --> 00:16:45,940
Wow!
1075
00:16:42,020 --> 00:16:44,580
So that's just come out
of the wax bath.
1076
00:16:35,580 --> 00:16:39,660
And the cotton is dunked in,
just once, for three seconds.
1077
00:16:32,300 --> 00:16:35,580
The hot oily wax
is pumped into a bath.
1078
00:16:30,300 --> 00:16:32,300
of the finished jacket.
1079
00:16:26,220 --> 00:16:30,300
It's a blend designed to maximise
the water resistance and strength
1080
00:16:23,500 --> 00:16:26,220
Refined oil like
you put in your car? Yeah.
1081
00:21:46,540 --> 00:21:47,980
Oh, yeah!
1082
00:22:10,940 --> 00:22:12,780
that we think of today.
1083
00:22:08,940 --> 00:22:10,940
Yeah, this is more
like the wax jacket
1084
00:22:06,780 --> 00:22:08,940
Now this looks
even more modern to me.
1085
00:22:01,820 --> 00:22:05,620
It was prone to cracking
and turned yellow in the sun.
1086
00:21:58,300 --> 00:22:00,780
However, linseed oil
wasn't without drawbacks.
1087
00:21:56,220 --> 00:21:58,300
Very much, yeah.
1088
00:21:51,420 --> 00:21:56,220
This is very much the gent out
in the countryside feel, isn't it?
1089
00:21:47,980 --> 00:21:49,860
How does it feel?
It's good!
1090
00:22:12,780 --> 00:22:16,420
It's a darker colour,
because instead of the linseed oil,
1091
00:21:42,100 --> 00:21:43,940
I can't help myself!
1092
00:21:40,060 --> 00:21:42,100
Beautiful, yeah.
Beautifully lined.
1093
00:21:38,060 --> 00:21:40,060
This is, look at that
lovely corduroy collar.
1094
00:21:34,980 --> 00:21:38,060
I mean, this isn't rough
workman's garment, is it? No.
1095
00:21:32,500 --> 00:21:34,980
It's clearly made with
a different market in mind.
1096
00:21:28,900 --> 00:21:32,500
It is, yes, and it's still
being infused with linseed oil.
1097
00:21:27,060 --> 00:21:28,900
OK, so it's still cotton.
1098
00:21:23,580 --> 00:21:27,060
by usually men for leisure pursuits.
1099
00:22:35,180 --> 00:22:37,620
than a Scottish fisherman,
1100
00:23:20,460 --> 00:23:24,660
..where Gary York's been cutting
his cloth for 27 years.
1101
00:23:14,220 --> 00:23:16,260
My first stop is the cutting room...
1102
00:23:06,780 --> 00:23:09,380
I'm helping to make one
from scratch.
1103
00:22:57,860 --> 00:23:00,300
ready to be turned into jackets.
1104
00:22:54,740 --> 00:22:57,860
a delivery of waxed cotton
has just arrived,
1105
00:22:51,940 --> 00:22:54,740
At the factory in South Shields,
1106
00:22:41,260 --> 00:22:45,660
And then it ends up being worn
by fashionable, urban people.
1107
00:22:37,620 --> 00:22:41,260
in his work gear,
covered in fish scales.
1108
00:21:19,460 --> 00:21:23,580
it's moving away from the fishing
industry, and we find it used
1109
00:22:32,700 --> 00:22:35,180
I mean, you can't get
much more down-to-earth
1110
00:22:30,740 --> 00:22:32,700
It's rather funny, isn't it, really?
1111
00:22:26,980 --> 00:22:30,740
So essentially, then,
this is the modern wax jacket?
1112
00:22:24,740 --> 00:22:26,980
This is from around 1930.
1113
00:22:22,900 --> 00:22:24,740
So when does this one date from?
1114
00:22:21,660 --> 00:22:22,900
in terms of technology.
1115
00:22:18,460 --> 00:22:21,660
So this is much more pliable,
this is an improvement
1116
00:22:16,420 --> 00:22:18,460
it's infused with paraffin.
1117
00:19:56,940 --> 00:20:00,300
than the old fish oil,
and much less odour.
1118
00:20:27,340 --> 00:20:28,740
I love it, I do love it.
1119
00:20:25,100 --> 00:20:27,340
They smell like linseed oil.
1120
00:20:22,060 --> 00:20:25,100
what the fishermen might have worn
in the late 19th century.
1121
00:20:19,100 --> 00:20:22,060
Well, we've got some
replica oilskins here,
1122
00:20:16,180 --> 00:20:19,100
What on earth are these
lovely things then, Richard?
1123
00:20:11,820 --> 00:20:16,180
And local historian Richard Wemyss
has some examples to show us.
1124
00:20:05,820 --> 00:20:08,740
water-resistant clothes
known as oilskins.
1125
00:20:02,580 --> 00:20:05,820
By the 1850s, old cotton sails
were being turned into
1126
00:20:28,740 --> 00:20:31,980
So this is cotton, with the linseed?
Yes, that's right.
1127
00:19:55,220 --> 00:19:56,940
which was much more efficient
1128
00:19:52,460 --> 00:19:55,220
They would have treated it
with linseed oil at the time
1129
00:19:48,940 --> 00:19:52,460
And the cotton was
much better for that.
1130
00:19:46,020 --> 00:19:48,940
They would have needed
to move very, very quickly.
1131
00:19:40,620 --> 00:19:43,940
on the famous 19th-century
tea clippers.
1132
00:19:37,700 --> 00:19:40,620
Problems that were solved
when cotton sails were introduced
1133
00:19:35,100 --> 00:19:37,700
were smelly and heavy.
1134
00:19:30,980 --> 00:19:35,100
But this early sailcloth was linen
and the garments made from it
1135
00:20:52,860 --> 00:20:54,980
sort of make do and mend
and using scraps of sail,
1136
00:21:15,820 --> 00:21:19,460
We're still dealing with
an oilskin, but by this time,
1137
00:21:13,140 --> 00:21:15,820
This is the Findlay Cape
from around 1910.
1138
00:21:11,620 --> 00:21:13,140
It is.
1139
00:21:08,580 --> 00:21:11,620
So what have we got here?
This looks remarkably modern to me.
1140
00:21:04,500 --> 00:21:08,580
And this seafaring staple
made its way ashore.
1141
00:21:00,860 --> 00:21:04,500
canny entrepreneurs spotted
an exciting new market.
1142
00:20:58,540 --> 00:21:00,860
By the beginning
of the 20th century,
1143
00:20:54,980 --> 00:20:57,180
into a complete industry.
Yes.
1144
00:00:03,500 --> 00:00:06,540
Famously, we Brits are
obsessed by the weather.
1145
00:20:50,420 --> 00:20:52,860
If we think of some of
the very early fishermen,
1146
00:20:48,660 --> 00:20:50,420
That's quite a big
difference isn't it?
1147
00:20:46,660 --> 00:20:48,660
in the late 19th century.
1148
00:20:44,580 --> 00:20:46,660
of the fisherman's oilskins a year
1149
00:20:42,100 --> 00:20:44,580
One of the factories was producing
at least 10,000 sets
1150
00:20:39,020 --> 00:20:42,100
so it was a significant
industry for a very small town.
1151
00:20:36,580 --> 00:20:39,020
There were five oil skin
factories in the town here
1152
00:20:33,180 --> 00:20:36,580
Oil skin production was
big business in Cellardyke.
90922
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