All language subtitles for [English (auto-generated)] Making a Primitive Yew Bow for primitive archery hunting using stone tools. Otzi the Iceman bow. [DownSub.com]
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throughout history wood from the yew
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tree has been in preferred material for
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making bows in part one of this video
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series I showed you how to harvest a yew
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tree using a 5,000 year old style copper
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axe this tree was cut in the spring when
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the sap is flowing and the bark peels
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easily from the log this smooth layer
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under the bark will become the back of
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our bow
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great care should be taken to protect
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the single smooth layer as any damage
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from cuts or nicks in the back of the
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bow would compromise the integrity of
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the wood and could cause the bow to
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break
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after letting the wood season for over a
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year I was ready to begin work on our
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bow I began by splitting the log along
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its natural grain using wooden wedges
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[Music]
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once the log was split I began shaping a
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bow stave using my copper axe a 5000
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year old yew bow state was found high in
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the Italian Alps near the frozen body of
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Otzi the Iceman his bow stave had
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similar chop marks in the belly of the
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bow from his copper axe although it is
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likely that he shaped his bow stave why
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the wood was still green and unseasoned
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the basic design of the longbow I will
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be making will be thicker in the handle
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and gradually taper to a thinner
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diameter near the NOx as you form your
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bow stay if you begin to see the unique
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characteristics of you wood that makes
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it ideal for making a bow the darker
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heartwood is able to withstand the
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compression forces and the lighter SAP
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wood is able to withstand the tension
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forces that are put on it as an arrow is
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drawn when shaping the bow stay Phi
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begin by marking the center of the bow
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in the area where the handle will be
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I then begin to shape the bow using
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stone tools for this bow I will be using
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plates of obsidian which are incredibly
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sharp we've become dull very quickly
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these obsidian plates can be used as a
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draw knife to shave down the wood I
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usually get about 5 minutes of use out
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of each flake before it becomes too dull
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and needs to be replaced another useful
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stone tool to have on hand is a piece of
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pumice or sandstone obsidian draw knives
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work best on a flat surface so as bumps
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and the irregularities develop an
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abrasive stone can be used to return the
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wood to a smooth surface as you remove
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excess wood the basic form of the bow
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begins to take shape it is at this point
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that you want to see how the limbs are
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bending this process is called floor
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tailoring and it lets you see what areas
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of the limps are still too thick and
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need to have wood removed and it lets
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you see how each limb is bending in
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proportion to each other once the limbs
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of the bow are bending evenly is time to
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form the knocks to fit the bowstring the
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most simple way to do this is to cut two
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grooves into the wood at the end of the
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bow another method that has been used
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for hundreds of years is to glue horn
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knocks on the tip of the bow for my
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hunting bows I like to form the knocks
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out of the teeth of a large carnivore
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such as a bear or cougar I begin by
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shaving down the tip of the bow staves
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so that the hollow mountain lion tooth
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knock will easily fit on the end
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it is also at this time that I cut
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grooves into the wood to accommodate the
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bowstring
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to secure the tooth knocks to the bow I
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use a natural birch tar glue this is the
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same natural glue that would see the
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IceMen used more than 5000 years ago to
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glue his fletchings onto his arrow
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once the glue has cooled and hardened I
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further secure the NOx to the bow by
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using back sinew from a deer
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these thin strips of sinew must first be
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soaked in warm water or chewed on in
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your mouth until they become soft and
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pliable these wet pieces of sinew can
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then be wrapped around the tooth knocks
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the area where the bowstring will go and
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directly below the docks to help
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reinforce the tip of the bow as the
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sinew dries it will shrink forming a
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tight layer of tendon that will help
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protect the bow and the tooth from
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splitting and cracking my final step is
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to spread a layer of warm hai glue on
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the sinew to help secure it as it dries
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you
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now that the knocks are complete we are
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ready to string the bow and start the
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final tillering process
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the most important part of this step is
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to make sure that each limb of the bow
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is bending evenly
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you can see here that the lower limb is
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bending more than the upper limb and
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that the tips of the bow are still very
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stiff
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to correct this problem I shave down the
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thicker areas on the upper limb and
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lightly shave down the tips of the bow
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well it's still not perfect yet you can
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see that the upper and lower limb are
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bending much more evenly with each other
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after some final fine-tuning adjustments
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we are ready to put the finish on the
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bow I do this by using a plant called a
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scour rush which is in the horsetail
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family this primitive plant contains
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silica in it cell walls which allows it
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to be used as a fine grit sandpaper to
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put a smooth finish on our bow the final
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step is to waterproof the wood using
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natural oils I like to do this by
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rubbing the entire bow with chunks of
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deer fat now our bow is ready to shoot
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in all kinds of weather
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this Finnish bow shoots incredibly well
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and pulls about 75 pounds and draw
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weight you would self longboats have
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been used by skilled archers for
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thousands of years it is incredibly
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satisfying to learn how to develop the
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skills to make and shoot the simple
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deadly primitive weapon I encourage
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anyone to take on the challenge of
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hunting with a primitive bow and arrow
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to learn more about making new self
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boasts I suggest you read the first
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volume of the traditional bowyers bible
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the section on you would Bose was
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authored by John Strunk who is a master
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Bowyer and a good friend of mine he
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offers one-on-one classes on how to make
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bows cells you would staves and finish
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bows at the email address listed above
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another great place to buy primitive
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bows and staves is from a fellow organ
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bowyer named Carson Brown
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he sells primitive archery supplies on
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his website Eko archery comm
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you11402
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