All language subtitles for [Chinese Traditional] 23 歲傳奇攀岩者命殞酋長岩：這面 900 公尺垂壁的生存遊戲規則是什麼？｜El Capitan _ 徒手自由攀岩 _ Free solo _ 重製版 [DownSub.com]
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1
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2025年10月1日
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23歲的美國登山者巴林．米勒
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在返程下降時墜落身亡
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他獨自以援助攀登的方式登頂了
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該岩壁東南側的一條高難度路線
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卻在繩降階段「跑出繩端」
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他或許沒有在繩端繫上止動結
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墜亡畫面被直播到社交平台
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悲劇冷酷地闖入成千上萬人的視野
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而要真正理解這場死亡
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我們必須要知道這面令無數攀登者
12
00:00:24,500 --> 00:00:27,400
可望而不可及的岩壁究竟是怎樣的存在
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00:00:27,666 --> 00:00:28,733
它不只是一座山
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00:00:28,733 --> 00:00:32,033
而是一面從谷底直拔近九百公尺的花崗岩牆
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它擁有一個響亮的名字
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酋長岩
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今天
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我們將依序以援助攀登、自由攀
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以及徒手攀岩的視角
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一層層拆解這面牆的難度與代價
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你準備好了嗎
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我們開始
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酋長岩
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不是一座普通的山
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這是一面自谷底拔起
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近一千公尺高的花崗岩巨牆
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幾乎垂直的岩壁沒有天然台階
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約914公尺的垂直高度
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使它成為世界上最大的單體花崗岩
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它的垂壁之上既書寫滿人類極限的勝利
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也記錄過無數生命的墜落
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坐落於美國加州優勝美地峽谷的酋長岩
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形成於大約一億年前
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淺色、粗粒的「花崗岩」構成了整面峭壁的主體
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在較高的位置
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還疊置著一次獨立的岩漿侵入
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被稱為塔夫特花崗岩的岩體
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而在北美壁一帶
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你還能看到深色的閃長岩脈
40
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如同血管般切穿岩石
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冰川在漫長歲月裡雕刻出整個優勝美地峽谷
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特別是距今約一百三十萬年至一百萬年前的
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舍溫冰期被認為主導了這面巨牆的塑形
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由於這塊花崗岩節理稀少、整體性強
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冰川對它「無處下手」
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才保留了今天這幅近乎垂直的牆面
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而在岩體持續的內應力與卸荷膨脹之下
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「德州岩片」等巨大的剝離岩板
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仍在緩慢地從母岩中掙脫
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「El Capitan」 酋長岩 一名
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最早見於1851年歐裔武裝馬里波薩民兵的記錄
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它被視為對米沃克語
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「Tutokanula」的西語化轉寫
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常譯作「石中酋長」或「岩石酋長」
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這一解釋源自當時隨隊的
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醫生兼探險者拉法葉．邦內爾（Lafayette Bunnell）的記述
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但他本人也承認詞源並不確定
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而這面牆
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自誕生之初
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便未曾想過在億萬年後的今天
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會與人類的意志力糾纏在一起
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1958年秋天
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三個人讓人類的名字第一次「搬進」了這面牆
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他們是來自美國的沃倫．哈丁
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韋恩．梅里與喬治．惠特莫爾
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他們選擇了酋長岩最筆直、
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最不可思議的一條線
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鼻子線（The Nose）
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這個名字源自酋長岩
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那條最顯眼的「前鋒稜」外形
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從山谷仰望
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整塊岩壁中央那道突出的圓弧稜線
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就像「酋長臉上的鼻子」
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那一年
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沒有人知道這是否做得到
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因為當時在九百公尺、
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幾乎沒有天然台階的花崗岩上
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唯一可行的，就是把鋼鐵釘進岩石
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用援助攀登的方式
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一公分一公分往上逼近
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援助攀登是指攀登者以器材承載身體重量來上升
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如利用懸掛的梯帶
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透過腳踩或手抓向上移動
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這不是一場「一次完成」的攻頂
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而是一場對重力的圍攻戰
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914 公尺，意味著相當於
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如今世界最高建築 杜拜塔的垂直高度
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從 1957 年到 1958 年
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00:03:01,300 --> 00:03:03,900
他們分段上攀、反覆撤回、再上攀
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把繩索固定在牆上
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建立起「營地＋繩距＋補給」的縱深體系
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令人驚嘆的是
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這次開創性的壯舉
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共計 47 天的實際攀登時間
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橫跨 18 個月的耐心與意志
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在今天看來理所當然的裝備
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當時幾乎都不存在
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沒有現代吊艙
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他們只能在小平台或簡陋吊床裡熬過夜晚
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沒有可調節的機械塞件
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能依靠的仍是手錘與岩釘
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膨脹螺栓與鋼梯
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遇到光滑無裂的岩面
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遇到橫移的斜面
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就用張力橫渡
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把身體用力「擺」到下一段裂縫
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他們所經歷的路線地標
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一個個句點從此寫進酋長岩空白的攀登史
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例如名為「爐腿」的連續裂縫像一把把薄刃
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要求指節與足尖在毫米之間分配重量
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沿途的傻瓜塔與酋長塔
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成為攀登者能喘口氣的島嶼
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越過大屋簷的陰影
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身體在空無的岩腹下擺盪
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唯有受力的岩釘傳來的金屬聲告訴你
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別怕，你還在牆上
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補給用繩索吊運
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水、食物、鐵釘、繩索、吊床
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每多帶一公斤
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就意味著下一段攀登將更慢、更累、更危險
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最後的總攻從 11 月初開始
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11 月 12 日清晨
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當沃倫．哈丁在頂緣打下最後一枚螺栓
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拴上繩圈
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整個隊伍終於在日出前跨上台地
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這是人類第一次
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真正把一面直上直下的花崗岩巨牆
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變成可以被「攀登」
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甚至被人類「居住」的地形
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事後統計
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這次首登在光滑地帶打入
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約一百餘枚膨脹螺栓
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外加成百上千次的岩釘敲擊與橫渡試探
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有人說這是「暴力」
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用鋼鐵強行讓自然讓步
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也有人說這是「創造」
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在原本不存在的地方
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建起了一條通往頂端的路
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標準從那一刻被改寫
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酋長岩不再只是被人瞻仰的景觀
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它成為人類靠肉體與地球重力長期對話的場域
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從此以後
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當攀登者仰望這面牆
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他們不再問「能不能」
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而是問，用什麼方式
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付出多大的代價
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才能再做出新的突破
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1961 年
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薩拉泰壁
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羅亞爾．羅賓斯、湯姆．弗洛斯特與查克．普拉特
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選擇沿著西南壁最連續的裂縫系統上攀
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此次他們想做出改變
153
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其原則簡單而苛刻
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盡量不鑽膨脹螺栓
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能用天然裂縫就不用金屬「創口」
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技術上，他們大量使用原始的楔形木樁
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與岩釘在寬窄不一的裂縫中建立掛點
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必要時進行張力橫渡
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把身體「擺」過光滑段
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這是酋長岩第一次
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以美學與倫理定義一條路線
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追隨岩石本身
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而不是用五金把路「釘」出來
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此線現今自由版本難度達 5.13 級
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在 1961 年
166
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它象徵的是攀岩界另一種難
167
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那就是「克制」
168
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此次的技術難點
169
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具體在哪裡
170
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薩拉泰壁的連續裂縫有時窄到
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可容整個手掌側向進入
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有時只有指節能嵌入
173
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攀登者要在指鎖與手背鎖之間切換
174
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足尖踩在僅容鞋邊的岩粒上
175
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讓身體像齒輪卡進裂縫
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若裂縫突然「張」大成寬縫
177
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則必須用前臂與膝蓋楔入抵抗滑落
178
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動作看似笨拙，體力消耗巨大
179
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當裂縫「消失」成光滑花崗岩板
180
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唯一選項是摩擦踩點
181
00:06:02,866 --> 00:06:05,300
這需要攀登者把鞋底像橡皮擦一樣
182
00:06:05,300 --> 00:06:06,466
「貼」在岩面上
183
00:06:06,500 --> 00:06:09,200
僅靠摩擦實現接近垂面的站立
184
00:06:09,200 --> 00:06:11,366
每一步都在極限的邊緣遊走
185
00:06:11,366 --> 00:06:13,566
而這次攀登耗時約九天半
186
00:06:14,733 --> 00:06:15,533
1970 年
187
00:06:15,533 --> 00:06:16,533
曙光之牆
188
00:06:16,600 --> 00:06:19,566
沃倫．哈丁與迪恩．考德威爾轉向東南壁
189
00:06:19,566 --> 00:06:22,366
這是最缺裂縫、最缺立足點的那面牆
190
00:06:22,666 --> 00:06:23,833
耗時 27 天
191
00:06:23,866 --> 00:06:25,966
兩人在冬季低溫與糧水匱乏中
192
00:06:25,966 --> 00:06:28,400
以圍攻式援助攀登打通路線
193
00:06:28,400 --> 00:06:30,866
即依靠援助攀登技術逐點上升
194
00:06:31,200 --> 00:06:34,100
並採用多日／多階段固定繩路、壁上營地
195
00:06:34,100 --> 00:06:35,833
與補給往返的「圍城」戰術
196
00:06:35,933 --> 00:06:37,933
逐步把整面牆「佔領」到頂
197
00:06:38,100 --> 00:06:40,033
這種攀登方式技術純度不高
198
00:06:40,066 --> 00:06:42,600
卻把人類能否「居住」在一面牆上的問題
199
00:06:42,700 --> 00:06:44,133
再次推到了現實
200
00:06:44,200 --> 00:06:46,766
此線也引發了後來著名的「螺栓之爭」
201
00:06:46,800 --> 00:06:49,566
人們討論應不應該用如此多的永久性金屬
202
00:06:49,566 --> 00:06:50,266
打開這面牆
203
00:06:50,266 --> 00:06:52,100
但不可否認，曙光之牆這次攀登
204
00:06:52,100 --> 00:06:54,466
讓東南壁也不再是地圖上的空白
205
00:06:54,966 --> 00:06:56,766
在援助攀登中，風險在哪裡
206
00:06:56,766 --> 00:06:57,500
想像一下
207
00:06:57,500 --> 00:06:58,300
你從錨點離開
208
00:06:58,300 --> 00:07:00,266
還沒有打入第一個可靠掛點
209
00:07:00,300 --> 00:07:01,300
此時一旦失足
210
00:07:01,300 --> 00:07:03,566
就會發生兩倍繩長落距的墜落
211
00:07:03,566 --> 00:07:06,466
直接把衝擊力打在錨點與確保者身上
212
00:07:06,700 --> 00:07:07,933
就算順利前進
213
00:07:07,933 --> 00:07:10,566
若連續的微弱掛點因受力方向不佳
214
00:07:10,566 --> 00:07:13,133
而逐一脫落，則會產生「拉鍊效應」
215
00:07:13,133 --> 00:07:15,566
下面的掛點像拉鍊被一個個「抽開」
216
00:07:15,700 --> 00:07:17,400
墜落距離瞬間翻倍
217
00:07:17,400 --> 00:07:19,433
這些往往都是援助攀登特有的
218
00:07:19,466 --> 00:07:20,933
肉眼看不到的風暴
219
00:07:21,200 --> 00:07:22,100
1978 年
220
00:07:22,100 --> 00:07:23,133
夢之海路線
221
00:07:23,133 --> 00:07:26,766
吉姆．布里奇韋爾、戴爾．巴德與戴夫．迪格爾曼三人
222
00:07:26,766 --> 00:07:28,833
將援助攀登推向了極限
223
00:07:29,266 --> 00:07:31,733
這條線以長距離的微掛點串聯著稱
224
00:07:31,800 --> 00:07:34,366
銅頭被用錘子「揉」進砂粒般細小的裂縫
225
00:07:34,366 --> 00:07:35,600
掛鉤只勾住指甲厚度的岩唇
226
00:07:35,600 --> 00:07:37,266
其間或以小鉚釘與稀少螺栓連接
227
00:07:37,333 --> 00:07:39,433
長時間站在「不該成立」的支點上
228
00:07:39,466 --> 00:07:42,000
隔著整條繩距望向空無一物的下方
229
00:07:42,000 --> 00:07:45,133
任何一個動作都可能把這個微小的系統打碎
230
00:07:45,266 --> 00:07:46,166
技術層面上
231
00:07:46,166 --> 00:07:48,266
隊伍需要極高階的受力判讀
232
00:07:48,300 --> 00:07:49,933
銅頭要敲到足以承重
233
00:07:49,933 --> 00:07:51,666
又不能把裂縫撐爆
234
00:07:51,800 --> 00:07:54,300
該「橫渡」時要下放保護擺盪中的器材
235
00:07:54,300 --> 00:07:55,633
確保其不被剪斷
236
00:07:55,666 --> 00:07:58,500
該「拖運」時要把器材袋從岩角下「抬」過去
237
00:07:58,500 --> 00:08:00,966
避免鞭擊把整段系統拖離岩面
238
00:08:01,200 --> 00:08:03,166
夢之海路線的技術難度意味著
239
00:08:03,166 --> 00:08:03,966
一旦出錯
240
00:08:03,966 --> 00:08:06,033
可能是「長距離無保護」的墜落
241
00:08:06,166 --> 00:08:08,433
這裡的墜落常常伴隨著擺盪與碰撞
242
00:08:08,466 --> 00:08:10,333
撞到岩角、撞到器材袋
243
00:08:10,333 --> 00:08:12,400
或把下方的同伴拽離站位
244
00:08:12,533 --> 00:08:13,266
同一時期
245
00:08:13,266 --> 00:08:15,366
器材革命也在牆外發生
246
00:08:15,400 --> 00:08:16,600
自六〇年代末起
247
00:08:16,600 --> 00:08:19,166
攀登者開始用鐵路螺帽 機械螺母
248
00:08:19,166 --> 00:08:20,933
作為可楔入裂縫的保護裝置
249
00:08:21,066 --> 00:08:23,500
很快，專用的楔形塞與六角塞問世
250
00:08:23,500 --> 00:08:26,366
不打永久岩釘的「乾淨攀登」成為共識
251
00:08:26,533 --> 00:08:27,766
使用可移除器材
252
00:08:27,766 --> 00:08:29,733
就不必再反覆敲打岩釘
253
00:08:30,033 --> 00:08:30,800
七〇年代末
254
00:08:30,800 --> 00:08:34,266
傳奇攀登者雷．賈丁發明了彈簧凸輪裝置
255
00:08:34,666 --> 00:08:36,866
可在不同寬度的裂縫中瞬間「張開」
256
00:08:36,933 --> 00:08:38,733
建立強而可靠的保護點
257
00:08:38,933 --> 00:08:41,933
這意味著攀登者可以更自由地追隨天然裂縫
258
00:08:41,933 --> 00:08:43,966
而不是在岩面上種滿金屬
259
00:08:44,000 --> 00:08:45,600
倫理與技術的雙輪推動
260
00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:47,633
讓下一個問題水落石出
261
00:08:47,866 --> 00:08:49,333
「如果保護可以移除
262
00:08:49,333 --> 00:08:52,000
那麼能不能不用器材把人往上『拉』
263
00:08:52,066 --> 00:08:54,266
只用身體對抗重力通過這面牆？
264
00:08:54,800 --> 00:08:56,466
自由攀登給出了答案
265
00:08:56,500 --> 00:08:57,866
這是一條清晰的規則
266
00:08:58,166 --> 00:08:59,633
器材只能用來「防墜」
267
00:08:59,666 --> 00:09:01,600
不允許把身體向上「拉升」
268
00:09:01,933 --> 00:09:02,966
所有上升動作
269
00:09:02,966 --> 00:09:05,433
只能透過手的摩擦 指節的鎖定
270
00:09:05,600 --> 00:09:07,366
腳尖在毫釐之間的精準踩點
271
00:09:07,366 --> 00:09:09,466
全都必須由身體獨立完成
272
00:09:09,733 --> 00:09:11,466
你甚至可以在失手時墜落
273
00:09:11,533 --> 00:09:13,033
也可以選擇重新嘗試
274
00:09:13,366 --> 00:09:16,533
但只要過程中有一個段落靠器材把你撐上去
275
00:09:16,533 --> 00:09:17,933
那就不算自由攀
276
00:09:18,133 --> 00:09:19,300
這與自由「單人」攀登
277
00:09:19,300 --> 00:09:21,833
也就是坊間所說的徒手攀登不同
278
00:09:21,966 --> 00:09:24,133
後者是沒有任何保護的獨攀
279
00:09:24,500 --> 00:09:26,100
自由攀登有繩、有保護
280
00:09:26,100 --> 00:09:28,533
只是禁止利用器材幫助上升
281
00:09:29,100 --> 00:09:29,966
1993 年
282
00:09:29,966 --> 00:09:31,166
琳恩．希爾那一句
283
00:09:31,166 --> 00:09:31,900
「這條線能行，夥計們！」
284
00:09:32,300 --> 00:09:33,933
把理論化為現實
285
00:09:34,100 --> 00:09:35,500
她在鼻子線上完成了
286
00:09:35,500 --> 00:09:37,833
人類史上第一次全線自由攀登
287
00:09:38,266 --> 00:09:39,066
對外行人來說
288
00:09:39,066 --> 00:09:40,333
這或許只是一句口號
289
00:09:40,766 --> 00:09:42,033
而對攀登者而言
290
00:09:42,066 --> 00:09:44,033
這是兩段惡名昭彰的技術難關
291
00:09:44,166 --> 00:09:45,800
被逐一破解的宣告
292
00:09:46,100 --> 00:09:47,200
首先是屋簷段
293
00:09:47,700 --> 00:09:49,200
難度 5.13b 級
294
00:09:49,500 --> 00:09:51,533
想像一片橫越的花崗岩屋簷
295
00:09:51,533 --> 00:09:54,266
裂縫向一側斜切，寬度逐步變窄
296
00:09:54,533 --> 00:09:57,300
攀登者必須在近乎水平的身體姿態下
297
00:09:57,300 --> 00:09:59,466
以拇指反鎖與指節鎖交替
298
00:09:59,700 --> 00:10:01,400
讓腳在岩面上摩擦踩點
299
00:10:01,400 --> 00:10:03,966
身體以斜張的核心力量維持貼壁
300
00:10:04,133 --> 00:10:04,966
每一次換手
301
00:10:04,966 --> 00:10:07,566
都要在摩擦與失衡之間取最小代價
302
00:10:07,566 --> 00:10:09,166
任何猶豫，都等於墜落
303
00:10:09,466 --> 00:10:10,566
另一段是變角
304
00:10:10,766 --> 00:10:12,666
難度 5.13a/b 級
305
00:10:12,966 --> 00:10:16,033
這段就像兩面交錯的牆在垂直方向「錯位」
306
00:10:16,100 --> 00:10:18,566
形成開角與關角交替的幾何結構
307
00:10:18,966 --> 00:10:20,133
裂縫時有時無
308
00:10:20,133 --> 00:10:21,466
手指無處可鎖
309
00:10:21,600 --> 00:10:23,366
這要求攀登者使用「對撐」
310
00:10:23,366 --> 00:10:25,600
即左右腳分別踩在兩面牆上
311
00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:27,566
以身體張力將自己「撐」起來
312
00:10:27,566 --> 00:10:28,833
同時用手掌貼壓在
313
00:10:28,866 --> 00:10:31,266
幾乎沒有抓點的牆面上進行微調
314
00:10:31,600 --> 00:10:33,433
這是平衡與幾何的考驗
315
00:10:33,466 --> 00:10:35,600
不是單靠力量就能解決的題目
316
00:10:35,933 --> 00:10:36,800
除了技術
317
00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:38,200
還有時間與策略
318
00:10:38,266 --> 00:10:39,900
自由攀並不是一次通關
319
00:10:39,900 --> 00:10:42,366
而是反覆嘗試 背下動作序列
320
00:10:42,366 --> 00:10:44,133
直到能在連續整條繩距內
321
00:10:44,133 --> 00:10:46,133
不依靠器材完成所有動作
322
00:10:46,133 --> 00:10:47,666
這被稱為「紅點積累」
323
00:10:47,733 --> 00:10:49,100
琳恩在 1994 年
324
00:10:49,100 --> 00:10:51,233
更將鼻子線做到「單日自由攀」
325
00:10:51,266 --> 00:10:54,700
把整條路線的正確動作、體能分配與保護節奏
326
00:10:54,700 --> 00:10:55,900
壓縮在一天之內完成
327
00:10:55,900 --> 00:10:56,333
這意味著
328
00:10:56,333 --> 00:10:58,033
她解決的不只是「能不能做」
329
00:10:58,066 --> 00:11:00,433
而是「能不能在疲勞與時間壓力下
330
00:11:00,466 --> 00:11:01,433
一次做對」
331
00:11:01,966 --> 00:11:05,033
從薩拉泰壁的克制到琳恩．希爾的自由宣言
332
00:11:05,100 --> 00:11:07,033
酋長岩把「怎麼上去」這個問題
333
00:11:07,166 --> 00:11:09,233
變成了「你選擇成為什麼樣的人」
334
00:11:09,266 --> 00:11:11,400
你可以帶著一桶金屬把牆釘滿
335
00:11:11,600 --> 00:11:14,666
也可以只帶上自己的身體與對岩石的尊重
336
00:11:14,933 --> 00:11:15,600
兩種路徑
337
00:11:15,600 --> 00:11:17,166
都會讓你看見恐懼
338
00:11:17,200 --> 00:11:19,000
只是看見它的方式不同
339
00:11:19,266 --> 00:11:20,233
接下來的年代
340
00:11:20,266 --> 00:11:22,666
這面牆還會見證更極端的答案
341
00:11:22,733 --> 00:11:24,400
用沒有任何保護的身體
342
00:11:24,400 --> 00:11:26,333
獨自穿越 900 公尺的空無
343
00:11:26,666 --> 00:11:29,600
這種攀登 繩索將失去它的任何意義
344
00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:30,400
自由單人攀
345
00:11:30,400 --> 00:11:32,433
也被稱為獨攀 徒手攀岩
346
00:11:32,700 --> 00:11:33,833
不用任何保護
347
00:11:33,866 --> 00:11:35,566
不給任何失誤留餘地
348
00:11:35,966 --> 00:11:37,000
酋長岩最終迎來了
349
00:11:37,000 --> 00:11:38,933
此種攀登的極限考驗者
350
00:11:39,333 --> 00:11:41,266
2017 年 6 月 3 日清晨
351
00:11:41,500 --> 00:11:42,766
亞歷克斯從谷底出發
352
00:11:42,766 --> 00:11:44,400
選擇了「自由騎士線」
353
00:11:44,400 --> 00:11:46,633
這是由胡貝爾兄弟於 1998 年
354
00:11:46,666 --> 00:11:49,533
自薩拉泰壁系統分化出的自由攀經典
355
00:11:49,800 --> 00:11:51,900
總高度約 900 公尺 三十餘段繩距
356
00:11:51,900 --> 00:11:53,300
評級 5.13a
357
00:11:53,300 --> 00:11:55,933
這一次亞歷克斯將不帶繩 不帶保護點
358
00:11:55,933 --> 00:11:56,866
不設備援
359
00:11:57,066 --> 00:11:58,766
僅憑一個人 一雙鞋 一袋粉
360
00:11:58,766 --> 00:12:00,800
首次把人類的膽量與準確度
361
00:12:00,800 --> 00:12:02,666
拉至惡名昭彰的臨界值
362
00:12:03,000 --> 00:12:04,900
但這一切並非即興的浪漫
363
00:12:04,900 --> 00:12:07,600
而是八年的籌劃 一年的密集排練
364
00:12:07,600 --> 00:12:09,000
以及登頂前近兩個月
365
00:12:09,000 --> 00:12:11,400
將每個動作練至可重現的正確性
366
00:12:11,400 --> 00:12:13,733
他在前一年反覆於繩索保護下
367
00:12:13,733 --> 00:12:16,000
以自由攀登訓練自由騎士線
368
00:12:16,000 --> 00:12:18,600
把每一段繩距的動作背成「肌肉記憶」
369
00:12:18,600 --> 00:12:21,066
用筆記詳細標註支點、摩擦與換手節拍
370
00:12:22,533 --> 00:12:23,833
並與夥伴在不同溫度
371
00:12:23,866 --> 00:12:26,033
不同濕度下測試摩擦係數
372
00:12:26,300 --> 00:12:28,233
在恐懼最易湧出的段落
373
00:12:28,300 --> 00:12:30,000
練到心跳不再打亂節奏
374
00:12:30,000 --> 00:12:32,633
直到所有動作能在腦中無縫播放
375
00:12:32,933 --> 00:12:35,133
自由騎士的險惡 具體在哪裡
376
00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:36,766
第一是前段板岩
377
00:12:36,766 --> 00:12:39,700
一連串光滑到「幾乎沒有支點」的花崗岩板
378
00:12:39,700 --> 00:12:41,466
是優勝美地的試金石
379
00:12:41,700 --> 00:12:43,633
5.11 等級的板岩在運動場上
380
00:12:43,666 --> 00:12:45,333
可能只是日常的熱身
381
00:12:45,466 --> 00:12:47,666
但在無繩的 300 公尺處便足以致命
382
00:12:47,866 --> 00:12:50,766
亞歷克斯以純摩擦踩點在斜面上「站立」
383
00:12:50,766 --> 00:12:53,800
每一步都只比滑落多出一點點摩擦
384
00:12:54,133 --> 00:12:55,466
第二 中段「怪獸寬縫」
385
00:12:55,933 --> 00:12:58,500
這段長而連續的寬裂縫評為 5.11
386
00:12:58,500 --> 00:13:00,166
卻是心理壓力的重鎮
387
00:13:00,166 --> 00:13:02,366
它不能單靠手指「優雅鎖定」
388
00:13:02,366 --> 00:13:04,933
而是要把整條前臂、肩膀、膝蓋、腳踝
389
00:13:04,933 --> 00:13:06,466
硬生生「楔」進岩縫
390
00:13:06,500 --> 00:13:09,133
靠身體擴張與對抗性摩擦向上「擠」
391
00:13:09,300 --> 00:13:11,400
亞歷克斯反覆練習手指不貼膠帶
392
00:13:11,400 --> 00:13:13,066
也能穩定卡鎖的通過方式
393
00:13:13,666 --> 00:13:15,233
因為膠帶雖能保護皮膚
394
00:13:15,266 --> 00:13:17,033
卻會改變觸感與摩擦
395
00:13:17,166 --> 00:13:19,433
他選擇讓感知保持到最敏銳
396
00:13:19,700 --> 00:13:20,933
第三 關鍵分岔
397
00:13:20,933 --> 00:13:22,200
在第23段附近
398
00:13:22,200 --> 00:13:24,100
將面對的是選擇 特氟龍角
399
00:13:24,100 --> 00:13:25,933
還是 抱石問題段 的決策
400
00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:28,300
這是整條 自由騎士 的戰術核心
401
00:13:28,300 --> 00:13:31,533
這如同你要在兩個毒藥之間選一個喝下去
402
00:13:31,933 --> 00:13:34,033
特氟龍角 難度5.12d
403
00:13:34,100 --> 00:13:36,733
作為幾乎無摩擦的「特氟龍」式對撐角
404
00:13:36,733 --> 00:13:38,700
鞋底像踩在塗了蠟的玻璃上
405
00:13:38,700 --> 00:13:41,333
稍一失衡 就像在皂面上試圖站穩
406
00:13:41,600 --> 00:13:44,033
抱石問題段 難度5.13 A
407
00:13:44,133 --> 00:13:45,966
這裡是短而爆裂的抱石序列
408
00:13:45,966 --> 00:13:48,133
左手小點 右手拇指反壓
409
00:13:48,166 --> 00:13:51,200
左腳高抬貼壁 瞬間跨擊到對側支點
410
00:13:51,200 --> 00:13:53,000
再以鎖定與高腳穩住
411
00:13:53,366 --> 00:13:55,233
亞歷克斯經過長時間權衡
412
00:13:55,266 --> 00:13:56,633
選擇了 抱石問題段
413
00:13:56,700 --> 00:13:57,766
理由很冷酷
414
00:13:57,766 --> 00:14:00,333
特氟龍角在當日微溼的空氣裡「太滑」
415
00:14:00,333 --> 00:14:02,233
而 抱石問題段雖然爆裂
416
00:14:02,266 --> 00:14:03,733
但可重複性更高
417
00:14:03,766 --> 00:14:05,700
只要身體在正確的軌跡上
418
00:14:05,700 --> 00:14:07,200
動作可百分之百復現
419
00:14:07,666 --> 00:14:09,233
他把那兩三秒的連續動作
420
00:14:09,266 --> 00:14:11,233
練到像打開門鎖一樣自然
421
00:14:11,266 --> 00:14:13,433
手指落點 腳尖角度 跨擊高度
422
00:14:13,466 --> 00:14:15,000
進行了百分百復刻
423
00:14:15,300 --> 00:14:16,100
在影像裡
424
00:14:16,100 --> 00:14:18,566
你能看見他在那一瞬間屏住呼吸
425
00:14:18,700 --> 00:14:19,833
這並不是因為害怕
426
00:14:19,866 --> 00:14:21,200
而是為了讓胸腔體積
427
00:14:21,200 --> 00:14:23,433
不改變上半身的平衡 落點穩住
428
00:14:23,433 --> 00:14:24,233
他才吐氣
429
00:14:24,700 --> 00:14:27,466
這是一個與自由墜落擦肩而過的瞬間
430
00:14:27,766 --> 00:14:28,900
第四是 耐力角
431
00:14:28,900 --> 00:14:32,600
這是 5.12 級的連續內角對撐與外緣貼壓組合
432
00:14:32,933 --> 00:14:34,366
雙腳在兩面牆上開撐
433
00:14:34,366 --> 00:14:36,566
雙手以掌面貼壓微調重心
434
00:14:36,733 --> 00:14:39,366
核心肌群要在無明顯抓點的情況下
435
00:14:39,366 --> 00:14:40,333
長時間穩定
436
00:14:40,500 --> 00:14:43,266
亞歷克斯在此段追求的是無停頓的流暢
437
00:14:43,366 --> 00:14:45,633
因為停下喘息所帶來的持續消耗
438
00:14:45,666 --> 00:14:47,333
比繼續前進更危險
439
00:14:47,466 --> 00:14:49,133
最後是在頂端之前
440
00:14:49,133 --> 00:14:51,633
自由騎士線 的上段不以技術聞名
441
00:14:51,666 --> 00:14:53,266
卻以疲勞與錯亂致命
442
00:14:53,366 --> 00:14:55,833
長距離的 5.10至5.11 拉扯
443
00:14:55,866 --> 00:14:57,933
加上紫外線 脫水 手指皮破
444
00:14:57,933 --> 00:15:00,800
會讓大腦在最後幾百米發出錯誤指令
445
00:15:01,066 --> 00:15:03,766
經過3 小時 56 分 他站上了台地
446
00:15:03,966 --> 00:15:06,366
世界用僅一個冷冰的數字記下來
447
00:15:06,700 --> 00:15:07,466
這一切背後
448
00:15:07,466 --> 00:15:09,800
有個被多家報導反覆提到的細節
449
00:15:09,966 --> 00:15:12,433
在南卡羅來納醫科大學的 實驗裡
450
00:15:12,466 --> 00:15:13,600
亞歷克斯 的杏仁核
451
00:15:13,600 --> 00:15:15,666
人類處理恐懼的關鍵區域
452
00:15:15,733 --> 00:15:18,166
對強情緒圖片的反應遠低於對照
453
00:15:18,333 --> 00:15:20,000
這不等於他「不會害怕」
454
00:15:20,300 --> 00:15:22,733
而更像是擁有更高的觸發閾值
455
00:15:22,900 --> 00:15:25,966
亞歷克斯只是透過大量 重複 極具體的訓練
456
00:15:26,066 --> 00:15:28,766
把恐懼從「驚嚇」轉化為可管理的資訊
457
00:15:29,966 --> 00:15:31,933
從此以後 「可不可以」不再是問題
458
00:15:32,200 --> 00:15:33,400
真正的問題是
459
00:15:33,400 --> 00:15:36,166
你能為「正確做對一次」 到底準備多久
460
00:15:36,533 --> 00:15:38,166
2017 年的那個早晨
461
00:15:38,166 --> 00:15:40,566
亞歷克斯用僅僅四個小時回答了它
462
00:15:40,566 --> 00:15:41,566
而在這面牆上
463
00:15:41,566 --> 00:15:43,300
更多的人會用十年 二十年
464
00:15:43,300 --> 00:15:44,733
乃至一生來回答
465
00:15:44,733 --> 00:15:47,000
因為酋長岩從來不只一條路徑
466
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:49,533
它是一面鏡子 照出每個人的天賦
467
00:15:49,533 --> 00:15:51,900
願意承擔的風險 願意付出的努力
468
00:15:51,900 --> 00:15:53,600
以及在墜落與站立之間
469
00:15:53,600 --> 00:15:54,533
你如何選擇
470
00:15:55,066 --> 00:15:55,600
然而
471
00:15:55,600 --> 00:15:57,366
援助攀登的「陰影」並不會因
472
00:15:57,366 --> 00:15:59,533
自由徒手攀的成功而消失
473
00:15:59,566 --> 00:16:02,100
它以更精煉的形態藏在一些路線裡
474
00:16:02,100 --> 00:16:03,833
等待新一代人去承擔
475
00:16:03,966 --> 00:16:06,566
例如1978首次完成的夢之海
476
00:16:06,566 --> 00:16:08,633
至今尚無被全線自由攀
477
00:16:09,300 --> 00:16:11,800
長距離微掛點 銅頭與掛鉤的組合
478
00:16:11,800 --> 00:16:15,233
要求攀登者在幾小時完全無可靠保護的段落裡
479
00:16:15,266 --> 00:16:16,633
維持判斷與冷靜
480
00:16:16,700 --> 00:16:17,566
四十多年後
481
00:16:17,566 --> 00:16:19,300
年輕的攀登者巴林．米勒
482
00:16:19,300 --> 00:16:21,100
正是在這條線付出代價
483
00:16:21,100 --> 00:16:21,966
每一個小失誤
484
00:16:21,966 --> 00:16:24,533
都會被放大成為無可補救的後果
485
00:16:24,666 --> 00:16:25,966
2025 年10月1日
486
00:16:25,966 --> 00:16:28,000
年僅23 歲的巴林．米勒
487
00:16:28,066 --> 00:16:29,366
曾經把2700米的
488
00:16:29,366 --> 00:16:32,100
德納里 Slovak Direct的人類首次獨攀
489
00:16:32,100 --> 00:16:34,500
2000米亨特峰極限混合線攀登
490
00:16:34,500 --> 00:16:37,166
以及加拿大落基山 Reality Bath 的獨攀
491
00:16:37,266 --> 00:16:39,366
逐一寫進履歷的傳奇新星
492
00:16:39,533 --> 00:16:40,333
這次的目標
493
00:16:40,333 --> 00:16:43,166
正是這條酋長岩上惡名昭著的夢之海
494
00:16:43,700 --> 00:16:47,366
這條援助線目前紀錄用時21小時33分的路線
495
00:16:47,366 --> 00:16:49,033
那一天 他完成了攀登
496
00:16:49,033 --> 00:16:49,766
真正的危險
497
00:16:49,766 --> 00:16:52,433
卻出現在了攀登成功後返程途中
498
00:16:52,700 --> 00:16:53,400
報導指出
499
00:16:53,400 --> 00:16:54,966
他在下降過程中很可能
500
00:16:54,966 --> 00:16:56,866
出現了「跑出繩端」的情況
501
00:16:56,933 --> 00:16:57,933
家屬也表示
502
00:16:57,933 --> 00:17:00,233
他或許沒有在繩端打上止動結
503
00:17:00,300 --> 00:17:02,833
這個在教科書裡只佔一行的小動作
504
00:17:02,900 --> 00:17:06,400
卻在他完美演繹攀登技巧後決定最後的生死
505
00:17:06,700 --> 00:17:07,533
自此之後
506
00:17:07,533 --> 00:17:10,133
酋長岩上的風彷彿變得更加凌厲
507
00:17:10,133 --> 00:17:13,433
但酋長岩上的各條攀登路線依舊懸在晨光裡
508
00:17:13,466 --> 00:17:14,366
它不會說話
509
00:17:14,366 --> 00:17:15,966
卻記住每一個走過它的人
510
00:17:15,966 --> 00:17:17,200
也在提醒每個人
511
00:17:17,200 --> 00:17:19,366
這座牆 從不饒恕任何失誤
512
00:17:19,866 --> 00:17:21,400
酋長岩不只是一座山
513
00:17:21,400 --> 00:17:22,400
它是一面牆
514
00:17:22,400 --> 00:17:24,600
一面把恐懼量化到毫米的牆
515
00:17:24,666 --> 00:17:25,633
也是一面鏡子
516
00:17:25,666 --> 00:17:28,433
一面映照出人類渴望與恐懼的鏡子
517
00:17:28,800 --> 00:17:29,966
這裡的每一道裂縫
518
00:17:29,966 --> 00:17:32,533
都記錄著人類挑戰自我的瞬間
519
00:17:32,533 --> 00:17:35,400
亞歷克斯．霍諾德的成功與巴林．米勒的墜落
520
00:17:35,400 --> 00:17:38,066
都是以不同的結局提醒我們同一件事
521
00:17:38,333 --> 00:17:40,000
攀登從來不是征服自然
522
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:41,833
而是理解恐懼 了解自己
523
00:17:42,300 --> 00:17:43,233
真正被征服的
524
00:17:43,266 --> 00:17:44,333
從來不是岩壁
525
00:17:44,333 --> 00:17:46,366
只是那不斷被推高的自身極限
526
00:17:46,366 --> 00:17:47,766
與我們心裡的恐懼
527
00:17:48,166 --> 00:17:51,033
如果你也對人類邊界的拓展充滿熱血
528
00:17:51,100 --> 00:17:51,766
歡迎按讚 訂閱
529
00:17:51,766 --> 00:17:53,900
在留言區留下你的想法
530
00:17:53,900 --> 00:17:56,766
我們將持續追蹤人類探索進程的每一步
531
00:17:56,900 --> 00:17:58,200
這裡是 ZUS 灼視
532
00:17:58,200 --> 00:18:00,366
用視覺解碼屬於人類的浪漫
533
00:18:00,366 --> 00:18:02,233
我們下次探索之旅再見36975
