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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,880 --> 00:00:05,440 VOICEOVER: Malaysia, known to ancient mariners 2 00:00:05,600 --> 00:00:07,480 as "the land where the winds meet," 3 00:00:07,640 --> 00:00:10,040 has lured sailors, traders and navigators 4 00:00:10,200 --> 00:00:12,200 to her shores for centuries. 5 00:00:14,640 --> 00:00:17,000 Here, kingdoms rose and fell, 6 00:00:17,160 --> 00:00:21,680 players in the flow of global commerce, power and faith 7 00:00:21,840 --> 00:00:24,360 leaving their stamp on the extraordinary mix 8 00:00:24,520 --> 00:00:27,040 of cultures and people that make up the nation. 9 00:00:29,480 --> 00:00:33,080 It's a land linked by water, seas and rivers to lush heartlands 10 00:00:33,240 --> 00:00:36,520 and remote and forbidding interiors. 11 00:00:39,440 --> 00:00:43,440 Today, Malaysia is undergoing a massive transformation. 12 00:00:45,520 --> 00:00:47,800 Join us on an epic journey from the air, 13 00:00:47,960 --> 00:00:53,160 as we reveal one of the most modern states of 21st century Asia. 14 00:01:21,720 --> 00:01:25,880 Once, Malaysia was almost completely covered in rainforest. 15 00:01:29,600 --> 00:01:32,640 Its jungle, more than 130 million years old, 16 00:01:32,800 --> 00:01:36,200 is among the most ancient forests in the world. 17 00:01:42,800 --> 00:01:46,160 Archaeological evidence suggests human habitation 18 00:01:46,320 --> 00:01:49,080 for hundreds of thousands of years. 19 00:01:51,920 --> 00:01:55,040 The Orang Asli, Malaysia's first known inhabitants, 20 00:01:55,200 --> 00:01:57,600 arrived in successive waves from Africa 21 00:01:57,760 --> 00:02:00,520 more than 25,000 years ago. 22 00:02:00,680 --> 00:02:03,680 They made the forbidding rainforest their domain. 23 00:02:07,720 --> 00:02:10,640 At the end of the first millennium, they were followed by people 24 00:02:10,800 --> 00:02:13,400 from elsewhere in the Malay Archipelago. 25 00:02:13,560 --> 00:02:17,320 The new arrivals settled along the coast of the Malayan Peninsula. 26 00:02:21,400 --> 00:02:23,760 The villages of these farmers and fishermen 27 00:02:23,920 --> 00:02:27,800 were often at the mouths of rivers that fed into the Strait of Malacca - 28 00:02:27,960 --> 00:02:33,560 then and now, the key maritime route between India and China. 29 00:02:36,240 --> 00:02:41,080 It's still the thriving route that it was all those centuries ago. 30 00:02:43,400 --> 00:02:46,320 And at the heart of this shipping mecca was Malacca, 31 00:02:46,480 --> 00:02:50,840 founded by a Malay prince around the 1400s. 32 00:02:52,840 --> 00:02:55,800 Malacca soon attracted traders from as far away as China, 33 00:02:55,960 --> 00:03:00,080 India and the Arab world to become the emporium of the East. 34 00:03:03,800 --> 00:03:07,280 The lure was spices. 35 00:03:07,440 --> 00:03:10,320 Chinese traders brought porcelain and silk. 36 00:03:10,480 --> 00:03:13,640 Indian ships arrived laden with paper and cloth. 37 00:03:15,240 --> 00:03:18,280 Arab traders brought exotic fragrances 38 00:03:18,440 --> 00:03:20,840 to make perfumes and medicines. 39 00:03:21,960 --> 00:03:25,240 By the early 1500s, the Sultan of Malacca 40 00:03:25,400 --> 00:03:27,000 presided from his palace 41 00:03:27,160 --> 00:03:29,080 over the most important port of the region. 42 00:03:29,240 --> 00:03:33,040 But the city's fame also brought dangers. 43 00:03:34,040 --> 00:03:36,120 In 1511, Portuguese invaders 44 00:03:36,280 --> 00:03:38,240 overthrew the Sultan 45 00:03:38,400 --> 00:03:40,880 and imposed their political control on the city. 46 00:03:44,480 --> 00:03:46,360 The Porta de Santiago gate 47 00:03:46,520 --> 00:03:48,240 is one of the few reminders today 48 00:03:48,400 --> 00:03:51,080 of that Portuguese presence in Malacca. 49 00:03:55,480 --> 00:03:59,440 It wasn't just political control that the invaders imposed. 50 00:03:59,600 --> 00:04:02,200 They also brought their faith, Catholicism. 51 00:04:03,760 --> 00:04:06,240 The ruins of St Paul's Church, built in 1521, 52 00:04:06,400 --> 00:04:09,800 are a reminder of that Portuguese domination. 53 00:04:16,880 --> 00:04:20,520 Just as St Paul's Church decayed over time, 54 00:04:20,680 --> 00:04:23,840 so too did Portuguese rule in Malacca. 55 00:04:26,720 --> 00:04:29,120 As Lisbon tightened its purse strings, 56 00:04:29,280 --> 00:04:32,640 its distant colony became vulnerable to new threats. 57 00:04:40,360 --> 00:04:42,800 The Dutch had designs on Malacca. 58 00:04:42,960 --> 00:04:45,360 In 1640 they began a siege of the city 59 00:04:45,520 --> 00:04:48,160 that was to cost them 1,000 men. 60 00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:51,560 Weakened by the prolonged assault, 61 00:04:51,720 --> 00:04:55,480 the Portuguese surrendered the city in January, 1641. 62 00:04:59,000 --> 00:05:02,760 The Dutch proceeded to rebuild Malacca in their own image. 63 00:05:04,440 --> 00:05:06,640 This is the Stadthuys - 64 00:05:06,800 --> 00:05:09,120 the oldest remaining Dutch structure in the East. 65 00:05:09,280 --> 00:05:13,960 Completed in 1660, it served as the Governor's residence. 66 00:05:17,480 --> 00:05:20,240 The Dutch carried out an extensive building program, 67 00:05:20,400 --> 00:05:23,120 establishing a planned city along the river. 68 00:05:23,280 --> 00:05:26,840 Shop-houses and townhouses sprang up along the banks. 69 00:05:30,160 --> 00:05:34,000 The Dutch were intolerant of the Catholic faith in the new colony 70 00:05:34,160 --> 00:05:36,720 and built a grand Protestant shrine, 71 00:05:36,880 --> 00:05:39,440 on the site of an earlier Portuguese church. 72 00:05:48,760 --> 00:05:51,360 A new master had arrived in town. 73 00:05:56,600 --> 00:06:01,080 This little Holland in far-off Malacca thrived as a Dutch outpost 74 00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:02,960 for more than a century-and-a-half, 75 00:06:03,120 --> 00:06:06,120 but the increasingly high taxes of the new colonial ruler 76 00:06:06,280 --> 00:06:08,520 forced many European merchants 77 00:06:08,680 --> 00:06:11,360 to seek out other ports of opportunity. 78 00:06:15,680 --> 00:06:17,760 A third colonial power, Britain, 79 00:06:17,920 --> 00:06:20,160 was determined to get a foothold in the region. 80 00:06:20,320 --> 00:06:23,560 It negotiated an agreement with the Sultan of Kedah, 81 00:06:23,720 --> 00:06:25,480 in the north of the peninsula, 82 00:06:25,640 --> 00:06:29,920 to establish a base on the island of Penang in 1786. 83 00:06:37,520 --> 00:06:39,080 The capital, George Town, 84 00:06:39,240 --> 00:06:41,520 has the largest collection of traditional shop-houses 85 00:06:41,680 --> 00:06:43,760 in all of South-east Asia. 86 00:06:47,720 --> 00:06:51,360 The British stamped their architectural presence on Penang 87 00:06:51,520 --> 00:06:53,360 with a flourish. 88 00:06:55,480 --> 00:06:59,560 The makeover and the free-port trade energising Penang 89 00:06:59,720 --> 00:07:02,840 attracted a multitude of races to descend on George Town. 90 00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:09,960 Each community was assigned an enclave, 91 00:07:10,120 --> 00:07:15,000 with Malay settlers placed in one of the oldest precincts, Acheh Street. 92 00:07:18,480 --> 00:07:20,680 The area was dominated by the mosque, 93 00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:22,920 built in the early 19th century 94 00:07:23,080 --> 00:07:26,320 by a spice-trading Achenese prince of Arab descent. 95 00:07:29,520 --> 00:07:32,120 Chinese immigrants who flooded onto the island 96 00:07:32,280 --> 00:07:34,320 formed clan communities, 97 00:07:34,480 --> 00:07:36,880 drawn together by common ancestry and dialect. 98 00:07:39,320 --> 00:07:41,000 They were wild times. 99 00:07:41,160 --> 00:07:42,840 Secret societies proliferated, 100 00:07:43,000 --> 00:07:46,520 fighting for control of the island's gambling, opium and labour markets. 101 00:07:50,400 --> 00:07:53,040 The Chinese clans built their own strongholds, 102 00:07:53,200 --> 00:07:55,760 with magnificent temples marking their territory. 103 00:07:59,680 --> 00:08:02,080 The most imposing is the Khoo Kongsi, 104 00:08:02,240 --> 00:08:04,400 which stands in the granite-paved compound 105 00:08:04,560 --> 00:08:06,160 of Cannon Square. 106 00:08:06,320 --> 00:08:09,200 The square gets its name from the nine-day street battle 107 00:08:09,360 --> 00:08:13,200 that raged in its vicinity during the Penang Riots of 1867, 108 00:08:13,360 --> 00:08:16,480 when rival clans fought for control of the city. 109 00:08:20,400 --> 00:08:22,640 As with most Chinese temples, 110 00:08:22,800 --> 00:08:25,720 the roof is the dominant architectural feature. 111 00:08:27,640 --> 00:08:30,000 Thousands of porcelain shards from broken bowls 112 00:08:30,160 --> 00:08:32,920 are used in decorative three-dimensional motifs. 113 00:08:40,200 --> 00:08:43,080 The most splendid of the roof guardians is the dragon - 114 00:08:43,240 --> 00:08:46,240 a potent symbol of good fortune and power. 115 00:08:58,360 --> 00:09:02,400 A large Indian community was also drawn to George Town. 116 00:09:02,560 --> 00:09:06,200 Once a year, the Hindu thanksgiving festival of Thaipusam 117 00:09:06,360 --> 00:09:08,200 is celebrated in the city. 118 00:09:11,840 --> 00:09:15,720 The centrepiece of the event is a procession by a silver chariot. 119 00:09:15,880 --> 00:09:18,640 It travels 7km across the town 120 00:09:18,800 --> 00:09:20,960 bearing a statue of Lord Muruga, 121 00:09:21,120 --> 00:09:25,200 the Hindu god of war and vanquisher of evil. 122 00:09:28,120 --> 00:09:30,600 Throughout the day, the chariot stops 123 00:09:30,760 --> 00:09:33,600 to allow thousands of devotees to present offerings, 124 00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:37,920 including trays of flowers, fruit, incense and betel leaves. 125 00:09:48,840 --> 00:09:50,880 Before the chariot arrives, 126 00:09:51,040 --> 00:09:53,800 thousands of coconuts are smashed on the ground 127 00:09:53,960 --> 00:09:56,080 in an act of purification. 128 00:10:01,160 --> 00:10:03,000 The smashing of the coconuts 129 00:10:03,160 --> 00:10:05,680 symbolises the breaking of one's ego, 130 00:10:05,840 --> 00:10:08,320 while the coconut water inside represents purity 131 00:10:08,480 --> 00:10:10,680 and a cleansing of the soul. 132 00:10:15,760 --> 00:10:19,120 The procession has been held annually in George Town 133 00:10:19,280 --> 00:10:21,600 for more than 150 years. 134 00:10:28,560 --> 00:10:31,400 As the chariot approaches its final destination, 135 00:10:31,560 --> 00:10:33,800 it passes through streets lined with stalls 136 00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:35,440 overflowing with Indian snacks 137 00:10:35,600 --> 00:10:38,520 and curries for the hordes of devotees. 138 00:10:43,320 --> 00:10:47,120 After more than 16 hours, the chariot completes its journey 139 00:10:47,280 --> 00:10:49,560 at the Waterfall Hill Temple. 140 00:10:51,520 --> 00:10:54,120 Followers then climb the 513 steps 141 00:10:54,280 --> 00:10:56,200 to the hilltop temple 142 00:10:56,360 --> 00:11:00,000 to offer their prayers for a better life to Lord Subramaniam, 143 00:11:00,160 --> 00:11:03,080 one of the many names of Lord Muruga. 144 00:11:10,681 --> 00:11:12,841 It was here in the State of Perak 145 00:11:13,001 --> 00:11:15,001 that the British extended their control 146 00:11:15,161 --> 00:11:18,721 to the Malayan Peninsula in 1875. 147 00:11:18,881 --> 00:11:21,041 The Straits Settlements governor 148 00:11:21,201 --> 00:11:23,441 signed a treaty with the local Sultan 149 00:11:23,601 --> 00:11:26,081 that placed Perak under British protection. 150 00:11:30,401 --> 00:11:32,721 The Sultan accepted a British resident 151 00:11:32,881 --> 00:11:35,161 whose advice had to be sought and acted upon 152 00:11:35,321 --> 00:11:38,481 for all matters other than Malay religion and customs. 153 00:11:40,761 --> 00:11:45,441 The Perak sultans resided here, in the royal town of Kuala Kangsar. 154 00:11:51,321 --> 00:11:54,681 Their lineage descended from the old ruling house of Melaka 155 00:11:54,841 --> 00:11:56,961 from the early 1600s. 156 00:11:58,761 --> 00:12:02,361 The palace is a wondrous mix of Islamic and Art Deco styles 157 00:12:02,521 --> 00:12:05,961 and is still the official residence of the Head of State, 158 00:12:06,121 --> 00:12:08,041 the Sultan of Perak. 159 00:12:15,561 --> 00:12:18,761 The Ubudiah mosque is Perak's most famous landmark. 160 00:12:24,121 --> 00:12:28,801 It was completed in 1917, but construction didn't go smoothly. 161 00:12:28,961 --> 00:12:31,401 A couple of rogue elephants ran amok, 162 00:12:31,561 --> 00:12:33,881 ruining the Italian marble floor. 163 00:12:35,801 --> 00:12:40,121 The outbreak of the First World War also caused delays. 164 00:12:45,441 --> 00:12:48,081 Generations of sultans are buried here, 165 00:12:48,241 --> 00:12:50,081 looking down from the hilltop 166 00:12:50,241 --> 00:12:52,241 on the rice paddy fields. 167 00:12:58,961 --> 00:13:01,601 Rice is a staple food in Malaysia, 168 00:13:01,761 --> 00:13:05,441 and an integral part of Malaysian culture and beliefs. 169 00:13:08,161 --> 00:13:10,561 Many rites and ceremonies are devoted 170 00:13:10,721 --> 00:13:13,961 to appeasing the spirit that inhabits the rice. 171 00:13:18,041 --> 00:13:20,441 Once tended and cropped by hand, 172 00:13:20,601 --> 00:13:22,921 the rice fields are now harvested by machine. 173 00:13:30,561 --> 00:13:34,441 Perak once possessed the richest tin deposits in the world. 174 00:13:34,601 --> 00:13:37,481 With the invention of the tin can in 1810, 175 00:13:37,641 --> 00:13:40,601 tin production in Malaya exploded. 176 00:13:50,161 --> 00:13:52,921 The evidence of that tin boom is still seen today 177 00:13:53,081 --> 00:13:56,201 in the disused mining ponds that dot the landscape. 178 00:13:58,401 --> 00:14:02,961 Initially, thousands of Chinese speculators descended on Perak 179 00:14:03,121 --> 00:14:05,761 to plunder the lucrative deposits. 180 00:14:05,921 --> 00:14:09,121 By the early 20th century, European mining companies 181 00:14:09,281 --> 00:14:12,161 had seized the opportunity to dominate the industry. 182 00:14:13,441 --> 00:14:15,641 The British introduced the tin dredge - 183 00:14:15,801 --> 00:14:19,521 a large floating steel factory supported on pontoons. 184 00:14:24,881 --> 00:14:30,001 This dredge, known as TT5, started mining in 1938. 185 00:14:30,161 --> 00:14:33,161 It was then one of the biggest in the world. 186 00:14:42,041 --> 00:14:44,001 Run on diesel, the dredge could dig 187 00:14:44,161 --> 00:14:46,841 as deep as the height of a ten-storey building 188 00:14:47,001 --> 00:14:50,401 and extract up to 90% of the tin in the soil. 189 00:14:55,521 --> 00:14:59,761 Buckets on a chain scooped earth from the depths of the pond 190 00:14:59,921 --> 00:15:01,681 up to a revolving extraction drum 191 00:15:01,841 --> 00:15:03,881 that separated the tin deposits from the soil. 192 00:15:08,481 --> 00:15:11,481 The dredge ceased operating in 1982, 193 00:15:11,641 --> 00:15:14,521 when the tin finally ran out. 194 00:15:29,681 --> 00:15:33,441 Tin wasn't the only resource that changed the Perak landscape. 195 00:15:36,321 --> 00:15:39,681 In the 1870s, seed stock smuggled out of Brazil 196 00:15:39,841 --> 00:15:41,441 to London's Kew Gardens 197 00:15:41,601 --> 00:15:44,441 was to change the face of the nation forever. 198 00:15:46,001 --> 00:15:48,161 Rubber had arrived. 199 00:15:50,121 --> 00:15:52,241 Inspired by the invention of the motor car, 200 00:15:52,401 --> 00:15:54,801 rubber was suddenly in demand. 201 00:15:56,081 --> 00:15:58,521 Plantations sprang up all over Perak. 202 00:16:08,921 --> 00:16:13,041 By the 1930s, Malaya was producing half of the world's rubber. 203 00:16:15,401 --> 00:16:17,521 British planters made Malaya 204 00:16:17,681 --> 00:16:20,681 Britain's richest colony of the time. 205 00:16:23,961 --> 00:16:26,641 As they also did in India, the hills offered the British 206 00:16:26,801 --> 00:16:29,201 a refuge from the tropical heat. 207 00:16:29,361 --> 00:16:32,641 Little pockets of England emerged on the hilltops, 208 00:16:32,801 --> 00:16:35,001 like this one at Fraser's Hill. 209 00:16:41,281 --> 00:16:44,721 The Cameron Highlands also attracted British settlers. 210 00:16:48,721 --> 00:16:53,401 Discovered by William Cameron on a mapping expedition in 1885, 211 00:16:53,561 --> 00:16:56,241 the plateau was soon claimed by tea planters. 212 00:17:16,841 --> 00:17:20,841 The tea plants, mainly Darjeeling, came from India. 213 00:17:21,001 --> 00:17:23,441 Many of them are still productive today. 214 00:17:33,201 --> 00:17:36,521 Plucking tea is a perilous pursuit. 215 00:17:36,681 --> 00:17:40,041 The workers must brave slopes steeper than 45 degrees. 216 00:17:52,441 --> 00:17:55,161 Tea-pluckers need to know when the leaves are ready 217 00:17:55,321 --> 00:17:58,681 and pick them when they are tender and full of flavour. 218 00:18:09,281 --> 00:18:11,561 Just as industry developed Perak, 219 00:18:11,721 --> 00:18:15,881 the city of Kuala Lumpur came out of a resource boom in the 1870s. 220 00:18:18,721 --> 00:18:22,241 It was tin especially that attracted Chinese miners and traders 221 00:18:22,401 --> 00:18:25,601 to where the Klang and Gombak rivers converged. 222 00:18:29,001 --> 00:18:32,481 They set up camp there and called it Kuala Lumpur - 223 00:18:32,641 --> 00:18:35,201 Malay for "muddy confluence". 224 00:18:39,281 --> 00:18:41,441 The township soon began to grow. 225 00:18:43,001 --> 00:18:46,401 In 1880, the British Resident, Sir Frank Swettenham, 226 00:18:46,561 --> 00:18:50,721 made Kuala Lumpur the administrative capital of the State of Selangor. 227 00:18:53,081 --> 00:18:55,881 He immediately set about demolishing the ramshackle shanties 228 00:18:56,041 --> 00:18:58,481 and rebuilding the town. 229 00:19:08,601 --> 00:19:12,641 In 1894, construction began on the Government Offices. 230 00:19:12,801 --> 00:19:16,201 As a time capsule, the governor placed some tin coins 231 00:19:16,361 --> 00:19:20,081 and a copy of the Selangor Journal beneath the foundation stone. 232 00:19:24,361 --> 00:19:27,481 The magnificent structure required the founding of a new factory 233 00:19:27,641 --> 00:19:30,201 to supply its four million bricks. 234 00:19:30,361 --> 00:19:33,321 It was completed in 1897. 235 00:19:37,521 --> 00:19:39,921 The Government Offices faced the Tudor gables 236 00:19:40,081 --> 00:19:41,921 of the Selangor Club. 237 00:19:42,081 --> 00:19:45,761 Between them was the Padang - Malay for 'field' - 238 00:19:45,921 --> 00:19:48,401 which served as the club's cricket ground. 239 00:19:54,001 --> 00:19:57,481 Today, the Padang is called Dataran Merdeka - 240 00:19:57,641 --> 00:19:59,561 Independence Square. (BELLS RING) 241 00:19:59,721 --> 00:20:02,841 It was here, on the 31 August, 1957, 242 00:20:03,001 --> 00:20:05,961 that the sun set on British Malaya. 243 00:20:07,121 --> 00:20:09,641 At midnight, the Union Flag was lowered 244 00:20:09,801 --> 00:20:13,041 and the Federation of Malaya was born. 245 00:20:17,321 --> 00:20:20,201 This was also where the new nation of Malaysia was founded 246 00:20:20,361 --> 00:20:23,681 on the 16th of September, 1963. 247 00:20:25,521 --> 00:20:28,281 On that day, the former Crown Colonies of Singapore, 248 00:20:28,441 --> 00:20:32,001 North Borneo, and Sarawak all joined the Federation. 249 00:20:39,681 --> 00:20:42,401 But the union with Singapore was short-lived. 250 00:20:42,561 --> 00:20:46,241 Following political differences, Singapore was expelled from Malaysia 251 00:20:46,401 --> 00:20:50,361 in 1965 and became an independent city-state. 252 00:20:58,401 --> 00:21:00,761 This is not an umbrella or a fan. 253 00:21:00,921 --> 00:21:05,361 It's the roof of the Masjid Negara, the National Mosque. 254 00:21:08,801 --> 00:21:10,921 It was built as a national symbol 255 00:21:11,081 --> 00:21:14,761 when Kuala Lumpur embarked on a building boom after independence. 256 00:21:20,601 --> 00:21:22,881 The roof, shaped like an open umbrella, 257 00:21:23,041 --> 00:21:25,361 replaced the traditional dome. 258 00:21:25,521 --> 00:21:29,281 Its 16-pointed star shape protects the grand prayer hall below. 259 00:21:36,081 --> 00:21:38,601 Rising from a rectangular pool of water, 260 00:21:38,761 --> 00:21:41,441 the minaret resembles a closed umbrella. 261 00:21:45,001 --> 00:21:48,401 Five times a day, the Muslim call to prayer 262 00:21:48,561 --> 00:21:50,601 resonates throughout the area. 263 00:21:54,961 --> 00:22:00,001 Muslims account for more than 60% of Malaysia's 31 million people, 264 00:22:00,161 --> 00:22:03,081 and Islam is the official religion. 265 00:22:03,241 --> 00:22:06,401 Religious freedom is guaranteed for all other beliefs, 266 00:22:06,561 --> 00:22:09,241 with certain restrictions. 267 00:22:11,321 --> 00:22:14,601 By the early 1990s, an unprecedented economic boom 268 00:22:14,761 --> 00:22:18,401 encouraged the country to believe that it could do anything. 269 00:22:18,561 --> 00:22:22,161 It became one of the fastest-growing economies in Asia. 270 00:22:26,041 --> 00:22:30,161 Under the enthusiastic leadership of Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad, 271 00:22:30,321 --> 00:22:33,921 the catchphrase "Malaysia Can Do It" took hold. 272 00:22:34,081 --> 00:22:35,721 Even the sky wasn't the limit. 273 00:22:39,761 --> 00:22:42,001 Breaking records was all the rage, 274 00:22:42,161 --> 00:22:43,841 with the KL Tower becoming 275 00:22:44,001 --> 00:22:47,961 the tallest communications facility in South-east Asia. 276 00:22:48,121 --> 00:22:51,481 But the completion of the Petronas Towers in 1998 277 00:22:51,641 --> 00:22:53,841 put that in the shade. 278 00:22:56,001 --> 00:22:58,001 The 88-storey towers 279 00:22:58,161 --> 00:23:01,361 were the world's tallest building until 2004. 280 00:23:03,521 --> 00:23:05,481 The Petronas Towers are still 281 00:23:05,641 --> 00:23:09,121 the tallest identical structures in the world. 282 00:23:27,401 --> 00:23:30,201 The towers are linked by a double-decker skybridge 283 00:23:30,361 --> 00:23:32,881 on the 41st and 42nd floors. 284 00:23:33,041 --> 00:23:36,321 It is one of the highest two-storey bridges in the world. 285 00:23:40,521 --> 00:23:43,481 Mahathir Mohamad promised that the building 286 00:23:43,641 --> 00:23:45,881 would symbolise the nation's determination, 287 00:23:46,041 --> 00:23:49,201 confidence, optimism and energy. 288 00:24:02,316 --> 00:24:04,796 The economic boom of the early 1990s 289 00:24:04,956 --> 00:24:07,676 gave Malaysia a new-found confidence. 290 00:24:10,036 --> 00:24:13,676 Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad seized the moment. 291 00:24:19,476 --> 00:24:23,556 He committed his government to building a brand-new city, 292 00:24:23,716 --> 00:24:25,996 that would not only relieve congestion 293 00:24:26,156 --> 00:24:28,196 and overcrowding in Kuala Lumpur, 294 00:24:28,356 --> 00:24:31,196 but would also be the new seat of government and administration. 295 00:24:33,836 --> 00:24:38,276 Putrajaya is 50 minutes south of the centre of Kuala Lumpur. 296 00:24:38,436 --> 00:24:41,756 Construction began in 1995. 297 00:24:45,676 --> 00:24:47,676 An urban planning showcase, 298 00:24:47,836 --> 00:24:50,596 Putrajaya was designed as a garden city. 299 00:25:02,316 --> 00:25:05,276 The Islamic influence is everywhere. 300 00:25:06,756 --> 00:25:09,596 The Putra Mosque took inspiration from the Middle East. 301 00:25:09,756 --> 00:25:11,956 Its 116-metre minaret 302 00:25:12,116 --> 00:25:15,476 is influenced by the design of the Sheikh Omar mosque in Baghdad, 303 00:25:15,636 --> 00:25:18,236 while its basement wall resembles that 304 00:25:18,396 --> 00:25:22,036 of the King Hassan Mosque in Casablanca, Morocco. 305 00:25:24,196 --> 00:25:26,116 Made of rose-tinted granite, 306 00:25:26,276 --> 00:25:29,196 the mosque can accommodate more than 15,000 people. 307 00:25:34,356 --> 00:25:37,676 The Prime Minister's building faces a grand boulevard 308 00:25:37,836 --> 00:25:41,516 modelled on the Champs-Elysees but three times as long. 309 00:25:50,316 --> 00:25:52,876 At the southern end, 6km away, 310 00:25:53,036 --> 00:25:54,996 is a convention centre - 311 00:25:55,156 --> 00:25:56,996 an innovative modern structure 312 00:25:57,156 --> 00:25:59,836 shaped like the eye of a traditional royal belt. 313 00:26:04,556 --> 00:26:07,996 Putrajaya was largely funded by revenue from Petronas, 314 00:26:08,156 --> 00:26:10,916 the state oil and gas corporation. 315 00:26:11,076 --> 00:26:13,076 A Fortune 500 company, 316 00:26:13,236 --> 00:26:15,876 Petronas dominates Malaysia's economic landscape. 317 00:26:16,036 --> 00:26:18,116 It has the sole right 318 00:26:18,276 --> 00:26:21,196 to develop the country's rich oil and gas fields. 319 00:26:28,196 --> 00:26:29,956 Kerteh, in the State of Terengganu, 320 00:26:30,116 --> 00:26:31,956 is the company's base 321 00:26:32,116 --> 00:26:34,716 for its petrochemical production and refineries. 322 00:26:47,556 --> 00:26:51,196 The east coast of Malaysia remains something of a backwater. 323 00:26:59,196 --> 00:27:01,636 Known for its long, sandy shorelines, 324 00:27:01,796 --> 00:27:03,876 the east coast might be on a different planet 325 00:27:04,036 --> 00:27:07,756 from the populous, hectic and industrialised west coast. 326 00:27:14,956 --> 00:27:18,436 The locals here have fished these waters for generations. 327 00:27:18,596 --> 00:27:22,436 The South China Sea provides them with a bountiful living. 328 00:27:28,036 --> 00:27:31,596 The monsoonal seasons dictate the work cycle. 329 00:27:33,436 --> 00:27:35,996 When the weather allows, the men head to sea 330 00:27:36,156 --> 00:27:38,876 while the women dry and salt the catch. 331 00:27:45,396 --> 00:27:47,596 But from November to February, 332 00:27:47,756 --> 00:27:50,436 fierce monsoonal winds and rains bring huge waves, 333 00:27:50,596 --> 00:27:52,876 forcing the fishermen to repair their boats and nets 334 00:27:53,036 --> 00:27:55,196 in the sheltered lagoons. 335 00:28:02,636 --> 00:28:06,036 The monsoon also wears away precious habitats 336 00:28:06,196 --> 00:28:08,996 and changes the landscape of the coastline. 337 00:28:18,556 --> 00:28:23,236 Over 800km to the east lies Asia's biggest island - 338 00:28:23,396 --> 00:28:27,676 Borneo, home to the Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak. 339 00:28:29,516 --> 00:28:32,236 Borneo was once part of the Asian mainland. 340 00:28:32,396 --> 00:28:35,036 But as sea levels rose at the end of the ice age, 341 00:28:35,196 --> 00:28:37,396 much of this landmass was drowned, 342 00:28:37,556 --> 00:28:41,036 leaving behind a new world of islands. 343 00:28:42,876 --> 00:28:47,356 This dynamic world, scarred by volcanic eruptions 344 00:28:47,516 --> 00:28:51,196 and earthquakes, shaped people's lives for thousands of years. 345 00:28:53,356 --> 00:28:56,916 Between islands, trade networks were born. 346 00:29:00,476 --> 00:29:03,396 Bukit Tengkorak - "Skull Hill" in Sabah - 347 00:29:03,556 --> 00:29:06,156 was a thriving community of merchants and craftsmen 348 00:29:06,316 --> 00:29:07,716 3,000 years ago. 349 00:29:07,876 --> 00:29:12,316 Archaeologists have uncovered a remarkable relic from those times - 350 00:29:12,476 --> 00:29:16,236 the once-precious mineral, obsidian. 351 00:29:18,836 --> 00:29:21,436 This volcanic glass was used in cutting-tools 352 00:29:21,596 --> 00:29:24,516 by the early inhabitants of Sabah. 353 00:29:27,036 --> 00:29:29,556 Remarkably, the find is believed to have come 354 00:29:29,716 --> 00:29:34,356 from 3,500 kilometres away in Papua New Guinea, 355 00:29:34,516 --> 00:29:38,276 suggesting that people travelled from the Pacific to Borneo 356 00:29:38,436 --> 00:29:40,596 during the Neolithic Period. 357 00:29:44,036 --> 00:29:46,316 Bukit Tengkorak may have been one of the biggest 358 00:29:46,476 --> 00:29:48,916 pottery and ceramic manufacturing sites 359 00:29:49,076 --> 00:29:50,876 in the Asian world. 360 00:29:51,036 --> 00:29:53,356 Tens of thousands of pottery fragments 361 00:29:53,516 --> 00:29:55,836 are scattered across the site. 362 00:30:01,236 --> 00:30:05,636 This traditional technology is still used today by the Bajau Laut, 363 00:30:05,796 --> 00:30:07,476 or sea gypsies, 364 00:30:07,636 --> 00:30:09,156 many of whom live in stilt villages 365 00:30:09,316 --> 00:30:13,036 in the fishing town of Semporna and the seas beyond. 366 00:30:22,156 --> 00:30:25,836 In this island world, it is the ocean and its riches 367 00:30:25,996 --> 00:30:28,196 that shape the sea gypsies' lives. 368 00:30:34,676 --> 00:30:36,996 In the early 20th century, 369 00:30:37,156 --> 00:30:39,156 the British North Borneo Company 370 00:30:39,316 --> 00:30:41,876 attempted to control the mobility of these sea nomads 371 00:30:42,036 --> 00:30:45,396 by forcing them to register their boats so they were traceable. 372 00:30:45,556 --> 00:30:49,316 Since then, more and more of the Bajau Laut 373 00:30:49,476 --> 00:30:51,636 have begun to live on the land, 374 00:30:51,796 --> 00:30:56,196 but many maintain their nomadic way of life even today. 375 00:30:56,356 --> 00:30:58,476 They are often stateless, 376 00:30:58,636 --> 00:31:01,876 and so have no right to public amenities or schools. 377 00:31:08,476 --> 00:31:10,836 Their children learn to swim at the same time 378 00:31:10,996 --> 00:31:13,316 as they learn to walk. 379 00:31:17,396 --> 00:31:22,156 The sea gypsies eke out an existence by fishing with spears and driftnets 380 00:31:22,316 --> 00:31:25,556 in the lush coral gardens that abound in the region. 381 00:31:35,196 --> 00:31:38,676 The reefs here are some of the most diverse in the world 382 00:31:38,836 --> 00:31:41,236 and are an important breeding ground for fish. 383 00:31:47,116 --> 00:31:51,636 To protect these rich waters, the Tun Sakaran Marine Park 384 00:31:51,796 --> 00:31:53,996 was gazetted in 2004, 385 00:31:54,156 --> 00:31:57,876 protecting an area half the size of Singapore. 386 00:32:00,836 --> 00:32:03,276 Some parts of the park have a total fishing ban 387 00:32:03,436 --> 00:32:05,396 to protect the fish stock. 388 00:32:09,276 --> 00:32:13,676 To ensure that the sea gypsy community has an alternative income, 389 00:32:13,836 --> 00:32:16,316 seaweed farming has been introduced. 390 00:32:24,196 --> 00:32:26,836 It's an ideal match for the sea gypsies' way of life, 391 00:32:26,996 --> 00:32:30,516 providing an efficient way to battle food shortages and poverty 392 00:32:30,676 --> 00:32:33,276 while not destroying their lifeline - 393 00:32:33,436 --> 00:32:37,316 the unpolluted marine environment surrounding the communities. 394 00:32:41,676 --> 00:32:43,876 Once a year, the town of Semporna 395 00:32:44,036 --> 00:32:46,276 transforms into one huge carnival 396 00:32:46,436 --> 00:32:50,116 to celebrate the heritage of the seafaring Bajau people. 397 00:32:52,276 --> 00:32:56,356 The Lepa Regatta has been celebrated every year since 1994 398 00:32:56,516 --> 00:33:01,236 to commemorate the Bajau tradition of building these single-masted boats. 399 00:33:04,596 --> 00:33:07,516 The highlight of the festival is a competition 400 00:33:07,676 --> 00:33:09,676 to find the most beautiful Bajau boat, 401 00:33:09,836 --> 00:33:12,396 known as the Lepa-Lepa. 402 00:33:14,636 --> 00:33:17,876 A flotilla of boats adorned with colourful flags 403 00:33:18,036 --> 00:33:19,876 from the different villages and islands 404 00:33:20,036 --> 00:33:22,516 descends on the waterfront to be judged. 405 00:33:24,196 --> 00:33:26,356 The judges are looking for the best-designed boats 406 00:33:26,516 --> 00:33:29,076 and how decorative the flags and sails are 407 00:33:29,236 --> 00:33:31,716 that have been passed down through the generations. 408 00:33:33,436 --> 00:33:35,876 Music and dancing are also on the menu. 409 00:33:40,436 --> 00:33:44,156 With more than 400 boats vying for cash prizes 410 00:33:44,316 --> 00:33:47,476 and coveted boat engines, the two-day extravaganza 411 00:33:47,636 --> 00:33:50,596 draws people from all over the archipelago 412 00:33:50,756 --> 00:33:54,316 to unwind in a fiesta of fun and colour. 413 00:34:06,200 --> 00:34:08,840 Much of the State of Sabah in East Malaysia 414 00:34:09,000 --> 00:34:10,880 was unknown and undiscovered 415 00:34:11,040 --> 00:34:13,320 until just after the Second World War. 416 00:34:15,960 --> 00:34:18,280 The existence of this mysterious land 417 00:34:18,440 --> 00:34:20,400 was only revealed by accident 418 00:34:20,560 --> 00:34:22,480 when a British pilot flew into thick fog. 419 00:34:26,120 --> 00:34:28,440 As the plane emerged from the clouds, 420 00:34:28,600 --> 00:34:31,440 the pilot was confronted by a wall of forbidding granite cliffs. 421 00:34:33,280 --> 00:34:37,280 He just avoided death by flying up and over the jagged cliffs. 422 00:34:44,920 --> 00:34:46,920 In his miraculous escape, 423 00:34:47,080 --> 00:34:49,360 the pilot made a remarkable discovery - 424 00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:53,440 the lost world of Sabah, the Maliau Basin. 425 00:34:59,080 --> 00:35:02,400 The basin's forbidding cliffs protected the area for so long 426 00:35:02,560 --> 00:35:05,640 because they make it virtually inaccessible. 427 00:35:11,080 --> 00:35:14,400 From the 1960s on, explorers made three attempts 428 00:35:14,560 --> 00:35:18,280 to scale the escarpments and discover the treasures within. 429 00:35:18,440 --> 00:35:21,120 Each time, this fortress defeated them. 430 00:35:25,080 --> 00:35:28,000 The only way in is where the Maliau River exits the basin. 431 00:35:28,160 --> 00:35:33,160 Even this is guarded by a series of majestic gorges and waterfalls. 432 00:35:40,200 --> 00:35:43,880 The most spectacular is the seven-tiered Maliau Falls. 433 00:35:44,040 --> 00:35:45,640 It is known to the local people 434 00:35:45,800 --> 00:35:48,280 as the home of the mythical water dragon. 435 00:36:13,800 --> 00:36:16,040 The Maliau Basin's inaccessibility 436 00:36:16,200 --> 00:36:18,480 has meant that its natural secrets 437 00:36:18,640 --> 00:36:21,080 have been hidden for millions of years. 438 00:36:25,320 --> 00:36:29,760 In 1981, a survey party from the Sabah Foundation 439 00:36:29,920 --> 00:36:33,040 managed to land in a helicopter and cut a trail. 440 00:36:33,200 --> 00:36:35,640 This enabled a 43-member expedition 441 00:36:35,800 --> 00:36:39,240 to spend three weeks in the region in 1988. 442 00:36:43,840 --> 00:36:46,240 Over 100 scientific expeditions 443 00:36:46,400 --> 00:36:49,360 have since entered this land of the unknown. 444 00:36:49,520 --> 00:36:54,440 What they discovered is a living laboratory untamed by man. 445 00:37:01,120 --> 00:37:04,760 The forest has over 1,800 rare plant species, 446 00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:07,560 some found nowhere else on Earth. 447 00:37:12,280 --> 00:37:14,960 Within these jungles are some of 448 00:37:15,120 --> 00:37:17,280 the tallest tropical trees ever recorded, 449 00:37:17,440 --> 00:37:19,640 with heights reaching over 80 metres - 450 00:37:19,800 --> 00:37:22,480 higher than a 25-storey building. 451 00:37:32,240 --> 00:37:35,960 Every few years, the forest explodes into a mosaic of colours 452 00:37:36,080 --> 00:37:40,120 as synchronised flowering and fruiting occur on a large scale. 453 00:37:40,280 --> 00:37:42,520 The trigger for this is still unknown 454 00:37:42,680 --> 00:37:44,400 but it's thought that the bounty available 455 00:37:44,560 --> 00:37:48,000 becomes too much for the local animal life to consume. 456 00:37:53,080 --> 00:37:56,720 It's nature's way of ensuring the survival of the forest. 457 00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:18,600 In Borneo, jungles are not only made from timber but from stone. 458 00:38:22,040 --> 00:38:25,680 This astonishing stone forest belongs to Gunung Api, 459 00:38:25,840 --> 00:38:30,160 or Fire Mountain, at Mulu National Park in Sarawak. 460 00:38:30,320 --> 00:38:32,920 Its rock cover has eroded on the outside 461 00:38:33,080 --> 00:38:35,640 to form this jungle of stone pinnacles. 462 00:38:47,200 --> 00:38:49,280 The razor-sharp limestone points 463 00:38:49,440 --> 00:38:53,360 reach up to 50 metres above the surrounding vegetation. 464 00:38:53,520 --> 00:38:56,880 They have been chiselled out over the centuries by heavy rainfall 465 00:38:57,040 --> 00:38:59,840 cascading down from a rock plateau above them. 466 00:39:04,760 --> 00:39:08,800 It was not until 1978 that Gunung Api was finally conquered 467 00:39:08,960 --> 00:39:12,560 by a climbing party organised by the Royal Geographic Society 468 00:39:12,720 --> 00:39:14,720 and the Sarawak Government. 469 00:39:14,880 --> 00:39:17,040 Tragedy was narrowly avoided 470 00:39:17,200 --> 00:39:20,320 when a moving boulder threatened to crush the climbers. 471 00:39:26,600 --> 00:39:29,880 This massive survey of the Gunung Mulu National Park 472 00:39:30,040 --> 00:39:34,480 also sent 115 scientists into this amazing lost land 473 00:39:34,640 --> 00:39:37,600 to unearth its secrets and survey its features. 474 00:39:40,200 --> 00:39:44,080 What they found was an extraordinary network of caves 475 00:39:44,240 --> 00:39:46,840 that stretched for 150km. 476 00:39:52,120 --> 00:39:55,600 Early European visitors were warned away from the Mulu Caves 477 00:39:55,760 --> 00:40:00,200 by locals who cautioned that they were the home of dwarves and ghosts 478 00:40:00,360 --> 00:40:02,360 and a place to be avoided. 479 00:40:06,800 --> 00:40:10,480 Perhaps Borneo's most impressive geological feature of all 480 00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:14,400 is the massive outcrop of granite that is Mount Kinabalu. 481 00:40:19,520 --> 00:40:21,960 Rising skywards at about five millimetres a year, 482 00:40:22,120 --> 00:40:25,000 it is the world's youngest non-volcanic mountain. 483 00:40:28,880 --> 00:40:31,400 Standing over 4,000 metres high, 484 00:40:31,560 --> 00:40:33,600 the mountain is revered by the locals 485 00:40:33,760 --> 00:40:35,840 who attribute special qualities to the peak, 486 00:40:36,000 --> 00:40:39,880 regarding it as the sacred place of the dead whose spirits rest here. 487 00:40:50,000 --> 00:40:54,040 This icon of rugged beauty can turn against its visitors. 488 00:40:57,160 --> 00:41:01,960 5 June, 2015, dawned sunny with clear blue skies. 489 00:41:04,400 --> 00:41:08,280 187 climbers were already on the mountain slopes. 490 00:41:09,320 --> 00:41:13,360 A group of schoolchildren were climbing down the via ferrata - 491 00:41:13,520 --> 00:41:15,000 Italian for "the iron way" - 492 00:41:15,160 --> 00:41:18,280 a mountain route equipped with steel cables, ladders 493 00:41:18,440 --> 00:41:20,000 and other fixed anchors. 494 00:41:28,400 --> 00:41:32,680 At 7:15am, all hell broke loose. 495 00:41:32,840 --> 00:41:36,760 (MOUNTAIN RUMBLES) 496 00:41:52,920 --> 00:41:56,800 A violent earthquake struck, measuring six on the Richter scale, 497 00:41:56,960 --> 00:41:59,160 with an epicentre close to the mountain 498 00:41:59,320 --> 00:42:01,720 and only 10km beneath the ground. 499 00:42:04,960 --> 00:42:08,880 When the terrible shaking stopped, 18 people lay dead. 500 00:42:19,960 --> 00:42:22,240 But the earthquake hasn't deterred climbers. 501 00:42:22,400 --> 00:42:24,120 Over 50,000 of them 502 00:42:24,280 --> 00:42:27,880 continue to climb Borneo's highest mountain every year. 503 00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:44,720 The last 90 metres to the summit, Low's Peak, 504 00:42:44,880 --> 00:42:49,120 is a scramble up over almost vertical jagged and loose rocks. 505 00:43:23,040 --> 00:43:25,320 This is the reward. 506 00:43:25,480 --> 00:43:27,920 a breathtaking vista of granite peaks 507 00:43:28,080 --> 00:43:30,840 reaching for the sky as far as the eye can see. 508 00:44:06,000 --> 00:44:10,160 As climbers leave, the majestic Mount Kinabalu casts its shadow 509 00:44:10,320 --> 00:44:12,480 over the surrounding plains. 510 00:44:24,040 --> 00:44:25,480 Malaysia - 511 00:44:25,640 --> 00:44:28,640 a land of stunning beauty and diversity. 512 00:44:30,160 --> 00:44:35,040 A rich tapestry of peoples, cultures and faiths. 513 00:44:37,160 --> 00:44:39,520 But this intricate pattern can be disrupted 514 00:44:39,680 --> 00:44:44,320 by the unpredictable forces of nature and by human strife. 515 00:44:45,600 --> 00:44:48,280 As Malaysia strides into the future, 516 00:44:48,440 --> 00:44:51,200 it must continue to revere its rich heritage 517 00:44:51,360 --> 00:44:56,480 and protect one of the most remarkable landscapes in the world. 518 00:45:06,600 --> 00:45:09,600 Captions by Red Bee Media (c) SBS Australia 2019 43663

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