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VOICEOVER: Malaysia,
known to ancient mariners
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as "the land where the winds meet,"
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has lured sailors, traders
and navigators
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00:00:10,200 --> 00:00:12,200
to her shores for centuries.
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Here, kingdoms rose and fell,
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players in the flow of
global commerce, power and faith
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00:00:21,840 --> 00:00:24,360
leaving their stamp
on the extraordinary mix
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of cultures and people
that make up the nation.
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It's a land linked by water,
seas and rivers to lush heartlands
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and remote and forbidding interiors.
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Today, Malaysia is undergoing
a massive transformation.
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Join us on an epic journey
from the air,
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00:00:47,960 --> 00:00:53,160
as we reveal one of the most
modern states of 21st century Asia.
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00:01:21,720 --> 00:01:25,880
Once, Malaysia was almost
completely covered in rainforest.
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Its jungle, more than
130 million years old,
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is among the most ancient forests
in the world.
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Archaeological evidence suggests
human habitation
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for hundreds of thousands of years.
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The Orang Asli,
Malaysia's first known inhabitants,
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arrived in successive waves
from Africa
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more than 25,000 years ago.
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They made the forbidding rainforest
their domain.
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At the end of the first millennium,
they were followed by people
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from elsewhere
in the Malay Archipelago.
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The new arrivals settled along
the coast of the Malayan Peninsula.
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The villages of these farmers
and fishermen
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were often at the mouths of rivers
that fed into the Strait of Malacca -
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then and now, the key maritime route
between India and China.
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It's still the thriving route
that it was all those centuries ago.
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And at the heart of
this shipping mecca was Malacca,
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founded by a Malay prince
around the 1400s.
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Malacca soon attracted traders
from as far away as China,
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India and the Arab world
to become the emporium of the East.
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The lure was spices.
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00:03:07,440 --> 00:03:10,320
Chinese traders
brought porcelain and silk.
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00:03:10,480 --> 00:03:13,640
Indian ships arrived laden
with paper and cloth.
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00:03:15,240 --> 00:03:18,280
Arab traders brought
exotic fragrances
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to make perfumes and medicines.
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00:03:21,960 --> 00:03:25,240
By the early 1500s,
the Sultan of Malacca
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presided from his palace
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over the most important port
of the region.
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But the city's fame
also brought dangers.
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In 1511, Portuguese invaders
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overthrew the Sultan
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00:03:38,400 --> 00:03:40,880
and imposed their political
control on the city.
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The Porta de Santiago gate
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is one of the few reminders today
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of that Portuguese presence
in Malacca.
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It wasn't just political control
that the invaders imposed.
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00:03:59,600 --> 00:04:02,200
They also brought
their faith, Catholicism.
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00:04:03,760 --> 00:04:06,240
The ruins of St Paul's Church,
built in 1521,
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00:04:06,400 --> 00:04:09,800
are a reminder
of that Portuguese domination.
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Just as St Paul's Church
decayed over time,
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00:04:20,680 --> 00:04:23,840
so too did Portuguese rule
in Malacca.
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As Lisbon tightened
its purse strings,
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its distant colony
became vulnerable to new threats.
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The Dutch had designs on Malacca.
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In 1640 they began
a siege of the city
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that was to cost them 1,000 men.
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00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:51,560
Weakened by the prolonged assault,
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the Portuguese surrendered the city
in January, 1641.
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00:04:59,000 --> 00:05:02,760
The Dutch proceeded to rebuild
Malacca in their own image.
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00:05:04,440 --> 00:05:06,640
This is the Stadthuys -
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the oldest remaining Dutch structure
in the East.
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00:05:09,280 --> 00:05:13,960
Completed in 1660, it served
as the Governor's residence.
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00:05:17,480 --> 00:05:20,240
The Dutch carried out
an extensive building program,
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establishing a planned city
along the river.
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Shop-houses and townhouses
sprang up along the banks.
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00:05:30,160 --> 00:05:34,000
The Dutch were intolerant of
the Catholic faith in the new colony
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and built a grand Protestant shrine,
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on the site of an earlier
Portuguese church.
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A new master had arrived in town.
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This little Holland in far-off
Malacca thrived as a Dutch outpost
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00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:02,960
for more than a century-and-a-half,
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00:06:03,120 --> 00:06:06,120
but the increasingly high taxes
of the new colonial ruler
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forced many European merchants
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to seek out
other ports of opportunity.
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A third colonial power, Britain,
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was determined to get
a foothold in the region.
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It negotiated an agreement
with the Sultan of Kedah,
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in the north of the peninsula,
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to establish a base on
the island of Penang in 1786.
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The capital, George Town,
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has the largest collection
of traditional shop-houses
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in all of South-east Asia.
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00:06:47,720 --> 00:06:51,360
The British stamped their
architectural presence on Penang
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with a flourish.
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The makeover and the free-port trade
energising Penang
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attracted a multitude of races
to descend on George Town.
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Each community was assigned
an enclave,
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with Malay settlers placed in one of
the oldest precincts, Acheh Street.
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00:07:18,480 --> 00:07:20,680
The area was dominated
by the mosque,
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built in the early 19th century
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00:07:23,080 --> 00:07:26,320
by a spice-trading
Achenese prince of Arab descent.
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Chinese immigrants who flooded
onto the island
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formed clan communities,
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drawn together
by common ancestry and dialect.
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They were wild times.
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Secret societies proliferated,
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fighting for control of the island's
gambling, opium and labour markets.
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The Chinese clans
built their own strongholds,
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with magnificent temples
marking their territory.
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The most imposing
is the Khoo Kongsi,
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00:08:02,240 --> 00:08:04,400
which stands in
the granite-paved compound
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of Cannon Square.
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00:08:06,320 --> 00:08:09,200
The square gets its name
from the nine-day street battle
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that raged in its vicinity
during the Penang Riots of 1867,
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when rival clans
fought for control of the city.
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00:08:20,400 --> 00:08:22,640
As with most Chinese temples,
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the roof is
the dominant architectural feature.
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00:08:27,640 --> 00:08:30,000
Thousands of porcelain shards
from broken bowls
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are used in decorative
three-dimensional motifs.
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00:08:40,200 --> 00:08:43,080
The most splendid of
the roof guardians is the dragon -
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00:08:43,240 --> 00:08:46,240
a potent symbol
of good fortune and power.
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00:08:58,360 --> 00:09:02,400
A large Indian community
was also drawn to George Town.
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00:09:02,560 --> 00:09:06,200
Once a year, the Hindu
thanksgiving festival of Thaipusam
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is celebrated in the city.
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00:09:11,840 --> 00:09:15,720
The centrepiece of the event
is a procession by a silver chariot.
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00:09:15,880 --> 00:09:18,640
It travels 7km
across the town
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00:09:18,800 --> 00:09:20,960
bearing a statue of Lord Muruga,
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00:09:21,120 --> 00:09:25,200
the Hindu god of war
and vanquisher of evil.
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00:09:28,120 --> 00:09:30,600
Throughout the day,
the chariot stops
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00:09:30,760 --> 00:09:33,600
to allow thousands of devotees
to present offerings,
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00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:37,920
including trays of flowers,
fruit, incense and betel leaves.
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00:09:48,840 --> 00:09:50,880
Before the chariot arrives,
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thousands of coconuts
are smashed on the ground
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in an act of purification.
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00:10:01,160 --> 00:10:03,000
The smashing of the coconuts
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00:10:03,160 --> 00:10:05,680
symbolises the breaking
of one's ego,
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00:10:05,840 --> 00:10:08,320
while the coconut water inside
represents purity
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00:10:08,480 --> 00:10:10,680
and a cleansing of the soul.
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00:10:15,760 --> 00:10:19,120
The procession has been held
annually in George Town
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00:10:19,280 --> 00:10:21,600
for more than 150 years.
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00:10:28,560 --> 00:10:31,400
As the chariot approaches
its final destination,
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00:10:31,560 --> 00:10:33,800
it passes through streets
lined with stalls
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00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:35,440
overflowing with Indian snacks
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00:10:35,600 --> 00:10:38,520
and curries
for the hordes of devotees.
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00:10:43,320 --> 00:10:47,120
After more than 16 hours,
the chariot completes its journey
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at the Waterfall Hill Temple.
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00:10:51,520 --> 00:10:54,120
Followers then climb
the 513 steps
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00:10:54,280 --> 00:10:56,200
to the hilltop temple
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00:10:56,360 --> 00:11:00,000
to offer their prayers for
a better life to Lord Subramaniam,
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00:11:00,160 --> 00:11:03,080
one of the many names of Lord Muruga.
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00:11:10,681 --> 00:11:12,841
It was here in the State of Perak
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00:11:13,001 --> 00:11:15,001
that the British
extended their control
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00:11:15,161 --> 00:11:18,721
to the Malayan Peninsula in 1875.
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00:11:18,881 --> 00:11:21,041
The Straits Settlements governor
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00:11:21,201 --> 00:11:23,441
signed a treaty with
the local Sultan
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00:11:23,601 --> 00:11:26,081
that placed Perak
under British protection.
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00:11:30,401 --> 00:11:32,721
The Sultan accepted
a British resident
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00:11:32,881 --> 00:11:35,161
whose advice had to be sought
and acted upon
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00:11:35,321 --> 00:11:38,481
for all matters other than
Malay religion and customs.
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00:11:40,761 --> 00:11:45,441
The Perak sultans resided here,
in the royal town of Kuala Kangsar.
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00:11:51,321 --> 00:11:54,681
Their lineage descended
from the old ruling house of Melaka
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00:11:54,841 --> 00:11:56,961
from the early 1600s.
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00:11:58,761 --> 00:12:02,361
The palace is a wondrous mix
of Islamic and Art Deco styles
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00:12:02,521 --> 00:12:05,961
and is still the official residence
of the Head of State,
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the Sultan of Perak.
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00:12:15,561 --> 00:12:18,761
The Ubudiah mosque is
Perak's most famous landmark.
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00:12:24,121 --> 00:12:28,801
It was completed in 1917,
but construction didn't go smoothly.
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00:12:28,961 --> 00:12:31,401
A couple of rogue elephants ran amok,
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ruining the Italian marble floor.
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00:12:35,801 --> 00:12:40,121
The outbreak of the First World War
also caused delays.
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Generations of sultans
are buried here,
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looking down from the hilltop
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00:12:50,241 --> 00:12:52,241
on the rice paddy fields.
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00:12:58,961 --> 00:13:01,601
Rice is a staple food in Malaysia,
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00:13:01,761 --> 00:13:05,441
and an integral part
of Malaysian culture and beliefs.
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00:13:08,161 --> 00:13:10,561
Many rites and ceremonies are devoted
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00:13:10,721 --> 00:13:13,961
to appeasing the spirit
that inhabits the rice.
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00:13:18,041 --> 00:13:20,441
Once tended and cropped by hand,
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the rice fields are now
harvested by machine.
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00:13:30,561 --> 00:13:34,441
Perak once possessed the richest
tin deposits in the world.
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00:13:34,601 --> 00:13:37,481
With the invention of
the tin can in 1810,
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tin production in Malaya exploded.
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The evidence of that tin boom
is still seen today
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in the disused mining ponds
that dot the landscape.
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00:13:58,401 --> 00:14:02,961
Initially, thousands of Chinese
speculators descended on Perak
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00:14:03,121 --> 00:14:05,761
to plunder the lucrative deposits.
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00:14:05,921 --> 00:14:09,121
By the early 20th century,
European mining companies
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had seized the opportunity
to dominate the industry.
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00:14:13,441 --> 00:14:15,641
The British introduced
the tin dredge -
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00:14:15,801 --> 00:14:19,521
a large floating steel factory
supported on pontoons.
184
00:14:24,881 --> 00:14:30,001
This dredge, known as TT5,
started mining in 1938.
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00:14:30,161 --> 00:14:33,161
It was then one of
the biggest in the world.
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00:14:42,041 --> 00:14:44,001
Run on diesel, the dredge could dig
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00:14:44,161 --> 00:14:46,841
as deep as the height
of a ten-storey building
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00:14:47,001 --> 00:14:50,401
and extract up to 90%
of the tin in the soil.
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00:14:55,521 --> 00:14:59,761
Buckets on a chain scooped earth
from the depths of the pond
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00:14:59,921 --> 00:15:01,681
up to a revolving extraction drum
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00:15:01,841 --> 00:15:03,881
that separated the tin deposits
from the soil.
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00:15:08,481 --> 00:15:11,481
The dredge ceased operating in 1982,
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00:15:11,641 --> 00:15:14,521
when the tin finally ran out.
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00:15:29,681 --> 00:15:33,441
Tin wasn't the only resource
that changed the Perak landscape.
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00:15:36,321 --> 00:15:39,681
In the 1870s, seed stock
smuggled out of Brazil
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to London's Kew Gardens
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00:15:41,601 --> 00:15:44,441
was to change
the face of the nation forever.
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00:15:46,001 --> 00:15:48,161
Rubber had arrived.
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00:15:50,121 --> 00:15:52,241
Inspired by the invention
of the motor car,
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00:15:52,401 --> 00:15:54,801
rubber was suddenly in demand.
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00:15:56,081 --> 00:15:58,521
Plantations sprang up all over Perak.
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00:16:08,921 --> 00:16:13,041
By the 1930s, Malaya was producing
half of the world's rubber.
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00:16:15,401 --> 00:16:17,521
British planters made Malaya
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00:16:17,681 --> 00:16:20,681
Britain's richest colony
of the time.
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00:16:23,961 --> 00:16:26,641
As they also did in India,
the hills offered the British
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00:16:26,801 --> 00:16:29,201
a refuge from the tropical heat.
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00:16:29,361 --> 00:16:32,641
Little pockets of England
emerged on the hilltops,
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00:16:32,801 --> 00:16:35,001
like this one at Fraser's Hill.
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00:16:41,281 --> 00:16:44,721
The Cameron Highlands
also attracted British settlers.
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00:16:48,721 --> 00:16:53,401
Discovered by William Cameron
on a mapping expedition in 1885,
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00:16:53,561 --> 00:16:56,241
the plateau was soon claimed
by tea planters.
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00:17:16,841 --> 00:17:20,841
The tea plants, mainly Darjeeling,
came from India.
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00:17:21,001 --> 00:17:23,441
Many of them
are still productive today.
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00:17:33,201 --> 00:17:36,521
Plucking tea is a perilous pursuit.
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00:17:36,681 --> 00:17:40,041
The workers must brave slopes
steeper than 45 degrees.
216
00:17:52,441 --> 00:17:55,161
Tea-pluckers need to know
when the leaves are ready
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00:17:55,321 --> 00:17:58,681
and pick them when they are tender
and full of flavour.
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00:18:09,281 --> 00:18:11,561
Just as industry developed Perak,
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00:18:11,721 --> 00:18:15,881
the city of Kuala Lumpur came out
of a resource boom in the 1870s.
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00:18:18,721 --> 00:18:22,241
It was tin especially that attracted
Chinese miners and traders
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00:18:22,401 --> 00:18:25,601
to where the Klang
and Gombak rivers converged.
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00:18:29,001 --> 00:18:32,481
They set up camp there
and called it Kuala Lumpur -
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00:18:32,641 --> 00:18:35,201
Malay for "muddy confluence".
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00:18:39,281 --> 00:18:41,441
The township soon began to grow.
225
00:18:43,001 --> 00:18:46,401
In 1880, the British Resident,
Sir Frank Swettenham,
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00:18:46,561 --> 00:18:50,721
made Kuala Lumpur the administrative
capital of the State of Selangor.
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00:18:53,081 --> 00:18:55,881
He immediately set about
demolishing the ramshackle shanties
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00:18:56,041 --> 00:18:58,481
and rebuilding the town.
229
00:19:08,601 --> 00:19:12,641
In 1894, construction began
on the Government Offices.
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00:19:12,801 --> 00:19:16,201
As a time capsule, the governor
placed some tin coins
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00:19:16,361 --> 00:19:20,081
and a copy of the Selangor Journal
beneath the foundation stone.
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00:19:24,361 --> 00:19:27,481
The magnificent structure required
the founding of a new factory
233
00:19:27,641 --> 00:19:30,201
to supply its four million bricks.
234
00:19:30,361 --> 00:19:33,321
It was completed in 1897.
235
00:19:37,521 --> 00:19:39,921
The Government Offices faced
the Tudor gables
236
00:19:40,081 --> 00:19:41,921
of the Selangor Club.
237
00:19:42,081 --> 00:19:45,761
Between them was the Padang -
Malay for 'field' -
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00:19:45,921 --> 00:19:48,401
which served as
the club's cricket ground.
239
00:19:54,001 --> 00:19:57,481
Today, the Padang is called
Dataran Merdeka -
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00:19:57,641 --> 00:19:59,561
Independence Square.
(BELLS RING)
241
00:19:59,721 --> 00:20:02,841
It was here, on the 31 August, 1957,
242
00:20:03,001 --> 00:20:05,961
that the sun set on British Malaya.
243
00:20:07,121 --> 00:20:09,641
At midnight,
the Union Flag was lowered
244
00:20:09,801 --> 00:20:13,041
and the Federation of Malaya
was born.
245
00:20:17,321 --> 00:20:20,201
This was also where the new nation
of Malaysia was founded
246
00:20:20,361 --> 00:20:23,681
on the 16th of September, 1963.
247
00:20:25,521 --> 00:20:28,281
On that day, the former
Crown Colonies of Singapore,
248
00:20:28,441 --> 00:20:32,001
North Borneo, and Sarawak
all joined the Federation.
249
00:20:39,681 --> 00:20:42,401
But the union with Singapore
was short-lived.
250
00:20:42,561 --> 00:20:46,241
Following political differences,
Singapore was expelled from Malaysia
251
00:20:46,401 --> 00:20:50,361
in 1965 and became
an independent city-state.
252
00:20:58,401 --> 00:21:00,761
This is not an umbrella or a fan.
253
00:21:00,921 --> 00:21:05,361
It's the roof of the Masjid Negara,
the National Mosque.
254
00:21:08,801 --> 00:21:10,921
It was built as a national symbol
255
00:21:11,081 --> 00:21:14,761
when Kuala Lumpur embarked on
a building boom after independence.
256
00:21:20,601 --> 00:21:22,881
The roof, shaped like
an open umbrella,
257
00:21:23,041 --> 00:21:25,361
replaced the traditional dome.
258
00:21:25,521 --> 00:21:29,281
Its 16-pointed star shape protects
the grand prayer hall below.
259
00:21:36,081 --> 00:21:38,601
Rising from
a rectangular pool of water,
260
00:21:38,761 --> 00:21:41,441
the minaret resembles
a closed umbrella.
261
00:21:45,001 --> 00:21:48,401
Five times a day,
the Muslim call to prayer
262
00:21:48,561 --> 00:21:50,601
resonates throughout the area.
263
00:21:54,961 --> 00:22:00,001
Muslims account for more than 60%
of Malaysia's 31 million people,
264
00:22:00,161 --> 00:22:03,081
and Islam is the official religion.
265
00:22:03,241 --> 00:22:06,401
Religious freedom is guaranteed
for all other beliefs,
266
00:22:06,561 --> 00:22:09,241
with certain restrictions.
267
00:22:11,321 --> 00:22:14,601
By the early 1990s,
an unprecedented economic boom
268
00:22:14,761 --> 00:22:18,401
encouraged the country to believe
that it could do anything.
269
00:22:18,561 --> 00:22:22,161
It became one of the fastest-growing
economies in Asia.
270
00:22:26,041 --> 00:22:30,161
Under the enthusiastic leadership
of Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad,
271
00:22:30,321 --> 00:22:33,921
the catchphrase
"Malaysia Can Do It" took hold.
272
00:22:34,081 --> 00:22:35,721
Even the sky wasn't the limit.
273
00:22:39,761 --> 00:22:42,001
Breaking records was all the rage,
274
00:22:42,161 --> 00:22:43,841
with the KL Tower becoming
275
00:22:44,001 --> 00:22:47,961
the tallest communications facility
in South-east Asia.
276
00:22:48,121 --> 00:22:51,481
But the completion of
the Petronas Towers in 1998
277
00:22:51,641 --> 00:22:53,841
put that in the shade.
278
00:22:56,001 --> 00:22:58,001
The 88-storey towers
279
00:22:58,161 --> 00:23:01,361
were the world's tallest building
until 2004.
280
00:23:03,521 --> 00:23:05,481
The Petronas Towers are still
281
00:23:05,641 --> 00:23:09,121
the tallest identical structures
in the world.
282
00:23:27,401 --> 00:23:30,201
The towers are linked
by a double-decker skybridge
283
00:23:30,361 --> 00:23:32,881
on the 41st and 42nd floors.
284
00:23:33,041 --> 00:23:36,321
It is one of the highest
two-storey bridges in the world.
285
00:23:40,521 --> 00:23:43,481
Mahathir Mohamad promised
that the building
286
00:23:43,641 --> 00:23:45,881
would symbolise
the nation's determination,
287
00:23:46,041 --> 00:23:49,201
confidence, optimism and energy.
288
00:24:02,316 --> 00:24:04,796
The economic boom of the early 1990s
289
00:24:04,956 --> 00:24:07,676
gave Malaysia a new-found confidence.
290
00:24:10,036 --> 00:24:13,676
Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad
seized the moment.
291
00:24:19,476 --> 00:24:23,556
He committed his government
to building a brand-new city,
292
00:24:23,716 --> 00:24:25,996
that would not only
relieve congestion
293
00:24:26,156 --> 00:24:28,196
and overcrowding in Kuala Lumpur,
294
00:24:28,356 --> 00:24:31,196
but would also be the new seat
of government and administration.
295
00:24:33,836 --> 00:24:38,276
Putrajaya is 50 minutes south
of the centre of Kuala Lumpur.
296
00:24:38,436 --> 00:24:41,756
Construction began in 1995.
297
00:24:45,676 --> 00:24:47,676
An urban planning showcase,
298
00:24:47,836 --> 00:24:50,596
Putrajaya was designed
as a garden city.
299
00:25:02,316 --> 00:25:05,276
The Islamic influence is everywhere.
300
00:25:06,756 --> 00:25:09,596
The Putra Mosque took inspiration
from the Middle East.
301
00:25:09,756 --> 00:25:11,956
Its 116-metre minaret
302
00:25:12,116 --> 00:25:15,476
is influenced by the design
of the Sheikh Omar mosque in Baghdad,
303
00:25:15,636 --> 00:25:18,236
while its basement wall
resembles that
304
00:25:18,396 --> 00:25:22,036
of the King Hassan Mosque
in Casablanca, Morocco.
305
00:25:24,196 --> 00:25:26,116
Made of rose-tinted granite,
306
00:25:26,276 --> 00:25:29,196
the mosque can accommodate
more than 15,000 people.
307
00:25:34,356 --> 00:25:37,676
The Prime Minister's building
faces a grand boulevard
308
00:25:37,836 --> 00:25:41,516
modelled on the Champs-Elysees
but three times as long.
309
00:25:50,316 --> 00:25:52,876
At the southern end, 6km away,
310
00:25:53,036 --> 00:25:54,996
is a convention centre -
311
00:25:55,156 --> 00:25:56,996
an innovative modern structure
312
00:25:57,156 --> 00:25:59,836
shaped like the eye
of a traditional royal belt.
313
00:26:04,556 --> 00:26:07,996
Putrajaya was largely funded
by revenue from Petronas,
314
00:26:08,156 --> 00:26:10,916
the state oil and gas corporation.
315
00:26:11,076 --> 00:26:13,076
A Fortune 500 company,
316
00:26:13,236 --> 00:26:15,876
Petronas dominates
Malaysia's economic landscape.
317
00:26:16,036 --> 00:26:18,116
It has the sole right
318
00:26:18,276 --> 00:26:21,196
to develop the country's
rich oil and gas fields.
319
00:26:28,196 --> 00:26:29,956
Kerteh, in the State of Terengganu,
320
00:26:30,116 --> 00:26:31,956
is the company's base
321
00:26:32,116 --> 00:26:34,716
for its petrochemical production
and refineries.
322
00:26:47,556 --> 00:26:51,196
The east coast of Malaysia
remains something of a backwater.
323
00:26:59,196 --> 00:27:01,636
Known for its long, sandy shorelines,
324
00:27:01,796 --> 00:27:03,876
the east coast might be
on a different planet
325
00:27:04,036 --> 00:27:07,756
from the populous, hectic
and industrialised west coast.
326
00:27:14,956 --> 00:27:18,436
The locals here have fished
these waters for generations.
327
00:27:18,596 --> 00:27:22,436
The South China Sea provides them
with a bountiful living.
328
00:27:28,036 --> 00:27:31,596
The monsoonal seasons
dictate the work cycle.
329
00:27:33,436 --> 00:27:35,996
When the weather allows,
the men head to sea
330
00:27:36,156 --> 00:27:38,876
while the women
dry and salt the catch.
331
00:27:45,396 --> 00:27:47,596
But from November to February,
332
00:27:47,756 --> 00:27:50,436
fierce monsoonal winds and rains
bring huge waves,
333
00:27:50,596 --> 00:27:52,876
forcing the fishermen
to repair their boats and nets
334
00:27:53,036 --> 00:27:55,196
in the sheltered lagoons.
335
00:28:02,636 --> 00:28:06,036
The monsoon also wears away
precious habitats
336
00:28:06,196 --> 00:28:08,996
and changes the landscape
of the coastline.
337
00:28:18,556 --> 00:28:23,236
Over 800km to the east
lies Asia's biggest island -
338
00:28:23,396 --> 00:28:27,676
Borneo, home to the Malaysian states
of Sabah and Sarawak.
339
00:28:29,516 --> 00:28:32,236
Borneo was once part
of the Asian mainland.
340
00:28:32,396 --> 00:28:35,036
But as sea levels rose
at the end of the ice age,
341
00:28:35,196 --> 00:28:37,396
much of this landmass was drowned,
342
00:28:37,556 --> 00:28:41,036
leaving behind
a new world of islands.
343
00:28:42,876 --> 00:28:47,356
This dynamic world,
scarred by volcanic eruptions
344
00:28:47,516 --> 00:28:51,196
and earthquakes, shaped people's
lives for thousands of years.
345
00:28:53,356 --> 00:28:56,916
Between islands,
trade networks were born.
346
00:29:00,476 --> 00:29:03,396
Bukit Tengkorak -
"Skull Hill" in Sabah -
347
00:29:03,556 --> 00:29:06,156
was a thriving community
of merchants and craftsmen
348
00:29:06,316 --> 00:29:07,716
3,000 years ago.
349
00:29:07,876 --> 00:29:12,316
Archaeologists have uncovered
a remarkable relic from those times -
350
00:29:12,476 --> 00:29:16,236
the once-precious mineral, obsidian.
351
00:29:18,836 --> 00:29:21,436
This volcanic glass was used
in cutting-tools
352
00:29:21,596 --> 00:29:24,516
by the early inhabitants of Sabah.
353
00:29:27,036 --> 00:29:29,556
Remarkably, the find
is believed to have come
354
00:29:29,716 --> 00:29:34,356
from 3,500 kilometres away
in Papua New Guinea,
355
00:29:34,516 --> 00:29:38,276
suggesting that people travelled
from the Pacific to Borneo
356
00:29:38,436 --> 00:29:40,596
during the Neolithic Period.
357
00:29:44,036 --> 00:29:46,316
Bukit Tengkorak may have been
one of the biggest
358
00:29:46,476 --> 00:29:48,916
pottery and ceramic
manufacturing sites
359
00:29:49,076 --> 00:29:50,876
in the Asian world.
360
00:29:51,036 --> 00:29:53,356
Tens of thousands
of pottery fragments
361
00:29:53,516 --> 00:29:55,836
are scattered across the site.
362
00:30:01,236 --> 00:30:05,636
This traditional technology is
still used today by the Bajau Laut,
363
00:30:05,796 --> 00:30:07,476
or sea gypsies,
364
00:30:07,636 --> 00:30:09,156
many of whom live in stilt villages
365
00:30:09,316 --> 00:30:13,036
in the fishing town of Semporna
and the seas beyond.
366
00:30:22,156 --> 00:30:25,836
In this island world,
it is the ocean and its riches
367
00:30:25,996 --> 00:30:28,196
that shape the sea gypsies' lives.
368
00:30:34,676 --> 00:30:36,996
In the early 20th century,
369
00:30:37,156 --> 00:30:39,156
the British North Borneo Company
370
00:30:39,316 --> 00:30:41,876
attempted to control the mobility
of these sea nomads
371
00:30:42,036 --> 00:30:45,396
by forcing them to register
their boats so they were traceable.
372
00:30:45,556 --> 00:30:49,316
Since then, more and more
of the Bajau Laut
373
00:30:49,476 --> 00:30:51,636
have begun to live on the land,
374
00:30:51,796 --> 00:30:56,196
but many maintain their nomadic
way of life even today.
375
00:30:56,356 --> 00:30:58,476
They are often stateless,
376
00:30:58,636 --> 00:31:01,876
and so have no right
to public amenities or schools.
377
00:31:08,476 --> 00:31:10,836
Their children learn
to swim at the same time
378
00:31:10,996 --> 00:31:13,316
as they learn to walk.
379
00:31:17,396 --> 00:31:22,156
The sea gypsies eke out an existence
by fishing with spears and driftnets
380
00:31:22,316 --> 00:31:25,556
in the lush coral gardens
that abound in the region.
381
00:31:35,196 --> 00:31:38,676
The reefs here are some of
the most diverse in the world
382
00:31:38,836 --> 00:31:41,236
and are an important
breeding ground for fish.
383
00:31:47,116 --> 00:31:51,636
To protect these rich waters,
the Tun Sakaran Marine Park
384
00:31:51,796 --> 00:31:53,996
was gazetted in 2004,
385
00:31:54,156 --> 00:31:57,876
protecting an area
half the size of Singapore.
386
00:32:00,836 --> 00:32:03,276
Some parts of the park
have a total fishing ban
387
00:32:03,436 --> 00:32:05,396
to protect the fish stock.
388
00:32:09,276 --> 00:32:13,676
To ensure that the sea gypsy
community has an alternative income,
389
00:32:13,836 --> 00:32:16,316
seaweed farming has been introduced.
390
00:32:24,196 --> 00:32:26,836
It's an ideal match for
the sea gypsies' way of life,
391
00:32:26,996 --> 00:32:30,516
providing an efficient way to battle
food shortages and poverty
392
00:32:30,676 --> 00:32:33,276
while not destroying their lifeline -
393
00:32:33,436 --> 00:32:37,316
the unpolluted marine environment
surrounding the communities.
394
00:32:41,676 --> 00:32:43,876
Once a year, the town of Semporna
395
00:32:44,036 --> 00:32:46,276
transforms into one huge carnival
396
00:32:46,436 --> 00:32:50,116
to celebrate the heritage
of the seafaring Bajau people.
397
00:32:52,276 --> 00:32:56,356
The Lepa Regatta has been celebrated
every year since 1994
398
00:32:56,516 --> 00:33:01,236
to commemorate the Bajau tradition of
building these single-masted boats.
399
00:33:04,596 --> 00:33:07,516
The highlight of the festival
is a competition
400
00:33:07,676 --> 00:33:09,676
to find
the most beautiful Bajau boat,
401
00:33:09,836 --> 00:33:12,396
known as the Lepa-Lepa.
402
00:33:14,636 --> 00:33:17,876
A flotilla of boats
adorned with colourful flags
403
00:33:18,036 --> 00:33:19,876
from the different villages
and islands
404
00:33:20,036 --> 00:33:22,516
descends on the waterfront
to be judged.
405
00:33:24,196 --> 00:33:26,356
The judges are looking
for the best-designed boats
406
00:33:26,516 --> 00:33:29,076
and how decorative
the flags and sails are
407
00:33:29,236 --> 00:33:31,716
that have been passed down
through the generations.
408
00:33:33,436 --> 00:33:35,876
Music and dancing
are also on the menu.
409
00:33:40,436 --> 00:33:44,156
With more than 400 boats vying
for cash prizes
410
00:33:44,316 --> 00:33:47,476
and coveted boat engines,
the two-day extravaganza
411
00:33:47,636 --> 00:33:50,596
draws people from all over
the archipelago
412
00:33:50,756 --> 00:33:54,316
to unwind in a fiesta
of fun and colour.
413
00:34:06,200 --> 00:34:08,840
Much of the State of Sabah
in East Malaysia
414
00:34:09,000 --> 00:34:10,880
was unknown and undiscovered
415
00:34:11,040 --> 00:34:13,320
until just after
the Second World War.
416
00:34:15,960 --> 00:34:18,280
The existence
of this mysterious land
417
00:34:18,440 --> 00:34:20,400
was only revealed by accident
418
00:34:20,560 --> 00:34:22,480
when a British pilot
flew into thick fog.
419
00:34:26,120 --> 00:34:28,440
As the plane emerged
from the clouds,
420
00:34:28,600 --> 00:34:31,440
the pilot was confronted by
a wall of forbidding granite cliffs.
421
00:34:33,280 --> 00:34:37,280
He just avoided death by flying up
and over the jagged cliffs.
422
00:34:44,920 --> 00:34:46,920
In his miraculous escape,
423
00:34:47,080 --> 00:34:49,360
the pilot made
a remarkable discovery -
424
00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:53,440
the lost world of Sabah,
the Maliau Basin.
425
00:34:59,080 --> 00:35:02,400
The basin's forbidding cliffs
protected the area for so long
426
00:35:02,560 --> 00:35:05,640
because they make it
virtually inaccessible.
427
00:35:11,080 --> 00:35:14,400
From the 1960s on,
explorers made three attempts
428
00:35:14,560 --> 00:35:18,280
to scale the escarpments
and discover the treasures within.
429
00:35:18,440 --> 00:35:21,120
Each time, this fortress
defeated them.
430
00:35:25,080 --> 00:35:28,000
The only way in is where
the Maliau River exits the basin.
431
00:35:28,160 --> 00:35:33,160
Even this is guarded by a series
of majestic gorges and waterfalls.
432
00:35:40,200 --> 00:35:43,880
The most spectacular
is the seven-tiered Maliau Falls.
433
00:35:44,040 --> 00:35:45,640
It is known to the local people
434
00:35:45,800 --> 00:35:48,280
as the home of
the mythical water dragon.
435
00:36:13,800 --> 00:36:16,040
The Maliau Basin's inaccessibility
436
00:36:16,200 --> 00:36:18,480
has meant that
its natural secrets
437
00:36:18,640 --> 00:36:21,080
have been hidden
for millions of years.
438
00:36:25,320 --> 00:36:29,760
In 1981, a survey party
from the Sabah Foundation
439
00:36:29,920 --> 00:36:33,040
managed to land in
a helicopter and cut a trail.
440
00:36:33,200 --> 00:36:35,640
This enabled a 43-member expedition
441
00:36:35,800 --> 00:36:39,240
to spend three weeks
in the region in 1988.
442
00:36:43,840 --> 00:36:46,240
Over 100 scientific expeditions
443
00:36:46,400 --> 00:36:49,360
have since entered
this land of the unknown.
444
00:36:49,520 --> 00:36:54,440
What they discovered is
a living laboratory untamed by man.
445
00:37:01,120 --> 00:37:04,760
The forest has over 1,800
rare plant species,
446
00:37:04,920 --> 00:37:07,560
some found nowhere else on Earth.
447
00:37:12,280 --> 00:37:14,960
Within these jungles are some of
448
00:37:15,120 --> 00:37:17,280
the tallest tropical trees
ever recorded,
449
00:37:17,440 --> 00:37:19,640
with heights reaching
over 80 metres -
450
00:37:19,800 --> 00:37:22,480
higher than a 25-storey building.
451
00:37:32,240 --> 00:37:35,960
Every few years, the forest explodes
into a mosaic of colours
452
00:37:36,080 --> 00:37:40,120
as synchronised flowering
and fruiting occur on a large scale.
453
00:37:40,280 --> 00:37:42,520
The trigger for this is still unknown
454
00:37:42,680 --> 00:37:44,400
but it's thought
that the bounty available
455
00:37:44,560 --> 00:37:48,000
becomes too much
for the local animal life to consume.
456
00:37:53,080 --> 00:37:56,720
It's nature's way of ensuring
the survival of the forest.
457
00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:18,600
In Borneo, jungles are not only
made from timber but from stone.
458
00:38:22,040 --> 00:38:25,680
This astonishing stone forest
belongs to Gunung Api,
459
00:38:25,840 --> 00:38:30,160
or Fire Mountain,
at Mulu National Park in Sarawak.
460
00:38:30,320 --> 00:38:32,920
Its rock cover has eroded
on the outside
461
00:38:33,080 --> 00:38:35,640
to form this jungle
of stone pinnacles.
462
00:38:47,200 --> 00:38:49,280
The razor-sharp limestone points
463
00:38:49,440 --> 00:38:53,360
reach up to 50 metres
above the surrounding vegetation.
464
00:38:53,520 --> 00:38:56,880
They have been chiselled out over
the centuries by heavy rainfall
465
00:38:57,040 --> 00:38:59,840
cascading down from
a rock plateau above them.
466
00:39:04,760 --> 00:39:08,800
It was not until 1978 that
Gunung Api was finally conquered
467
00:39:08,960 --> 00:39:12,560
by a climbing party organised
by the Royal Geographic Society
468
00:39:12,720 --> 00:39:14,720
and the Sarawak Government.
469
00:39:14,880 --> 00:39:17,040
Tragedy was narrowly avoided
470
00:39:17,200 --> 00:39:20,320
when a moving boulder
threatened to crush the climbers.
471
00:39:26,600 --> 00:39:29,880
This massive survey
of the Gunung Mulu National Park
472
00:39:30,040 --> 00:39:34,480
also sent 115 scientists
into this amazing lost land
473
00:39:34,640 --> 00:39:37,600
to unearth its secrets
and survey its features.
474
00:39:40,200 --> 00:39:44,080
What they found was
an extraordinary network of caves
475
00:39:44,240 --> 00:39:46,840
that stretched for 150km.
476
00:39:52,120 --> 00:39:55,600
Early European visitors were warned
away from the Mulu Caves
477
00:39:55,760 --> 00:40:00,200
by locals who cautioned that they
were the home of dwarves and ghosts
478
00:40:00,360 --> 00:40:02,360
and a place to be avoided.
479
00:40:06,800 --> 00:40:10,480
Perhaps Borneo's most
impressive geological feature of all
480
00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:14,400
is the massive outcrop of granite
that is Mount Kinabalu.
481
00:40:19,520 --> 00:40:21,960
Rising skywards at about
five millimetres a year,
482
00:40:22,120 --> 00:40:25,000
it is the world's youngest
non-volcanic mountain.
483
00:40:28,880 --> 00:40:31,400
Standing over 4,000 metres high,
484
00:40:31,560 --> 00:40:33,600
the mountain is revered
by the locals
485
00:40:33,760 --> 00:40:35,840
who attribute special qualities
to the peak,
486
00:40:36,000 --> 00:40:39,880
regarding it as the sacred place
of the dead whose spirits rest here.
487
00:40:50,000 --> 00:40:54,040
This icon of rugged beauty
can turn against its visitors.
488
00:40:57,160 --> 00:41:01,960
5 June, 2015,
dawned sunny with clear blue skies.
489
00:41:04,400 --> 00:41:08,280
187 climbers
were already on the mountain slopes.
490
00:41:09,320 --> 00:41:13,360
A group of schoolchildren
were climbing down the via ferrata -
491
00:41:13,520 --> 00:41:15,000
Italian for "the iron way" -
492
00:41:15,160 --> 00:41:18,280
a mountain route equipped
with steel cables, ladders
493
00:41:18,440 --> 00:41:20,000
and other fixed anchors.
494
00:41:28,400 --> 00:41:32,680
At 7:15am, all hell broke loose.
495
00:41:32,840 --> 00:41:36,760
(MOUNTAIN RUMBLES)
496
00:41:52,920 --> 00:41:56,800
A violent earthquake struck,
measuring six on the Richter scale,
497
00:41:56,960 --> 00:41:59,160
with an epicentre
close to the mountain
498
00:41:59,320 --> 00:42:01,720
and only 10km
beneath the ground.
499
00:42:04,960 --> 00:42:08,880
When the terrible shaking stopped,
18 people lay dead.
500
00:42:19,960 --> 00:42:22,240
But the earthquake
hasn't deterred climbers.
501
00:42:22,400 --> 00:42:24,120
Over 50,000 of them
502
00:42:24,280 --> 00:42:27,880
continue to climb Borneo's
highest mountain every year.
503
00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:44,720
The last 90 metres to the summit,
Low's Peak,
504
00:42:44,880 --> 00:42:49,120
is a scramble up over almost vertical
jagged and loose rocks.
505
00:43:23,040 --> 00:43:25,320
This is the reward.
506
00:43:25,480 --> 00:43:27,920
a breathtaking vista of granite peaks
507
00:43:28,080 --> 00:43:30,840
reaching for the sky
as far as the eye can see.
508
00:44:06,000 --> 00:44:10,160
As climbers leave, the majestic
Mount Kinabalu casts its shadow
509
00:44:10,320 --> 00:44:12,480
over the surrounding plains.
510
00:44:24,040 --> 00:44:25,480
Malaysia -
511
00:44:25,640 --> 00:44:28,640
a land of stunning beauty
and diversity.
512
00:44:30,160 --> 00:44:35,040
A rich tapestry of peoples,
cultures and faiths.
513
00:44:37,160 --> 00:44:39,520
But this intricate pattern
can be disrupted
514
00:44:39,680 --> 00:44:44,320
by the unpredictable forces of nature
and by human strife.
515
00:44:45,600 --> 00:44:48,280
As Malaysia strides into the future,
516
00:44:48,440 --> 00:44:51,200
it must continue to revere
its rich heritage
517
00:44:51,360 --> 00:44:56,480
and protect one of the most
remarkable landscapes in the world.
518
00:45:06,600 --> 00:45:09,600
Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) SBS Australia 2019
43663
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