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00:00:12,638 --> 00:00:14,514
Here it comes.
2
00:00:14,515 --> 00:00:15,725
Ah!
3
00:00:17,143 --> 00:00:19,144
I want to hug it.
4
00:00:19,145 --> 00:00:22,147
I'm not in a-- the storm.
This isn't the weather.
5
00:00:22,148 --> 00:00:25,900
This is an actual fog
sculpture here
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00:00:25,901 --> 00:00:28,570
at the Guggenheim Museum
in Bilbao.
7
00:00:28,571 --> 00:00:31,030
The Basque Country
is a global Mecca
8
00:00:31,031 --> 00:00:33,366
for creativity and innovation,
9
00:00:33,367 --> 00:00:36,369
and exchanging ideas
with the rest of the world
10
00:00:36,370 --> 00:00:40,039
is a tradition
that stretches back centuries.
11
00:00:40,040 --> 00:00:42,375
It's very fitting
that this is here
12
00:00:42,376 --> 00:00:46,129
because the Basque people are
so innovative and creative
13
00:00:46,130 --> 00:00:49,424
when it comes to culture
and of course, food.
14
00:00:55,306 --> 00:00:56,806
I'm Eva Longoria.
15
00:00:56,807 --> 00:00:59,226
And I'm a proud
Mexican American.
16
00:01:00,186 --> 00:01:01,478
11 generations ago,
17
00:01:01,479 --> 00:01:03,188
one of my ancestors
18
00:01:03,189 --> 00:01:06,524
left Spain for the new world
and a new life.
19
00:01:06,525 --> 00:01:09,152
400 years later, I'm back.
20
00:01:09,153 --> 00:01:10,862
I'm so excited!
21
00:01:10,863 --> 00:01:12,655
- Salud.
- Salud.
22
00:01:12,656 --> 00:01:15,950
And I'm exploring Spain
and its 17 regions
23
00:01:15,951 --> 00:01:18,453
to see how the land
and its people
24
00:01:18,454 --> 00:01:22,415
have created one of the world's
most exciting cuisines.
25
00:01:22,416 --> 00:01:24,209
I think you know
what you're doing.
26
00:01:24,210 --> 00:01:27,378
The Basques
are Spain's great mystery.
27
00:01:27,379 --> 00:01:30,048
They're the oldest
surviving society in Europe.
28
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So ancient,
that their origins are unknown.
29
00:01:33,135 --> 00:01:35,220
Everything is coming from
my memory,
30
00:01:35,221 --> 00:01:37,223
from the soul of my family.
31
00:01:38,224 --> 00:01:40,099
But they're also
at the modern, cutting edge
32
00:01:40,100 --> 00:01:42,393
of innovation and creativity.
33
00:01:42,394 --> 00:01:44,562
It's very important
to be open-minded.
34
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Right, and I think that's
what makes you guys so special.
35
00:01:47,191 --> 00:01:49,984
Here they speak
the ancient language "Euskara."
36
00:01:51,278 --> 00:01:53,154
And many Basques
37
00:01:53,155 --> 00:01:55,114
don't consider themselves
to be Spanish at all.
38
00:01:55,115 --> 00:01:59,285
Their centuries-old traditions
evoke strong emotions.
39
00:02:06,669 --> 00:02:09,295
And here
there are only two ways--
40
00:02:09,296 --> 00:02:11,799
the Basque way
and the wrong way.
41
00:02:15,135 --> 00:02:16,178
{\an8}Ah!
42
00:02:17,638 --> 00:02:19,973
In the kitchen,
this passion has driven
43
00:02:19,974 --> 00:02:21,599
their innovative chefs...
44
00:02:21,600 --> 00:02:23,142
What is this?!
45
00:02:23,143 --> 00:02:25,436
- They ain't got that in Texas.
- No.
46
00:02:25,437 --> 00:02:28,690
...to constantly reinterpret
their culinary heritage...
47
00:02:28,691 --> 00:02:30,108
Look at this.
48
00:02:30,109 --> 00:02:32,277
It's like magic
in front of our eyes.
49
00:02:32,278 --> 00:02:34,864
...into world-renowned
works of art.
50
00:02:35,823 --> 00:02:38,783
{\an8}This is cuisine
at a different level.
51
00:02:38,784 --> 00:02:40,201
I don't know what
I'm going to do after this.
52
00:02:40,202 --> 00:02:43,037
I think we just throw in
the towel, guys.
53
00:02:43,038 --> 00:02:44,664
We have found Spain.
54
00:03:06,186 --> 00:03:09,147
The tiny Basque country is
cut off from the rest of Spain
55
00:03:09,148 --> 00:03:11,774
by soaring mountains.
56
00:03:11,775 --> 00:03:13,985
It's led
to an independent spirit
57
00:03:13,986 --> 00:03:17,488
that has seen them fight back
Roman conquest,
58
00:03:17,489 --> 00:03:20,199
repel Moorish invaders,
59
00:03:20,200 --> 00:03:23,870
rebel against fascist dictator
General Franco,
60
00:03:23,871 --> 00:03:27,498
and overcome decades
of separatist violence
61
00:03:27,499 --> 00:03:29,375
to find the peace
and prosperity
62
00:03:29,376 --> 00:03:30,960
they enjoy today.
63
00:03:30,961 --> 00:03:32,670
and at the region's heart
64
00:03:32,671 --> 00:03:36,090
is the elegant seaside city
of San Sebastian
65
00:03:36,091 --> 00:03:39,261
or "Donostia,"
as the Basque call it.
66
00:03:40,346 --> 00:03:41,763
Hi!
- Hi!
67
00:03:41,764 --> 00:03:44,265
- Nice to meet you.
- Nice to meet you, too.
68
00:03:44,266 --> 00:03:46,643
An American
and San Sebastian.
69
00:03:46,644 --> 00:03:48,686
Food writer, Marti Buckley
70
00:03:48,687 --> 00:03:51,064
has been savoring
every bite here
71
00:03:51,065 --> 00:03:55,401
since trading Alabama
for San Sebastian 15 years ago.
72
00:03:55,402 --> 00:03:57,528
Whenever anybody comes
to visit me in San Sebastian,
73
00:03:57,529 --> 00:03:59,238
the first thing I like to do
is take them for pintxos .
74
00:03:59,239 --> 00:04:00,949
- Oh, really?
- Yes.
75
00:04:00,950 --> 00:04:02,367
It's the best introduction
to the Basque cuisine,
76
00:04:02,368 --> 00:04:03,451
to how people eat here,
77
00:04:03,452 --> 00:04:04,827
to the culture.
- Yeah.
78
00:04:04,828 --> 00:04:06,496
And we just keep going
all night long.
79
00:04:06,497 --> 00:04:08,081
How could it not be?
- I mean, is that the plan?
80
00:04:08,082 --> 00:04:10,584
- That's the plan.
- Great.
81
00:04:14,213 --> 00:04:16,214
Pintxo is Spanish for spike.
82
00:04:16,215 --> 00:04:18,007
And around here,
food on a stick
83
00:04:18,008 --> 00:04:21,177
has been elevated
to an art form.
84
00:04:21,178 --> 00:04:23,554
Locals bounce from bar to bar,
85
00:04:23,555 --> 00:04:27,768
nibbling on pintxos and sipping
Txakoli, the local wine.
86
00:04:31,438 --> 00:04:35,024
So Marty has brought me
to the iconic Casa Valles
87
00:04:35,025 --> 00:04:39,404
the bar that created the first
pintxos back in the 1940's.
88
00:04:39,405 --> 00:04:41,656
So are all pintxos
eaten at a bar?
89
00:04:41,657 --> 00:04:44,033
Yes, standing up
and eating at the bar.
90
00:04:44,034 --> 00:04:45,994
You need to be able to eat it
in 2 or 3 bites
91
00:04:45,995 --> 00:04:47,829
because you're meant
to stay on the move.
92
00:04:47,830 --> 00:04:49,539
One bar, one pintxo ,
move on.
93
00:04:49,540 --> 00:04:52,000
So we are on
the bar crawl of pintxos.
94
00:04:52,001 --> 00:04:54,085
Yes. That's it. This is us.
95
00:04:54,086 --> 00:04:58,089
This is the Gilda an example
of really the earliest pintxo.
96
00:04:58,090 --> 00:05:01,259
It's Manzanilla olive,
some pickled Guindilla peppers,
97
00:05:01,260 --> 00:05:03,678
and the salty
Cantabrian anchovy.
98
00:05:03,679 --> 00:05:05,596
Okay, so you see the shape.
99
00:05:05,597 --> 00:05:07,432
You see how it's
kind of like a woman's body.
100
00:05:07,433 --> 00:05:09,350
- Yeah.
- It's actually named after Rita Hayworth.
101
00:05:09,351 --> 00:05:11,894
Her movie "Gilda".
- Oh, my God.
102
00:05:11,895 --> 00:05:13,730
- Yeah.
- I love Rita Hayworth.
103
00:05:13,731 --> 00:05:16,941
I didn't even know that.
104
00:05:16,942 --> 00:05:19,652
The story goes
that despite censorship
105
00:05:19,653 --> 00:05:21,195
during the fascist regime
106
00:05:21,196 --> 00:05:23,281
of Spain's dictator
General Franco,
107
00:05:23,282 --> 00:05:27,994
Rita Hayworth's 1946 movie
"Gilda" was a sensation.
108
00:05:27,995 --> 00:05:31,330
To some, her allure
showed defiance
109
00:05:31,331 --> 00:05:33,708
against the conservative values
of the time,
110
00:05:33,709 --> 00:05:36,836
inspiring a small rebellion
in the very Basque way
111
00:05:36,837 --> 00:05:39,130
through food.
- Really, the earliest pintxos.
112
00:05:39,131 --> 00:05:42,383
Beautiful. So, is it supposed
to be eaten in one bite?
113
00:05:42,384 --> 00:05:44,719
- Yeah.
- That's pretty big.
114
00:05:44,720 --> 00:05:46,554
Okay, you go first.
So I want to see...
115
00:05:46,555 --> 00:05:50,725
- Okay. Okay.
- Oh, you-- Oh, she's a pintxo expert.
116
00:05:50,726 --> 00:05:53,771
Go ahead and show off.
Okay, I'm gonna try.
117
00:05:56,899 --> 00:05:59,901
- Mm-hmm.
- The flavors blend so well together.
118
00:05:59,902 --> 00:06:02,195
- That is so good.
- It is.
119
00:06:02,196 --> 00:06:05,323
Wow. There's a lot of
different flavors at one time.
120
00:06:05,324 --> 00:06:06,574
That's why you have to eat it
in one bite.
121
00:06:06,575 --> 00:06:10,703
- Yes.
- This is my kind of bar,
122
00:06:10,704 --> 00:06:13,749
my kind of drink,
my kind of food.
123
00:06:18,087 --> 00:06:19,837
San Sebastian is just like
this perfect storm.
124
00:06:19,838 --> 00:06:23,049
It's this place where
you have amazing ingredients.
125
00:06:23,050 --> 00:06:25,051
And then you have
this tradition of cooking,
126
00:06:25,052 --> 00:06:29,388
which has led to, like, this
demand from the Basque people
127
00:06:29,389 --> 00:06:31,933
who hold all the restaurateurs
to a high account.
128
00:06:31,934 --> 00:06:34,519
Today, the pintxo
has evolved beyond the stick,
129
00:06:34,520 --> 00:06:37,063
and the Basque obsession
with eating well
130
00:06:37,064 --> 00:06:41,609
has turned their bar snacks
into world renowned food.
131
00:06:41,610 --> 00:06:44,612
To España.
132
00:06:44,613 --> 00:06:47,073
Hola!
Now, each bar competes
133
00:06:47,074 --> 00:06:48,908
to become the local's favorite.
134
00:06:48,909 --> 00:06:51,369
My favorite pintxo
is delizia.
135
00:06:51,370 --> 00:06:53,371
Oh, what is it? What is--
What is on top of it?
136
00:06:53,372 --> 00:06:56,582
It's got a slice of bread,
a salt cured anchovy,
137
00:06:56,583 --> 00:06:58,167
hard boiled egg, mayonnaise,
138
00:06:58,168 --> 00:07:00,545
and this amazing onion
parsley egg vinaigrette.
139
00:07:00,546 --> 00:07:03,005
{\an8}- Wow.
- This is the secret--
140
00:07:03,006 --> 00:07:05,091
{\an8}secret garnish.
141
00:07:05,092 --> 00:07:07,176
{\an8}Worcestershire sauce.
142
00:07:07,177 --> 00:07:08,803
{\an8}Don't make me say it. I can't--
143
00:07:08,804 --> 00:07:11,556
{\an8}I can't say it any better
than-- than you.
144
00:07:11,557 --> 00:07:13,684
{\an8}- Cheers.
- Cheers.
145
00:07:17,396 --> 00:07:20,524
{\an8}Mmm. So good.
- Wow.
146
00:07:28,824 --> 00:07:30,576
{\an8}The onion, the parsley.
147
00:07:32,536 --> 00:07:33,787
{\an8}Wow.
148
00:07:37,166 --> 00:07:39,458
Owner Jésus serves up
dozens of pintxos
149
00:07:39,459 --> 00:07:41,753
at La Espiga every night.
150
00:07:45,799 --> 00:07:48,259
From staples like deep fried
ruby red peppers
151
00:07:48,260 --> 00:07:50,845
stuffed with meat...
152
00:07:50,846 --> 00:07:54,557
Oh, my God. This one might be my
favorite one on the tour so far.
153
00:07:54,558 --> 00:07:56,475
...to seasonal specials
that change
154
00:07:56,476 --> 00:07:58,519
depending on what
is harvested in the mountains
155
00:07:58,520 --> 00:08:00,397
or caught at sea.
156
00:08:10,157 --> 00:08:13,117
Oh! You gotta try that.
Have you had this one?
157
00:08:13,118 --> 00:08:15,203
This is a life changing trip
for me,
158
00:08:15,204 --> 00:08:17,914
eating so many anchovies.
159
00:08:17,915 --> 00:08:19,999
Why are they so popular
in the Basque Country?
160
00:08:20,000 --> 00:08:21,918
They're a special fish,
161
00:08:21,919 --> 00:08:23,127
'cause the ones this time
of year are at their peak
162
00:08:23,128 --> 00:08:24,879
because they're breeding.
163
00:08:24,880 --> 00:08:26,464
And so they're, like,
nice and rich and fatty.
164
00:08:26,465 --> 00:08:28,008
{\an8}Oh, my God.
165
00:08:31,011 --> 00:08:32,471
{\an8}No, no.
166
00:08:34,431 --> 00:08:37,642
Pintxo bar hopping is central
to Basque identity,
167
00:08:37,643 --> 00:08:39,977
but it's hard not to notice
the similarity
168
00:08:39,978 --> 00:08:43,064
to Spain's
other iconic small plates.
169
00:08:43,065 --> 00:08:47,026
What's the difference
between pintxos and tapas?
170
00:08:47,027 --> 00:08:48,736
Okay,
this is definitely the question
171
00:08:48,737 --> 00:08:50,947
that I get the most--
- Is this controversial?
172
00:08:50,948 --> 00:08:52,615
Am I asking something
controversial?
173
00:08:52,616 --> 00:08:54,242
It's not controversial
per se,
174
00:08:54,243 --> 00:08:56,744
but the tapa, you know,
it's usually, like,
175
00:08:56,745 --> 00:08:59,330
one food item in quantity
on a plate,
176
00:08:59,331 --> 00:09:01,123
whereas the pintxo
is always sort of elaborate
177
00:09:01,124 --> 00:09:02,458
with several ingredients.
- Oh. Oh.
178
00:09:02,459 --> 00:09:03,877
Marti...
179
00:09:06,838 --> 00:09:08,047
{\an8}- Yup. That's it.
- Okay.
180
00:09:08,048 --> 00:09:09,340
{\an8}Don't get that wrong, guys.
181
00:09:09,341 --> 00:09:10,925
- Okay.
- Don't get that wrong.
182
00:09:10,926 --> 00:09:12,677
This is amazing.
Muchas gracias.
183
00:09:12,678 --> 00:09:14,679
Thank you, Jésus.
184
00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:17,807
Here, you have to do
things in a certain style.
185
00:09:17,808 --> 00:09:21,769
And even a bar crawl is an
expression of the Basque way.
186
00:09:32,030 --> 00:09:33,948
For millennia,
the Basque Mountains
187
00:09:33,949 --> 00:09:36,200
have acted like castle walls...
188
00:09:36,201 --> 00:09:38,703
Look at this.
189
00:09:38,704 --> 00:09:41,414
Beautiful.
190
00:09:41,415 --> 00:09:46,335
...dividing Spain's sun-soaked
Mediterranean south...
191
00:09:46,336 --> 00:09:49,255
and this wilder Atlantic north.
192
00:09:51,508 --> 00:09:55,928
And in these mountains
is the town of Tolosa,
193
00:09:55,929 --> 00:09:58,681
a medieval trading point
for Basques meeting merchants
194
00:09:58,682 --> 00:10:01,392
from the rest of Spain.
195
00:10:01,393 --> 00:10:04,812
Its market has been running
since the 13th century,
196
00:10:04,813 --> 00:10:07,356
and today,
the Mercado del Tinglado
197
00:10:07,357 --> 00:10:09,608
is still filled with treasures.
198
00:10:16,450 --> 00:10:20,578
Oh, my God. I want everything.
199
00:10:20,579 --> 00:10:23,956
This is a dangerous place to be
when you've skipped breakfast.
200
00:10:23,957 --> 00:10:26,418
Honey? Is this honey?
201
00:10:30,797 --> 00:10:33,049
{\an8}Okay, I'm gonna grab a fuet.
202
00:10:38,055 --> 00:10:39,890
{\an8}This is my favorite thing.
203
00:10:41,808 --> 00:10:43,934
{\an8}No, no...
- Si.
204
00:10:46,521 --> 00:10:48,814
I did get some good stuff.
205
00:10:48,815 --> 00:10:51,108
I got some kind
of lemon cheese.
206
00:10:51,109 --> 00:10:52,777
I'm-- I'm so happy.
207
00:10:52,778 --> 00:10:54,653
But I actually didn't
come here to eat.
208
00:10:54,654 --> 00:11:02,453
I came here to find
these very famous Tolosa beans.
209
00:11:02,454 --> 00:11:06,165
As a Texican, I consider
myself a bean aficionado.
210
00:11:06,166 --> 00:11:08,459
Hola.
211
00:11:08,460 --> 00:11:10,920
- Que va?
- How are you?
212
00:11:10,921 --> 00:11:13,756
So I'm meeting
Javier Rivero Yarza,
213
00:11:13,757 --> 00:11:15,716
one of the town's best chefs,
214
00:11:15,717 --> 00:11:18,803
to figure out why their beans
are so beloved.
215
00:11:18,804 --> 00:11:21,347
We are going to prepare
our famous black bean--
216
00:11:21,348 --> 00:11:23,391
- These are them!
- These are the black beans.
217
00:11:23,392 --> 00:11:25,768
- Oh, my God.
- We have different varieties
218
00:11:25,769 --> 00:11:28,979
of beans in Spain,
but for us, the most special one
219
00:11:28,980 --> 00:11:31,399
is the black bean from Tolosa.
- Tolosa.
220
00:11:31,400 --> 00:11:33,234
- We call it the black pearl.
- Oh.
221
00:11:33,235 --> 00:11:36,737
You call it the black pearl?
- Or in Basque, babarruna.
222
00:11:36,738 --> 00:11:39,031
- Babarruna.
- Babarruna.
223
00:11:39,032 --> 00:11:41,534
I do have some money.
224
00:11:41,535 --> 00:11:44,161
You are not going to buy
any much more product with this.
225
00:11:45,872 --> 00:11:48,249
I spent it all on my cheese.
226
00:11:51,503 --> 00:11:55,047
To cook them, Javi
is taking me to a txoko,
227
00:11:55,048 --> 00:11:58,093
one of the Basques
most unique institutions.
228
00:11:59,428 --> 00:12:03,681
Hola! Wow, this is beautiful.
229
00:12:03,682 --> 00:12:05,975
What is it, a club or something?
- Something similar.
230
00:12:05,976 --> 00:12:07,726
This is a gastronomic society.
231
00:12:07,727 --> 00:12:09,687
The Basque Country
is full of them.
232
00:12:09,688 --> 00:12:12,356
It's a tradition started
in the mid-19th century
233
00:12:12,357 --> 00:12:15,401
by men looking
for a late night drink
234
00:12:15,402 --> 00:12:18,446
and somewhere to cook
and share recipes.
235
00:12:18,447 --> 00:12:20,156
These days,
women are included
236
00:12:20,157 --> 00:12:23,118
in the 1,500 clubs
throughout the region.
237
00:12:24,828 --> 00:12:27,163
And today,
we're in charge of lunch,
238
00:12:27,164 --> 00:12:30,167
cooking one of the town's
most treasured recipes.
239
00:12:31,460 --> 00:12:35,379
We are cooking Tolosa
classic black bean,
240
00:12:35,380 --> 00:12:37,339
and this is the traditional way
of preparing them.
241
00:12:37,340 --> 00:12:38,799
Oh, okay,
'cause there's different ways.
242
00:12:38,800 --> 00:12:40,342
Not for us,
because for us,
243
00:12:40,343 --> 00:12:42,052
it's the only way
of cooking them.
244
00:12:42,053 --> 00:12:43,179
- It's the only way.
- And the most--
245
00:12:43,180 --> 00:12:44,763
Yeah. And the best one.
246
00:12:44,764 --> 00:12:46,515
So we are going to put them.
- Is there salt
247
00:12:46,516 --> 00:12:48,392
or anything in the water?
- No.
248
00:12:48,393 --> 00:12:51,479
It's very important because
if we add the salt at first,
249
00:12:51,480 --> 00:12:54,190
the bean is going to break.
250
00:12:54,191 --> 00:12:56,275
- And if it break--
- That's why my beans break.
251
00:12:56,276 --> 00:12:58,194
I make pinto beans all the time.
- Maybe. Yeah.
252
00:12:58,195 --> 00:13:00,779
And I put salt in the water.
253
00:13:00,780 --> 00:13:03,324
You haven't put
any spices in yet.
254
00:13:03,325 --> 00:13:04,992
Like, where are the spices?
- No, I know.
255
00:13:04,993 --> 00:13:07,328
We are not going to add
any spice in this recipe.
256
00:13:07,329 --> 00:13:09,080
It's very traditional.
257
00:13:10,207 --> 00:13:13,335
It's a far cry from
how we do it back in Texas.
258
00:13:14,794 --> 00:13:16,795
But at the gastronomic society,
259
00:13:16,796 --> 00:13:20,132
even the simplest of recipes
are like sacred rites.
260
00:13:20,133 --> 00:13:22,009
When did your love of cooking
begin?
261
00:13:22,010 --> 00:13:25,054
I love cooking because this
food was prepared by my mother,
262
00:13:25,055 --> 00:13:26,680
by my grandmother.
263
00:13:26,681 --> 00:13:29,350
First cooking,
it's like the feeling we want
264
00:13:29,351 --> 00:13:32,478
to take care about the people
the way a mother...
265
00:13:32,479 --> 00:13:34,355
Would take care
of her family.
266
00:13:34,356 --> 00:13:37,191
Oh. That's beautiful.
- That's why.
267
00:13:37,192 --> 00:13:39,360
Look.
This look like hot chocolate.
268
00:13:39,361 --> 00:13:41,695
This is, like, very--
- It looks like chocolate.
269
00:13:41,696 --> 00:13:45,491
Now, that sauce
is just generated by the bean?
270
00:13:45,492 --> 00:13:47,451
Yeah,
and that's why it's so special.
271
00:13:47,452 --> 00:13:49,328
Wow. That is a magical bean.
272
00:13:49,329 --> 00:13:51,080
Why is that?
Why do you think it has that?
273
00:13:51,081 --> 00:13:52,706
I think it's because
of the ground.
274
00:13:52,707 --> 00:13:55,209
We have a really beautiful
mountains around.
275
00:13:55,210 --> 00:13:56,752
The ground is very rich.
276
00:13:56,753 --> 00:13:59,004
And also there is here
a lot of knowledge
277
00:13:59,005 --> 00:14:03,592
about how to grow this bean
to be magical, special.
278
00:14:03,593 --> 00:14:05,469
And they're not broken.
None of them.
279
00:14:05,470 --> 00:14:08,639
And you have done another thing
which is prohibited.
280
00:14:08,640 --> 00:14:11,058
Ahh! I touched it?
281
00:14:11,059 --> 00:14:14,228
- Don't touch it.
- You can't put in the spoon.
282
00:14:14,229 --> 00:14:16,272
- Why?
- Because they break.
283
00:14:16,273 --> 00:14:18,649
Okay, so we're not supposed
to break the beans, ever?
284
00:14:18,650 --> 00:14:23,445
This movement is the way
to move the beans.
285
00:14:23,446 --> 00:14:27,658
It doesn't look like I'm
getting a utensil anytime soon.
286
00:14:27,659 --> 00:14:29,201
Okay, I'm tired.
287
00:14:29,202 --> 00:14:30,995
But maybe it's for the best,
288
00:14:30,996 --> 00:14:32,913
as it sounds like
the club members will know
289
00:14:32,914 --> 00:14:34,957
if we've messed with tradition.
290
00:14:34,958 --> 00:14:37,960
Salting the beans.
291
00:14:37,961 --> 00:14:41,255
With the salt going in
at the last possible moment...
292
00:14:41,256 --> 00:14:43,048
Yeah. That's enough.
293
00:14:43,049 --> 00:14:46,677
...the beans are ready,
and we can finally use a ladle.
294
00:14:46,678 --> 00:14:49,638
Oh, you're touching the beans!
Just for me?
295
00:14:49,639 --> 00:14:51,140
No. You didn't--
Yeah, just for you.
296
00:14:53,059 --> 00:14:56,478
And serve them up with
some local sausages and ribs.
297
00:14:56,479 --> 00:14:59,399
Hola.
- Hola.
298
00:15:04,779 --> 00:15:06,280
{\an8}Alubias. Bien.
299
00:15:11,161 --> 00:15:13,162
Buen provecho.
300
00:15:15,457 --> 00:15:18,083
Oh, my God.
301
00:15:18,084 --> 00:15:20,628
Wow.
302
00:15:20,629 --> 00:15:22,504
Well done.
- Well done.
303
00:15:24,341 --> 00:15:27,676
It's so crazy
how flavorful this is.
304
00:15:27,677 --> 00:15:31,681
Don Luis, what exactly
is a gastronomical society?
305
00:15:48,907 --> 00:15:50,116
{\an8}Oh, si?
306
00:16:14,432 --> 00:16:16,267
{\an8}Yay!
307
00:16:18,395 --> 00:16:20,730
- Yeah!
- We have a lot of friends here.
308
00:16:22,232 --> 00:16:24,525
These societies may be
joyful places,
309
00:16:24,526 --> 00:16:27,236
but their role in protecting
Basque traditions
310
00:16:27,237 --> 00:16:28,737
has been serious.
311
00:16:31,324 --> 00:16:33,117
In the 1930s,
312
00:16:33,118 --> 00:16:35,119
the Basques fought
against Franco's fascists
313
00:16:35,120 --> 00:16:37,204
in the Civil war.
314
00:16:37,205 --> 00:16:41,458
So after he won, he set out
to destroy Basque identity.
315
00:16:41,459 --> 00:16:43,085
During the regime,
316
00:16:43,086 --> 00:16:46,046
their language and institutions
were banned.
317
00:16:46,047 --> 00:16:48,507
Thousands of dissenters
were imprisoned,
318
00:16:48,508 --> 00:16:50,259
tortured, and killed,
319
00:16:50,260 --> 00:16:54,596
and more than 150,000 Basques
went into exile.
320
00:17:26,463 --> 00:17:30,215
So that made almost
the gastronomical societies
321
00:17:30,216 --> 00:17:31,925
even more important.
322
00:17:31,926 --> 00:17:34,762
And we believe that these
gastronomic societies
323
00:17:34,763 --> 00:17:37,222
could preserve this Basque
culture in the future.
324
00:17:37,223 --> 00:17:40,559
And if you can preserve
your food and your recipes,
325
00:17:40,560 --> 00:17:43,772
then you can teach the rest
of the world who you are.
326
00:17:45,607 --> 00:17:47,608
{\an8}Ready? Cheers.
327
00:17:47,609 --> 00:17:48,859
{\an8}Tolosa.
- Tolosa.
328
00:17:48,860 --> 00:17:51,779
Tolosa.
329
00:17:51,780 --> 00:17:55,199
Today, Basque food and
culture is recognized globally.
330
00:17:57,160 --> 00:17:59,495
And given the hard road
it took to get here,
331
00:17:59,496 --> 00:18:01,789
there is much to celebrate.
332
00:18:34,072 --> 00:18:36,657
Hola, Eva.
Down, down to the right.
333
00:18:36,658 --> 00:18:38,826
{\an8}- Okay.
- Si. I meet you there.
334
00:18:38,827 --> 00:18:40,912
- Okay. Thank you.
- Hasta ahora.
335
00:18:42,038 --> 00:18:43,872
Amazingly,
a quarter of Spain's
336
00:18:43,873 --> 00:18:45,707
three Michelin star
restaurants,
337
00:18:45,708 --> 00:18:49,169
their highest accolade,
are in the Basque Country.
338
00:18:49,170 --> 00:18:51,880
- Eva.
- I can't believe
339
00:18:51,881 --> 00:18:53,423
Elena knew my name.
340
00:18:53,424 --> 00:18:55,843
Elena Arzak.
She's, like, Basque royalty.
341
00:18:55,844 --> 00:18:57,803
It's like I'm meeting the queen.
342
00:18:57,804 --> 00:19:01,098
In fact, San Sebastian is home
to the highest number
343
00:19:01,099 --> 00:19:03,725
of Michelin stars per head
in Europe.
344
00:19:03,726 --> 00:19:06,396
{\an8}Hola! Bienvenida.
345
00:19:11,192 --> 00:19:14,027
Restaurant Arzak
is the jewel in that crown.
346
00:19:14,028 --> 00:19:18,198
One of the most important
restaurants in the world.
347
00:19:18,199 --> 00:19:20,242
Started by Elena's
great grandmother
348
00:19:20,243 --> 00:19:22,744
as a tavern in 1897,
349
00:19:22,745 --> 00:19:26,582
generations of the Arzak family
have taken the helm,
350
00:19:26,583 --> 00:19:30,919
and Elena has been voted
the world's best female chef.
351
00:19:30,920 --> 00:19:34,423
So it's fair to say this isn't
a kitchen to mess with.
352
00:19:34,424 --> 00:19:36,133
{\an8}Okay, wait,
let me put my hair back,
353
00:19:36,134 --> 00:19:38,720
{\an8}because I feel like
I'm a health code violation.
354
00:19:42,682 --> 00:19:44,809
{\an8}- Hola, Cynthia.
- Hola.
355
00:19:48,897 --> 00:19:50,647
{\an8}She's the head chef.
356
00:19:50,648 --> 00:19:52,525
{\an8}I love that it's two women.
357
00:19:53,776 --> 00:19:55,402
{\an8}Claro.
358
00:19:55,403 --> 00:19:57,738
Before the stars
and the global acclaim,
359
00:19:57,739 --> 00:20:00,741
Elena's grandmother served
up Basque staples.
360
00:20:00,742 --> 00:20:04,411
And they still inform
today's cooking.
361
00:20:04,412 --> 00:20:06,204
We are going to cook kokotxas.
362
00:20:06,205 --> 00:20:08,624
Very traditional
from the Basque cuisine.
363
00:20:08,625 --> 00:20:10,250
Kokotxas?
The kokotxa
364
00:20:10,251 --> 00:20:11,793
comes from the head.
365
00:20:11,794 --> 00:20:14,171
Here is the kokotxa.
- Oh, there. The throat?
366
00:20:14,172 --> 00:20:16,590
It's very special
for the Basques.
367
00:20:16,591 --> 00:20:18,926
We adore kokotxas.
She will take it out.
368
00:20:18,927 --> 00:20:20,719
- Okay.
- You are with the princess
369
00:20:20,720 --> 00:20:22,220
of the sea.
- Oh.
370
00:20:22,221 --> 00:20:24,139
She's the princess
of the sea.
371
00:20:24,140 --> 00:20:27,351
Oh.
372
00:20:27,352 --> 00:20:29,561
That's it right there.
373
00:20:29,562 --> 00:20:31,355
Once considered
a waste product,
374
00:20:31,356 --> 00:20:33,982
Basque fishermen started
cooking up the kokotxas
375
00:20:33,983 --> 00:20:36,777
in clay pots called cazuelas.
376
00:20:36,778 --> 00:20:39,196
- As you can see...
- It's just in olive oil?
377
00:20:39,197 --> 00:20:44,159
Si. These are in olive oil,
is infused with chopped garlic.
378
00:20:44,160 --> 00:20:47,329
For us, extra virgin olive oil
is like water.
379
00:20:47,330 --> 00:20:48,997
We need it to live.
380
00:20:48,998 --> 00:20:50,749
To eat everything.
381
00:20:50,750 --> 00:20:54,044
Ah, okay. Now you empty it.
382
00:20:54,045 --> 00:20:55,754
- You will see.
- Okay.
383
00:20:55,755 --> 00:20:57,923
The technique is called
pil pil.
384
00:20:57,924 --> 00:20:59,132
- Pil pil.
- Pil pil.
385
00:20:59,133 --> 00:21:00,717
What is the translation
of that?
386
00:21:00,718 --> 00:21:03,303
- Pil pil.
- Okay.
387
00:21:03,304 --> 00:21:05,806
You have...
- To make slow movement first.
388
00:21:05,807 --> 00:21:08,266
- Uh-huh.
- For no broke the kokotxas.
389
00:21:08,267 --> 00:21:10,227
- To not break them.
- Yes.
390
00:21:10,228 --> 00:21:12,813
You make, like,
a type like mayonnaise.
391
00:21:12,814 --> 00:21:15,023
- Oh, okay.
- Only with the oil
392
00:21:15,024 --> 00:21:16,566
and the kokotxas.
- Oh.
393
00:21:16,567 --> 00:21:19,528
No more.
So that kokotxa have collagen.
394
00:21:19,529 --> 00:21:21,905
It's all collagen.
- Collagen. I need collagen.
395
00:21:21,906 --> 00:21:25,117
I want some collagen.
396
00:21:25,118 --> 00:21:27,452
- And now she dance.
- Now we dance. Now we all dance.
397
00:21:27,453 --> 00:21:29,204
Slow all your move.
398
00:21:31,457 --> 00:21:33,083
Look at it.
It's making a sauce.
399
00:21:33,084 --> 00:21:35,669
- It's great, eh, Eva?
- Look at this.
400
00:21:35,670 --> 00:21:39,423
What's happening? It's like
magic in front of our eyes.
401
00:21:39,424 --> 00:21:41,550
This is so crazy.
Just by moving the fish.
402
00:21:41,551 --> 00:21:44,845
- Just by moving.
- Oh, my gosh.
403
00:21:44,846 --> 00:21:48,182
And this traditional version,
it's as simple as that.
404
00:21:49,392 --> 00:21:52,936
Wow. That is a super rich sauce.
- Yeah.
405
00:21:52,937 --> 00:21:55,355
It just melts in your mouth,
very creamy.
406
00:21:55,356 --> 00:21:57,274
And you can taste the beauty
of the fish.
407
00:21:57,275 --> 00:21:58,943
It's so fresh.
408
00:22:01,112 --> 00:22:04,114
But today, Elena's kitchen
has given Granny's classic
409
00:22:04,115 --> 00:22:06,033
a 21st century upgrade,
410
00:22:06,034 --> 00:22:09,287
serving them up with
fermented leeks and peppers...
411
00:22:10,747 --> 00:22:13,540
...and a savory
squid ink stamp.
412
00:22:13,541 --> 00:22:16,001
It was the reimagining
of traditions
413
00:22:16,002 --> 00:22:18,754
that won Arzak
its global reputation
414
00:22:18,755 --> 00:22:22,924
under the leadership
of Elena's father, Juan Mari.
415
00:22:22,925 --> 00:22:24,801
For his generation
of Basques,
416
00:22:24,802 --> 00:22:27,554
General Franco's death
and the end of fascism
417
00:22:27,555 --> 00:22:32,851
in 1975 allowed them to
publicly embrace their culture.
418
00:22:32,852 --> 00:22:35,103
It was a revolution.
419
00:22:35,104 --> 00:22:37,606
And alongside other
local chefs,
420
00:22:37,607 --> 00:22:41,193
Juan Mari started the new
Basque cuisine movement,
421
00:22:41,194 --> 00:22:42,944
blending Basque traditions
422
00:22:42,945 --> 00:22:46,364
with the flair
of French nouvelle cuisine.
423
00:22:46,365 --> 00:22:48,325
It set off a chain reaction,
424
00:22:48,326 --> 00:22:50,077
eventually bringing
Basque cooking
425
00:22:50,078 --> 00:22:51,787
global recognition
426
00:22:51,788 --> 00:22:54,498
and inspiring chefs
across the country,
427
00:22:54,499 --> 00:22:58,335
putting Spain
on a totally new culinary path.
428
00:22:58,336 --> 00:23:01,880
We try to be... very Basque,
429
00:23:01,881 --> 00:23:04,382
but also trying
to use the ingredients
430
00:23:04,383 --> 00:23:06,343
and the techniques
for other cultures
431
00:23:06,344 --> 00:23:09,471
that can enrich our cuisine.
432
00:23:09,472 --> 00:23:11,556
It's very important
to be open-minded.
433
00:23:11,557 --> 00:23:13,683
Right. And I think that's
what makes you guys so special.
434
00:23:13,684 --> 00:23:16,353
- Bueno.
- This outward-looking approach
435
00:23:16,354 --> 00:23:18,605
is alive
in today's kitchen,
436
00:23:18,606 --> 00:23:21,149
and dishes like sea bass
with blades of onion
437
00:23:21,150 --> 00:23:23,777
are a perfect fusion
of Basque roots,
438
00:23:23,778 --> 00:23:26,780
French technique,
and global inspiration.
439
00:23:28,616 --> 00:23:30,200
This is exciting.
440
00:23:30,201 --> 00:23:32,285
Blades of onion.
- Bueno.
441
00:23:32,286 --> 00:23:33,788
Wow.
442
00:23:37,291 --> 00:23:39,417
It almost has the texture
of a steak.
443
00:23:39,418 --> 00:23:42,129
Mmm. This is heaven.
444
00:23:42,130 --> 00:23:44,756
Cooking like this
has won Restaurante Arzak
445
00:23:44,757 --> 00:23:49,094
three Michelin stars
for 35 years in a row.
446
00:23:49,095 --> 00:23:50,929
The most difficult
is to maintain...
447
00:23:50,930 --> 00:23:52,430
- The reputation.
- Si.
448
00:23:52,431 --> 00:23:54,307
- Maintain the reputation.
- So this--
449
00:23:54,308 --> 00:23:57,602
As you can see, Eva,
this never stops.
450
00:23:57,603 --> 00:24:01,148
It feels like this is why
San Sebastian's chefs
451
00:24:01,149 --> 00:24:03,108
keep on winning those stars.
452
00:24:03,109 --> 00:24:04,818
They cherish their traditions,
453
00:24:04,819 --> 00:24:08,613
but also have a desire
to look outwards.
454
00:24:08,614 --> 00:24:10,031
- Cheers! Salud.
- Salud.
455
00:24:10,032 --> 00:24:11,826
Muchas gracias.
456
00:24:24,255 --> 00:24:26,381
Wow, I wish you
could smell the streets.
457
00:24:26,382 --> 00:24:28,718
It's-- It's this.
Oh, my gosh.
458
00:24:30,094 --> 00:24:31,511
Wow.
459
00:24:31,512 --> 00:24:33,847
A grill always reminds me
of my childhood.
460
00:24:33,848 --> 00:24:36,641
Reminds me of Texas, y'all.
461
00:24:39,562 --> 00:24:41,898
{\an8}Hola.
- Hola.
462
00:24:54,535 --> 00:24:58,622
I really wish you guys
could smell the entire town.
463
00:24:58,623 --> 00:25:01,041
Halfway between
San Sebastian and Bilbao
464
00:25:01,042 --> 00:25:03,293
is the village of Getaria,
465
00:25:03,294 --> 00:25:06,379
where seafaring
is in the blood.
466
00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:09,299
It was home
to Juan Sebastián Elcano,
467
00:25:09,300 --> 00:25:13,678
the captain of the first ship
to circumnavigate the world.
468
00:25:13,679 --> 00:25:17,141
And today, it's a paradise
for lovers of grilled fish.
469
00:25:21,562 --> 00:25:23,230
I've been smelling
the grill
470
00:25:23,231 --> 00:25:25,106
from the whole village.
471
00:25:25,107 --> 00:25:27,859
Yes. Just in time for lunch.
472
00:25:27,860 --> 00:25:31,071
El Txoko is the original
commercial asador,
473
00:25:31,072 --> 00:25:35,033
or grill house, in a village
that is now full of them.
474
00:25:35,034 --> 00:25:38,245
Opened by Maialen's
grandfather 70 years ago,
475
00:25:38,246 --> 00:25:41,206
she now runs it
with her husband, Enrique.
476
00:25:41,207 --> 00:25:42,958
- Where are you from?
- From Mexico City.
477
00:25:42,959 --> 00:25:45,043
I knew there was something
I liked about him.
478
00:25:45,044 --> 00:25:47,963
What is this?
- Bueno.
479
00:25:47,964 --> 00:25:49,965
{\an8}Here we have a besugo.
- Okay.
480
00:25:49,966 --> 00:25:52,884
{\an8}As the families,
they usually enjoy this fish
481
00:25:52,885 --> 00:25:56,596
{\an8}in the special events like...
- Baptisms, communions.
482
00:25:56,597 --> 00:25:58,098
{\an8}Okay.
483
00:25:58,099 --> 00:26:00,100
As you see here,
you see that color?
484
00:26:00,101 --> 00:26:01,518
It's a silver color.
- Yeah.
485
00:26:01,519 --> 00:26:02,936
It's amazing.
486
00:26:02,937 --> 00:26:04,771
That means the quality
of the fish.
487
00:26:04,772 --> 00:26:06,690
This, you know, like the--
- Wow, that's very bright.
488
00:26:06,691 --> 00:26:09,026
- Very bright.
- It looks like a seashell inside.
489
00:26:10,069 --> 00:26:11,945
Here, the freshest fish
delivered
490
00:26:11,946 --> 00:26:13,863
from the harbor twice a day
491
00:26:13,864 --> 00:26:17,534
is cooked simply in a kitchen
centered around a grill.
492
00:26:17,535 --> 00:26:19,911
So Enrique is giving me
a lesson on grilling
493
00:26:19,912 --> 00:26:22,372
Getaria style.
494
00:26:22,373 --> 00:26:24,333
{\an8}That's so hot.
Oh, my gosh.
495
00:26:25,918 --> 00:26:27,836
{\an8}Okay.
496
00:26:27,837 --> 00:26:31,089
Do you think the Basque people
do grilling a specific way?
497
00:26:31,090 --> 00:26:34,592
Si. One of the DNA
of the Basque people--
498
00:26:34,593 --> 00:26:36,261
Uh-huh, the DNA
of the Basque people.
499
00:26:36,262 --> 00:26:39,306
...is everybody grills
or everybody wants to try.
500
00:26:39,307 --> 00:26:41,641
We cook the fish
with these type of tools.
501
00:26:41,642 --> 00:26:43,518
They are very particular
from here.
502
00:26:43,519 --> 00:26:45,895
So we call besuguera.
- Besuguera.
503
00:26:45,896 --> 00:26:48,732
They use this type of tools.
504
00:26:48,733 --> 00:26:51,109
And then this is
a Basque traditional grill.
505
00:26:51,110 --> 00:26:54,529
Like, you can move the height.
- Oh, higher and lower the heat.
506
00:26:54,530 --> 00:26:57,449
Eso es. So you can--
If you have a small fish
507
00:26:57,450 --> 00:26:59,367
you always go down.
508
00:26:59,368 --> 00:27:02,329
Big fish, you need to know
which is the level.
509
00:27:02,330 --> 00:27:05,749
- Yeah. Yeah.
- And I will add also... look.
510
00:27:05,750 --> 00:27:09,961
This type of .
We call .
511
00:27:09,962 --> 00:27:11,713
- ...
- Yes.
512
00:27:11,714 --> 00:27:15,967
This is the holy water
of bass grilling...
513
00:27:15,968 --> 00:27:19,429
made from vinegar,
local txakoli wine,
514
00:27:19,430 --> 00:27:21,139
brandy, and garlic
515
00:27:21,140 --> 00:27:24,226
that coats the fish
every time it's turned.
516
00:27:25,311 --> 00:27:27,103
Oh, my God,
I can smell it already.
517
00:27:27,104 --> 00:27:29,189
This is what I was smelling
walking through the streets.
518
00:27:29,190 --> 00:27:31,191
This...
- Si, si, si.
519
00:27:31,192 --> 00:27:33,943
In my case, it's my wife
knowing that I'm coming...
520
00:27:33,944 --> 00:27:35,362
- Yeah.
- ...two blocks ago.
521
00:27:35,363 --> 00:27:37,447
"My husband is coming."
522
00:27:38,991 --> 00:27:40,909
If you have a fish
and you have a grill,
523
00:27:40,910 --> 00:27:43,370
it's a happy life.
524
00:27:43,371 --> 00:27:46,498
With fish this fresh,
you don't need much.
525
00:27:46,499 --> 00:27:48,666
Just some flakes of garlic,
526
00:27:48,667 --> 00:27:50,543
that bass classic,
527
00:27:50,544 --> 00:27:53,047
the pil pil sauce,
and some chives.
528
00:27:54,382 --> 00:27:56,925
It's the way Maialen's family
have prepared their fish
529
00:27:56,926 --> 00:27:58,676
for generations.
530
00:28:06,185 --> 00:28:09,145
Oh, my gosh,
I love how they pour it.
531
00:28:09,146 --> 00:28:12,732
There's no better day than
txakoli with a fresh fish
532
00:28:12,733 --> 00:28:15,318
and this view.
533
00:28:15,319 --> 00:28:17,237
This is perfectly cooked.
534
00:28:17,238 --> 00:28:19,490
Oh, my gosh.
- Amazing.
535
00:28:21,033 --> 00:28:23,451
Mmm. Oh, my God, it's so fresh.
536
00:28:23,452 --> 00:28:25,328
You can taste the garlic.
You can--
537
00:28:25,329 --> 00:28:29,082
You know what I love
about fresh fish is the texture.
538
00:28:29,083 --> 00:28:31,876
Why is fish so important
to this region?
539
00:28:31,877 --> 00:28:35,339
{\an8}How did it evolve
to become these amazing dishes?
540
00:28:42,430 --> 00:28:46,600
Centuries ago, the Basques
set sail to navigate the world.
541
00:28:47,852 --> 00:28:49,686
Famed for their
adventurous spirit,
542
00:28:49,687 --> 00:28:52,147
these sailors led Spain's
exploration
543
00:28:52,148 --> 00:28:56,067
of new lands and oceans.
544
00:28:56,068 --> 00:28:58,778
And while
on these treacherous journeys,
545
00:28:58,779 --> 00:29:01,948
they started to grill fish
on board.
546
00:29:01,949 --> 00:29:03,783
It became so popular
547
00:29:03,784 --> 00:29:06,203
that they brought
the grills home to Getaria.
548
00:29:18,924 --> 00:29:20,092
{\an8}Yeah.
549
00:29:25,097 --> 00:29:26,473
{\an8}To share what they caught
on the boat?
550
00:29:26,474 --> 00:29:29,017
- Yes.
- Yeah. With their friends.
551
00:29:29,018 --> 00:29:30,935
In a typically Basque way,
552
00:29:30,936 --> 00:29:33,480
grilling became
a local obsession.
553
00:29:33,481 --> 00:29:36,774
And once tourists started
to arrive in the 20th century,
554
00:29:36,775 --> 00:29:39,277
the grills opened to visitors.
555
00:29:39,278 --> 00:29:42,281
And the first was here
at El Txoko.
556
00:29:43,699 --> 00:29:46,493
Now, as we call this,
Txoko Getaria Asador.
557
00:29:46,494 --> 00:29:47,869
- Asador.
- Asador Main Street.
558
00:29:47,870 --> 00:29:49,746
- A grill. Yeah.
- But in that moment,
559
00:29:49,747 --> 00:29:53,250
Restaurante, it was a word
a little bit more sophisticated.
560
00:30:05,721 --> 00:30:07,347
Now everybody wants
to have an asador.
561
00:30:07,348 --> 00:30:09,015
Everybody wants
to go to an asador.
562
00:30:10,851 --> 00:30:12,769
Thank you guys so much.
563
00:30:12,770 --> 00:30:16,231
{\an8}This was such a special day
for me to enjoy
564
00:30:16,232 --> 00:30:18,901
{\an8}not only this amazing fish
and view, but your company.
565
00:30:19,944 --> 00:30:21,403
{\an8}Thank you for coming.
566
00:30:30,621 --> 00:30:35,918
I wanted to do a toast
to the pagan god Mary.
567
00:30:37,169 --> 00:30:40,004
They say she lives
in this mountain
568
00:30:40,005 --> 00:30:42,006
and she's very powerful.
569
00:30:42,007 --> 00:30:44,467
She actually controls
the weather.
570
00:30:44,468 --> 00:30:47,804
And what the Basque people
say is that when it's overcast
571
00:30:47,805 --> 00:30:49,180
like this and it's cloudy,
572
00:30:49,181 --> 00:30:50,974
it's going to be a good day
573
00:30:50,975 --> 00:30:53,518
because she's cooking
in her cave.
574
00:30:53,519 --> 00:30:54,687
Salud.
575
00:30:58,274 --> 00:31:01,234
The Basque have been worshiping
Mary here for millennia,
576
00:31:01,235 --> 00:31:03,319
but there's a more recent
local resident
577
00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:06,573
who's also worshipped--
an extraordinary chef
578
00:31:06,574 --> 00:31:09,827
whose devotees come from
around the world to pay homage.
579
00:31:11,996 --> 00:31:15,164
So my pintxo buddy Marti has
managed to bag us a reservation
580
00:31:15,165 --> 00:31:18,127
that's one of the most
difficult to get in the world.
581
00:31:19,253 --> 00:31:21,714
I smell the
grill already.
582
00:31:23,090 --> 00:31:25,174
In the mountains
outside Bilbao,
583
00:31:25,175 --> 00:31:28,803
Axpe is a small village
of just 200 people.
584
00:31:28,804 --> 00:31:31,764
But amongst its farmhouses
585
00:31:31,765 --> 00:31:34,017
and barns is Etxebarri,
586
00:31:34,018 --> 00:31:35,435
a restaurant
that has been voted
587
00:31:35,436 --> 00:31:37,730
one of the best in the world.
588
00:31:38,856 --> 00:31:40,940
This is stunning.
- I mean, it's really
589
00:31:40,941 --> 00:31:43,359
unlike any restaurant
in the whole world.
590
00:31:43,360 --> 00:31:46,904
Victor, he started it
almost 35 years ago.
591
00:31:46,905 --> 00:31:49,240
This restaurant
has been open 35 years?
592
00:31:49,241 --> 00:31:51,451
Yeah, yeah, but you know,
when he started it,
593
00:31:51,452 --> 00:31:53,202
it was just another grill house.
594
00:31:53,203 --> 00:31:55,539
What he's done is really
taken it to the next level.
595
00:31:59,376 --> 00:32:01,252
At first glance,
this might seem
596
00:32:01,253 --> 00:32:03,504
like any other bass asador.
597
00:32:03,505 --> 00:32:05,256
But this famous chef,
598
00:32:05,257 --> 00:32:08,384
Victor Arguinzoniuz
is an obsessive
599
00:32:08,385 --> 00:32:10,720
who has taken
the coastal tradition,
600
00:32:10,721 --> 00:32:12,472
transported it
to the mountains,
601
00:32:12,473 --> 00:32:14,974
and turned it on its head.
602
00:32:14,975 --> 00:32:17,602
He insists on wood
from the nearby forest
603
00:32:17,603 --> 00:32:19,813
to make daily fresh charcoal.
604
00:32:21,106 --> 00:32:22,774
He uses ingredients foraged,
605
00:32:22,775 --> 00:32:26,653
farmed, and fished close by,
606
00:32:26,654 --> 00:32:29,530
and designs equipment
that allows him to grill it
607
00:32:29,531 --> 00:32:31,241
all to perfection.
608
00:32:33,118 --> 00:32:34,243
You being from the South
609
00:32:34,244 --> 00:32:36,120
and me being from Texas,
610
00:32:36,121 --> 00:32:38,456
I'm a harsh critic of grills.
611
00:32:38,457 --> 00:32:41,042
Have you, in Texas,
ever grilled egg yolk?
612
00:32:41,043 --> 00:32:42,418
- No.
- Okay, well, then I think we'll
613
00:32:42,419 --> 00:32:43,961
have something to try here.
614
00:32:43,962 --> 00:32:46,464
We might have something to try.
615
00:32:46,465 --> 00:32:48,466
Dishes change
throughout the year,
616
00:32:48,467 --> 00:32:51,678
and while it's rare to see
Victor outside his kitchen,
617
00:32:51,679 --> 00:32:53,763
his solo trips
to nearby forests
618
00:32:53,764 --> 00:32:57,225
in search of ingredients
inform the menu.
619
00:32:57,226 --> 00:32:59,602
Oh, no. This is great.
620
00:32:59,603 --> 00:33:02,605
- What is this?
- This is really good news.
621
00:33:02,606 --> 00:33:05,108
So this is the guisante
de lágrima, the tea of pea.
622
00:33:05,109 --> 00:33:06,818
And they call this here
the caviar from the--
623
00:33:06,819 --> 00:33:08,986
- The caviar of the region?
- Yeah.
624
00:33:08,987 --> 00:33:10,988
They're in season
for a super short time.
625
00:33:10,989 --> 00:33:13,574
So I know people get really
excited about fish and meat,
626
00:33:13,575 --> 00:33:16,786
but for me, this is, like,
true-- truly a delicacy.
627
00:33:16,787 --> 00:33:19,414
This is like popping in your
mouth, exploding with flavor.
628
00:33:19,415 --> 00:33:21,040
You can taste the smoke.
629
00:33:21,041 --> 00:33:22,834
But they really leave them
to, like, shine
630
00:33:22,835 --> 00:33:24,752
and for you to enjoy them
as they are
631
00:33:24,753 --> 00:33:26,337
in all of their glory.
632
00:33:26,338 --> 00:33:30,049
There is a bounce
and a crunch.
633
00:33:30,050 --> 00:33:32,677
Each one explodes
in your mouth just like caviar.
634
00:33:32,678 --> 00:33:34,137
I really don't say this
often,
635
00:33:34,138 --> 00:33:35,596
but I really think
I'm going to cry.
636
00:33:35,597 --> 00:33:37,974
- Oh.
- Food makes me so happy.
637
00:33:37,975 --> 00:33:39,642
Yeah.
638
00:33:39,643 --> 00:33:42,353
Don't cry in the caviar.
639
00:33:42,354 --> 00:33:44,647
This mysterious
one-man show grills things
640
00:33:44,648 --> 00:33:46,983
that should be impossible
to grill,
641
00:33:46,984 --> 00:33:49,026
from actual caviar
642
00:33:49,027 --> 00:33:51,154
to bass traditions
like egg yolks
643
00:33:51,155 --> 00:33:54,490
served with mushrooms
direct from the forest.
644
00:33:54,491 --> 00:33:57,493
You grilled the egg yolk?
- The egg yolk. Yeah.
645
00:33:57,494 --> 00:33:59,662
Slowly for a few minutes.
So enjoy.
646
00:33:59,663 --> 00:34:01,914
- Thank you.
- You ain't got that in Texas.
647
00:34:01,915 --> 00:34:05,377
- No. Oh, wow.
- Wow. Gorgeous.
648
00:34:06,837 --> 00:34:08,546
Mmm.
649
00:34:08,547 --> 00:34:10,256
And I feel like if you
went to any other restaurant,
650
00:34:10,257 --> 00:34:12,884
you know, at this level,
there would be five more things
651
00:34:12,885 --> 00:34:14,218
on this plate.
652
00:34:14,219 --> 00:34:15,887
Again, two ingredients.
653
00:34:15,888 --> 00:34:18,306
Two ingredients
that make magic.
654
00:34:18,307 --> 00:34:22,685
Oh, my gosh, I've never had
that experience in my life.
655
00:34:22,686 --> 00:34:23,896
{\an8}I see.
656
00:34:24,938 --> 00:34:26,773
{\an8}I licked it, I licked it clean.
657
00:34:26,774 --> 00:34:30,610
I would have licked hers, but
I thought it was inappropriate.
658
00:34:30,611 --> 00:34:32,737
Despite this world class food,
659
00:34:32,738 --> 00:34:36,407
Chef Victor is the culinary
world's great enigma,
660
00:34:36,408 --> 00:34:39,118
shying away
from glamour and awards,
661
00:34:39,119 --> 00:34:41,245
instead remaining
in his happy place--
662
00:34:41,246 --> 00:34:42,872
by his grill.
663
00:34:42,873 --> 00:34:44,916
But enigma or not,
664
00:34:44,917 --> 00:34:48,085
I just have to get a glimpse
of the master at work.
665
00:34:48,086 --> 00:34:49,796
I can guarantee you
that this is, like,
666
00:34:49,797 --> 00:34:53,424
probably the most no frills
kitchen on this level...
667
00:34:53,425 --> 00:34:55,051
- Yeah.
- ...anywhere.
668
00:34:55,052 --> 00:34:56,969
It's so simple.
669
00:34:56,970 --> 00:34:59,680
{\an8}Now, the plan was to let
the great man work in silence,
670
00:34:59,681 --> 00:35:01,474
{\an8}but I just can't stop
my curiosity
671
00:35:01,475 --> 00:35:03,060
{\an8}getting the better of me.
672
00:35:18,951 --> 00:35:21,536
It's not complicated,
but it doesn't make it easy.
673
00:35:21,537 --> 00:35:23,080
Yeah.
674
00:36:18,302 --> 00:36:20,511
I love that Victor's,
like, a man of few words.
675
00:36:20,512 --> 00:36:23,389
But he says so much
through his food.
676
00:36:23,390 --> 00:36:25,433
So much.
677
00:36:25,434 --> 00:36:27,768
With food like this,
it's no wonder
678
00:36:27,769 --> 00:36:31,522
some Basques believe they live
amongst the gods.
679
00:36:31,523 --> 00:36:33,524
There's such confidence
in a chef
680
00:36:33,525 --> 00:36:36,944
letting incredible ingredients
shine.
681
00:36:36,945 --> 00:36:40,323
I think the common
denominator is simplicity.
682
00:36:40,324 --> 00:36:43,826
Like, the food
is insanely amazing,
683
00:36:43,827 --> 00:36:47,204
but it's one, two,
maybe three ingredients.
684
00:36:47,205 --> 00:36:48,831
That is so simple.
- Do you love it?
685
00:36:48,832 --> 00:36:51,250
I love it.
686
00:36:51,251 --> 00:36:52,960
I don't know what
I'm going to do after this.
687
00:36:52,961 --> 00:36:54,670
I don't know if we can
continue on with the show.
688
00:36:54,671 --> 00:36:57,299
I think we just throw in
the towel, guys.
689
00:36:58,842 --> 00:37:00,384
We have found Spain.
690
00:37:10,604 --> 00:37:12,730
This region
is always innovating
691
00:37:12,731 --> 00:37:15,566
while continuing to do things
the Basque way.
692
00:37:18,862 --> 00:37:20,696
And now a next generation
of chefs
693
00:37:20,697 --> 00:37:22,448
is taking on the challenge,
694
00:37:22,449 --> 00:37:24,660
led by Eneko Atxa.
695
00:37:26,662 --> 00:37:29,247
{\an8}Hola. Kaixo.
696
00:37:36,546 --> 00:37:38,214
- Oh.
- I learned this, too.
697
00:37:38,215 --> 00:37:40,132
- You speaking Basque perfectly.
- I'm speaking Basque.
698
00:37:40,133 --> 00:37:42,343
I am fluent.
- Nice.
699
00:37:42,344 --> 00:37:44,220
Eneko's restaurant Azurmendi,
700
00:37:44,221 --> 00:37:47,264
near the Basque Country's
largest city, Bilbao,
701
00:37:47,265 --> 00:37:50,184
is at the forefront
of the latest Basque wave
702
00:37:50,185 --> 00:37:55,064
of innovation, winning him
a coveted three Michelin stars.
703
00:37:55,065 --> 00:37:58,443
- Kaixo!
- Kaixo!
704
00:37:59,444 --> 00:38:02,530
At Azurmendi, the diner's
culinary journey starts
705
00:38:02,531 --> 00:38:04,907
by eating the first
of their 20 courses
706
00:38:04,908 --> 00:38:06,283
right in the kitchen.
707
00:38:06,284 --> 00:38:09,745
We start with one
real sea aroma.
708
00:38:09,746 --> 00:38:12,039
And if you smell,
709
00:38:12,040 --> 00:38:14,333
you can feel that you are
very close--
710
00:38:14,334 --> 00:38:16,502
- In the ocean.
- ...to sea here. Yes.
711
00:38:16,503 --> 00:38:19,046
- Oh, yeah, that is--
- Yes, it's like a bruma.
712
00:38:19,047 --> 00:38:21,507
We offer a different snacks
and--
713
00:38:21,508 --> 00:38:23,467
I love that you call this
"snacks".
714
00:38:23,468 --> 00:38:25,344
It's just snacks.
715
00:38:25,345 --> 00:38:29,390
They're pretty complicated
elevated snacks.
716
00:38:29,391 --> 00:38:30,891
Whatever you want
to call them,
717
00:38:30,892 --> 00:38:32,518
they're mind blowing takes
718
00:38:32,519 --> 00:38:34,437
on traditional Basque dishes
719
00:38:34,438 --> 00:38:37,690
that make you feel like Charlie
in the chocolate factory.
720
00:38:37,691 --> 00:38:40,192
But instead of everlasting
gobstoppers,
721
00:38:40,193 --> 00:38:43,529
there's edible cocktails
using local txokoli wine.
722
00:38:43,530 --> 00:38:45,281
Boom.
723
00:38:45,282 --> 00:38:47,867
And a fritter of cod,
known as a buñuelo,
724
00:38:47,868 --> 00:38:51,078
coated in a .
725
00:38:51,079 --> 00:38:52,455
Wow.
- Like it?
726
00:38:52,456 --> 00:38:54,623
Mm-hmm.
How do you prepare the fish?
727
00:38:54,624 --> 00:38:57,918
We prepare very slowly,
very slowly, like pil pil.
728
00:38:57,919 --> 00:39:00,254
You know.
- I've learned this
729
00:39:00,255 --> 00:39:02,214
in this journey.
- Yes.
730
00:39:02,215 --> 00:39:05,885
You guys don't use a utensil.
731
00:39:05,886 --> 00:39:08,387
And a unique take
on a Basque favorite--
732
00:39:08,388 --> 00:39:12,183
eggs and truffles
that you assemble yourself.
733
00:39:12,184 --> 00:39:15,019
Oh, God. This is like surgery.
- You're a very good cook.
734
00:39:15,020 --> 00:39:17,313
Fantastic.
- Oh, my gosh.
735
00:39:17,314 --> 00:39:19,066
I could get a job here.
736
00:39:20,150 --> 00:39:22,151
The egg yolk is raw
737
00:39:22,152 --> 00:39:25,446
and we will cook
from inside to outside.
738
00:39:25,447 --> 00:39:27,490
Cooking it from the inside out.
739
00:39:27,491 --> 00:39:29,533
Carefully, carefully, carefully.
740
00:39:29,534 --> 00:39:32,411
We have a new chef in Azurmendi.
- Yay!
741
00:39:32,412 --> 00:39:37,083
Bravo!
In one bite, it's this egg yolk
742
00:39:37,084 --> 00:39:39,168
with truffle that you will eat
743
00:39:39,169 --> 00:39:40,586
never.
- In my life. Really?
744
00:39:40,587 --> 00:39:42,756
- I promise you.
- I believe you.
745
00:39:45,383 --> 00:39:47,468
Wow.
746
00:39:47,469 --> 00:39:50,513
This is all the difference
in the world.
747
00:39:50,514 --> 00:39:52,973
It's truffle juice.
Hot truffle juice.
748
00:39:52,974 --> 00:39:55,476
Oh, that is delicious.
749
00:39:55,477 --> 00:39:58,729
Guests do also get to eat
these inventive takes
750
00:39:58,730 --> 00:40:00,648
on traditions
in the dining room,
751
00:40:00,649 --> 00:40:03,734
where Eneko's team
serves up complex dishes
752
00:40:03,735 --> 00:40:07,363
like raw prawns
coated in chive oil
753
00:40:07,364 --> 00:40:09,698
and served with
a shrimp mayonnaise,
754
00:40:09,699 --> 00:40:13,160
micro parsley, flowers
from the restaurant's garden,
755
00:40:13,161 --> 00:40:15,788
and stunning blue shrimp
caviar.
756
00:40:15,789 --> 00:40:17,790
This is so beautiful.
I don't even want to eat it,
757
00:40:17,791 --> 00:40:19,376
it's so beautiful.
758
00:40:22,212 --> 00:40:24,922
Oh, my gosh, it's so silky.
- Yes.
759
00:40:24,923 --> 00:40:27,134
And the shrimp is so soft.
760
00:40:28,802 --> 00:40:30,386
{\an8}Oh, yes.
761
00:40:30,387 --> 00:40:32,138
It's like somebody giving
a nice hug to my tongue.
762
00:40:32,139 --> 00:40:34,056
- Yes.
- I mean, look at this.
763
00:40:34,057 --> 00:40:36,267
You're such an innovator. And
you've done something different.
764
00:40:36,268 --> 00:40:39,103
But also holding on
to tradition.
765
00:40:39,104 --> 00:40:41,355
Everything is coming
from my memory,
766
00:40:41,356 --> 00:40:46,110
from the soul of my family,
from my grandma, from my mom.
767
00:40:46,111 --> 00:40:49,864
And when you have
this treasure in your hands,
768
00:40:49,865 --> 00:40:53,242
you feel very comfortable
to innovate.
769
00:40:53,243 --> 00:40:55,327
I do feel
like so much innovation
770
00:40:55,328 --> 00:40:57,413
comes out of Basque cuisine.
771
00:40:57,414 --> 00:40:58,914
Why do you think that is?
772
00:40:58,915 --> 00:41:00,416
Everybody say that.
773
00:41:00,417 --> 00:41:02,918
The Basque between
is eating for lunch,
774
00:41:02,919 --> 00:41:05,421
is thinking in dinner
all the time.
775
00:41:05,422 --> 00:41:06,922
All the time.
776
00:41:06,923 --> 00:41:08,716
Everybody
in the Basque Country cooks.
777
00:41:08,717 --> 00:41:13,137
Everybody. Like something
natural or intuitive.
778
00:41:13,138 --> 00:41:18,100
Creating a new recipes
or new concepts or new views
779
00:41:18,101 --> 00:41:19,768
or new ways to work.
780
00:41:19,769 --> 00:41:21,270
They're just always
looking to push
781
00:41:21,271 --> 00:41:23,689
the boundaries of cuisine.
782
00:41:23,690 --> 00:41:26,650
And this is something
that we can use
783
00:41:26,651 --> 00:41:30,571
to build the future
new Basque gastronomy.
784
00:41:30,572 --> 00:41:32,281
The new new
Basque gastronomy.
785
00:41:32,282 --> 00:41:34,742
New new Basque gastronomy.
786
00:41:37,454 --> 00:41:40,080
{\an8}-I think this is what makes
the Basque Country special.
787
00:41:40,081 --> 00:41:42,750
{\an8}The people are secure
in being part of Spain,
788
00:41:42,751 --> 00:41:46,921
{\an8}yet proud of their
unique history and traditions.
789
00:41:46,922 --> 00:41:48,547
{\an8}They embrace innovation,
790
00:41:48,548 --> 00:41:51,675
{\an8}confident that it won't destroy
their identity.
791
00:41:51,676 --> 00:41:52,968
{\an8}So they're always looking
outwards,
792
00:41:52,969 --> 00:41:55,095
{\an8}welcoming diverse influences
793
00:41:55,096 --> 00:41:56,805
{\an8}and building
on their traditions
794
00:41:56,806 --> 00:41:59,099
{\an8}to create new ideas.
795
00:41:59,100 --> 00:42:02,020
{\an8}And of course,
doing it all the Basque way.
796
00:42:04,397 --> 00:42:05,607
{\an8}Cheers. Salud.
62746
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