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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:12,638 --> 00:00:14,514 Here it comes. 2 00:00:14,515 --> 00:00:15,725 Ah! 3 00:00:17,143 --> 00:00:19,144 I want to hug it. 4 00:00:19,145 --> 00:00:22,147 I'm not in a-- the storm. This isn't the weather. 5 00:00:22,148 --> 00:00:25,900 This is an actual fog sculpture here 6 00:00:25,901 --> 00:00:28,570 at the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. 7 00:00:28,571 --> 00:00:31,030 The Basque Country is a global Mecca 8 00:00:31,031 --> 00:00:33,366 for creativity and innovation, 9 00:00:33,367 --> 00:00:36,369 and exchanging ideas with the rest of the world 10 00:00:36,370 --> 00:00:40,039 is a tradition that stretches back centuries. 11 00:00:40,040 --> 00:00:42,375 It's very fitting that this is here 12 00:00:42,376 --> 00:00:46,129 because the Basque people are so innovative and creative 13 00:00:46,130 --> 00:00:49,424 when it comes to culture and of course, food. 14 00:00:55,306 --> 00:00:56,806 I'm Eva Longoria. 15 00:00:56,807 --> 00:00:59,226 And I'm a proud Mexican American. 16 00:01:00,186 --> 00:01:01,478 11 generations ago, 17 00:01:01,479 --> 00:01:03,188 one of my ancestors 18 00:01:03,189 --> 00:01:06,524 left Spain for the new world and a new life. 19 00:01:06,525 --> 00:01:09,152 400 years later, I'm back. 20 00:01:09,153 --> 00:01:10,862 I'm so excited! 21 00:01:10,863 --> 00:01:12,655 - Salud. - Salud. 22 00:01:12,656 --> 00:01:15,950 And I'm exploring Spain and its 17 regions 23 00:01:15,951 --> 00:01:18,453 to see how the land and its people 24 00:01:18,454 --> 00:01:22,415 have created one of the world's most exciting cuisines. 25 00:01:22,416 --> 00:01:24,209 I think you know what you're doing. 26 00:01:24,210 --> 00:01:27,378 The Basques are Spain's great mystery. 27 00:01:27,379 --> 00:01:30,048 They're the oldest surviving society in Europe. 28 00:01:30,049 --> 00:01:33,134 So ancient, that their origins are unknown. 29 00:01:33,135 --> 00:01:35,220 Everything is coming from my memory, 30 00:01:35,221 --> 00:01:37,223 from the soul of my family. 31 00:01:38,224 --> 00:01:40,099 But they're also at the modern, cutting edge 32 00:01:40,100 --> 00:01:42,393 of innovation and creativity. 33 00:01:42,394 --> 00:01:44,562 It's very important to be open-minded. 34 00:01:44,563 --> 00:01:47,190 Right, and I think that's what makes you guys so special. 35 00:01:47,191 --> 00:01:49,984 Here they speak the ancient language "Euskara." 36 00:01:51,278 --> 00:01:53,154 And many Basques 37 00:01:53,155 --> 00:01:55,114 don't consider themselves to be Spanish at all. 38 00:01:55,115 --> 00:01:59,285 Their centuries-old traditions evoke strong emotions. 39 00:02:06,669 --> 00:02:09,295 And here there are only two ways-- 40 00:02:09,296 --> 00:02:11,799 the Basque way and the wrong way. 41 00:02:15,135 --> 00:02:16,178 {\an8}Ah! 42 00:02:17,638 --> 00:02:19,973 In the kitchen, this passion has driven 43 00:02:19,974 --> 00:02:21,599 their innovative chefs... 44 00:02:21,600 --> 00:02:23,142 What is this?! 45 00:02:23,143 --> 00:02:25,436 - They ain't got that in Texas. - No. 46 00:02:25,437 --> 00:02:28,690 ...to constantly reinterpret their culinary heritage... 47 00:02:28,691 --> 00:02:30,108 Look at this. 48 00:02:30,109 --> 00:02:32,277 It's like magic in front of our eyes. 49 00:02:32,278 --> 00:02:34,864 ...into world-renowned works of art. 50 00:02:35,823 --> 00:02:38,783 {\an8}This is cuisine at a different level. 51 00:02:38,784 --> 00:02:40,201 I don't know what I'm going to do after this. 52 00:02:40,202 --> 00:02:43,037 I think we just throw in the towel, guys. 53 00:02:43,038 --> 00:02:44,664 We have found Spain. 54 00:03:06,186 --> 00:03:09,147 The tiny Basque country is cut off from the rest of Spain 55 00:03:09,148 --> 00:03:11,774 by soaring mountains. 56 00:03:11,775 --> 00:03:13,985 It's led to an independent spirit 57 00:03:13,986 --> 00:03:17,488 that has seen them fight back Roman conquest, 58 00:03:17,489 --> 00:03:20,199 repel Moorish invaders, 59 00:03:20,200 --> 00:03:23,870 rebel against fascist dictator General Franco, 60 00:03:23,871 --> 00:03:27,498 and overcome decades of separatist violence 61 00:03:27,499 --> 00:03:29,375 to find the peace and prosperity 62 00:03:29,376 --> 00:03:30,960 they enjoy today. 63 00:03:30,961 --> 00:03:32,670 and at the region's heart 64 00:03:32,671 --> 00:03:36,090 is the elegant seaside city of San Sebastian 65 00:03:36,091 --> 00:03:39,261 or "Donostia," as the Basque call it. 66 00:03:40,346 --> 00:03:41,763 Hi! - Hi! 67 00:03:41,764 --> 00:03:44,265 - Nice to meet you. - Nice to meet you, too. 68 00:03:44,266 --> 00:03:46,643 An American and San Sebastian. 69 00:03:46,644 --> 00:03:48,686 Food writer, Marti Buckley 70 00:03:48,687 --> 00:03:51,064 has been savoring every bite here 71 00:03:51,065 --> 00:03:55,401 since trading Alabama for San Sebastian 15 years ago. 72 00:03:55,402 --> 00:03:57,528 Whenever anybody comes to visit me in San Sebastian, 73 00:03:57,529 --> 00:03:59,238 the first thing I like to do is take them for pintxos . 74 00:03:59,239 --> 00:04:00,949 - Oh, really? - Yes. 75 00:04:00,950 --> 00:04:02,367 It's the best introduction to the Basque cuisine, 76 00:04:02,368 --> 00:04:03,451 to how people eat here, 77 00:04:03,452 --> 00:04:04,827 to the culture. - Yeah. 78 00:04:04,828 --> 00:04:06,496 And we just keep going all night long. 79 00:04:06,497 --> 00:04:08,081 How could it not be? - I mean, is that the plan? 80 00:04:08,082 --> 00:04:10,584 - That's the plan. - Great. 81 00:04:14,213 --> 00:04:16,214 Pintxo is Spanish for spike. 82 00:04:16,215 --> 00:04:18,007 And around here, food on a stick 83 00:04:18,008 --> 00:04:21,177 has been elevated to an art form. 84 00:04:21,178 --> 00:04:23,554 Locals bounce from bar to bar, 85 00:04:23,555 --> 00:04:27,768 nibbling on pintxos and sipping Txakoli, the local wine. 86 00:04:31,438 --> 00:04:35,024 So Marty has brought me to the iconic Casa Valles 87 00:04:35,025 --> 00:04:39,404 the bar that created the first pintxos back in the 1940's. 88 00:04:39,405 --> 00:04:41,656 So are all pintxos eaten at a bar? 89 00:04:41,657 --> 00:04:44,033 Yes, standing up and eating at the bar. 90 00:04:44,034 --> 00:04:45,994 You need to be able to eat it in 2 or 3 bites 91 00:04:45,995 --> 00:04:47,829 because you're meant to stay on the move. 92 00:04:47,830 --> 00:04:49,539 One bar, one pintxo , move on. 93 00:04:49,540 --> 00:04:52,000 So we are on the bar crawl of pintxos. 94 00:04:52,001 --> 00:04:54,085 Yes. That's it. This is us. 95 00:04:54,086 --> 00:04:58,089 This is the Gilda an example of really the earliest pintxo. 96 00:04:58,090 --> 00:05:01,259 It's Manzanilla olive, some pickled Guindilla peppers, 97 00:05:01,260 --> 00:05:03,678 and the salty Cantabrian anchovy. 98 00:05:03,679 --> 00:05:05,596 Okay, so you see the shape. 99 00:05:05,597 --> 00:05:07,432 You see how it's kind of like a woman's body. 100 00:05:07,433 --> 00:05:09,350 - Yeah. - It's actually named after Rita Hayworth. 101 00:05:09,351 --> 00:05:11,894 Her movie "Gilda". - Oh, my God. 102 00:05:11,895 --> 00:05:13,730 - Yeah. - I love Rita Hayworth. 103 00:05:13,731 --> 00:05:16,941 I didn't even know that. 104 00:05:16,942 --> 00:05:19,652 The story goes that despite censorship 105 00:05:19,653 --> 00:05:21,195 during the fascist regime 106 00:05:21,196 --> 00:05:23,281 of Spain's dictator General Franco, 107 00:05:23,282 --> 00:05:27,994 Rita Hayworth's 1946 movie "Gilda" was a sensation. 108 00:05:27,995 --> 00:05:31,330 To some, her allure showed defiance 109 00:05:31,331 --> 00:05:33,708 against the conservative values of the time, 110 00:05:33,709 --> 00:05:36,836 inspiring a small rebellion in the very Basque way 111 00:05:36,837 --> 00:05:39,130 through food. - Really, the earliest pintxos. 112 00:05:39,131 --> 00:05:42,383 Beautiful. So, is it supposed to be eaten in one bite? 113 00:05:42,384 --> 00:05:44,719 - Yeah. - That's pretty big. 114 00:05:44,720 --> 00:05:46,554 Okay, you go first. So I want to see... 115 00:05:46,555 --> 00:05:50,725 - Okay. Okay. - Oh, you-- Oh, she's a pintxo expert. 116 00:05:50,726 --> 00:05:53,771 Go ahead and show off. Okay, I'm gonna try. 117 00:05:56,899 --> 00:05:59,901 - Mm-hmm. - The flavors blend so well together. 118 00:05:59,902 --> 00:06:02,195 - That is so good. - It is. 119 00:06:02,196 --> 00:06:05,323 Wow. There's a lot of different flavors at one time. 120 00:06:05,324 --> 00:06:06,574 That's why you have to eat it in one bite. 121 00:06:06,575 --> 00:06:10,703 - Yes. - This is my kind of bar, 122 00:06:10,704 --> 00:06:13,749 my kind of drink, my kind of food. 123 00:06:18,087 --> 00:06:19,837 San Sebastian is just like this perfect storm. 124 00:06:19,838 --> 00:06:23,049 It's this place where you have amazing ingredients. 125 00:06:23,050 --> 00:06:25,051 And then you have this tradition of cooking, 126 00:06:25,052 --> 00:06:29,388 which has led to, like, this demand from the Basque people 127 00:06:29,389 --> 00:06:31,933 who hold all the restaurateurs to a high account. 128 00:06:31,934 --> 00:06:34,519 Today, the pintxo has evolved beyond the stick, 129 00:06:34,520 --> 00:06:37,063 and the Basque obsession with eating well 130 00:06:37,064 --> 00:06:41,609 has turned their bar snacks into world renowned food. 131 00:06:41,610 --> 00:06:44,612 To España. 132 00:06:44,613 --> 00:06:47,073 Hola! Now, each bar competes 133 00:06:47,074 --> 00:06:48,908 to become the local's favorite. 134 00:06:48,909 --> 00:06:51,369 My favorite pintxo is delizia. 135 00:06:51,370 --> 00:06:53,371 Oh, what is it? What is-- What is on top of it? 136 00:06:53,372 --> 00:06:56,582 It's got a slice of bread, a salt cured anchovy, 137 00:06:56,583 --> 00:06:58,167 hard boiled egg, mayonnaise, 138 00:06:58,168 --> 00:07:00,545 and this amazing onion parsley egg vinaigrette. 139 00:07:00,546 --> 00:07:03,005 {\an8}- Wow. - This is the secret-- 140 00:07:03,006 --> 00:07:05,091 {\an8}secret garnish. 141 00:07:05,092 --> 00:07:07,176 {\an8}Worcestershire sauce. 142 00:07:07,177 --> 00:07:08,803 {\an8}Don't make me say it. I can't-- 143 00:07:08,804 --> 00:07:11,556 {\an8}I can't say it any better than-- than you. 144 00:07:11,557 --> 00:07:13,684 {\an8}- Cheers. - Cheers. 145 00:07:17,396 --> 00:07:20,524 {\an8}Mmm. So good. - Wow. 146 00:07:28,824 --> 00:07:30,576 {\an8}The onion, the parsley. 147 00:07:32,536 --> 00:07:33,787 {\an8}Wow. 148 00:07:37,166 --> 00:07:39,458 Owner Jésus serves up dozens of pintxos 149 00:07:39,459 --> 00:07:41,753 at La Espiga every night. 150 00:07:45,799 --> 00:07:48,259 From staples like deep fried ruby red peppers 151 00:07:48,260 --> 00:07:50,845 stuffed with meat... 152 00:07:50,846 --> 00:07:54,557 Oh, my God. This one might be my favorite one on the tour so far. 153 00:07:54,558 --> 00:07:56,475 ...to seasonal specials that change 154 00:07:56,476 --> 00:07:58,519 depending on what is harvested in the mountains 155 00:07:58,520 --> 00:08:00,397 or caught at sea. 156 00:08:10,157 --> 00:08:13,117 Oh! You gotta try that. Have you had this one? 157 00:08:13,118 --> 00:08:15,203 This is a life changing trip for me, 158 00:08:15,204 --> 00:08:17,914 eating so many anchovies. 159 00:08:17,915 --> 00:08:19,999 Why are they so popular in the Basque Country? 160 00:08:20,000 --> 00:08:21,918 They're a special fish, 161 00:08:21,919 --> 00:08:23,127 'cause the ones this time of year are at their peak 162 00:08:23,128 --> 00:08:24,879 because they're breeding. 163 00:08:24,880 --> 00:08:26,464 And so they're, like, nice and rich and fatty. 164 00:08:26,465 --> 00:08:28,008 {\an8}Oh, my God. 165 00:08:31,011 --> 00:08:32,471 {\an8}No, no. 166 00:08:34,431 --> 00:08:37,642 Pintxo bar hopping is central to Basque identity, 167 00:08:37,643 --> 00:08:39,977 but it's hard not to notice the similarity 168 00:08:39,978 --> 00:08:43,064 to Spain's other iconic small plates. 169 00:08:43,065 --> 00:08:47,026 What's the difference between pintxos and tapas? 170 00:08:47,027 --> 00:08:48,736 Okay, this is definitely the question 171 00:08:48,737 --> 00:08:50,947 that I get the most-- - Is this controversial? 172 00:08:50,948 --> 00:08:52,615 Am I asking something controversial? 173 00:08:52,616 --> 00:08:54,242 It's not controversial per se, 174 00:08:54,243 --> 00:08:56,744 but the tapa, you know, it's usually, like, 175 00:08:56,745 --> 00:08:59,330 one food item in quantity on a plate, 176 00:08:59,331 --> 00:09:01,123 whereas the pintxo is always sort of elaborate 177 00:09:01,124 --> 00:09:02,458 with several ingredients. - Oh. Oh. 178 00:09:02,459 --> 00:09:03,877 Marti... 179 00:09:06,838 --> 00:09:08,047 {\an8}- Yup. That's it. - Okay. 180 00:09:08,048 --> 00:09:09,340 {\an8}Don't get that wrong, guys. 181 00:09:09,341 --> 00:09:10,925 - Okay. - Don't get that wrong. 182 00:09:10,926 --> 00:09:12,677 This is amazing. Muchas gracias. 183 00:09:12,678 --> 00:09:14,679 Thank you, Jésus. 184 00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:17,807 Here, you have to do things in a certain style. 185 00:09:17,808 --> 00:09:21,769 And even a bar crawl is an expression of the Basque way. 186 00:09:32,030 --> 00:09:33,948 For millennia, the Basque Mountains 187 00:09:33,949 --> 00:09:36,200 have acted like castle walls... 188 00:09:36,201 --> 00:09:38,703 Look at this. 189 00:09:38,704 --> 00:09:41,414 Beautiful. 190 00:09:41,415 --> 00:09:46,335 ...dividing Spain's sun-soaked Mediterranean south... 191 00:09:46,336 --> 00:09:49,255 and this wilder Atlantic north. 192 00:09:51,508 --> 00:09:55,928 And in these mountains is the town of Tolosa, 193 00:09:55,929 --> 00:09:58,681 a medieval trading point for Basques meeting merchants 194 00:09:58,682 --> 00:10:01,392 from the rest of Spain. 195 00:10:01,393 --> 00:10:04,812 Its market has been running since the 13th century, 196 00:10:04,813 --> 00:10:07,356 and today, the Mercado del Tinglado 197 00:10:07,357 --> 00:10:09,608 is still filled with treasures. 198 00:10:16,450 --> 00:10:20,578 Oh, my God. I want everything. 199 00:10:20,579 --> 00:10:23,956 This is a dangerous place to be when you've skipped breakfast. 200 00:10:23,957 --> 00:10:26,418 Honey? Is this honey? 201 00:10:30,797 --> 00:10:33,049 {\an8}Okay, I'm gonna grab a fuet. 202 00:10:38,055 --> 00:10:39,890 {\an8}This is my favorite thing. 203 00:10:41,808 --> 00:10:43,934 {\an8}No, no... - Si. 204 00:10:46,521 --> 00:10:48,814 I did get some good stuff. 205 00:10:48,815 --> 00:10:51,108 I got some kind of lemon cheese. 206 00:10:51,109 --> 00:10:52,777 I'm-- I'm so happy. 207 00:10:52,778 --> 00:10:54,653 But I actually didn't come here to eat. 208 00:10:54,654 --> 00:11:02,453 I came here to find these very famous Tolosa beans. 209 00:11:02,454 --> 00:11:06,165 As a Texican, I consider myself a bean aficionado. 210 00:11:06,166 --> 00:11:08,459 Hola. 211 00:11:08,460 --> 00:11:10,920 - Que va? - How are you? 212 00:11:10,921 --> 00:11:13,756 So I'm meeting Javier Rivero Yarza, 213 00:11:13,757 --> 00:11:15,716 one of the town's best chefs, 214 00:11:15,717 --> 00:11:18,803 to figure out why their beans are so beloved. 215 00:11:18,804 --> 00:11:21,347 We are going to prepare our famous black bean-- 216 00:11:21,348 --> 00:11:23,391 - These are them! - These are the black beans. 217 00:11:23,392 --> 00:11:25,768 - Oh, my God. - We have different varieties 218 00:11:25,769 --> 00:11:28,979 of beans in Spain, but for us, the most special one 219 00:11:28,980 --> 00:11:31,399 is the black bean from Tolosa. - Tolosa. 220 00:11:31,400 --> 00:11:33,234 - We call it the black pearl. - Oh. 221 00:11:33,235 --> 00:11:36,737 You call it the black pearl? - Or in Basque, babarruna. 222 00:11:36,738 --> 00:11:39,031 - Babarruna. - Babarruna. 223 00:11:39,032 --> 00:11:41,534 I do have some money. 224 00:11:41,535 --> 00:11:44,161 You are not going to buy any much more product with this. 225 00:11:45,872 --> 00:11:48,249 I spent it all on my cheese. 226 00:11:51,503 --> 00:11:55,047 To cook them, Javi is taking me to a txoko, 227 00:11:55,048 --> 00:11:58,093 one of the Basques most unique institutions. 228 00:11:59,428 --> 00:12:03,681 Hola! Wow, this is beautiful. 229 00:12:03,682 --> 00:12:05,975 What is it, a club or something? - Something similar. 230 00:12:05,976 --> 00:12:07,726 This is a gastronomic society. 231 00:12:07,727 --> 00:12:09,687 The Basque Country is full of them. 232 00:12:09,688 --> 00:12:12,356 It's a tradition started in the mid-19th century 233 00:12:12,357 --> 00:12:15,401 by men looking for a late night drink 234 00:12:15,402 --> 00:12:18,446 and somewhere to cook and share recipes. 235 00:12:18,447 --> 00:12:20,156 These days, women are included 236 00:12:20,157 --> 00:12:23,118 in the 1,500 clubs throughout the region. 237 00:12:24,828 --> 00:12:27,163 And today, we're in charge of lunch, 238 00:12:27,164 --> 00:12:30,167 cooking one of the town's most treasured recipes. 239 00:12:31,460 --> 00:12:35,379 We are cooking Tolosa classic black bean, 240 00:12:35,380 --> 00:12:37,339 and this is the traditional way of preparing them. 241 00:12:37,340 --> 00:12:38,799 Oh, okay, 'cause there's different ways. 242 00:12:38,800 --> 00:12:40,342 Not for us, because for us, 243 00:12:40,343 --> 00:12:42,052 it's the only way of cooking them. 244 00:12:42,053 --> 00:12:43,179 - It's the only way. - And the most-- 245 00:12:43,180 --> 00:12:44,763 Yeah. And the best one. 246 00:12:44,764 --> 00:12:46,515 So we are going to put them. - Is there salt 247 00:12:46,516 --> 00:12:48,392 or anything in the water? - No. 248 00:12:48,393 --> 00:12:51,479 It's very important because if we add the salt at first, 249 00:12:51,480 --> 00:12:54,190 the bean is going to break. 250 00:12:54,191 --> 00:12:56,275 - And if it break-- - That's why my beans break. 251 00:12:56,276 --> 00:12:58,194 I make pinto beans all the time. - Maybe. Yeah. 252 00:12:58,195 --> 00:13:00,779 And I put salt in the water. 253 00:13:00,780 --> 00:13:03,324 You haven't put any spices in yet. 254 00:13:03,325 --> 00:13:04,992 Like, where are the spices? - No, I know. 255 00:13:04,993 --> 00:13:07,328 We are not going to add any spice in this recipe. 256 00:13:07,329 --> 00:13:09,080 It's very traditional. 257 00:13:10,207 --> 00:13:13,335 It's a far cry from how we do it back in Texas. 258 00:13:14,794 --> 00:13:16,795 But at the gastronomic society, 259 00:13:16,796 --> 00:13:20,132 even the simplest of recipes are like sacred rites. 260 00:13:20,133 --> 00:13:22,009 When did your love of cooking begin? 261 00:13:22,010 --> 00:13:25,054 I love cooking because this food was prepared by my mother, 262 00:13:25,055 --> 00:13:26,680 by my grandmother. 263 00:13:26,681 --> 00:13:29,350 First cooking, it's like the feeling we want 264 00:13:29,351 --> 00:13:32,478 to take care about the people the way a mother... 265 00:13:32,479 --> 00:13:34,355 Would take care of her family. 266 00:13:34,356 --> 00:13:37,191 Oh. That's beautiful. - That's why. 267 00:13:37,192 --> 00:13:39,360 Look. This look like hot chocolate. 268 00:13:39,361 --> 00:13:41,695 This is, like, very-- - It looks like chocolate. 269 00:13:41,696 --> 00:13:45,491 Now, that sauce is just generated by the bean? 270 00:13:45,492 --> 00:13:47,451 Yeah, and that's why it's so special. 271 00:13:47,452 --> 00:13:49,328 Wow. That is a magical bean. 272 00:13:49,329 --> 00:13:51,080 Why is that? Why do you think it has that? 273 00:13:51,081 --> 00:13:52,706 I think it's because of the ground. 274 00:13:52,707 --> 00:13:55,209 We have a really beautiful mountains around. 275 00:13:55,210 --> 00:13:56,752 The ground is very rich. 276 00:13:56,753 --> 00:13:59,004 And also there is here a lot of knowledge 277 00:13:59,005 --> 00:14:03,592 about how to grow this bean to be magical, special. 278 00:14:03,593 --> 00:14:05,469 And they're not broken. None of them. 279 00:14:05,470 --> 00:14:08,639 And you have done another thing which is prohibited. 280 00:14:08,640 --> 00:14:11,058 Ahh! I touched it? 281 00:14:11,059 --> 00:14:14,228 - Don't touch it. - You can't put in the spoon. 282 00:14:14,229 --> 00:14:16,272 - Why? - Because they break. 283 00:14:16,273 --> 00:14:18,649 Okay, so we're not supposed to break the beans, ever? 284 00:14:18,650 --> 00:14:23,445 This movement is the way to move the beans. 285 00:14:23,446 --> 00:14:27,658 It doesn't look like I'm getting a utensil anytime soon. 286 00:14:27,659 --> 00:14:29,201 Okay, I'm tired. 287 00:14:29,202 --> 00:14:30,995 But maybe it's for the best, 288 00:14:30,996 --> 00:14:32,913 as it sounds like the club members will know 289 00:14:32,914 --> 00:14:34,957 if we've messed with tradition. 290 00:14:34,958 --> 00:14:37,960 Salting the beans. 291 00:14:37,961 --> 00:14:41,255 With the salt going in at the last possible moment... 292 00:14:41,256 --> 00:14:43,048 Yeah. That's enough. 293 00:14:43,049 --> 00:14:46,677 ...the beans are ready, and we can finally use a ladle. 294 00:14:46,678 --> 00:14:49,638 Oh, you're touching the beans! Just for me? 295 00:14:49,639 --> 00:14:51,140 No. You didn't-- Yeah, just for you. 296 00:14:53,059 --> 00:14:56,478 And serve them up with some local sausages and ribs. 297 00:14:56,479 --> 00:14:59,399 Hola. - Hola. 298 00:15:04,779 --> 00:15:06,280 {\an8}Alubias. Bien. 299 00:15:11,161 --> 00:15:13,162 Buen provecho. 300 00:15:15,457 --> 00:15:18,083 Oh, my God. 301 00:15:18,084 --> 00:15:20,628 Wow. 302 00:15:20,629 --> 00:15:22,504 Well done. - Well done. 303 00:15:24,341 --> 00:15:27,676 It's so crazy how flavorful this is. 304 00:15:27,677 --> 00:15:31,681 Don Luis, what exactly is a gastronomical society? 305 00:15:48,907 --> 00:15:50,116 {\an8}Oh, si? 306 00:16:14,432 --> 00:16:16,267 {\an8}Yay! 307 00:16:18,395 --> 00:16:20,730 - Yeah! - We have a lot of friends here. 308 00:16:22,232 --> 00:16:24,525 These societies may be joyful places, 309 00:16:24,526 --> 00:16:27,236 but their role in protecting Basque traditions 310 00:16:27,237 --> 00:16:28,737 has been serious. 311 00:16:31,324 --> 00:16:33,117 In the 1930s, 312 00:16:33,118 --> 00:16:35,119 the Basques fought against Franco's fascists 313 00:16:35,120 --> 00:16:37,204 in the Civil war. 314 00:16:37,205 --> 00:16:41,458 So after he won, he set out to destroy Basque identity. 315 00:16:41,459 --> 00:16:43,085 During the regime, 316 00:16:43,086 --> 00:16:46,046 their language and institutions were banned. 317 00:16:46,047 --> 00:16:48,507 Thousands of dissenters were imprisoned, 318 00:16:48,508 --> 00:16:50,259 tortured, and killed, 319 00:16:50,260 --> 00:16:54,596 and more than 150,000 Basques went into exile. 320 00:17:26,463 --> 00:17:30,215 So that made almost the gastronomical societies 321 00:17:30,216 --> 00:17:31,925 even more important. 322 00:17:31,926 --> 00:17:34,762 And we believe that these gastronomic societies 323 00:17:34,763 --> 00:17:37,222 could preserve this Basque culture in the future. 324 00:17:37,223 --> 00:17:40,559 And if you can preserve your food and your recipes, 325 00:17:40,560 --> 00:17:43,772 then you can teach the rest of the world who you are. 326 00:17:45,607 --> 00:17:47,608 {\an8}Ready? Cheers. 327 00:17:47,609 --> 00:17:48,859 {\an8}Tolosa. - Tolosa. 328 00:17:48,860 --> 00:17:51,779 Tolosa. 329 00:17:51,780 --> 00:17:55,199 Today, Basque food and culture is recognized globally. 330 00:17:57,160 --> 00:17:59,495 And given the hard road it took to get here, 331 00:17:59,496 --> 00:18:01,789 there is much to celebrate. 332 00:18:34,072 --> 00:18:36,657 Hola, Eva. Down, down to the right. 333 00:18:36,658 --> 00:18:38,826 {\an8}- Okay. - Si. I meet you there. 334 00:18:38,827 --> 00:18:40,912 - Okay. Thank you. - Hasta ahora. 335 00:18:42,038 --> 00:18:43,872 Amazingly, a quarter of Spain's 336 00:18:43,873 --> 00:18:45,707 three Michelin star restaurants, 337 00:18:45,708 --> 00:18:49,169 their highest accolade, are in the Basque Country. 338 00:18:49,170 --> 00:18:51,880 - Eva. - I can't believe 339 00:18:51,881 --> 00:18:53,423 Elena knew my name. 340 00:18:53,424 --> 00:18:55,843 Elena Arzak. She's, like, Basque royalty. 341 00:18:55,844 --> 00:18:57,803 It's like I'm meeting the queen. 342 00:18:57,804 --> 00:19:01,098 In fact, San Sebastian is home to the highest number 343 00:19:01,099 --> 00:19:03,725 of Michelin stars per head in Europe. 344 00:19:03,726 --> 00:19:06,396 {\an8}Hola! Bienvenida. 345 00:19:11,192 --> 00:19:14,027 Restaurant Arzak is the jewel in that crown. 346 00:19:14,028 --> 00:19:18,198 One of the most important restaurants in the world. 347 00:19:18,199 --> 00:19:20,242 Started by Elena's great grandmother 348 00:19:20,243 --> 00:19:22,744 as a tavern in 1897, 349 00:19:22,745 --> 00:19:26,582 generations of the Arzak family have taken the helm, 350 00:19:26,583 --> 00:19:30,919 and Elena has been voted the world's best female chef. 351 00:19:30,920 --> 00:19:34,423 So it's fair to say this isn't a kitchen to mess with. 352 00:19:34,424 --> 00:19:36,133 {\an8}Okay, wait, let me put my hair back, 353 00:19:36,134 --> 00:19:38,720 {\an8}because I feel like I'm a health code violation. 354 00:19:42,682 --> 00:19:44,809 {\an8}- Hola, Cynthia. - Hola. 355 00:19:48,897 --> 00:19:50,647 {\an8}She's the head chef. 356 00:19:50,648 --> 00:19:52,525 {\an8}I love that it's two women. 357 00:19:53,776 --> 00:19:55,402 {\an8}Claro. 358 00:19:55,403 --> 00:19:57,738 Before the stars and the global acclaim, 359 00:19:57,739 --> 00:20:00,741 Elena's grandmother served up Basque staples. 360 00:20:00,742 --> 00:20:04,411 And they still inform today's cooking. 361 00:20:04,412 --> 00:20:06,204 We are going to cook kokotxas. 362 00:20:06,205 --> 00:20:08,624 Very traditional from the Basque cuisine. 363 00:20:08,625 --> 00:20:10,250 Kokotxas? The kokotxa 364 00:20:10,251 --> 00:20:11,793 comes from the head. 365 00:20:11,794 --> 00:20:14,171 Here is the kokotxa. - Oh, there. The throat? 366 00:20:14,172 --> 00:20:16,590 It's very special for the Basques. 367 00:20:16,591 --> 00:20:18,926 We adore kokotxas. She will take it out. 368 00:20:18,927 --> 00:20:20,719 - Okay. - You are with the princess 369 00:20:20,720 --> 00:20:22,220 of the sea. - Oh. 370 00:20:22,221 --> 00:20:24,139 She's the princess of the sea. 371 00:20:24,140 --> 00:20:27,351 Oh. 372 00:20:27,352 --> 00:20:29,561 That's it right there. 373 00:20:29,562 --> 00:20:31,355 Once considered a waste product, 374 00:20:31,356 --> 00:20:33,982 Basque fishermen started cooking up the kokotxas 375 00:20:33,983 --> 00:20:36,777 in clay pots called cazuelas. 376 00:20:36,778 --> 00:20:39,196 - As you can see... - It's just in olive oil? 377 00:20:39,197 --> 00:20:44,159 Si. These are in olive oil, is infused with chopped garlic. 378 00:20:44,160 --> 00:20:47,329 For us, extra virgin olive oil is like water. 379 00:20:47,330 --> 00:20:48,997 We need it to live. 380 00:20:48,998 --> 00:20:50,749 To eat everything. 381 00:20:50,750 --> 00:20:54,044 Ah, okay. Now you empty it. 382 00:20:54,045 --> 00:20:55,754 - You will see. - Okay. 383 00:20:55,755 --> 00:20:57,923 The technique is called pil pil. 384 00:20:57,924 --> 00:20:59,132 - Pil pil. - Pil pil. 385 00:20:59,133 --> 00:21:00,717 What is the translation of that? 386 00:21:00,718 --> 00:21:03,303 - Pil pil. - Okay. 387 00:21:03,304 --> 00:21:05,806 You have... - To make slow movement first. 388 00:21:05,807 --> 00:21:08,266 - Uh-huh. - For no broke the kokotxas. 389 00:21:08,267 --> 00:21:10,227 - To not break them. - Yes. 390 00:21:10,228 --> 00:21:12,813 You make, like, a type like mayonnaise. 391 00:21:12,814 --> 00:21:15,023 - Oh, okay. - Only with the oil 392 00:21:15,024 --> 00:21:16,566 and the kokotxas. - Oh. 393 00:21:16,567 --> 00:21:19,528 No more. So that kokotxa have collagen. 394 00:21:19,529 --> 00:21:21,905 It's all collagen. - Collagen. I need collagen. 395 00:21:21,906 --> 00:21:25,117 I want some collagen. 396 00:21:25,118 --> 00:21:27,452 - And now she dance. - Now we dance. Now we all dance. 397 00:21:27,453 --> 00:21:29,204 Slow all your move. 398 00:21:31,457 --> 00:21:33,083 Look at it. It's making a sauce. 399 00:21:33,084 --> 00:21:35,669 - It's great, eh, Eva? - Look at this. 400 00:21:35,670 --> 00:21:39,423 What's happening? It's like magic in front of our eyes. 401 00:21:39,424 --> 00:21:41,550 This is so crazy. Just by moving the fish. 402 00:21:41,551 --> 00:21:44,845 - Just by moving. - Oh, my gosh. 403 00:21:44,846 --> 00:21:48,182 And this traditional version, it's as simple as that. 404 00:21:49,392 --> 00:21:52,936 Wow. That is a super rich sauce. - Yeah. 405 00:21:52,937 --> 00:21:55,355 It just melts in your mouth, very creamy. 406 00:21:55,356 --> 00:21:57,274 And you can taste the beauty of the fish. 407 00:21:57,275 --> 00:21:58,943 It's so fresh. 408 00:22:01,112 --> 00:22:04,114 But today, Elena's kitchen has given Granny's classic 409 00:22:04,115 --> 00:22:06,033 a 21st century upgrade, 410 00:22:06,034 --> 00:22:09,287 serving them up with fermented leeks and peppers... 411 00:22:10,747 --> 00:22:13,540 ...and a savory squid ink stamp. 412 00:22:13,541 --> 00:22:16,001 It was the reimagining of traditions 413 00:22:16,002 --> 00:22:18,754 that won Arzak its global reputation 414 00:22:18,755 --> 00:22:22,924 under the leadership of Elena's father, Juan Mari. 415 00:22:22,925 --> 00:22:24,801 For his generation of Basques, 416 00:22:24,802 --> 00:22:27,554 General Franco's death and the end of fascism 417 00:22:27,555 --> 00:22:32,851 in 1975 allowed them to publicly embrace their culture. 418 00:22:32,852 --> 00:22:35,103 It was a revolution. 419 00:22:35,104 --> 00:22:37,606 And alongside other local chefs, 420 00:22:37,607 --> 00:22:41,193 Juan Mari started the new Basque cuisine movement, 421 00:22:41,194 --> 00:22:42,944 blending Basque traditions 422 00:22:42,945 --> 00:22:46,364 with the flair of French nouvelle cuisine. 423 00:22:46,365 --> 00:22:48,325 It set off a chain reaction, 424 00:22:48,326 --> 00:22:50,077 eventually bringing Basque cooking 425 00:22:50,078 --> 00:22:51,787 global recognition 426 00:22:51,788 --> 00:22:54,498 and inspiring chefs across the country, 427 00:22:54,499 --> 00:22:58,335 putting Spain on a totally new culinary path. 428 00:22:58,336 --> 00:23:01,880 We try to be... very Basque, 429 00:23:01,881 --> 00:23:04,382 but also trying to use the ingredients 430 00:23:04,383 --> 00:23:06,343 and the techniques for other cultures 431 00:23:06,344 --> 00:23:09,471 that can enrich our cuisine. 432 00:23:09,472 --> 00:23:11,556 It's very important to be open-minded. 433 00:23:11,557 --> 00:23:13,683 Right. And I think that's what makes you guys so special. 434 00:23:13,684 --> 00:23:16,353 - Bueno. - This outward-looking approach 435 00:23:16,354 --> 00:23:18,605 is alive in today's kitchen, 436 00:23:18,606 --> 00:23:21,149 and dishes like sea bass with blades of onion 437 00:23:21,150 --> 00:23:23,777 are a perfect fusion of Basque roots, 438 00:23:23,778 --> 00:23:26,780 French technique, and global inspiration. 439 00:23:28,616 --> 00:23:30,200 This is exciting. 440 00:23:30,201 --> 00:23:32,285 Blades of onion. - Bueno. 441 00:23:32,286 --> 00:23:33,788 Wow. 442 00:23:37,291 --> 00:23:39,417 It almost has the texture of a steak. 443 00:23:39,418 --> 00:23:42,129 Mmm. This is heaven. 444 00:23:42,130 --> 00:23:44,756 Cooking like this has won Restaurante Arzak 445 00:23:44,757 --> 00:23:49,094 three Michelin stars for 35 years in a row. 446 00:23:49,095 --> 00:23:50,929 The most difficult is to maintain... 447 00:23:50,930 --> 00:23:52,430 - The reputation. - Si. 448 00:23:52,431 --> 00:23:54,307 - Maintain the reputation. - So this-- 449 00:23:54,308 --> 00:23:57,602 As you can see, Eva, this never stops. 450 00:23:57,603 --> 00:24:01,148 It feels like this is why San Sebastian's chefs 451 00:24:01,149 --> 00:24:03,108 keep on winning those stars. 452 00:24:03,109 --> 00:24:04,818 They cherish their traditions, 453 00:24:04,819 --> 00:24:08,613 but also have a desire to look outwards. 454 00:24:08,614 --> 00:24:10,031 - Cheers! Salud. - Salud. 455 00:24:10,032 --> 00:24:11,826 Muchas gracias. 456 00:24:24,255 --> 00:24:26,381 Wow, I wish you could smell the streets. 457 00:24:26,382 --> 00:24:28,718 It's-- It's this. Oh, my gosh. 458 00:24:30,094 --> 00:24:31,511 Wow. 459 00:24:31,512 --> 00:24:33,847 A grill always reminds me of my childhood. 460 00:24:33,848 --> 00:24:36,641 Reminds me of Texas, y'all. 461 00:24:39,562 --> 00:24:41,898 {\an8}Hola. - Hola. 462 00:24:54,535 --> 00:24:58,622 I really wish you guys could smell the entire town. 463 00:24:58,623 --> 00:25:01,041 Halfway between San Sebastian and Bilbao 464 00:25:01,042 --> 00:25:03,293 is the village of Getaria, 465 00:25:03,294 --> 00:25:06,379 where seafaring is in the blood. 466 00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:09,299 It was home to Juan Sebastián Elcano, 467 00:25:09,300 --> 00:25:13,678 the captain of the first ship to circumnavigate the world. 468 00:25:13,679 --> 00:25:17,141 And today, it's a paradise for lovers of grilled fish. 469 00:25:21,562 --> 00:25:23,230 I've been smelling the grill 470 00:25:23,231 --> 00:25:25,106 from the whole village. 471 00:25:25,107 --> 00:25:27,859 Yes. Just in time for lunch. 472 00:25:27,860 --> 00:25:31,071 El Txoko is the original commercial asador, 473 00:25:31,072 --> 00:25:35,033 or grill house, in a village that is now full of them. 474 00:25:35,034 --> 00:25:38,245 Opened by Maialen's grandfather 70 years ago, 475 00:25:38,246 --> 00:25:41,206 she now runs it with her husband, Enrique. 476 00:25:41,207 --> 00:25:42,958 - Where are you from? - From Mexico City. 477 00:25:42,959 --> 00:25:45,043 I knew there was something I liked about him. 478 00:25:45,044 --> 00:25:47,963 What is this? - Bueno. 479 00:25:47,964 --> 00:25:49,965 {\an8}Here we have a besugo. - Okay. 480 00:25:49,966 --> 00:25:52,884 {\an8}As the families, they usually enjoy this fish 481 00:25:52,885 --> 00:25:56,596 {\an8}in the special events like... - Baptisms, communions. 482 00:25:56,597 --> 00:25:58,098 {\an8}Okay. 483 00:25:58,099 --> 00:26:00,100 As you see here, you see that color? 484 00:26:00,101 --> 00:26:01,518 It's a silver color. - Yeah. 485 00:26:01,519 --> 00:26:02,936 It's amazing. 486 00:26:02,937 --> 00:26:04,771 That means the quality of the fish. 487 00:26:04,772 --> 00:26:06,690 This, you know, like the-- - Wow, that's very bright. 488 00:26:06,691 --> 00:26:09,026 - Very bright. - It looks like a seashell inside. 489 00:26:10,069 --> 00:26:11,945 Here, the freshest fish delivered 490 00:26:11,946 --> 00:26:13,863 from the harbor twice a day 491 00:26:13,864 --> 00:26:17,534 is cooked simply in a kitchen centered around a grill. 492 00:26:17,535 --> 00:26:19,911 So Enrique is giving me a lesson on grilling 493 00:26:19,912 --> 00:26:22,372 Getaria style. 494 00:26:22,373 --> 00:26:24,333 {\an8}That's so hot. Oh, my gosh. 495 00:26:25,918 --> 00:26:27,836 {\an8}Okay. 496 00:26:27,837 --> 00:26:31,089 Do you think the Basque people do grilling a specific way? 497 00:26:31,090 --> 00:26:34,592 Si. One of the DNA of the Basque people-- 498 00:26:34,593 --> 00:26:36,261 Uh-huh, the DNA of the Basque people. 499 00:26:36,262 --> 00:26:39,306 ...is everybody grills or everybody wants to try. 500 00:26:39,307 --> 00:26:41,641 We cook the fish with these type of tools. 501 00:26:41,642 --> 00:26:43,518 They are very particular from here. 502 00:26:43,519 --> 00:26:45,895 So we call besuguera. - Besuguera. 503 00:26:45,896 --> 00:26:48,732 They use this type of tools. 504 00:26:48,733 --> 00:26:51,109 And then this is a Basque traditional grill. 505 00:26:51,110 --> 00:26:54,529 Like, you can move the height. - Oh, higher and lower the heat. 506 00:26:54,530 --> 00:26:57,449 Eso es. So you can-- If you have a small fish 507 00:26:57,450 --> 00:26:59,367 you always go down. 508 00:26:59,368 --> 00:27:02,329 Big fish, you need to know which is the level. 509 00:27:02,330 --> 00:27:05,749 - Yeah. Yeah. - And I will add also... look. 510 00:27:05,750 --> 00:27:09,961 This type of . We call . 511 00:27:09,962 --> 00:27:11,713 - ... - Yes. 512 00:27:11,714 --> 00:27:15,967 This is the holy water of bass grilling... 513 00:27:15,968 --> 00:27:19,429 made from vinegar, local txakoli wine, 514 00:27:19,430 --> 00:27:21,139 brandy, and garlic 515 00:27:21,140 --> 00:27:24,226 that coats the fish every time it's turned. 516 00:27:25,311 --> 00:27:27,103 Oh, my God, I can smell it already. 517 00:27:27,104 --> 00:27:29,189 This is what I was smelling walking through the streets. 518 00:27:29,190 --> 00:27:31,191 This... - Si, si, si. 519 00:27:31,192 --> 00:27:33,943 In my case, it's my wife knowing that I'm coming... 520 00:27:33,944 --> 00:27:35,362 - Yeah. - ...two blocks ago. 521 00:27:35,363 --> 00:27:37,447 "My husband is coming." 522 00:27:38,991 --> 00:27:40,909 If you have a fish and you have a grill, 523 00:27:40,910 --> 00:27:43,370 it's a happy life. 524 00:27:43,371 --> 00:27:46,498 With fish this fresh, you don't need much. 525 00:27:46,499 --> 00:27:48,666 Just some flakes of garlic, 526 00:27:48,667 --> 00:27:50,543 that bass classic, 527 00:27:50,544 --> 00:27:53,047 the pil pil sauce, and some chives. 528 00:27:54,382 --> 00:27:56,925 It's the way Maialen's family have prepared their fish 529 00:27:56,926 --> 00:27:58,676 for generations. 530 00:28:06,185 --> 00:28:09,145 Oh, my gosh, I love how they pour it. 531 00:28:09,146 --> 00:28:12,732 There's no better day than txakoli with a fresh fish 532 00:28:12,733 --> 00:28:15,318 and this view. 533 00:28:15,319 --> 00:28:17,237 This is perfectly cooked. 534 00:28:17,238 --> 00:28:19,490 Oh, my gosh. - Amazing. 535 00:28:21,033 --> 00:28:23,451 Mmm. Oh, my God, it's so fresh. 536 00:28:23,452 --> 00:28:25,328 You can taste the garlic. You can-- 537 00:28:25,329 --> 00:28:29,082 You know what I love about fresh fish is the texture. 538 00:28:29,083 --> 00:28:31,876 Why is fish so important to this region? 539 00:28:31,877 --> 00:28:35,339 {\an8}How did it evolve to become these amazing dishes? 540 00:28:42,430 --> 00:28:46,600 Centuries ago, the Basques set sail to navigate the world. 541 00:28:47,852 --> 00:28:49,686 Famed for their adventurous spirit, 542 00:28:49,687 --> 00:28:52,147 these sailors led Spain's exploration 543 00:28:52,148 --> 00:28:56,067 of new lands and oceans. 544 00:28:56,068 --> 00:28:58,778 And while on these treacherous journeys, 545 00:28:58,779 --> 00:29:01,948 they started to grill fish on board. 546 00:29:01,949 --> 00:29:03,783 It became so popular 547 00:29:03,784 --> 00:29:06,203 that they brought the grills home to Getaria. 548 00:29:18,924 --> 00:29:20,092 {\an8}Yeah. 549 00:29:25,097 --> 00:29:26,473 {\an8}To share what they caught on the boat? 550 00:29:26,474 --> 00:29:29,017 - Yes. - Yeah. With their friends. 551 00:29:29,018 --> 00:29:30,935 In a typically Basque way, 552 00:29:30,936 --> 00:29:33,480 grilling became a local obsession. 553 00:29:33,481 --> 00:29:36,774 And once tourists started to arrive in the 20th century, 554 00:29:36,775 --> 00:29:39,277 the grills opened to visitors. 555 00:29:39,278 --> 00:29:42,281 And the first was here at El Txoko. 556 00:29:43,699 --> 00:29:46,493 Now, as we call this, Txoko Getaria Asador. 557 00:29:46,494 --> 00:29:47,869 - Asador. - Asador Main Street. 558 00:29:47,870 --> 00:29:49,746 - A grill. Yeah. - But in that moment, 559 00:29:49,747 --> 00:29:53,250 Restaurante, it was a word a little bit more sophisticated. 560 00:30:05,721 --> 00:30:07,347 Now everybody wants to have an asador. 561 00:30:07,348 --> 00:30:09,015 Everybody wants to go to an asador. 562 00:30:10,851 --> 00:30:12,769 Thank you guys so much. 563 00:30:12,770 --> 00:30:16,231 {\an8}This was such a special day for me to enjoy 564 00:30:16,232 --> 00:30:18,901 {\an8}not only this amazing fish and view, but your company. 565 00:30:19,944 --> 00:30:21,403 {\an8}Thank you for coming. 566 00:30:30,621 --> 00:30:35,918 I wanted to do a toast to the pagan god Mary. 567 00:30:37,169 --> 00:30:40,004 They say she lives in this mountain 568 00:30:40,005 --> 00:30:42,006 and she's very powerful. 569 00:30:42,007 --> 00:30:44,467 She actually controls the weather. 570 00:30:44,468 --> 00:30:47,804 And what the Basque people say is that when it's overcast 571 00:30:47,805 --> 00:30:49,180 like this and it's cloudy, 572 00:30:49,181 --> 00:30:50,974 it's going to be a good day 573 00:30:50,975 --> 00:30:53,518 because she's cooking in her cave. 574 00:30:53,519 --> 00:30:54,687 Salud. 575 00:30:58,274 --> 00:31:01,234 The Basque have been worshiping Mary here for millennia, 576 00:31:01,235 --> 00:31:03,319 but there's a more recent local resident 577 00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:06,573 who's also worshipped-- an extraordinary chef 578 00:31:06,574 --> 00:31:09,827 whose devotees come from around the world to pay homage. 579 00:31:11,996 --> 00:31:15,164 So my pintxo buddy Marti has managed to bag us a reservation 580 00:31:15,165 --> 00:31:18,127 that's one of the most difficult to get in the world. 581 00:31:19,253 --> 00:31:21,714 I smell the grill already. 582 00:31:23,090 --> 00:31:25,174 In the mountains outside Bilbao, 583 00:31:25,175 --> 00:31:28,803 Axpe is a small village of just 200 people. 584 00:31:28,804 --> 00:31:31,764 But amongst its farmhouses 585 00:31:31,765 --> 00:31:34,017 and barns is Etxebarri, 586 00:31:34,018 --> 00:31:35,435 a restaurant that has been voted 587 00:31:35,436 --> 00:31:37,730 one of the best in the world. 588 00:31:38,856 --> 00:31:40,940 This is stunning. - I mean, it's really 589 00:31:40,941 --> 00:31:43,359 unlike any restaurant in the whole world. 590 00:31:43,360 --> 00:31:46,904 Victor, he started it almost 35 years ago. 591 00:31:46,905 --> 00:31:49,240 This restaurant has been open 35 years? 592 00:31:49,241 --> 00:31:51,451 Yeah, yeah, but you know, when he started it, 593 00:31:51,452 --> 00:31:53,202 it was just another grill house. 594 00:31:53,203 --> 00:31:55,539 What he's done is really taken it to the next level. 595 00:31:59,376 --> 00:32:01,252 At first glance, this might seem 596 00:32:01,253 --> 00:32:03,504 like any other bass asador. 597 00:32:03,505 --> 00:32:05,256 But this famous chef, 598 00:32:05,257 --> 00:32:08,384 Victor Arguinzoniuz is an obsessive 599 00:32:08,385 --> 00:32:10,720 who has taken the coastal tradition, 600 00:32:10,721 --> 00:32:12,472 transported it to the mountains, 601 00:32:12,473 --> 00:32:14,974 and turned it on its head. 602 00:32:14,975 --> 00:32:17,602 He insists on wood from the nearby forest 603 00:32:17,603 --> 00:32:19,813 to make daily fresh charcoal. 604 00:32:21,106 --> 00:32:22,774 He uses ingredients foraged, 605 00:32:22,775 --> 00:32:26,653 farmed, and fished close by, 606 00:32:26,654 --> 00:32:29,530 and designs equipment that allows him to grill it 607 00:32:29,531 --> 00:32:31,241 all to perfection. 608 00:32:33,118 --> 00:32:34,243 You being from the South 609 00:32:34,244 --> 00:32:36,120 and me being from Texas, 610 00:32:36,121 --> 00:32:38,456 I'm a harsh critic of grills. 611 00:32:38,457 --> 00:32:41,042 Have you, in Texas, ever grilled egg yolk? 612 00:32:41,043 --> 00:32:42,418 - No. - Okay, well, then I think we'll 613 00:32:42,419 --> 00:32:43,961 have something to try here. 614 00:32:43,962 --> 00:32:46,464 We might have something to try. 615 00:32:46,465 --> 00:32:48,466 Dishes change throughout the year, 616 00:32:48,467 --> 00:32:51,678 and while it's rare to see Victor outside his kitchen, 617 00:32:51,679 --> 00:32:53,763 his solo trips to nearby forests 618 00:32:53,764 --> 00:32:57,225 in search of ingredients inform the menu. 619 00:32:57,226 --> 00:32:59,602 Oh, no. This is great. 620 00:32:59,603 --> 00:33:02,605 - What is this? - This is really good news. 621 00:33:02,606 --> 00:33:05,108 So this is the guisante de lágrima, the tea of pea. 622 00:33:05,109 --> 00:33:06,818 And they call this here the caviar from the-- 623 00:33:06,819 --> 00:33:08,986 - The caviar of the region? - Yeah. 624 00:33:08,987 --> 00:33:10,988 They're in season for a super short time. 625 00:33:10,989 --> 00:33:13,574 So I know people get really excited about fish and meat, 626 00:33:13,575 --> 00:33:16,786 but for me, this is, like, true-- truly a delicacy. 627 00:33:16,787 --> 00:33:19,414 This is like popping in your mouth, exploding with flavor. 628 00:33:19,415 --> 00:33:21,040 You can taste the smoke. 629 00:33:21,041 --> 00:33:22,834 But they really leave them to, like, shine 630 00:33:22,835 --> 00:33:24,752 and for you to enjoy them as they are 631 00:33:24,753 --> 00:33:26,337 in all of their glory. 632 00:33:26,338 --> 00:33:30,049 There is a bounce and a crunch. 633 00:33:30,050 --> 00:33:32,677 Each one explodes in your mouth just like caviar. 634 00:33:32,678 --> 00:33:34,137 I really don't say this often, 635 00:33:34,138 --> 00:33:35,596 but I really think I'm going to cry. 636 00:33:35,597 --> 00:33:37,974 - Oh. - Food makes me so happy. 637 00:33:37,975 --> 00:33:39,642 Yeah. 638 00:33:39,643 --> 00:33:42,353 Don't cry in the caviar. 639 00:33:42,354 --> 00:33:44,647 This mysterious one-man show grills things 640 00:33:44,648 --> 00:33:46,983 that should be impossible to grill, 641 00:33:46,984 --> 00:33:49,026 from actual caviar 642 00:33:49,027 --> 00:33:51,154 to bass traditions like egg yolks 643 00:33:51,155 --> 00:33:54,490 served with mushrooms direct from the forest. 644 00:33:54,491 --> 00:33:57,493 You grilled the egg yolk? - The egg yolk. Yeah. 645 00:33:57,494 --> 00:33:59,662 Slowly for a few minutes. So enjoy. 646 00:33:59,663 --> 00:34:01,914 - Thank you. - You ain't got that in Texas. 647 00:34:01,915 --> 00:34:05,377 - No. Oh, wow. - Wow. Gorgeous. 648 00:34:06,837 --> 00:34:08,546 Mmm. 649 00:34:08,547 --> 00:34:10,256 And I feel like if you went to any other restaurant, 650 00:34:10,257 --> 00:34:12,884 you know, at this level, there would be five more things 651 00:34:12,885 --> 00:34:14,218 on this plate. 652 00:34:14,219 --> 00:34:15,887 Again, two ingredients. 653 00:34:15,888 --> 00:34:18,306 Two ingredients that make magic. 654 00:34:18,307 --> 00:34:22,685 Oh, my gosh, I've never had that experience in my life. 655 00:34:22,686 --> 00:34:23,896 {\an8}I see. 656 00:34:24,938 --> 00:34:26,773 {\an8}I licked it, I licked it clean. 657 00:34:26,774 --> 00:34:30,610 I would have licked hers, but I thought it was inappropriate. 658 00:34:30,611 --> 00:34:32,737 Despite this world class food, 659 00:34:32,738 --> 00:34:36,407 Chef Victor is the culinary world's great enigma, 660 00:34:36,408 --> 00:34:39,118 shying away from glamour and awards, 661 00:34:39,119 --> 00:34:41,245 instead remaining in his happy place-- 662 00:34:41,246 --> 00:34:42,872 by his grill. 663 00:34:42,873 --> 00:34:44,916 But enigma or not, 664 00:34:44,917 --> 00:34:48,085 I just have to get a glimpse of the master at work. 665 00:34:48,086 --> 00:34:49,796 I can guarantee you that this is, like, 666 00:34:49,797 --> 00:34:53,424 probably the most no frills kitchen on this level... 667 00:34:53,425 --> 00:34:55,051 - Yeah. - ...anywhere. 668 00:34:55,052 --> 00:34:56,969 It's so simple. 669 00:34:56,970 --> 00:34:59,680 {\an8}Now, the plan was to let the great man work in silence, 670 00:34:59,681 --> 00:35:01,474 {\an8}but I just can't stop my curiosity 671 00:35:01,475 --> 00:35:03,060 {\an8}getting the better of me. 672 00:35:18,951 --> 00:35:21,536 It's not complicated, but it doesn't make it easy. 673 00:35:21,537 --> 00:35:23,080 Yeah. 674 00:36:18,302 --> 00:36:20,511 I love that Victor's, like, a man of few words. 675 00:36:20,512 --> 00:36:23,389 But he says so much through his food. 676 00:36:23,390 --> 00:36:25,433 So much. 677 00:36:25,434 --> 00:36:27,768 With food like this, it's no wonder 678 00:36:27,769 --> 00:36:31,522 some Basques believe they live amongst the gods. 679 00:36:31,523 --> 00:36:33,524 There's such confidence in a chef 680 00:36:33,525 --> 00:36:36,944 letting incredible ingredients shine. 681 00:36:36,945 --> 00:36:40,323 I think the common denominator is simplicity. 682 00:36:40,324 --> 00:36:43,826 Like, the food is insanely amazing, 683 00:36:43,827 --> 00:36:47,204 but it's one, two, maybe three ingredients. 684 00:36:47,205 --> 00:36:48,831 That is so simple. - Do you love it? 685 00:36:48,832 --> 00:36:51,250 I love it. 686 00:36:51,251 --> 00:36:52,960 I don't know what I'm going to do after this. 687 00:36:52,961 --> 00:36:54,670 I don't know if we can continue on with the show. 688 00:36:54,671 --> 00:36:57,299 I think we just throw in the towel, guys. 689 00:36:58,842 --> 00:37:00,384 We have found Spain. 690 00:37:10,604 --> 00:37:12,730 This region is always innovating 691 00:37:12,731 --> 00:37:15,566 while continuing to do things the Basque way. 692 00:37:18,862 --> 00:37:20,696 And now a next generation of chefs 693 00:37:20,697 --> 00:37:22,448 is taking on the challenge, 694 00:37:22,449 --> 00:37:24,660 led by Eneko Atxa. 695 00:37:26,662 --> 00:37:29,247 {\an8}Hola. Kaixo. 696 00:37:36,546 --> 00:37:38,214 - Oh. - I learned this, too. 697 00:37:38,215 --> 00:37:40,132 - You speaking Basque perfectly. - I'm speaking Basque. 698 00:37:40,133 --> 00:37:42,343 I am fluent. - Nice. 699 00:37:42,344 --> 00:37:44,220 Eneko's restaurant Azurmendi, 700 00:37:44,221 --> 00:37:47,264 near the Basque Country's largest city, Bilbao, 701 00:37:47,265 --> 00:37:50,184 is at the forefront of the latest Basque wave 702 00:37:50,185 --> 00:37:55,064 of innovation, winning him a coveted three Michelin stars. 703 00:37:55,065 --> 00:37:58,443 - Kaixo! - Kaixo! 704 00:37:59,444 --> 00:38:02,530 At Azurmendi, the diner's culinary journey starts 705 00:38:02,531 --> 00:38:04,907 by eating the first of their 20 courses 706 00:38:04,908 --> 00:38:06,283 right in the kitchen. 707 00:38:06,284 --> 00:38:09,745 We start with one real sea aroma. 708 00:38:09,746 --> 00:38:12,039 And if you smell, 709 00:38:12,040 --> 00:38:14,333 you can feel that you are very close-- 710 00:38:14,334 --> 00:38:16,502 - In the ocean. - ...to sea here. Yes. 711 00:38:16,503 --> 00:38:19,046 - Oh, yeah, that is-- - Yes, it's like a bruma. 712 00:38:19,047 --> 00:38:21,507 We offer a different snacks and-- 713 00:38:21,508 --> 00:38:23,467 I love that you call this "snacks". 714 00:38:23,468 --> 00:38:25,344 It's just snacks. 715 00:38:25,345 --> 00:38:29,390 They're pretty complicated elevated snacks. 716 00:38:29,391 --> 00:38:30,891 Whatever you want to call them, 717 00:38:30,892 --> 00:38:32,518 they're mind blowing takes 718 00:38:32,519 --> 00:38:34,437 on traditional Basque dishes 719 00:38:34,438 --> 00:38:37,690 that make you feel like Charlie in the chocolate factory. 720 00:38:37,691 --> 00:38:40,192 But instead of everlasting gobstoppers, 721 00:38:40,193 --> 00:38:43,529 there's edible cocktails using local txokoli wine. 722 00:38:43,530 --> 00:38:45,281 Boom. 723 00:38:45,282 --> 00:38:47,867 And a fritter of cod, known as a buñuelo, 724 00:38:47,868 --> 00:38:51,078 coated in a . 725 00:38:51,079 --> 00:38:52,455 Wow. - Like it? 726 00:38:52,456 --> 00:38:54,623 Mm-hmm. How do you prepare the fish? 727 00:38:54,624 --> 00:38:57,918 We prepare very slowly, very slowly, like pil pil. 728 00:38:57,919 --> 00:39:00,254 You know. - I've learned this 729 00:39:00,255 --> 00:39:02,214 in this journey. - Yes. 730 00:39:02,215 --> 00:39:05,885 You guys don't use a utensil. 731 00:39:05,886 --> 00:39:08,387 And a unique take on a Basque favorite-- 732 00:39:08,388 --> 00:39:12,183 eggs and truffles that you assemble yourself. 733 00:39:12,184 --> 00:39:15,019 Oh, God. This is like surgery. - You're a very good cook. 734 00:39:15,020 --> 00:39:17,313 Fantastic. - Oh, my gosh. 735 00:39:17,314 --> 00:39:19,066 I could get a job here. 736 00:39:20,150 --> 00:39:22,151 The egg yolk is raw 737 00:39:22,152 --> 00:39:25,446 and we will cook from inside to outside. 738 00:39:25,447 --> 00:39:27,490 Cooking it from the inside out. 739 00:39:27,491 --> 00:39:29,533 Carefully, carefully, carefully. 740 00:39:29,534 --> 00:39:32,411 We have a new chef in Azurmendi. - Yay! 741 00:39:32,412 --> 00:39:37,083 Bravo! In one bite, it's this egg yolk 742 00:39:37,084 --> 00:39:39,168 with truffle that you will eat 743 00:39:39,169 --> 00:39:40,586 never. - In my life. Really? 744 00:39:40,587 --> 00:39:42,756 - I promise you. - I believe you. 745 00:39:45,383 --> 00:39:47,468 Wow. 746 00:39:47,469 --> 00:39:50,513 This is all the difference in the world. 747 00:39:50,514 --> 00:39:52,973 It's truffle juice. Hot truffle juice. 748 00:39:52,974 --> 00:39:55,476 Oh, that is delicious. 749 00:39:55,477 --> 00:39:58,729 Guests do also get to eat these inventive takes 750 00:39:58,730 --> 00:40:00,648 on traditions in the dining room, 751 00:40:00,649 --> 00:40:03,734 where Eneko's team serves up complex dishes 752 00:40:03,735 --> 00:40:07,363 like raw prawns coated in chive oil 753 00:40:07,364 --> 00:40:09,698 and served with a shrimp mayonnaise, 754 00:40:09,699 --> 00:40:13,160 micro parsley, flowers from the restaurant's garden, 755 00:40:13,161 --> 00:40:15,788 and stunning blue shrimp caviar. 756 00:40:15,789 --> 00:40:17,790 This is so beautiful. I don't even want to eat it, 757 00:40:17,791 --> 00:40:19,376 it's so beautiful. 758 00:40:22,212 --> 00:40:24,922 Oh, my gosh, it's so silky. - Yes. 759 00:40:24,923 --> 00:40:27,134 And the shrimp is so soft. 760 00:40:28,802 --> 00:40:30,386 {\an8}Oh, yes. 761 00:40:30,387 --> 00:40:32,138 It's like somebody giving a nice hug to my tongue. 762 00:40:32,139 --> 00:40:34,056 - Yes. - I mean, look at this. 763 00:40:34,057 --> 00:40:36,267 You're such an innovator. And you've done something different. 764 00:40:36,268 --> 00:40:39,103 But also holding on to tradition. 765 00:40:39,104 --> 00:40:41,355 Everything is coming from my memory, 766 00:40:41,356 --> 00:40:46,110 from the soul of my family, from my grandma, from my mom. 767 00:40:46,111 --> 00:40:49,864 And when you have this treasure in your hands, 768 00:40:49,865 --> 00:40:53,242 you feel very comfortable to innovate. 769 00:40:53,243 --> 00:40:55,327 I do feel like so much innovation 770 00:40:55,328 --> 00:40:57,413 comes out of Basque cuisine. 771 00:40:57,414 --> 00:40:58,914 Why do you think that is? 772 00:40:58,915 --> 00:41:00,416 Everybody say that. 773 00:41:00,417 --> 00:41:02,918 The Basque between is eating for lunch, 774 00:41:02,919 --> 00:41:05,421 is thinking in dinner all the time. 775 00:41:05,422 --> 00:41:06,922 All the time. 776 00:41:06,923 --> 00:41:08,716 Everybody in the Basque Country cooks. 777 00:41:08,717 --> 00:41:13,137 Everybody. Like something natural or intuitive. 778 00:41:13,138 --> 00:41:18,100 Creating a new recipes or new concepts or new views 779 00:41:18,101 --> 00:41:19,768 or new ways to work. 780 00:41:19,769 --> 00:41:21,270 They're just always looking to push 781 00:41:21,271 --> 00:41:23,689 the boundaries of cuisine. 782 00:41:23,690 --> 00:41:26,650 And this is something that we can use 783 00:41:26,651 --> 00:41:30,571 to build the future new Basque gastronomy. 784 00:41:30,572 --> 00:41:32,281 The new new Basque gastronomy. 785 00:41:32,282 --> 00:41:34,742 New new Basque gastronomy. 786 00:41:37,454 --> 00:41:40,080 {\an8}-I think this is what makes the Basque Country special. 787 00:41:40,081 --> 00:41:42,750 {\an8}The people are secure in being part of Spain, 788 00:41:42,751 --> 00:41:46,921 {\an8}yet proud of their unique history and traditions. 789 00:41:46,922 --> 00:41:48,547 {\an8}They embrace innovation, 790 00:41:48,548 --> 00:41:51,675 {\an8}confident that it won't destroy their identity. 791 00:41:51,676 --> 00:41:52,968 {\an8}So they're always looking outwards, 792 00:41:52,969 --> 00:41:55,095 {\an8}welcoming diverse influences 793 00:41:55,096 --> 00:41:56,805 {\an8}and building on their traditions 794 00:41:56,806 --> 00:41:59,099 {\an8}to create new ideas. 795 00:41:59,100 --> 00:42:02,020 {\an8}And of course, doing it all the Basque way. 796 00:42:04,397 --> 00:42:05,607 {\an8}Cheers. Salud. 62746

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