All language subtitles for Planlæg 1 2026-01-09 06-56-49-561 del 2

Does that one look okay?

I'd say it looks all right.

There you go.

Yeah, same thing getting scratched up
bearings. Lots of dirt went through that

already. So despite it not being tied
up, it's a good thing we... Yeah, I

it's a good thing we went into it here
deeper.

It's pretty snug.

It does turn a bit hard.

This one he had put back on backwards.

Maybe that's why it's snug.

But it was just snug back down. It
wasn't tight.

I could tell there were two of them that
were loose that he must have had out.

How does the pins feel? Are they free?

Yeah. Okay, feels fine.

Well, we want to check that piston real
close, but I don't think that's going to

most likely hurt it any.

As far as running it again? Yeah, as far
as reusing it again.

Okay, that makes it feel better.

I think it was just that cap turned
around backwards that was making it a

bit tight.

We're going to have to measure it and
see how worn it is.

Yeah, you got it.

Fan them out.

Pull the cam out.

Look all those lobes over and make sure
they look good.

I'd say so.

Nothing I'd say is concerning.

Okay, that's good.

We've got these flat screws here.

Originally, when those were put in, they
take a punch or a little chisel there,

a punch, and peen just a little bit into
the slot of the screw that came from

coming loose, but it doesn't look like
that got done, so hopefully they come

loose easy.

Yeah.

You can tell this thing's been apart.

a few times with as rounded as the heads
are on a lot of the bolts

is there one hidden oh yeah one hidden
under the gas yep

one more now i think we're down

to the silicon holding it on okay now

it's going to be the interesting part
the early ones of these used shims under

the main cap the later ones did not
always like working on the later ones

do not because they're easier to

okay

you guys shims under there not that i
can tell okay and this is the later one

that does not use shims oil sure look
rough for brand new

Okay, I'd kind of forgotten about this,
but those are pinned bearings.

Oh, yeah. Rather than having the little
tab on the side, they actually have a

pin underneath them.

Yeah, the bearing itself has a tit on
the backside

to hold it in place.

20?

30?

Mine says 20.

Ooh, that's not good.

Huh. So I wonder what it really is.

So we've got the front main bearing came
out, says it's a 30, and the second

main bearing says it's a 20.

Vice versa, I think.

No, 20 on the front. That was here.

And 30 here.

So that tells me they maybe did some
funny things to try to save the

crankshaft on this.

Hopefully that's what it's really ground
to. And that would be okay if one is 20

and one is 30. It's a little unusual.

Normally we try to make all of them the
same to eliminate confusion.

But we're going to have to check that
real close.

And buying two bearings. Yeah, and have
to buy two bearing sets to make that

happen. So let's see what this one is.
This is a thrust bearing here.

It was riding real hard like that dowel
does not fit into the cap maybe quite

like it should.

Were the others that way? Maybe a little
bit. Not like this one is.

That one is 30.

20, 30, 30.

So let's see what's... Here.

Again, that one is rubbing pretty hard
next to that dowel, and it says

30. Let's lift the crank up out of there
and get the mic and measure it and see

if that really is how they ground it.

That's really weird if that's what they
did on this.

I don't quite understand that.

out check them uh i'll go look up some
specs here what that should be

this says

30 30 they don't have some major

30 30.

my eyes weren't lying to me were they
those are all 30.

that's a 20.

so there's one One half is an odd
bearing?

There's a 20 lower in the front bearing.

What's the part number on those
bearings?

2152PP. They're Federal Mogul.

Oh, they're Federal Mogul bearings?

Yeah. Well, let me go get a Federal
Mogul book. I think I have one over

235.

1940 to 63, line 26.

So that's saying 1956 to 62 engines that
a

shim set required, but those didn't have
any shims in. And then it gives me

standard shaft diameter dimensions.

And that's also one of the things that's
interesting about this engine is each

main bearing gets larger from front to
back.

So they're a pain to grind to crank
because every single journal you grind,

you're starting over again, setting your
gauge up, setting your size up. Have

you ever mixed a 20 and 30 shell?

Not on the same journal.

The only time I've heard of that is when
somebody was trying to cobble something

together to take to the auction.

Okay, so that is about 654 and some
change, 2

.654. So if that's 30 under, it would be
684, which

there we are. So that one is definitely
30 under. Let's try the next one. With a

20 and a 30 bearing.

Is that the one that had the... Yes.
Huh.

So then this one measures 2 .6.

Yeah, 2 .685 and some change. Add 30 to
that. So 2 .715. So that journal is

definitely 30. 2 .716.

So add 30 to that. 2 .746.

And there we are. So that one's 30.

2 .748.

Add 30 to that. 78.

Yeah, 2 .777 and a half.

So the crank is definitely ground 30 on
the mains.

All the way through, as it is.

Did we check rod bearings? We didn't
check rod bearings. I think we decided

were 30.

Yeah, so that crank has ground 30 rods,
30 mains, all the way through.

But we have a 20 lower bearing on the
front main.

So why?

Good question.

Somebody messed up?

How do you mess that up?

You want to measure just the thickness
of the bearings?

We could.

Just with the calipers here.

About 108.

So this should be five less.

103.

Almost on the money.

Yeah.

I guess I don't know if I'm holding that
in front of the camera or not.

Well, there's a word I want to say for
what that is, but I try to keep it

friendly. It has a rope seal in it.

At least at one point in time, you could
get the neoprene seals for this.

So we'll attempt to get that when we go
back together.

So now, that looks like factory finish
in that. It's not been... No.

Nothing been...

Funny about line bore or anything.

But what's weird is the book says this
is a block that should have a shim set

it, but it doesn't.

And obviously it didn't need it or it
would have had that crank locked up.

Although over the years doing these
things, I've always been puzzled by

ones were supposed to have shims and
which ones did not have shims.

So what we want to do with this when we
get ready to go back together is we need

to torque those caps on and measure each
one of those bores and figure out for

sure if they're in spec.

It'd be nice to know the logic behind
whoever did that, what they were trying

accomplish. Well, what's the date on
those bearings?

04 of 18 on both.

Okay, so that's pre -COVID.

Unless they were manufactured and didn't
get packaged until... Isn't it kind of

weird that a 20 and a 30 would have the
exact same date, though?

Do they really?

04 -18, 04 -18? Well, a month.

That's a month's span.

Makes you wonder if they were packaged
wrong. Yeah, that's what I'm

thinking, is they were packaged wrong.

And nobody ever checked.

Right.

Yeah. Whoever assembled this motor just
took them out of the package and put

them in and assumed everything was okay.

Everybody's human.

Mistakes get made.

I mean, the rest of it looks pretty
decent.

I'm not seeing a lot wrong with this
motor.

Let's get it cleaned up. Probably torque
your caps on after it's clean.

Measure it. See what we've got.

Measure the cylinders, see if they're
good enough that we can just run a hone

through them and get a good crosshatch
going in them again.

Check the deck on the block.

I'll have to check that crank a little
closer, see if I can just polish it. I

hope so.

The head oiled from over there, though,
right?

Yeah. I was just trying to picture which
way the oil all moved through.

Wouldn't it have oil pressure issue
being that loose?

Yeah, I would have thought it would
have.

But if this only ran 10 minutes, he
probably didn't run it long enough.

got lucky that that valve tied up before
the crank. Yeah, before he ruined the

crank and the block both.

I started out, I was like, oh, this will
be interesting to see what's wrong with

it. And then you figure out it's not
actually locked up, and I'm like, well,

this just got boring.

But then it got interesting again. Look
at all the junk under there. They didn't

have that off when they cleaned the
motor the last time. Yeah. Look at that.

Yeah. That's bad.

Yeah, that's why the crankshaft.

I think baffles are probably one of the
main things that people skimp on when

they're cleaning.

They take the time to take them off.

Okay, is that ready for the oven?

I think it's ready for the oven.

I think we clean it up and, you know,
check a lot of things, and hopefully the

last guy's machine work is good to where
we don't have to do very much machine

work.

We'll order up a kit with bearings and
rings, probably fix that one valve

I was noticing on the valves they used
the old -style, non -plated stem exhaust

valves in this. Although they're brand
new and look fine, let's upgrade it and

put the chrome -plated stem valves in,
like the newer small blocks.

use their same valve as a small block
kind of interesting yeah let's wrap this

up clean up our mess and i'm more than
ready for bed you keep me up too late

this was your idea to do it at late at
night i didn't want i'd like to work

during norming normal work hours but