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Antarctica is the coldest
continent on earth.
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For humans, a hostile terrain.
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During the summer, researchers
come here from around the world
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00:00:36,210 --> 00:00:41,358
to unlock the secrets of the eternal
ice and its inhabitants.
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00:00:51,190 --> 00:00:55,210
Provision supply is a
masterpiece of logistics.
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00:00:56,230 --> 00:01:01,920
Even families with children
live here at the end of the world.
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The really extreme time
begins with the Antarctic winter.
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Even the penguins
have already left.
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00:01:25,774 --> 00:01:30,165
Yet more than 100 people hold
down the fort in the Antarctic stations.
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It will now be dark for months.
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The Fildes Peninsula on King
George Island is free of ice in summer.
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00:01:58,579 --> 00:02:02,259
It is the perfect place for the
Antarctic stations of four countries.
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00:02:02,723 --> 00:02:06,336
One of them is the Russian
station Bellingshausen.
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00:02:07,582 --> 00:02:13,719
During the Antarctic summer, a group of German
researchers from Jena is also stationed here.
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00:02:16,331 --> 00:02:19,964
In the early morning, expedition leader
Dr. Hans-Ulrich Peter
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and five young scientists prepare for
a day in the wilderness.
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In the Antarctic summer, from December to
February, the sun shines to up to 20 hours a day.
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Temperatures hover
around freezing.
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The researchers can largely move about
safely in the ice-free areas of the island.
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00:03:09,140 --> 00:03:13,262
To gather as much data as
possible, the group splits up.
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Some head for the penguin
reserve, others for the hills.
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00:03:17,645 --> 00:03:22,422
And seabirds, known
as south polar skewers.
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00:03:28,479 --> 00:03:33,755
Marie-Charlotte Röhmler and Christian
Pfeiffer are testing to find out at which
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point the use of drones will
become stressful for the penguins.
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To do this,
Marie-Charlotte must briefly
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take eggs away from
brooding Gen 2 penguins.
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They will be protected from the cold
and the skewers during the experiment.
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The penguins are
given plastic eggs with
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hidden microphones in
place of their own eggs.
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As soon as the penguin sits on the
prepared egg, Marie-Charlotte can hear its
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heartbeat over the microphone.
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Christian prepares the first
drone, a fixed-wing aircraft.
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It depends a lot on it.
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00:05:08,280 --> 00:05:12,499
Christian tests altitudes
of 100 to 10 metres.
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00:05:12,629 --> 00:05:16,999
The lower he flies, the faster
the penguins' hearts beat.
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Starting at 40 metres,
they are noticeably stressed.
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The drone causes
excitement in the air, too.
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Skewers perceive them
as invasive fellow birds.
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For Christian, this
means a quick landing.
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00:06:14,112 --> 00:06:18,642
Christian now tests a
second drone, an octocopter.
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The researchers are not allowed to
enter the protected area without a permit.
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They must also keep a certain
distance from the penguins.
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Only with an additional
permit for experiments
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is Marie allowed to
get really close to them.
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For instance, to exchange
the plastic eggs for real ones.
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00:07:13,647 --> 00:07:18,535
Antarctica is comprised not only of the
white continent and the southern hemisphere,
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but everything south
of the 60th parallel.
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Off the Antarctic coast lies
King George Island, which is
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nearly covered with glaciers,
but has a few ice-free coasts.
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For this reason, nine nations
have stations located here.
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Brazil, Peru, Poland, Argentina with a
German summer camp, South Korea,
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and on the Fildes Peninsula,
China, Uruguay, Chile,
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and Russia host to the
German researchers from Jena.
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The Chilean Air Force is stationed at the
Presidente Eduardo Frei Montalva base.
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Commander Sergio Copillos
summons his troops at dawn.
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He's only been in Antarctica
a few weeks, and has
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recently been promoted
to the rank of commander.
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00:08:52,938 --> 00:08:56,388
The troops' morale hit a low point
under the previous commander.
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00:08:56,852 --> 00:09:00,202
Now, it's time to get the
station back into shape.
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00:09:04,365 --> 00:09:07,675
Sergio Copillos builds
on military polish.
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00:09:38,215 --> 00:09:42,575
Fifty-four men and two
women report to Sergio Copillos.
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They swear an oath of allegiance to
the fatherland, which they have committed
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their lives to serving, even
on the seventh continent.
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A decommissioned oil
tank and 152 tons of scrap
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metal from previous years
are rusting on the beach.
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00:10:22,071 --> 00:10:24,651
All of it is going to be
shipped to Chile today.
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00:10:24,866 --> 00:10:28,435
A task like this cannot
be managed alone.
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Chen Bo, the commander
of the Chinese station,
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assists in moving the
12-ton tank with his crane.
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00:11:26,055 --> 00:11:32,545
Today, luck is not with Commander
Sergio Cubillos, a snowstorm is forming.
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Moving objects weighing tons is one of the
most dangerous challenges in the Antarctic.
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Machines can easily tip over on
the sandy ground, crushing limbs.
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00:11:46,475 --> 00:11:50,105
And evacuation is
impossible during this weather.
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The Chileans and the
Chinese keep at it nonetheless.
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00:12:01,823 --> 00:12:07,035
In the eternal ice, it goes without
saying that nations help one another.
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00:12:28,323 --> 00:12:33,110
But then ice floats into the
bay, and the oil tank gets stuck
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in one of the summer's
worst snowstorms.
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The wind reaches 100
kilometers per hour.
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00:12:42,802 --> 00:12:47,435
The wind-chill temperature
is 25 degrees below zero.
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00:13:02,085 --> 00:13:06,095
For the German researchers,
this means house arrest.
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The researchers use their downtime to
get their equipment ready for its next use.
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Nothing else can be done.
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The data they've collected will only be
evaluated in Jena, 13,000 kilometers away.
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During storms, the researchers are cut
off irrevocably from the rest of the world.
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Palladi is the priest in the world's
most southerly Russian Orthodox Church.
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00:15:20,685 --> 00:15:24,196
He provides pastoral
support when extreme isolation
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renders the Antarctic
a psychological prison.
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He attempts to give
people strength through
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familiar rituals from
their distant homelands.
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For instance, with a
great blessing of the waters
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in remembrance
of the baptism of Jesus.
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Palladi baptizes everything and
everyone in the Russian station.
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In this way, even pots, the stove,
the machines and the buildings benefit
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00:16:21,088 --> 00:16:25,697
from the renewed energy needed
for everyday life in the Antarctic.
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00:17:20,483 --> 00:17:26,586
Antarctica is the only continent
that does not belong to anyone.
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00:17:26,772 --> 00:17:30,186
With the Antarctic Treaty
System, more than 50 nations
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agreed to the
peaceful use of the region.
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00:17:33,890 --> 00:17:37,220
But still, many nations
have a permanent presence.
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00:17:37,503 --> 00:17:45,503
Not least, to secure territorial claims
should the Antarctic pie someday be cut up.
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00:17:48,386 --> 00:17:53,716
In addition to the research stations on King
George Island, there is a civilian settlement,
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Villa Las Estrellas, the Star's Town.
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The families of Chilean
officers live here.
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This is how four-year-old Sebastian
Castro and his 11-year-old sister, Sofia,
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came to be here.
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00:18:17,181 --> 00:18:21,261
Sofia's appendix was even
removed as a precaution.
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00:18:41,343 --> 00:18:44,595
Sara Castro also had
her appendix removed.
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00:18:44,726 --> 00:18:48,826
And she had to prove her mental
fitness in psychological tests.
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00:18:49,880 --> 00:18:53,560
But to her, the move to the
Antarctic island was worth it.
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00:19:19,086 --> 00:19:21,806
The only airport is
one kilometer away.
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00:19:22,266 --> 00:19:26,206
Carlos Castro, the head of
the family, works here as a pilot.
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00:19:28,940 --> 00:19:31,296
He has become familiar with
King George Island
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through countless supply flights
over the course of 15 years.
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This is the first time he has
been stationed here permanently.
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00:20:25,203 --> 00:20:29,416
For all the nations on King
George Island, the Chilean airport
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is the umbilical cord
to the outside world.
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00:20:33,750 --> 00:20:36,547
Fresh vegetables
only come by air freight.
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00:20:36,637 --> 00:20:39,987
And sick people can
only be evacuated by air.
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00:20:46,880 --> 00:20:49,370
Carlos pilots a twin otter.
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00:20:49,424 --> 00:20:53,670
It is considered indestructible
and particularly reliable.
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00:21:30,006 --> 00:21:32,971
Today, Carlos Castro has
spare parts on board
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that are desperately needed
on the Antarctic mainland.
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00:21:37,346 --> 00:21:41,416
He is heading 140 kilometers
towards the South Pole.
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00:22:33,892 --> 00:22:36,312
Temperatures hovering around freezing.
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00:22:36,337 --> 00:22:38,564
and an acute lack of movement.
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00:22:38,814 --> 00:22:41,853
represent a big
adjustment for the Castro family.
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00:22:42,187 --> 00:22:46,696
They have to be regularly
checked out in the station's clinic.
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00:22:51,526 --> 00:22:54,576
Doctor Denise Echeverria
is guiding the family
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through a study on
vitamin D deficiency.
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00:23:30,766 --> 00:23:36,316
She must be versatile, and serves as
an emergency physician, family doctor,
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dentist, and pediatrician.
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00:24:11,347 --> 00:24:14,257
It's Sofia's turn for
a blood test today.
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00:24:14,433 --> 00:24:18,063
The checkup is meant to
prevent iron or vitamin deficiencies.
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00:24:51,307 --> 00:24:57,358
Less than five hours after taking off,
Carlos Castro is back on King George Island.
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00:24:58,287 --> 00:25:00,412
Before he was
stationed in the Antarctic,
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Carlos' assignments
often lasted several weeks.
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00:25:04,636 --> 00:25:07,216
Eating lunch at home
was a distant dream.
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00:25:07,596 --> 00:25:10,616
The family almost
fell apart because of it.
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00:25:40,599 --> 00:25:47,226
Antarctica is one of the last
largely intact ecosystems on Earth.
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00:25:47,340 --> 00:25:51,780
Extreme cold has preserved
the glacial ice for millions of years.
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00:25:52,841 --> 00:25:58,630
Yet advancing climate change is already affecting
the population of native animal species,
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00:25:58,907 --> 00:26:03,756
as constant monitoring
by polar researchers has shown.
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00:26:09,187 --> 00:26:13,903
Rules of behavior apply with
respect to untouched nature.
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00:26:14,033 --> 00:26:18,376
And exhibition leader Hans-Ulrich
Peter follows them precisely.
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00:26:39,560 --> 00:26:43,590
Nothing can prepare you
for the attacks by the skuas.
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00:26:45,099 --> 00:26:48,652
These piratical seabirds
use all possible means
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00:26:48,677 --> 00:26:52,664
to drive the researchers
from their nests.
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00:26:59,243 --> 00:27:03,513
Masters student Daniel
Provasnik practices catching them.
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00:27:17,826 --> 00:27:23,877
To accurately determine the skua population,
the birds are ringed and measured.
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00:27:24,426 --> 00:27:28,296
The researchers also draw
blood to determine their sex.
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00:27:29,516 --> 00:27:32,735
The best time for this is
when the skuas have chicks.
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00:27:32,793 --> 00:27:36,033
Their flying attacks are
especially aggressive then,
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00:27:36,293 --> 00:27:40,223
which makes
catching them possible.
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00:27:43,993 --> 00:27:46,789
Daniel has to wait for
just the right moment.
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00:27:46,906 --> 00:27:50,216
Many researchers have
already been knocked out.
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00:28:26,980 --> 00:28:29,399
The wound can
easily become infected.
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00:28:29,501 --> 00:28:31,752
Skuas are hunters
and scavengers.
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00:28:31,843 --> 00:28:34,762
Their beaks, full of bacteria.
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00:28:58,760 --> 00:29:01,010
Now Daniel is by himself.
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00:29:06,047 --> 00:29:08,436
High in the hills
is one more nest.
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00:29:08,526 --> 00:29:11,956
Daniel has to measure the
chicks to document their growth.
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00:29:13,300 --> 00:29:15,810
They just hatched ten days ago.
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00:30:03,940 --> 00:30:07,510
An Antarctic evening
buffet for the whales.
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00:30:08,686 --> 00:30:11,976
Now, in the summer,
there's a lot of krill.
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00:30:21,143 --> 00:30:26,353
The whales follow it into the
ice-free bays, close to the stations.
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00:30:31,343 --> 00:30:34,193
Yet the summer is
coming to an end.
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During its last mild days, a strange event
is taking place on King George Island.
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The White Continent Marathon.
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00:30:49,243 --> 00:30:54,693
Newly landed organizer Steve Hibbs from
Minnesota is marking the running course.
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00:31:02,373 --> 00:31:07,691
For Americans Lisa Davis and Dave
Jones, the marathon on the White Continent
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represents the fulfillment
of a very special dream.
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00:31:14,203 --> 00:31:17,263
This was given to me by my
husband for a birthday present.
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00:31:17,370 --> 00:31:21,476
Because I completed 50 states, a
marathon in every state, plus DC,
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00:31:21,553 --> 00:31:22,629
and 100 marathons.
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00:31:22,654 --> 00:31:24,813
And I wanted to do one
more goal, which was to
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complete a marathon on
every continent in seven days.
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00:31:28,180 --> 00:31:31,371
And this is it. This is the culminating
point. This is what we work for.
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00:31:31,500 --> 00:31:33,777
Finally here.
It's gonna happen.
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00:31:33,993 --> 00:31:35,260
This is the start
and finish area.
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00:31:35,285 --> 00:31:39,146
Well, actually, we have some banners
that will eventually get posted right,
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00:31:39,313 --> 00:31:40,405
tied up over there.
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00:31:40,465 --> 00:31:43,326
But we're gonna go out this
way, back to the landing strip.
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00:31:43,351 --> 00:31:45,221
I was setting up the
cones that would go around.
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00:31:45,246 --> 00:31:47,047
There are four cones
that would go around.
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00:31:47,083 --> 00:31:49,499
Everybody turn around
and look at the Chinese base.
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00:31:49,524 --> 00:31:51,144
Say, hi, Chinese base!
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00:31:52,909 --> 00:31:54,785
We're gonna keep going
straight towards the Chinese base.
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00:31:54,810 --> 00:31:57,210
You'll see orange cones
on your left-hand side.
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00:31:57,346 --> 00:31:59,002
That has never been done before.
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00:31:59,126 --> 00:32:03,452
So this is the first time in all of the
humans that have ever lived that
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00:32:03,477 --> 00:32:06,086
seven public marathons, seven
continents, seven days.
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00:32:07,429 --> 00:32:09,345
We're going to be able to do it.
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00:32:09,382 --> 00:32:12,700
When this watch says
6-17, the seven days are up.
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00:32:12,725 --> 00:32:14,241
168 hours is over.
194
00:32:14,607 --> 00:32:16,718
So it says 23.46 right now.
195
00:32:16,743 --> 00:32:19,322
So we've got about
six and a half hours to
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00:32:19,682 --> 00:32:22,658
get in under seven
days and be the first ever.
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00:32:22,969 --> 00:32:24,519
Go!
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00:32:32,055 --> 00:32:35,975
The runners have already
completed six out of seven marathons.
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00:32:36,088 --> 00:32:39,118
Day one in Australia
at 40 degrees Celsius.
200
00:32:39,729 --> 00:32:43,179
Day two in Singapore
at 100% humidity.
201
00:32:44,007 --> 00:32:49,512
Runs through the chaotic traffic of
Cairo, in Russia, the USA, and Chile.
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00:32:50,749 --> 00:32:54,210
All that's missing now are
the six rounds in Antarctica.
203
00:32:54,382 --> 00:32:59,367
It's going. It's tough. But it's
fun. I can admit it. It's kind of fun.
204
00:32:59,840 --> 00:33:01,565
It's very challenging.
205
00:33:01,637 --> 00:33:04,439
Lots of rocks.
I've twisted my ankle twice.
206
00:33:04,682 --> 00:33:06,232
But that's okay.
207
00:33:06,495 --> 00:33:08,045
I'm learning as I go.
208
00:33:10,795 --> 00:33:14,765
Some runners dream of setting
Guinness Book World Records.
209
00:33:15,549 --> 00:33:18,805
Yet gravel and snow
make running difficult.
210
00:33:18,882 --> 00:33:22,092
And the cold air
burns the lungs.
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00:33:22,915 --> 00:33:24,485
Nice job!
212
00:33:24,735 --> 00:33:26,251
Looking good!
213
00:33:26,408 --> 00:33:27,797
Looking good!
214
00:33:27,902 --> 00:33:29,452
Good job!
215
00:33:30,042 --> 00:33:31,672
Looking good!
216
00:33:36,062 --> 00:33:40,506
The steep hills in the middle of the
course are the runner's nightmare.
217
00:33:40,709 --> 00:33:43,859
Insiders call
them the hate hills.
218
00:33:49,865 --> 00:33:51,263
It's all tough.
219
00:33:51,405 --> 00:33:52,955
I'm a big boy.
220
00:33:54,205 --> 00:33:57,600
And nothing's easy about this.
221
00:33:57,776 --> 00:34:00,896
It's all just
self-transcendent.
222
00:34:01,332 --> 00:34:03,202
You just got to
keep fighting it.
223
00:34:03,406 --> 00:34:05,692
Every time you want
to stop, you just don't.
224
00:34:05,788 --> 00:34:11,214
The rocks and the wind, the
hills, they're bearing down on me.
225
00:34:11,686 --> 00:34:13,346
I can feel every step.
226
00:34:13,502 --> 00:34:15,222
I feel every pebble.
227
00:34:15,535 --> 00:34:18,135
I feel every bump in the road.
228
00:34:18,892 --> 00:34:20,742
It's grueling at this point.
229
00:34:21,242 --> 00:34:25,922
And the sad news is I still have
two and a half more laps to go.
230
00:34:26,185 --> 00:34:28,016
Have I mentioned I hate running?
231
00:34:33,415 --> 00:34:38,325
Almost all the runners have
overcome misfortune or illness.
232
00:34:38,449 --> 00:34:42,870
For Dave, too, this is the crowning
achievement of a difficult time.
233
00:34:43,195 --> 00:34:44,131
Good job, Dave!
234
00:34:44,995 --> 00:34:45,770
Good job, Dave!
235
00:34:45,890 --> 00:34:46,825
Come on, Dave!
236
00:34:47,908 --> 00:34:49,703
There it is!
Done deal!
237
00:34:51,282 --> 00:34:51,708
Yeah!
238
00:34:51,733 --> 00:34:53,334
Come on, Dave!
239
00:34:53,441 --> 00:34:54,877
Woo-hoo!
240
00:34:55,409 --> 00:34:56,585
Come and get it, buddy.
241
00:34:56,627 --> 00:34:57,543
You shouldn't be short.
242
00:34:57,576 --> 00:34:59,126
Now I'm done.
243
00:35:00,535 --> 00:35:01,535
Good job.
244
00:35:22,055 --> 00:35:27,095
I was 285 pounds, and I was a
two-pack-a-day smoker in 2012.
245
00:35:28,049 --> 00:35:30,115
And today, here I am.
246
00:35:30,232 --> 00:35:31,782
I've got to get a towel.
247
00:35:32,389 --> 00:35:37,109
Seven continents, seven marathons,
six days, 23 hours, 56 minutes.
248
00:35:38,594 --> 00:35:41,163
And a swim off of Antarctica.
249
00:35:42,676 --> 00:35:44,880
You can do anything
you put your mind to.
250
00:35:45,059 --> 00:35:46,609
Anything.
251
00:35:56,735 --> 00:35:57,591
Yeah!
252
00:35:57,616 --> 00:35:58,692
Go ahead!
253
00:35:58,717 --> 00:35:59,804
Go ahead!
254
00:36:05,042 --> 00:36:10,152
This shows you what you got inside when
everything falls apart, when the wheels
255
00:36:10,177 --> 00:36:14,152
fall off the vehicle, how you get the
vehicle to keep moving, it's in your heart.
256
00:36:14,517 --> 00:36:17,085
This just shows you what
your heart is made of.
257
00:36:17,110 --> 00:36:22,586
I did, I did, I
did, I did, I did it.
258
00:36:22,668 --> 00:36:25,758
It was hard, but
I made it happen.
259
00:36:26,022 --> 00:36:27,572
Yes!
260
00:36:29,322 --> 00:36:30,872
Winter is approaching.
261
00:36:31,568 --> 00:36:34,523
In Billingshausen, the
rusty buildings must be
262
00:36:34,548 --> 00:36:38,344
repaired before meter-high
snow buries everything.
263
00:36:40,287 --> 00:36:44,229
Yet, Russia doesn't provide
much money for repairs.
264
00:36:44,332 --> 00:36:48,972
Igor Tikhonov, the head
mechanic, sometimes despairs.
265
00:37:09,694 --> 00:37:12,256
Corrugated metal
and a couple of wires.
266
00:37:12,596 --> 00:37:17,165
The Russian workmen are
masters at patching things together.
267
00:37:17,679 --> 00:37:22,919
And when the ladder isn't long enough,
an excavator's shovel extends their reach.
268
00:37:25,749 --> 00:37:30,099
The Russian team has been stationed
in the Antarctic for nearly a year.
269
00:37:30,176 --> 00:37:34,606
A year without their families,
a supermarket or vacation.
270
00:37:36,525 --> 00:37:38,716
They're never alone
when they want to be.
271
00:37:38,836 --> 00:37:40,852
Or in company when they need it.
272
00:37:41,189 --> 00:37:43,459
You have to be cut out for this.
273
00:37:50,862 --> 00:37:56,912
Before he gets Antarctic cabin fever,
Igor heads for the Uruguayan station.
274
00:37:57,902 --> 00:37:59,750
They have a drum set there.
275
00:37:59,825 --> 00:38:02,265
Just the thing to let off steam.
276
00:38:22,728 --> 00:38:26,584
It's only five kilometers to
the Uruguayan drum set.
277
00:38:26,656 --> 00:38:29,366
But it's quite an undertaking.
278
00:38:34,175 --> 00:38:36,049
The mud is hellish.
279
00:38:36,203 --> 00:38:40,718
Once you get stuck in it,
you can't get out without help.
280
00:39:05,195 --> 00:39:06,756
Igor is in luck.
281
00:39:06,872 --> 00:39:11,112
A snowcat from the Uruguayan
station heard his radio call for help.
282
00:39:23,517 --> 00:39:26,447
The helpers also
have to watch out.
283
00:39:26,595 --> 00:39:30,765
Many have lost their boots
irretrievably in the morass.
284
00:39:31,889 --> 00:39:36,699
Everyone is aware that you
cannot survive alone out here.
285
00:39:37,316 --> 00:39:38,372
Tequila!
286
00:39:38,582 --> 00:39:40,132
No, vodka!
287
00:40:04,595 --> 00:40:07,965
Together, they head on to
the Uruguayan research station.
288
00:40:09,176 --> 00:40:13,952
Despite the challenges, this is
Igor's fourth time in the Antarctic Circle.
289
00:40:14,042 --> 00:40:18,632
Here, they say he's been
bitten badly by the Antarctic bug.
290
00:40:48,709 --> 00:40:53,889
Igor shares his passion for heavy music
with Commander Gustavo Dalmonte.
291
00:40:53,914 --> 00:40:56,174
It's time for a
few drum lessons.
292
00:40:56,772 --> 00:41:00,202
Precious moments of
diversion from the daily routine.
293
00:41:00,316 --> 00:41:02,542
Take this, all this, all this.
294
00:41:03,132 --> 00:41:04,722
The center.
295
00:42:05,886 --> 00:42:09,536
It's nearly time for the
German researchers to depart.
296
00:42:10,705 --> 00:42:17,396
This means all samples to be sent to the
laboratory in Jena must be carefully packed.
297
00:42:17,778 --> 00:42:22,188
Daniel Provaznik has collected
pellets from the skuas' nests.
298
00:42:23,339 --> 00:42:28,749
They consist of all the indigestible
things the birds swallow and regurgitate.
299
00:42:30,727 --> 00:42:36,882
Daniel mostly finds feathers of penguins
and tern, fish, and bits of krill in them,
300
00:42:37,420 --> 00:42:42,215
but manufactured trash is appearing
in the pellets more frequently.
301
00:43:38,935 --> 00:43:43,665
In March, the final supply
flights land at the Chilean airport.
302
00:43:44,265 --> 00:43:48,979
They bring urgently needed supplies for
the long winter months, when contact with
303
00:43:49,004 --> 00:43:51,633
the outside world will
be nearly impossible.
304
00:43:59,192 --> 00:44:03,315
Commander Sergio Cubillos
personally oversees the unloading.
305
00:44:03,378 --> 00:44:07,908
The survival of his troops
depends on his logistical planning.
306
00:44:49,778 --> 00:44:54,488
All the worse, that this flight contains
less than half the planned provisions.
307
00:45:07,121 --> 00:45:11,631
Priest Palady also prepares for
the long period of winter isolation.
308
00:45:13,222 --> 00:45:19,072
Soon, temperatures will fall to 60 degrees
below zero, and a walk through the hills
309
00:45:19,129 --> 00:45:20,819
will no longer be possible.
310
00:46:20,682 --> 00:46:23,754
The German researchers
and most of the military
311
00:46:23,910 --> 00:46:27,528
take the last plane
back to their homelands.
312
00:46:27,929 --> 00:46:30,979
Only an emergency staff
remains in the stations.
313
00:46:32,472 --> 00:46:36,872
Then, the really
extreme season begins.
314
00:46:37,008 --> 00:46:39,838
Winter in Antarctica.
315
00:46:41,615 --> 00:46:46,125
Antarctic midwinter
nights last nearly 20 hours.
316
00:46:47,275 --> 00:46:51,485
Extreme darkness surrounds the
research stations on the Fildes Peninsula.
317
00:47:12,082 --> 00:47:15,692
With the darkness
comes the cold.
318
00:47:15,717 --> 00:47:20,107
Wind chill temperatures of
60 degrees below zero Celsius.
319
00:47:21,102 --> 00:47:25,602
To combat it, the men of the
Bellingshausen research station turn to a
320
00:47:25,627 --> 00:47:27,987
proven method from
their Russian homeland.
321
00:47:59,807 --> 00:48:04,324
Maksym Sikorsky, the cook, brought
the birch branches from Russia.
322
00:48:04,489 --> 00:48:08,399
They're meant to open They go up in
the pores and get the blood circulating.
323
00:48:27,632 --> 00:48:30,643
They go right into the snow.
324
00:48:30,779 --> 00:48:32,329
To cool off.
325
00:48:39,232 --> 00:48:42,726
This is the first time in Antarctica
for the four men in the sauna.
326
00:48:42,885 --> 00:48:47,215
Each of them had ideas about what kind of
people they'd be spending the winter with.
327
00:49:52,808 --> 00:49:57,116
Anyone who gets sick or
injured must be flown out to Chile.
328
00:49:57,435 --> 00:50:00,075
A particular
challenge in winter.
329
00:50:00,711 --> 00:50:05,363
The twin otter requires exactly five
centimeters of snow on the frozen tarmac
330
00:50:05,418 --> 00:50:06,894
for takeoff and landing.
331
00:50:07,465 --> 00:50:12,015
If there are more, the snow
prevents the aircraft from starting.
332
00:50:12,040 --> 00:50:15,305
If there are fewer, the
plane slides on the ice.
333
00:50:16,125 --> 00:50:21,535
Carlos Castro, the pilot, has discovered
technical defects on the twin otter.
334
00:50:22,339 --> 00:50:25,174
Despite difficult weather,
he must deliver the
335
00:50:25,199 --> 00:50:28,662
plane to Chile and
exchange it for another.
336
00:50:48,586 --> 00:50:53,029
For safety reasons, the twin otter is
always accompanied by a helicopter when it
337
00:50:53,054 --> 00:50:57,043
takes off, which can provide
immediate help in an emergency.
338
00:50:57,538 --> 00:51:00,828
The winter pushes Diego
Escudero to his limits.
339
00:51:22,492 --> 00:51:27,542
The helicopter only accompanies the twin
otter during the critical takeoff phase.
340
00:52:01,762 --> 00:52:05,137
On nearby Nelson
Glacier, the pilots train
341
00:52:05,163 --> 00:52:09,173
for rescue missions in
dangerous white-outs.
342
00:52:09,962 --> 00:52:12,949
They must keep the
overview, even when their
343
00:52:12,974 --> 00:52:16,877
bodies react to disorientation
with extreme stress.
344
00:52:33,218 --> 00:52:37,619
Seven Chilean officers'
families live in Villa Las Estrellas,
345
00:52:37,805 --> 00:52:41,372
the only civilian
settlement on the island.
346
00:52:42,245 --> 00:52:46,131
They import almost daily
routines to the end of the earth.
347
00:52:47,122 --> 00:52:54,442
Every morning, Sofía and Seba Castro pick
up Matías Cubillos, the commander's son.
348
00:52:55,444 --> 00:52:59,397
Twelve-year-old Sofía doesn't always
manage to bring the two little ones to
349
00:52:59,422 --> 00:53:05,089
school on time, even though it's only
one hundred and fifty meters away.
350
00:53:35,075 --> 00:53:38,545
Six children attend the
little Antarctic school.
351
00:53:39,392 --> 00:53:43,412
Five of them are taught together
in the first through third grades.
352
00:53:47,642 --> 00:53:50,592
Sofía is the only
pupil in the fifth grade.
353
00:53:51,795 --> 00:53:55,225
Seba and Matías
don't really belong here.
354
00:53:55,445 --> 00:53:59,251
Since there's no kindergarten,
their teacher, Andrea Carrasco,
355
00:53:59,362 --> 00:54:01,752
started them in
school a year early.
356
00:54:04,935 --> 00:54:06,485
Sebastián?
357
00:55:08,040 --> 00:55:10,365
The children must
learn to get along.
358
00:55:10,534 --> 00:55:12,972
Whether they like
each other or not,
359
00:55:13,227 --> 00:55:17,306
they'll be each other's only
playmates for two years.
360
00:55:28,689 --> 00:55:33,858
As a fifth grader, Sofia gets
serious lessons from Rojas Rivera.
361
00:56:56,182 --> 00:57:00,912
But even now, research stations
are manned by the military.
362
00:57:03,462 --> 00:57:07,233
The ice reaches out nearly
800 meters into the bay.
363
00:57:07,529 --> 00:57:10,439
Penguins have long since
left King George Island.
364
00:57:11,322 --> 00:57:17,992
Only leopard seals, and crab-eater seals,
and snowy sheathbills still hold out here.
365
00:57:48,328 --> 00:57:51,375
Sergio Copillos is the
commander of the Chilean airbase,
366
00:57:51,630 --> 00:57:55,372
he has been stationed in
Antarctica for nearly a year.
367
00:57:56,095 --> 00:58:00,325
He is on his way to the neighboring
Russian station, Berlingshausen.
368
00:58:22,348 --> 00:58:25,084
Commander Igor
Idrisov has a problem.
369
00:58:25,109 --> 00:58:28,579
His 14 men are
often left high and dry.
370
00:58:28,788 --> 00:58:35,079
There's an acute shortage of water, which
both stations pump from a frozen lake.
371
00:58:35,582 --> 00:58:38,862
Of course, they could melt
snow, but that costs energy.
372
00:58:38,962 --> 00:58:40,342
And takes a lot of work.
373
00:58:40,442 --> 00:58:43,072
So it's only viable
in emergencies.
374
00:58:46,122 --> 00:58:50,862
The commanders want to find out how high
the water level under the lake's ice cover
375
00:58:50,887 --> 00:58:54,476
must be, in order to provide
enough for everybody.
376
00:58:58,368 --> 00:58:59,918
Okay.
377
01:00:40,752 --> 01:00:46,222
In the winter, only Vasily Mesera's
bulldozer is suited for heavy loads.
378
01:00:59,766 --> 01:01:04,436
The two men from Uruguay have spent
a cold night in their stranded snow cat.
379
01:01:06,428 --> 01:01:09,908
Manny Rios just wants
to get back to the station.
380
01:01:10,262 --> 01:01:14,022
He gave up trying to repair the
vehicle on site a long time ago.
381
01:01:36,192 --> 01:01:41,138
It's three kilometers to the Uruguayan
station, but with a heavy bulldozer,
382
01:01:41,163 --> 01:01:43,443
the maneuver
takes several hours.
383
01:01:55,992 --> 01:01:59,715
The entrance to the garage
is much lower than the
384
01:01:59,937 --> 01:02:03,823
snow cover, Vasily weighs
the risks of digging around.
385
01:02:28,772 --> 01:02:33,268
Handling heavy machinery is the
greatest accident risk in the Antarctic,
386
01:02:33,878 --> 01:02:37,368
and evacuation is often
impossible for weeks.
387
01:02:48,788 --> 01:02:54,898
In their daily interactions, the nations in
Antarctica work together unconditionally.
388
01:03:06,005 --> 01:03:09,203
Bellinghausen, the Russian
research station, was
389
01:03:09,228 --> 01:03:13,395
founded in 1968 and is
the oldest on the island.
390
01:03:14,765 --> 01:03:19,541
Few resources for repairs have
reached the Antarctic outpost from Russia.
391
01:03:19,679 --> 01:03:22,729
The station is rusting.
392
01:03:38,965 --> 01:03:46,045
The two youngest station members are
Vadim, an oceanographer, and Maxim, a cook.
393
01:03:50,165 --> 01:03:54,463
Maxim is 28 and comes from an
industrial city in northwest Russia.
394
01:03:54,602 --> 01:03:57,821
He never would have believed
he'd make it to Antarctica.
395
01:04:45,808 --> 01:04:49,118
Fourteen people stay through
the winter in Bellinghausen.
396
01:04:50,799 --> 01:04:56,780
Until the scientists return in summer, they
make sure the station doesn't fall apart.
397
01:05:05,542 --> 01:05:09,078
Food comes to
Antarctica once a year.
398
01:05:09,229 --> 01:05:10,265
In April.
399
01:05:10,476 --> 01:05:12,026
By ship.
400
01:05:13,229 --> 01:05:17,979
One of Maxim's tasks as a cook is to
watch over the storage of provisions.
401
01:05:18,318 --> 01:05:23,338
He builds on the wealth of experience
of station physician Vladimir Anferteev,
402
01:05:23,886 --> 01:05:28,386
who has completed 62
Russian Antarctic expeditions.
403
01:05:29,575 --> 01:05:31,785
Especially on the topic of eggs.
404
01:05:32,069 --> 01:05:35,059
Normally, they would
spoil in about two months.
405
01:06:05,822 --> 01:06:08,532
An Antarctic household tip.
406
01:06:08,649 --> 01:06:12,753
As long as an egg is
moved regularly, it won't spoil.
407
01:06:13,083 --> 01:06:18,032
Every three days, it's
time to turn the eggs.
408
01:06:18,955 --> 01:06:24,665
The shelf life of the remaining 1,200
eggs can thus be extended by up to a year.
409
01:06:32,683 --> 01:06:34,724
The gentle snowfall
is deceiving.
410
01:06:35,202 --> 01:06:37,632
A storm warning has been issued.
411
01:06:39,375 --> 01:06:45,506
In Villa Las Estrellas, Sara Castro
immediately picks up her children from school.
412
01:06:46,328 --> 01:06:48,390
In this inhospitable region,
413
01:06:48,472 --> 01:06:52,760
the families have learned to
respect the forces of nature.
414
01:06:54,675 --> 01:06:58,911
Far from civilization, Sara
has found temporary happiness.
415
01:06:58,936 --> 01:07:02,992
She has already been stationed here
with her husband and children for a year.
416
01:07:03,017 --> 01:07:05,067
She can stay one more.
417
01:07:23,715 --> 01:07:27,622
No one knows what effect their
stay will have on the children.
418
01:07:27,842 --> 01:07:31,214
A lack of vitamin D can
make bones and teeth
419
01:07:31,239 --> 01:07:35,397
soft and contribute to
cancer and depression.
420
01:07:37,195 --> 01:07:43,007
Imported bacteria and viruses can
scarcely spread in the extreme cold.
421
01:07:43,649 --> 01:07:47,684
As a result, the body's
immune system weakens.
422
01:07:47,762 --> 01:07:50,473
But what will happen when
the children return to Chile?
423
01:07:54,382 --> 01:08:01,112
On the other hand, family life in
this isolation is particularly intense.
424
01:08:36,121 --> 01:08:40,840
The storm brings a wind-chilled
temperature of 56 degrees below zero
425
01:08:41,183 --> 01:08:45,132
and wind speeds of up to
196 kilometers per hour.
426
01:09:09,719 --> 01:09:14,232
In Billingshausen, too, the great
challenge is to pass the time without
427
01:09:14,257 --> 01:09:19,406
losing your good spirits
for days or weeks on end.
428
01:09:46,142 --> 01:09:50,034
One of them always keeps
watch in 12-hour shifts.
429
01:09:50,138 --> 01:09:52,288
Today, it's Vasily's turn.
430
01:10:20,465 --> 01:10:23,809
Every couple of hours,
Vasily patrols the station.
431
01:10:24,049 --> 01:10:26,989
He's only been here two
winters in the Antarctic.
432
01:10:28,546 --> 01:10:32,136
Last year, he stayed home with
his wife, children and grandchildren.
433
01:10:33,650 --> 01:10:36,263
Despite the 15,000
kilometer distance,
434
01:10:36,437 --> 01:10:40,230
his thoughts were always with
his South Pole machines.
435
01:10:41,670 --> 01:10:43,981
So far, they're running
without any problems.
436
01:10:44,252 --> 01:10:47,422
Vasily notes the pressure and
the water and oil temperature.
437
01:13:40,898 --> 01:13:43,673
Carlos Castro came to
the end of the earth with his
438
01:13:43,698 --> 01:13:47,027
wife and children, so they
could become a family again.
439
01:13:48,038 --> 01:13:51,208
During his routines as a
pilot, he rarely saw them.
440
01:13:53,046 --> 01:13:57,867
Deceleration, time and
togetherness are their goals.
441
01:13:57,938 --> 01:14:00,988
And every little
adventure is a gift.
442
01:14:04,459 --> 01:14:07,571
Another motivation drives
Commander Sergio Cubillos
443
01:14:07,596 --> 01:14:11,473
to hold down the fort on the
most remote post in Chile.
444
01:14:12,172 --> 01:14:15,512
He often sits late at night at
his desk in the headquarters.
445
01:14:15,906 --> 01:14:19,835
He has hardly any
time for his family.
446
01:14:51,695 --> 01:14:55,095
There aren't many carefree
moments for Marcela either.
447
01:15:46,402 --> 01:15:51,172
Whenever it gets a couple
degrees warmer, fog rolls in.
448
01:15:51,715 --> 01:15:53,956
Nevertheless, the Russians
want to get to the
449
01:15:53,981 --> 01:15:57,760
Drake Passage on the west
side of King George Island.
450
01:16:23,572 --> 01:16:26,481
Commander Igor Idrisov
drives ahead on the
451
01:16:26,506 --> 01:16:30,723
snowmobile to scope out
a safe path for the snowcat.
452
01:16:30,959 --> 01:16:33,369
No easy task in the fog.
453
01:17:35,502 --> 01:17:40,112
A review of the situation
takes place in the Artiga station.
454
01:17:40,385 --> 01:17:43,614
The Russians try to agree on
a common radio channel with
455
01:17:43,639 --> 01:17:48,089
the Uruguayan military men
Manny Rios and Gustavo Dalmonte.
456
01:17:48,176 --> 01:17:50,282
But even this presents problems.
457
01:17:50,502 --> 01:17:52,995
Different languages
and meagre English will
458
01:17:53,020 --> 01:17:56,388
make radio communication
even more difficult.
459
01:18:11,116 --> 01:18:16,051
More than 50 nations have signed a
contract to use the only uninhabited
460
01:18:16,076 --> 01:18:19,525
continent on Earth only
for scientific purposes.
461
01:18:20,815 --> 01:18:27,132
There is a great potential for conflict,
since gigantic deposits of raw materials
462
01:18:27,235 --> 01:18:33,905
and almost 80% of the Earth's
fresh water supply are in Antarctica.
463
01:18:36,988 --> 01:18:42,522
What's more, according to climate change
prognoses, Antarctica could be one of the
464
01:18:42,547 --> 01:18:45,936
last inhabitable places
for humans in the future.
465
01:18:47,522 --> 01:18:51,892
The Antarctic Treaty was
concluded for an indefinite period.
466
01:18:52,314 --> 01:18:55,474
Yet the tendency of some
countries to noticeably
467
01:18:55,499 --> 01:18:59,919
increase their presence in
Antarctica cannot be ignored.
468
01:19:05,732 --> 01:19:09,516
For years, nobody has checked
on the Pre-Rhoda shelter.
469
01:19:09,612 --> 01:19:11,642
Its condition is questionable.
470
01:19:12,181 --> 01:19:18,546
A shelter that isn't one can cost lives in
Antarctica, where sudden changes in the
471
01:19:18,606 --> 01:19:22,915
weather make every wilderness
expedition an unpredictable risk.
472
01:20:22,976 --> 01:20:28,250
For years, the expedition participants
have hoped for money from Russia so they
473
01:20:28,275 --> 01:20:31,004
can modernize the
installations on the island.
474
01:20:31,125 --> 01:20:33,255
They haven't seen any yet.
475
01:20:33,693 --> 01:20:37,803
Igor conjures up an effective household
remedy for snow boundness.
476
01:21:03,795 --> 01:21:07,002
At least, so long as
everybody plays by the rules,
477
01:21:07,027 --> 01:21:10,034
and nobody opens the race
for the raw materials.
478
01:21:10,132 --> 01:21:15,182
To keep the peace, the rule is
that they never discuss politics.
479
01:21:28,365 --> 01:21:33,976
South Korea's research station, King
Sejong, is just a few kilometers away.
480
01:21:34,905 --> 01:21:38,565
But the only way to get there is
across the sea, which has been
481
01:21:38,590 --> 01:21:40,780
iced over for months.
482
01:21:41,485 --> 01:21:44,943
Despite their isolation,
stubborn guests have
483
01:21:44,968 --> 01:21:48,090
sneaked in during the
previous summer season.
484
01:21:48,309 --> 01:21:53,569
Biologist Chung Young Kim uses
them for his latest research project.
485
01:21:57,229 --> 01:22:02,119
He picks up a species of
mosquito from a special insect trap.
486
01:22:40,952 --> 01:22:43,933
The mosquitoes are deep
frozen and sent to research
487
01:22:44,061 --> 01:22:47,889
laboratories in South Korea
during the next summer season.
488
01:22:49,065 --> 01:22:53,035
They're probably leaving Antarctica
the same way they got here.
489
01:23:14,605 --> 01:23:20,037
Chung Young Kim is mostly interested in
the introduced mosquitoes because he's
490
01:23:20,062 --> 01:23:23,911
concerned about the other
living creatures entrusted to him.
491
01:23:24,465 --> 01:23:27,572
He's a botanist in the
station's greenhouse.
492
01:24:06,606 --> 01:24:11,976
Song Yong Pak, a cook, adds dried
mushrooms from Korea to transform the
493
01:24:12,001 --> 01:24:19,143
Antarctic vegetables into bibimbap, the
favorite dish of his 17-person winter team.
494
01:24:19,435 --> 01:24:22,390
And not only because it's tasty.
495
01:25:08,636 --> 01:25:11,086
Winter's end is drawing near.
496
01:25:11,694 --> 01:25:15,499
In Billingshausen, the first
penguin has been sighted.
497
01:25:20,605 --> 01:25:25,017
Their inflatable boat freshly patched,
the Russians venture out to sea on their
498
01:25:25,042 --> 01:25:26,747
first tour of the season.
499
01:25:28,519 --> 01:25:31,859
They're headed for Ardley,
the island of penguins, to check
500
01:25:31,900 --> 01:25:35,109
whether the birds have
returned after the long winter.
501
01:25:36,258 --> 01:25:40,008
Vladimir, the skipper, will be
at the rudder for the first time.
502
01:25:45,076 --> 01:25:47,430
But then, the wind changes.
503
01:25:47,582 --> 01:25:49,872
Ice presses around the boat.
504
01:25:52,029 --> 01:25:54,516
Vadim, the oceanographer,
and Vladimir, the
505
01:25:54,541 --> 01:25:58,038
skipper, look for a path
through the dangerous chunks.
506
01:26:02,939 --> 01:26:05,535
Maxim has been allowed
to come along today.
507
01:26:05,612 --> 01:26:08,597
Though, as the cook,
he's irreplaceable.
508
01:26:08,735 --> 01:26:12,115
He has never seen a
penguin in his whole life.
509
01:26:36,456 --> 01:26:41,866
Ardley Island is the summer breeding
ground for thousands of gen 2 penguins.
510
01:26:42,362 --> 01:26:44,798
They spend the
winter on the open sea.
511
01:26:44,823 --> 01:26:47,313
For years, researchers
have tried to determine
512
01:26:47,338 --> 01:26:50,013
exactly when they return
to their breeding grounds.
513
01:27:40,662 --> 01:27:45,152
On King George Island,
this means the winter is over.
514
01:28:14,195 --> 01:28:19,374
But it will take another six months before
the next Russian supply ship takes the men
515
01:28:19,399 --> 01:28:22,888
from Berlingshausen
home to their families.
46721
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